Preparation method of bean-shaped wool yarn
By adding polyester filament fibers with balanced twist during the twisting process of mottled yarn, the problem of yarn skewing during the twisting process is solved, improving the spinnability and spinning efficiency of the yarn, while also achieving a three-dimensional and aesthetically pleasing effect.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- CONSINEE GRP CO LTD
- Filing Date
- 2024-03-07
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-29
AI Technical Summary
In the preparation of tufted yarn, existing technologies are prone to producing skew during the twisting process, which affects the spinnability of the yarn and results in low spinning efficiency.
In the twisting step, an additional fiber filament for balancing twist is added. The twist variation of the yarn is controlled by feeding in extra polyester filament fibers. A specific twist direction and overfeed design are used to ensure the twist balance of the yarn.
It effectively avoids the skew phenomenon during the twisting process, improves the spinnability of twisted yarn, increases textile efficiency, and the yarn surface presents a randomly distributed, inconsistently sized bead effect, enhancing the three-dimensionality and aesthetics of the yarn.
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and more particularly to the weaving of cashmere yarn. Background Technology
[0002] Cashmere fiber is a rare animal fiber, highly favored for its superior properties, and has always been the preferred fiber for high-end textiles. The trend towards lighter and thinner textiles is a global trend, and cashmere fiber, with its fineness and soft, smooth texture, is highly sought after by consumers. Moreover, my country is a major cashmere producer, ranking first in the world in both quantity and quality. Therefore, the development, utilization, and multifunctional finishing of cashmere fiber have significant theoretical and practical implications.
[0003] Over the past three or four decades, fancy yarns have been applied to virtually every aspect of our lives. They are made into clothing or used to decorate living environments, bringing warmth and comfort. The raw materials used basically cover all conventionally used fibers: cotton, wool, silk, linen, and chemical and cellulose fibers. Clothing applications mostly use higher-quality materials to meet the requirements of comfortable touch, while lower-quality materials are mostly used for decorating living environments. Today, among fancy yarn products, boucle yarn and pewter yarn are arguably the most numerous and widely used products. Therefore, the applicant has specifically developed a new type of cashmere yarn with a pewter-like surface. Summary of the Invention
[0004] This invention addresses the shortcomings of existing technologies by providing a method for preparing mottled wool yarn. This application improves the weaving process of mottled yarn by adding a balancing fiber filament to the twisting step, avoiding skewing during the twisting process, greatly increasing the spinnability of the twisted yarn, reducing subsequent steps, and increasing weaving efficiency. Simultaneously, this mottled yarn randomly produces irregularly sized mottles, which, when woven on a flat knitting machine, create a firm, three-dimensional effect with an uneven distribution of mottled grains.
[0005] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention provides the following technical solution: a method for preparing a type of wool yarn, comprising the following steps: Step A: selecting wool with a fineness of 30-40 micrometers and a length of 90-100 millimeters; Step B: performing a drawing process on the wool, dividing the drawing into four sections, adopting the principle of combining multiple strands of small sliver weight to improve the evenness of the yarn, spraying oil and water on the first section of the drawing, wherein the oil and water content is not less than 10% of the wool weight by mass percentage, the draft is controlled between 5-7, and the evenness CV% is controlled below 4%; Step C: performing a roving process, wherein the evenness CV% is... The percentage is controlled below 8%, and the final output is wool roving with a count of 1.5Nm-3Nm, a twist of 70 twists / meter-90 twists / meter, and a twist direction of Z; Step D: Select wool roving as the finishing yarn, select 300D / 96F polyester filament fiber as the core yarn, and select 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber as the binding yarn. Use a long fiber twisting device, and feed another 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber into the output roller to balance the twist, so as to make a bead-like fancy yarn with random bead sizes. The bead-like fancy yarn has an internal twist of 350T / M-400T / M, a twist direction of S, and an external twist of 250. T / M-300 T / M, twist direction is Z, core yarn overfeed is 1.00-1.10, decorative yarn overfeed is 1.5-2.0, yarn count is between 0.8Nm-1.2Nm; Step F: Rewind the polka dot pattern yarn at a speed of less than 150 m / min. After rewinding, clean the yarn and wax it.
[0006] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step A, Qinghai white coarse wool with a fineness of 33μm and an average wool length of 95mm is selected.
[0007] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step B, the oil and water comprises, by mass percentage, 1.5% antistatic agent FX-AS301, 2% crude oil FX-906, and 96.5% water.
[0008] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step D, the inner twist of the polka dot pattern yarn is 380 T / M with the twist direction being S, and the outer twist is 260 T / M with the twist direction being Z.
[0009] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step D, the core wire overfeed is 1.05 and the decorative wire overfeed is 1.6.
[0010] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step B, the oil and water content is 13% of the weight of the wool by mass percentage.
[0011] The "piggy cashmere yarn" in this application is a type of fancy yarn. Its main feature is that the fabric woven from this yarn will have randomly appearing pimple-like bumps, a style highly suitable for clothing and cashmere embellishments. The innovation of this application lies in the use of a new weaving process during the production of the pimple yarn on a fancy twisting machine. An additional 150D / 48F polyester DTY filament fiber is fed into the output roller to balance the twist. As is known to those skilled in the art, achieving specific yarn effects in the production of fancy yarns, especially pimple yarn, requires extremely high levels of internal and external twist. In this application, the pimples on the yarn need to appear randomly, resulting in significant variations in yarn twist. If the yarn twist becomes uncontrolled, it affects the yarn's spinnability and causes problems for subsequent processes. Therefore, an additional polyester strand is fed during the twisting process in this application. This polyester strand controls the overall twist of the yarn count. When the twist variation of the mottled yarn exceeds the control value, adjusting the twist of this polyester strand restores the overall yarn twist to normal. The mottled yarn and the twist-balancing polyester strand can be considered as a double-strand single-count yarn. Furthermore, due to the presence of the mottled protrusions and the relatively fine nature of the twist-balancing polyester strand, ordinary consumers will not be able to detect its presence under normal visual conditions, provided the cashmere and polyester are the same color. This technological improvement greatly facilitates twist control during the twisting process of mottled yarn and even cashmere fancy yarns, increasing textile efficiency.
[0012] The specific process of this application includes: pre-spinning – twisting – winding – finished product. Qinghai Da Bai white wool sliver is selected. The pre-spinning process is: drawing sliver 1 – drawing sliver 2 – drawing sliver 3 – drawing sliver 4 – roving. Drawing process: The principle of combining multiple small slivers is adopted to improve evenness. Oil and water (1.5% antistatic agent, 2% wool oil, and 96.5% water) are sprayed at drawing sliver 1, accounting for 13% of the raw material weight, with the draft controlled between 5-7%. Evenness CV% is controlled below 4%. Low-speed production is used in drawing sliver 1 to avoid fiber damage. The key point in the roving process is the twist design, with the twist controlled at 80-100 t / m to prepare for subsequent twisting. Roving process: To obtain firm loops, the roving twist coefficient is controlled relatively high, with the twist set at 80 T / m. The roving evenness CV is controlled below 8%, and the roving count is set to Nm2.
[0013] In the twisting process, the core thread uses 300D / 96F polyester DTY filament fiber, and the binding thread uses 150D / 48F polyester DTY filament fiber. One more 150D / 48F polyester DTY filament fiber is fed into the output roller. For the random, inconsistent size of the loops, a suitable twist is needed. After multiple trials, the inner twist was determined to be 380 T / M with an S-direction, and the outer twist was determined to be 260 T / M with a Z-direction; this results in a more aesthetically pleasing shape with full and firm loops. Yarn count control: Based on the selected core and binding threads and the inner and outer twists, the yarn count is selected to be between Nm and 1. Scheme for determining the overfeed of the core yarn, the overfeed of the decorative yarn, and the inner and outer twist: For the tufted yarn produced by the fancy twist machine, the overfeed amount of the fancy twist roving is controlled, and the size and number of the tufts are controlled by the inner and outer twist. After repeated experiments, the core yarn overfeed is confirmed to be 1.05, the decorative yarn overfeed to be 1.6, the inner twist to be 380 T / m with an S-direction, and the outer twist to be 260 T / m with a Z-direction. One-step twist balancing: In the production of the fancy twist machine, a polyester DTY filament is added at the output to balance the twist, facilitating the next production weaving. 2. Fancy twist: Fancy twist is a crucial step in this yarn production. The selection of twist and decorative yarn overfeed is very important. Combined with the roving twist, the roving twist is larger than that of conventional roving. The design of the fancy twist overfeed and the inner and outer twist at the end of the machine follows the style required by the finished product. This yarn uses an inner twist of 380 T / m and an outer twist of 260 T / m, with the yarn count controlled at Nm1.
[0014] Compared with existing technologies, this application improves the weaving process of mottled yarn by adding a balancing filament fiber to the twisting step, avoiding skewing during the twisting process, greatly increasing the spinnability of the twisted yarn, reducing subsequent steps, and increasing textile efficiency. Simultaneously, this mottled yarn randomly produces irregularly sized mottled patterns, which, when woven on a flat knitting machine, create a firm, three-dimensional effect with unevenly distributed mottled grains. Detailed Implementation
[0015] Example 1: A method for preparing a type of wool yarn, comprising the following steps: Step A: Selecting wool with a fineness of 30 micrometers and a length of 90 millimeters. Step B: Performing a drawing process on the wool, dividing the drawing into four sections, adopting the principle of combining multiple strands of small sliver to improve the evenness of the yarn. Spraying oil and water on the first section of the drawing, controlling the draft at 5-, and controlling the evenness CV% below 4%; by weight percentage, the oil and water comprises 1.5% antistatic agent FX-AS301, 2% wool oil FX-906, and 96.5% water. The oil and water constitute 13% of the wool weight.
[0016] Step C: Perform roving treatment, during which the evenness CV% is controlled below 8%, and finally produce wool roving with a count of 1.5Nm-3Nm, a twist of 70 twists / meter, and a twist direction of Z; Step D: Select wool roving as the finishing yarn, select 300D / 96F polyester filament fiber as the core yarn, and select 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber as the binding yarn. Use a long fiber twisting device, and feed another 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber into the output roller to balance the twist, and make a bead-like fancy yarn with random bead sizes. The bead-like fancy yarn has an internal twist of 350T / M and a twist direction of S, an external twist of 250T / M and a twist direction of Z, a core yarn overfeed of 1.00, a finishing yarn overfeed of 1.5, and a yarn count of 0.8Nm. Step F: Rewind the dotted yarn at a speed of less than 150 meters per minute. After rewinding, clean the yarn and then wax it.
[0017] Example 2: A method for preparing a tufted wool yarn, comprising the following steps: Step A: Selecting wool with a fineness of 40 micrometers and a length of 100 millimeters. Step B: Performing a drawing process on the wool, dividing the drawing into four sections, adopting the principle of combining multiple strands of small sliver to improve the evenness of the yarn. Spraying oil and water on the first section of the drawing, controlling the draft at 7, and controlling the evenness CV% below 4%; by weight percentage, the oil and water includes 1.5% antistatic agent FX-AS301, 2% wool oil FX-906, and 96.5% water. By weight percentage, the oil and water constitute 13% of the wool weight.
[0018] Step C: Perform roving treatment, during which the evenness CV% is controlled below 8%, and finally produce wool roving with a count of 3Nm, a twist of 90 twists / meter, and a twist direction of Z; Step D: Select wool roving as the finishing yarn, select 300D / 96F polyester filament fiber as the core yarn, and select 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber as the binding yarn. Use a long fiber twisting device, and feed another 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber into the output roller to balance the twist, and make a bead-like fancy yarn with random bead sizes. The bead-like fancy yarn has an inner twist of 400T / M and a twist direction of S, an outer twist of 300T / M and a twist direction of Z, a core yarn overfeed of 1.10, a finishing yarn overfeed of 2.0, and a yarn count of 1.2Nm. Step F: Rewind the dotted yarn at a speed of less than 150 meters per minute. After rewinding, clean the yarn and then wax it.
[0019] Example 3: A method for preparing a type of wool yarn, comprising the following steps: Selecting coarse Qinghai white wool with a fineness of 33μm and an average wool length of 95mm. Step B: Performing a drawing process on the wool, dividing the drawing into four sections, adopting the principle of combining multiple strands of small sliver weight to improve the evenness of the yarn. Spraying oil and water on the first section of the drawing, controlling the draft at 6, and controlling the evenness CV% below 4%; by weight percentage, the oil and water includes 1.5% antistatic agent FX-AS301, 2% wool oil FX-906, and 96.5% water. By weight percentage, the oil and water constitutes 13% of the wool weight.
[0020] Step C: Perform roving treatment, during which the evenness CV% is controlled below 8%, and finally produce wool roving with a count of 2Nm, a twist of 80 twists / meter, and a twist direction of Z; Step D: Select wool roving as the finishing yarn, select 300D / 96F polyester filament fiber as the core yarn, and select 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber as the binding yarn. Use a long fiber twisting device, and feed another 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber into the output roller to balance the twist, and make a fancy yarn with random bead sizes, with a count of 1.0Nm; the bead fancy yarn has an internal twist of 380T / M and a twist direction of S, an external twist of 260T / M and a twist direction of Z, a core yarn overfeed of 1.05, and a finishing yarn overfeed of 1.6. Step F: Rewind the dotted yarn at a speed of less than 150 meters per minute. After rewinding, clean the yarn and then wax it.
Claims
1. A method for preparing mottled wool yarn, characterized in that, It includes the following steps: Step A: Select wool with a fineness of 30-40 microns and a length of 90-100 millimeters; Step B: The wool is drawn into four sections, and the principle of combining multiple strands of small weight is adopted to improve the evenness of the yarn. Oil and water are sprayed on the first section of the drawing, and the oil and water should not be less than 10% of the weight of the wool by weight. The stretch is controlled between 5 and 7, and the yarn cv% is controlled below 4%. Step C: Perform roving treatment, during which the evenness CV% is controlled below 8%, and finally produce wool roving with a yarn count of 1.5Nm-3Nm, a twist of 70 twists / meter-90 twists / meter, and a twist direction of Z. Step D: Select wool roving as the decorative yarn, 300D / 96F polyester filament fiber as the core yarn, and 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber as the binding yarn. Use a long fiber twisting device and feed another 150D / 48F polyester filament fiber into the output roller to balance the twist, thus producing a beaded fancy yarn with randomly appearing beaded patterns of varying sizes. The inner twist of the beaded fancy yarn is 350T / M-400T / M, with the twist direction being S, and the outer twist is 250T / M-300T / M, with the twist direction being Z. The core yarn overfeed is 1.00-1.10, the decorative yarn overfeed is 1.5-2.0, and the yarn count is between 0.8Nm and 1.2Nm. Step F: Rewind the dotted yarn at a speed of less than 150 meters per minute. After rewinding, clean the yarn and then wax it.
2. The method for preparing a mozzarella wool yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step A, Qinghai Da Bai Se coarse wool with a fineness of 33μm and an average wool length of 95mm is selected.
3. The method for preparing a mozzarella wool yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step B, the oil-water mixture comprises, by mass percentage, 1.5% antistatic agent FX-AS301, 2% crude oil FX-906, and 96.5% water.
4. The method for preparing a mottled wool yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, in step D, the inner twist of the mottled fancy yarn is 380 T / M with the twist direction S, and the outer twist is 260 T / M with the twist direction Z.
5. The method for preparing a mozzarella wool yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step D, the core wire overfeed is 1.05, and the decorative wire overfeed is 1.
6.
6. The method for preparing a mozzarella wool yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step B, the oil and water content is 13% of the weight of the wool by mass percentage.