Production process of high-proportion wool blended woven fabric

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to a production process of a high-proportion wool blended woven fabric. According to the invention, the problems of poor spinnability, non-uniform strength, non-uniform dyeing and dimensional stability which are easy to occur in the production of the wool fabric are solved mainly by selecting wool and cotton fibers and superposing the wool and cotton fibers through a double-bleaching process, and the high-proportion 30% wool fabric is realized.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of textile engineering, and particularly relates to a production process of a high-proportion wool blended woven fabric, in particular to a preparation method of a blended fabric with a wool content of 30%. BACKGROUND

[0002] Wool is a natural protein fiber, which is favored for its soft hand feeling, excellent warmth retention and high moisture absorption. However, pure wool products have problems such as pilling, poor dimensional stability, insufficient strength, wrinkle resistance and shape retention, pilling and high production cost. Blending with other fibers can make up for these defects and give the fabric new functional properties.

[0003] At present, the wool proportion in the existing woven fabric wool blended products on the market is often low (usually less than 20%), which is difficult to fully reflect the excellent properties of wool, or the proportion is high (more than 50%), which faces technical problems such as poor spinnability, uneven dyeing, and low production efficiency. Especially at the proportion of 30%, how to balance the properties of wool and other fibers, realize large-scale stable production, and at the same time ensure the high quality of the fabric, has been a technical difficulty in the industry.

[0004] In the prior art, CN106521755A discloses a production process of high-strength worsted wool fabric, but mainly focuses on the mixing of wool and bamboo charcoal polyester and polylactic acid fiber, and the wool proportion is not clear. CN116791250A discloses a semi-worsted production process of wool cashmere bio-based polyamide blended yarn, but focuses on the semi-worsted system and its pretreatment process. These processes have not effectively solved the key technical problems in the production of 30% wool blended fabric. SUMMARY

[0005] (I) Invention purpose

[0006] The purpose of the present application is to provide a production process of high-proportion wool (30%) blended fabric, to solve the technical problems of poor spinnability, uneven strength, dyeing difference and dimensional instability in the production of high-proportion wool blended fabric in the prior art, and to produce high-grade blended fabric which not only retains the excellent properties of wool but also has multiple functional properties.

[0007] (II) Technical solution

[0008] The present application is realized by the following technical solution:

[0009] A production process of high-proportion wool blended woven fabric, characterized in that the content of wool fiber in the blended fabric is 10%-30%, and the production process comprises the following steps in sequence:

[0010] (1) Raw material selection: high-quality shrink-resistant merino wool fibers with fineness≦18.5 μm and length 30-40 mm are selected, and cotton is bleached fiber. It has good softness and spinnability;

[0011] (2) Spinning process: including combing and spinning process; the spinning process adopts compact spinning technology;

[0012] (3) Weaving process: multi-arm weaving is adopted;

[0013] (4) Dyeing and finishing process: double bleaching process is used in bleaching and dyeing, including pretreatment→adding caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide→adding caustic soda whitening agent→washing→adding acid enzyme softener;

[0014] (5) Post-finishing process: singeing desizing→liquid ammonia→dip dyeing→drying→non-ironing→curing→washing→tentering→pre-shrinking.

[0015] Compact spinning technology is adopted to reduce yarn hairiness, improve yarn strength and improve yarn evenness and uniformity. The material yarn is cotton and wool blended yarn, and the wool content is 10%~30%; the process flow of the cotton and wool blended yarn is as follows:

[0016] Cotton fiber treatment: cleaning→carding→pre-drawing→sliver lap drawing→combing sliver→breaking→cotton pretreatment→bleaching→drying→packing;

[0017] Wool treatment: mercerized wool sliver is drawn;

[0018] The treated cotton and mercerized wool fibers are mixed→carding→first drawing→second drawing→roving→spinning→winding.

[0019] Main process flow parameters

[0020] Cleaning: machine type FA002D, adopting two passes of compact cotton sliver and wool scattered hair disc mixing, beater speed 750 r / min, weight: 380 g / m

[0021] Carding: Qingdao FA231, doffer speed 15 r / min, taker-in speed 650~750 r / min, cylinder speed 300~400 r / min, weight: 20 g / 5 m

[0022] First drawing: machine type: Shenyang FA306A, 6 draws, total draft 6.1, back draft 1.8, weight: 20 g / 5 m

[0023] Second drawing: machine type: Rieter RSB-D 24C, 6 draws, total draft 6.3, back draft 1.3, weight: 19 g / 5 m

[0024] Roving: Machine type: Tianjin TJFA458, twist coefficient 90, fixed weight 5.5g / 10m

[0025] Fine yarn: Model: Jingwei FA506 compact spinning machine, twist coefficient 340~390, back draw 1.5, yarn count 30~50.

[0026] Winding machine: Murata NO.21C, machine speed 1000~1300m / min, USTER photoelectric yarn clearer.

[0027] Weaving process:

[0028] The machine is an air-jet multi-arm loom. Traditional looms are mostly plain or twill weaves, resulting in limited product styles and added value. To produce complex weaves, large jacquard weaves are usually required, leading to high costs. Multi-arm weaving breaks through the limitations of simple patterns, achieving complex, three-dimensional fabric structures within limited heald frames, enhancing both aesthetics and functionality.

[0029] Weaving parameters: Taking 2 / 2 plain weave as an example

[0030] Temperature: 22-26℃

[0031] Humidity: 70%-75%

[0032] Vehicle speed: 620-680 RPM

[0033] Efficiency: 88%-93%

[0034] Tension: 3000-3200N

[0035] Rear beam: 2.5 meters high, 4 meters deep

[0036] Auxiliary injection pressure: 0.35 MPa

[0037] Weft insertion parameters: Normal settings

[0038] The advantages are high speed and efficiency, fewer defects, avoidance of friction and scratches between the rapier and warp yarns, reduction of debris and abrasion marks, lower weaving defects, and a smooth fabric surface. It utilizes a small opening and high tension combined with high-density reed teeth, resulting in even warp yarn arrangement and a smooth, delicate fabric surface. Air jets can produce wider fabrics than rapier looms. However, it places stringent requirements on the yarn, demanding high abrasion resistance and yarn strength. Air jets can easily disperse the yarn; if the raw yarn has a lot of fuzz and a loose structure, it can lead to a high weft stop rate and a decline in fabric quality.

[0039] Dyeing and finishing processes:

[0040] Perform Huntsman double drift:

[0041] The first step of the process involves adding SA 2g / L and ONE 1g / L at room temperature, and incubating at 60℃ for 20 minutes.

[0042] In the second step, ONE 1g / L is added at room temperature, and the temperature is increased to 60℃ at 1℃ / min. Then, caustic soda 4g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L are added, with a time interval of 5min between the addition of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide. The temperature is increased to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and held for 30min.

[0043] In the third step, add ONE 2g / L to the auxiliary agent at room temperature, heat to 60℃ at 1℃ / min, add caustic soda 3g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L with a time interval of 5min between adding caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide, heat to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and keep warm for 30min, then wash with hot water at 80℃×10min, and add acid enzyme at 52.5℃×20min.

[0044] In the finishing process:

[0045] Singeing and desizing: machine speed 100m / min, flame intensity 8, water washing temperature 90-95℃

[0046] Liquid ammonia: Vehicle speed 40-50m / min;

[0047] Rolling speed: 55 m / min, stacking time: 4-6 hours;

[0048] Dyeing speed: 35-40 m / min;

[0049] Drying speed: 70 m / min, temperature 120℃

[0050] No-ironing: Speed ​​m / min, pressure 1.6, drying oven temperature 100~110℃, SF-P: 15g / l, R-PU: 20g / l, WA-M: 1g / l. Baking: Speed ​​50~60m / min, drying oven temperature 140~150℃.

[0051] Water washing: water temperature 40~50℃, machine speed m / min, acid tank pH 3.

[0052] Tensile strength: Pressure 30, machine speed 80m / min, drying oven temperature 130℃, 9106: 20g / l

[0053] Pre-shrinkage: at a speed of 60 m / min, the shrinkage rate is 2% according to GB standards for hanging dry loads.

[0054] Beneficial effects:

[0055] 1. This woven fabric emphasizes innovation in production technology and leverages the advantages of the fabric to achieve a balance between warmth, breathability, moisture absorption, and a soft touch. Specific performance and data: The fabric combines the warmth of wool (like an invisible barrier) with the breathability and moisture-wicking properties of cotton. Its moisture absorption rate is 15% faster than pure cotton, and its breathability is 20% higher than pure wool fabric. It feels soft against the skin, avoiding the itching sensation that pure wool may cause.

[0056] 2. It possesses excellent resilience, wrinkle resistance, and shape retention, making it easy to care for. Specific performance and data: Through optimized post-processing, a balance between crispness and softness is achieved. The garment retains its crispness after washing and is not easily loosened or deformed. After a home machine wash (30℃), the shrinkage rate can be controlled within -2.00 to 2.00, exceeding national standards.

[0057] 3. Specific functions such as down-proofing and high color fastness can be achieved through process design. Specific performance and data: By controlling the spinning process, weaving density, and machine type, the finished product can achieve down-proofing. When using yarn-dyed technology, the yarn's color fastness (wash resistance) can reach level 4-5. Detailed Implementation

[0058] The present invention will be further described in detail below through embodiments, but the implementation of the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0059] Example 1

[0060] Fabric specifications: C / W CPT40XC / W CPT40×140×100, weave 2 / 2, finishing method: liquid ammonia finishing + ordinary wrinkle-free finishing + long-lasting white finishing, cotton / wool blend ratio is 70 / 30.

[0061] 1. Raw material preparation: Wool fiber (30%): 30mm long high-quality Merino shrink-resistant wool fiber. Bleached cotton (70%): Bleached Pima cotton.

[0062] 2. Spinning: Opening → Carding → Pre-drawing → Sliver lap drawing → Combed sliver → Breaking → Cotton pretreatment → Bleaching → Spin-drying → Drying → Packing → Blending pre-treated cotton fibers with mercerized wool fibers → Carding → First drawing → Second drawing → Roving → Spinning → Winding.

[0063] Among them, the cotton cleaning process: Model: FA002D, using a two-pass circular blending of combed cotton slivers and loose wool fibers, beater speed 750r / min, fixed weight: 380g / m

[0064] Carding machine: Qingdao FA231, doffer speed 15r / min, licker-in speed 650~750r / min, cylinder speed 300r / min, basis weight: 20g / 5m

[0065] First drawing pass: Model: Shenyang FA306A, 6-row, total draw 6.1, rear draw 1.8, fixed weight 20g / 5m

[0066] Second draw: Model: Rieter RSB-D 24C, 6 draws, total draft 6.3, post draft 1.3, fixed weight 19g / 5m

[0067] Roving: Machine type: Tianjin TJFA458, twist coefficient 90, fixed weight 5.5g / 10m

[0068] Fine yarn: Model: Jingwei FA506 compact spinning machine, twist coefficient 340, back draw 1.5, yarn count 30.

[0069] Winding machine: Murata NO.21C, machine speed 1000m / min, USTER photoelectric yarn clearer.

[0070] 3. Weaving: Uses imported Japanese Toyota air-jet looms with an operating efficiency of 78% and a rotation speed of 652 rpm.

[0071] 4. Dyeing and Finishing: Huntsman double bleaching is performed. In the first step, SA 2g / L and ONE 1g / L are added at room temperature and the temperature is maintained at 60℃ for 20min. In the second step, ONE 1g / L is added at room temperature, and the temperature is increased to 60℃ at 1℃ / min. Then, caustic soda 4g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L are added, with a 5min interval between the addition of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide. The temperature is increased to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and held for 30min. In the third step, ONE 2g / L is added at room temperature, and the temperature is increased to 60℃ at 1℃ / min. Then, caustic soda 3g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L are added, with a 5min interval between the addition of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide. The temperature is increased to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and held for 30min. After that, hot water washing is performed at 80℃ for 10min, followed by the addition of acid enzymes at 52.5℃ for 20min.

[0072] 5. Finishing process: singeing and desizing → liquid ammonia → padding → roll dyeing → drying → wrinkle-free → baking → washing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

[0073] (1) Singeing and desizing: machine speed 100m / min, flame intensity 8, water washing temperature 95℃.

[0074] (2) Liquid ammonia: vehicle speed 40m / min

[0075] (3) Rolling: 55 m / min, stacking time 6 hours

[0076] (4) Dyeing speed: 40 m / min

[0077] (5) Drying: 70 m / min, temperature 120℃

[0078] (6) No-ironing: machine speed m / min, pressure 1.6, drying room temperature 110℃, SF-P: 15g / l, R-PU: 20g / l, WA-M: 1g / l. Baking: machine speed 60m / min, drying room temperature 150℃.

[0079] (7) Water washing: water washing temperature 50℃, machine speed m / min, acid tank pH value 3

[0080] (8) Tensioning: Pressure 30, machine speed 80m / min, drying oven temperature 130℃, 9106:20g / l

[0081] (9) Pre-shrinkage: Vehicle speed 60m / min, shrinkage rate standard GB 2%

[0082] Example 2

[0083] Fabric specifications: C / W CPT40XCPT80 / 2×140×100, weave 1 / 3, finishing method: liquid ammonia finishing + ordinary wrinkle-free + long-lasting whitening, cotton / wool blend ratio is 70 / 30.

[0084] 1. Raw material preparation: Wool fiber (30%): 40mm long high-quality Merino shrink-resistant wool fiber. Bleached cotton (70%): Bleached Pima cotton.

[0085] 2. Spinning: Opening → Carding → Pre-drawing → Sliver lap drawing → Combed sliver → Breaking → Cotton pretreatment → Bleaching → Spin-drying → Drying → Packing → Blending pre-treated cotton fibers with mercerized wool fibers → Carding → First drawing → Second drawing → Roving → Spinning → Winding.

[0086] Among them, the cotton cleaning process: Model: FA002D, using a two-pass circular blending of combed cotton slivers and loose wool fibers, beater speed 750r / min, fixed weight: 380g / m

[0087] Carding machine: Qingdao FA231, doffer speed 15r / min, licker-in speed 750r / min, cylinder speed 400r / min, basis weight: 20g / 5m

[0088] First drawing pass: Model: Shenyang FA306A, 6-row, total draw 6.1, rear draw 1.8, fixed weight 20g / 5m

[0089] Second draw: Model: Rieter RSB-D 24C, 6 draws, total draft 6.3, post draft 1.3, fixed weight 19g / 5m

[0090] Roving: Machine type: Tianjin TJFA458, twist coefficient 90, fixed weight 5.5g / 10m

[0091] Fine yarn: Model: Jingwei FA506 compact spinning machine, twist coefficient 390, back draw 1.5, yarn count 50.

[0092] Winding machine: Murata NO.21C, machine speed 1300m / min, USTER photoelectric yarn clearer.

[0093] 3. Weaving: Uses imported Japanese Toyota air-jet looms with an operating efficiency of 78% and a rotation speed of 652 rpm.

[0094] 4. Dyeing and Finishing: Huntsman double bleaching is performed. In the first step, SA 2g / L and ONE 1g / L are added at room temperature and the temperature is maintained at 60℃ for 20min. In the second step, ONE 1g / L is added at room temperature, and the temperature is increased to 60℃ at 1℃ / min. Then, caustic soda 4g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L are added, with a 5min interval between the addition of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide. The temperature is increased to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and held for 30min. In the third step, ONE 2g / L is added at room temperature, and the temperature is increased to 60℃ at 1℃ / min. Then, caustic soda 3g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L are added, with a 5min interval between the addition of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide. The temperature is increased to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and held for 30min. After that, hot water washing is performed at 80℃ for 10min, followed by the addition of acid enzymes at 52.5℃ for 20min.

[0095] 5. Finishing process: singeing and desizing → liquid ammonia → padding → roll dyeing → drying → wrinkle-free → baking → washing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

[0096] (1) Singeing and desizing: machine speed 100m / min, flame intensity 8, water washing temperature 90℃.

[0097] (2) Liquid ammonia: vehicle speed 50m / min

[0098] (3) Rolling: 55 m / min, stacking time 4 hours

[0099] (4) Dyeing speed: 35 m / min

[0100] (5) Drying: 70 m / min, temperature 120℃

[0101] (6) No-ironing: speed m / min, pressure 1.6, oven temperature 100℃, SF-P: 15g / l, R-PU: 20g / l, WA-M: 1g / l. Baking: speed 50m / min, oven temperature 140℃.

[0102] (7) Water washing: water washing temperature 40℃, machine speed m / min, acid tank pH value 3

[0103] (8) Tensioning: Pressure 30, machine speed 80m / min, drying oven temperature 130℃, 9106:20g / l

[0104] (9) Pre-shrinkage: vehicle speed 60m / min, shrinkage rate standard GB 2%.

[0105]

[0106] This invention successfully solves the key technical bottleneck in the production of high-proportion wool (30%) blended fabrics, comprehensively improves fabric quality and production efficiency, and provides a reliable technical solution for the development of high-end functional wool blended fabrics.

Claims

1. A production process for a high-proportion wool blend woven fabric, characterized in that, The blended fabric contains 30% wool fiber, and the production process includes the following steps: (1) Raw material selection: Merino high-quality anti-shrink wool fiber with a fineness of ≤18.5μm and a length of 30-40mm is selected, and the cotton is bleached fiber; (2) Spinning process: including combing and spinning processes; the spinning process adopts compact spinning technology; (3) Weaving technique: Multi-arm weaving is used; (4) Dyeing and finishing process: The bleaching and dyeing process uses a double bleaching process, including pretreatment → adding caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide → adding caustic soda whitening agent → water washing → adding acid enzyme softener; (5) Finishing process: singeing and desizing → liquid ammonia → padding → roll dyeing → drying → wrinkle-free → baking → washing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

2. The production process of a high-proportion wool blend woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The spinning process is as follows: Cotton fiber processing: opening → carding → pre-drawing → sliver lap-drawing → combing → breaking → cotton pretreatment → bleaching → spin-drying → drying → packaging; Wool processing: Mercerized wool tops, one-piece sliver; The processed cotton fibers are blended with mercerized wool fibers → carding → first drawing → second drawing → roving → spinning → winding.

3. The production process of a high-proportion wool blend woven fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, The bleaching process uses the following additives: hydrogen peroxide - 27.5% 7~10g / L, caustic soda 3~4g / L, refining agent SA-E 2~3g / L, chelating agent 0.3~0.7g / L, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer - RENA: 1-5g / L, the remainder being water; the bleaching environment is 100℃×40min.

4. The production process of a high-proportion wool blend woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the weaving process, an air-jet loom is used. The temperature is 22-26℃, the humidity is 70%-75%, the operating efficiency is 88-93%, the tension is 3000-3200, the machine speed is 620-680 rpm, the back beam is 2.5m high and 4m deep, and the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.35MPa.

5. The production process of a high-proportion wool blend woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the dyeing and finishing process, Huntsman double bleaching is performed: The first step of the process involves adding SA 2g / L and ONE 1g / L at room temperature, and incubating at 60℃ for 20 minutes. In the second step, ONE 1g / L is added at room temperature, and the temperature is increased to 60℃ at 1℃ / min. Then, caustic soda 4g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L are added, with a time interval of 5min between the addition of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide. The temperature is increased to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and held for 30min. In the third step, add ONE 2g / L to the auxiliary agent at room temperature, heat to 60℃ at 1℃ / min, add caustic soda 3g / L and hydrogen peroxide 8g / L with a time interval of 5min between adding caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide, heat to 110℃ at 2.5℃ / min and keep warm for 30min, then wash with hot water at 80℃×10min, and add acid enzyme at 52.5℃×20min.

6. The production process of a high-proportion wool blend woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the finishing process, singeing and desizing: machine speed 100m / min, flame intensity 8, water washing temperature 90-95℃; Liquid ammonia: Vehicle speed 40-50m / min; Rolling speed: 55 m / min, stacking time: 4-6 hours; Dyeing speed: 35-40 m / min; Drying speed: 70 m / min, temperature 120℃; Wrinkle-free: machine speed m / min, pressure 1.6, drying room temperature 100~110℃, SF-P: 15g / L, R-PU: 20g / L, WA-M: 1g / L; Baking: machine speed 50~60m / min, drying room temperature 140~150℃; Water washing: water temperature 40~50℃, machine speed m / min, acid tank pH value 3; Tensioning: Pressure 30, machine speed 80m / min, drying oven temperature 130℃, 9106: 20g / L; Pre-shrinkage: at a speed of 60 m / min, the shrinkage rate is 2% according to GB standards.

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