Method for manufacturing flat and seamless suit collar
By making collar bottom samples and collar core lining samples separately, and using a small table and ironing technology, the problems of missing burrs and unclean appearance at the corners of suit collars were solved, and the beauty and neatness of the suit collars were improved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202211003632.4
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-08-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-30
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-08-20
AI Technical Summary
The existing suit collars are prone to hair stubble and unclean appearance at the collar corners, which affects the appearance.
The flat-fitting and seamless suit collar is made by separately making the collar base pattern and the collar core lining pattern, using a small table instead of silk cloth, and indenting the collar core lining into the collar corner of the collar base. Ironing and sewing techniques are combined to reduce sewing marks and bulging.
It reduces the stitching marks and bulges at the corners of the suit collar, improves the aesthetics and neatness of the suit collar, and improves work efficiency.
Smart Images

Figure CN115153134B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of clothing manufacturing, in particular to a method for manufacturing a flat and seamless suit collar. Background Art
[0002] The collar is the first part of a suit. Its appearance and workmanship are key factors in evaluating the quality and grade of a suit.
[0003] Many technical challenges remain regarding the patterning and sewing of suit collars. Currently, a major quality flaw facing companies is the intricate stitching of the silk lining between the collar base and collar top at the collar angles. This process can easily lead to slivers of silk lining at the collar top, creating an untidy appearance. Furthermore, improper handling can easily cause the silk lining to leak out, affecting the appearance. Summary of the Invention
[0004] In order to reduce the problem of hair stubble leakage at the collar point of a suit collar, which makes the appearance unclean and easily affects the aesthetics of the suit collar, the present application provides a method for manufacturing a flat and seamless suit collar.
[0005] This application provides a method for manufacturing a flat-fitting, seamless suit collar, which adopts the following technical solutions:
[0006] A method for manufacturing a flat and seamless suit collar comprises the following steps:
[0007] a. Make a collar base pattern, and based on the regular shape of the collar base, make a small platform at the collar corner;
[0008] b. Cut the fabric according to the collar base pattern to produce the collar base;
[0009] c. Make a collar core lining pattern, and indent the collar corners of the collar core lining pattern into the collar corners of the collar base pattern;
[0010] d. Cut the fabric according to the collar lining pattern to produce the collar lining;
[0011] e. The collar core lining is placed on the collar base, with the collar corners of the collar core lining indented at the collar corners of the collar base, and then the collar core lining is installed on the collar base;
[0012] f. Sew the collar surface, collar core lining and collar base together, and use the small platform to sew the allowance and split the seam;
[0013] g. Finally, install the finished suit collar and body.
[0014] By adopting the above technical solution, unlike the prior art, the present application separately manufactures the collar base template and the collar core lining template, so that the collar base fabric and the collar core lining can be cut separately, without having to cut them together, so that the collar base fabric and the collar core lining can be processed differently, so that the height difference between the collar base fabric and the collar core lining after being abutted can be used to introduce the existence of the seam allowance, thereby reducing the traces on the surface of the finished suit collar. A small platform is made on the collar base fabric template, and the collar base fabric processed separately also has a small platform. The small platform can replace the silk cloth in the prior art. At the same time, the small platform can be directly used for seaming. When the seam is opened, the seam allowance is aligned with the collar core lining. Therefore, when the collar base fabric and the collar surface are sewn together, the collar corners are cleaner and there is no excess, which reduces the occurrence of bulging. The collar core lining is indented relative to the collar base fabric at the collar corners, so that the seam allowance of the collar base fabric hooked at the collar corners is folded over and is exactly connected to the collar core lining, achieving a uniform thickness, further improving the cleanliness of the collar corners, and making it less likely to bulge at the collar corners. At the end of the suit collar
[0015] Optionally, in step b, the small platform is directly cut out during the process of cutting the collar base, so the small platform and the collar base are formed as one piece, one end of the small platform is flush with the outer edge of the collar of the collar base, the other end of the small platform is 1 cm away from the collar point, and the width of the small platform is 0.5 cm;
[0016] The collar corner of the collar core lining is indented into the collar corner of the collar base by 0.5cm.
[0017] By adopting the above technical solution, the integrally formed platform and the collar base are made of the same material. Therefore, the platform does not have color difference compared to silk fabrics used in the prior art. At the same time, because the platform and the collar base are integrally formed, there is no need for a sewing process, which not only improves work efficiency but also reduces sewing marks at the collar corners and the probability of bulging at the collar corners. The platform is 0.5 cm wide, and the distance between the collar corners of the collar core lining and the collar base is also 0.5. In fact, the collar core lining is exactly indented by 1 cm. The effect is that the 0.5 cm seam allowance of the collar base lining, after being folded over, is exactly aligned with the edge of the collar core lining, reducing the thickness at this point and preventing bulging at the collar corners.
[0018] Optionally, in step c, when making the collar core lining template, a fold line is drawn, and triangular notches are cut on the collar core lining template at both ends of the fold line. The vertex of the open end of the triangular notch is 0.25 cm away from the fold line, and the triangular notch extends 1 cm on the fold line.
[0019] By adopting the above technical solution, wrinkles are easily generated at both ends of the collar core lining during the folding process. However, the collar core lining is processed according to the collar core lining template, and triangular notches are also present on the collar core lining. The triangular notches are located on the folding line, and the triangular notches cause breaks at both ends of the collar core lining, which can play a role of giving way and reducing the effect of wrinkles at both ends of the collar core lining. In addition, there are no triangular notches on the collar base and the collar surface, and the triangular notches can be covered, so that the triangular notches will not affect the aesthetics of the suit collar.
[0020] Optionally, in step c, a notch is cut on the collar core lining template on the side of the triangular notch close to the inner collar opening, the notch is set at an angle, and the notch extends 1 cm in the direction close to the fold line.
[0021] By employing this technical solution, the notch allows the collar lining to be lifted separately near the collar opening, making it easier to sandwich the seam allowance between the collar lining and the collar base, thus concealing the seam allowance and reducing surface marks on the suit collar, thereby improving the collar's aesthetics. The notch is 1 cm deep, allowing the collar lining to be lifted separately at the corner without damaging the lining. Furthermore, the notch is not too deep to cause dents on the finished suit collar.
[0022] Optionally, in step d, the collar lining fabric is cut using black charcoal lining with glue, and after the collar lining and the collar base are overlapped, they are ironed with an iron;
[0023] During the ironing process, the part of the collar core lining close to the collar outer opening is not ironed, and the collar core lining and collar string opening on the side of the cut away from the collar inner opening are not ironed either.
[0024] By adopting the above technical solution, the collar core lining made of black charcoal interlining with adhesive can be directly attached to the collar base fabric by ironing, without the need for sewing or additional adhesive, thereby reducing the problem of bulges between the collar core lining and the collar base fabric. By not ironing the intermediate portion, the seam allowance can be sandwiched between the collar base fabric and the collar core lining during the production and installation of the suit collar, making the surface of the suit collar neater, reducing marks caused by the seam allowance, and improving the aesthetics of the suit collar.
[0025] Optionally, in step e, when the collar core lining is stacked on the collar base, the collar core lining is moved as a whole toward the outer opening of the collar, so that one end of the collar core lining located at the outer opening of the collar protrudes from the collar base by 0.15 cm, and the other three edges of the collar core lining are indented into the edge of the collar base by 0.15 cm.
[0026] By adopting this technical solution, the collar core lining protrudes 0.15cm from the collar base, leaving room for eyelids and ensuring consistent eyelid size. This reduces the problem of "pitting" caused by the contrast between the thin eyelids and the collar base during collar stitching. The three edges of the collar core lining are indented 0.15cm from the collar base, preventing the collar core lining from being exposed. The 0.15cm size not only prevents the collar core lining from being exposed, but also prevents pitting at the edge of the suit collar.
[0027] Optionally, in the step d, during the production of the collar core lining, a folding line is drawn according to the collar core lining template;
[0028] Then in step e, after the collar core lining is fixed to the collar base, sew the small white belt along the fold line.
[0029] By adopting the above technical solution, it is convenient to draw a fold line on the collar core lining according to the fold line on the collar core template. The small white belt on the fold line can tighten the collar core lining, thereby shrinking the collar core lining and facilitating the shaping of the suit collar.
[0030] Optionally, in step e, when suturing the leucorrhea, care should be taken that the two ends of the leucorrhea do not touch the triangular notch, the width of the leucorrhea is 0.3 cm, and the pulling amount of the leucorrhea is 1 cm.
[0031] By adopting this technical solution, the ends of the small white tape do not contact the triangular notch, making it less likely for the collar lining to tear at the triangular notch when the small white tape applies force to the collar lining. The small white tape is 0.3 cm wide, allowing it to generate sufficient tension to facilitate sewing without affecting the folding of the collar. The 1 cm pull allows for easy shaping of the collar without causing wrinkles.
[0032] Optionally, in step f, when sewing the collar surface, when the adjacent seam allowance is sandwiched between the collar base fabric and the collar core lining, the collar base and the collar surface are spliced together according to a 1 cm seam allowance and a set 0.7 cm feed.
[0033] By adopting the above technical solution, the 1cm seam allowance can make the sewing of the collar surface, the collar base fabric and the collar core lining more stable, and the seam allowance is between the collar base fabric and the collar core lining, which can reduce the occurrence of marks. In addition, the set allowance of 0.7cm will not affect the 1cm seam allowance.
[0034] Optionally, in step g, after the collar is attached, the seam allowance is split, and the seam allowance on the side close to the suit collar is sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining.
[0035] By adopting the above technical solution, after the serial seam allowance is divided, the seam allowance is sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining, which can prevent the collar corners from curling outwards, thereby making the collar corners of the suit collar and the connection between the suit collar and the body of the suit smoother and improving the aesthetics.
[0036] In summary,
[0037] 1. Because the use of a small seam instead of silk cloth can reduce a sewing process, and the collar corners of the collar core lining are indented into the collar corners of the collar base, after the small seam is hooked and sewn, the seam allowance is aligned with the collar core lining, so that there will be no marks or missing seams at the collar corners, making the collar corners neater;
[0038] 2. The seams of the collar and the collar are sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining, which can perfectly hide the seams of the collar and the collar. No seam burn marks or laser marks can be seen on the outside, making the collar fit better and the collar corners will not curl outwards.
[0039] 3. The eyelids outside the collar are the same size, because there is a collar core lining inside the eyelids outside the collar, the eyelids have a certain thickness, and there will be no phenomenon of the collar eyelids falling into pits. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0040] Figure 1 It is a structural schematic diagram of the collar bottom fabric in the embodiment.
[0041] Figure 2 Schematic diagram of the matching of the collar core lining and the collar base fabric in the embodiment.
[0042] Figure 3 Schematic diagram of the matching state of the collar core lining and the collar surface in the embodiment.
[0043] Figure 4 Schematic diagram of a suit collar installed on a garment body in an embodiment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0044] The following is combined with Figure 1-3 This application is described in further detail.
[0045] The embodiment of the present application discloses a method for manufacturing a flat and seamless suit collar, comprising the following steps:
[0046] Reference Figure 1 ,
[0047] a. Make a pattern of collar base fabric, and based on the regular shape of the collar base fabric, make a small platform at the collar corner.
[0048] b. Cut the fabric according to the collar base pattern to make the collar base, and trim the small platform into one piece according to the collar base pattern.
[0049] Reference Figure 2 ,
[0050] c. To make the collar core pattern, first indent the collar corners of the collar core pattern into those of the collar base pattern. Then, draw a fold line on the collar core pattern. Cut triangular notches into the pattern at both ends of the fold line. The apex of the triangular notch should be 0.25 cm from the fold line, and the notch should extend 1 cm above the fold line. A notch should be cut into the pattern on the side of the collar core pattern near the inner collar opening. The notch should be set at an angle and extend 1 cm toward the fold line.
[0051] d. Cut the fabric according to the collar core lining pattern to make the collar core lining. The fabric for cutting the collar core lining is black charcoal lining with glue. At the same time, triangular notches and cuts should be cut on the collar core lining, and fold lines should be drawn on the collar core lining according to the collar core lining pattern.
[0052] e. The collar core lining is stacked on the collar base, and the collar corners of the collar core lining are indented at the collar corners of the collar base. Then, the collar core lining and the collar base are connected by ironing. Because the collar core lining has rubber particles, the rubber particles can melt when heated and then solidify, so that the collar core lining and the collar base can be stuck together. During the ironing process, the part of the collar core lining close to the outer opening of the collar is not ironed, and the collar core lining and the collar string end on the side away from the inner opening of the collar are not ironed. The width of the unironed part of the collar core lining close to the outer opening of the collar is not less than 1.5 cm, so that the seam allowance can be sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining.
[0053] In order to ensure that the collar seam can be sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining, when ironing the collar core lining and the collar base, the distance between the ironed part and the outer edge of the collar cannot be less than 1.5 cm to ensure that the collar seam of 1 cm can be sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining.
[0054] When the collar core lining is stacked on the collar base, the collar core lining is moved toward the outer opening of the collar as a whole, so that the end of the collar core lining located at the outer opening of the collar protrudes 0.15cm from the collar base. The protruding part serves as the eyelid, which can make the width of the eyelid the same, thereby reducing the phenomenon of pitting.
[0055] The other three edges of the collar core lining are indented into the edge of the collar base by 0.15 cm, which can prevent the collar core lining from being exposed and further improve the aesthetics of the collar.
[0056] A 0.3cm thick pull cord is used as the collar tie. The cord is then sewn along the fold line, avoiding the triangular notch at both ends. This prevents the cord from connecting to the notch and preventing the collar lining from tearing due to the pull of the cord. The cord is pulled 1cm, which allows the ends of the collar to curl inwards without wrinkling, resulting in a cleaner finish.
[0057] Reference Figure 3,
[0058] f. Sew the collar surface, collar core lining and collar base fabric together. The small table is used for sewing and dividing the seams. When sewing the collar surface, when the adjacent seams are sandwiched between the collar base fabric and collar core lining, the collar base and collar surface are joined together according to a 1cm seam allowance and a set 0.7cm allowance.
[0059] Reference Figure 4 ,
[0060] g. Finally, assemble the finished suit collar and the body of the suit. After the collar is attached, the seam allowance is split, and the seam allowance on the side close to the suit collar is sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining.
[0061] In step b, the small platform and the collar base are integrally formed, and the small platform is used instead of the silk cloth. However, the existing technology requires sewing a small piece of silk cloth at the collar corner of the collar base, and then sews the collar surface and the collar base together by hooking. The disadvantage of this method is that the color of the silk cloth and the collar base may be different, which makes it easy to leak the color of the silk cloth and the collar corner has hair stubble, resulting in an unclean appearance. Therefore, the small platform in this application replaces the silk cloth, which firstly reduces a sewing process and improves work efficiency. Secondly, it can also prevent the collar corner from producing ridges and color differences, reduce the presence of hair stubble, and improve the aesthetics of the collar corner.
[0062] The cutouts created in step d prevent the collar lining's end near the collar opening from resting on the collar base during ironing, allowing the portion of the collar lining near the collar opening to be lifted independently. In steps f and g, after the collar is sewed, the seams on the collar are split, with the seams on the front and back panels near the collar sandwiched between the collar base and the collar lining. This effectively conceals the collar lining, preventing visible seam marks or laser light.
[0063] The above steps have the following effects: the collar corner of the collar core pattern is moved inward by 0.5cm based on the original collar base, and at the same time the small platform protrudes from the collar corner by 0.5cm. Then the collar core lining is retracted into the collar corner of the collar base by 1cm relative to the edge of the small platform, and the collar base seam is 0.5cm. After splicing, it needs to be seamed. During the sewing process, a part of the small platform width is required, and then the seams are split, so that the edge of the collar base is just aligned with the edge of the collar core lining, thereby improving the flatness of the collar corner. If the two overlap, the thickness and flatness will be increased.
[0064] The above are all preferred embodiments of the present application, and are not intended to limit the scope of protection of the present application. Therefore, any equivalent changes made based on the structure, shape, and principle of the present application should be included in the scope of protection of the present application.
Claims
1. A method for making a flat and seamless suit collar, characterized by: The following steps are involved: The following steps are involved: a. Make a collar base pattern, and based on the regular shape of the collar base, make a small platform at the collar corner; b. Cut the fabric according to the collar base pattern to produce the collar base; In step b, the small platform is directly cut out during the process of cutting the collar base, so the small platform and the collar base are formed integrally, one end of the small platform is flush with the outer edge of the collar of the collar base, the other end of the small platform is 1 cm away from the collar point, and the width of the small platform is 0.5 cm; The collar corner of the collar core lining is indented into the collar corner of the collar base by 0.5cm; c. Make a collar core lining pattern, and indent the collar corners of the collar core lining pattern into the collar corners of the collar base pattern; In the step c, when making the collar core lining template, a fold line is drawn, triangular notches are cut on the collar core lining template at both ends of the fold line, and a notch is cut on the collar core lining template on the side of the triangular notch close to the collar inner opening; d. Cut the fabric according to the collar lining pattern to produce the collar lining; e. The collar core lining is placed on the collar base, with the collar corners of the collar core lining indented at the collar corners of the collar base, and then the collar core lining is installed on the collar base; f. Sew the collar surface, collar core lining and collar base together, and use the small platform to sew the allowance and split the seam; g. Finally, assemble the finished suit collar and the body of the suit. After the collar is attached, the seam allowance will be split, and the seam allowance on the side close to the suit collar will be sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining.
2. The method for making a flat and seamless suit collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: The vertex of the opening end of the triangular notch is 0.25 cm away from the folding line, and the triangular notch extends 1 cm on the folding line.
3. The method for making a flat and seamless suit collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: The notch is set at an angle and extends 1 cm towards the fold line.
4. The method for making a flat and seamless suit collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the step d, the collar lining is cut from black charcoal lining with glue, and after the collar lining and the collar base are overlapped, they are ironed with an iron; During the ironing process, the part of the collar core lining close to the collar outer opening is not ironed, and the collar core lining and collar string opening on the side of the cut away from the collar inner opening are not ironed either.
5. The method for making a flat and seamless suit collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the step e, when the collar core lining is stacked on the collar base, the collar core lining is moved as a whole toward the collar outer opening, so that one end of the collar core lining located at the collar outer opening protrudes 0.15 cm from the collar base, and the other three edges of the collar core lining are indented 0.15 cm from the edge of the collar base.
6. The method for making a flat and seamless suit collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the step d, during the production of the collar core lining, the folding line is drawn according to the collar core lining template; Then in step e, after the collar core lining is fixed to the collar base, the small white belt is sewn along the fold line.
7. The method for making a flat and seamless suit collar according to claim 6, characterized in that: In the step e, when suturing the leucorrhea, care should be taken that the two ends of the leucorrhea do not touch the triangular notch, the width of the leucorrhea is 0.3 cm, and the pulling amount of the leucorrhea is 1 cm.
8. The method for making a flat and seamless suit collar according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the step f, when the collar surface is sewn, when the adjacent seam allowance is sandwiched between the collar base and the collar core lining, the collar base and the collar surface are spliced together according to a 1 cm seam allowance and a set 0.7 cm feed.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Manufacturing process of business suit collar
CN103445357A