Preparation method of durable machine-washable real silk fabric

Abstract

The invention discloses a durable machine-washable real silk fabric preparation method, which comprises: (1) a soaking process, (2) a winding, drawing and twisting process, (3) warp stitching: adopting a changing and regular left-right twisting arrangement mode during warp stitching, so that the elasticity of the fabric is balanced, and the fabric product has a certain shrink resistance; in cooperation with a warping machine, the tension consistency of each yarn is kept; (4) weaving process: after the warp is inserted, weaving by a weaving machine, selecting the tension on the machine to be (22 + / -2) cN, and matching with proper warp and weft density: the weft density is 45-49 pieces / cm, and the warp density is 100-103 pieces / cm; (5) product pretreatment: degumming and whitening treatment; performing a filling and steaming process; (6) dyeing process: fabric treatment, dyeing, acid pickling, soaping, water washing and cold water coiling; (7) an anti-wrinkle after-finishing process; according to the invention, the fabric has good elasticity, and has the functions of wrinkle resistance, shrink resistance, machine washability and the like; meanwhile, the fabric is good in ultraviolet resistance, antibacterial property and crease resistance.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field related to the improvement of the preparation method of silk fabrics, and particularly relates to a preparation method of durable machine-washable silk fabrics. Background Art

[0002] The existing common silk fabrics have relatively poor wrinkle resistance, shrinkage resistance and machine washability; generally, the appearance will be damaged after machine washing twice; at the same time, they are prone to whitening, pilling, and wrinkling after machine washing, and the gloss and color will also deteriorate; in addition, the existing silk fabrics also have poor UV resistance and antibacterial properties.

[0003] To this end, we developed a method for preparing durable machine-washable silk fabric. Summary of the invention

[0004] The object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing durable machine-washable silk fabric.

[0005] To achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solution: a method for preparing a durable machine-washable silk fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0006] (1) Soaking process: select raw materials with greatly improved elastic modulus and elongation, loose stretched silk, fluffy fiber, good smoothness, soft hand feel, less static electricity, and good cohesion as raw materials for product production; soak again; select Chuanhua TF-404A silk softener, the bath ratio is 1-1.5:6, the amount of auxiliary agent is 5-8kg, the soaking time is 18-20h, and the soaking temperature is 45-60℃;

[0007] (2) Winding, doubling and twisting process: After the raw materials are soaked, they are dried at a set time and temperature, and the stranded factory silk is winded and doubling into the required thickness of the product. The raw materials after doubling are then subjected to a strong twisting process using a twisting machine; the warp twist is selected to be 1200-1500 twists / m, and the weft twist is selected to be 2000-2400 twists / m; the raw materials with high twist are shaped by steam in a steamer, and then naturally cooled, rewound, and shaped in a rehumidification chamber, so that the raw materials have a good twist effect, and the differences and unevenness between fibers are reduced, thereby improving the quality of the silk;

[0008] (3) Warp wefting: After the preparation of warp and weft is completed, the warp begins to weave and the weft is ready for weaving. The warp weft is twisted in a regular and variable way to balance the elasticity of the fabric, reduce the weft weft tension and increase the tension of the upper shaft to reduce the shrinkage of the fabric and make the fabric product shrink-proof. The warp machine is used to minimize warp defects and keep the tension of each yarn consistent.

[0009] (4) Weaving process: After warping, the weaving is done on a loom with a tension of (22±2) cN and appropriate warp and weft densities: 45-49 threads / cm for weft and 100-103 threads / cm for warp, so that the raw materials are reasonably matched to produce the best fabric effect;

[0010] (5) Product pre-treatment:

[0011] Degumming and scouring: scouring in trough, synthetic detergent-alkali scouring, the specific process is as follows:

[0012] First, use 1.5-2g / L of soda ash, 1-1.5g / L of sodium carbonate, 1.2-1.5g / L of trisodium phosphate, 4-4.5g / L of dispersant WA, and 0.55-0.625g / L of sodium hydrosulfite synthetic detergent; then use a bath ratio of 1-2:60, a pH value of 9.5-10, 98-100℃, 60-80min of scouring, then 50-60℃, 10-15min of water washing, and then 10-15min of water washing at room temperature;

[0013] Steaming process: add finishing aids, set the steaming temperature to 100-120℃, and the time to 3-4h to achieve the ideal machine washability;

[0014] (6) Dyeing process:

[0015] Process flow: fabric treatment → dyeing → pickling → soaping → washing → cold water rolling;

[0016] Process prescription and conditions:

[0017] Dyeing formula: dye 1-2% (owf), peregrine 0.2-0.3g / L, acetic acid 0.1-0.2g / L, bath ratio 1-2:15; soaping formula: detergent 200-2091g / L, Na2O3 0.7-1g / L;

[0018] Soap washing process: 80-90℃×l5-20min;

[0019] Dyeing starts at 30-40℃, first dyeing 4 times; then heat up to 90-100℃, add half diluted acetic acid solution in the 5th and 6th times respectively to promote dyeing, and make the dye stained on the viscose fiber gradually transfer to the silk fiber; after adding acetic acid, dyeing is continued for 1 time, and a small sample is cut for color matching in the last time; after dyeing, drain the dye solution, wash with 90-100℃ water for 1 time, and then fully wash the stain on the viscose fiber, finally boil with soap for 4 times, wash with 60-70℃ and 40-50℃ hot water for 1 time each, and roll up with cold water;

[0020] (7) Anti-wrinkle finishing process: The silk fabric is finished with an anti-wrinkle finishing agent prepared from β-cyclodextrin, chitosan, a cross-linking agent, a penetrant and acetic acid; wherein the cross-linking agent is an organic polycarboxylic acid or an amino silicone oil emulsion, and the penetrant is JFC or Periga O; the bath ratio is 1-2:20, the silk fabric is immersed in the finishing solution at 30-90°C for 20-30 minutes, dehydrated, dried at 90-95°C, and hot-air baked at 120-150°C for 3-5 minutes to obtain the corresponding finished silk fabric.

[0021] Preferably, the product prepared by the method for preparing the durable machine-washable silk fabric has an optimal wrinkle recovery angle of 257°.

[0022] Preferably, when the proportion of the finishing agent components in step (7) is 8-10 g / L of β-cyclodextrin, 8-10 g / L of chitosan, and 0.8-1 g / L of cross-linking agent, the penetrant is used to improve the penetration effect, and the dosage is generally 0.3-0.5 g / L. Acetic acid is used to adjust the pH value of the solution, and the dosage is generally 0.2-0.4 g / L. The pH value is preferably 3-8, neutral or acidic, and the bath ratio is 1-1.5:20. The silk fabric is immersed in the finishing solution at 50-60°C for 20-30 minutes, dehydrated, dried at 80-90°C, and hot air baked at 120-150°C for 3-5 minutes. The anti-wrinkle performance of the finished sample is the best, and it also has good anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial properties.

[0023] Compared with the prior art, the present invention provides a method for preparing a durable machine-washable silk fabric, which has the following beneficial effects:

[0024] The preparation method of the durable machine-washable silk fabric of the present invention adjusts the optimal twist through the doubling and re-twisting process, and uses a variable but regular twist arrangement and combination mode, with appropriate warp and weft density, and adopts a variable organizational structure, so that the fabric has good elasticity, wrinkle resistance, shrinkage resistance, machine washability and the like functions; and then uses a wrinkle-resistant finishing agent prepared by compounding β-cyclodextrin, chitosan, a cross-linking agent, a penetrant and acetic acid to post-finish the silk fabric, thereby giving the silk fabric multiple finishing functions of anti-ultraviolet, antibacterial and anti-wrinkle, and further improving the machine washability of the silk fabric. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0025] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0026] The present invention provides a technical solution: a method for preparing a durable machine-washable silk fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0027] (1) Soaking process: The selection and utilization of raw materials is a key step in product development. If the bending resistance and elasticity of the fiber can be improved, the wrinkle resistance of the product will be improved. Selecting raw materials with greatly improved elastic modulus and elongation, loose stretched silk, fluffy fiber, good smoothness, soft hand feel, less static electricity, and good cohesion as raw materials in product production can ultimately affect the wrinkle resistance of the product by improving the elasticity and bending resistance of the raw materials. Raw silk consists of two parts: silk fibroin in the silk thread and sericin coated on the outside of the silk fibroin. Sericin can protect the silk fibroin from damage during processing and increase the strength of the silk thread. However, the distribution of sericin is not uniform and the elasticity is poor. , which will also increase the number of broken ends; therefore, it is necessary to soften the sericin by impregnation to make the silk soft and smooth, reduce the static electricity generated by friction, and improve the processing performance of raw silk; therefore, soaking raw silk is a necessary process before weaving, and the soaking quality directly affects the weaving efficiency and the performance and quality of the finished product; for this reason, new selection, design and optimization are made on soaking auxiliaries and related processes: Chuanhua TF-404A silk softener is selected, because the parameters that affect the impregnation effect mainly include time, temperature, bath ratio and concentration; it is mainly soaked in a manual cylinder with a bath ratio of 1:6. On this basis, orthogonal tests and single factor tests are carried out to determine the best soaking process;

[0028]

[0029] Table A Orthogonal experiment of various factors in soaking process

[0030] The orthogonal test results show that the amount of additives has the greatest impact on the coefficient of variation of breaking strength, followed by immersion time and immersion temperature. Through the orthogonal test, the initial process is obtained: the amount of additives is 5kg, the immersion time is 18h, and the immersion temperature is 45℃.

[0031] (2) Winding, doubling and twisting process: After the raw materials are soaked, they are dried at a set time and temperature, and the twisted factory silk is winded and doubling into the required thickness of the product. After doubling, the raw materials are subjected to a twisting machine for a strengthened twisting process; a new design is made on the twist to increase the cohesion between the silk threads, the elasticity and wrinkle resistance of the silk threads. The process is first debugged according to the set process. Under the condition of not exceeding the critical point, after multiple tests, the warp and weft threads are given a suitable high twist number and different twist directions on the left and right according to the different thickness of the raw materials, so that the twisted silk threads are elastic and can increase the wrinkle resistance of the fabric; twisting will affect the physical strength of the yarn The twisting of yarn increases the friction between fibers and reduces the unevenness of yarn strength, which increases the yarn strength. The twisting of yarn produces prestress in the fibers, reduces the axial component of fiber strength, and reduces the yarn strength. The combined effect of these two factors leads to the yarn strength increasing first and then decreasing with the increase of twist. In the design of new products, the fabric structure and the breaking strength and elongation of yarn are combined. In order to better reflect the machine washability, the warp twist is selected as 1500 twists / m and the weft twist is selected as 2400 twists / m.

[0032] Table 1 Warp twist test

[0033]

[0034] Table 2 Weft twist test

[0035]

[0036] The high-twisted raw materials are shaped by steam in a steamer, and then naturally cooled, rewound, and shaped in a moisture-reinforced chamber, so that the raw materials have a good twist effect, the differences and unevenness between fibers are reduced, and the quality of the silk is improved;

[0037] (3) Warp wefting: After the preparation of warp and weft is completed, warp weft begins to weave and weft is ready for weaving. Before wefting begins, the total number of warp wefts, weft width, warp twist arrangement, weft tension, and upper shaft tension are determined according to the designed process sheet. Since the twisted silk thread is in a twisted state, different twist combinations will cause the fabric to have different elastic shrinkage appearances. At the same time, tension is also a factor that affects the shrinkage rate of the fabric. Therefore, new adjustments should be made in terms of twist arrangement, upper weft tension, and upper shaft tension. Based on this, a variable but regular left-right twist arrangement is used in wefting to balance the elasticity of the fabric, reduce the weft tension, and increase the upper shaft tension to reduce the shrinkage rate of the fabric, so that the fabric product has a certain degree of shrinkage resistance. In conjunction with the warping machine, warp defects are minimized to the greatest extent, so that each yarn maintains a consistent tension.

[0038] (4) Weaving process: After warping, the product is woven on a 380cm wide loom. This equipment can make the effective width of the product reach 360cm. Since both the weave structure and the tension on the machine have a certain influence on the wrinkle resistance of the fabric, adjustments are made from these two aspects. A new design is made on the original old product structure, using a changed weave structure and reducing the tension parameters: the machine tension is selected as (22±2)cN, with appropriate warp and weft density: the weft density is 49 strands / cm, and the warp density is 103 strands / cm, so that the raw material structure is reasonably matched to produce the best fabric effect;

[0039] (5) Product pre-treatment:

[0040] Degumming and scouring: scouring in trough, synthetic detergent-alkali scouring, the specific process is as follows:

[0041] Table 3 Degumming and bleaching process parameters

[0042] soda ash 2g / L Sodium carbonate 1.5g / L Trisodium phosphate 1.5g / L Dispersant WA 4.5g / L Hydrocarbon 0.625g / L

[0043] Bath ratio 1:60, scouring (pH 9.5-10, 98-100°C, 60 min) → water washing (50-60°C, 10 min) → water washing (room temperature 10 min);

[0044] Steaming process: Steaming process is used in the pre-treatment process of grey silk. This process is used for the pre-treatment of machine washable silk, which is beneficial to improve the dimensional stability of the fabric. Finishing auxiliaries are added in the pre-treatment, and the steaming temperature is set to about 100°C and the time is set to 3 to 4 hours to achieve the ideal machine washable performance.

[0045] (6) Dyeing process: Weakly acidic dyes and neutral dyes are commonly used for printing and dyeing of mulberry silk fabrics. A small number of direct dyes are used. After dyeing, they are fixed to improve wet fastness. This not only makes the process complicated, but also darkens the color after fixing. In order to improve the brightness and fastness of mulberry silk fabrics, reactive dyes are used. Reactive dyes are used to dye mulberry silk fabrics, which have bright colors and good fastness. The fibers and dyes are bound by covalent bonds. Its dyeing methods can be divided into three types: acid bath method, neutral bath method and alkaline bath method. Since reactive dyes have the characteristics of complex dyeing process, difficulty in color correction, difficulty in color matching of large and small samples, and large bath ratio of rope-shaped and pull-cylinder dyeing machines, the difficulty of dyeing is increased. Therefore, according to the characteristics of silk, the research on the reactive dye dyeing process of silk is mainly carried out on the roller dyeing machine.

[0046] Process flow: fabric treatment → dyeing → pickling → soaping → washing → cold water rolling;

[0047] Process prescription and conditions:

[0048] Dyeing formula: dye 2% (owf), peregrine 0.3g / L, acetic acid 0.2g / L, bath ratio 1:15; soaping formula: detergent 2091g / L, Na2O30.7g / L;

[0049] Soap washing process: 80℃×l5min;

[0050] Dyeing starts at 30℃, first dyeing 4 times; then heat up to 100℃, add half diluted acetic acid solution in the 5th and 6th times respectively to promote dyeing, and can make the dye stained on the viscose fiber gradually transfer to the silk fiber; after adding acetic acid, dye one more time, cut a small sample for color matching in the last time; after dyeing, drain the dye, wash once with 100℃ water, and then thoroughly wash the stain on the viscose fiber, finally boil with soap for 4 times, wash once with hot water at 70℃ and 50℃, and roll with cold water; dyeing with reactive dye acid bath method generally produces darker color and brighter color, but the post-treatment soap boiling must be sufficient;

[0051] (7) Anti-wrinkle finishing process: The silk fabric is finished with an anti-wrinkle finishing agent prepared from β-cyclodextrin, chitosan, a cross-linking agent, a penetrant and acetic acid; wherein the cross-linking agent is an organic polycarboxylic acid or an amino silicone oil emulsion, and the penetrant is JFC or Percalool O, which imparts the silk fabric with multiple finishing functions such as anti-wrinkle, anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial, thereby further improving the performance of the silk fabric;

[0052] According to actual requirements, different process parameters were adjusted to conduct process research, and the best process for preparing wrinkle-resistant silk fabrics was found out. The results are shown in the table.

[0053] Table 4 Different anti-wrinkle finishing processes and parameters

[0054]

[0055]

[0056] The functional finishing agent configured in the above table was used to finish the silk fabric, with a bath ratio of 1:20. The silk fabric was immersed in the finishing solution at 30-90°C for 20 minutes, dehydrated, dried at 90°C, and hot-air baked at 150°C for 3 minutes to obtain the corresponding finished silk fabric, and the wrinkle recovery angle, UPF value and antibacterial properties of the silk fabric before and after finishing were tested;

[0057] Table 5 Wrinkle recovery angle of silk fabrics before and after anti-wrinkle finishing

[0058]

[0059] As shown in Table 5, samples 1-9 treated with the compound anti-wrinkle finishing agent all meet the anti-wrinkle requirements, among which the wrinkle recovery angle of sample 5 is 257°, ​​which is the best. Therefore, the processing effect of sample 5 is the best;

[0060] Table 6 UPF value of the preparation method of durable machine washable silk fabric

[0061] sample UPF value Blank 27 Sample 5 88

[0062] Table 7 Antibacterial rate of the preparation method of durable machine washable silk fabric

[0063]

[0064] According to the test results of wrinkle recovery angle, UPF value and antibacterial rate, when the proportion of finishing agent components is 10g / L β-cyclodextrin, 10g / L chitosan and 0.8g / L cross-linking agent, the penetrant is used to improve the penetration effect, and the dosage is generally 0.3g / L. Acetic acid is used to adjust the pH value of the solution, and the dosage is generally 0.2g / L. The pH value is preferably 3-8, neutral or acidic, and the bath ratio is 1:20. The silk fabric is immersed in the finishing solution at 60℃ for 20min, dehydrated, dried at 90℃, and hot air baked at 150℃ for 3min. The anti-wrinkle performance of the finished sample is the best, and it also has good anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial properties. Therefore, this process is selected as the functional finishing solution for silk fabrics.

[0065] The method for preparing the durable machine-washable silk fabric of the present invention adopts pure silk fiber in the warp and weft of the prepared product, starting from the design of the thickness, specification, width, elastic modulus of the raw material and fiber linear shape of the product, and then comprehensively researching and developing the twisting process, organizational structure, machine process and post-finishing, so that each process can increase the wrinkle resistance of the fabric, so as to achieve the best wrinkle resistance, shrinkage resistance and machine washability of the final product. The silk fabric is machine washed 50 times, and its appearance damage is significantly lighter than the effect of ordinary silk fabric being machine washed twice. The silk fabric is not easy to turn white, pilling or wrinkling, and still maintains good gloss and color.

[0066] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0067] The preparation method of the durable machine-washable silk fabric of the present invention adjusts the optimal twist through the doubling and re-twisting process, and uses a variable but regular twist arrangement and combination mode, with appropriate warp and weft density, and adopts a variable organizational structure, so that the fabric has good elasticity, wrinkle resistance, shrinkage resistance, machine washability and the like functions; and then uses a wrinkle-resistant finishing agent prepared by compounding β-cyclodextrin, chitosan, a cross-linking agent, a penetrant and acetic acid to post-finish the silk fabric, thereby giving the silk fabric multiple finishing functions of anti-ultraviolet, antibacterial and anti-wrinkle, and further improving the machine washability of the silk fabric.

[0068] Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and variations may be made to the embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the present invention, and that the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a durable machine-washable silk fabric, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) Soaking process: Select raw materials with greatly improved elastic modulus and elongation, loose stretched silk, fluffy fiber, good smoothness, soft hand feel, less static electricity, and good cohesion as raw materials for product production; soak again; select Chuanhua TF-404A silk softener, the bath ratio is 1-1.5:6, the amount of auxiliary agent is 5-8kg, the soaking time is 18-20h, and the soaking temperature is 45-60℃; (2) Winding, doubling and twisting process: After the raw materials are soaked, they are dried at a set time and temperature, and the stranded factory silk is winded and doubling into the required thickness of the product. After doubling, the raw materials are subjected to a strong twisting process using a twisting machine; the warp twist is selected to be 1200-1500 twists / m, and the weft twist is selected to be 2000-2400 twists / m; the raw materials with high twist are shaped by steam in a steamer, and then naturally cooled, rewound, and shaped in a rehumidification chamber, so that the raw materials have a good twist effect, and the differences and unevenness between fibers are reduced, thereby improving the quality of the silk; (3) Warp wefting: After the preparation of warp and weft is completed, the warp begins to weave and the weft is ready for weaving. The warp weft is twisted in a regular and variable way to balance the elasticity of the fabric. The weft weft tension is reduced and the upper axis tension is increased to reduce the shrinkage of the fabric and make the fabric product shrink-proof. The warp weft is used in conjunction with the warping machine to minimize warp defects and keep the tension of each yarn consistent. (4) Weaving process: After warping, the weaving is done on a loom with a tension of (22±2) cN and appropriate warp and weft densities: 45-49 threads / cm for weft and 100-103 threads / cm for warp, so that the raw materials are reasonably matched to produce the best fabric effect; (5) Product pre-treatment: Degumming and scouring: scouring in trough, synthetic detergent-alkali scouring, the specific process is as follows: First, use 1.5-2g / L of soda ash, 1-1.5g / L of sodium carbonate, 1.2-1.5g / L of trisodium phosphate, 4-4.5g / L of dispersant WA, and 0.55-0.625g / L of sodium hydrosulfite synthetic detergent; then use a bath ratio of 1-2:60, a pH value of 9.5-10, 98-100℃, 60-80min of scouring, then 50-60℃, 10-15min of water washing, and then 10-15min of water washing at room temperature; Steaming process: add finishing aids, set the steaming temperature to 100-120℃, and the time to 3-4h to achieve the ideal machine washability; (6) Dyeing process: Process flow: fabric treatment → dyeing → pickling → soaping → washing → cold water rolling; Process prescription and conditions: Dyeing formula: dye 1-2% (owf), perchlorate 0.2-0.3g / L, acetic acid 0.1-0.2g / L, bath ratio 1-2∶15; soaping formula: detergent 200-209 1g / L, Na2O3 0.7-1g / L; Soap washing process: 80-90℃× 15-20min; Dyeing starts at 30-40℃, first dyeing 4 times; then heat up to 90-100℃, add half diluted acetic acid solution in the 5th and 6th times respectively to promote dyeing, and make the dye stained on the viscose fiber gradually transfer to the silk fiber; after adding acetic acid, dyeing is continued for 1 time, and a small sample is cut for color matching in the last time; after dyeing, drain the dye solution, wash with 90-100℃ water for 1 time, and then fully wash the stain on the viscose fiber, finally boil with soap for 4 times, wash with 60-70℃ and 40-50℃ hot water for 1 time each, and roll up with cold water; Anti-wrinkle finishing process: use an anti-wrinkle finishing agent compounded with β-cyclodextrin, chitosan, a cross-linking agent, a penetrant and acetic acid to finish the silk fabric; the cross-linking agent is an organic polycarboxylic acid or an amino silicone oil emulsion, and the penetrant is JFC or Periga O; the bath ratio is 1-2:20, and the silk fabric is immersed in the finishing solution at 30-90°C for 20-30min. After dehydration, it is dried at 90-95°C and hot-air baked at 120-150°C for 3-5min to obtain the corresponding finished silk fabric.

2. The method for preparing a durable machine-washable silk fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The optimal wrinkle recovery angle of the prepared product is 257°.

3. The method for preparing a durable machine-washable silk fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: When the proportion of the finishing agent components in step (7) is 8-10 g / L of β-cyclodextrin, 8-10 g / L of chitosan, and 0.8-1 g / L of cross-linking agent, the penetrant is used to improve the penetration effect, and the dosage is generally 0.3-0.5 g / L. Acetic acid is used to adjust the pH value of the solution, and the dosage is generally 0.2-0.4 g / L. The pH value is preferably 3-8, neutral or acidic, and the bath ratio is 1-1.5:

20. The silk fabric is immersed in the finishing solution at 50-60°C for 20-30 minutes, dehydrated, dried at 80-90°C, and hot-air baked at 120-150°C for 3-5 minutes. The anti-wrinkle performance of the finished sample is the best, and it also has good anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial properties.

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