Cosmetic composition in the form of a compacted, impact-resistant powder
By using fillers, colored pigments and crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymers in cosmetic compositions, combined with specific adhesive ratios and process treatments, the shortcomings of existing cosmetic compositions in terms of impact strength are solved, and an efficient and environmentally friendly preparation process and good product performance are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202080054012.6
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-07-31
- Filing Date
- 2020-07-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-14
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-07-21
AI Technical Summary
The existing cosmetic compositions have shortcomings in impact strength, which leads to fragility of the powder and high energy consumption in the preparation process, making it difficult to implement on an industrial scale.
A compacted powder is formed by a composition comprising a filler, a colored pigment and a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer and processed by a specific binder ratio and process. The composition is powdery at ambient temperature and has improved impact resistance.
Good absorption and application transfer of cosmetic compositions are achieved, the surface smoothness is maintained, and the impact strength is improved, the powder is fragile problem is avoided, and the energy consumption in the preparation process is reduced.
Smart Images

Figure CN114650803B_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one filler, at least one colour pigment and at least one polymer of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type, said composition being in pulverulent form at ambient temperature.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for topical use in compacted form, comprising said pulverulent composition and at least one binder, exhibiting improved impact resistance.
[0003] The invention also relates to the use of such a compact cosmetic composition as a product for making up human skin, and to a method for making up human skin using such a compact composition.
[0004] Certain cosmetic compositions for topical use intended for making up the skin, such as, for example, foundations for the face, pressed powders for the face, eye shadows or blushers, are usually in the form of compacted powders or cast powders.
[0005] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "compacted powder" is understood to mean a composition consisting essentially of a mixture of powders comprising at least one filler, at least one pigment, at least one crosslinked polymer of anionic polyelectrolyte type, and at least one binder. Once formed, the mixture is shaped by compacting in a can.
[0006] These compacted powders are typically used by taking a small amount and then applying it to the skin with the fingers or using an applicator such as, for example, a brush or sponge.
[0007] A good quality compacted powder requires that it is easily absorbed, that it is easy to spread, that the resulting spread is uniform, and that it has a soft feel after being applied to the skin. More specifically, a good quality compacted powder must have a smooth, even surface and retain its properties over time. A good quality compacted powder must also have a sufficiently high impact strength to avoid crumbling and to retain its properties.
[0008] In order to improve the impact strength properties, designers of compacted powders intended for cosmetic skin application have developed solutions based on the optimization of specific binders.
[0009] For example, the international patent application published under number WO 9 / 17660 A1 describes the use of a mixture of at least one silicone oil, at least one silicone wax and at least one silicone resin, constituting a fatty binder intended to be mixed with solid particulates in order to subsequently obtain a compacted powder. However, the amount of binder to be used proves to be significant, and the surface appearance of the compacted powder then becomes oily and less efficient to transfer to the fingers or applicator before application.
[0010] The European patent application published under the number EP 0 171 979 A2 describes a process for preparing a composition in the form of a compacted, storage-stable, impact-resistant powder characterized by a flat and smooth surface. The process forming the subject of European patent application EP 0 717 979 A2 comprises a step of dispersing the pulverulent phase in a preformed oil-in-water emulsion, followed by a step of casting the obtained dispersion into a mould and then a step of drying the previously obtained dispersion by freeze drying. However, such a process has the disadvantage of being difficult to implement on an industrial scale, since it involves expensive equipment that consumes a lot of energy.
[0011] The US patent application published under number US 2005 / 0186235 A1 describes a cosmetic composition in the form of a compacted powder comprising a pulverulent phase, a solid fatty phase and requiring for its preparation a step of melting the solid fatty phase (or wax) which proves to be very energy-intensive.
[0012] The US patent application published under number US 2016 / 167040 A1 describes a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer, whose polymer backbone consists of an ammonium salt of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (ATBS) crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate (HEA), stearyl methacrylate (SMA) and lauryl methacrylate (LAUMA) (ATBS / HEA / SMA / LAUMA: 88.1 / 9.9 / 1.5 / 0.5; polyelectrolyte 1). The US patent application published under number US 2016 / 167040 A1 also describes a cosmetic composition of a compacted powder (Example 52) comprising 2% by mass of polyelectrolyte 1.
[0013] The French patent application published under number FR 2980108 A1 describes a make-up composition in the form of a compact, impact-resistant powder comprising a pulverulent phase and a liquid phase, but without crosslinked polymers of the anionic polyelectrolyte type.
[0014] In order to overcome these drawbacks, the inventors have sought to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a compacted, impact-resistant powder, characterized by good transfer qualities for facilitating absorption and application to the skin, and prepared according to a process that does not require a high input of energy.
[0015] The subject of the present invention is therefore a pulverulent composition (C1) in powder form comprising, per 100% of its mass:
[0016] i) from 84.3% to 95.8% by mass, preferably from 86.9% to 95.2% by mass, and even more preferentially from 89.5% to 94.65% by mass of at least one filler (FA)
[0017] ii) from 4 to 15% by mass, preferably from 4.5 to 12.5% by mass, and even more preferentially from 5 to 10% by mass of at least one colored pigment (CP)
[0018] iii) from 0.2% to 0.7% by mass, preferably from 0.3% to 0.6% by mass, and even more preferentially from 0.35% to 0.5% by mass of at least one crosslinked polymer of anionic polyelectrolyte type (P), derived from the polymerization of partially or completely salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid with at least one neutral monomer of an element chosen from the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, N,N-dialkylacrylamide in which each alkyl group contains between one and four carbon atoms, in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent, and at least one monomer of formula (I):
[0019] [Chemical formula 1]
[0020]
[0021] wherein R represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from eight to twenty carbon atoms, and n represents a number greater than or equal to zero and less than or equal to twenty.
[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean a solid chemical substance that is immiscible with water and dispersed in a matrix. Fillers are introduced into a mixture, in this case a make-up composition, in order to improve its cost as well as certain properties, such as, for example, coverage on the skin or density of a powdered composition.
[0023] According to a more specific aspect, the powdery composition (C1) comprises at least 90% by volume of particles having a diameter less than or equal to 200 microns and more particularly less than or equal to 100 microns. In the context of the present invention, this means that the powdery composition C1 is comparable to a powder of particles comparable to spheres having a diameter less than or equal to 200 microns and more particularly less than or equal to 100 microns. It should be noted that particles of this size make it possible to obtain better cohesion of the compacted powder subsequently obtained.
[0024] This parameter is determined with the aid of a laser diffraction analyzer, such as the Malvern Mastersize TM2000 laser particle size analyzer, which is equipped with a dispersion device, such as MS1-Small Volume Sample Dispersion TM type of dispersion device and connected to a calculation software, which makes it possible to obtain a diffraction pattern consisting of the superposition of the diffraction images of particles of each size present in the analyzed powder.
[0025] When analyzing the data so collected, the initial size distribution is estimated and a theoretical diffraction pattern is calculated and then compared with the actual data recorded. The difference between the estimated and actual data is then minimized using the least squares method. The software then calculates the volume distribution as the basic result and derives any additional information from this result assuming that the particles have a spherical shape.
[0026] This determination method is particularly well suited to the characterization of powders whose constituent particles are comparable to spheres having a diameter between 3000 micrometers and 0.1 micrometers, and to dry powders. For particle sizes greater than 10 micrometers, the use of this type of method has shown good results in particular [P. Bowen, "Particle Size Distribution Measurement from Millimeters to Nanometers and from Rods to Platelets"; J. Dispersion Science and Technology, 23(5), pp. 631-662 (2002)].
[0027] In the definition of pulverulent composition (C1), the term "polymer (P) of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type" means a non-linear crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte in the form of a three-dimensional network which is insoluble in water but swells in water and thus leads to the production of a chemical gel.
[0028] In the definition of powdered composition (C1), the term "partially salified or fully salified" means that the acid function of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid is partially or fully salified, usually in the form of an alkali metal salt, such as a sodium salt or a potassium salt, or in the form of an ammonium salt.
[0029] In the pulverulent composition (C1) as defined above and as subject of the invention, the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type used generally contains, per 100 mol%, between 65 and 95 mol%, more particularly between 65 and 90 mol%, and even more particularly between 68 and 95 mol%, and even more particularly between 70 and 95 mol%, and even more particularly between 70 and 90 mol%, of monomer units derived from partially or completely salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid.
[0030] In the pulverulent composition (C1) as defined above and as subject of the present invention, the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type used generally contains, per 100 mol%, between 4.8 and 25 mol%, more particularly between 4.8 and 20 mol% and even more particularly between 5 and 20 mol% of monomer units of at least one neutral monomer chosen from the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, N,N-dialkylacrylamides in which each alkyl group contains between one and four carbon atoms.
[0031] According to a particular aspect, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type used in the pulverulent composition (C1) that is the subject of the invention, the neutral monomer chosen from N,N-dialkylacrylamides in which each alkyl group contains between one and four carbon atoms is chosen from N,N-dimethylacrylamide, N,N-diethylacrylamide and N,N-dipropylacrylamide.
[0032] In the pulverulent composition (C1) as defined above and as subject of the invention, the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type used generally contains between 0.1 and 10 mol%, more particularly between 0.1 and 5 mol% and even more particularly between 0.1 and 4.0 mol% per 100 mol% of monomer units of at least one monomer of formula (I).
[0033] In formula (I) of the monomers present in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type used in the pulverulent composition (C1) that is the subject of the invention, “linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to twenty carbon atoms” means more particularly, for R:
[0034] - ora radical derived from a linear primary alcohol, for example octyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl;
[0035] - or A radical derived from Guerbet alcohols, which are branched 1-alkanols corresponding to the general formula:
[0036] CH3-(CH2) p -CH[CH3-(CH2) p-2 ]-CH2OH,
[0037] wherein p represents an integer between 2 and 9, for example 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl or 2-octyldodecyl;
[0038] - or A radical derived from an isoalkanol corresponding to the following general formula:
[0039] CH3-CH(CH3)-(CH2) m -CH2OH,
[0040] wherein m represents an integer between 2 and 16, for example 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl or 16-methylheptadecyl, or According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterised in that the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type comprises per 100 mol %:
[0041] - from 65 to 95 mol %, preferably from 70 to 95 mol %, of monomer units derived from partially or completely salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid;
[0042] - from 4.8 mol % to 25 mol %, preferably from 4.8 mol % to 20 mol % of monomer units derived from neutral monomers selected from the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, N,N-dialkylacrylamides wherein each alkyl group contains between one and four carbon atoms;
[0043] - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol %, preferably from 0.5 mol % to 5 mol %, and more preferentially from 0.5 mol % to 4 mol % of monomer units derived from monomers of formula (I) as defined above,
[0044] - from 0.1 mol% to 5 mol%, preferably from 0.5 mol% to 5 mol% and more preferentially from 0.5 mol% to 3 mol% of monomer units derived from at least one diolefinic or polyolefinic crosslinking monomer.
[0045] According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the polymer (P) of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type, the neutral monomer is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate or N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
[0046] According to a specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in said polymer (P) of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type and for said monomer of formula (I) as defined above, R represents an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0047] According to another specific aspect, the subject of the present invention is a powdery composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, R represents n-dodecyl or isododecyl or n-tetradecyl or n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl, and n represents an integer between 3 and 20.
[0048] According to another specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, the monomer of formula (I) as defined above is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), which corresponds to formula (I) in which n is equal to four and R represents an n-dodecyl group.
[0049] According to another specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, the monomer of formula (I) as defined above is twenty ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate of formula (I4), which corresponds to formula (I) in which n is equal to twenty and R represents n-octadecyl.
[0050] According to another specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a powdery composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, R represents n-dodecyl or isododecyl or n-tetradecyl or n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl, and n is equal to zero.
[0051] According to another specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a powdery composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, the monomer of formula (I) as defined above is lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-dodecyl and / or isododecyl and in which n is equal to zero.
[0052] According to another specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a powdery composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, the monomer of formula (I) as defined above is stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-octadecyl and n is equal to zero.
[0053] According to a more specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, the monomer of formula (I) is chosen from elements of the group consisting of: tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), corresponding to formula (I) in which R represents n-dodecyl and in which n is equal to four, lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2), corresponding to formula (I) in which R represents n-dodecyl and in which n is equal to zero, isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2), corresponding to formula (I) in which R represents isododecyl and in which n is equal to zero, and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3), corresponding to formula (I) in which R represents n-octadecyl and in which n is equal to zero.
[0054] According to a specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that, in the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, the diolefinic or polyolefinic crosslinking monomer is chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebis(acrylamide), or a mixture of these compounds.
[0055] The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) used in the powdery composition (C1) as described above may also contain various additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents or chain limiters.
[0056] The term "transfer agent" or "chain limiter" means a compound which, when present during the free radical polymerization reaction for preparing the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P), produces a termination reaction, such as a disproportionation or recombination reaction, leading to the formation of polymer chains of shorter length and therefore lower molecular weight. As transfer agents or chain limiters, mention may be made of mercaptans such as dodecyl mercaptan, halides such as carbon tetrachloride, short-chain alcohols such as ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol or isobutanol, and sodium hypophosphite having the chemical formula NaPO2H2.
[0057] According to a specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type is chosen from a polymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of an ammonium salt, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, or from a polymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of an ammonium salt, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and twenty-ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate.
[0058] According to an even more specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type is a polymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium salt, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1).
[0059] According to an even more specific aspect, a subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterised in that the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type comprises, per 100 mol %:
[0060] - from 65 to 95 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid salified in the form of the ammonium salt;
[0061] - from 4.8 mol % to 25 mol % of monomer units derived from N,N-dimethylacrylamide,
[0062] - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1),
[0063] - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
[0064] According to an even more specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type is a polymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium salt, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2) or isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2) and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3) in a molar ratio (I2) / (I3) or (I'2) / (I3) greater than or equal to 1 / 10 and less than or equal to 10 / 1, and crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
[0065] According to an even more specific aspect, a subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterised in that the crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type comprises, per 100 mol %:
[0066] - from 70 mol % to 95 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid salified in the form of the sodium salt;
[0067] - from 4.8 mol % to 20 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate,
[0068] - from 0.1 mol% to 5 mol% of monomer units derived from lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2) or isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2) and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3) in a molar ratio of (I2) / (I3) or (I'2) / (I3) greater than or equal to 1 / 6 and less than or equal to 6 / 1,
[0069] - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
[0070] The crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type can be obtained by implementing a process comprising:
[0071] - Step a) During this step, all monomers, an ammoniacal neutralizing agent for 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, a crosslinking agent and, if necessary or if desired, other additives are mixed in an organic solvent, preferably tert-butyl alcohol;
[0072] - Step b) During this step, the polymerization reaction is initiated by introducing a free radical initiator into Step a)to initiate the polymerization in the dispersion prepared in the step of polymerization and then continue until the polymerization is complete;
[0073] -Optionally Step c): exchanging the ammonium ions present for sodium or potassium ions;
[0074] - Step d) : Precipitated in Step b) , optionally Step c) The polymer formed at the end;
[0075] -Optionally Step e) : Dry in Step d) At the end of the precipitation obtained.
[0076] As in the method defined above Step a) The ammonia-containing neutralizing agent used in the present invention includes, for example, ammonia or ammonium bicarbonate.
[0077] In the method defined above Step b) In the polymerization reaction, the polymerization reaction is initiated at a temperature generally equal to or greater than 50° C. using a free radical initiator which generates free radicals by homolytic cleavage, such as dilauroyl peroxide, azobis(isobutyronitrile) or azo derivatives.
[0078] According to another embodiment of the method as defined above, the polymerization reaction is initiated by a redox couple.
[0079] In the method defined above Step c) In the above, the exchange of ammonium cations with sodium cations or with potassium cations is optionally carried out with sodium tert-butoxide or potassium tert-butoxide.
[0080] In the method defined above Step d) In the process, the precipitation of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) is carried out by evaporating the solvent or by filtering the precipitate.
[0081] The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) thus obtained is then introduced into a mill, such as, for example, a knife mill, in the presence of at least one colour pigment and at least one filler, in order to obtain a mixture of ground powders.
[0082] This pulverulent mixture is introduced into a metal can in the presence of at least one binder and is then subjected to a compacting step by a machine at a suitable pressure.
[0083] According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the filler (FA) is chosen from elements of the group consisting of fillers of inorganic lamellar type, fillers of organic lamellar type, fillers of inorganic spherical type and fillers of organic spherical type.
[0084] Each type of filler enables to impart particular and different qualities to the composition (C1) according to the invention. Thus, for example, fillers of inorganic lamellar type generally provide softness, fillers of inorganic spherical type generally provide good disintegration, and organic spherical fillers generally have a structuring effect and provide softness.
[0085] According to a specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the filler (FA) is an inorganic lamellar type filler selected from the group consisting of: talc or hydrated magnesium silicate; mica or aluminosilicates, such as, for example, muscovite, pearl mica, vanadium mica, lithium mica, biotite; clay, such as, for example, sericite; kaolin or hydrated aluminum silicate; and boron nitride.
[0086] According to a particular aspect, a subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterised in that the filler (FA) is an organic lamellar type filler of an element chosen from the group consisting of tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders and lauroyl lysine.
[0087] According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the filler (FA) is an inorganic spherical type filler chosen from elements of the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium oxide, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, non-porous spherical silica, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres with open porosity, hollow silica microspheres, glass microcapsules, and ceramic microcapsules.
[0088] According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the filler (FA) is a filler of organic spherical type chosen from the elements of the group consisting of: metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; unexpanded synthetic polymer powders, such as, for example, polyethylene powder, polyester powders, such as, for example, polyethylene isophthalate powder or polyethylene terephthalate powder, polyamide powder; crosslinked or uncrosslinked synthetic polymer powders, such as, for example, polyacrylic acid powder, polymethacrylic acid powder, powder of polystyrene crosslinked with divinylbenzene, silicone resin powder; corn starch, wheat starch, tapioca starch or rice starch powder; acrylic polymer microspheres, polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, and styrene-divinylbenzene copolymer microspheres.
[0089] According to a more specific aspect, the subject of the present invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the filler (FA) is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of:
[0090] - an inorganic lamellar filler of the lamellar type chosen from the group consisting of: talc or hydrated magnesium silicate; micas or aluminosilicates such as, for example, muscovite, pearlite, vanadium mica, lepidolite, biotite; clays such as, for example, sericite; kaolin or hydrated aluminum silicate; and boron nitride,
[0091] - organic lamellar type fillers such as, for example, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder and lauroyl lysine,
[0092] - an inorganic spherical type filler selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium oxide, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, nonporous spherical silica, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres with open porosity, hollow silica microspheres, glass microcapsules, and ceramic microcapsules,
[0093] - organic spherical type fillers, which are chosen from elements of the group consisting of: metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; unexpanded synthetic polymer powders, such as, for example, polyethylene powder, polyester powders, such as, for example, polyethylene isophthalate powder or polyethylene terephthalate powder, polyamide powder; crosslinked or uncrosslinked synthetic polymer powders, such as, for example, polyacrylic acid powder, polymethacrylic acid powder, powder of polystyrene crosslinked with divinylbenzene, silicone resin powder; corn starch, wheat starch, tapioca starch or rice starch powder; acrylic polymer microspheres, polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, and styrene-divinylbenzene copolymer microspheres.
[0094] According to a particular aspect, a subject of the present invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the colored pigment (CP) is chosen from elements of the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.
[0095] According to a specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the colored pigment (CP) is an inorganic pigment chosen from elements of the group consisting of: titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; optionally hydrated chromium oxide; ferric blue.
[0096] According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the colored pigment (CP) is an organic pigment chosen from the elements of the group consisting of: D&C red pigments, D&C orange pigments, D&C yellow pigments, carbon black, cochineal-based lakes.
[0097] According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the colored pigment (CP) is a pearlescent pigment selected from the group consisting of white pearlescent pigments such as, for example, titanium oxide-coated mica with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica with organic pigments, pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0098] According to a more specific aspect, the subject of the present invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that the colored pigment (CP) is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of:
[0099] - inorganic pigments, selected from the group consisting of: titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; optionally hydrated chromium oxide; iron blue,
[0100] - colored pigments selected from the group consisting of: D&C red pigments, D&C orange pigments, D&C yellow pigments, carbon black, cochineal-based lakes,
[0101] Pearlescent pigments selected from the group consisting of white pearlescent pigments such as, for example, titanium oxide-coated mica with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica with organic pigments, pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0102] According to a more specific aspect, the subject of the invention is a pulverulent composition (C1) as described above, characterized in that it contains, per 100% of its mass, a content of water less than or equal to 2% by mass, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by mass and even more preferentially less than or equal to 1% by mass.
[0103] According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is a composition (F) for topical use comprising, per 100% of its mass:
[0104] - from 90 to 97% by mass, preferably from 92.5 to 96.5% by mass and even more preferentially from 94 to 96% by mass of at least one pulverulent composition (C1) as defined above,
[0105] - from 3 to 10% by mass, preferably from 3.5 to 7.5% by mass and even more particularly from 4 to 6% by mass of at least one fatty binder (BA) that is liquid at 20°C.
[0106] The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of composition (F) means that the composition for topical use is used by application to the body and facial skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes, whether this is direct application in the case of cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical formulations, or indirect application, for example in the case of body hygiene products in the form of textiles or paper wipes or hygiene products intended to come into contact with the skin or mucous membranes.
[0107] In the context of the present invention, the term "fat binder" means a fat, lipophilic chemical composition or substance whose function is to aggregate particles in powder or granular form into a solid mass in order to reduce the risk of their breaking under impact and ensure their easy absorption.
[0108] According to a particular aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition for topical use (F) as described above, characterized in that the fatty binder (BA) is chosen from the group consisting of:
[0109] i) a composition comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one silicone wax and at least one silicone resin and optionally at least one silicone gum and at least one phenyl dimethicone, as defined in the international patent application published under number WO 93 / 17660 A1,
[0110] ii) branched alkanes which are liquid at 20° C., such as, for example, isododecane or 2,2,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane (CAS No. 31807-55-3 / 93685-81-5 / 13475-82-6), isohexadecane CAS=(93685-80-4) or 2,2,4,4,6,8,8-heptamethylnonane (CAS=4390-04-9),
[0111] iii) mineral oils which are liquid at 20° C. and atmospheric pressure, such as, for example, liquid paraffin, unbranched alkanes such as, for example, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane,
[0112] iv) Oils of vegetable origin based on monoglycerides and / or diglycerides and / or triglycerides, which means chemical substances containing monoglycerides of formula (A1) and / or of formula (A'1), and / or diglycerides of formula (A2) and / or of formula (A'2), and / or triglycerides of formula (A3), for the preparation of which the raw materials required are plants:
[0113] CH3-(CH2) x1 -C(O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OH(A1)
[0114] HO-CH2-CH[OC(O)-(CH2) x2 -CH3]-CH2-OH(A'1)
[0115] CH3-(CH2) x3 -C(O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OC(O)-(CH2) x4 -CH3(A2)
[0116] CH3-(CH2) x5 -C(O)-O-CH2-CH[OC(O)-(CH2) x6 -CH3]-CH2-OH(A'2)
[0117] CH3-(CH2) x7 -C(O)-O-CH2-CH[OC(O)-(CH2) x8 -CH3]-CH2-OC(O)-(CH2) x9 -CH3(A3)
[0118] Wherein x1, x2, x3, x4, x5, x6, x7, x8 and x9 may be the same or different, and represent an integer between 7 and 23.
[0119] Among the oils of vegetable origin based on mono- and / or di- and / or triglycerides as defined above, mention may be made, for example, of sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, woad oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kohlrabi oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea oil, almond oil, calophyllum oil, sisymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, hemp oil, oils derived from flowers, oils derived from vegetables, triglycerides obtained by esterification reaction between fatty acids of vegetable origin and glycerol, such as, for example, triisostearin, the product manufactured by Stéarinerie Dubois under the name DUB Caprylic / capric triglyceride sold by MCT, triglyceride obtained by esterification reaction between fatty acids comprising seven carbon atoms and glycerol sold under the name DUB THG by Dibosterlin, triglyceride obtained by esterification reaction between fatty acids comprising 22 carbon atoms and glycerol sold under the name Syncrowax HRC by Croda.
[0120] v) fatty esters which are liquid at 20° C., such as, for example, isostearyl neopentanoate, dioctyl caprate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl adipate,
[0121] vi) an isoalkanol having the formula (II):
[0122] (CH3)(CH3)CH-(CH2)r-CH2-OH(II),
[0123] In the formula (II), r represents an integer between 8 and 20, for example, isodecyl, isoundecyl, isododecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl, isopentadecyl,
[0124] Isohexadecyl, isopentadecyl, isooctadecyl, isonadecyl, isoeicosyl or isodocosyl;
[0125] vii) Guerbet alcohols of formula (III):
[0126] CH(CsH2s +1 )(C t H 2t+1 )-CH2-OH (III)
[0127] In the formula (III), t is an integer between 6 and 18, s is an integer between 4 and 18, and the sum of s+t is greater than or equal to 10 and less than or equal to 22, for example, 2-butyloctyl, 2-butyldecyl, 2-hexyloctyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-decyltetradecyl, 2-dodecylhexadecyl or 2-tetradecyloctadecyl,
[0128] viii) fatty alcohols which are liquid at 20° C., such as, for example, oleyl alcohol or (Z)-octadeca-9-en-1-ol, linoleyl alcohol or cis-cis-9,12-octadecadien-1-ol, linoleyl alcohol or (9Z,12Z,15Z)-9,12,15-octadecatriene-1-ol,
[0129] ix) Silicone derivatives, such as, for example, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, vinyl dimethicone, caprylyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone.
[0130] According to a specific aspect, the fatty binder (BA) that is liquid at 20°C is selected from the group consisting of: dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, vinyl dimethicone, caprylyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, isohexadecane, isododecane, liquid paraffin, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, capric / caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl caprate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol.
[0131] According to a more specific aspect, the fatty binder is selected from the group consisting of castor oil, octyldodecanol, dimethicone, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, and isopropyl myristate.
[0132] The composition (F) for topical use which is subject of the invention is in particular in the form of blush, eye shadow, powder for making up the face, (perfumed and / or deodorizing) body powder, including powders for the feet and hands.
[0133] The composition (F) for topical use which is in the form of a compacted powder and is the subject of the present invention may contain additives which are customary in the field, in particular of cosmetics, dermocosmetics, medicaments or dermopharmaceuticals, preparations for topical use and which are chosen from antimicrobial agents, astringents, sunscreens, healing agents, free radical scavengers, vitamins; demulcents, emollients, humectants (glycerol, sorbitol, etc.), skin whitening agents, fragrances, thickeners.
[0134] As examples of deodorants that may be present in the composition (F) for topical use that is the subject of the invention, mention may be made of alkali metal silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride or zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salt or cetylpyridinium salt; glycerol derivatives such as glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate or polyglyceryl caprate; 1,2-decanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metal zeolites; Triclosan TM ; hydrated aluminum bromide, hydrated aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, hydrated aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, hydrated aluminum zirconium trichloride, hydrated aluminum zirconium tetrachloride, hydrated aluminum zirconium pentachloride, hydrated aluminum zirconium octachloride, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, or a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and a glycol, such as a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum dichloride hydrate and propylene glycol, a complex of hydroxyaluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol, a complex of aluminum dichloride hydrate and polyethylene glycol, or a complex of hydroxyaluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol.
[0135] Among the agents for protection against the sun's ultraviolet rays that may be included in the compositions (F) for topical use that are subject of the invention, mention may be made of pigments, organic sunscreens and inorganic sunscreens.
[0136] As pigments used as agents for protection against solar ultraviolet rays which may be included in the composition (F) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, there are, for example, titanium dioxide, brown iron oxides, yellow iron oxides, black iron oxides or red iron oxides, or white or colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica.
[0137] As organic sunscreens used as agents for protection against the sun's ultraviolet rays that may be included in the composition (F) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, there are, for example:
[0138] - those of the family of benzoic acid derivatives, such as para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), in particular the monoglyceride of PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-propoxy PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-diethoxy PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-dimethyl PABA, the methyl ester of N,N-dimethyl PABA, the butyl ester of N,N-dimethyl PABA;
[0139] - those of the family of anthranilic acid derivatives, such as trimethylcyclohexyl N-acetyl anthranilate;
[0140] - those of the family of salicylic acid derivatives, such as amyl salicylate, trimethylol salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropylphenyl salicylate;
[0141] - those of the family of cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl 4-isopropylcinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropylcinnamate, propyl p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl p-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate), 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, cyclohexyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, or di(p-methoxycinnamic acid)mono(2-ethylhexanoyl)glyceryl ester;
[0142] - those of the family of benzophenone derivatives, such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-(n-octyloxy)benzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-camphor, 3-benzylidene-d,l-camphor, camphor benzalkonium methylsulfate; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate;
[0143] -sulfonic acid derivatives, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives, such as hydroxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbonyl(carbo)-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyldiimino)bis-(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-tert-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzoazines dibenzazine; di-p-methoxybenzoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4"-tert-butylbenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornene)-3-pentan-2-one; 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate; the family of diphenylacrylate derivatives, such as 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-acrylate, or ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-acrylate;
[0144] - Those of the polysiloxane family, such as benzalsiloxane malonate.
[0145] As inorganic sunscreens used as agents for protection against solar ultraviolet rays that can be included in the composition (F) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, there are, for example, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide or black iron oxide, and chromium oxide. These inorganic sunscreens may or may not be micronized, may or may not be subjected to surface treatment, and may optionally be in the form of aqueous or oily predispersions.
[0146] Among the antioxidants that may be included in the composition for topical use (F) that is the subject of the invention, mention may be made of EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as Dissolvine GL 47S (INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate).
[0147] Among the active ingredients that may be included in the composition (F) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of:
[0148] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (e.g. retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (e.g. ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (e.g. tocopheryl acetate), vitamin B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a soothing effect, in particular Sepicalm TM S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds that exhibit moisturizing effects, such as urea, hydroxyurea, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, glyceryl polyglucoside, diglyceryl polyglucoside, and xylityl polyglucoside (trade name Aquaxyl TM Plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as grape extract, pine extract, wine extract or olive extract; compounds showing anti-obesity or lipolytic effects, such as caffeine or its derivatives, Adiposlim TM 、Adipoless TM or fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as Matrixil TM ; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total hydrolysates of proteins; soy extracts, such as Raffermine TM ; Wheat extracts, such as Tensine TM or Gliadine TM ; plant extracts, such as tannin-rich plant extracts, isoflavone-rich plant extracts or terpene-rich plant extracts; extracts of freshwater algae or seaweed; marine plant extracts; marine extracts, typically coral; essential wax; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing antimicrobial or purifying effects, such as Lipacide TM C8G、Lipacide TM UG, Sepicontrol TM A5, Octopirox TM or Sensiva TM SC50; Compounds that display stimulatory or stimulating properties, such as Physiogenyl TM , or panthenol and its derivatives such as Sepicap TM MP; Anti-aging active ingredients such as Sepilift TM DPHP、Lipacide TMPVB, Sepivinol TM , Sepivita TM , Manoliva TM 、Phyto-Age TM 、Timecode TM or Survicode TM ; anti-photoaging active ingredients; active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction; active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components, such as collagen, elastin or glycosaminoglycans; active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cell communication, such as cytokines, or on physical cell communication, such as integrins; active ingredients that produce a "warming" sensation on the skin, such as skin microcirculation activators (such as niacin derivatives) or products that produce a "cooling" sensation on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives); active ingredients that improve skin microcirculation, such as venotonics; drainage active ingredients; active ingredients with a decongestive purpose, such as ginkgo, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, butcher's broom, centella asiatica, rockweed, rosemary or willow; agents for tanning or darkening the skin, such as, for example, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin, plant extracts, such as, for example, extracts of rosewoods of the genera Pterocarpus and Baphia, for example Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida, as described in European Patent Application EP 0 971 683; agents known for their effect of promoting and / or accelerating the tanning or darkening of human skin and / or for their effect of pigmenting human skin, such as, for example, carotenoids (and more particularly β-carotene and γ-carotene), the product sold by the company Provital under the trade name Carros Oil (INCI name: Daucus carota, Helianthus annuus oil), which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K; tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect in accelerating the tanning of human skin in combination with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, such as, for example, the product sold by the company Provital under the trade name "SunTanAccelerator TM” which contains tyrosine and riboflavin (vitamin B); a complex of tyrosine and tyrosinase sold under the trade name “Zymo Tan Complex” by Zymo Line; and MelanoBronze sold under the trade name by Mibelle. TM (INCI name: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex agnus-castus)), which contains acetyl tyrosine; the product sold by the company Unipex under the trade name Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002 (INCI name: Butylene Glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein and Adenosine Triphosphate); the product sold by the company Sederma under the trade name "Try-Excell TM ” (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Extract (Seed Oil and Oleic Acid) containing an extract of Cucurbita Pepo (or Luffa Oil); marketed under the trade name “Actibronze TM ” (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein with acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate); sold by Synerga under the brand name Tyrostan TM (INCI name: Potassium Caproyl Tyrosinate); the product sold under the brand name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Oleate, Caproyl Tyrosine) by Synerga; the product sold under the brand name InstaBronze by Alban Muller TM products sold under the brand name Tyrosilane (INCI name: Methylsilanol and Acetyl Tyrosine) by Exsymol; peptides known for their melanogenesis-activating effect, such as, for example, the product sold under the brand name Bronzing SF Peptide Powder (INCI name: Glucan and Octapeptide-5) by Infinitec Activos, the product sold under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: Glycerin and Water and Glucan and Acetyl Hexapeptide-1), which contains Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 known for its α-MSH agonist effect, the product sold under the brand name Melatimes Solutions by Lipotec TM (INCI name: Butylene glycol, palmitoyl tripeptide-40), sugars and sugar derivatives, such as those sold under the brand name Tanositol TM(INCI name: Inositol), sold by Codif International under the trade name Thalitan TM (or Phycosaccharide TM A product sold by Alban Muller AG (INCI name: Water and hydrolyzed alginate (Laminaria digitata) and magnesium and manganese sulfates) containing oligosaccharides of marine origin (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions) under the trade name Melactiva TM (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna pruriens seed extract), rich in flavonoid compounds, such as the product sold by Silab under the brand name "Biotanning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Citrus Aurantiumdulcis Fruit Extract) and known to be rich in citric flavonoids (hesperidins).
[0149] Among the texturizing agents that may be included in the composition for topical use (F) that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of lauroyl lysine (produced by Ajinomoto under the name Aminohope TM LL), octenyl succinate starch (sold by National Starch under the name Dryflo TM sold), myristyl polyglucoside (sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov TM 14 sold), cellulose fibers, cotton fibers or chitosan fibers.
[0150] Among the aromatic or flavoring substances that may be included in the composition for topical use (F) that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of:
[0151] - extracts from different parts of the plant: flowers, leaves, stems or wood, bark or wood moss, fruits or seeds, roots,
[0152] - Extracts of flowers such as rose, jasmine, tuberose, champaca, frangipani, ylang-ylang, lotus, mimosa, carnation, osmanthus, acacia, sweet orange, bitter orange or neroli, daffodil, lavender, gardenia,
[0153] - extracts of leaves, mosses, barks, resins or buds, such as blackcurrant buds, oak moss, beech moss, lichens, acacia leaves, basil leaves, valerian leaves, gentian leaves, violet leaves, geranium leaves, labdanum leaves, rosemary leaves, patchouli leaves, verbena leaves, cassia bark, quince bark, cassia bark, calissa bark, sandalwood, cedarwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch bark, guaiac wood, Peruvian balsam, tolu balsam, benzoin resin, myrrh, labdanum resin, elemi resin, frankincense resin, red myrrh, Indian myrrh, pine or spruce or fir needles and branches,
[0154] - Extracts of herbs or grasses such as tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme,
[0155] -fruit or seed extracts such as tonka beans, vanilla pods, cardamom, coriander, star anise, bitter almonds, cumin, cloves, juniper berries, citrus fruits such as lemon, orange (including sweet lemon and bergamot), tangerine,
[0156] - extracts of roots such as angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, calamus, cactus, or vetiver root,
[0157] - Aromatic extracts, absolutes, alcoholates and essential oils.
[0158] The term "essential oil" is understood to mean an aromatic product of generally complex composition obtained from botanically defined plant raw materials according to cosmetic regulations. The processes for obtaining essential oils are described in standard ISO 9235, and these essential oils may possibly have undergone appropriate subsequent treatments, such as being deterpenized, desesquiterpenized, or distilled.
[0159] As essential oils that can be combined with the composition for topical use (F) that is the subject of the invention, mention may be made of, for example, yarrow essential oil, Acorus calamus essential oil, garlic essential oil, celery essential oil, amyris essential oil, dill essential oil, fennel essential oil, angelica essential oil, tea tree essential oil, basil essential oil, Bay Saint Thomas essential oil, benzoin essential oil, bergamot essential oil, guaiac wood essential oil, camphor essential oil, rosewood essential oil, sandalwood essential oil, Siamese wood essential oil, black birch essential oil, chamomile essential oil, camphor essential oil, cinnamon essential oil, cardamom essential oil, carrot essential oil, caraway essential oil, cedar essential oil, celery essential oil, sea fennel essential oil, rock rose essential oil, lemon essential oil, citronella essential oil, clementine essential oil, Thai lemon essential oil, copaiba essential oil, coriander essential oil, cedarwood essential oil, cumin essential oil, turmeric essential oil, cypress essential oil, frankincense essential oil, spruce essential oil, tarragon essential oil, fennel essential oil, hollyhock leaf essential oil, galbanum essential oil, wintergreen essential oil, juniper essential oil, geranium essential oil, ginger essential oil, clove or clove leaf essential oil, helichrysum essential oil, hyssop essential oil, iary essential oil, elecampane essential oil, kataf essential oil, fennel essential oil, kunzea essential oil, lavender essential oil, lavandula angustifolia essential oil, citrus essential oil, niaouli essential oil, peppermint essential oil, orange essential oil, grapefruit essential oil, rosemary essential oil, thyme essential oil, ylang ylang essential oil, ravensa leaf essential oil, clary sage essential oil, red sandalwood essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, palmarosa essential oil, St. John's wort essential oil, jasmine essential oil, chamomile essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, pine essential oil, ginger essential oil, parsley essential oil, wormwood essential oil, hemp essential oil, hops essential oil, or wild thyme essential oil.
[0160] Among the animal "aromatic or flavoring substances" that can be combined with the composition (F) for topical use that is the subject of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of musk, castoreum, civet, ambergris, beeswax absolute and hyrax. These substances can also be reconstituted by synthesis.
[0161] Among the synthetic "aromatic or flavouring substances" that may be combined with the composition for topical use (F) that is the subject of the invention, mention may be made for example of:
[0162] a) terpene hydrocarbons (monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes), such as myrcene (α-myrcene or β-myrcene, and α-Myrcene), limonene, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, camphene, cadinene, cedrene, farnesene, caryophyllene, matricariacene, 1,1-dimethoxy-2,2,5-trimethyl-4-hexene, curcumene, critrenene, cedrene, limonene, p-cymene, rose oxide, tetranorlabdane oxide sold under the name Ambrox by Firmenich, terpinene and terpinolene, vetiverene,
[0163] b) Esters such as benzyl acetate, bornyl acetate, citronellyl acetate, cedryl acetate, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, dimethylbenzyl acetate, ethyl acetate, farnesyl acetate, fenchyl acetate, hexyl acetate, geranyl acetate, isobutyl acetate, isononyl acetate, isoamyl acetate, isobornyl acetate, isopulegyl acetate, linalyl acetate, menthyl acetate, methylphenyl acetate, neryl acetate, nonyl acetate, o-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, phenethyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, phenethyl acetate, isoprenyl acetate, styryl acetate, terpene acetate, 4-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, geranyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, benzyl benzoate, isobutyl benzoate, linalyl benzoate, coumarin, ethyl butanoate, benzyl butanoate, isoamyl butanoate butanoate), benzyl butyrate, ethyl butyrate, ethyl butyrate, isoamyl butyrate, linalyl butyrate, butyl cinnamate, allyl caproate, ethyl cinnamate, benzyl formate, citronellyl formate, methyl dihydrojasmonate, geranyl formate, methyl formate, ethyl methyl phenyl glycinate, geranyl formate, allyl heptanoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, cis-3-hexenyl isobutyrate, isoamyl methacrylate, ethyl naphthoate, hexyl pivalate, amyl propionate, alkyl cyclohexyl propionate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, linalyl propionate, styroyl propionate, citronellyl propionate, methyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, ethyl salicylate, hexyl tiglate,
[0164] c) alcohols and phenols, such as benzyl alcohol, alpha-terpineol, anethole, carotene, kaempferol, estragole, eucalyptol, cinnamyl alcohol, citronellol, p-cresol, cumyl alcohol, 3,7-dimethyl-1-octanol, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, fenchol, eucalyptol, farnesol, eugenol, isononyl alcohol, isoeugenol, guaiacol, geraniol, eucalyptol, linalool, menthol, dihydromyrcenol, nerolidol, nerol, phenethyl alcohol, safrole, isosafrole, phytol, isophytol, terpineol, tetrahydrolinalool, tetrahydromyrcenol, thymol, vetiverol, undecavertol,
[0165] d) Aldehydes, such as phenylacetaldehyde, salicylaldehyde, anisaldehyde, caprylaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, hexylcinnamaldehyde, bourgeonal, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, citronellaloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, cuminaldehyde, tetraazacyclopentadecane, 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehyde (privet aldehyde), dodecanal, decylaldehyde, acetaldehyde, octanal, decanal, geranial, nephrolaldehyde, lauryl aldehyde, lactones such as γ-undecalactone, lily of the valley aldehyde, methyl-n-nonyl acetaldehyde, methyloctyl acetaldehyde, undecanal, salicylaldehyde, vanillin,
[0166] e) ketones, such as benzylacetone, calone (7-methyl-2H-benzo-1,5-dioxepin-3(4H)-one), carvone, camphor, civetone, damascenone, damascenone, ethyl amyl ketone, ethyl hexyl ketone, geranylacetone, jasmone, irone, maltol (3-hydroxy-2-methyl-4H-pyran-4-one), ethyl maltol, menthone, isomenthone, musk ketone, methyl heptenone, ionones, such as methyl ionone, 4-methylacetophenone, methyl amyl ketone, methyl hepyl ketone, methyl hexyl ketone, α-isomethyl ionone, and methyl cedryl ketone sold under the name Vertofix by International Fragrance Company (IFF),
[0167] f) ethers such as anethole, benzyl ethyl ether, cedarwood methyl ether, p-cresol methyl ether,
[0168] g) artificial musks derived from various nitro compounds, ambrette musk, musk ketone, xylene musk, macrocyclic musks,
[0169] h) Nitriles, such as trimethyl-3,5,7-octane(ene)nitrile and its α-substituted derivatives, citronellal nitrile, citrus nitrile, geranyl nitrile.
[0170] According to another aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a polymer (P) of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type as defined above for improving the impact strength of a cosmetic formulation (F) for topical use as described above.
[0171] According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is a method for making up human skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said human or animal skin a composition for topical use (F) as defined above.
[0172] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (F) for topical use according to the invention, comprising an effective amount of at least one organic sunscreen and / or at least one inorganic sunscreen for protecting human skin from the unaesthetic effects of the sun's ultraviolet rays on said human skin.
[0173] The term "unaesthetic effects of solar UV rays on said human skin" refers to undesirable excessive pigmentation such as red patches on the skin, changes in skin plasticity that may lead to wrinkling of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or pronounced fine lines, superficial desquamation, commonly referred to as "skin peeling", corresponding to increased shedding of dead skin due to prolonged exposure of the skin to solar UV rays.
[0174] The step of applying the composition for topical use (F) to the skin can be performed using fingers or an applicator such as, for example, a brush or a sponge.
[0175] The following examples illustrate the invention without however limiting it.
[0176] Example 1:
[0177] 1.1. Preparation of a terpolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid ammonium, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate [AMPS / DMAM / LMA (4EO) 77.4 / 19.2 / 3.4 mol] crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). [According to the example of the invention]
[0178] 592 g of an aqueous solution containing 15% by mass of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid ammonium in a tert-butanol / water mixture (97.5 / 2.5 by volume), 10.1 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, 4.2 g of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and 0.75 g of trimethylolpropane triacrylate are charged to a reactor maintained at 25° C. under stirring.
[0179] After sufficient time to achieve good homogenization of the solution, it is deoxygenated by bubbling with nitrogen heated to 70° C. 0.42 g of dilauroyl peroxide are then added and the reaction medium is then maintained at 70° C. for about 60 minutes and then at 80° C. for 2 hours.
[0180] After cooling, the powder formed during the polymerization was filtered off and dried to obtain the desired product, hereinafter referred to as: Polyelectrolyte 1
[0181] 1.2 Crosslinked polyelectrolyte of ammonium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, stearyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate (ATBS / HEA / SMA / LAUMA: 88.1 / 9.9 / 1.0 / 1.0; polyelectrolyte 2) crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
[0182] The following were charged into a reactor maintained at 25°C under stirring and containing 245 g of tert-butyl alcohol:
[0183] - 33.8 g of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (ATBS);
[0184] - 12.9 g of ammonium bicarbonate;
[0185] - 2.12 g of (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate (HEA);
[0186] - 0.62 g of stearyl methacrylate (SMA);
[0187] - 0.48 g of lauryl methacrylate (LAUMA);
[0188] - 0.54 g of trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
[0189] After sufficient time to achieve good homogenization of the solution, it is deoxygenated by bubbling with nitrogen and then the temperature of the medium is brought to 70° C. When the desired temperature is reached, 0.50 g of dilauroyl peroxide is added. Polymerization starts immediately. The reaction medium is then kept at this temperature for about 60 minutes and the mixture is then heated to 80° C. This temperature is maintained for 2 hours before cooling. The powder formed during the polymerization is filtered off and dried to obtain Polyelectrolyte 2 .
[0190] 1.3. Preparation of a terpolymer of ammonium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate [AMPS / HEA / LMA (4EO) 77.4 / 19.2 / 3.4 mol] crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
[0191] While adopting the operating conditions of the process described in Example 1.1 above, a reactor maintained at 25° C. under stirring was charged with the amount by mass of an aqueous solution containing 15% by mass of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate in a tert-butanol / water mixture (97.5 / 2.5 by volume) required to introduce 77.4 molar equivalents of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate, the amount by mass of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate required to introduce 19.2 molar equivalents of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, the amount by mass of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate required to introduce 3.4 molar equivalents of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, and the amount by mass of trimethylolpropane triacrylate required to obtain the same molar ratio of trimethylolpropane triacrylate as in Example 1.1.
[0192] After sufficient time to achieve good homogenization of the solution, it is deoxygenated by bubbling with nitrogen heated to 70° C. 0.42 g of dilauroyl peroxide are then added and the reaction medium is then maintained at 70° C. for about 60 minutes and then at 80° C. for 2 hours.
[0193] After cooling, the powder formed during the polymerization was filtered off and dried to obtain the desired product, hereinafter referred to as: Polyelectrolyte 3 .
[0194] 1.4. Preparation of a copolymer of ammonium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate [AMPS / HEA 90 / 10 mol] crosslinked with methylenebis(acrylamide) (MBA).
[0195] Place the following in a beaker while stirring:
[0196] - 608.8 g of a commercial solution containing 50% 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid sodium salt,
[0197] - 72.6 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate,
[0198] - 0.18 g of sodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate, and
[0199] - 0.121 g of methylene bis(acrylamide),
[0200] The pH of the aqueous phase described above was adjusted to 3.5 by adding 0.7 g of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid.
[0201] In parallel, prepare the organic phase by introducing the following in sequence into a stirred beaker:
[0202] -220g of Isopar M,
[0203] - 25 g of Montane 70VG (sorbitan oleate ethoxylated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide sold by the company Seppic) and
[0204] - 0.2 g of azobis(isobutyronitrile).
[0205] The aqueous phase is gradually introduced into the organic phase and then subjected to intensive mechanical stirring using an Ultra-Turrax sold by the company IKA.
[0206] The obtained emulsion was then transferred to a polymerization reactor.The emulsion was subjected to significant nitrogen sparging in order to remove oxygen and cooled to about 5-6°C.
[0207] 10 g of a solution containing 1.1% by weight of cumene hydroperoxide active substance in isohexadecane are then introduced. After sufficient time for good homogenization of the solution, 25 g of an aqueous sodium metabisulfite solution (0.2% solution) are introduced over the course of about 25 minutes. During this introduction, the temperature in the polymerization reactor is allowed to rise to the final polymerization temperature, and the reaction medium is then kept at this temperature for about 90 minutes.
[0208] The resulting mixture is then cooled to a temperature of about 35°C to obtain an emulsion, which is then TM Atomize it with a type device and obtain it in powder form Polyelectrolyte 4 .
[0209] In the above Example 1.4, the monomer having formula (1) does not participate in the polymerization reaction, thereby having a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (Polyelectrolyte 4), which is intended to be used to compare the effects associated with the presence of the monomer having formula (1) in the polymer backbone of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte.
[0210] Example 2:
[0211] A - Preparation of compacted compositions according to the invention comprising polyelectrolytes 1 to 4 and comparative formulations.
[0212] The color pigment to be tested, the filler (talc) and the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte are introduced into a Vorwerk knife mill of the Thermomix™ 3300 model. The powder mixture is then subjected to successive grinding operations, 3 times for 30 seconds, at a temperature of 25° C. and a stirring speed of 7700 rpm. The drum walls are scraped between each grinding operation in order to entrain all the powder during the grinding step.
[0213] The binder is then distributed in the powder mixture thus obtained in the pulverizer drum, and this new mixture is then subjected to a grinding operation, three times for 30 seconds, effectively scraping the drum walls between each grinding.
[0214] An optimal amount of 11 g of this mixture is introduced into a metal can with a diameter of 3 cm and a "bergamot" type fabric (100% polyamide) is placed on the surface of the can.
[0215] This can is then placed in a manual "compactor", ie a device for compacting the powder present in the can by applying a determined pressure.
[0216] A pressure of 130 bar was then applied to the tank at a temperature of 25°C for a period of 1 second.
[0217] Formulations according to the invention (F1), (F2), (F3), (F4) and comparative formulations (F5), (F6), (F'1) and (F'2) as described in Tables 1 and 2 below were obtained.
[0218] [Table 1]
[0219]
[0220] [Table 2]
[0221]
[0222] B—Demonstration of the properties and characteristics of the compacted formulations according to the invention compared to those of the prior art.
[0223] The previously prepared formulations (F1) to (F6) and the comparative formulations (F'1) and (F'2) were then evaluated as follows:
[0224] - its impact strength is measured according to the "drop test" method,
[0225] - Evaluation of transfer to skin at ambient temperature (25°C),
[0226] - Evaluation of transfer to skin after storage in a humid atmosphere at 50°C.
[0227] Impact was evaluated according to the "Drop Test" method for formulations (F1) to (F6) and formulations (F'1) and (F'2) Strength Experimental Plan
[0228] Principle: Determine the number of consecutive drops at which the surface of the compacted formulation to be tested begins to crack and / or break.
[0229] Apparatus: Metal can, 3 cm in diameter, containing the compacted formulation to be tested, tubular guide for drop
[0230] Procedure: The formulations to be tested are prepared according to the above procedure and obtained in cans of 3 cm diameter. Each can is placed at a height of 20 cm from the ground and released x times from said height along a tubular guide. After each drop, the experimenter observes the surface of the formulation present in the can and notes "no cracks or fragments on the surface" or "cracks or fragments on the surface" as appropriate. The experimenter then determines the number of consecutive drops required for the first observation of "cracks or fragments on the surface". The test is repeated 3 times for each formulation.
[0231] For evaluating the transfer quality of formulations (F1) to (F6) and formulation (F'1) to the skin at 25°C and 50°C Experimental protocol
[0232] • Principle: To characterize the transfer of the compacted formulation to be tested at 25°C and 50°C to the experimenter's finger by estimating the adequacy of the amount collected after passing the finger across the can.
[0233] · equipment : Metal can, 3 cm diameter, containing the compacted formulation to be tested
[0234] Procedure: The formulation to be tested was prepared according to the above procedure and obtained in a jar with a diameter of 3 cm. Before each test, the experimenter washed his hands with soap and dried his hands to remove the moisture generated by washing. The experimenter then ran his finger across the surface of the jar containing the formulation to be tested in order to take some. The experimenter then determined the adequacy of the amount collected using the following criteria: "Insufficient absorption", "Fair absorption" and "Good absorption".
[0235] Measuring conditions: The formulations were tested after 7 days of storage at 25°C and ambient humidity and at 50°C under humid conditions: For these measurements, the cans were placed over a water bed in a closed chamber of an oven at 50°C for 7 days. Measurements were taken on the 1st, 3rd and 7th day.
[0236] The results of these evaluations are shown in Tables 3 and 4 below.
[0237] [Table 3]
[0238]
[0239] [Table 4]
[0240]
[0241] Comments and Conclusions
[0242] The results are considered satisfactory if:
[0243] - The experimenter did not observe "cracks or breaks on the surface" for 5 or more consecutive drops, and
[0244] - The absorption quality at 25°C was judged as "good absorption"
[0245] - The absorption quality at 50°C was judged as "good absorption"
[0246] Formulations (F1), (F2) and (F3) comprising 0.5% by mass of polyelectrolyte 1, polyelectrolyte 2 and polyelectrolyte 3, respectively, showed the desired impact strength (number of drops before cracks were observed was 8, 7 and 5, respectively) and the absorption quality at 25° C. and 50° C. was judged to be "good absorption". In contrast, formulation (F'1) comprising a copolymer based on the sodium salt of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate crosslinked with methylenebis(acrylamide), but not comprising the monomer of formula (I) as defined above, exhibited poor impact strength, since cracks appeared on the surface of the compacted formulation (F'1) after only a single drop.
[0247] Comparative formulations (F5) and (F6) comprising a proportion by mass of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) in composition (C1) greater than 0.7% are characterized by poor absorption on the skin, according to the test at 50°C.
[0248] The comparative formulation (F'2), characterized by the absence of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte polymer (P), shows no improved impact strength.
Claims
1. A powdery composition (C1) in powder form, the powdery composition comprising, per 100% by mass: i) from 84.3% to 95.8% by mass of at least one filler (FA) ii) from 4 to 15% by mass of at least one colored pigment (CP) -iii) from 0.2 to 0.7% by mass of at least one crosslinked polymer (P) of anionic polyelectrolyte type, which comprises, per 100 mol %, from 65 to 95 mol % of monomer units derived from partially or completely salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, from 4.8 to 25 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one neutral monomer selected from the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, N,N-dialkylacrylamide, in which each alkyl group contains between one and four carbon atoms, and from 0.1 to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer of formula (I): [Chemical formula 1] wherein R represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from eight to twenty carbon atoms, and n represents an integer greater than or equal to zero and less than or equal to twenty, and from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one diolefinic or polyolefinic crosslinking monomer.
2. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 1, characterized in that In the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P), the neutral monomer is selected from the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate or N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
3. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 1, characterized in that In this crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P), the monomer of formula (I) is selected from elements of the group consisting of: tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-dodecyl and in which n is equal to four, lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-dodecyl and in which n is equal to zero, isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents isododecyl and in which n is equal to zero, and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-octadecyl and in which n is equal to zero.
4. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 2, characterized in that In this crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P), the monomer of formula (I) is selected from elements of the group consisting of: tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-dodecyl and in which n is equal to four, lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-dodecyl and in which n is equal to zero, isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents isododecyl and in which n is equal to zero, and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3), which corresponds to formula (I) in which R represents n-octadecyl and in which n is equal to zero.
5. The powdery composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that In the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P), the diolefinic or polyolefinic crosslinking monomer is chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebis(acrylamide), or a mixture of these compounds.
6. The powdery composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) is a polymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
7. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 5, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) is a polymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
8. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 6, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) comprises, per 100 mol%,: - from 65 mol % to 95 mol % of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo- -2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer units; - from 4.8 mol % to 25 mol % of monomer units derived from N,N-dimethylacrylamide, - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
9. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 7, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) comprises, per 100 mol%,: - from 65 mol % to 95 mol % of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo- -2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer units; - from 4.8 mol % to 25 mol % of monomer units derived from N,N-dimethylacrylamide, - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate of formula (I1), - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
10. The powdery composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) is a polymer partially or completely salified in the form of a sodium salt of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2) or isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2) and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3) in a molar ratio (I2) / (I3) or (I'2) / (I3) greater than or equal to 1 / 10 and less than or equal to 10 / 1, and crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
11. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 5, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) is a polymer partially or completely salified in the form of a sodium salt of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2) or isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2) and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3) in a molar ratio (I2) / (I3) or (I'2) / (I3) greater than or equal to 1 / 10 and less than or equal to 10 / 1, and crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
12. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 10, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) comprises, per 100 mol%,: - from 70 mol % to 95 mol % of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo- -2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer units; - from 4.8 mol % to 20 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, - from 0.1 mol% to 5 mol% of monomer units derived from lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2) or isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2) and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3) in a molar ratio of (I2) / (I3) or (I'2) / (I3) greater than or equal to 1 / 6 and less than or equal to 6 / 1, - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
13. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 11, characterized in that The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte type polymer (P) comprises, per 100 mol%,: - from 70 mol % to 95 mol % of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo- -2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer units; - from 4.8 mol % to 20 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, - from 0.1 mol% to 5 mol% of monomer units derived from lauryl methacrylate of formula (I2) or isododecyl methacrylate of formula (I'2) and stearyl methacrylate of formula (I3) in a molar ratio of (I2) / (I3) or (I'2) / (I3) greater than or equal to 1 / 6 and less than or equal to 6 / 1, - from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
14. A powdery composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 7 to 9 and 11 to 13, characterized in that The filler (FA) is selected from the group consisting of an inorganic lamellar type filler, an organic lamellar type filler, an inorganic spherical type filler and an organic spherical type filler.
15. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 5, characterized in that The filler (FA) is selected from the group consisting of an inorganic lamellar type filler, an organic lamellar type filler, an inorganic spherical type filler and an organic spherical type filler.
16. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 6, characterized in that The filler (FA) is selected from the group consisting of an inorganic lamellar type filler, an organic lamellar type filler, an inorganic spherical type filler and an organic spherical type filler.
17. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 10, characterized in that The filler (FA) is selected from the group consisting of an inorganic lamellar type filler, an organic lamellar type filler, an inorganic spherical type filler and an organic spherical type filler.
18. A powdery composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 7 to 9 and 11 to 13, characterized in that The colored pigment (CP) is selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.
19. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 5, characterized in that The colored pigment (CP) is selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.
20. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 6, characterized in that The colored pigment (CP) is selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.
21. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 10, characterized in that The colored pigment (CP) is selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.
22. The powdery composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 7 to 9, 11 to 13, 15 to 17 and 19 to 21, characterized in that The powdery composition contains water in a content of less than or equal to 2% by mass per 100% by mass thereof.
23. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 5, characterized in that The powdery composition contains water in a content of less than or equal to 2% by mass per 100% by mass thereof.
24. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 6, characterized in that The powdery composition contains water in a content of less than or equal to 2% by mass per 100% by mass thereof.
25. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 10, characterized in that The powdery composition contains water in a content of less than or equal to 2% by mass per 100% by mass thereof.
26. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 14, characterized in that The powdery composition contains water in a content of less than or equal to 2% by mass per 100% by mass thereof.
27. The powdery composition (C1) according to claim 18, characterized in that The powdery composition contains water in a content of less than or equal to 2% by mass per 100% by mass thereof.
28. A composition for topical use (F), comprising per 100% by mass: i) from 90 to 97% by mass of at least one pulverulent composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 27 ii) from 3 to 10% by mass of at least one fatty binder (BA) which is liquid at 20°C.
29. The composition for topical use (F) according to claim 28, characterized in that The binder (BA) is selected from the group consisting of castor oil, octyldodecanol, dimethicone, cetearyl ethylhexanoate and isopropyl myristate.
30. Use of a polymer (P) of the crosslinked, anionic polyelectrolyte type as claimed in claim 1 for improving the impact strength of compacted cosmetic formulations for topical use comprising at least one binder (BA).
31. A composition (F) for topical use according to any one of claims 28 and 29, comprising an effective amount of at least one organic sunscreen and / or at least one inorganic sunscreen for protecting human skin from the unaesthetic effects of the sun's ultraviolet rays on said human skin.
32. A method for applying makeup to human skin, characterized in that: The method comprises at least one step of applying to the human skin a composition for topical use (F) as claimed in any one of claims 28 and 29.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Full-frame short focal lenght imaging system
EP0171979A1
Pressed powder cosmetic compositions and process for the preparation
EP0717979A2
Compositions comprising santalins, santarubins for artificially coloring the skin
EP0971683A1
Composition cosmetique solide sous forme de poudre compacte
FR2980108A1
Compact powder cosmetic compositions with a solid fatty phase
US20050186235A1