Anti-wrinkle and firming composition and its application in cosmetics

Abstract

The present application provides an anti-wrinkle and firming composition and its application in cosmetics. The composition of the present application comprises recombinant collagen, collagen extract, soluble collagen, collagen amino acids, bakuchiol and seaweed extract; and a good anti-wrinkle and firming effect is achieved by compounding a plurality of collagen, bakuchiol and seaweed extract ingredients.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present application belongs to the field of cosmetics. Specifically, the present application provides an anti-wrinkle and firming composition and its application in cosmetics. Background Art

[0002] Providing cosmetics that have good anti-wrinkle and firming effects and are mild and non-irritating is an important research direction in the cosmetics field.

[0003] Collagen is an important component of the extracellular matrix of skin tissue and is widely used in cosmetics and various fields. Collagen gives the skin a certain tensile strength, elasticity, and cell adhesion effect, and plays an important role in maintaining the stability of skin tissue.

[0004] Bakuchiol is a new raw material. Although it has been registered with the State Food and Drug Administration, it is rarely used in the domestic cosmetics field. Bakuchiol has retinol-like biological activity and can replace retinol in anti-aging effects, helping to improve wrinkle depth, roughness, and improve skin elasticity and firmness. It also has good antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening biological activities.

[0005] Seaweed has a high yield and an excellent growth environment. Extracts from a variety of seaweed can be used as cosmetic raw materials. Seaweed contains a large number of brown algae, red algae, green algae, etc. of different species and different growth environments. The polysaccharides, proteins, small peptides and other small molecule active substances contained in them have multiple functions such as regulating immunity, anti-inflammation, and anti-oxidation. Summary of the invention

[0006] The present application provides an anti-wrinkle and firming composition that can be used in a variety of cosmetics, wherein the composition combines the skin protection and anti-wrinkle effects of various collagens and bakuchiol; and at the same time, provides a seaweed extract with significant soothing and anti-wrinkle effects through enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0007] In one aspect, the present application provides an anti-wrinkle and firming composition, which comprises recombinant collagen, collagen extract, soluble collagen, collagen amino acids, bakuchiol and seaweed extract.

[0008] Further, calculated by weight / volume, the anti-wrinkle and firming composition comprises 0.2-0.4% recombinant type III collagen, 1-4% collagen extract, 4.5-5.5% soluble collagen, 6-7% collagen amino acids, 3-7% bakuchiol, 1-2% fibronectin, 1-2% serum protein, 0.1-0.5% arginine / lysine polypeptide, 0.1-0.3% acetyl hexapeptide-8, 2-4% 1.3-propanediol, 4-7% seaweed extract, 0.2-0.5% 1,2-pentanediol, 0.005-0.008% caprylhydroxamic acid, 0.05-0.2% phenoxyethanol, and 0.005-0.009% disodium EDTA.

[0009] Furthermore, calculated by weight / volume, the anti-wrinkle and firming composition consists of the following ingredients: 0.3% recombinant type III collagen, 3% collagen extract, 4.9% soluble collagen, 6.585% collagen amino acids, 5% bakuchiol, 1.8% fibronectin, 1.8% serum protein, 0.3% arginine / lysine polypeptide, 0.3% acetyl hexapeptide-8, 3% 1.3-propanediol, 6% seaweed extract, 0.4% 1,2-pentanediol, 0.0075% caprylhydroxamic acid, 0.1% phenoxyethanol, 0.0075% disodium EDTA, and the balance is water.

[0010] Furthermore, the seaweed extract is a water extract of Vermifuge red algae, and the polysaccharide content in the Vermifuge red algae extract is 60-65% w / w.

[0011] Furthermore, the extract of the worm-shaped red algae is enzymatically modified with polygalacturonase and protease.

[0012] Furthermore, the worm-forked red algae extract is prepared by the following method:

[0013] (1) preparing the water extract of the wormwood red algae into an 8-10% w / v aqueous solution;

[0014] (2) adding 600-800 U / mL of polygalacturonase and 150-200 U / mL of bromelain or papain to the aqueous solution obtained in step (1), adjusting the pH to 6.0-6.5, and treating at 45-65 degrees Celsius for 2-3 hours;

[0015] (3) Enzyme inactivation

[0016] (4) Concentrating, optionally followed by freeze-drying.

[0017] Furthermore, the worm-forked red algae extract is prepared by the following method:

[0018] (1) preparing the water extract of wormwood red algae into an 8% w / v aqueous solution;

[0019] (2) adding 700 U / mL of polygalacturonase and 200 U / mL of bromelain or papain to the aqueous solution obtained in step (1), adjusting the pH to 6.0, and treating at 60 degrees Celsius for 2 hours;

[0020] (3) enzyme inactivation;

[0021] (4) Concentrate and freeze-dry.

[0022] On the other hand, the present application provides the use of the anti-wrinkle and firming composition in the preparation of cosmetics with anti-wrinkle and firming functions.

[0023] Furthermore, the cosmetic is a facial cream.

[0024] Furthermore, the facial cream also contains one or more ingredients selected from glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate, shea butter, PEG-100 stearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl alcohol, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, glycerin, potassium cetyl phosphate, acrylic acid / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and 1,2-hexanediol.

[0025] The extract of Furcellaria Lumbricalis described in the present application is an extract prepared by a water extraction method using Furcellaria Lumbricalis as a raw material. The extract of Furcellaria Lumbricalis described in the present application can be homemade or purchased commercially, and the polysaccharide content therein may vary depending on the manufacturer, extraction method, and purification step.

[0026] In addition to the excipients listed above, those skilled in the art can select suitable excipients and other functional ingredients according to different cosmetic dosage forms, including but not limited to essences, creams, various facial masks, etc. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0027] Figure 1 The hyaluronidase inhibition rate, elastase inhibition rate and ABTS free radical scavenging rate of the four seaweed extracts;

[0028] Figure 2 The results of complex enzyme modification of the extract of Vermifuge red algae. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0029] Example 1 Main reagents and experimental methods

[0030] Polygalacturonase, β-galactosidase, pectin lyase, cellulase, xylanase, bromelain, papain were purchased from Jiangsu Baiyao, Wuhan Huaxiang Kejie and other manufacturers, all of which are food grade; hyaluronidase and elastase used in the test were purchased from Sigma.

[0031] The extract of Furcellaria Lumbricalis (polysaccharide content greater than 60wt%) and the extract of Delesseria Sanguinea (polysaccharide content greater than 55wt%) were made by the applicant, and the extraction method was water extraction and alcohol precipitation. The extract of Gloiopeltis Furcata and the extract of Laminaria Japonica Aresch were purchased from Xi'an Tianrui Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and the polysaccharide content was greater than 65wt% and 70wt%.

[0032] Other raw materials are homemade or purchased from regular suppliers and comply with relevant cosmetic standards.

[0033] Hyaluronidase inhibition activity assay (turbidimetric method)

[0034] Take 100 μL of 500U / mL hyaluronidase solution, 100 μL of PBS buffer (100mML, pH 7), 100 μL of NaCl solution (50mM), 100 μL of BSA (0.01%), and 50 μL of test sample (5mg / mL extract solution), mix well, and place at 37°C for 20 minutes to stabilize as the test system; use PBS (100mM, pH5.5) to prepare 0.03% w / v sodium hyaluronate solution; add 100 μL of sodium hyaluronate solution to the test system; react at 37°C for 1 hour; use 1mL of acidic albumin solution to precipitate unhydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, invert and mix well; let the mixture after precipitation stand for 10 minutes and then detect the absorbance at 600nm with a microplate reader. The ratio of the sample group to the blank group is used as the hyaluronidase inhibition rate.

[0035] Elastase inhibitory activity assay (turbidimetric method)

[0036] Prepare sample solution (100 μL of Tris buffer, 10 μL of 1U / mL elastase solution, 30 μL of sample (5 mg / mL extract solution)), sample control solution (110 μL of Tris buffer, 30 μL of sample), blank solution (140 μL of Tris buffer), and blank control (130 μL of Tris buffer, 10 μL of 1U / mL elastase solution) and place them at 25°C for 20 minutes; add 40 μL of 0.5 mg / mL AAAPVN peptide solution to each solution; place them at 25°C for 20 minutes, and detect the absorbance at 410 nm with an enzyme reader; the ratio of sample control-sample to blank control-blank is taken as the elastase inhibition rate.

[0037] ABTS free radical scavenging rate assay

[0038] Take ABTS diammonium salt and add distilled water to prepare a 7mmol / L stock solution; take potassium persulfate and add distilled water to prepare a 2mol / L stock solution; mix the two stock solutions in equal volumes and place them at room temperature in the dark for 12 hours to prepare the ABTS working solution; dilute the ABTS working solution to an absorbance of about 0.7 at 734nm; fully mix the sample solution to be tested (2mg / mL extract solution) or distilled water control with the diluted ABTS working solution (or distilled water blank), let it stand for 5 minutes, and record the absorbance at 734nm; clearance rate = [1-(A sample-A blank) / A control]×100%.

[0039] Example 2 Composition of the anti-wrinkle and firming composition

[0040] Recombinant type III collagen 0.3%, collagen extract 3%, soluble collagen 4.9%, collagen amino acids 6.585%, bakuchiol 5%, fibronectin 1.8%, serum protein 1.8%, arginine / lysine polypeptide 0.3%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.3%, 1.3-propanediol 3%, seaweed extract 6%, 1,2-pentanediol 0.4%, caprylhydroxamic acid 0.0075%, phenoxyethanol 0.1%, disodium EDTA 0.0075%, and the balance is water.

[0041] Example 3 Hyaluronidase inhibition rate and elastase inhibition rate of different seaweed extracts

[0042] The extracts of wormwood red algae, red leaf algae, seaweed and kelp were prepared into a 1% w / v aqueous solution, and the hyaluronidase inhibition rate, elastase inhibition rate and ABTS free radical scavenging rate thereof were detected according to the method in Example 1.

[0043] The results show that ( Figure 1), all four algae extracts had obvious antioxidant effects; the three red algae, namely, worm-forked red algae, red leaf algae, and sea algae, had certain hyaluronidase and elastase inhibitory effects, while the effects of brown algae and green algae (relevant studies on Spirulina were conducted earlier) were significantly poorer.

[0044] The red algae Vermiformis, Red Leaf Algae and Sea Algae were selected for further enzyme modification studies.

[0045] Example 4 Enzyme modification of seaweed extract

[0046] The three red algae extracts were enzymatically modified using polysaccharidase. The basic method is as follows:

[0047] (1) preparing the extract into an 8% w / v aqueous solution; (2) adding 700 U / mL enzyme to the aqueous solution obtained in step (1), adjusting the pH to 6.0, and treating at 60 degrees Celsius for 2 hours; (3) inactivating the enzyme at 90 degrees Celsius for 5 minutes; (4) concentrating and freeze-drying.

[0048] The results are shown in Table 1:

[0049] Table 1 Effect of polysaccharide enzyme modification

[0050]

[0051]

[0052] The results showed that in most cases, the treatment with polysaccharidase had no significant effect on the antioxidant activity. The treatment with polygalacturonase, β-galactosidase and pectin lyase significantly improved the hyaluronidase and elastase inhibition effects of the extracts of Vermifuge red algae and red leaf algae, among which the inhibitory effect of polygalacturonase on the hyaluronidase and elastase of the extracts of Vermifuge red algae was particularly significant.

[0053] Furthermore, the extract of the worm-shaped red algae was modified with a composite enzyme of polygalacturonase and protease (200 U / mL in the system). Figure 2 As shown, the addition of protease further improved the inhibition rate of hyaluronidase and elastase

[0054] Example 5 Preparation and application of actual cream product

[0055] The anti-wrinkle and firming composition was prepared according to the formula of Example 1 using the compound enzyme modified worm fork red algae extract in Example 4, and further prepared into a face cream (glyceryl stearate citrate 2%, glyceryl stearate 1%, avocado tree (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat 3%, PEG-100 stearate 1%, caprylic / capric triglyceride 5%, polydimethylsiloxane 2%, cetyl alcohol 2.0%, squalane 2%, tocopheryl acetate 0.1%, glycerol 5%, disodium EDTA 0.05%, potassium cetyl phosphate 0.05%, acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.35%, sodium polyacrylate 0.2%, p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.5%, 1,2-hexanediol 0.5%, anti-wrinkle and firming composition 7%, and the balance is water). The results were verified in 33 testers. The results are shown in Tables 2-6.

[0056] Table 2 Number of people with adverse reactions at each level

[0057]

[0058] Table 3 Evaluation results after subjects used the test product for 7 consecutive days

[0059]

[0060] Table 4 Effect of using around eyes

[0061]

[0062]

[0063] Table 5 Effects on skin

[0064]

[0065] Table 6 Efficacy test data on the 7th and 14th days

[0066]

[0067]

Claims

1. An anti-wrinkle and firming composition, characterized in that: The anti-wrinkle and firming composition comprises recombinant collagen, collagen extract, soluble collagen, collagen amino acids, bakuchiol and seaweed extract; the seaweed extract is prepared by the following method: (1) preparing the water extract of Vermifugal red algae into an 8-10% w / v aqueous solution; the polysaccharide content in the water extract of Vermifugal red algae is 65-70% w / w; (2) adding 600-800 U / mL of polygalacturonase and 150-200 U / mL of papain to the aqueous solution obtained in step (1), adjusting the pH to 6.0-6.5, and treating at 45-65 degrees Celsius for 2-3 hours; (3) enzyme inactivation; (4) Concentrating, optionally followed by freeze-drying.

2. The anti-wrinkle and firming composition according to claim 1, calculated by weight / volume, comprises 0.2-0.4% recombinant type III collagen, 1-4% collagen extract, 4.5-5.5% soluble collagen, 6-7% collagen amino acids, 3-7% bakuchiol, 1-2% fibronectin, 1-2% serum protein, 0.1-0.5% arginine / lysine polypeptide, 0.1-0.3% acetyl hexapeptide-8, 2-4% 1,3-propanediol, 4-7% seaweed extract, 0.2-0.5% 1,2-pentanediol, 0.005-0.008% caprylhydroxamic acid, 0.05-0.2% phenoxyethanol, and 0.005-0.009% disodium EDTA.

3. The anti-wrinkle and firming composition according to claim 2, wherein the anti-wrinkle and firming composition is composed of the following ingredients by weight / volume: Recombinant type III collagen 0.3%, collagen extract 3%, soluble collagen 4.9%, collagen amino acids 6.585%, bakuchiol 5%, fibronectin 1.8%, serum protein 1.8%, arginine / lysine polypeptide 0.3%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.3%, 1.3-propanediol 3%, seaweed extract 6%, 1,2-pentanediol 0.4%, caprylhydroxamic acid 0.0075%, phenoxyethanol 0.1%, disodium EDTA 0.0075%, and the balance is water.

4. The anti-wrinkle and firming composition according to claim 1, wherein the seaweed extract is prepared by the following method: (1) preparing the water extract of Vermifugal red algae into an 8% w / v aqueous solution; the polysaccharide content in the water extract of Vermifugal red algae is 65-70% w / w; (2) adding 700 U / mL of polygalacturonase and 200 U / mL of bromelain or papain to the aqueous solution obtained in step (1), adjusting the pH to 6.0, and treating at 60 degrees Celsius for 2 hours; (3) enzyme inactivation; (4) Concentrate and freeze-dry.

5. Use of the anti-wrinkle and firming composition according to claim 1 in preparing cosmetics with anti-wrinkle and firming functions.

6. The use according to claim 5, wherein the cosmetic is a facial cream.

7. The use according to claim 6, wherein the facial cream further comprises one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate, shea butter, PEG-100 stearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, glycerin, potassium cetyl phosphate, acrylic acid / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and 1,2-hexanediol.

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