Compositions comprising combinations of polyglycerol esters

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one continuous fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase in a concentration of at least 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and dispersed in said fatty phase, at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and at least one polyglycerol ester of a carboxylic acid, at least one ester of a polyglycerol containing from 4 to 15 glycerol units and of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and trihydroxystearin, the weight ratio of at least one polyglycerol ester of poly(hydroxystearic acid) and of a carboxylic acid / polyglycerol ester of at least one fatty acid being strictly greater than 0.7.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The object of the present invention is to provide, for the field of caring for and / or making up keratin materials, especially the skin and / or the lips and in particular the skin, a new cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion which is very particularly advantageous for its technical properties, especially with regard to viscosity and stability, and for the sensation it offers the user during application to said keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0002] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" refers in particular to the skin, lips and / or eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or lips and preferably the skin of the body and / or face, more preferably the skin of the face. Background Art

[0003] Emulsions can be defined as heterogeneous systems comprising at least two liquid phases that are immiscible or have very low miscibility with each other. In these systems, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of fine droplets so that a macroscopically homogeneous mixture is observed to the naked eye.

[0004] Traditionally, formulators of cosmetic compositions have used emulsified systems combining an aqueous phase for freshness and a fatty phase for comfort.

[0005] The advantage of these systems is the ability to combine in one and the same composition cosmetic ingredients or active agents having different affinities for the two aqueous and fatty phases that are immiscible at room temperature.

[0006] Emulsification systems of the inverse emulsion type (water-in-oil emulsions, with the aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fatty phase) have many advantages over direct emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions), with regard to reduced soapy effects, as well as the good levels of coverage and homogenous appearance they provide.

[0007] On the other hand, their weakness is a noticeable greasiness and stickiness, and therefore a lack of lightness for the texture obtained.

[0008] In order to overcome these drawbacks, it has been proposed to formulate inverse emulsions comprising a particularly high content of aqueous phase, in particular at least 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These emulsions are generally known as HIPE (High Internal Phase Emulsion) inverse emulsions.

[0009] HIPE inverse emulsions have very particularly favorable rheological properties, especially with regard to viscosity, which enable them to be packaged in cans.

[0010] However, the high aqueous phase content of these compositions leads to a high proportion of droplets which are also larger and therefore closer to each other than in the case of "conventional" inverse emulsions (comprising an aqueous phase content strictly less than 50.0% by weight).

[0011] Therefore, for these compositions, the risk of coalescence between droplets increases, leading to instability of the emulsion.

[0012] Combinations of surfactants have been proposed in the prior art to stabilize water-in-oil emulsions of HIPE type, for example in documents WO 2013 / 120823 and WO 2013 / 120829.

[0013] However, these compositions have not proven to be completely satisfactory, particularly in terms of the organoleptic effects provided.

[0014] Furthermore, the protective agents commonly used in cosmetic compositions, especially those packaged in cans, also have a destabilizing effect on these HIPE inverse emulsions due to their amphiphilic nature, causing them to act at the interface of the dispersed aqueous phase droplets.

[0015] This action at the droplet interface also leads to a reduction in the antimicrobial activity of these protective agents, thus resulting in an undesirable reduction in the shelf life of the cosmetic compositions formulated therewith.

[0016] Finally, fillers, such as diffusing fillers or also soft-focus fillers, are often used in cosmetic compositions with the aim of reducing the visibility of skin relief. However, the introduction of fillers, especially in large amounts, can also lead to destabilization of the composition and to cosmetic properties that do not meet the expectations of the user.

[0017] Invention Disclosure

[0018] There is therefore still a need for cosmetic compositions formulated in the form of water-in-oil emulsions of the HIPE type which, while being stable, combine particularly advantageous technical properties in terms of sensory and rheological properties.

[0019] There also remains a need to formulate such compositions which combine cosmetic active agents with high-performance protective agents, in particular for packaging in cans, without compromising their advantageous technical properties, in particular with regard to stability.

[0020] Finally, there remains a need for compositions that are compatible with current consumer demands, especially with regard to the environment.

[0021] It is a specific object of the present invention to meet all or part of these needs. Summary of the invention

[0022] Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention, the invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising:

[0023] - at least one continuous fat phase;

[0024] - at least one aqueous phase, whose concentration is at least 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and which is dispersed in said fatty phase;

[0025] - at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and at least one polyglycerol ester of a carboxylic acid, derived from the esterification between at least one polyglycerol and (i) at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid); (ii) at least one dicarboxylic acid and / or tricarboxylic acid; and (iii) at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0026] - at least one ester of a polyglycerol comprising 4 to 15 glycerol units and of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms; and

[0027] -Trihydroxystearate,

[0028] The weight ratio of at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and polyglycerol ester of carboxylic acid / polyglycerol ester of at least one fatty acid is strictly greater than 0.7, preferably greater than 1.0.

[0029] It will be appreciated that weight ratios are expressed as active ingredients of each component.

[0030] To the best of the inventors' knowledge, stabilizing cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions of the HIPE type by combining the specific active agents according to the invention, i.e. at least two polyglycerol esters as defined above, with trihydroxystearin in a specific weight ratio has never been described in the prior art.

[0031] The inventors have surprisingly observed that a combination of at least two polyglycerol esters as defined above, used in a specific weight ratio, and trihydroxystearin can effectively stabilize HIPE type water-in-oil emulsions containing them.

[0032] Furthermore, the compositions thus obtained have particularly advantageous cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to the sensory effects offered to the user during application, in particular with regard to reduced greasiness and stickiness, increased freshness or absence of saponification (white film when applied to the skin).

[0033] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain any controversial ingredients and in particular does not contain any silicone compound, such as silicone oil.

[0034] The compositions according to the invention are used in particular for caring for and / or making up keratin materials and preferably for caring for keratin materials.

[0035] According to another of its aspects, the invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

[0036] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the composition according to the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the accompanying examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0037] Composition

[0038] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological and is preferably cosmetic.

[0039] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0040] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, ie one that has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (ie stinging, tightness or redness) which could tend to deter the user from applying the composition.

[0041] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an inverse emulsion of the HIPE type, ie comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in said fatty phase (in a content of at least 50% by weight).

[0042] In particular, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a viscosity ranging from 0.1 to 10 Pa.s, preferably from 0.5 to 8.0 Pa.s, more preferably from 2.5 to 7.0 Pa.s.

[0043] The viscosity of the composition was measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM100 equipped with a MS-R4 rotor at 200 rpm. (from LAMY). The measurement is carried out after 10 minutes of rotation. The viscosity measurement is carried out at most 1 week after production.

[0044] The composition according to the invention may be packaged in cans.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0046] Polyglycerol esters of poly(hydroxystearic acid)

[0047] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and at least one polyglycerol ester of a carboxylic acid, derived from the esterification between at least one polyglycerol and (i) at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid); (ii) at least one dicarboxylic acid and / or tricarboxylic acid; and (iii) at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0048] Mention may be made more particularly of esters derived from the reaction of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) having from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, more preferably from 2 to 5 polyglycerol units (preferably 4 units); (ii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); and (iii) at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms (preferably isostearic acid). Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20% and 40%, preferably between 40% and 70%.

[0049] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyglycerol esters of poly(hydroxystearic acid) are derived from the esterification of polyglycerol with a mixture of (i) poly(hydroxystearic acid) having 4 polyglycerol units; (ii) a linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 8 to 12 carbon atoms; and (iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid having 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0050] As a preferred example of polyglycerol poly(hydroxystearate) esters, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate of the following formula:

[0051]

[0052] Among them, PHS represents polyhydroxystearic acid, and IS represents isostearic acid.

[0053] This polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate compound is available, for example, from EVONIKGOLDSCHMIDT under the name GPS for sale.

[0054] The poly(hydroxystearic acid) and polyglycerol esters of carboxylic acids according to the invention can advantageously be used as a mixture with other esters of polyglycerol, in particular polyglycerol comprising 3 polyglycerol units, and at least one fatty acid, in particular oleic acid.

[0055] Still more preferably, the composition according to the invention will use the 17MB sells a mixture of Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (and) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate.

[0056] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 4.0% by weight and more preferably from 1.5% to 3.5% by weight of poly(hydroxystearic acid) as defined above and of at least one polyglycerol ester of a carboxylic acid.

[0057] Polyglycerol fatty acid esters

[0058] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises a polyglycerol containing from 4 to 15 glycerol units and at least one ester of at least one, in particular one, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0059] Preferably, the one or more polyglycerol fatty acid esters are chosen from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol containing 4 to 12 glycerol units, preferably 4 to 10 glycerol units, with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 20 carbon atoms, even better still 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0060] As examples of fatty acids suitable for the synthesis of the polyglycerol esters of at least one fatty acid according to the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester(s) are chosen from esters derived from the esterification reaction between a polyglycerol comprising 4 to 5 glycerol units, in particular comprising 4 glycerol units, and at least one aliphatic monocarboxylic acid comprising an alkyl chain having 16 to 20 carbon atoms, for example a stearoyl chain and / or an isostearyl chain.

[0062] By way of example, mention may be made of esters derived from the reaction of polyglyceryl-4 (a glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and isostearic acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 isostearate), for example under the name GI34 is an ester sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

[0063] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight and more preferably from 1.0% to 4.0% by weight of at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol ester present in the composition according to the invention and as defined above has an HLB measured at 25°C of less than or equal to 8.0, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0, more preferably from 2.0 to 8.0.

[0065] HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) is the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part of a surfactant molecule. This time is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" published by ICI Americas Inc in 1984. The HLB of one or more surfactants used according to the invention can be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0066] As mentioned above, the weight ratio of the at least one polyglycerol ester of poly(hydroxystearic acid) and the polyglycerol ester of carboxylic acid / at least one fatty acid is strictly greater than 0.7. It is preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, more preferably greater than or equal to 1. In particular, the weight ratio of the at least one polyglycerol ester of poly(hydroxystearic acid) and the polyglycerol ester of carboxylic acid / at least one fatty acid may be between 0.8 and 2.0.

[0067] Trihydroxystearate

[0068] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises trihydroxystearin (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin).

[0069] Trihydroxystearin is a compound of formula (I):

[0070]

[0071] It is a wax, ie a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, in particular greater than 60°C.

[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a wax can be measured with a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the one sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

[0073] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.01% to 2.0% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of trihydroxystearin relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Fat phase

[0075] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous fatty phase.

[0076] The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0077] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0078] The fatty phase suitable for preparing the compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0079] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of one or more silicone oils, in particular less than 1.0% by weight of one or more silicone oils, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of one or more silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is free of one or more silicone oils.

[0080] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of one or more silicone oils, and in particular free of cyclopentasiloxane.

[0081] Compositions comprising limited amounts of one or more silicone oils are advantageously more natural, but also thinner, less tacky and less rough to the touch, with a softer finish than compositions comprising 2 wt. % of one or more silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0083] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0084] The term "nonvolatile" means a substance having a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure that is not zero and is less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13Pa) of oil.

[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0086] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0087] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0088] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

[0089] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour when in contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. A volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature, in particular has a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular has a vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 The vapor pressure is preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0090] Particular mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as those listed by Sasol under the corresponding numberings 12-97 and 14-97 n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixture, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) (obtained from Cognis in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155 059), and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Mention may also be made of the following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of plant origin:

[0093] -C 15 -C 19 Mixtures of branched alkanes, such as those marketed by SEPPIC under the name L15 sold;

[0094] -C 15 -C 19 Mixtures of linear and / or branched alkanes, such as those marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name L19 for sale.

[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes containing from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular undecane-tridecane mixtures, and linear and / or branched C 15 -C 19 Alkanes, especially linear and / or branched C 15 -C 19 A mixture of alkanes.

[0096] In particular, this hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 3.0% to 25.0% by weight and preferably from 7.0% to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0098] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0099] Mention may also be made of nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, fluoro oils and / or silicone oils.

[0100] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include:

[0101] - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

[0102] - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as squalane, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether,

[0103] - synthetic esters, for example oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen especially from esters of alcohols and fatty acids (e.g. cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl alcohol esters (e.g. isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate), ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters (e.g. isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate), alcohol or polyol ricinoleic acid esters, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters (e.g. isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate), isononanoic acid esters (e.g. isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate), oleyl erucate, lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl caprate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl behenate;

[0104] - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

[0105] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol,

[0106] -C 12 -C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof,

[0107] - carbonates, for example dicaprylyl carbonate,

[0108] - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone, and

[0109] - phenyl silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxyalkoxysilyl diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethylalkoxysilyl silicate, polydimethicone or phenyl trimethicone (viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt), trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof;

[0110] And also mixtures of these various oils.

[0111] In particular, the composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, in particular chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0112] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" means an oil having a solubility parameter δ at 25°C. a Equal to 0(J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 of oil.

[0113] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: “The three-dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0114] According to the Hansen space:

[0115] -δ D Characterize the London dispersion forces generated by the dipole formation induced during molecular impact;

[0116] -δ p Characterize the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0117] -δ h Characterize specific interactions (e.g., hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0118] -δ a From the equation δ a =(δp 2 +δh 2 ) 1 / 2 Sure.

[0119] Parameter δ p , δ h , δ D and δ a In (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 express.

[0120] Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based containing no oxygen atoms.

[0121] Preferably, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it can be chosen from:

[0122] - liquid paraffin or its derivatives,

[0123] -Liquid petroleum jelly,

[0124] - polybutene, for example Indopol H-100 (molar mass or M W =965g / mol), Indopol H-300(M W=1340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (M W =2160 g / mol),

[0125] - polyisobutene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as those sold by Nippon Oil Fats Panalane H-300E (M W =1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 (M sold or manufactured by Synteal W = 6000 g / mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 (M sold or manufactured by Witco W =1000 g / mol),

[0126] - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutylene copolymers, for example Indopol L-14,

[0127] - polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, such as Puresyn 10 (M W =723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (M W =9200 g / mol),

[0128] - and mixtures thereof.

[0129] The non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, in particular containing from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

[0130] Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters or triesters.

[0131] The ester oils may in particular be hydroxylated.

[0132] The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be selected from:

[0133] - monoesters containing a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched one, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 18, for example Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 To C 152-octyldodecyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl succinate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, 2-octyldodecyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl sebacate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyol octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate or isoamyl laurate. Preferably, they are esters of formula 1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched one, and R1 and R2 are such that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 18. Preferably, the esters contain a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms. Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or 2-octyldodecyl pivalate;

[0134] - diesters, in particular containing a total of 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular containing a total of 18 to 50 carbon atoms. In particular, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols may be used, preferably for example diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, for example neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular the compounds sold for example by the company Akzo under the trade reference Dermol DGDIS;

[0135] - triesters, in particular containing a total of 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, triesters of tricarboxylic acids, for example triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids, for example polyglycerol-2-triisostearate;

[0136] - tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number in the range from 35 to 70, for example pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of monocarboxylic acids, for example pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri(2-decyl)myristate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or also pentaerythritol tetra(2-decyl)myristate;

[0137] - polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular polyesters such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made in this regard of the polymers sold under the name Viscoplast 14436H by Biosynthis (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

[0138] - esters and polyesters of diol dimers and mono- or dicarboxylic acids, for example esters of diol dimers and fatty acids and esters of diol dimers and dicarboxylic acid dimers, in particular which can be derived from unsaturated fatty acids, especially unsaturated C8 to C 34 , especially C 12 To C 22 , especially C 16 To C 20 And more particularly C 18 Dicarboxylic acid dimers obtained by dimerization of fatty acids, for example esters of dilinoleic acid and dilinoleyl glycol dimers, are available from Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan and those that are sold;

[0139] - vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as those sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex V216) by the company ISP (M W =7300 g / mol);

[0140] - hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils, such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may be made in particular of saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, triheptanoin, tricaprylin and C 18-36 acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois under the reference DUB TGI 24; and unsaturated triglycerides, such as castor oil, olive oil, sanguinea seed oil and bacas fruit oil;

[0141] - and mixtures thereof.

[0142] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms (for example dicaprylyl ether), carbonates (for example dicaprylyl carbonate), fatty acid triglycerides, in particular saturated ones, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, and esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being such that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as isoamyl laurate.

[0143] More preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms (for example dicaprylyl ether), carbonates (for example dicaprylyl carbonate), fatty acid triglycerides, in particular saturated, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0144] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 6.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 12.0% to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, other than trihydroxystearin, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin, montan wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, the products sold under the name Trefil or BY29 by the company Dow Corning, or the products sold under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

[0146] As fatty substance, the composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax.

[0147] Such waxes may be selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, montanol, beeswax alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

[0149] As fatty substance, the composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one butter, in particular a vegetable butter.

[0150] The one or more vegetable oils suitable for use in the present invention are preferably selected from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, star palm butter, coconut oil, almond oil, sal oil and urucum butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular shea butter.

[0151] These fatty substances can be chosen in different ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance.

[0153] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0154] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one, in particular two, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and one non-volatile ester oil.

[0155] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, and in particular at least one mixture of linear or branched alkanes.

[0156] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one solid fatty substance, in particular fatty alcohol waxes and / or oils.

[0157] Preferably, the fatty phase content is from 5.0% to 50% by weight, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Water Phase

[0159] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase in a concentration of at least 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and dispersed in a fatty phase as defined above.

[0160] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0161] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0162] Water suitable for use in the present invention may be floral water, for example cornflower water and / or mineral water, for example Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or thermal water.

[0163] The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions of the present invention may also be volatile.

[0164] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, diols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0165] According to an alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 Polyols.

[0166] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0167] Such polyols are more particularly known for giving the compositions increased properties in terms of moisturizing. In particular, these compounds are able to penetrate into the stratum corneum and keep it moisturized.

[0168] Preferably, the polyol according to the invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

[0169] The polyols suitable for the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds carrying at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0170] Suitable polyols for formulating the compositions according to the invention are especially those which contain, in particular, 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0171] The polyol may be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, isoprene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0172] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0173] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyol, in particular chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0174] When present, the polyol(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 20% by weight, better still from 3.0% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5.0% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The aqueous phase may also contain stabilizers, such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

[0176] The aqueous phase may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with the aqueous phase, such as a gelling agent, a film-forming polymer, a thickening agent or a surfactant, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 85% by weight and more preferably from 65% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] additive

[0179] Protective agent

[0180] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one protective agent.

[0181] Of course, the protective agent or agents optionally present in the composition according to the invention are chosen so as not to impair the properties of the composition, in particular with regard to stability.

[0182] Preservatives can be used to reduce microbial proliferation and increase the shelf life of compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, especially compositions packaged in cans.

[0183] The protectant may be selected from antibiotics, antifungals and mixtures thereof.

[0184] Such protective agents are, for example, alcohols, glycols, parabens, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, salicylic acid, sodium salicylate, phenoxyethanol or chlorphenesin.

[0185] More generally, these protective agents are described in the publication “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, Seventh Edition, Volume 2, pages 1654 and 1655.

[0186] Antimicrobial agents that may be mentioned include, for example, the following active agents: β-lactam derivatives, quinolone derivatives, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline and its salts (hydrochloride), erythromycin and its salts (zinc salt, etoposide, stearate), amikacin and its salts (sulfate), 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 3,4,4'-triclocarban, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline and its salts (hydrochloride), capreomycin and its salts (sulfate). salt), chlorhexidine and its salts (gluconate, hydrochloride), chlortetracycline and its salts (hydrochloride), oxytetracycline and its salts (hydrochloride), clindamycin and its salts (hydrochloride), ethambutol and its salts (hydrochloride), hexamidine and its salts (isothionate), metronidazole and its salts (hydrochloride), pentamidine and its salts (hydrochloride), gentamicin and its salts (sulfate), kanamycin and its salts (sulfate), lincomycin and its salts (hydrochloride), methacycline and its salts (hydrochloride), hexamethylenetetramine and its salts (hydrochloride), urate, mandelate), minocycline and its salts (hydrochloride), neomycin and its salts (sulfate), netilmicin and its salts (sulfate), paromomycin and its salts (sulfate), streptomycin and its salts (sulfate), tobramycin and its salts (sulfate), miconazole and its salts (hydrochloride), amantadine and its salts (sulfate, hydrochloride), hydroxymethyloctopirox, para-chloro-meta-xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione, clotrimazole, salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (or octanoyl salicylic acid), benzoyl peroxide compounds, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol, lidocaine hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, octoxyglycerol, caprylyl glycine (or capryloyl glycine), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of protective agents comprising at least one alcohol (preferably ethanol), at least one glycol (preferably pentanediol), salicylic acid, potassium sorbate and phytic acid.

[0188] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1.0% to 12% by weight of protective agent relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0% to 9.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0% to 9.0% by weight.

[0189] Surfactants

[0190] The composition according to the invention may comprise an emulsifying surfactant, preferably nonionic, different from the polyglycerol esters defined above.

[0191] Of course, the emulsifying surfactant(s) optionally present in the composition according to the invention are chosen so as not to impair the properties of the composition, in particular with regard to stability.

[0192] Examples of emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include sorbitol, other than polyglycerol, alkyl esters or ethers of polyols or sugars.

[0193] Examples of polyol alkyl esters that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for example PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, for example marketed under the name Products sold at P135.

[0194] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include sorbitan isostearate, for example the esters sold under the name 987, or sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, for example sold by ICI under the name 986 Products and mixtures thereof sold.

[0195] Examples of emulsifying surfactants that may also be mentioned include silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols or silicone elastomers.

[0196] Examples of dimethicone copolyols that may be mentioned include those sold under the brand Dimethicone copolyols sold under the INCI name Dimethicone (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone by the company SHINETSU and under the name C, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name DC5200 FormulationAid by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyols, such as cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, such as sold under the name Abil 90 Products sold by EVONIKGOLDSCHMIDT.

[0197] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from the group consisting of: C8-C 24 , especially C 12 -C 22 Glycerol esters of fatty acids, for example glycerol ester of stearic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate).

[0198] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 2.0% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant different from the polyglycerol ester defined above, in particular glycerol ester of stearic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 1.0% by weight.

[0199] Fillers

[0200] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular chosen from those conventionally used in care and / or makeup compositions.

[0201] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean solid particles of any form, colourless or white, inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic, in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0202] Of course, these fillers are used in appropriate contents and under appropriate conditions so as not to impair the properties of the composition.

[0203] These fillers can give softness, a matte effect and uniformity of the make-up result to the compositions containing them. Furthermore, these fillers can advantageously counteract various aggressive factors, such as sebum or sweat.

[0204] As illustrations of these fillers, there may be mentioned talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, e.g. (Nobel Industrie), acrylic copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microspheres (e.g. from Toshiba ), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane powder, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Particles in the form of hollow sphere sections can also be used, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

[0205] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler, in particular chosen from lauroyl lysine, talc, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0206] In particular, such fillers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially 1.0% to 7.0% by weight, in particular 1.5% to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] Colorants

[0208] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] For obvious reasons, this amount is susceptible to considerable variation with respect to the intensity of the color effect desired and the color intensity provided by the colorant in question, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0210] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of colorant relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] As indicated above, colorants suitable for use in the present invention may be water-soluble, but may also be fat-soluble.

[0212] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or in a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0213] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may especially be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), magenta, copper chlorophyll, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus and elderberry), caramel and riboflavin.

[0214] Examples of water-soluble dyes are beetroot juice and caramel.

[0215] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an oil phase or in a solvent miscible with a fatty substance and is capable of imparting color.

[0216] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for example DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0217] The coloured particulate materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in which they are contained.

[0218] They may in particular be pigments, mother-of-pearl and / or particles with metallic hues.

[0219] The term "pigments" is understood to mean white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles which are insoluble in aqueous solution and which are intended to color and / or opacify the compositions containing them.

[0220] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 25% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, it may comprise at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight and more preferably at least 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] Pigments can be white or colored and inorganic and / or organic.

[0223] As mineral pigments which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] They may also be pigments with a structure which may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silicon dioxide type. Such pigments are sold, for example, by the company Chemicals and Catalysts under the references Coverleaf NS or JS and have a contrast ratio of around 30.

[0225] They may also be pigments with a structure that may be of the silica microsphere type containing, for example, iron oxide. An example of a pigment with this structure is the pigment sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0226] Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide.

[0227] The term "nacre" is understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shells or alternatively synthesized, which have a color effect via optical interference.

[0228] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed.

[0230] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural dyes or bismuth oxychloride.

[0231] Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the nacres based on Prestige mica sold by the company Eckart and the nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical.

[0232] The mother-of-pearl may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or a lighter colour.

[0233] Advantageously, the nacre according to the invention is mica coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and with bismuth oxychloride.

[0234] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “particles having a metallic hue” means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish allow it to reflect incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner.

[0235] The particles with a metallic hue that can be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:

[0236] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative;

[0237] - particles comprising a mono-material or multi-material organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer having a metallic hue, comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and

[0238] - a mixture of said particles.

[0239] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, mention may be made of, for example, Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g. bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

[0240] The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0241] Examples of such particles which may be mentioned include aluminum particles, for example those produced by the company Siberline under the name Starbrite 1200 and by Eckart under the name Those which are sold, and glass particles coated with a metal layer, are described in particular in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0242] Hydrophobic treatment of colorants

[0243] As mentioned above, the powdered colorants can be completely or partially surface treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them more compatible with the oil phase of the composition of the present invention, especially to make them have good wettability with the oil. Therefore, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oil phase.

[0244] Hydrophobically treated pigments are described, inter alia, in document EP-A-1 086 683.

[0245] The hydrophobic treatment agent can be selected from silicones, such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0246] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the abovementioned compounds particularly denotes an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0247] Active Agent

[0248] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional cosmetic active agent.

[0249] In particular, the additional cosmetic active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent and / or one hydrophobic active agent.

[0250] As cosmetic active agents, examples that may be mentioned include moisturizers, depigmenting agents, peeling agents, humectants, anti-aging agents; mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins and their derivatives, antioxidant compounds, sunscreens and mixtures thereof.

[0251] The one or more additional active agents may be chosen especially from:

[0252] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters;

[0253] - humectants, such as urea, hydroxyurea, glycerol, polyglycerol, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside and xyloyl glucoside;

[0254] - Antioxidant compounds;

[0255] - anti-aging actives, such as hyaluronic acid compounds and salicylic acid compounds;

[0256] - sunscreens; and

[0257] - mixtures thereof.

[0258] Such active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0259] Intended use of the composition

[0260] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for keratin materials, in particular keratin materials of the body or face, preferably of the face.

[0261] These compositions may constitute a cleansing, protecting, treating or caring cream for the face, hands or body, for example a day cream, a night cream, a make-up cream, a foundation cream or a sunscreen.

[0262] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably the skin of the face.

[0263] In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular the skin of the face.

[0264] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular keratin materials of the body or face, preferably of the face.

[0265] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic base composition for makeup. The composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation or a repair cream.

[0266] Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0267] The invention therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.

[0268] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

[0269] Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

[0270] Cosmetic methods for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, are non-therapeutic.

[0271] In particular, the composition according to the invention can be used to combat the signs of skin ageing.

[0272] The present application therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for combating signs of skin ageing.

[0273] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0274] Unless otherwise stated, the expressions “between and,” “including from to,” “formed from to,” and “ranging from to ” should be understood to be inclusive.

[0275] The present invention is explained in more detail by the following examples. Unless otherwise stated, the amounts shown are expressed as weight percentages.

[0276] Example

[0277] Measurement and evaluation methods

[0278] Stability measurement

[0279] The first method of evaluating stability is to observe the composition over time by comparison to a reference.

[0280] Instability can be detected by evaluating salting out, creaming, coalescence, filming on the surface, marbling, etc.

[0281] Changes in texture, appearance, color, and odor may also be evaluated.

[0282] In particular, the compositions were observed after being stored at a temperature of about 45°C for 2 months.

[0283] Another method of evaluating stability can be done by measuring viscosity.

[0284] The viscosity of the product is measured with a Rheomat 35RM 180 viscometer according to the CID-012-02 method. The measurement of the torque required to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity one wants to determine is carried out using an immersed element (spindle or measuring body) rotating at a selected and constant speed (5 rpm). The measurement is carried out at 25° C. with the product to be analyzed / cup / measuring body assembly.

[0285] The choice of spindle for carrying out the measurement depends on the viscosity of the product to be analyzed:

[0286] -M1: emulsion;

[0287] -M2: liquid milk;

[0288] -M3: cream, thick milk;

[0289] -M4: thick cream;

[0290] - Penetrometer: balsamic texture (force exerted in the product in grams).

[0291] The volume of the substance introduced into the cup of the rotor is 25 ml. The stand and the measuring body of the system are placed in the machine for the measurement.

[0292] It is measured on a Rheomat at 25° C. Depending on the viscosity of the fluid, several spindles can be used.

[0293] The results are expressed in Deviation Units (DU). The standard deviation for viscosity values ​​less than or equal to 50 DU is ±5 DU, and the standard deviation for viscosity values ​​greater than 50 is ±7 DU.

[0294] Yet another method for evaluating stability involves viewing the formulation microscopically under non-polarized light at a magnification of x100 and x400 if necessary.

[0295] This allows the fineness of the droplets and / or the absence of clusters and / or the presence of crystals to be assessed.

[0296] Finally, the stability of the composition can be evaluated by examining the composition for defects after several cycles of temperature change.

[0297] Each cycle consists of the following steps:

[0298] a) maintaining the composition at 20° C. for 6 hours;

[0299] b) lowering the temperature to -20°C over a period of 6 hours;

[0300] c) maintaining the composition at -20°C for 6 hours; and

[0301] d) The temperature was increased to 20°C over a period of 6 hours.

[0302] Ten cycles were performed and the composition was evaluated for defects between each cycle.

[0303] The appearance of defects between the first and fifth cycles (inclusive) indicates significant instability of the composition.

[0304] Evaluation of sensory properties

[0305] The sensory properties of the composition can be evaluated by a panel of 30 persons authorized and trained to apply the composition daily for 10 days.

[0306] In particular, tackiness, greasiness and glidance to the skin during and after application were determined.

[0307] Example 1

[0308] The anti-aging care compositions 1 and 2 for face in the form of water-in-oil emulsions according to the present invention were prepared in the weight proportions detailed in the following Table 1. The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0309]

[0310] Table 1

[0311] Protocol for preparing the composition

[0312] The compositions were prepared in a Minilab reactor according to the protocol described in detail below.

[0313] Place Phase A in a tank and heat at 75°C until the stearyl glyceryl is dissolved with paddle stirring, then reduce the temperature to 53°C.

[0314] Meanwhile, phase C was weighed and heated at 50°C in a deflocculator until completely homogenized.

[0315] Phase B was divided into two parts by pouring 300 g into a beaker. B was added to the tank at a temperature of 50-55°C and then stirred for 10 minutes with the help of a paddle at 50 rpm and with the help of a rotor at 4000 rpm.

[0316] The first portion of phase B was added to the tank via the inlet cone within 5 minutes at 50-55°C and then homogenized under a vacuum of -0.5 bar with the help of a paddle at 70 rpm and with the help of a rotor at 4000 rpm for about 3 minutes.

[0317] Cooling was started in a water bath at 20° C. and stirring was carried out under a vacuum of −0.5 bar with the aid of a paddle at 40 rpm and with the aid of a rotor at 2000 rpm.

[0318] When the temperature is below 30°C, the second part of phase B is incorporated dropwise from the beaker via the inlet cone within 15 minutes, stirring at a vacuum of -0.5 bar with the aid of a paddle at 70 rpm and with the aid of a rotor at 4000 rpm.

[0319] Next, the filler was incorporated via the top of the tank within about 10 seconds with stirring at 60 rpm with the aid of a paddle, then scraped, and then stirred for 5 minutes at a vacuum of -0.5 bar with the aid of a paddle at 70 rpm and with the aid of a rotor at 4000 rpm.

[0320] The alcoholic phase was incorporated via the inlet cone within about 5 minutes and then homogenized for 5 minutes under a vacuum of -0.5 bar with the aid of a paddle at 70 rpm and with the aid of a rotor at 4000 rpm.

[0321] Comparison and Results

[0322] The sensory properties of formulations 1 and 2 according to the invention were evaluated by a panel as detailed above and compared with those of the commercial compositions listed in Table 2 below.

[0323] Composition Product Name type Formula 3 outside the present invention Lancome Firming Series Oil-in-water emulsion Formula 4 outside the present invention Lancome ABC Day Cream Oil-in-water emulsion Formula 5 outside the present invention OAP Rejuvenation Series Oil-in-water emulsion Formula 6 outside the present invention SKII RNA 3D Refined Series Oil-in-water emulsion Formula 7 outside the present invention Estee Lauder Smart Lift Series Oil-in-water emulsion

[0324] Table 2

[0325] Formulations 3 to 7 outside the invention differ from the compositions according to the invention by virtue of their form of presentation, since these are oil-in-water emulsions.

[0326] Furthermore, these formulas do not contain any polyglycerol esters according to the invention and also do not contain glyceryl hydroxystearate.

[0327] result

[0328] Formula 1 according to the invention allows to obtain long-lasting skin hydration, a radiant and regenerated complexion, concealing fine lines and signs of fatigue. The skin looks younger and healthier.

[0329] Compared to formulation 3 outside the present invention, formulation 1 according to the present invention is lighter and provides better anti-aging effects.

[0330] Compared with the formula 4 outside the present invention, the formula 1 according to the present invention performs better in terms of greasy effect during application, stickiness during application, and greasy surface on the skin. In addition, compared with the formula 5 outside the present invention, the formula 1 according to the present invention has a lower slip when applied.

[0331] Formula 2 according to the invention is not very greasy nor very sticky. In particular, it is less sticky when applied than Formula 6 outside the invention, and less greasy when applied than Formula 7 outside the invention.

[0332] Furthermore, formulations 1 and 2 according to the invention are stable.

[0333] Example 2

[0334] The anti-aging care compositions 8 to 12 for face in the form of water-in-oil emulsions according to the present invention were prepared in the weight proportions detailed in Table 3. The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0335]

[0336] Table 3

[0337] result

[0338] Formulations 8 to 12 according to the invention are stable and have good organoleptic properties.

[0339] In particular, Formulation 9 had good slip and provided a soft surface after application.

[0340] Example 3

[0341] An anti-aging care composition for the face 13 in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion outside the present invention, in particular in which the weight ratio of at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and a polyglycerol ester of a carboxylic acid / polyglycerol fatty acid ester is equal to 0.7, is prepared according to the weight proportions detailed in the following Table 4. The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0342]

[0343] Table 4

[0344] result

[0345] Formulation 13 was not stable after the recirculating oven treatment and phase separated.

[0346] Example 4

[0347] Anti-aging care compositions 14 to 16 for the face in the form of water-in-oil emulsions outside the invention, in particular not comprising polyglycerol fatty acid esters as defined according to the invention, were prepared according to the weight proportions detailed in Table 5 below. The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0348]

[0349] Table 5

[0350] result

[0351] Formulations 14 to 16 did not show satisfactory stability, especially when evaluated by periodic studies. Furthermore, after storage at 45°C for 2 months, phase separation of the compositions was observed.

[0352] Example 5

[0353] Anti-aging care compositions 17 to 20 for face in the form of water-in-oil emulsions outside the present invention, in particular not comprising polyglyceryl fatty acid esters or hydroxystearic acid glyceryl as defined in the present invention, were prepared according to the weight proportions detailed in Table 6 below.

[0354] The values ​​are expressed as weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0355]

[0356] Table 6

[0357] result

[0358] Formulations 17 to 20 not according to the invention are stable but do not exhibit satisfactory sensory properties. In particular, formulations 18 to 20 leave a greasy and shiny surface after application on the skin.

[0359] Furthermore, formulation 18 resulted in plaque formation and composition 20 had a film-forming appearance. Furthermore, these compositions could not be stored in a satisfactory manner.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: - at least one continuous fat phase; - at least one aqueous phase, whose concentration is at least 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and which is dispersed in the fatty phase; - 1.5% to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and at least one polyglycerol ester of a carboxylic acid chosen from Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate; - 1.0% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one polyglycerol ester of at least one fatty acid chosen from esters resulting from the esterification reaction between a polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol units and isostearic acid; and - 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of trihydroxystearin relative to the total weight of the composition; The weight ratio of the at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and the polyglycerol ester of a carboxylic acid / the polyglycerol ester of at least one fatty acid is strictly greater than 0.

7.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 5.0% to 50% by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising less than 2.0% by weight of one or more silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil selected from the group consisting of volatile linear alkanes containing 11 to 13 carbon atoms, and linear and / or branched C 15 -C 19 Alkane.

5. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from the group consisting of synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, carbonates, fatty acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of claim 1, comprising 50% to 90% by weight of an aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one protective agent.

8. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant different from the polyglycerol ester.

9. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one filler.

10. The composition of claim 1 further comprising at least one polyol.

11. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The composition has a viscosity ranging from 0.1 to 10 Pa.s.

12. A cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined in claim 1.

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