Cosmetic emulsion with low levels of foaming

The cosmetic emulsion, featuring glyceryl caprylate and pentaerythritol esters, addresses the issue of foaming in cosmetic products, ensuring low foaming, improved spreadability, and absorption without using silicone oils.

WO2025082638A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-04-24BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/069962
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-10-17
Filing Date
2024-07-15
Publication Date
2025-04-24

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Cosmetic emulsions often exhibit unwanted foaming upon application, which can lead to a white, uneven skin appearance and difficulty in spreading and absorption, especially in formulations without silicone oils or certain polymers.

Method used

A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, and/or glyceryl caprylate/caprate, along with pentaerythritol esters, which significantly reduces foaming levels without using silicone oils.

Benefits of technology

The emulsion achieves a very low foaming level upon application, improving the skin care product's spreadability and absorption, while maintaining a stable and effective formulation without silicones or specific polymers.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a cosmetic emulsion with low levels of foaming. Specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic oil in water emulsion comprising a) glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and / or glyceryl caprylate / caprate, and b) at least one or more pentaerythritol ester, which has improved anti-foaming capabilities.
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Description

[0001] Cosmetic emulsion with low levels of foaming

[0002] Technical field

[0003] The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic emulsion which comprises glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and / or glyceryl caprylate / caprateglyceryl caprylate and at least one or more pentaerythritol ester.

[0004] Background art

[0005] Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but their effects make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's wellbeing. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.

[0006] When applying cosmetic products such as body lotions and creams which contain an oil and an aqueous phase it is often observed that small air bubbles of the composition are formed on the skin. These air bubbles can be described as foam which has a white appearance. Typically, this foam disappears a couple of minutes after application to the skin.

[0007] In most cases anti-foaming agents are included in body lotions and creams which reduce the time until the air bubbles and with it the white foam disappears. If no anti foaming agents are used, the white appearance will need longer time to disappear, and the spreading / massage upon application to the skin will increase the foaming. Thus, for consumers, the skin care product will become whiter and whiter during applying, although finally it will disappear. As a result, the consumer will have the impression that the product is difficult to spread and absorb. The anti-foaming agents can help the air bubbles break and disappear faster, so the product seems to be easier spread and faster absorbed on skin.

[0008] Most often silicone oils are used as anti-foaming agent. E.g. dimethicone has low surface tension and is not easy to dissolve into water or other oil ingredients. As result it can easily move to the surface of the air bubbles and spread on the bubble surface. This process renders the surface of the bubble to become uneven so that the bubbles start to combine and break faster.

[0009] Typical silicone oil based anti-foaming compositions are described in US5531929 A. EP 0339958 A3 describes encapsulated silicone anti-foaming compositions. However, the use of silicone oils has been controversially discussed for various reasons in recent years. Thus, consumers generally prefer products which do not require the presence of silicone oils. Nevertheless, the appearance of foam upon applications shall remain at a limited level. That means the amount of foam and the time upon disappearance of the white foam shall be reduced.

[0010] On a further note it should be emphasized that the issue of foaming is even more relevant for formulations which are also free from polymers polymerized in a homo or copolymerization with acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and / or vinylpyrrolidone. This is the case if biopolymers such as natural gums or starch derivatives are contained.

[0011] Summary of the invention

[0012] It was surprisingly found that the anti-foaming capabilities can be improved by the present invention.

[0013] The present invention is a cosmetic oil in water emulsion comprising a) glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and / or glyceryl caprylate / caprate, and b) at least one or more pentaerythritol ester of the following formula (I) wherein Ri, R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected

[0014] - from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains with 5 to 13 C atoms, and / or

[0015] -CH2-(CH2)n-COOH, wherein n is an integer in the range from 3 to 7.

[0016] It was surprisingly further noted that the emulsions of the invention did show a very low foaming level upon application on the human skin. This is especially surprising, as the formulations are formulated without silicones. Most often silicone oils are used as anti- foaming agent. E.g. dimethicone has low surface tension and is not easy to dissolve into water or other oil ingredients. As result it can easily move to the surface of the foam characterized in air bubbles appearing upon application of the cosmetic product to the human skin and spread on the bubble surface. This process renders the surface of the bubble to become uneven so that the bubbles start to combine and break faster.

[0017] Definitions

[0018] All the weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.

[0019] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 25°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0020] In the following description the terms “according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the composition and to the method according to the invention.

[0021] For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.

[0022] The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin.

[0023] If viscosity values are given in this disclosure, then all values relate to a measurement at 25° C. in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from the company proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i. H. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. Measuring body No. 1 (Article No. 200 0191 ), suitable for a viscosity range of up to 10,000 [mPa s], speed range 62.5 min-1, is used as the measuring body. Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant".

[0024] Detailed description

[0025] For the case that glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and / or glyceryl caprylate / caprate are contained it is preferred if the total quantity of glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and / or glyceryl caprylate / caprate is in the range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.4 % by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 0.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0026] In a first embodiment of the invention, it is preferred if the compounds a) glyceryl caprylate is contained. For the case that glyceryl caprylate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of glyceryl caprylate is in the range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.4 % by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 0.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0027] In another embodiment of the invention, it is preferred if the compounds a) glyceryl caprate is contained. For the case that glyceryl caprate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of glyceryl caprylate is in the range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.4 % by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 0.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0028] In another embodiment of the invention, it is preferred if the compounds a) glyceryl caprylate / caprate is contained. For the case that glyceryl caprylate / caprate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of glyceryl caprylate / caprate is in the range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0029] According to the invention the emulsion comprises at least one pentaerythritol ester according to formula I. Among those esters the substance known under the INCI designation pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate is particular preferred.

[0030] It is further preferred if the total quantity of the esters according to formula I is in the range from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 8.0% by weight, still more preferably 1.4 to 6.0% by weight and most preferably 1 .9 to 5.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0031] Preferred embodiments of the invention are characterized in that pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate is contained and the total quantity of pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate is in the range from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 8.0% by weight, still more preferably 1.4 to 6.0% by weight and most preferably 1 .9 to 5.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0032] Comparative experiments with pentaerythrityl esters not falling in the scope of the claims i.e. with pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate have shown that the foaming issue of emulsion can only be solved by the present invention.

[0033] It is further preferred if the oil phase of the emulsion according to the invention sums up to a total quantity in the range from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 15% by weight and most preferably from 3.8 to 12.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. By definition, emulsifier and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. Nevertheless, fatty alcohols count as part of the oil phase. Thus, the compounds a) do not count to the total amount of the oil phase.

[0034] The oil phase of the present invention may comprise one or more additional natural or synthetic oils.

[0035] It is preferred according to the invention if the emulsion comprises at least one oil chosen from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.

[0036] According to the invention, it is preferred if the total quantity of esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0037] Preferred esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, are selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2- ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, , propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.

[0038] Among those isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl cocoate and / or isopropyl palmitate are particular preferred.

[0039] Accordingly it is preferred if the total quantity of esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2- ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, , propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0040] Further it is preferred if the total quantity of isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl cocoate and / or isopropyl palmitate is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0041] Further it is preferred if at least one fatty acid triglyceride is contained in the emulsion. The total quantity of the fatty acid triglycerides is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1 .0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1 .1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1 .2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0042] It is preferred if the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides), C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride,

[0043] Caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Capric / Lauric / Myristic / Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric / Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric / Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl

[0044] Monomaleate Triglyceride)), Hydrogenated C12-18 T riglycerides, Lauric / palmitic / oleic Triglyceride, Mustelic / palmitic Triglyceride, Oleic / linoleic Triglyceride, Oleic / Palmitic / Lauric / Myristic / Linoleic Triglyceride, Ricinoleic / caproic / caprylic / capric T riglyceride, Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride and / or Jojoba Oil / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Esters.

[0045] In particular preferred is Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride. Thus, it is particular preferred if the total quantity of the Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1 .2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0046] The fatty acid triglyceride can also be part of natural oils. Preferred natural oils, which can be contained are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine soja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.

[0047] Further it is preferred if the oil phase further comprises coco-glycerides and / or hydrogenated coco-glycerides. Coco-glycerides is a mixture of mono, di and triglycerides derived from coconut oil. For the case that coco-glycerides and / or hydrogenated coco-glycerides are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1 .0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1 .1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1 .2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0048] Further it is preferred if the emulsion comprises at least one neopentyl glycol ester. Examples of neopentyl glycol esters suitable for use and preferred in the present invention include neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and mixtures thereof. For the case that at least one neopentyl glycol ester is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 0.1 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.7 to 1 .6% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0049] Further the emulsion of the invention preferably contains a natural butter such as butyrospermum parkii butter. For the case that butyrospermum parkii butter is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of this butter is in the range from 0.05 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1 .5% by weight and most preferably from 0.2 to 0.9% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0050] Further it is preferred if the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 28 carbon atoms.

[0051] Further it is preferred if the emulsion comprises at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 28 carbon atoms.

[0052] According to the invention it is further preferred if the emulsion comprises less than 0.01% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid and / or methacrylic, based on the total weight of the composition. In order to provide the consumer with products fulfilling current environmental requirements it is advantageous to refrain from the use of such polymers as their biodegradability as not been fully examined yet.

[0053] According to the invention it is further preferred if the emulsion comprises less than 0.01% or 0% by weight of silicone oils and / or silicone derivatives, based on the total weight of the composition. Silicone derivatives are considered as those chemicals, which contain a [R1R2SiO]nsubunit, wherein R1and R2each is an alkyl group and n can be 1 or larger. Thus, it is preferred if the emulsion is characterized in that no silicone oils and / or silicone derivatives are contained. In some embodiments of the invention, it is preferred if in addition to the components of the invention one or more further emulsifiers are contained benefitting the long-term phase stability of the emulsion. Although in general all oil in water emulsifiers may be contained, some emulsifiers were found to be especially preferred. Accordingly, it was found that preferred emulsions are characterized in the at least glyceryl stearate is contained. For the case that glyceryl stearate is contained it is preferred if the total weight of glyceryl stearate is in the range from 0.05 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 1 .5% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. Further it is preferred if polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is contained as emulsifier. For the case that polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is contained it is preferred if the total weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range from 0.05 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5% by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 3.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0054] Further it is preferred if glyceryl stearate citrate is contained as emulsifier. For the case that glyceryl stearate citrate is contained it is preferred if the total weight of glyceryl stearate citrate is in the range from 0.05 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5% by weight and most preferably from 1 .5 to 3.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0055] According to the invention it is preferred if the emulsion comprises at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum.

[0056] It is advantageous if the emulsion comprises 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.10 to 0.4% by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] It is preferred if at least xanthan gum is contained. It is preferred if xanthan gum is contained in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.10 to 0.4% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Further preferred emulsions of the invention comprise hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. For the case that hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50 to 2.4% by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 1 .9% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Further, in some embodiments of the invention it is preferred if distarch phosphate is contained in the emulsion. For the case that distarch phosphate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of distarch phosphate is in the range from 0.1 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50 to 5.5% by weight and most preferably 1 .5 to 4.5% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Further it is preferred if the emulsion according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of that type are butylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1 ,2 hexanediol, 1 ,2 heptanediol, 1 ,2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.

[0061] It is preferred if those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 10% by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 9% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Further it is preferred if the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0063] For the case that phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0064] For the case that ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1 .2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0065] It is also advantageous according to the invention if further active ingredients are contained. These are advantageously selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1- methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. The active ingredients mentioned in the group are advantageously used in total proportions of up to 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Further it is preferred if water is contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 65.0% by weight to 80% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. Examples

[0067] The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0068] Table 1 and Table 2 show a selection of comparative experiments exploring the foaming properties of the example formulation when being applied. The examples Ex.4 and Ex. 13 are examples according to the invention. Ex.7 is a reference example showing the foaming properties of a state-of-the-art formulation still containing silicones and acrylate-based polymers. This formula sets the benchmark what might be achievable. Ex.2 shows the effect of the addition of glyceryl caprylate. The remaining examples use different oils highlighting that the limitation of the foaming can only be achieved by the examples according to the invention.

[0069] For the purpose of analyzing the foaming properties a two-step test proceeding was performed:

[0070] 1 . Screening test:

[0071] In order to evaluate the emulsions of the present invention in relation to the development of a foam and the leaving of a whitish residue on the skin a method was developed to analyze whitish residues on the skin using an image analyzer and an image analyze software (Imaged).

[0072] The following steps were conducted:

[0073] Set up instruments:

[0074] 1 . Prepare samples and fill them into a pipette.

[0075] 2. Set a metronome (96 beeps per minute).

[0076] 3. Prepare a stopwatch.

[0077] 4. Turn on the light box and adjust to white light.

[0078] 5. Prepare black artificial skin and reference cards

[0079] 6. Turn on the camera and set the camera.

[0080] Apply the sample on the artificial skin and take picture:

[0081] 1 . Apply 10OpL of the emulsion on the left third of the artificial skin. 2. Start the metronome.

[0082] 3. Start the stopwatch, spread the product on the artificial skin by moving 3 fingers right and left to the beat of the metronome for 30 sec.

[0083] 4. Take the picture immediately after the finish of application.

[0084] 5. Further take a picture of a standard white card.

[0085] Analyses the picture(s) using Imaged (software):

[0086] Result calculation:

[0087] Set the relative anti-whitish value of standard white area (2*10cm) as 0%;

[0088] Set the relative anti-whitish value of total black (L-value<50, mean gray value =255) as 100%.

[0089] Msampie' Mean gray value of test sample.

[0090] M2O- Mean gray value of 2x10cm standard white area.

[0091] A value of 100% means no whitish foam at all, whereas a value of 0% means prominent whitish foam is visible. The relative anti-whiteish (%) is called anti-foaming score.

[0092] 2. In a second step the formulations showing an anti-foaming score above 90% were analyzed by a sensory panel. The test design is outlined below:

[0093] The foaming properties of the formulations were evaluated by an expert panel which consisted of 13 members. The experts are selected based on the global standard design ASTM E1490-11 (Publication 1 September 2011 I ICS Code (Cosmetics. Toiletries): 71.100.70).

[0094] Whitening / foaming is evaluated separately on the upper side of the forearm (Swedish white skin). In this case the degree to which the product remains as an occlusive film (usually white) on the forearm is determined. For that purpose, 100 pL of the formulations are individually applied in a 10 cm straight line to the upper side of the forearm. Both ends of the 10cm are marked by a line with a pen. Then the formulation is spread using the fore- and middle finger with sharp strokes back and forth at 120 bpm in a straight line on the arm. The evaluation takes place at 20 strokes. The question to evaluate is how much skin is still visible. A score of 0 corresponds to no white foam visible on the skin, while a score of 100 means that all is covered in white foam and no skin is visible. The results are presented in the tables with the label: Anti-foaming sensory panel 20 strokes

[0095] This second test was used as confirmation. It has to be noted that by the test design no white residues correspond to an anti-foaming score of 100% in the first screening test, while in the panel test a score of 0 corresponds to no foaming.

[0096] It was surprisingly found that the formulations according to the invention allows for a significant reduction of foaming while applied. Formulations containing other oils or not containing glyceryl caprylate do not provide an effective reduction of the foam. In this way, it was surprisingly possible to get closer to the benchmark provided by silicone containing formulations, as shown in Ex. 7.

[0097] Tablel

[0098] Table 2

[0099] Table 3

[0100] Table 4

Claims

Claims1 . Cosmetic oil in water emulsion comprising a) glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and / or glyceryl caprylate / caprate, and b) at least one or more pentaerythritol ester of the following formula (I)wherein Ri, R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected- from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains with 5 to 13 C atoms, and / or-CH2-(CH2)n-COOH, wherein n is an integer in the range from 3 to 7.

2. Emulsion according to claim 1 characterized in that the total quantity of glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and / or glyceryl caprylate / caprate is in the range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.4 % by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

3. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of the esters according to formula I is in the range from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.4 to 6.0% by weight and most preferably 1 .9 to 5.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

4. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate is contained as ester b).

5. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate is contained and the total quantity of pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate is in the range from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1 .4 to 6.0%by weight and most preferably 1 .9 to 5.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

6. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that an oil phase of the emulsion sums up to a total quantity in the range from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 15% by weight and more preferably from 3.8 to 12.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

7. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion comprises at least one oil chosen from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated, and it is preferred if the total quantity of esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated, is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, still more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

8. Emulsion according to claim 7 characterized in that isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl cocoate and / or isopropyl palmitate are contained in the emulsion.

9. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that at least one fatty acid triglyceride is contained, and it is preferred if the total quantity of the fatty acid triglycerides is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 1 .0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1 .1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1 .2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

10. Emulsion according to claim 9 characterized in that capryl ic / capric triglyceride is contained.

11. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that coco- glycerides and / or hydrogenated coco-glycerides is contained, and it is preferred if the total quantity of coco-glycerides and / or hydrogenated coco-glycerides is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5% by weight, still more preferably 1.1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1.2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

12. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion comprises at least one neopentyl glycol ester, and it is preferred if the total quantity of the at least one neopentyl glycol ester is in the range from 0.1 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5% by weight, still more preferably 0.6 to 2.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.7 to 1.6% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

13. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion comprises less than 0.01% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid and / or methacrylic.

14. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion comprises less than 0.01% or 0% by weight of silicone oils and / or silicone derivatives, based on the total weight of the composition.

15. Emulsion according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion comprises at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Silicone antifoam compositions

    US5531929A

  • Encapsulated silicone antifoam compositions

    EP0339958A2