Four-colour jacquard knit fabric, knitting method and garment made of the fabric

By using a four-color jacquard knitting method, the problems of color leakage and yarn breakage in existing technologies are solved, achieving a color-leak-free effect for loose-fitting garments. Furthermore, it eliminates the need to switch yarns or cut floats, making it suitable for producing loose-fitting garments without side seams.

CN115897029BActive Publication Date: 2025-11-25GUANGDONG FORWARD DENIM
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202211686965.1
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-12-27
Publication Date
2025-11-25
Estimated Expiration
2042-12-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing technologies are prone to color leakage and fiber breakage when weaving large color block patterns, and it is difficult to make loose-fitting garments that do not leak color.

Method used

Using a four-color jacquard knitting method, each color yarn is combined with a base yarn in one row of the seamless underwear machine and knitted into the first unit in the knitting direction. Each color yarn has only one loop in the same column, and the other color yarns form tucks or floats. The yarns that do not participate in forming color blocks break the continuous floats on the back of the fabric with tucks, and the looped yarns cover the floats and tucked yarns on the front.

Benefits of technology

It has achieved the production of loose-fitting jacquard fabrics with pure colors and no color leakage in large color blocks, enabling the production of loose-fitting garments without side seams.

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Abstract

The application discloses a four-color jacquard knitted fabric, a weaving method and a garment made of the fabric, and belongs to the field of textiles. According to the weaving direction, four rows of colored yarns are woven into a first unit, and a plurality of first units are woven into the fabric. In the first unit, each color of the colored yarns occupies a row, and only one color of the colored yarns on the same column forms a loop, and the colored yarns of the remaining colors form tuck stitches or form floats. For the same colored yarn, tuck stitches are formed every first needle number after forming the float. The yarn does not need to be switched, and the float does not need to be cut. Every four rows of colored yarns form a row of stitches on the actually obtained fabric. In the large color block area, the colored yarns that do not participate in forming the color block do not form loops, and the colored yarns that form loops shield the colored yarns of the floats and tuck stitches on the front surface, do not need to rely on elastic contraction to reduce color leakage, can weave the jacquard fabric with relatively pure colors at the pattern color block, and can make the tube fabric into a garment after being taken off the machine and slightly cutting and sewing, so that the loose garment without side sewing lines and color leakage can be made.
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Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a four-color jacquard knitted fabric, a weaving method and a garment made of the fabric, and belongs to the field of textiles. BACKGROUND

[0002] The current single-sided seamless underwear machine weaving color pattern can be divided into two categories: one is the cutting method, and the other is the hidden thread method.

[0003] The cutting method can be divided into two ways. The first way uses a color of face yarn and a different color of added yarn, uses an added yarn guide, and allows the color of a certain path to be selected between the added yarn color and the face yarn color. However, when weaving large color block patterns with this method, according to the distribution of the pattern, the yarn of a certain color will not be knitted multiple times, resulting in excessively long floats that need to be cut off with the blades of the knitting machine. A large number of broken ends will appear on the back, which need to be trimmed by hand later, and it is difficult to completely remove them. The second way uses multiple colors of face yarn, and directly changes the face yarn guide to change the face yarn to a different color. This method produces fewer broken ends than the first method, but the patterns that can be knitted are limited, and only horizontal stripes can be made.

[0004] The hidden thread method is a more practical color yarn weaving method. By selecting whether to pad the face yarn on the seamless underwear machine, a certain needle is allowed to show the color of the base yarn, while the face yarn is hidden in the form of a float on the back. The fabric made in this way has only two colors. Based on this knitting method, further, different colored yarns are inserted into each path of the seamless underwear machine (usually an odd path is inserted with one color and an even path is inserted with another color), and when a certain needle needs a color of yarn, the yarn is looped on the needle, while the other colored yarns are hidden in the form of a float on the back. The disadvantage of the hidden thread method is that when weaving large color block patterns, it is impossible to avoid the leakage of mixed colors. This is because a large color block means that only one color of yarn is used continuously over a long distance, and the remaining yarns are hidden on the back. These hidden yarns, like in the cutting method, are floats that need to be cut off if they are too long. Instead of cutting off these yarns, the hidden thread method makes these yarns loop extra once every certain float length, thereby shortening the length of each float. These extra loops make the color of yarn that should be hidden on the back appear intermittently on the front, disrupting the continuity of the large color block, and the color of yarn that should be hidden on the back can be seen from the front of the fabric. The more different colors of yarns used in the fabric, the more obvious the color leakage. In order to suppress this color leakage effect, the hidden thread method generally uses yarns with strong elasticity, which uses the natural elastic shrinkage of the fabric to reduce the area exposed on the surface of each loop, but this also limits the hidden thread method to making some body-hugging garments such as sports underwear and yoga wear, and cannot be used to make garments with less color leakage and more comfort. SUMMARY

[0005] In order to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art, the present application provides a four-color jacquard knitted fabric, a knitting method and a garment made of the fabric, the garment has various patterns, and no color is leaked when loose products are made.

[0006] The present application solves the technical problems by adopting the technical solutions of:

[0007] In the first aspect, the present application provides a knitting method of a four-color jacquard knitted fabric, four different color yarns are used, each color yarn is combined with a base yarn in one path of a seamless underwear machine, four rows of the color yarns are knitted into a first unit according to the knitting direction of the seamless underwear machine, and a plurality of the first units are knitted into a fabric.

[0008] In the first unit, the color yarns of each color occupy one row respectively.

[0009] In the first unit, the color yarns of only one color in the same column form loops, and the color yarns of the remaining colors form tuck stitches or form floats.

[0010] For the same color yarn, a tuck stitch is formed every first number of stitches after a float is formed.

[0011] The knitting method provided by the present application does not need to switch yarns and cut off floats throughout the process, four rows of color yarns are knitted to form one row of stitches on the actually obtained fabric, in a large color block area, the color yarns that do not participate in forming the color block do not form loops, but break the continuous floats with tuck stitches on the back of the fabric, the color yarns that form loops shield the floats and tuck stitches on the front, and there is no need to rely on elastic shrinkage to reduce color leakage, so that a loose jacquard fabric with relatively pure colors at the pattern color block can be knitted.

[0012] Further, at least one loop is formed between adjacent tuck stitches in the same column. If, in addition to the color yarn that forms a loop, the remaining three color yarns form tuck stitches in the same column, i.e., three consecutive tuck stitches appear in the longitudinal direction, the knitting needle needs to take in four color yarns at the same time, which may easily cause damage to the knitting needle, and on the other hand, obvious longitudinal stripes may appear on the front, which destroys the uniform appearance of the large color block, the fabric is also prone to become uneven, and the hand feeling of the fabric is affected. Therefore, at least one loop is formed between adjacent tuck stitches in the same column, and the knitting needle takes in at most two color yarns at the same time, which is beneficial to the uniform appearance of the fabric pattern in the same color block and the smooth hand feeling of the fabric.

[0013] Further, the first number of stitches is 3, 4, 5 or 6. If the first number of stitches is too short, the yarns are easily damaged by the knitting machine, and if the first number of stitches is too long, the back is easily hooked. In addition, if the first number of stitches is 2, it is difficult to avoid that the knitting needle takes in three color yarns at the same time; and the maximum first number of stitches can only be 6, which is also beneficial to uniformly distribute the tuck stitches and make the fabric smooth.

[0014] Further, the color yarns are finer than the yarns suitable for the machine gauge of the seamless underwear machine. Because of the multiple tuck stitches, the yarns are selected to be finer than the conventional yarns used in the same machine gauge machine knitting plain weft, otherwise the needles cannot accommodate the thicker and more yarns.

[0015] In some embodiments, the color yarns are cotton yarns, and the color yarns have a fineness of less than 0.6 times the fineness of the yarns suitable for the machine gauge of the seamless underwear machine.

[0016] In some embodiments, the color yarns are chemical filament yarns, and the color yarns have a fineness of less than 0.8 times the fineness of the yarns suitable for the machine gauge of the seamless underwear machine.

[0017] In some embodiments, the ground yarns are spandex, have a draft ratio of 2.0, and have a fineness of less than 4.5 Tex. Each of the color yarns is combined with one ground yarn in one path of the seamless underwear machine, meaning that when one color yarn tucks, the needles simultaneously take in two color yarns and two ground yarns, so the fineness of the ground yarns needs to be controlled to be less than 4.5 Tex, and the method of the present application forms one row of the actual product with four rows of knitting, so the actual product has four elastic yarns in one row, and too much elasticity is not conducive to making loose clothing. After testing, spandex with a draft ratio of 2.0 is needed, which not only meets the characteristics of the seamless underwear machine that the pulling mechanism needs to cooperate with elastic yarns, but also avoids excessive shrinkage of the fabric that cannot be made into loose clothing without side seams.

[0018] Further, the color yarns are non-elastic yarns.

[0019] In a second aspect, the present application provides a four-color jacquard knitted fabric knitted by the method of the first aspect. The fabric shows pure colors in continuous color blocks without color leakage.

[0020] In a third aspect, the present application provides a four-color jacquard garment made by cutting and sewing the four-color jacquard knitted fabric of the second aspect. The barrel diameter of the seamless underwear machine is small, and the blank barrel after being taken out is similar to the girth of a normal person, so that the barrel cloth after being taken out can be made into a garment by cutting and sewing, and a loose garment without side seams can be made.

[0021] The four-color jacquard knitted fabric of the present application has the following beneficial effects: the four-color jacquard knitted fabric knitting method of the present application does not need to switch yarns and cut off floating threads throughout the process, and one row of stitches in the actual obtained fabric is formed by knitting four rows of color yarns. In the large color block area, the color yarns not participating in the formation of the color block do not form loops, and the color yarns forming loops block the floating threads and tuck stitches on the front side, without relying on elastic shrinkage to reduce color leakage. The method can knit jacquard fabric with relatively pure colors in the pattern color block area, and the barrel cloth after being taken out can be made into a garment by cutting and sewing, and a loose garment without side seams and color leakage can be made.

[0022] Other features and advantages of the present application will be set forth in the description that follows, and in part will be apparent from the description, or can be learned by practice of the application. The purposes and other advantages of the present application will be realized and attained by the structure particularly pointed out in the written description and claims hereof as well as the appended drawings. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0023] Figure 1 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application.

[0024] Figure 2 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 1 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application.

[0025] Figure 3 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application.

[0026] Figure 4 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 3

[0027] Figure 5 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 4

[0028] is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 6 Figure 4 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application.

[0029] Figure 7 Figure 4 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application.

[0030] Figure 8 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 3

[0031] Figure 9 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 8

[0032] Figure 10 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 8

[0033] Figure 11 is one of the preset patterns provided by embodiments of the present application. Figure 8 DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0034] ​​​​​​​Embodiments of the present application are described in detail below with reference to the attached drawing figures, wherein the same or like component having the same or similar designations are used to designate throughout the associated figures the same or like components or elements having the same or similar functionalities. The embodiments described below are merely exemplary for the purposes of explanation and are not intended to limit the application, which is limited only by the claims that follow this detailed description.

[0035] The following disclosure provides many different embodiments, or examples, for implementing different structures of the present application. For the purpose of simplicity, the elements and settings of the particular examples below are described in some instances by, without limitation, reference to the drawings. Of course, that is merely an example, and other examples can depart from that specific description. Furthermore, the present application can refer to a number of different embodiments and / or settings in different examples. Such repetition is for the sake of simplicity and clarity and is not itself indicative of a relationship between the different embodiments and / or settings discussed.

[0036] The seamless underwear machine has a small cylinder diameter, and the blank cylinder after the machine is similar to the girth of a normal human body. The cylinder cloth after the machine can be made into clothes by slight cutting and sewing. Elastic yarns can be used to make body-fitting underwear, and non-elastic yarns can be used to make clothes without side seams. When the seamless underwear machine is combined with the traditional yarn hiding method to make patterned fabric, elastic yarns are usually used to reduce color bleeding. If the degree of elasticity of yarns of different colors is selected according to the frequency of occurrence of the colors in the preset pattern, the shrinkage of the structure of each block is different, and the final product will be distorted. In order to make the final product flat, the degrees of elasticity of yarns of different colors should be equivalent. Therefore, in order to reduce color bleeding, the seamless underwear machine can only be used to weave body-fitting clothes with jacquard patterns, and the clothes can only be cut and spliced to make loose clothes, and there are side seams in the body part of the clothes.

[0037] Reference Figure 2 In the embodiment shown, the present application provides a knitting method of four-color jacquard knitted fabric. Four different color yarns are used to weave weft-knitted fabric. Each color yarn is combined with a base yarn in one row of the seamless underwear machine. According to the knitting direction of the seamless underwear machine, four rows of color yarns are used to weave a first unit, and a plurality of first units are used to weave the fabric. In the first unit, each color yarn occupies one row; there is only one color yarn in each column, and the yarns of other colors form tuck stitches or floats. For the same color yarn, a tuck stitch is formed every first number of stitches after a float is formed.

[0038] In one embodiment, the preset pattern of the fabric designed by the designer is as shown in Figure 1 In the stitch points of the first row, from right to left, there are A color, A color, D color, D color, B color, B color, C color, and C color in sequence. The second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth rows are similar to the corresponding color blocks. Color yarn A, color yarn B, color yarn C, and color yarn D are used to implement the present application, as shown in Figure 2As shown, always in the order of color yarn A-color yarn B-color yarn C-color yarn D, in the preset pattern, the A color area, color yarn A loop, color yarn B, C, D not loop but every 3 needle loop once; in the preset pattern, the B color area, color yarn B loop, color yarn A, C, D not loop but every 3 needle loop once; in the preset pattern, the C color area, color yarn C loop, color yarn A, B, D not loop but every 3 needle loop once; in the preset pattern, the D color area, color yarn D loop, color yarn A, B, C not loop but every 3 needle loop once. Machine weaving four rows to get a row in the actual product, each first unit corresponds to a row in the actual product, such as Figure 2 The first unit in the bottom four rows corresponds to the first row of Figure 1 , Figure 2 The first unit is shown in the figure: the first row of the machine is woven with color yarn D, the second row with color yarn C, the third row with color yarn B, and the fourth row with color yarn A. From right to left, the structure of each column is as follows: color yarn D loop and color yarn A will be looped on the position of color yarn D loop in this unit; color yarn D loop and color yarn B will be looped on the position of color yarn D loop in this unit; color yarn A loop and color yarn C loop on the position of color yarn B loop in the last unit; color yarn A loop and color yarn D loop on the position of color yarn A loop; color yarn B loop and color yarn A will be looped on the position of color yarn B loop in this unit; color yarn B loop; color yarn C loop; color yarn C loop and color yarn D loop on the position of color yarn A loop in the last unit.

[0039] As can be seen, the color yarns not involved in the formation of the color block do not loop, but break the continuous float on the back of the fabric with loop, and the looped color yarns block the float and the looped color yarns on the front. Without relying on elastic shrinkage to reduce color bleeding, loose four-color jacquard fabric (blank cylinder) can be made, without switching yarns and cutting floats throughout the process. The machine program of seamless underwear machine can be adjusted to three power positions for needle selection, without disassembling and adjusting the machine or adding equipment. The blank cylinder can be slightly cut and sewn to make clothes, for example, cutting two holes on the blank cylinder to sew sleeves and a collar to make a coat, with no side seam on the body part, and the color yarns do not bleed because they are made of inelastic yarns. Therefore, clothes without side seams and loose without color bleeding can be made.

[0040] If the remaining three color yarns loop on the same column in addition to the looped color yarn, i.e. three consecutive loops vertically, the knitting needle will take four color yarns at the same time, on the one hand, it is easy to damage the knitting needle, on the other hand, it is easy to appear obvious vertical stripes on the front, destroying the uniform appearance of large color blocks, and the fabric is easy to become uneven, affecting the fabric hand feeling. In the preferred embodiment shown in Figure 2 , in the same column, there is at least one loop between adjacent loops, and the knitting needle takes at most two color yarns at the same time, which is beneficial to the uniform appearance of the fabric pattern in the same color block and the smooth fabric hand feeling.

[0041] If the first number of needles is 2, it is difficult to avoid three colors of yarns being taken by the needles at the same time because four colors of yarns are used. In the preferred embodiment, the first number of needles is 3, 4, 5 or 6. Too short interval will easily cause the yarns to be scratched by the knitting machine, and too long interval will easily cause the yarns to be hooked. In addition, the first number of needles can be at most 6, which is also convenient for the tuck stitches to be evenly distributed and not too scattered so that the fabric is relatively flat.

[0042] From Figure 2 It can be seen from the embodiment shown in the figure that the method has multiple tuck stitches, and the thickness of the yarns needs to be selected to be thinner than the conventional thickness of the yarns used by the weft flat knitting machine of the same gauge, otherwise the needles cannot accommodate the yarns which are too thick and too many. If the colored yarns are cotton yarns, the thickness of the colored yarns is less than 0.6 times the thickness of the yarns suitable for the seamless underwear machine of the gauge. If the colored yarns are chemical fiber filaments, the thickness of the colored yarns is less than 0.8 times the thickness of the yarns suitable for the seamless underwear machine of the gauge. For example, the seamless underwear machine of the gauge E12 uses 12S cotton yarns, and when the method of the present application is used, 20S or thinner cotton yarns should be used as the colored yarns.

[0043] The pulling mechanism of the seamless machine is a suction device, and it is best to use elastic yarns when knitting. The colored yarns used as the face yarns when making loose clothes have no elasticity, and the ground yarns threaded in the same way need to have elasticity, for example, spandex. Because the thickness of the ground yarns also affects the overall thickness, the overall thickness of the ground yarns is preferably 4.5 tex or below. In the method, the machine knits 4 rows to form 1 row of the actual product, so there are 4 ground yarns in 1 row of the actual product, and therefore the draft ratio of the spandex is preferably 2.0 times, otherwise the cloth tube after shrinking after the machine will shrink very little.

[0044] The fabric made by the method of the present application is shown in Figure 3 It can be seen that the colored yarns are all inelastic yarns, Figure 3 a is the front surface of the fabric, Figure 3 b is the back surface of the fabric, Figure 3 The part corresponding to the front and back surface patterns is horizontally aligned in the figure. From Figure 3 It can be seen in a that the part of the pattern that is horizontally continuous and the same color has very few mixed colors, and can be achieved without missing color by using inelastic colored yarns. From Figure 3 It can be seen in b that the back surface of the fabric has no broken ends and no long floats, but presents a longitudinal pattern similar to scales.

[0045] Figure 3 The enlarged view of a is shown in Figure 4 and Figure 8 . Figure 5 is the preset pattern corresponding to the framed part in Figure 4 , which has 20 rows and 20 columns. Because the machine knits 4 rows to form 1 row of the actual product, it is different from Figure 5The corresponding knitting pattern has 80 rows by 20 columns. Figure 6 is Figure 5 the upper half of the corresponding knitting pattern, Figure 6 corresponding to Figure 4 the part above the Y dividing line in the selected area, Figure 7 is Figure 5 the lower half of the corresponding knitting pattern, Figure 7 corresponding to Figure 4 the part below the Y dividing line in the selected area. Figure 9 It is the preset pattern corresponding to Figure 8 the selected area, which has 20 rows by 20 columns. Since in the machine knitting of the present invention, four rows form one row of the actual product, therefore, the corresponding knitting pattern has 80 rows by 20 columns. Figure 9 is Figure 10 the upper half of the corresponding knitting pattern, Figure 9 corresponding to Figure 10 the part above the Z dividing line in the selected area, Figure 8 is Figure 11 the lower half of the corresponding knitting pattern, Figure 9 corresponding to Figure 11 the part below the Z dividing line in the selected area. Taking Figure 8 the uppermost first unit as an example, the physical object of color yarn D is black, the physical object of color yarn C is blue, the physical object of color yarn B is gray, and the physical object of color yarn A is white. Similarly, a cross represents a loop, a horizontal dot represents a tuck, and a blank represents a float. Counting from right to left, in columns 1 to 4 and columns 17 to 20, the blue yarn forms a loop, and the yarns of the other colors form a float or a tuck; in columns 5 to 8 and columns 13 to 16, the gray yarn forms a loop, and the yarns of the other colors form a float or a tuck; in columns 9 to 12, the black yarn forms a loop, and the yarns of the other colors form a float or a tuck; the white yarn does not form a loop at all, and each yarn tucks every 3 stitches, but looping takes precedence over tucking. That is, at the position where a tuck should be made after 3 stitches, if the yarn is needed to provide color in Figure 6 it should form a loop instead of tucking. Figure 5 In the uppermost first unit, the white yarn is not used in 20 consecutive stitches at all ( Figure 6 in Figure 3 a there are multiple repeated patterns such as Figure 4 shown, so actually hundreds of stitches do not use the white yarn), and 4 is Figure 3 a partial enlarged view of Figure 3 a. As can be seen from Figure 8The white knitting points reappear only at the left lower corner of the selected box. If the prior art method is used, the white yarn needs to be intermittently looped on the front of the fabric or cut off to form a broken end when weaving this part. In the embodiment of the present application, the white yarn is looped on the front of the fabric every 3 stitches, as shown in the first unit at the top of the drawing. Figure 6 The white yarn is looped on the front of the fabric every 3 stitches, as shown in the first unit at the top of the drawing. Figure 3 bIt can be seen that there is no long float or broken end at the corresponding position, so the fabric will not be hooked and is more flat.

[0046] In the description of the present specification, the description of the terms "one embodiment", "certain embodiments", "illustrative embodiments", "example", "specific example", or "some examples" means that the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described in connection with the described embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present application. In the present specification, the illustrative description of the above terms does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Moreover, the described specific features, structures, materials or characteristics can be combined in any one or more embodiments or examples in a suitable manner.

[0047] The above is the preferred embodiment of the present application. It should be pointed out that for ordinary skilled in the art, without departing from the principles of the present application, a number of improvements and refinements can be made, which are also considered to be within the scope of protection of the present application.

Claims

1. A method for weaving a four-color jacquard knitted fabric, using four different colored yarns, characterized in that, Each of the colored yarns is combined with a base yarn in one path of the seamless underwear machine, and the first unit is woven with four rows of the colored yarns according to the weaving direction of the seamless underwear machine, and the fabric is woven with multiple first units; In the first unit, each color of yarn occupies one row; In the first unit, yarns of one and only one color in the same column are looped, while yarns of other colors are either gathered or formed into floats. For the same colored yarn, after forming a float, a loop is formed every first stitch number; The fineness of the colored yarn is finer than the fineness of the yarn applicable to the machine size of the seamless underwear machine; When the colored yarn is an inelastic yarn, and the colored yarn is cotton yarn, the fineness of the colored yarn is less than 0.6 times the fineness of the yarn applicable to the machine size of the seamless underwear machine; when the colored yarn is chemical fiber filament, the fineness of the colored yarn is less than 0.8 times the fineness of the yarn applicable to the machine size of the seamless underwear machine. The base yarn is spandex, with a draw ratio of 2.0 and a fineness of less than 4.5 Tex; In the same column, there must be at least one loop between adjacent loops.

2. The weaving method for the four-color jacquard knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The first number of stitches is 3, 4, 5 or 6.

3. A four-color jacquard knitted fabric, characterized in that, It is woven by the method described in any one of claims 1 or 2.

4. A four-color jacquard garment, characterized in that, It is made by cutting and sewing the four-color jacquard knitted fabric as described in claim 3.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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