Processing technology of polyester-spandex stretch fabric

Abstract

The present invention relates to the technical field of fabric processing, and in particular to a polyester-ammonia stretch fabric processing technology, which specifically comprises the following steps: weaving, pre-shrinking and shaping, degreasing and dyeing in one bath, two reduction cleanings, and post-shaping. The present invention uses a specific compounded degreasing agent and a leveling agent in one bath to carry out degreasing and dyeing in one bath, and performs the first reduction cleaning without draining liquid after dyeing, thereby shortening the process, improving production efficiency, achieving the purpose of energy saving and emission reduction, and effectively cleaning the dyes that are not firmly bound in the fabric, preventing the disperse dyes from staining the fabric again, and utilizing the synergistic effect of various auxiliaries and process adjustment to improve the color fastness of the fabric.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of fabric processing, and in particular to a polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing technology. Background Art

[0002] Polyester-spandex knitted fabrics have the advantages of both polyester and spandex, with good drape, comfortable wrapping, excellent elasticity and good resilience, soft feel and comfortable wearing, and are widely used in sportswear, T-shirts, jackets, etc. The dyeing process of polyester-spandex fabrics mostly uses disperse dyes to dye polyester, and then removes the floating color on the polyester surface and the disperse dyes stained on the spandex through reduction cleaning. Since spandex is a fiber with a block copolymer structure, including hard segments and soft segments, its hard segments have many polar groups, but the structure is tight, and it is difficult for dyes to enter, while the soft segments are ether chains or ester chains, with loose structures, and easy for dyes to enter. They are mainly combined with fibers through van der Waals forces and hydrogen bonds, but it is difficult to generate strong forces with fibers through van der Waals forces and hydrogen bonds. Its ability to bind to dyes is weak, and it is easy to transfer dyes, causing serious color fastness problems.

[0003] In addition, according to the conventional dyeing process, degreasing before dyeing has the problem of long process flow and high water consumption, which is not suitable for the current environmental protection theme of energy conservation and emission reduction. If degreasing and dyeing can be processed in the same bath, it can effectively save time, water and energy. Summary of the invention

[0004] The invention aims to provide a polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing technology, which saves water and achieves high color fastness.

[0005] In order to achieve the above-mentioned invention object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is:

[0006] The processing technology of polyester-spandex stretch fabric specifically includes the following steps:

[0007] S1. Weaving: 75D-150D polyester low-elastic yarn and 30D-40D spandex are used to weave polyester-spandex fabric. The amount of polyester is 85%-88%, the amount of spandex is 12%-15%, and the surface density is 150g / cm 2 -220g / cm 2 ;

[0008] S2, pre-shrinking and shaping: the polyester-spandex fabric of step S1 is opened and arranged, and then pre-shrinking and shaping is performed at a temperature of 180°C-190°C, a time of 20s-30s, and a positive overfeed of 10%-15%;

[0009] S3, degreasing and dyeing in the same bath: adding dye auxiliaries and disperse dyes, adjusting the pH value to 4-4.5 with glacial acetic acid, bath ratio 1:10, then heating to 85°C±2°C and keeping warm for 10min-15min, then heating to 110°C±2°C and keeping warm for 10min-15min, then heating to 130°C±5°C and keeping warm for 30min-40min, finally cooling to 80°C±2°C; the dye auxiliaries include leveling agents and compound degreasing agents in the same bath;

[0010] S4, two reduction cleaning: without draining, adding energy-saving powder RY-320 1g / L-2g / L for the first reduction cleaning, liquid alkali 4g / L-6g / L, bath ratio 1:10, cleaning temperature 85℃-90℃, time 20min-30min; then draining, washing with water and performing the second reduction cleaning, the second reduction cleaning process conditions are: fastness enhancer RY-330 1.0g / L-1.2g / L, insurance powder 3g / L-4g / L, liquid alkali 4g / L-6g / L, bath ratio 1:10, cleaning temperature 80℃-90℃, time 20min-30min; after the second reduction cleaning, acid neutralization washing, hot water washing and then normal temperature washing are performed to obtain dyed washed cloth;

[0011] S5, post-setting: the dyed washed cloth obtained in step S4 is dipped into the post-setting liquid, positively overfed by 20%-25%, the speed is 20m / min-30m / min, and the setting temperature is 90℃-100℃.

[0012] Preferably, the inlay yarn number of the polyester low-elastic yarn is 1-0 / 2-3 / / , and the inlay yarn number of the spandex is 0-2 / 3-1 / / .

[0013] Preferably, the leveling agent is TF-213HA.

[0014] Preferably, the disperse dyes are Disperse Light Yellow 6GSL 200%, Disperse Red G and Disperse Red FFB.

[0015] Preferably, the compound one-bath degreaser is prepared from emulsified degreaser TF-1152R, a strong dispersant, an emulsifier FEMS, methyl glucose polyoxyethylene ether-20 benzoate and deionized water.

[0016] Preferably, the strong dispersant is sodium methylene bisnaphthalene sulfonate and water in a mass ratio of 1:2.7-3.3.

[0017] Preferably, the amount of the emulsified degreasing agent TF-1152R is 0.5% owf-0.8% owf, the amount of the strong dispersant is 0.4% owf-0.6% owf, the amount of the emulsifier FEMS is 0.15g / L-0.25g / L, and the amount of the methyl glucose polyoxyethylene ether-20 benzoate is 0.2g / L-0.4g / L.

[0018] Preferably, the heating rate of each stage in step S3 is controlled at 1°C / min-1.2°C / min.

[0019] Preferably, the cooling rate in step S3 is 1.5°C / min-2°C / min.

[0020] Preferably, the finishing liquid includes a moisture wicking agent and / or an antibacterial agent, and the squeeze-out rate is 70%-80%.

[0021] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0022] The processing technology of the present invention includes weaving, pre-shrinking and shaping, degreasing and dyeing in one bath, and two reduction cleanings and post-setting. A specific compounded degreasing agent and leveling agent are used to treat degreasing and dyeing in one bath, and the first reduction cleaning is performed without draining after dyeing, which shortens the process and improves production efficiency. While achieving the purpose of energy saving and emission reduction, it can effectively clean the dyes that are not firmly bound in the fabric, prevent the disperse dyes from staining the fabric again, and improve the color fastness of the fabric by using the synergistic effect of various auxiliaries and process adjustment. The internal stress of spandex is eliminated by pre-shrinking and shaping, so that the quality indicators such as fabric width, gram weight and fabric elasticity are in a stable state, and the wrinkles on the fabric are suppressed in coordination with the dyeing process curve design, so that the fabric surface always maintains a flat effect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] Example 1

[0024] This embodiment provides a polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing process, which specifically includes the following steps:

[0025] S1. Weaving: 150D / 288F polyester low-elastic yarn and 40D spandex are warp-knitted at a ratio of 88%:12% to obtain a polyester-spandex grey fabric. The polyester low-elastic yarn warp knitting is a warp satin structure with a padding number of 1-0 / 2-3 / / , and the spandex warp knitting is a heavy warp satin structure with a padding number of 0-2 / 3-1 / / , with a surface density of 220g / cm 2 .

[0026] S2, pre-shrinking and shaping: the polyester-spandex fabric of step S1 is opened and arranged, and then pre-shrinking and shaping is performed at a temperature of 185° C., a time of 25 seconds, and a positive overfeed of 15%.

[0027] S3, degreasing and dyeing in the same bath: add dye auxiliaries and disperse dyes, adjust the pH value to 4.5 with glacial acetic acid, and the bath ratio is 1:10. Wherein: the disperse dyes are 0.828% owf Disperse Light Yellow 6GSL 200%, 1% owf Disperse Red G and 0.07% owf Disperse Red FFB; the dye auxiliaries include 1% owf leveling agent TF-213HA and a compound degreasing agent in the same bath, the compound degreasing agent in the same bath is prepared by 0.5% owf emulsified degreasing agent TF-1152R, 0.5% owf strong dispersant, 0.2g / L emulsifier FEMS, 0.4g / L methyl glucose polyoxyethylene ether-20 benzoate and deionized water, and the strong dispersant is sodium methylene bis naphthalene sulfonate and water in a mass ratio of 1:3.

[0028] The dyeing curve is as follows: first, the temperature is increased to 85°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min and kept for 10 minutes, then the temperature is increased to 110°C at a heating rate of 1.2°C / min and kept for 10 minutes, then the temperature is increased to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min and kept for 30 minutes, and finally the temperature is decreased to 80°C at a cooling rate of 1.5°C / min.

[0029] S4, two reduction cleanings: without draining, add energy-saving powder RY-320 2g / L for the first reduction cleaning, the cleaning temperature is 85℃, and the time is 20min; then drain and wash with water for the second reduction cleaning, the process conditions for the second reduction cleaning are: fastness enhancer RY-330 1.0g / L, insurance powder 3.5g / L, liquid alkali 6g / L, bath ratio 1:10, cleaning temperature 90℃, time 30min; after the second reduction cleaning, acid neutralization washing, 80℃ hot water washing and then room temperature washing are carried out to obtain dyed washed cloth.

[0030] S5, post-setting: the dyed washed cloth obtained in step S4 is immersed in the post-setting liquid, positive overfeeding is 20%, the speed is 25m / min, and the setting temperature is 100°C. Preferably, the post-setting liquid includes 20g / L moisture absorption and perspiration agent TF-4097A and 20g / L antibacterial agent TF-619, the pressure is 0.5MPa, and the liquid pressing rate is 80%.

[0031] Example 2

[0032] This embodiment provides a polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing process, which specifically includes the following steps:

[0033] S1. Weaving: 75D / 144F polyester low-elastic yarn and 40D spandex are warp-knitted at a ratio of 85%:15% to obtain a polyester-spandex grey fabric. The polyester low-elastic yarn warp knitting is a warp satin structure with a padding number of 1-0 / 2-3 / / , and the spandex warp knitting is a heavy warp satin structure with a padding number of 0-2 / 3-1 / / , with a surface density of 150g / cm 2 .

[0034] S2, pre-shrinking and shaping: the polyester-spandex fabric of step S1 is opened and arranged, and then pre-shrinking and shaping is performed at a temperature of 180° C., a time of 30 seconds, and a positive overfeed of 15%.

[0035] S3, degreasing and dyeing in the same bath: add dye auxiliaries and disperse dyes, adjust the pH value to 4 with glacial acetic acid, and the bath ratio is 1:10. Wherein: the disperse dyes are 0.828% owf disperse yellow 6GSL 200%, 1% owf disperse red G and 0.07% owf disperse red FFB; the dye auxiliaries include 1% owf leveling agent TF-213HA and a compound degreasing agent in the same bath, the compound degreasing agent in the same bath is prepared by 0.8% owf emulsified degreasing agent TF-1152R, 0.4% owf strong dispersant, 0.25g / L emulsifier FEMS, 0.25g / L methyl glucose polyoxyethylene ether-20 benzoate and deionized water, and the strong dispersant is sodium methylene bis naphthalene sulfonate and water in a mass ratio of 1:3.3.

[0036] The dyeing curve is as follows: first, the temperature is increased to 85°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min and kept for 10 minutes, then the temperature is increased to 110°C at a heating rate of 1.2°C / min and kept for 10 minutes, then the temperature is increased to 130°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min and kept for 40 minutes, and finally the temperature is decreased to 80°C at a cooling rate of 1.8°C / min.

[0037] S4, two reduction cleaning: without draining, add energy-saving powder RY-320 1.5g / L for the first reduction cleaning, the cleaning temperature is 90℃, and the time is 20min; then drain and wash with water for the second reduction cleaning, the process conditions of the second reduction cleaning are: fastness enhancer RY-330 1.0g / L, insurance powder 3.5g / L, liquid alkali 4g / L, bath ratio 1:10, cleaning temperature 90℃, time 30min; after the second reduction cleaning, acid neutralization washing, 80℃ hot water washing and then room temperature washing are carried out to obtain dyed washed cloth.

[0038] S5, post-setting: the dyed washed cloth obtained in step S4 is immersed in the post-setting liquid, positive overfeeding is 20%, the speed is 20m / min, and the setting temperature is 95°C. Preferably, the post-setting liquid includes 20g / L moisture absorption and perspiration agent TF-4097A and 20g / L antibacterial agent TF-619, the pressure is 0.5MPa, and the liquid pressing rate is 70%.

[0039] Comparative Example 1

[0040] The difference between this comparative example and the above-mentioned Example 1 is that the emulsifier FEMS is replaced by an equal amount of AC-1812.

[0041] Comparative Example 2

[0042] This comparative example differs from Example 1 above only in the absence of methyl gluceth-20 benzoate.

[0043] Comparative Example 3

[0044] The difference between this comparative example and the above-mentioned embodiment 1 is that after dyeing and cooling in step S3, the liquid is drained, washed with water, and then the second reduction washing is performed.

[0045] The polyester / spandex fabrics of the above-mentioned Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were respectively tested for color fastness, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0046] Table 1: Color fastness test results of polyester-spandex fabrics of Examples 1-2 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1-3

[0047]

[0048] The above shows and describes the basic principles, main features and advantages of the present invention. Those skilled in the art should understand that the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments. The above embodiments and descriptions are only for illustrating the principles of the present invention. Without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, the present invention may have various changes and improvements, which shall fall within the scope of the present invention to be protected. The scope of protection of the present invention shall be defined by the attached claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. The polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing technology is characterized by: The specific steps include: S1. Weaving: 75D-150D polyester low-elastic yarn and 30D-40D spandex are used to weave polyester-spandex fabric. The amount of polyester is 85%-88%, the amount of spandex is 12%-15%, and the surface density is 150g / cm 2 -220g / cm 2 ; S2, pre-shrinking and shaping: the polyester-spandex fabric of step S1 is opened and arranged, and then pre-shrinking and shaping is performed at a temperature of 180°C-190°C, a time of 20s-30s, and a positive overfeed of 10%-15%; S3, degreasing and dyeing in the same bath: adding dye auxiliaries and disperse dyes, adjusting the pH value to 4-4.5 with glacial acetic acid, bath ratio 1:10, then heating to 85°C±2°C and keeping warm for 10min-15min, then heating to 110°C±2°C and keeping warm for 10min-15min, then heating to 130°C±5°C and keeping warm for 30min-40min, and finally cooling to 80°C±2°C; the dye auxiliaries include leveling agents and compound degreasing agents in the same bath; The compound one-bath degreaser is prepared from emulsified degreaser TF-1152R, a strong dispersant, an emulsifier FEMS, methyl glucose polyoxyethylene ether-20 benzoate and deionized water; the strong dispersant is prepared from sodium methylene bisnaphthalene sulfonate and water in a mass ratio of 1:2.7-3.3; The amount of the emulsified degreasing agent TF-1152R is 0.5% owf-0.8% owf, the amount of the strong dispersant is 0.4% owf-0.6% owf, the amount of the emulsifier FEMS is 0.15g / L-0.25g / L, and the amount of the methyl glucose polyoxyethylene ether-20 benzoate is 0.2g / L-0.4g / L; S4, two reduction cleaning: without draining, add energy-saving powder RY-320 1g / L-2g / L for the first reduction cleaning, the cleaning temperature is 85℃-90℃, the time is 20min-30min; then drain and wash with water for the second reduction cleaning, the second reduction cleaning process conditions are: fastness enhancer RY-330 1.0g / L-1.2g / L, insurance powder 3g / L-4g / L, liquid alkali 4g / L-6g / L, bath ratio 1:10, cleaning temperature 80℃-90℃, time 20min-30min; after the second reduction cleaning, acid neutralization washing, hot water washing and then normal temperature washing are carried out to obtain dyed washed cloth; S5, post-setting: the dyed washed cloth obtained in step S4 is dipped into the post-setting liquid, positively overfed by 20%-25%, the speed is 20m / min-30m / min, and the setting temperature is 90℃-100℃.

2. The polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: The inlay yarn number of the polyester low-elastic yarn is 1-0 / 2-3 / / , and the inlay yarn number of the spandex is 0-2 / 3-1 / / .

3. The polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: The leveling agent is TF-213HA.

4. The polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing process according to claim 1, characterized in that: The disperse dyes are disperse yellow 6GSL 200%, disperse red G and disperse red FFB.

5. The polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing process according to claim 1, characterized in that: The heating rate of each stage in step S3 is controlled at 1°C / min-1.2°C / min.

6. The polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cooling rate in step S3 is 1.5°C / min-2°C / min.

7. The polyester-spandex stretch fabric processing process according to claim 1, characterized in that: The post-finishing liquid includes a moisture absorption and perspiration releasing agent and / or an antibacterial agent, and the liquid squeeze rate is 70%-80%.

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