Pattern making method of underarm one-piece insert

Abstract

The invention discloses a pattern making method of an oxter one-piece insert. The pattern making method comprises the steps that a bodice front piece and a sleeve front piece are matched, and a bodice rear piece and a sleeve rear piece are in a rotator sleeve inserting state; making a first rectangle and a second rectangle by taking an intersection point of a first parallel line parallel to a bodice chest line and a first angular bisector of an acute angle formed by a sleeve body side sewing line and a bodice side sewing line as a vertex; making a third rectangle and a fourth rectangle by taking the intersection point of the midperpendicular of the extension line of the bodice side seam of the bodice rear piece and the second angular bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve body side seam and the bodice side seam as the vertex; and the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are spliced to divide and cover the sleeve front piece, the bodice front piece, the sleeve rear piece and the bodice rear piece to form the armpit one-piece insertion piece. According to the invention, the armpit one-piece insertion piece capable of improving the hand raising amount of a dressed human body can be rapidly manufactured.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a method for making a clothing pattern, in particular to a method for making a pattern of an underarm one-piece insert. Background Art

[0002] Armpit inserts are a technical means in clothing design, mainly used in sportswear, casual wear and other clothing that require a large range of motion. The original intention of its design is to improve the comfort of the wearer, to meet the upper body arm's reach when the human body is moving, especially when the arms are raised significantly or doing other movements, to avoid affecting the freedom of movement due to clothing restrictions. Existing armpit insert pattern making is usually converted and designed on the drawing of one-piece sleeves or raglan sleeves, and requires many steps to adjust and check the fit of the insert with the body and sleeves. Summary of the invention

[0003] In view of the above-mentioned defects of the prior art, the task of the present invention is to provide a method for making a pattern of an underarm one-piece insert, which satisfies the corresponding sewing relationship of each cut piece and completes the pattern making quickly and efficiently.

[0004] The technical solution of the present invention is as follows: A method for making a plate of an underarm one-piece insert comprises the following steps:

[0005] Step 1: Fit the front piece of the body and the front piece of the sleeve, and the back piece of the body and the back piece of the sleeve to form a raglan sleeve state;

[0006] Step 2, operate the front piece of the body and the front piece of the sleeve, the intersection of the first parallel line and the first angle bisector is point A, the intersection of the cuff line of the front piece of the sleeve and the side seam of the sleeve is point C1, and the intersection of the hem line of the front piece of the body and the side seam of the body is C2, wherein the first parallel line is located above the bust line of the body and parallel to the bust line of the body, and the first angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the side seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the body; take point A and point C1 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and take the cuff line and the side seam of the sleeve as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a first rectangle; take point A and point C2 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and take the hem line and the side seam of the body as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a second rectangle;

[0007] Step 3, operate the back piece and the sleeve back piece, extend the side seam of the back piece upward to point F1, the intersection of the cuff line of the back piece and the side seam of the sleeve is point F1', the length of F1 F1' is the sum of the long side of the first rectangle and the long side of the second rectangle, the intersection of the perpendicular bisector of F1 F1' and the second angle bisector is point E, the intersection of the hem line of the back piece and the side seam of the body is F2, the second angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the side seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the body; take point E and point F1' as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, take the cuff line and the side seam of the sleeve as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a third rectangle; take point A and point F2 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, take the hem line and the side seam of the body as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a fourth rectangle;

[0008] Step 4: Assemble the sleeve front piece, body front piece, sleeve back piece and body back piece divided and covered by the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle to form an underarm one-piece insert.

[0009] Furthermore, step 4 includes dividing the sleeve front piece with the long side of the first rectangle as the dividing line, and dividing the body front piece with the long side of the second rectangle as the dividing line; dividing the sleeve back piece with the long side of the third rectangle as the dividing line, and dividing the body back piece with the long side of the fourth rectangle as the dividing line.

[0010] Furthermore, when the sleeve front piece, the body front piece, the sleeve back piece and the body back piece divided and covered by the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are assembled to form the underarm one-piece insert, the first rectangle and the second rectangle are aligned and assembled with the short side where point A is located, and after the assembly, the opposite side of the rectangular side where point A is located is the front seam line, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are aligned and assembled with the short side where point E is located, and after the assembly, the opposite side of the rectangular side where point E is located is the back seam line, and then the front seam line and the back seam line are aligned to assemble the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle.

[0011] Furthermore, step 1 includes taking corresponding matching points on the armhole arcs of the front body piece and the back body piece, aligning the front sleeve piece with the front body piece through the matching points and rotating the front sleeve piece to match the front body piece to form a raglan sleeve state, and aligning the back sleeve piece with the back body piece through the matching points and rotating the front sleeve piece to match the back body piece to form a raglan sleeve state.

[0012] Furthermore, the distance between the matching point and the bust line of the body is no more than 4 cm.

[0013] Furthermore, the distance between the first parallel line and the bust line is 1 to 4 cm.

[0014] Further, the method comprises step 5, taking the sleeve center line as the joining line, merging the remaining parts of the sleeve front piece and the sleeve back piece divided by the first rectangle and the third rectangle.

[0015] Furthermore, step 2 includes smoothing the transition between the sleeve cap arc of the sleeve front piece and the short side where point A of the first rectangle is located, and smoothing the transition between the armhole arc of the body front piece and the short side where point A of the second rectangle is located.

[0016] Furthermore, step 3 includes smoothing the transition between the sleeve cap arc of the sleeve back piece and the short side where point E of the third rectangle is located, and smoothing the transition between the armhole arc of the body back piece and the short side where point E of the fourth rectangle is located.

[0017] The advantages of the present invention compared with the prior art are:

[0018] This patent uses raglan sleeve mapping technology and symmetrical geometry principles to quickly and accurately construct underarm body panels. The cut pieces extracted from the underarm body panel design are more concise and regular, and the corresponding stitching relationship of the cut pieces is simpler, which can reduce the production cost and production time of the garment. The garments produced by this method can effectively improve the amount of hand lifting for the wearer, making the garment both comfortable, functional and beautiful. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0019] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the original sleeve front piece and sleeve back piece.

[0020] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of the original front piece.

[0021] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of the original rear piece.

[0022] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the alignment of the original sleeve front piece and the original body front piece.

[0023] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the alignment of the original sleeve back piece and the original body back piece.

[0024] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram for determining the position of point A.

[0025] Figure 7 It is a schematic diagram for determining the first rectangle and the second rectangle.

[0026] Figure 8 This is a schematic diagram for determining the position of point E.

[0027] Fig. 9 This is a schematic diagram for determining the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle.

[0028] Fig.10 It is a schematic diagram of the combination of the first rectangle and the second rectangle.

[0029] Fig.11 This is a schematic diagram of the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle combined.

[0030] Fig.12It is a schematic diagram of the four-piece structure.

[0031] Fig.13 This is a schematic diagram of the final garment structure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0032] The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the embodiments, but are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0033] The embodiment of the present invention provides a method for making a plate of an underarm one-piece insert, comprising the following steps:

[0034] Step 1, fit the front body piece 3 with the front sleeve piece 1, and the back body piece 4 with the back sleeve piece 2 to form a raglan sleeve state. Specifically, corresponding matching points are taken on the arc lines of the armhole 5 of the front body piece 3 and the back body piece 4, the front sleeve piece 1 is aligned with the front body piece 3 through the matching points and the front sleeve piece 1 is rotated to fit the front body piece 3 to form a raglan sleeve state, the back sleeve piece 2 is aligned with the back body piece 4 through the matching points and the front sleeve piece 1 is rotated to fit the back body piece 4 to form a raglan sleeve state.

[0035] Please combine Figures 1 to 5 In this step, a traditional body and original sleeve structure are prepared as a basic model, the body is divided into a large front and a large back piece 4 with the side seam as the dividing line, and the sleeve is divided into a sleeve front piece 1 and a sleeve back piece 2 with the sleeve center line as the dividing line.

[0036] Within the range of 4cm above the bust line 7, select a matching point O1 on the armhole 5 arc of the front piece 3 and a matching point O2 on the armhole 5 arc of the back piece 4, with O1 and O2 being parallel to the bust line 7. Align the sleeve cap 6 arc of the front sleeve piece 1 with the matching point O1, ensure that the length of the armhole 5 arc from the matching point O1 to the bottom of the armpit is equal to the length of the sleeve cap 6 arc, rotate and move the front sleeve piece 1 to match the front piece 3 to form a raglan sleeve state. Align the sleeve cap 6 arc of the back sleeve piece 2 with the matching point O2, ensure that the length of the armhole 5 arc from the matching point O2 to the bottom of the armpit is equal to the length of the sleeve cap 6 arc, rotate and move the back sleeve piece 2 to match the back piece 4 to form a raglan sleeve state.

[0037] Step 2, operate the main body front piece 3 and the sleeve front piece 1, the intersection of the first parallel line 8 and the first angle bisector 9 is point A, the intersection of the cuff line of the sleeve front piece 1 and the sleeve side seam line is point C1, the intersection of the hem line of the main body front piece 3 and the main body side seam line is C2, with point A and point C1 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and the cuff line and the sleeve side seam line as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a first rectangle; with point A and point C2 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and the hem line and the main body side seam line as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a second rectangle.

[0038] For details, please combine Figure 6 , Figure 7As shown, first draw a first parallel line 8 parallel to the bust line 7 of the front piece 3, the distance between the first parallel line 8 and the bust line 7 is 1 to 4 cm and it is located above the bust line 7. Then draw the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam of the front piece 1 and the side seam of the front piece 3 as the first angle bisector 9. The intersection of the first parallel line 8 and the first angle bisector 9 is point A. When drawing the first rectangle and the second rectangle, draw a vertical line through point A between the sleeve side seam of the front piece 1 and the side seam of the front piece 3, and the extended sleeve side seam of the front piece 1 and the side seam of the front piece 3 intersect with the aforementioned vertical line to obtain points B1 and B2. Then draw a vertical line through point A to the cuff line of the front piece 1 and intersect with the cuff line at point D1, and draw a vertical line through point A to the hem line of the front piece 3 and intersect with the hem line at point D2. The intersection of the sleeve cuff line of the sleeve front piece 1 and the sleeve side seam line is point C1, and the intersection of the hem line of the body front piece 3 and the body side seam line is point C2. From these points, two closed figures can be obtained, namely, the first rectangle is AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle is AB2C2D2. The first rectangle AB1C1D1 is the sleeve side front insert, the second rectangle AB2C2D2 is the side front insert, and the shaded part is the incremental area of ​​the armpit bottom. Fig.10 As shown, with the short side AB1 where point A of the first rectangle is located and the short side AB2 where point A of the second rectangle is located as the coincidence line, the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 are merged to form a complete figure C1D1D2C2 of the front underarm one-piece insert, C1C2 is the side seam line, and D1D2 is the dividing modeling line. The merging of the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 can be processed together in step 4.

[0039] The arc line of the sleeve cap 6 of the sleeve front piece 1 is adjusted to make a smooth transition with the short side AB1 where the point A of the first rectangle is located, and the arc line of the armhole 5 of the body front piece 3 is adjusted to make a smooth transition with the short side AB2 where the point A of the second rectangle is located.

[0040] Step 3, operate the back piece 4 and the sleeve back piece 2, extend the side seam of the back piece 4 upward to point F1, the intersection of the cuff line of the sleeve back piece 2 and the side seam of the sleeve is point F1', the length of F1F1' is the sum of the long sides of the first rectangle and the second rectangle, the intersection of the perpendicular bisector of F1F1' and the second angle bisector 10 is point E, the intersection of the hem line of the back piece 4 and the side seam of the body is F2, the second angle bisector 10 is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the side seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the body; use point E and point F1' as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and use the cuff line and the side seam of the sleeve as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a third rectangle; use point A and point F2 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and use the hem line and the side seam of the sleeve as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a fourth rectangle.

[0041] Please combine the specific Figure 8 , Fig. 9As shown, first extend the side seam of the body back piece 4 upward to point F1, so that the length of F1F1' is the same as D1D2. If the first rectangle is not combined into AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 in step 2, the length of F1F1' is equal to the sum of the long side AD1 of the first rectangle and the long side AD2 of the second rectangle. Point F1' is the intersection of the cuff line and the side seam of the sleeve back piece 2. The angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the side seam of the sleeve back piece 2 and the side seam of the body back piece 4 is the second angle bisector 10. The perpendicular bisector of F1F1' intersects with the second angle bisector 10 to determine point E. When making the third and fourth rectangles, draw a perpendicular line through point E between the sleeve side seam of the back sleeve piece 2 and the body side seam of the front body piece 4. The extended sleeve side seam of the back sleeve piece 2 and the body side seam of the front body piece 4 intersect with the aforementioned perpendicular lines to obtain points G1 and G2. Draw a perpendicular line through point E to the cuff line of the back sleeve piece 2 and intersect with the cuff line at point H1. Draw a perpendicular line through point E to the hem line of the front body piece 4 and intersect with the hem line at point H2. The intersection of the cuff line of the back sleeve piece 2 and the sleeve side seam is point F1', and the intersection of the hem line of the front body piece 3 and the body side seam is F2. Two closed figures can be obtained from these points, namely the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2. The third rectangle EG1F1'H1 is the sleeve side back insert, the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 is the side back insert, and the shaded part is the incremental area of ​​the armpit bottom. As shown in Fig.11 As shown, the short side EG1 where point E of the third rectangle is located and the short side EG2 where point E of the fourth rectangle is located are used as coincidence lines, and the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 are combined to form a complete figure F1'F2H2H1 of the back underarm one-piece insert, H1H2 is the side seam line, and F1'F2 is the dividing modeling line. The combination of the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 can be processed together in step 4.

[0042] The arc line of the sleeve cap 6 of the sleeve back piece 2 is adjusted to make a smooth transition with the short side EG1 where the point E of the third rectangle is located, and the arc line of the armhole 5 of the body back piece 4 is adjusted to make a smooth transition with the short side EG2 where the point E of the fourth rectangle is located.

[0043] Step 4: Use the long side of the first rectangle as the dividing line to divide the sleeve front piece 1, use the long side of the second rectangle as the dividing line to divide the body front piece 3; use the long side of the third rectangle as the dividing line to divide the sleeve back piece 2, and use the long side of the fourth rectangle as the dividing line to divide the body back piece 4. The sleeve front piece 1, body front piece 3, sleeve back piece 2, and body back piece 4 divided and covered by the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle, and the fourth rectangle are assembled to form an underarm one-piece insert.

[0044] Specifically, as described in steps 2 and 3, the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 are merged, and the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 are merged. After the splicing, the opposite side C1C2 of the rectangular side where point A is located is the front seam line, and the opposite side F1'F2 of the rectangular side where point E is located is the back seam line. Then align (i.e. overlap) the front seam line C1C2 and the back seam line F1'F2 to splice the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle to obtain the underarm one-piece insert D1D2H2H1.

[0045] Step 5: With the sleeve centerline as the matching line, merge the remaining parts of the sleeve front piece 1 and the sleeve back piece 2 divided by the first rectangle and the third rectangle, and obtain the sleeve piece AD1H1E. The remaining part of the original body front piece 3 after being divided by the second rectangle is the final body front piece 11, and the remaining part of the original body back piece 4 after being divided by the fourth rectangle is the final body back piece 12. Fig.12 As shown. Sewing the pieces together according to the stitching relationship can produce the final garment effect as shown Fig.13 shown.

[0046] The present invention uses the advantages of symmetrical geometry to design the increment of the underarm insert. This process determines the armpit bottom elevation point and builds a right-angle relationship between the point and the side, which is convenient for the subsequent sample merging operation. In actual operation, the linear shape of the segmentation modeling line can be further optimized to achieve a beautiful and comfortable effect.

Claims

1. A method for making a plate of an underarm one-piece insert, characterized in that: include: Step 1: Fit the front piece of the body and the front piece of the sleeve, and the back piece of the body and the back piece of the sleeve to form a raglan sleeve state; Step 2, operate the body front piece and the sleeve front piece, the intersection point of the first parallel line and the first angle bisector is point A, the intersection point of the cuff line of the sleeve front piece and the sleeve side seam line is point C1, the intersection point of the hem line of the body front piece and the body side seam line is C2, wherein the first parallel line is located above the body bust line and parallel to the body bust line, and the first angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam line and the body side seam line; A first rectangle is constructed with point A and point C1 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and the cuff line and the sleeve side seam line as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle; a second rectangle is constructed with point A and point C2 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, and the hem line and the body side seam line as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle; Step 3, operate the back piece and the sleeve back piece, extend the side seam of the back piece upward to point F1, the intersection of the cuff line of the back piece and the side seam of the sleeve is point F1', the length of F1 F1' is the sum of the long side of the first rectangle and the long side of the second rectangle, the intersection of the perpendicular bisector of F1 F1' and the second angle bisector is point E, the intersection of the hem line of the back piece and the side seam of the body is F2, the second angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the side seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the body; take point E and point F1' as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, take the cuff line and the side seam of the sleeve as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a third rectangle; take point A and point F2 as the diagonal vertices of the rectangle, take the hem line and the side seam of the body as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a fourth rectangle; Step 4: Assemble the sleeve front piece, body front piece, sleeve back piece and body back piece divided and covered by the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle to form an underarm one-piece insert.

2. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step 4 includes dividing the sleeve front piece with the long side of the first rectangle as the dividing line, dividing the main body front piece with the long side of the second rectangle as the dividing line; dividing the sleeve back piece with the long side of the third rectangle as the dividing line, and dividing the main body back piece with the long side of the fourth rectangle as the dividing line.

3. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: When the sleeve front piece, the body front piece, the sleeve back piece and the body back piece divided and covered by the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are assembled to form the underarm one-piece insert, the first rectangle and the second rectangle are aligned and assembled with the short side where point A is located. After the assembly, the opposite side of the rectangular side where point A is located is the front seam line. The third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are aligned and assembled with the short side where point E is located. After the assembly, the opposite side of the rectangular side where point E is located is the back seam line. Then align the front seam line and the back seam line to assemble the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle.

4. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step 1 comprises taking corresponding matching points on the armhole arc lines of the front body piece and the back body piece, aligning the front sleeve piece with the front body piece through the matching points and rotating the front sleeve piece to match the front body piece to form a raglan sleeve state, and aligning the back sleeve piece with the back body piece through the matching points and rotating the front sleeve piece to match the back body piece to form a raglan sleeve state.

5. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 4, characterized in that: The distance between the matching point and the bust line of the body is no more than 4 cm.

6. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 1, characterized in that: The distance between the first parallel line and the bust line is 1 to 4 cm.

7. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 1, characterized in that: The method comprises step 5, taking the sleeve center line as the matching line, and merging the remaining parts of the sleeve front piece and the sleeve back piece divided by the first rectangle and the third rectangle.

8. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step 2 includes adjusting the sleeve cap arc of the sleeve front piece to make a smooth transition with the short side where point A of the first rectangle is located, and adjusting the armhole arc of the body front piece to make a smooth transition with the short side where point A of the second rectangle is located.

9. The method for making a plate of an underarm body insert according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step 3 includes adjusting the sleeve cap arc of the sleeve back piece to make a smooth transition with the short side where the point E of the third rectangle is located, and adjusting the armhole arc of the body back piece to make a smooth transition with the short side where the point E of the fourth rectangle is located.

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