A method for spinning short cashmere (19-23 mm) into 20 tex or more yarn using a semi-worsted spinning process

Abstract

The invention provides a method for spinning short cashmere (19-23 mm) into yarns of 20 tex or more by using a semi-worsted spinning process. The existing worsted spinning process is only suitable for processing short cashmere of 30 mm or more, and the yarns spun by the wool spinning process and the traditional cotton spinning process have a tex of more than 28 tex. The invention adopts a semi-worsted spinning process Siro spinning process, such as no wool → wool → cover carding machine → two-way drawing (with self-leveling device) → roving → Siro spinning fine yarn, or a semi-worsted spinning process Siro compact spinning process, such as no wool → wool → combined carding machine → two-way drawing (with self-leveling device) → roving → Siro compact spinning fine yarn. During the production process, the relative humidity is maintained at 70-75%, the temperature is maintained at 20-25°C, the moisture regain of cashmere on the machine is maintained at 18-20%, the design of the process parameters is based on cotton spinning, and yarns of 20 tex or more are spun. The invention creates the semi-worsted spinning process suitable for 19-23 mm short cashmere, the spinning conditions and the process parameter design, effectively improving the economic value of the short cashmere and providing a guiding method for the rational use of textile raw materials.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of spinning, and in particular relates to a method for pure spinning 20tex and above yarn of short cashmere (19-23mm) by adopting a semi-worsted spinning process. Background Art

[0002] Cashmere is a precious textile raw material with a rare output, accounting for only 0.2% of the world's total animal fiber output. The fiber is fine, light, smooth, glutinous, elegant, and has a large degree of curl. It has excellent properties such as good moisture absorption and warmth retention, and is known as "soft gold". Therefore, making full and reasonable use of cashmere fibers of various lengths will save raw materials and turn waste into treasure.

[0003] For the processing of 19-23mm cashmere, it is not suitable to use combed wool spinning, because combed wool spinning is suitable for processing fibers larger than 30mm; using 19-23mm cashmere as raw material and using the wool spinning process can only spin yarns larger than 55.56tex, so how to use 19-23mm cashmere to spin yarns with lower tex is a problem that needs to be solved.

[0004] Cotton spinning equipment is suitable for processing short fibers. The cotton spinning process is shorter than that of combed wool spinning and has higher quality than that of carded wool spinning. In 1993, Hu Lijuan and others from Beijing Union University used short cashmere with an average length of 24.8 mm on cotton spinning equipment. The process was short cashmere after combing → laying and oiling → cleaning and rolling → combing → first and second and → roving → spun yarn, and spun 28tex spun yarn. However, its fiber length is longer than 23mm. For spinning, the shorter the fiber length, the lower the yarn quality and the more difficult it is to spin. In 1997, Li Long and others from Northwest Institute of Textile Engineering used combed fleece fiber strips with an average fiber length of 18mm to directly comb the strips. After two drawing, they spun 66.5tex ring yarn. This method did not go through the combing process, and the yarn spun had a larger number of features.

[0005] Therefore, a spinning process is designed with cashmere with a fiber length of 19 to 23 mm as raw material to overcome the problems that the worsted spinning process is not suitable for processing cashmere fibers with a length of 19 to 23 mm; the spinning number of the carded wool spinning process is high; and the cotton spinning process currently used is relatively traditional and the yarn number of the yarn is high. Therefore, designing a spinning process suitable for cashmere with a length of 19 to 23 mm and being able to spin pure cashmere yarn with a minimum of 20 tex has become a problem that needs to be solved. Summary of the invention

[0006] In view of this, the invention aims to propose a method for spinning short cashmere (19-23mm) into yarns of 20tex and above using a semi-worsted spinning process. This solves the problems that the worsted spinning process is not suitable for processing short cashmere; the yarn produced by carded wool spinning is relatively coarse; and the current cotton spinning process is relatively traditional, and the yarn spun has a high tex. This improves the utilization value of short cashmere, saves raw materials, and increases the economic benefits of the industry and enterprises.

[0007] To achieve the above object, the technical solution created by the present invention is implemented as follows: a method for spinning short cashmere (19-23 mm) pure 20 tex and above yarn using a semi-worsted process, comprising the following steps:

[0008] 1. Semi-worsted spinning process Siro spinning process: no fluff → wool → flat carding machine → two-pass drawing (with self-leveling device) → roving → siro spinning spun yarn

[0009] During the production process, the relative humidity is maintained at 70-75% and the temperature is maintained at 20-25°C. Such temperature and humidity ensure the cohesion between cashmere fibers and overcome the problem that cashmere fibers are prone to static electricity, which affects the spinning process and quality.

[0010] (1) Opening: The 19-23mm hairless cashmere is the short cashmere left after combing. Most of the coarse hair and impurities have been removed and can be used directly for opening. The short cashmere raw materials are opened twice by wool spinning and wool machines to open large pieces of fibers into small pieces. The short cashmere after opening is moistened with oil, and the weight of the wool oil is 0.8-1% of the total weight of the cashmere to ensure that the moisture regain of the cashmere on the machine is 18-20%. The purpose is to reduce static electricity between fibers and between fibers and machines, reduce fiber damage, and improve the bonding force between fibers, so that the cashmere can be smoothly formed into strips in the subsequent process and improve the dryness of the strips. The short cashmere after moistening with oil is placed in a simmering state for more than 12 hours so that the raw materials can fully absorb the wool oil.

[0011] (2) Combing: The short cashmere after wool and oiling is combed by a flat carding machine, so that the initially loosened fiber blocks are decomposed into single fibers, evenly mixed and formed into strips. The flat carding machine is equipped with a licker-in roller, a cylinder, a cover plate and a doffer. In order to avoid fiber damage, the problem of fluffy cashmere staple fibers being difficult to form into strips, and the problem of static electricity easily entangled in the cylinder or doffer, the process principle of low vehicle speed, large gauge and large pressure roller pressure is adopted. The speed of the licker-in roller and the cylinder is reduced, the speed ratio of the cylinder to the licker-in roller is appropriately increased, the combing gauge is enlarged, and fiber damage is prevented as much as possible; the speed of the flat plate is appropriately increased to increase the flat plate flower and remove the coarse hair in the cashmere; a larger pressure roller pressure is used to improve the fiber bundling and enhance the strength of the strips.

[0012] (3) Drawing: The raw slivers are drawn through two drawing processes, and 8 slivers are combined to prepare cooked slivers. In order to improve the uniformity of the slivers and strengthen the control of the fibers, the drawing machine adopts pressure rod curve drawing, and the coiling process is a straight tube output, so that the slivers can slide down and output smoothly to prevent clogging of the coiler. The drawing machine adopts the process principles of appropriate spacing, appropriate pressure, reduced speed, and appropriate quantity. The size of the roller spacing should be adapted to the length of the processed fiber and take into account the uniformity of the fiber; the pressure should be increased during drawing to increase the grip of the jaws on the slivers and reduce slippage; to prevent static electricity, the rubber rollers and rollers are entangled, and the roller speed is appropriately reduced; due to the short length of the fiber, the weight of the sliver should not be too light to prevent breakage.

[0013] (4) Roving: The sliver is drawn, twisted, wound and formed on a roving machine with four-up and four-down double leather rings. The roving process adopts the process principle of low speed, small gauge and large twist to adapt to the cashmere spinning performance, reduce end breakage and improve the quality of semi-finished products. Due to the short fiber length, in order to prevent the roving from end breakage and facilitate the control of cashmere short fibers in the spinning process, the roving twist should be larger and the speed should be reduced. The roving process adopts a small gauge to strengthen the control of floating fibers and improve the roving dryness.

[0014] (5) Fine yarn: The siro spinning process is used to spin fine yarn, and two coarse yarns are fed into the fine yarn drafting zone in parallel to enhance the strength of the whiskers, reduce the hairiness and improve the uniformity of the whiskers. The fine yarn process adopts the process principles of low speed, small gauge and large twist. Since cashmere fibers have low cohesion, they are prone to produce details during the spinning process, causing the fine yarn to break. The speed should be kept low, and the focus should be on controlling the details of the yarn. Fine yarn drafting is done by long and short leather ring double-zone drafting, which has better control over floating fibers. While ensuring smooth drafting, try to use a small gauge; the yarn uses a larger twist to prevent the yarn from breaking and causing uneven yarn.

[0015] To achieve the above object, another technical solution created by the present invention is implemented as follows.

[0016] 2. Semi-worsted spinning process Siro compact spinning process: hairless → wool → combined carding machine → two-pass drawing (with self-leveling device) → roving → Siro compact spinning spun yarn

[0017] During the production process, the relative humidity is maintained at 70-75% and the temperature is maintained at 20-25°C. Such temperature and humidity ensure the cohesion between the cashmere fibers and overcome the problem of static electricity generated by cashmere fibers, which affects the spinning process and quality.

[0018] (1) Opening: 19-23mm cashmere raw materials are the short wool left after combing cashmere. Most of the coarse hair and impurities have been removed and can be used directly for opening. The short cashmere raw materials are opened twice by wool spinning and wool machines to open large pieces of fiber into small pieces. The short cashmere after opening is moistened with oil. The weight of the oil added to the wool is 0.8-1% of the total weight of the cashmere to ensure that the moisture regain of the cashmere on the machine is 18-20%. The purpose is to reduce static electricity between fibers and between fibers and machines, reduce fiber breakage and increase the cohesion between fibers, so that the cashmere can be smoothly formed into strips in the subsequent process and improve the dryness of the strips. The short cashmere after oiling and moistening is placed in a stale place for more than 12 hours to allow the wool oil to be fully absorbed.

[0019] (2) Combing: The short cashmere after wool and cotton spinning is combed into strips by a combined combing machine modified by combining wool spinning and cotton spinning. The combined combing machine is a roller-type and cover-type combined combing machine. The cover-type combing machine has a high degree of separation of single fibers, sufficient combing, and can remove short fibers; the roller-type combing machine can comb flexibly and protect the length of cashmere fibers. The combined combing machine can achieve a good combing effect and remove a small amount of short fibers. The combined combing machine is composed of a double-linked vibrating automatic wool feeding machine, a double-feeding roller combing needle roller, a roller opening and combing, a cover-type combing machine, an automatic tube changer and coiler, and other unit machines. A combing needle roller is used to reduce fiber damage; the combing process adopts the process principle of large spacing and small speed ratio to make the combing action as gentle as possible, and the combing point and combing force are balanced. This result not only ensures the combing effect, but also minimizes fiber damage.

[0020] (3) Drawing: The raw slivers are drawn through two drawing processes, and 8 slivers are combined to prepare the finished slivers. In order to improve the uniformity of the slivers and strengthen the control of the fibers, the drawing machine adopts pressure bar curve drawing, and the coiling process is a straight tube output, so that the slivers can slide down and output smoothly to prevent clogging of the coiler. The drawing machine adopts the process principles of enlarging the gauge, appropriately applying pressure, reducing speed, and appropriately quantitative. The size of the roller gauge should be adapted to the length of the processed fiber and take into account the uniformity of the fiber. Due to the large dispersion of short cashmere, the roller gauge is relatively large; during the drawing, the pressure should be increased to increase the grip of the jaws on the slivers and reduce slippage; to prevent static electricity, the rubber rollers and rollers are entangled, and the roller speed is appropriately reduced; due to the short length of the fiber, the weight of the sliver should not be too light to prevent breakage.

[0021] (4) Roving: The sliver is drawn, twisted, wound and formed on a roving machine with four-up and four-down double leather rings. The roving process adopts the process principle of low speed, small gauge and large twist to adapt to the cashmere spinning performance, reduce end breakage and improve the quality of semi-finished products. Due to the short fiber length, in order to prevent the roving from end breakage and facilitate the control of cashmere short fibers in the spinning process, the roving twist should be larger and the speed should be reduced. The roving process adopts a small gauge to strengthen the control of floating fibers and improve the roving dryness.

[0022] (5) Fine yarn: The two rovings processed by the roving machine are used to prepare fine yarn by the Siro compact spinning process on the fine yarn machine. The Siro compact spinning process has the advantages of Siro spinning and compact spinning, which can improve the yarn dryness, increase the single yarn strength, and reduce the generation of hairiness. Siro compact spinning fine yarn adopts the process principle of large twist and low spindle speed. The twist is appropriately increased, which can increase the cohesion of cashmere fibers, reduce the spindle speed, and greatly reduce the yarn breakage rate.

[0023] Compared with the prior art, the present invention creates a method for spinning 20tex and above yarns of short cashmere using a semi-worsted spinning process, which has the following advantages:

[0024] (1) The length of the processed cashmere fiber in the invention is 19 to 23 mm;

[0025] (2) The semi-worsted spinning process described in the present invention processes short cashmere fibers. The production process is the following two: (1) hairless → wool → cover carding machine → two-pass drawing (with self-leveling device) → roving → siro-spun yarn; (2) hairless → wool → combined carding machine → two-pass drawing (with self-leveling device) → roving → siro-compact spinning yarn. This overcomes the problems that the worsted spinning process is not suitable for processing short cashmere, the woolen spinning process has low spinning count, and the cotton spinning process has bottlenecks in using 19-23mm cashmere to spin yarn with lower count.

[0026] (3) The production method of the present invention can be used to spin yarns of 20 tex or more, so as to further improve the economic value of short cashmere. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0027] The present invention is described in detail below in conjunction with embodiments.

[0028] Embodiment 1: A method for spinning short cashmere (19-23 mm) into yarn of 20 tex or more by semi-worsted spinning process, comprising the following steps:

[0029] During the production process, the relative humidity is maintained at 70-75% and the temperature is maintained at 20-25°C.

[0030] (1) Opening: First, use a wool spinning machine to loosen the short cashmere raw material with a length of 19 to 23 mm twice. Add oil to the loosened short cashmere, and spray the wool oil in a mist form. The oil droplets should be as small as possible. The weight of the wool oil should be 0.8 to 1% of the total weight of the cashmere, ensuring that the moisture regain of the cashmere on the machine is 18 to 20%, and then leave it in a stale state for more than 12 hours to allow the wool oil to be fully absorbed.

[0031] (2) Combing: The short cashmere after wool and oiling is combed into strips by a flat carding machine, using the process principles of low speed, large gauge, high tension drafting, and high pressure roller pressure. A larger tension drafting is used to prevent fiber shrinkage, and a larger pressure roller pressure is used to improve fiber bundling and increase strip strength. The flat carding machine is equipped with a licker-in roller, a cylinder, a doffer, and a flat plate. The speed of the licker-in roller is 730r / mim, the speed of the cylinder is 270r / min, the speed of the doffer is 20r / min, the speed of the cover is 132mm / min, the dust removal knife-licker-in roller distance is 0.3mm, the cotton feed plate-licker-in roller distance is 0.3mm, the licker-in roller-cylinder distance is 0.18mm, the cylinder-cover distance is 0.28mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.25mm, 0.28mm, the cylinder-doffer distance is 0.13mm, and the weight of the raw strips after processing by the cover carding machine is 20g / 5m.

[0032] (3) Drawing: The eight raw strips processed by the flat carding machine are prepared into cooked strips through two drawing processes, so that the straight parallelism of the fibers is improved and the uniformity of the cooked strips is improved. The process principles of enlarging the gauge, applying appropriate pressure, reducing the speed, and appropriate quantitative are adopted. The center distance of the front, middle and rear areas of the drawing frame is 39.5×35.5×44mm, the speed is 40m / min, the drafting multiple is set to 8, the weight of the semi-cooked strips and cooked strips is controlled at 20g / 5m, the drafting form is pressure bar drafting, and the coiling process is straight tube output.

[0033] (4) Roving: The sliver is drawn, twisted, wound and formed on a roving frame with four-up and four-down double leather rings. The roving process adopts the process principle of low speed, small gauge and large twist. The spindle speed of the roving frame is 600r / min, and the center distances of the front, middle and rear areas of the roving frame are 42×50×55mm respectively. The weight of the roving is controlled at 3.26-5.53g / 10m, the twist coefficient is 116.6, and the twist is 56.56 twists / m.

[0034] (5) Spinning: Two rovings processed by the roving frame are fed into the spinning drafting zone in parallel on the spinning frame using the Siro spinning process to prepare spinning. The spinning process adopts the process principle of low speed, small gauge and large twist. The center distances of the front and rear areas of the spinning frame are 53×63mm respectively. The prepared spinning number is 20tex, the twist is 47 twists / 10cm, the twist coefficient is 300, the spindle speed is 4500r / min, and the wire ring number is 8.

[0035] Embodiment 2: A method for spinning short cashmere (19-23 mm) into yarn of 20 tex or more by semi-worsted spinning process, comprising the following steps:

[0036] During the production process, the relative humidity is maintained at 70-75% and the temperature is maintained at 20-25°C.

[0037] (1) Opening: First, use a wool spinning machine to loosen short cashmere raw materials with a length of 19 to 23 mm twice. Add oil to the loosened short cashmere, and spray the wool oil in a mist-like state. The oil droplets should be as small as possible. The weight of the wool oil should be 0.8 to 1% of the total weight of the cashmere, ensuring that the moisture regain of the cashmere on the machine is 18 to 20%, and then leave it in a stale state for more than 12 hours to allow the wool oil to be fully absorbed.

[0038] (2) The combined carding machine is composed of a double-vibration automatic wool feeder, a double-feeding roller combing needle roller, a roller loosening combing, a flat carding machine, an automatic barrel changer and a sliver coiler, and other unit machines. A combined mechanism is adopted, roller combing and flat carding are combined, double rollers are fed, a double-vibration automatic wool feeder and an automatic barrel changer and a sliver coiler are used. The automatic wool feeder adopts a double-vibration volumetric type, a combing needle roller is used, and the combing process adopts the process principle of large gauge and small speed ratio. The number of revolving flats (working flats / total number of flats) is 30 / 84, the transfer roller-breast cylinder gauge is 0.23mm, the working roller-cylinder gauge is 0.3mm, the working roller-stripping roller gauge is 0.56mm, the stripping roller-cylinder gauge is 0.56mm, the flat cylinder-doffer gauge is 0.13mm, the gauges between cylinder and flats are 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.23mm, 0.23mm, 0.20mm, the breast cylinder speed is 330r / min, the flat cylinder speed is 290r / min, the flat speed is 160r / min, and the weight of the raw strips processed by the combined carding machine is 18g / 5m.

[0039] (3) Drawing: The eight raw strips processed by the flat carding machine are prepared into cooked strips through two drawing processes, so that the straight parallelism of the fibers is improved and the uniformity of the cooked strips is improved. The process principles of enlarging the gauge, applying appropriate pressure, reducing the speed, and applying appropriate quantity are adopted. The center distance of the front, middle and rear areas of the drawing frame is 39×35×42mm, the speed is 36m / min, the drafting multiple is set to 8, the weight of the semi-cooked strips and cooked strips is controlled at 18g / 5m, the drafting form is pressure rod drafting, the coiling process is straight tube output, and a pressure rod is installed in the front drafting area.

[0040] (4) Roving: The sliver is drawn, twisted, wound and formed on a roving frame with four-up and four-down double leather rings. The roving process adopts the process principle of low speed, small gauge and large twist. The spindle speed of the roving frame is 550r / min, and the center distances of the front, middle and rear areas of the roving frame are 42×50×55mm respectively. The weight of the roving is controlled at 4.25g / 10m, the twist coefficient is 116.6, and the twist is 56.56 twists / m.

[0041] (5) Spinning: The two rovings processed by the roving machine are used to prepare spinning by the Siro compact spinning process on the spinning machine to reduce fiber damage and yarn hairiness and increase the wear resistance and strength of the yarn. Siro compact spinning adopts the process principle of smooth drafting and low spindle speed. The center distances of the front and rear areas of the spinning machine are 53×63mm respectively. The prepared spinning number is 20tex, the twist is 47 twists / 10cm, the twist coefficient is 300, the spindle speed is 4300r / min, and the wire ring number is 8.

[0042] According to the above method, pure 20tex cashmere yarn can be spun, and the breaking strength and elongation are different. The specific indicators are as follows. The yarn strength performance of the second embodiment is better.

[0043] Table 1 Strength properties of 20tex cashmere yarn

[0044] Yarn number / tex Example Breaking strength / cN Elongation at break / % 20 1 81.4 13.078 20 2 150.3 15.800

[0045] The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for spinning 19-23 mm short cashmere yarn of 20 tex or more using a semi-worsted spinning process, characterized in that: The semi-worsted process Siro spinning process is as follows: hairless → wool blending → combing → drawing → roving → Siro spinning spun yarn, wherein: combing adopts a flat carding machine; or the semi-worsted process Siro compact spinning process is as follows: hairless → wool blending → combing → drawing → roving → Siro compact spinning spun yarn, wherein: combing adopts a combined carding machine modified by combining wool spinning and cotton spinning, and the combined carding machine is a roller type and flat plate type combined carding machine; in the above Siro spinning process and Siro compact spinning process: wool blending is to open short cashmere through a wool spinning and wool blending machine, and large pieces of fiber are opened into small pieces, and the short cashmere after opening is oiled and moistened to ensure that the moisture regain of the cashmere on the machine is 18-20%; drawing adopts a drawing frame with a self-leveling device, and the raw sliver undergoes two drawing processes.