Cosmetic composition in compact solid form comprising a wax of vegetable origin, a particular liquid compound, and a solid or semi-solid compound based on triglycerides of vegetable origin.

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in the form of a compact solid comprising: (a) at least one vegetable wax, optionally hydrogenated and transesterified or not, (b) at least one organic compound liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure having from 13 to 30 carbon atoms, a flash point above 95°C, and the structure R1-(O)n1-(CO)n2-(O)n3-R2, where R1 and R2 independently denote a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 6 to 15 carbon atoms, n1 denotes the value 0 or the value 1, n2 denotes the value 0 or the value 1, and n3 denotes the value 0 or the value 1, provided that if n2 denotes the value 1 then n3 denotes the value 1, and if n2 denotes the value 0 then n1 and n3 cannot both denote the value 1, (c) at least one solid or semi-solid compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure based on triglycerides of origin vegetable, possibly hydrogenated and / or transesterified.This composition is preferably anhydrous. It is used particularly for the treatment of skin and lips. A process for treating cosmetic substrates with this composition is also described.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition in the form of a compact solid comprising a wax of plant origin, a particular liquid compound, and a solid or semi-solid compound based on triglycerides of plant origin.

[0001] In the field of cosmetics, a current trend is towards the substitution of synthetic fats with fats of natural origin to meet three parameters that have become well established in the minds of consumers. The first parameter is a distrust of chemistry and more particularly petrochemicals, a source of pollution in the public mind. The second parameter is the existence of doubts about the safety of certain products. We can mention in this regard the suspicions caused by the use of silicones. The third parameter is linked to ecology. There is now a desire to limit the carbon footprint of the compounds used. With this in mind, the use of ingredients obtained from renewable raw materials of plant origin is an area that is developing. However, the use of natural fatty substances does not prevent the maintenance of consumer demands. On the one hand, consumers want cosmetic products to be easy to use and for their impact upon application to cosmetic substrates such as the skin, lips, and appendages (hair, body hair, nails) to be pleasant and not cause unpleasant effects such as dryness, stickiness, or roughness. Finally, it is important that the manufacture of the products can be carried out in complete safety.

[0002] To achieve the aforementioned objectives, the applicant recommends cosmetic compositions in the form of compact solids comprising: (a) at least one vegetable wax whose ester component is based on monoesters and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified (b) at least one organic compound which is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and has a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 13 to 29, and of structure Rl-(O)ni-(CO)n2-(O)n3-R2 RI and R2 independently designating a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 6 to 15 carbon atoms. ni denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n2 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n3 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 provided that if n2 denotes the value 1 then n3 denotes the value let that if n2 denotes the value 0 then ni and n3 cannot both denote the value 1. (c) at least one solid or semi-solid compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure based on triglycerides of vegetable origin, optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified.

[0003] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "compact solid" means a product that is at least solid at its periphery at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and does not flow spontaneously like a powder. It may be referred to as a self-supporting structure that retains its predetermined shape over time. The compact solid is most often in the form of a stick or a pencil. This stick or pencil may be entirely solid and of homogeneous structure or may optionally comprise a liquid core surrounded by a solid shell or be in the form of a solid core surrounded by a solid shell of a different nature from that of the core. Room temperature means a temperature ranging from 20 to 35°C. Atmospheric pressure means the classic value of 1.013 x 105 Pa. By vegetable wax whose ester component is based on mono and / or diesters, it is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that all of the mono and diesters constitute the largest weight portion of the esters of the wax (a), before any possible transesterification or hydrogenation reaction. This vegetable wax, derived directly from plants by fractionation, can possibly be chemically transformed but only by hydrogenation and / or by transesterification (by reaction with an alcohol). A liquid is a compound that, on a macroscopic scale, does not have its own shape and cannot be grasped, unlike a solid. It is a fluid that adapts to the shape of the container in which it is placed. When transferred to another container, a liquid still retains its volume. A liquid therefore has its own volume. At rest, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal in equilibrium. A solid or semi-solid compound based on triglycerides of vegetable origin, possibly hydrogenated or transesterified, is understood to mean a compound which does not flow at room temperature and atmospheric pressure under the effect of its own weight and the largest part by weight of which is made up of triglycerides of origin derived directly from plants by fractionation and which may possibly be chemically transformed but only by hydrogenation and / or by transesterification (by reaction with an alcohol). These compounds are therefore to be distinguished from vegetable oils.

[0004] The compositions of the invention make it possible to easily produce compact solid textures which, once produced, are easily applied to cosmetic substrates without an unpleasant feel and with a great deal of softness, without a sticky or greasy effect. Furthermore, the ingredients (a), (b) and (c), which are not silicone-based, can be bio-sourced, which reduces the ecological impact of these formulas.

[0005] In the prior art, document WO9843605 A1 from COLGATE PALMOLIVE describes sticks with less visible residue comprising gelling agents chosen from particular waxes, solvents chosen from volatile cyclic silicones and aliphatic hydrocarbons, particular non-volatile emollients, deodorant or antiperspirant actives and particular surfactants. In the hydrocarbon solvents, those in C10-C32, for example in C10-C20, are mentioned. Among these hydrocarbons, isohexadecane and isoeicosane are specifically mentioned in a list. Silicone solvents are nevertheless preferred and are the only ones illustrated in the examples.In addition, waxes with a high melting point such as beeswax, montan wax, ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin, synthetic waxes, hydrogenated castor oil and waxes with a low melting point such as C8-C20 fatty alcohols, silicone waxes with a preference for stearyl alcohol and hydrogenated castor oil are mentioned. Hydrogenated castor oil is a compound that is in principle solid or semi-solid and based on triglycerides. It therefore falls into the class of compounds (c). Also mentioned are crystalline and microcrystalline waxes, esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, stearoxydimethicone and mixtures containing stearyl alcohol plus beeswax (of animal origin) or cetyl alcohol and hydrogenated castor oil. On the other hand, there are therefore no compounds (a) among all these waxes. Document JP2006298866 A of POLA CHEM IND INC describes emulsified preparations for the skin comprising an alkyl modified carboxyvinyl polymer, a carbonic acid diester and solid and liquid fatty substances. The diesters are preferably dicaprylyl carbonate and dicaprylyl carbonate but other esters are indicated besides compounds (b) such as dihexyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate. Many fatty substances are mentioned: hydrocarbon waxes, silicone derivatives, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty esters. Among the latter is beeswax (of animal origin). There is also carnauba wax or sumac wax (mokuro wax) which are compounds (a) but these compounds do not appear in the examples. There is no mention of solid or semi-solid fatty substances based on triglycerides of vegetable origin; only derivatives of hardened castor oil are mentioned without further details on the nature of these derivatives. The fatty substance is preferably beeswax, which is not a compound (a). The final product may be a highly viscous cream. The possibility of a compact solid is not mentioned. Document CN104352362 A of H and B COSMETICS CORP CO LTD describes an aqueous solid pre-makeup composition for improving durability makeup, comprising glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane, acrylic acid / polyester / dimethicone copolymer, dioctyl carbonate, cyclopentamethicone, preservative, butanediol, VP / ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, sodium hyaluronate, essence, oat beta-glucan. No fatty substances are mentioned, therefore no wax (a) in this document, nor any solid or semi-solid compound based on triglycerides of vegetable origin (c). It should also be noted that this document requires silicones in its compositions. Document JP2011207807 A from the company NIPPON MENAADE KESHOHN KK describes a non-aqueous cosmetic composition comprising a vegetable oil with triglycerides as main components, a dimethiconol, a cyclic silicone and dicaprylyl ether. As fatty substances that can be used in the compositions, numerous compounds are mentioned in a long list, including waxes and occasionally carnauba wax, not present in the examples. No solid or semi-solid compounds based on triglycerides of plant origin (c) are mentioned in this document. There is no mention of a possible solid form for this composition. It is even indicated that it is preferably transparent and in the examples we speak of compositions pourable into transparent bottles. Finally, note that by definition the compositions in this document contain silicones. Document JP2000212020 A of the company KANEBO LTD relates to iso fatty acids of particular formulas and to compositions comprising mixed esters of these fatty acids and cholesterol associated with hydrogenated lecithin and C12-C20 dialkyl ethers. Dioctyl ether is particularly preferred. Among the possible additives, a large number of compounds are mentioned, including waxes, including beeswax (of animal origin). Hydrogenated castor oil is also mentioned, but also polyoxyethylenated, which is therefore not a compound (c). The mentioned dosage forms include creams, milks, masks but there is no compact solid form cited and the examples are creams. Document CN112641674 A of the company SUZHOU JIDA BIOTECHNOLOGY CO LTD describes a matte lipstick which is not easy to discolor comprising in a phase A a saturated Cl6-24 alkane, a skin conditioning agent, a polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, a low molecular weight polyol, in a phase B a binder in the form of a waxy solid with a melting point of 60°C-90°C, polyethylene, stearate, cetearyl alcohol, sorbitan olivate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate as supplement, and in phase C an anti-caking agent, fillers, colorants. The preferred alkanes are C18-C22 alkanes and in particular isoeicosane. In skin conditioning agents branched esters are preferred including diethylhexyl carbonate. In the waxy agents of phase B are mentioned mixtures containing ozokerite, microcrystalline wax and candelilla wax or ceresin microcrystalline wax and candelilla wax. The term stearate covers the compounds isostearate and / or polyglycerol-2 diisostearate. Examples include candelilla wax and isoeicosane. On the other hand, there is no mention in this document of fatty compounds based on solid or semi-solid triglycerides. It should also be noted that the compositions described in this document necessarily contain a silicone. Document JP 2011132153 A of SHISEIDO CO LTD describes a rod-shaped solid stripper comprising one or more volatile oils selected from silicone-based oils and hydrocarbon-based oils. Among the hydrocarbon oils isohexadecane is cited but the preferred oils are decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and mixtures of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and isododecane. In the compositions, solid fatty substances are considered to be of mineral, synthetic or vegetable origin, and among the latter are candelilla wax or carnauba wax. Also mentioned among these solid fatty substances is hardened castor oil, which could be hydrogenated castor oil similar to a wax and which is not found in the examples. The examples describe pencils but none of them describe compounds (b) according to the invention. Note that example 1 contains candelilla wax but also several silicones. Document WO2020252786 A from the company L'OREAL describes a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprising a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase, and comprising: (i) at least one silicone elastomer; ii) at least one oxypropylenized and / or oxyethylated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, iii) at least one (C8-C22) alkyl dimethicone copolyol, (iv) at least one wax with a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C; (v) at least one solid fatty substance selected from C18-C30 alkane, solid ester of fatty acid and fatty alcohol, or a mixture thereof; and (vi) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprising a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer. A large number of waxes are mentioned in the description, of all possible origins, natural or synthetic, silicone-based or not. Natural waxes include waxes of animal origin and waxes of vegetable origin such as candelilla, carnauba, rice or ouricury waxes. There are also fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched fatty chains. In the oils of ingredients vi) are mentioned isohexadecane and isododecyl isononanoate. The dosage forms cover powders and solids obtained by casting. In the composition of the example, the ingredients include candelilla wax, octadecane, isononyl isononanoate, and isohexadecane, but this composition does not contain any solid or semi-solid compounds based on triglycerides of plant origin. It should also be noted that five silicones are present in this example, knowing that in any case, the claimed compositions necessarily contain at least three types of silicones. Document CN109431956 A from WECKERLE COSMETIC HANGZHOU CO LTD describes matte lip polishes comprising water and multiple ingredients including a blend of undecane and tridecane and sunflower seed wax. On the other hand, the compositions do not contain solid or semi-solid compounds (c) based on triglycerides of plant origin. Finally, this product does not come in a solid stick form, a form for which poor durability and easy disposal are attributed in this document. The finished products in this document are in the form of fluid compositions. Document KR20200038810 A from COSMAX INC describes compositions for UV protection comprising triethoxycaprylylsilane, coco caprylate / caprate, an inorganic sunscreen and an amino acid-derived gelling agent dispersed in polyhydroxystearic acid. Coco caprylate / caprate is a compound (b). The stick shape is the preferred shape. The description provides for the possible addition of waxes but only mineral waxes are mentioned. Compounds (a) and (c) are therefore not discussed in this document. Please note that the compositions must contain an organic silicon compound. Document WO2020245569 Al of the company BOSTON HEALTHCARE LTD describes compositions comprising a skin conditioning agent, an emollient and a humectant, wherein the composition comprises no more than about 2.0% by weight of any paraffin-based component. These compositions can be in the form of a spray, cream, lotion, balm, gel, serum, oil, or solid stick. The composition in the example is clearly not a stick. The list of emollients covers isostearyl isostearate, caprylic or capric triglyceride, decyl oleate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, myristyl myristate, coco-caprylate or coco-caprate, or any natural oil or butter (such as, but not limited to, almond oil, shea butter, or olive oil). Isostearyl isostearate is preferred and is the compound illustrated in the only example in the document. Cococaprylate or cococaprate are (b) compounds often used in mixtures. Shea butter is a (c) compound. No compound (a) is described in this document.

[0006] None of the cited documents published in the prior art therefore describes compositions according to the invention.

[0007] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one vegetable wax (a) based on mono and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified. With the exception of a few specific cases, plant waxes are produced and located on the surface of the aerial parts of plants, at the level of their cuticle. Vegetable cuticular waxes are essentially made up of aliphatic compounds that can be roughly divided into two groups. The first group includes the most common compounds such as alkane, ester, acid, primary alcohol, and aldehyde. The second group, on the other hand, includes rarer compounds such as ketones, secondary alcohols, or [3-diketones.] Other minor, non-aliphatic elements are also found. These are cyclic or polycyclic compounds grouped under the term triterpenoids and present in the form of alcohol (sterols, a-amyrin, [3-amyrin, lupeol, erythrodiol, etc.) or acids (ursolic, olenolic, etc.). For true vegetable waxes, the esterification of fatty acids takes place with a mono or dihydroxy fatty alcohol, whereas for natural vegetable oils or vegetable butters it is with glycerol, in which case triesters (triglycerides) are formed. Monoesters or diesters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are therefore the predominant elements of the ester fraction of waxes of the invention, which clearly distinguishes them from vegetable butters or oils. The fatty acids of the esters of these waxes are generally carboxylic acids saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, containing 16 to 28 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of these same esters can be mono or di hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and generally contain 20 to 34 carbon atoms. Preferably the melting point of the waxes of the invention is greater than or equal to 30°C, better still greater than 35°C, even better still greater than 40°C. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example that offered by the company METTLER under the reference DSC 30. The vegetable waxes (a) are preferably chosen from natural waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax and in particular rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, orange wax, bay leaf wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, lacquer tree fruit bark wax (Rhus Vemiciflua), soy wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, olive wax, avocado wax, peach wax, argan wax. As indicated previously, the vegetable waxes of the invention can be hydrogenated. These vegetable waxes, hydrogenated or not, can also be transesterified. In organic chemistry, transesterification is the process of exchanging the organic group RI of an ester RCOO-R1 with the organic group R2 from an alcohol R2-OH. This alcohol can be a monohydric alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol. These reactions are often catalyzed by the addition of an acid or base catalyst. Hydrogenation and / or transesterification are the only chemical transformations that the vegetable waxes (a) of the invention can undergo. Apart from the chemical operations mentioned above, obtaining the vegetable waxes (a) of the invention can involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. Preferably, the vegetable wax(es) (a) are chosen from carnauba, candelilla, sunflower or rice waxes, hydrogenated or not, transesterified or not. The compositions of the invention comprise vegetable waxes (a) in a proportion preferably ranging from 1% to 45% by weight, better still from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one organic compound (b) which is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and has a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 13 to 29, and of structure Rl-(O)ni-(CO)n2-(O)n3-R2 RI and R2 independently designating a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 6 to 15 carbon atoms. ni denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n2 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n3 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 provided that if n2 denotes the value 1 then n3 denotes the value 1 and that if n2 denotes the value 0 then ni and n3 cannot both denote the value 1. In a first variant of the invention, the compound(s) (b) are chosen from those for which ni, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 0. The compounds (b) are then alkanes. They may be linear or branched alkanes. The alkanes (b) will preferably be chosen from tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane, isoeicosane, isoheneicosane, 2, 6, 10 trimethyldodecane, 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8 heptamethylnonane, 2, 6, 10, 14 tetramethylhexadecane.Mixtures containing these alkanes (b) include those referenced with the following INCI names from the CTFA dictionary: . C13-15 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane. In a second variant of the invention, the compound(s) (b) are chosen from those for which n1 and n2 both denote the value 0 and n3 denotes the value 1. The compounds (b) are then liquid dialkyl ethers. They may be linear or branched dialkyl ethers, preferably linear. More preferably, R1 and R2 are identical. As ether (b), mention may be made of dioctyl ether or dicaprylyl ether. In a third variant of the invention, the compound(s) (b) are chosen from those for which n1 denotes the value 0 and n2 and n3 both denote the value 1. The compounds (b) are then monoalkyl esters. They may be linear or branched esters. As esters (b), mention may be made of dodecyl decanoate, dodecyl octanoate, isononanoyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, R1 and R2 are identical. In an interesting variant the esters are linear. In a fourth variant of the invention, the compound(s) (b) are chosen from those for which n1, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 1. The compounds (b) are then dialkyl carbonates. They may be linear or branched alkyl carbonates, preferably linear. Dialkyl carbonates (b) may include dicaprylyl carbonate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, if n2 and n3 both denote the value 1, then ni also denotes the value 1. Preferably, compounds (b) have a flash point greater than or equal to 75°C. Even more preferably, the flash point of compounds (b) is greater than or equal to 80°C, better still greater than or equal to 85°C, even better still greater than or equal to 90°C. Flash point (or flammability point or flash point in English) is the temperature at which a combustible body emits sufficient vapors to form, with the ambient air, a gaseous mixture which ignites under the effect of a heat energy source such as a pilot flame, but not sufficiently for combustion to sustain itself (the ignition point must then be reached). The flash point is therefore lower than the ignition point. According to the invention, the flash point is the PMCC which is measured in a closed cup. The closed cup flash point is measured using a so-called Pensky-Martens device (Closed Cup: reason for the PMCC). A semi-automatic device of this type consists of a cup that can be filled with the liquid whose flash point is to be determined. The cup is then closed. The lid is equipped with a "flash" detection thermocouple whose tip is located above the liquid in the vapors. The device has a heater that allows the temperature to be raised degree by degree. Each time the temperature reaches a higher degree, a flame is immersed in the vapors. If there is ignition, it means that the flash point has been reached; otherwise, the device continues to increase the temperature of the liquid. Preferably, the flash point of the compounds (b) of the invention is measured according to the ASTM D93-13 standard. Preferably, compounds (b) have a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 14 to 28. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of compounds (b) preferably ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The compositions according to the invention additionally comprise one or more solid or semi-solid compounds (c) based on triglycerides of plant origin. Triglycerides are triesters of glycerol with carboxylic fatty acids preferably comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated. These compounds (c) can be chosen from butters. Butters are distinguished from oils, and particularly from vegetable oils, by their appearance. They are in fact in solid or semi-solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. They contain triglycerides with a significant fraction of saturated fatty acids. Compounds (c) generally have a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C. c. Preferably, the compounds (c) of the invention are completely natural or may result from a hydrogenation and / or a transesterification, total or partial, of natural triglycerides of plant origin. Thus these compounds (c) can be chosen from oils of plant origin which have undergone only hydrogenation and / or transesterification as chemical transformations, thus modifying their composition and their appearance. This is particularly the case for jojoba butter. This is also the case for the ingredient Lipocire A offered by the company GATTEFOSSE. It should be noted that transesterified triglycerides can lead to waxy forms which should be distinguished from the vegetable waxes (a) of the invention by their chemical structure. The compounds (c) which can be used in the compositions of the invention can thus be more particularly chosen from natural vegetable butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, babassu butter, almond butter, jojoba butter, apricot butter, pistachio butter, argan butter, avocado butter, coconut butter, olive butter, plum butter, oat butter, cupuaçu butter, murumuru butter, apricot butter, hazelnut butter, tucuma butter, lemon butter, rice butter, macadamia butter, jasmine butter, rose butter and compounds which have only undergone hydrogenation as a chemical transformation, such as jojoba butter. Apart from possible chemical operations of hydrogenation or transesterification, obtaining these triglycerides can involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. Preferably, compounds (c) are chosen from mango butter, jojoba butter, almond butter, better still from mango butter and almond butter. The compositions of the invention preferably comprise a proportion of compounds (c) preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more additional non-chemically transformed vegetable oils different from the compounds (a) and (c) of the invention. These are liquid compounds at room temperature and atmospheric pressure which can flow under the action of their own weight. They are preferably non-chemically transformed. Among the oils of plant origin which can be used in the invention, we can in particular: include sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra or coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vemonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, raspberry seed oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, oat oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, coffee oil. These additional vegetable oils different from compounds (a) and (c) may be present in the compositions of the invention at a concentration preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The compositions of the invention may also comprise additional fatty substances other than compounds (a), (b), (c) and the vegetable oils mentioned above. These additional fatty substances may be non-vegetable oils or waxes. Additional oils can be polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile (an oil is said to be non-volatile when its vapor pressure is less than 0.02 mm of mercury at atmospheric pressure and room temperature). Additional oils can be hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. The apolar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutylenes or polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes. Polar oils are preferably hydrocarbon-based. They may be chosen from branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. They may also be chosen from esters other than triglycerides and esters (b), such as isopropyl myristate or isostearyl isosterate. Additional waxes can be hydrocarbon-based and of natural, mineral, animal or synthetic origin. They can be polar or non-polar. Examples of non-polar waxes include paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. The polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from non-salified saturated fatty acids, ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. The unsalified saturated fatty acids are preferably chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, behenic acid, myristic acid. The additional ester waxes are preferably chosen from fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in solid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) such as myristyl myristate or stearyl stearate. They may also be polyol esters. The additional alcohol waxes are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol. These additional fatty bodies different from compounds (a), (b), (c) and vegetable oils may be present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more absorbent powders insoluble in water and preferably of natural origin. By water-insoluble is meant a compound whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 0.1% by weight. These absorbent powders are powders having a high water absorption capacity, at least equal to 100% of their weight. Even more preferably, this water absorption capacity is greater than or equal to 140% of their weight at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The water absorption capacity according to the invention can be evaluated by the tea bag technique as mentioned in patent application WO9715367 of the company CAMELOT SUPERABSORBENTS, this via the parameter FS (Free swell liquid retention), with water absorption capacity = 100 x FS. This method consists of inserting a certain quantity of absorbent powder (0.2 g) into a water-permeable tea bag and immersing said bag in water for 10 minutes with stirring. After removing the bag from the aqueous medium, eliminating the water outside the bag, weighing the bag (W1) allows, after subtraction of a blank (W2) corresponding to a bag without absorbent powder, to determine the value of FS = ((W1-W2) / W3) - 1. In a variant of the invention, these absorbent powders have a mineral origin. As absorbent mineral powders, it is possible to use in particular silicas or silica-rich powders such as perlite or diatomaceous earths as well as silicates. It will be preferable to use silicates and in particular phyllosilicates. It will be possible to choose talc, kaolinite, attapulgites, sepiolites, smectites including montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite. It will also be possible to use clays containing them, such as for example bentonite, kaolin. Preferably, aluminosilicates and compounds containing them will be used as absorbent natural mineral powders according to the invention. In another variant of the invention, these absorbent powders have a plant origin. For example, whole plants or powdered plant parts can be used. Examples include fruit, grain, and vegetable powders such as oat powder made from oat bran or stems. Bamboo powders, especially those made from sap, can also be used. Preferably, these absorbent powders of plant origin will be chosen from polysaccharides and in particular from celluloses or starches. Starch is a mixture of two polymers, amylose with a PM ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000 Daltons and amylopectin (or isoamylose) with a PM ranging from 1,000,000 to 100,000,000 Daltons, both based on D-anhydroglucopyranose units linked together by (1-4) alpha glycosidic bonds and (1-6) alpha glycosidic bonds, the latter generating short branches for amylose, longer ones for amylopectin. Starch grains generally appear as semi-crystalline granules in which amylopectin is organized into sheets, creating the crystalline zone, while amylose defines an amorphous zone between the different sheets. The starches that can be used in the context of the invention are preferably chosen from corn, tapioca or rice starches. Mention will be made in particular of the products in the NATIVACARE range offered by the company INGREDION and in particular the products NATIVACARE 5600, 8600, 9230, 9360 and 9330. It will also be possible to use the products in the AGRANA range from the company AZELIS such as the products belonging to the names MAISITA, AGENAMALT, TAPIOCA NATURAL or ORGANIC. Certain starches that can be used according to the invention may be chemically modified starches such as those of the AGENAJEL name from the company AZELIS (INCI names Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate or Distarch Phosphate). Cellulose is a naturally occurring polymer composed of glucose units linked by a (1-4) beta glycosidic bond. The linear cellulose chains are bundled together as microfibrils that are spirally coiled within plant cell walls. These microfibrils exhibit a high degree of three-dimensional internal bonding, forming a crystalline structure that is insoluble in water and resistant to reagents. There are, however, relatively small segments of the microfibril with weaker internal bonding. These are called amorphous regions. The preferred celluloses of the invention are microcrystalline celluloses. The crystalline region of the cellulose is isolated to produce microcrystalline cellulose. Microcrystalline cellulose is thus partially depolymerized pure cellulose obtained by various processes such as reactive extrusion, enzymatic mediation, mechanical grinding, ultrasonication, steam explosion and acid hydrolysis. Most often, microcrystalline cellulose is prepared from wood pulp: said pulp is cut into small particles which are chemically hydrolyzed, in particular with a mineral acid, then a filtration and drying step takes place. The microcrystalline celluloses of the invention are marketed in particular by FMC Biopolymers under the name AVICEL PH 102, PH 103, PH 105, PH 112, PH 113, PH 200, PH 301, PH 302. They are also marketed by J. Rettenmaier & Sôhne GmbH & Co. under the trade name VIVAPUR 12, 14, 101, 102,103, 105,112, 113, 200; 301, 302 or VIVAPUR CS 9FM, 400, CS SENSORY 5S, CS SENSORY 15S, CS SENSORY 12 and by the company SEPPIC under the names CEOLUS UF-711, KG802, KG 1000, PH101, PH102 or PHF20JP, by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd. under the trade name Cellulobeads USF, D5, D10, D30, D50, D100, D200, D500. The particle size of the water-insoluble absorbent powders of the invention and of natural origin preferably ranges from 1 pm to 500 pm, better still from 1 pm to 250 pm, even better still from 2 pm to 100 pm and most preferably from 4 pm to 50 pm. The particle size of the powders can be determined, for example, with a particle size analyzer of the Horiba Cappa 700 type. The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably comprise from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of water-insoluble absorbent powders.

[0013] The compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more insoluble colored pigments. By insoluble colored pigment we mean a colored species, therefore neither white nor colorless, whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 0.1% by weight. The insoluble colored pigments (d) preferably have a solubility of less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.02% by weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The pigments of the invention may be carbon pigments, i.e. containing one or more carbon atoms in their chemical structure. The simplest of these carbon pigments is carbon black, which, excluding impurities, consists solely of carbon atoms. It may be derived from petrochemicals or natural plant sources. Other carbon-based colored pigments are organic molecules. These may include soluble synthetic organic dyes that are insolubilized by the formation of lakes. These lakes are generally metal salts. Examples include organic lakes of calcium, barium, strontium, aluminum, and titanium. the aluminum lakes of DC Red 2, DC Red 3, DC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 22, DC Red 27, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Red 40, DC Blue 1, DC Green 3, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5, DC Orange 10, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 10, FDC Blue 2, FDC Yellow 5, FDC Yellow 6, FDC Blue 1, FDC Red 40, FDC Green 3, the barium / strontium lakes of DC Red 6, DC Red 9, the strontium lakes of DC Red 6, the potassium lakes of DC Red 6, the lakes of barium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 27, DC Orange 17, calcium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 27, DC Red 31, DC Red 34, calcium / strontium lakes of DC Red 7, zirconium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Orange 5, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 7, sodium lakes of DC Red 8, DC Red 10,the aluminum / titanium / zirconium lake of DC Red 27. The colored pigments can also be mineral pigments not containing carbon atoms. Mineral colored pigments include iron oxides, ochres or earths, lapis lazuli, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, metallic particles (gold, silver), and mica-titaniums. These pigments can optionally be combined with borosilicates. Synthetic organomineral pigments such as nacres coated on the surface with at least one organic colorant or pigment can also be used. In a preferred variant of the invention, the colored pigments used are not of animal origin. In another preferred embodiment, the carbon colored pigments are preferably of plant origin. This includes carbon black. The colored pigments may optionally be used in the compositions of the invention in the form of dispersions, the dispersing agents being able to be solids or liquids. The colored pigments may be present in the compositions of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.0001% to 35% by weight, better still from 0.0005% by weight to 25% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. The additional anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfonates, N acyl lactylates, N salts acylamino acids such as acyl glutamates. The additional amphoteric surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, camphodiacetates. The additional cationic surfactants may in particular be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts such as trialkyl ammonium halides and from quaternary diesters. The additional non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols or amides, esters of fatty acids and polyols and alkylpolyglycosides. The additional surfactants may be present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The compositions of the invention may also contain one or more extracts of plant origin different from the compounds already mentioned. For the purposes of the present invention, an extract of plant origin means an extract containing one or more active ingredients derived from a plant or a plant secretion. Plant-based extracts can come from all types of plants belonging to the plant kingdom. They can therefore come from cryptogams but more preferably from phanerogams. In particular, they can come from trees, shrubs, green plants, flowering plants, cacti, and grasses. They can come from all parts of the plant and in particular from the roots, stems or trunks, leaves, flowers and fruits. These extracts can be soluble or insoluble in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The concentration of extracts of plant origin other than the compounds mentioned above, in the compositions of the invention, if they are present, preferably varies from 0.001% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 50%, better still from 0.2% to 40%, even better still from 1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers and in particular thickening polymers, UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, solvents such as glycols, humectants, moisturizing agents, vitamins, provitamins, amino acids, perfumes, peptizing agents, preservatives, agents antioxidants, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular to regulate the pH of aqueous compositions or to salify ingredients), chelating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents for sensitive skin, anti-pollution agents, anti-imperfection agents and slimming agents.

[0017] Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain organic compounds comprising one or more silicon atoms in their structure. By organic compound comprising one or more silicon atoms in its structure is meant in particular, within the meaning of the invention, a compound having in its chemical structure at least one R-Si-O- chain, R being a hydrocarbon radical optionally carrying one or more heteroatoms. These organic silicon compounds are in particular silicone compounds and silanes, the latter being reactive compounds leading to the formation of silicone compounds.

[0018] The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) less than 5% water by weight, even better less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably not containing water, in particular added water. For the purposes of the invention, the term "aqueous" means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) from 5% to 99.5% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. If the compositions of the invention contain water, they comprise at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) preferably from 5 to 95%, better still from 5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a variant of the invention, the compositions are aqueous. Emulsions can be oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple emulsions. In another variant of the invention, the compositions are anhydrous. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are anhydrous. The compact solid form, aqueous or anhydrous, is the form of the compositions of the invention. The compact solid is most often in the form of a stick (or rod or rodlet) or a pencil. This stick or pencil may be entirely solid and of homogeneous structure or may optionally comprise a liquid core surrounded by a solid shell or be in the form of a solid core surrounded by a solid shell of a different nature from that of the core.

[0019] The stick or pencil can also be a juxtaposition of several faces of different natures. The section of the stick or pencil can be of any shape, including rectangular, circular or oval. The outer surface of the stick or pencil may be beveled or domed. Preferably, the hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) of the compact solids in the invention is greater than 25 Nm 1 and less than 500 Nm1, better still greater than 30 Nm 1 and less than 400 Nm1, even better still between 35 Nm 1 and 200 Nm1. This hardness can be measured using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the company Indelco-Chatillon. In general, the compositions of the invention can be packaged either directly, for example for sticks, in top-fill or back-fill packaging. For sticks (or sticks or sticklets) or for pencils, it is possible to go from a very thin diameter of 1 mm to larger diameters of 150 mm, preferably from 5 mm to 45 mm. Casting in a mold (for example, metal mold, silicone mold, plastic mold) can also make it possible to obtain final compositions of compact solids in very diverse forms such as flowers, macaroons, hearts, tablets, bars, sheets that can be packaged in all types of containers made from very diverse materials (paper, plastic, cardboard, glass, metal for example).

[0020] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably topical compositions. By topical is meant a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external body substrates. The compositions according to the invention are intended particularly for the treatment of the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows. The compositions of the invention may be used in particular for skin makeup, in particular in foundations, eye shadows or eyeshadows, for lip makeup, in particular in lipsticks or glosses, and for eyelash or eyebrow makeup, in particular in mascaras. They may also be used for skin cleansing, for skin care, in particular for moisturizing products and anti-wrinkle products, anti-blemish products, as well as for sunscreen products and self-tanning products. The compositions of the invention may also be used for nail care. These compositions can also be used for cleaning hair, for coloring or bleaching, for curling or straightening or for conditioning (improving feel and shine). Finally, these compositions can be used for treating scalps and in particular for anti-irritation products, anti-dandruff products, anti-grease products or anti-hair loss products. Preferably the compositions will be used for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows and even more preferably for the skin or lip treatment.

[0021] The invention also covers a method for treating the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, and preferably the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to the substrate concerned a topical cosmetic composition as described above with or without subsequent rinsing.

[0022] [Examples]

[0023] The examples below illustrate the invention without, however, limiting its scope. Example 1 The composition described in Table 1 below is that of a compact solid in the form of a stick intended to be applied to the face, particularly for skincare purposes. This stick is made up of ingredients that give it good safety and a low ecological impact. The composition is manufactured without problems. The application of this composition to the skin is easy, the touch is pleasant without any greasy or sticky effect on the face.

[0024] [Tableaux 1] Ingredients INCI Name Content Quantity in g for 100 g of composition Carnauba wax Copemicia Cerifera wax KAHLWAX 9,000 Candelilla wax Euphorbia Cerifera wax KAHLWAX 9,000 Syncrowax HRC Tribehenin CRODA 9,000 Lipocire A CIO-18 Triglycérides GATTEFOSSE 5,000 Mangosteen butter Mangifera indica seed butter SOPHIM 5,000 Emogreen L19 C15-19 Alkane SEPPIC 56,895 Covi-Ox T-90 EU C Tocopherol BASF 0,100 Plump oil Prunus domestica seed oil SOPHIM 1,000 Vitacel CS 20 FC Cellulose JRS 1,000 ImerCare 30P Perlite IMERYS / SAFIC 3,000 Vitacel CS 5 Oat Avina Sativa (oat) Hull Fiber JRS 1,000 Covapate Uniblue LC6721 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) CI 42090 SENSIENT 0,005

[0025] Example 2 The composition described in Table 2 below is that of a compact solid in the form of a stick intended to be applied around the eyes, in particular to reduce dark circles. This stick is made up of ingredients that give it good safety and a low ecological impact. The manufacture of the composition is carried out without problems. The application of this composition on the skin is easy, the touch is pleasant without a greasy or sticky effect around the eyes.

[0026] [Tables2] Ingredient Name INCI Supplier Quantity in g per 100 g of composition Carnauba wax Copemicia Cerifera wax KAHLWAX 9.00 Candelilla wax Euphorbia Cerifera Cera KAHLWAX 9.00 Syncrowax HRC Tribehenin CRODA 8GASEDES Cglycéri-1 Lipoheni 5,00 Mangue butter Mangifera indica seed butter SOPHIM 5,00 Emogreen L19 C15-19 Alkane SEPPIC 57,09 Covi-Ox T-90 EU C Tocopherol BASF 0,10 Vivapur CS Sensory 5S GradeUse0 JCrystalline Cellu Coffea Arabica seed oil GIVAUDAN 0.30 Phytosqualane Squalane SOPHIM 0.50 Covapate Uniorange LC2726 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) CI 15985 SENSIENT 0.01

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a compact solid comprising: (a) at least one vegetable wax whose ester component is based on monoesters and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified (b) at least one organic compound which is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and which has a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 13 to 29, and of structure Rl-(O)ni-(CO)n2-(O)n3-R2 RI and R2 independently of each other denote a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 6 to 15 carbon atoms. ni denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n2 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n3 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 provided that if n2 denotes the value 1 then n3 denotes the value 1 and that if n2 denotes the value 0 then ni and n3 cannot both denote the value 1.(c) at least one solid or semi-solid compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure based on triglycerides of vegetable origin, optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified.

2. Composition according to claim 1 in which the vegetable wax(es) (a) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, transesterified or non-transesterified camauba, candelilla, sunflower or rice waxes.

3. Compositions according to claims 1 or 2 in which the vegetable waxes (a) are present in a proportion ranging from 1% to 45% by weight, better still from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which n1, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 0, the compounds (b) then being alkanes preferably chosen from tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane, isoeicosane, isoheneicosane, 2, 6, 10 trimethyldodecane, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8 heptamethylnonane, 2, 6, 10, 14 tetramethylhexadecane.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in which n1 and n2 both denote the value 0 and n3 denotes the value 1, the compounds (b) then being dialkyl ethers and preferably dioctyl ether or dicaprylyl ether.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein n1 denotes the value 0 and n2 and n3 both denote the value 1, compounds (b) being monoalkyl esters and preferably dodecyl decanoate or dodecyl octanoate or mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in which n1, n2 and n3 all denote the value l, the compounds (b) then being dialkyl carbonates and preferably dicaprylyl carbonate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (b) have a flash point greater than or equal to 75°C, preferably greater than or equal to 80°C, better still greater than or equal to 85°C, even better still greater than or equal to 90°C.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (b) have a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 14 to 28.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (b) are present in a proportion ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (c) are totally natural or can result from a hydrogenation and / or a transesterification, total or partial, of natural triglycerides of plant origin and are preferably chosen from mango butter, jojoba butter and almond butter, even better are chosen from mango butter and almond butter.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (c) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more vegetable oils different from compounds (a) and (c), preferably in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more water-insoluble absorbent powders, preferably of natural origin, preferably present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more insoluble colored pigments, preferably at a concentration ranging from 0.0001% to 35% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 25% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous, preferably stick, pencil or rod.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain an organic compound comprising in its structure one or more silicon atoms.

18. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the treatment of the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows and preferably for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows and even more preferably for the treatment of the skin and lips.

19. A method of treating the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, preferably the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows and even more preferably the skin and lips, consisting of applying to the substrate to be treated a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 with or without subsequent rinsing.