Composition containing jasmine extract and application thereof

Abstract

The present invention relates to extracts of leaves of jasmine comprising iridoid glycosides (comprising sambacoside A and at least two molhuades), to compositions comprising such extracts and to the use thereof. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising such an extract as an active ingredient for use in the skin and in the inhibition of hair growth.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to an extract of the leaves of Jasminum sambac containing at least iridoid glycosides of sambacoside A and molihuaside, a composition containing such an extract and its use. In addition, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing such an extract as an active ingredient for skin care and for inhibiting hair growth. Background Art

[0002] As the body's first line of defense, the skin barrier function prevents harmful substances from penetrating into the deeper living layers of the skin. It also prevents water loss from the skin. In addition, the skin harbours a microbiota composed of resident commensal, usually non-pathogen, and pathogenic microflora. The resident commensal microbiota is known to prevent pathogenic organisms from colonizing the skin surface by secreting chemicals themselves or by stimulating the skin immune system.

[0003] Skin dysbiosis has been associated with a variety of skin diseases, including atopic dermatitis, acne, rosacea, cellulitis, impetigo, deep impetigo, folliculitis, furuncle. For example, in atopic dermatitis, dysbiosis is due to the development of strains of Staphylococus aureus, while in acne vulgaris, dysbiosis is due to Propionibacterium acnes. The skin expresses a variety of antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), which are continuously expressed and induced in response to pathogenic microbial stimulation. These AMPs are differentially effective against a range of microbial skin colonizations, including both bacterial and fungal colonizers of the skin. Among these antimicrobial mechanisms against pathogens, defensins are peptides known for their antimicrobial activity. Defensins are key elements in the innate immune system of many organisms, the first line of defense against invasive pathogens. In fact, defensins have a wide range of antimicrobial activity against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeasts, and some enveloped viruses. For example, the skin can stimulate the release of human beta defensins-2 and 3 (hβD2 and hβD3) to enhance antimicrobial defense against pathogenic infection. Increased expression of hβD2 and hβD3 in keratinocytes in response to inoculation with live Staphylococcus aureus has been documented. The skin also expresses psoriasidin, known as S100A7, a well-known antimicrobial peptide, primarily on the face and head.

[0004] Therefore, controlling microbial colonization (such as S. aureus or P. acnes) is a major way to maintain skin commensality in healthy skin, or to restore skin commensality after it has been altered, or to restore skin health.

[0005] Unfortunately, the skin barrier function is susceptible to degradation under various deleterious conditions such as aging, genetic diseases (e.g., atopic dermatitis, xerosis), immune disorders, skin dysbiosis, environmental stresses such as UV rays, pollutants, etc.

[0006] Therefore, ensuring the maintenance of skin health typically involves the maintenance of the skin barrier function. In addition, the healthy state of the skin is mainly dependent on maintaining its microbial symbiosis and is characterized by good hydration maintenance. Skin hydration can be maintained by natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which comes from proteolysis of filaggrin by bleomycin hydrolase (BLMH), and the skin retains moisture due to relatively high hydrophilic molecules such as hyaluronic acid and proteoglycans.

[0007] Another biological mechanism that may be of interest for skin health is the autophagy process. Indeed, autophagy may be involved in epidermal renewal and differentiation processes.

[0008] Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a multifactorial chronic inflammatory skin disease, typically with clinical symptoms consisting of dry and itchy skin. AD is often mainly caused by a lack of filaggrin, colonization of Staphylococcus aureus and chronic inflammation due to innate immune deficiency and proliferation of Staphylococcus aureus. Defects in skin barrier function are typically established in the onset of the disease. In fact, altered skin barrier function may allow deep penetration of Staphylococcus aureus and tend to its colonization. In addition, lower levels of AMP are often associated with innate immune deficiency. In fact, increased expression of interleukin-1 (IL-1), interleukin-8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor-α is observed in atopic dermatitis skin.

[0009] Acne vulgaris typically involves the pilosebaceous unit and is characterized by comedones, papules, and is caused by inflamed and infected skin. Acne is typically a multifactorial skin disease: skin inflammation, Propionibacterium acnes, increased sebum production, hyperkeratosis, and poor skin barrier function. Propionibacterium acnes promotes inflammation by activating in immune cells and keratinocytes of the toll-like receptor pathway, which in turn induces the synthesis of proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-1, IL-6, IL-8, and TNF.

[0010] Topical retinoids and antibiotics are well known in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. However, these drugs have many disadvantages, primarily that antibiotics additionally exacerbate skin and gut microbiota dysbiosis and antibiotic resistance.

[0011] Furthermore, skin diseases such as pityriasis versicolor, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and dandruff are known to be caused by microorganisms such as Malassezia yeasts.

[0012] Hypertrophic scars and keloids, known as fibrotic skin diseases, represent a dysregulated response to skin trauma characterized by excessive scarring due to overproduction and deposition of collagen and extracellular matrix (ECM) molecules. Keloids are typically quite difficult to heal, are associated with itching and discomfort, affect the patient's physical function and appearance, and can cause psychological disturbances.

[0013] One of the major regulators involved in initiating the wound healing cascade is transforming growth factor β (TGF-β). In human dermal fibroblasts, TGF-β induces the activation of β-catenin and aberrant activation of Wnt / β-catenin signaling is often involved in keloid and hypertrophic pathological scars. TGF-β can stimulate the expression of connective tissue growth factor (CTGF), which can act as a downstream mediator of TGF-β, promoting fibroblast proliferation, ECM production, mainly collagen and granulation tissue formation. Because overexpression of CTGF in keloid and hypertrophic scars can enhance the profibrotic response to TGF-β, it is conceivable that blocking CTGF expression and Wnt signaling can reduce the fibroproliferative response of pathological scar formation by preventing connective tissue cell proliferation and matrix deposition. In addition, in another fibrotic disease, scleroderma, upregulation of intercellular adhesion molecule-1 (ICAM1) expression in dermal fibroblasts enables them to bind to mast cells, thus leading to a cascade of events that promote fibrosis.

[0014] Currently, there is no effective treatment for keloids or hypertrophic keloids.

[0015] Hair follicles undergo three cycles throughout life consisting of anagen, catagen, and telogen. Cyclic hair growth is dependent on epidermal stem cells that reside in the permanent, bulge region of the outer root sheath of the hair follicle.

[0016] Hair growth may be unwanted for certain cosmetic reasons. Various techniques exist to remove unwanted hair such as shaving, waxing, chemical depilatory creams and pulsed light. All of these techniques have disadvantages. Shaving causes rashes, shaving bumps, nicks, cuts and irritation to the skin. Waxing causes pain, discomfort and has limited removal for some short hairs. Depilatories affect the portion of hair above the skin surface and can cause irritation. Pulsed light allows removal of the portion below the skin and is therefore long lasting.

[0017] Dickkopf / Wnt signaling pathway inhibitor 1 is a human gene that encodes a secreted protein named Dickkopf 1 (DKK1), which is involved in embryonic development by inhibiting the Wnt signaling pathway. Therefore, if inhibition of hair growth may be of interest, it would be achieved by inhibiting the Wnt signaling pathway.

[0018] Jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Oleaceae, also known as Arabian Jasmine / jasmine, is native to the Middle East and Asia. Jasmine is characterized by a rather pleasant aroma and has been used in the perfume industry for thousands of years and as a fragrance in jasmine tea and aromatherapy. In fact, jasmine is a perennial plant, and farmers grow jasmine mainly for their flowers for the needs of the tea and perfume industries. In this regard, leaves are regularly pruned to promote flowering. Therefore, it produces a large amount of leaves that are typically disposed of and discarded.

[0019] The use of extracts of jasmine is known in the cosmetic art and typically focuses on the flowers.

[0020] For example, EP-B 2275113 describes a cosmetic formulation containing 3-methyloctan-4-lactone and the whole plant of jasmine, typically including an extract of the flower part, which is used to improve the blood circulation of the skin and increase the skin temperature. JP-A2008031089 relates to a plant extract comprising an extract of the whole plant of such jasmine, which is used for whitening the skin. JP-S6452709 discloses an extract of the whole plant of jasmine, which is used for moisturizing and for softening the skin. KR-B1-101762314 discloses a mixture of plant extracts comprising extracts of all parts of jasmine (preferably flowers), which is used for moisturizing the skin. However, these documents do not disclose an extract of a specific iridoid glycoside in an extract of jasmine or a specific cosmetic for the therapeutic use of an extract of jasmine.

[0021] The chemical composition of jasmine flower extracts including iridoid glycosides and their vasodilatory activity have been described (Yin et al., Hindawi Publishing Corp., Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2014: Article ID 707908). However, this is due to flower extracts and no specific cosmetics for therapeutic use in the skin are described.

[0022] The hydroethanolic extract of jasmine leaves is reported to contain sambacoside A and molihuaside A (El-Hawary et al., International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics, Vol. 11, No. 6, 154-164, 2019). The document does not indicate the presence of additional molihuaside or specific cosmetics for the therapeutic use of jasmine extracts.

[0023] The composition of the extract of jasmine is reported to contain sambacosides A, E and F, without teaching the specific extraction method used (Tanahashi T. et al., Tetrahedron Letters, Vol. 29, No. 15, pp. 1793-1796, 1988). The document does not indicate the specific cosmetics for the therapeutic use of the extract of jasmine. Methanol and ethanol extracts of jasmine leaves are generally reported (Sultana et al., European Journal of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol. 6, No. 5, 350-358, 2019). However, it is not taught whether these are prepared in a manner containing iridoid glycosides, such as specific molihuaside and / or sambacoside. (Yin et al., Hindawi Publishing Corp., Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2014: Article ID 707908). It is known that methanol leaf extracts of jasmine contain sambacoside A and molihuaside A to E (Zhang Ying-Jun et al., Phytochemistry, 38(4), 899-903, 1995). It is also reported that methanol extracts of jasmine leaves exhibit direct anti-Malassezia activity represented by inhibition zone diameter due to its tannin and sambacin components. The iridoid glycoside component is not mentioned. (Jacinta et al., Journal of mycology, Vol. 2014; P1-7; 2014). Tannins are not present in hydroethanolic leaf extracts of jasmine (Khan et al., Molecules, 26, 5664, 2021). Phytochemical studies on leaf extracts of jasmine showed the presence of only sambacosides A, E and F. There is no additional information on the presence of tannins and sambacin (Jain et al., “Jasminum species: an overview”, International Journal of Institutional: Pharmacy and life sciences, Vol. 1, 1, 251-266, 2011).

[0024] It is generally accepted that the concentration of active ingredients in plants (here jasmine) may vary according to the season. In addition, such concentrations also vary according to the organ of the plant. Therefore, it is of interest to have at hand an extract of jasmine that exhibits a stable amount of a specific iridoid glycoside content regardless of the season.

[0025] Therefore, there is still an unmet need for further jasmine extracts having specific components and being useful in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical fields, in particular in skin care, scalp care and hair care.

[0026] Surprisingly, it has been found that an extract of jasmine leaves comprising at least two sambacosides (including sambacoside A) and at least two molihuasides has unexpected beneficial properties in skin care, in particular for improving the skin's defense against microbial pathogens, for improving the skin's barrier function, for improving skin elasticity, for improving skin soothing and for preventing hair growth.

[0027] By using leaf extracts for this purpose, surprisingly the leaves that are typically disposed of in jasmine production can be used. This enables the valorization of by-products obtained from the jasmine plant to satisfy the cosmetic industry.

[0028] Indeed, it has been found that the jasmine leaf extract of the present invention can be characterized by having a specific biomarker content and can meet expectations in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical applications. Summary of the invention

[0029] The present invention relates to an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of the leaves of jasmine containing iridoid glycosides, the iridoid glycosides comprising:

[0030] (A) at least two sambacosides, including sambacoside A, and

[0031] (B) At least two molihuasides.

[0032] A further aspect relates to a method for preparing an extract according to the invention comprising the following steps:

[0033] i) crushing the leaves, optionally drying,

[0034] ii) solid / liquid extraction of the crushed leaves with at least one solvent selected from water, or a mixture of water and an alcohol, wherein the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, propanediol, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, preferably wherein the solvent is a mixture of ethanol / water, a mixture of glycerol / water or a mixture of propanediol / water in a ratio of 95:5 to 5:95, preferably 90:10 to 20:80, more preferably 70:30 to 50:50,

[0035] a) wherein the solid / liquid extraction is carried out at room temperature for 30 min to 10 hours, preferably 45 min to 8 hours, more preferably 1 h to 5 hours,

[0036] b) wherein the solid / liquid ratio is between 1:5 and 1:20, preferably between 1:7 and 1:15.

[0037] iii) separating the solid phase and the liquid phase to recover the liquid portion,

[0038] iv) optionally, concentrating the liquid fraction containing the solvent based extract by at least partially removing the extraction solvent.

[0039] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising:

[0040] - an extract of jasmine leaves according to the present invention as an active ingredient; and

[0041] - at least one additional cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically acceptable ingredient other than the extract of jasmine leaves,

[0042] wherein the composition is a composition for topical use selected from the group consisting of: solutions, suspensions, emulsions, creams, pastes, gels, lotions, powders, soaps, water containing surfactants, oils, shampoos and sprays; and / or wherein the composition is a nutraceutical composition for oral administration.

[0043] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition or cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to the invention in skin care.

[0044] The present invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising or consisting of an extract of the leaves of jasmine for skin care.

[0045] Another aspect of the present invention relates to the use of a composition or a cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to the present invention for inhibiting hair growth.

[0046] The invention furthermore relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising or consisting of an extract of the leaves of jasmine for hair care.

[0047] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a composition comprising or consisting of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of jasmine leaves (preferably the extract of the present invention), which is used as an active ingredient in a method for treating or preventing a skin disorder selected from the group consisting of atopic dermatitis, acne, dandruff, sebum secretion, oily skin, fibrotic disorders, scars, pathological skin redness, pathological skin inflammation, and a combination of two or more thereof.

[0048] In other words, the present invention further relates to a composition comprising or consisting of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of leaves of jasmine, preferably an extract of the present invention, as an active ingredient for use in non-therapeutic methods for managing skin susceptible to atopic dermatitis and skin susceptible to acne (acne-prone skin), for treating and / or limiting fibrotic disorders, for treating and / or limiting scars, for treating and / or preventing skin redness and skin inflammation, or two or more thereof. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0049] Figure 1 Shown is a UV-chromatogram of a leaf extract of Jasminum sambac scanned at 236 nm according to the present invention.

[0050] Figure 2 Shown is the evaluation of the Lucifer Yellow channel in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) treated or not with the extract according to the invention and infected or not with Malassezia furfur after 6 hours of contact with the top of the RHE. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0051] One aspect of the present invention relates to an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of leaves of jasmine comprising iridoid glycosides comprising:

[0052] (A) at least two sambacosides, including sambacoside A, and

[0053] (B) At least two molihuasides.

[0054] The iridoid glycosides used in the context of the present invention, including sambacoside and molihuaside, can be understood in the broadest sense as understood in the art. The term "iridoid compound" as used herein can be understood in the broadest sense as commonly understood in the art. Preferably, it can include any iridoid-based component (including iridoid glycosides).

[0055] Examples of such iridoid glycosides are mentioned in El-Hawary et al. (International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics, Vol. 11, No. 6, 154-164, 2019) and Tanahashi T. et al. (Tetrahedron Letters, Vol. 29, No. 15, pp. 1793-1796, 1988). Further examples and sambacosides such as sambacoside A to G and molihuasides such as molihuaside A to E are known in the art. The core structure (also referred to as: basic skeleton) of the iridoid glycosides used in the context of the present invention can generally be as follows:

[0056]

[0057] It will be appreciated that such a structure may be optionally substituted on any carbon atom accessible thereto. In other words, the hydrogen atoms at carbon atoms 1, 3 and 5-10 may be optionally substituted or unsubstituted by organic or inorganic residues. Glc may be a sugar. Preferably, carbon atom 10 forms an ester group, particularly methyl ester-CO-O-CH3.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the iridoid glycoside content is at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the dry matter content of the extract. Preferably, the iridoid glycoside content may be between 5 and 30% by weight, more preferably between 7 and 28% by weight, in particular between 8 and 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the dry matter content of the extract.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the extract additionally comprises at least two sambacosides selected from sambacoside E or F, or a mixture thereof; and a molihuaside selected from molihuaside A, B, C, D, E, or a mixture of two or more thereof.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, the sambacoside may be a mixture of sambacoside A, E and F, and wherein the molihuaside may be a mixture of molihuaside A to E. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the extract comprises sambacoside A, E and F, and the molihuaside is molihuaside A to E.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, sambacoside A may account for 30 to 70%, preferably 35 to 65%, even more preferably 40 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the total iridoid glycosides.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the extract comprises 1 to 70 wt. %, preferably 10 to 60 wt. % molihuaside, based on the total weight of the dry matter content of the extract.

[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, the total iridoid glycoside content may be at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the dry matter content of the extract.

[0064] The total iridoid content in the jasmine leaf extract according to the invention, expressed as oleuropein equivalent, may be equivalent to 1000 to 3000 ppm, preferably 1500 to 2500 ppm, more preferably 1800 to 2200 ppm. Advantageously, the jasmine leaf extract according to the invention may contain less than 0.001% by weight, preferably less than 0.0001% by weight, of tannins and sambacins, based on the total weight of the dry matter content of the extract. In particular, the jasmine leaf extract according to the invention may contain neither tannins nor sambacins.

[0065] Jasmine leaves contain a large number of active molecules, among which are polyphenols and iridoid glycosides. Iridoid compounds are a type of monoterpenes found in a variety of plants. Iridoid glycosides, also known as oligomeric iridodialglycosides, namely sambacoside and molihuaside, have been reported to be present in jasmine leaves.

[0066] The term "extract" as used herein may be any substance made by extracting the leaves of jasmine. According to the present disclosure, the extract of jasmine may be a solvent-based extract obtained by means of a solid / liquid extraction process, commonly referred to as an infusion or leaching solution. As used herein, the extraction may be achieved by using at least one solvent, preferably a polar solvent. In one embodiment, the extract may be obtained from water, alcohol or hydroalcoholic extraction methods, including cold or hot extraction, ultrasonic extraction, reflux cooling and microwave extraction, which may be performed later by using water as the extraction solvent.

[0067] As used throughout this disclosure, the term "extract" means an extract of jasmine leaves.

[0068] Therefore, the extract can be obtained (or obtained) by solid / liquid extraction of jasmine leaves in a solvent selected from water or a mixture of water and an alcohol, wherein the alcohol is methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol, preferably ethanol / water, glycerol / water or propanediol / water.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the extract is obtainable by solid / liquid extraction of jasmine leaves in a solvent selected from water or a mixture of water and an alcohol, wherein the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, propanediol, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and a combination of two or more thereof, preferably wherein the solvent is a mixture of ethanol / water, glycerol / water or a mixture of propanediol / water.

[0070] As used herein, the term "hydroalcohol" may be understood in the broadest sense as generally understood in the art. It may be any composition comprising one or more alcohols and water. The hydroalcoholic extraction solvent may be any alcohol / water mixture. Preferably, the hydroalcoholic extraction solvent may be ethanol / water, glycerol / water or propanediol / water. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the extract of the present invention is obtained by extracting the leaves of jasmine with ethanol / water, glycerol / water or propanediol / water.

[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the leaf extract according to the invention may be a hydroalcoholic extract, wherein the water / alcohol ratio is 5:95 (v / v), preferably 10:90 (v / v), more preferably 20 / 80 (v / v), in particular 30:70 (v / v).

[0072] In one embodiment, the dry matter content of the extract is 5 g / L to 15 g / L, preferably 7 g / L to 13 g / L, more preferably 8.5 g / L to 12 g / L (weight / volume of solvent), based on the total weight of the extract, respectively 0.5% to 1.5%, preferably 0.7% to 1.3%, more preferably 0.85% to 1.2% by weight.

[0073] Under standard conditions (room temperature of about 20° C., atmospheric pressure of about 1013 hPa), the extract according to the present invention can be liquid, pasty or solid. In this context, the terms "liquid" and "fluid" can be understood interchangeably. Preferably, the extract is first obtained in liquid form. Then, one or more solvents can be optionally removed to obtain a solid form of the extract. The liquid extract (i.e., a solvent-based extract) can also be concentrated, for example under reduced pressure. In addition, after concentration, the extract can be dried. Then, preferably, part of the one or more solvents is removed. Optionally, a liquid or pasty extract can be obtained. Optionally, the extract can also be re-diluted with one or more solvents to obtain a solvent-based extract. Optionally, the extract can also be purified by any means (e.g., crystallization, chromatography, etc.).

[0074] The extract may optionally be referred to as a "tincture" or "absolute". The solvent used to prepare the solvent-based extract may be an aqueous solvent (water or buffer), or it may be a combination of an aqueous solvent and a liquid organic solvent. Therefore, the extract of the leaves of jasmine according to the present invention is a solvent-based extract, wherein the diluting solvent may be selected from water, an aqueous buffer, an alcohol, a glycol or a mixture thereof. The alcohol may preferably be selected from methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol or a mixture of two or more thereof.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the extract of jasmine leaves according to the present invention may be a water-based extract.

[0076] In another preferred embodiment, the extract of jasmine leaves according to the present invention can be obtained by extraction with a mixture of glycerol / water in a volume ratio of 95 / 5 to 5 / 95, preferably 90 / 10 to 70 / 30 or 80 / 20 to 20 / 80.

[0077] In another preferred embodiment, the extract of jasmine leaves according to the present invention can be obtained by extraction with a mixture of ethanol / water or propanediol / water in a volume ratio of 95 / 5 to 5 / 95, preferably 40 / 60 to 60 / 40 or 70 / 30 to 50 / 50.

[0078] Advantageously, when used as a carrier solvent for jasmine extracts, mixtures of glycerol / water and propanediol / water can stabilize the product against alteration by microbial growth, making additional preservatives unnecessary.

[0079] The extract of jasmine leaves may optionally be obtained as fractions produced by implementing other known purification methods including separation through an ultrafiltration membrane having a constant molecular weight cutoff, or separation by various chromatography methods, or liquid-liquid separation or crystallization or precipitation.

[0080] As used herein, the term "dry matter" may be understood in the broadest sense as the extract according to the invention in the form of dry matter, ie without solvent. In the calculation, the mass of the solvent is mathematically subtracted from the total mass.

[0081] Dry matter (in physical form) can be obtained by a suitable extraction method followed by a step of drying the extract obtained. Drying can be carried out by any method known in the art suitable for this purpose. Drying means removing one or more solvents used for extraction.

[0082] The method for preparing the extract according to the present invention comprises the following steps:

[0083] i) crushing the leaves, optionally drying,

[0084] ii) solid / liquid extraction of the crushed leaves with at least one solvent selected from water, or a mixture of water and an alcohol, wherein the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, propanediol, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, preferably a mixture of ethanol / water, a mixture of glycerol / water or a mixture of propanediol / water in a ratio of 95:5 to 5:95, preferably 90:10 to 20:80, more preferably 70:30 to 50:50,

[0085] a) wherein the solid / liquid extraction is carried out at room temperature for 30 min to 10 hours, preferably 45 min to 8 hours, more preferably 1 h to 5 hours,

[0086] b) wherein the solid / liquid ratio is between 1:5 and 1:20, preferably between 1:7 and 1:15.

[0087] iii) separating the solid phase and the liquid phase to recover the liquid portion,

[0088] iv) optionally, concentrating the liquid fraction containing the solvent based extract by at least partially removing the extraction solvent.

[0089] It will be appreciated that the extract obtained after the solid / liquid extraction in step ii) may exhibit the biological activities as listed in the experimental part of the present application.

[0090] It will be understood that the definitions and preferred embodiments set out above in the context of the extract apply mutatis mutandis to the method of the invention, and vice versa.

[0091] Optionally, the method may comprise step ii') of repeating step ii). For example, such repetition may be 1 to 3 times, thus 1, 2 or 3 times.

[0092] In one embodiment, the solid / liquid extraction can be carried out at 15 to 120°C, preferably at 15 to 110°C, even more preferably at 18 to 100°C, and especially at 20 to 100°C for 30 minutes to 72 hours, preferably 45 minutes to 60 hours, more preferably 1 hour to 55 hours, and most preferably 2 to 48 hours.

[0093] In one embodiment, separation of the solid phase and the liquid phase to recover the liquid portion can be performed by any means known in the art, such as centrifugation, decantation or filtration.

[0094] In one embodiment, after concentration, the solvent-based extract may be additionally dried by any means known in the art, such as spray drying.

[0095] In one embodiment, the concentrated extract can be further redissolved in a suitable cosmetic solvent selected from the group consisting of a mixture of polyols, glycols, esters and water and one thereof. For example, a suitable cosmetic solvent can be glycerol, propanediol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, ethyl acetate.

[0096] The ratio of plant material to extraction solvent may be between 1 / 5 and 1 / 50 by weight, preferably between 1 / 10 and 1 / 20.

[0097] In the context of the present invention, the extract is preferably dried, or frozen or freeze-dried, or fresh.The plant material may be used in any form, for example as powder, crushed or in any other form.

[0098] The extract according to the invention may be obtained from commercial suppliers or may be prepared from the leaves of jasmine as described above.

[0099] The aqueous alcohol solvent can be a solvent mixture mainly composed of one or more alcohols and water.Preferably, the aqueous alcohol solvent can contain the alcohol between 1 and 99% (v / v), or the alcohol between 5 to 95% (v / v), or the alcohol between 10 and 90% (v / v), or the alcohol between 15 and 85% (v / v), or the alcohol between 20 and 80% (v / v), or between 25 and 75%, or the alcohol between 30% and 70% (v / v), or the alcohol between 40% and 60% (v / v), or the alcohol of about 50% (v / v).As used herein, water can also include hot water or subcritical water.And, one or more aqueous buffers can be used.

[0100] Therefore, one aspect of the present invention refers to an extract of jasmine leaves obtainable (or obtained) by implementing the preparation method as described above.

[0101] Furthermore, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising or consisting of an extract of the leaves of jasmine or a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract in skin care.

[0102] One aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition or cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to the invention in skin care. Preferably, such use is a cosmetic use (preferably a non-therapeutic use), but may also be a therapeutic use.

[0103] It will be understood that the definitions and preferred embodiments set out in the context of the extracts and methods above apply mutatis mutandis to the use of such materials.

[0104] In other words, the present invention relates to an extract or a cosmetic composition according to the invention for use in a method for skin care.

[0105] As used herein, the term "skin care" may be understood in the broadest sense. Preferably, it may include improving the skin's defense against microbial pathogens, for preventing skin dysbiosis, for maintaining or restoring skin symbiosis, for improving and / or restoring skin barrier function, for preventing the formation of stretch marks, for preventing and / or regulating sebum secretion, for preventing the oily appearance of hair and / or skin, or for two or more thereof.

[0106] In a preferred embodiment, the extract of the present invention or a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract may be used as an anti-dandruff agent.

[0107] In a preferred embodiment, the skin care is for managing skin susceptible to atopic dermatitis, for preventing acne, for limiting fibrotic disorders, for limiting scarring, for preventing inflammation and / or redness, or a combination of two or more thereof.

[0108] In a preferred embodiment, the skin care treatment is for preventing or reducing skin irritation.

[0109] Advantageously, the extract of the invention or the cosmetic composition comprising such an extract may be used as an antioxidant.

[0110] Advantageously, the extract of the present invention or the cosmetic composition comprising such an extract may be used as a whitening agent.

[0111] In other words, the present invention relates to an extract or a cosmetic composition according to the present invention for use in a method for preventing or reducing skin irritation.

[0112] In a preferred embodiment, the skin care is the prevention or reduction of skin irritation and comprises at least one of: reducing skin inflammation and / or soothing the skin; stimulating the skin's intrinsic antimicrobial defense mechanisms.

[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the skin care comprises the following effects: improving and / or restoring the skin barrier function and / or skin hydration, improving skin elasticity, stimulating the skin's intrinsic antimicrobial defense mechanisms, preventing skin dysbiosis, maintaining or restoring skin symbiosis, reducing skin inflammation and / or soothing the skin, reducing fibrosis, in particular when associated with the formation of scars, preventing the formation of stretch marks, for preventing and / or regulating sebum secretion, for preventing an oily appearance of the skin, or a combination of two or more thereof.

[0114] In a preferred embodiment, the skin care is a skin care for reducing the number and / or intensity of red skin lesions.

[0115] In one embodiment, the skin care may additionally be used to prevent acne vulgaris, to improve or restore skin condition, or a combination thereof.

[0116] In one embodiment, the skin care may additionally be used to improve skin hydration, to improve skin comfort, to improve and / or restore skin elasticity, to prevent the formation of stretch marks, to improve and / or restore skin soothing, or for two or more thereof.

[0117] A further aspect relates to the use of a composition or cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to the invention for inhibiting hair growth. Preferably, such use is a cosmetic use (preferably a non-therapeutic use), but may also be a therapeutic use.

[0118] In other words, the present invention relates to an extract or a cosmetic composition according to the present invention for use in a method for inhibiting hair growth for preventing the oily appearance of the hair.

[0119] It will be understood that the definitions and preferred embodiments made in the context of the use of an extract of jasmine leaves of the present invention apply mutatis mutandis to compositions comprising such an extract.

[0120] The invention further relates to a composition comprising or consisting of an extract of the leaves of jasmine as an active ingredient for use in non-therapeutic methods for managing skin susceptible to atopic dermatitis and skin susceptible to acne, for treating and / or limiting fibrotic disorders or conditions, for treating and / or limiting scarring, for treating and / or preventing skin redness and skin inflammation, or for two or more thereof.

[0121] As used herein, the term "manage" may be understood in the broadest sense to mean limiting, reducing the risk of developing skin susceptible to atopic dermatitis and / or acne, and ameliorating atopic dermatitis and acne skin phenotypes (acne).

[0122] As used herein, "skin susceptible to atopic dermatitis" and "atopic dermatitis-prone skin" are skin types that have a tendency to develop inflammatory and pruritic skin lesions. It does not refer to skin that has a skin disease, but may cause atopic dermatitis when untreated.

[0123] As used herein, "acne-prone skin" and "acne-prone skin" can be understood in the broadest sense as a skin type that has a tendency to develop acne and inflammatory lesions. Acne-prone skin does not refer to skin that has a skin disease, but may cause acne vulgaris when untreated.

[0124] Both atopic dermatitis and acne lesions preferably refer to inflammation and inflammatory lesions, preferably associated with atopic dermatitis (redness) and acne vulgaris (redness, comedones, pustules and papules).

[0125] Since there is no currently effective treatment for keloids or hypertrophic scars, the extracts of the present invention are able to modulate connective tissue abnormalities to their inflammatory source, improving the itching and discomfort of the skin often reported in these diseases by reducing skin pain and by improving skin elasticity. In this regard, experimental results show that the extracts according to the present invention are able to reduce the expression of CTGF and reduce the associated collagen synthesis. Since CTGF plays a central role in the development and maintenance of fibrotic reactions, the extracts according to the present invention represent a potential strategy for the treatment of keloids and other fibrotic disorders or conditions. In addition, the extracts according to the present invention are able to induce the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3, leading to a reduction in the protein level of collagen, thereby reversing the pro-fibrotic phenotype of fibrotic fibroblasts found in keloids, hypertrophic scars and scleroderma.

[0126] As used in the context of the present invention, the terms "subject" and "individual" may be understood in the broadest sense as any organism. The subject is preferably a human or (non-human) animal, more preferably a human or (non-human) mammal, in particular a human. In the context of treatment and prevention, the subject may also be referred to as a "patient".

[0127] Advantageously, the subject is suffering or will suffer, for example through surgery, a wound that may lead to scarring (such as keloids and hypertrophic scars and / or fibrotic disorders or conditions) or has led to scarring (such as keloids and hypertrophic scars and / or fibrotic disorders or conditions).

[0128] As used herein, the term "wound" may be understood in the broadest sense as damage to the skin and subcutaneous tissue. Such wounds may include lacerations, burns, punctures, wounds, bites, fistulas, ulcers, lesions caused by infection, surgical wounds, incisional wounds, post-burn contractures, and wounds resulting from cosmetic surgery.

[0129] As used herein, the term "keloid" may be understood in the broadest sense as a scar that results in excessive tissue growth at the site of a healing skin injury. Keloids are often associated with severe itching, pain, and changes in texture. In severe cases, it can affect the movement of the skin.

[0130] As used herein, "reducing scarring" and "managing scarring" may be understood in the broadest sense. Preferably, it may be understood as any reduction or modulation in keloid or hypertrophic scarring that provides a therapeutic or cosmetic benefit, for example by reducing the size and / or depth of a keloid or hypertrophic scar relative to an existing keloid or hypertrophic scar, or by reducing the size of an existing keloid or hypertrophic scar in a subject.

[0131] In one embodiment, the fibrotic disorders or conditions may be those associated with TGF-[beta] induction of CTGF expression, including but not limited to tissue fibrosis.

[0132] In one embodiment, the fibrotic disorder or condition and / or scar may be a keloid and hypertrophic scars are those having elevated levels of one or more of the following biomarkers: CTGF expression, collagen type I (COL1A1), fibrillin-5 (FBLN5), fibromodulin (FMOD).

[0133] As used herein, the terms "treat," "treat," and "manage" may be understood in the broadest sense as a means of achieving one or more of the following: (a) lessening the severity of a disorder or condition; (b) limiting or preventing the development of symptoms characteristic of the disorder or condition being treated; (c) inhibiting the worsening of symptoms characteristic of the disorder or condition being treated; (d) limiting or preventing the recurrence of the disorder or condition in a patient who previously had the disorder or condition; (e) limiting or preventing the recurrence of symptoms in a subject who previously had symptoms of (one or more) the disorder or condition.

[0134] As used herein, the terms "limit" and "reduce" may be understood in the broadest sense as a means of limiting a disorder or condition in a subject at risk of developing the disorder or condition.

[0135] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising:

[0136] - an extract of jasmine leaves (preferably according to the invention) as active ingredient, and

[0137] - at least a cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically acceptable ingredient other than an extract of jasmine,

[0138] wherein the composition is a composition for topical use selected from the group consisting of: a solution, a suspension, an emulsion, a cream, a paste, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a powder, a soap, water containing a surfactant, an oil, a shampoo and a spray, or

[0139] wherein the composition is a nutraceutical composition for oral administration.

[0140] It will be understood that the definitions and preferred embodiments set out in the context of the extracts, methods and uses above apply mutatis mutandis to the pharmaceutical compositions, and vice versa.

[0141] In this context, the extract according to the invention may optionally be considered as (or optionally even as the only) active ingredient. As used herein, the term "active ingredient" may be understood in the broadest sense as a component that can exhibit the desired and expected activity alone or together with one or more other ingredients (such as one or more carriers that are inactive per se or another active ingredient that may optionally act synergistically).

[0142] The cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition may be used for any purpose and in any form. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a composition for topical use selected from the group consisting of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, creams, pastes, gels, lotions, serums, powders, soaps, water containing surfactants, oils, shampoos and sprays, or wherein the composition is a nutraceutical composition for oral administration.

[0143] The composition may also be or may be contained in a product selected from the group consisting of a cream, a gel, an ointment, a tonic, a liquid soap, a bar soap, a bath oil, a shower oil, a massage oil, a beauty makeup, a scalp care, an aftershave, a shaving product, a deodorant, a body wash, a shampoo, and a combination of two or more thereof.

[0144] Optionally, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition can also be a nutraceutical composition that can be orally administered to a subject. Then, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition can be optionally included in food, such as a food supplement. Then, the composition can typically have a systemic effect. According to the nutraceutical composition of the present invention, it can be formulated into any form suitable for oral administration with an acceptable carrier, such as tablets, capsules, granules, powders, solutions, emulsions or suspensions.

[0145] The cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition may contain the extract according to the present invention in any amount. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 15% by weight of the extract according to the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises 0.0001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 8% by weight, even more preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight of the extract according to the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0146] At least one other cosmetic and / or pharmaceutically acceptable ingredient different from the extract of the present invention can be any cosmetic and / or pharmaceutically acceptable ingredient. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutically acceptable ingredient is or comprises at least one cosmetic and / or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.

[0147] As used herein, the terms "pharmaceutically acceptable carrier", "pharmaceutically acceptable excipient", "cosmetically acceptable carrier", "cosmetically acceptable excipient", "carrier" and "excipient" may be understood interchangeably in the broadest sense as any substance that may support the cosmetic and / or pharmacological acceptability or usability of the composition according to the invention containing an extract of jasminum sambac. Preferably, both the extract of jasminum sambac and the composition according to the invention containing at least one such extract are non-toxic when applied to tissue.

[0148] The ready-to-use composition may preferably be a liquid preparation, in particular a composition suitable for topical and oral administration. The storage form of the composition may also be a liquid (i.e. a solvent-based extract), but may also be a dry form (e.g. a powder, such as a powder comprising or consisting of an extract of jasmine) or may be a paste or syrup, etc. Optionally, the dry form, paste or syrup may be dissolved or emulsified before application to the skin of interest.

[0149] The cosmetic and / or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier can be exemplarily selected from the list consisting of: aqueous buffer solution, saline, water, alcohol, vegetable oil, mineral oil, polymer or a combination of two or more thereof. Optionally, the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier can contain one or more cosmetic and / or pharmaceutically acceptable additives.

[0150] In a preferred embodiment, such cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically acceptable additives may be selected from the group consisting of flavors / perfumes, dyes, pigments, emulsifiers, lubricants, chelating agents, acidity regulators, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, and combinations of two or more thereof.

[0151] Furthermore, the composition of the present invention may contain one or more other active ingredients in addition to the jasmine extract.

[0152] The composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic, or can be included in a cosmetic. The composition can be used for any purpose. Any route of administration is suitable, resulting in the desired purpose required. Administration can be topical or systemic. Administration can be topical, transdermal, oral, by injection.

[0153] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a composition for topical use. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a composition for topical use for topical administration to a subject. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a composition for topical use for topical administration to a portion of the skin, such as the face, scalp, or any part of the body.

[0154] The present invention may also be used in vitro, ex vivo or in vivo to: reduce inflammation; stimulate intrinsic antimicrobial defense mechanisms; reduce fibrosis; inhibit hair growth; improve skin barrier function; soothe the skin; skin hydration; and / or skin elasticity.

[0155] The present invention may also be used in in vitro cell culture or tissue models to: reduce inflammation; stimulate intrinsic antimicrobial defense mechanisms; and / or reduce fibrosis.

[0156] The present invention can also be used in vitro, ex vivo or in vivo, in particular in vitro cell culture or tissue models, to: increase the expression of one or more polypeptides associated with antimicrobial defense mechanisms, such as human β-defensins (e.g., human β-defensin 1, human β-defensin 2 and human β-defensin 3) and / or psoriatic acid S100A7, Cathelicidin antimicrobial peptide (CAMP), RNase7; reduce the expression of one or more polypeptides associated with inflammatory processes, such as interleukin-1 (IL-1), interleukin-17 (IL-17), tumor necrosis factor (TNF), bleomycin hydrolase (BLMH) and / or cholesterol 25 hydrolase (CH25H); increase the expression of one or more polypeptides associated with skin barrier function, such as corneodesmosin (CDSN), keratin 1 (KRT1), loricrin (LOR), transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 4 (TRPV4) and / or sphingomyelin phosphodiesterase (SPPS). esterase (SMPD1); increase the expression of one or more polypeptides related to hydration properties, such as GPAT3 or glycerol-3-phosphate acyltransferase 3 (AGPAT9), bleomycin hydrolase (BLMH), histidine ammonia lyase (HAL), xylosyltransferase 1 (XYLT1) and / or chondroitin sulfate proteoglycan (CSPG4); increase the expression of one or more matrix metalloproteinases (such as matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) and / or matrix metalloproteinase 3 (MMP-3)); increase the expression of elastin (ELN); reduce the expression of one or more polypeptides related to fiber and / or connective tissue, such as collagen 1a1 (COL1A1), connective tissue growth factor (CTGF), fibrin-5 (FBLN5) and / or intracellular adhesion molecule 1 (ICAM1); reduce the expression of caspase 9 (CASP9); reduce the expression of heparin-binding EGF-like growth factor (HBEGF); reduce the transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V mb1 (TRPV1); and / or increase the expression of DickkopfWnt signaling pathway inhibitor 1 (DKK1).

[0157] As mentioned above, the extract or composition of jasmine of the present invention can be used for any purpose. Preferably, it is used for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical purposes.

[0158] On the other hand, it relates to a composition comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of jasmine leaves, preferably an extract according to the present invention, or consisting of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of jasmine leaves, preferably an extract according to the present invention, as an active ingredient for use in a method for treating or preventing skin disorders selected from the group consisting of atopic dermatitis, acne, fibrotic disorders, scars, pathological skin redness, pathological skin inflammation, dandruff and a combination of two or more thereof.

[0159] It will be understood that the definitions and preferred embodiments set out in the context of the extracts, methods, uses and pharmaceutical compositions above apply mutatis mutandis to the pharmaceutical compositions, and vice versa.

[0160] In other words, the present invention also relates to a method for treating or preventing a skin disorder selected from the group consisting of atopic dermatitis, acne, fibrotic disorders, scars, pathological skin redness, pathological skin inflammation, and a combination of two or more thereof, the method comprising administering to a subject in need thereof a sufficient amount of a composition comprising or consisting of an extract of jasmine leaves, preferably an extract according to the present invention, as an active ingredient.

[0161] In terms of treatment, atopic dermatitis may be classified, for example, as L20 in the International Statistical Classification of Diseases and Related Health Problems, 10th revision (ICD-10).

[0162] In terms of treatment, atopic dermatitis can be classified as L70 in ICD-10.

[0163] In terms of treatment, scarring and fibrosis may be classified, for example, as L90.5 in ICD-10.

[0164] In terms of treatment, pathological skin redness may be erythema, as classified as L51-L54 in ICD-10.

[0165] The extract of the invention or a composition comprising such an extract may have a local and / or systemic effect. In a preferred embodiment, when applied locally / topically, it has (primarily or entirely) a local effect.

[0166] As used herein, the term "disorder" or "condition" may be understood in the broadest sense as any pathological condition. In terms of therapy, it may also be referred to as a disease. It may preferably be an intrinsic disease. As used herein, the term "lesion" may be understood in the broadest sense as any disturbance or dysfunction in a tissue, in particular in (otherwise) healthy tissue. A skin disorder is a disorder of the skin.

[0167] Throughout this specification and claims, unless the context requires otherwise, open-ended terms such as "comprises", "contains", "include", "comprising", "containing", "including", etc. and variations such as "comprises", "contains", "include", "comprising", "containing", "including", etc., will be understood to imply the inclusion of stated components, members, integers or steps, or groups of components, members, integers or steps, but not the exclusion of any other components.

[0168] The terms "a / an" and "the" and similar references used in the context of describing the present invention (particularly in the context of the claims) are interpreted as covering both the singular and the plural, unless otherwise specified herein or clearly contradictory to the context. The recording of the range of values ​​herein is intended only to serve as a shorthand method for referring to each individual value falling within the range individually. Unless otherwise specified herein, each individual value is incorporated into the specification as if it were recorded individually in combination with each other herein. Unless otherwise specified herein or clearly contradictory to the context, all methods and process steps, including the products defined by the method steps described herein, can be performed in any suitable order. The use of any and all examples or exemplary language (e.g., "such as", "for example") provided herein is intended only to better illustrate the present invention and does not limit the scope of the present invention claimed in other ways. Any language in the specification should not be interpreted as indicating that any unclaimed element is essential to the practice of the present invention.

[0169] More generally, it will be understood that the aspects and embodiments may be combined in any manner and in any number into further embodiments. Unless the context indicates otherwise, any arrangement and combination of all elements described in this application should be deemed to be disclosed by the description of this application.

[0170] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art. Although the methods and materials described herein are preferred, other methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can also be used in the practice or testing of the present invention.

[0171] All documents cited or referenced herein are hereby incorporated by reference and may be used in the practice of the present invention. More specifically, all referenced documents are incorporated by reference to the same extent as if each individual document was specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference.

[0172] The following examples and figures are intended to illustrate further embodiments of the invention without limiting the scope thereof.

[0173] Example

[0174] 1. Preparation of Jasmine Leaf Extract by Glycerol / Water Extraction

[0175] Jasmine leaves were collected, washed, dried and crushed to a particle size of less than 1 mm. Then, 9.5 g of the powder was immersed in 0.095 L of a mixture of 80 / 20 (v / v) glycerol / water. Solid / liquid extraction was performed with glycerol / water at room temperature (about 20° C.) for 1 hour. The obtained liquid was filtered on filter paper (Advantec, No. 2).

[0176] Figure 1 Shown is a UV chromatogram at 236 nm associated with the jasmine leaf extract according to the preparation method described above.

[0177] Materials and methods

[0178] The samples were analyzed by a Waters Acquity UPLC chromatography system coupled to a Waters XevoG2 Q-Tof instrument with an electrospray ionization system. Chromatographic separation was performed on a column (Phenomenex Kinetex EVOC18: 2.1 mm x 150 mm, 1.7 μm) with a temperature maintained at 40°C. A mobile phase system comprising acetonitrile (A) with 0.1% formic acid and water (B) with 0.1% formic acid was performed by gradient elution as follows: 2% (B) from 0-2 min, 2-10% (B) from 2-2.10 min, 10-28% (B) from 2.10-19 min, 28-100% (B) from 19-19.5 min, 100% (B) from 19.5-21.5, 2% (B) at 21.6 min until 23 min. 5 μL of sample was injected for analysis. UV spectra were recorded at 236 nm. The flow rate was set at 0.5 mL / min. ESI-MS spectra were collected in both negative and positive ion modes, and the mass range was set from m / z 150 to 1500. The sample cone voltage was set at 30 V. In MS / MS analysis, the collision energy for dissociation was set at 15, 25, and 35 eV.

[0179] like Figure 1As shown, the analysis confirmed the presence of sambacoside A, E, F, numbered 19, 18, 20, respectively, and molihuaside A, B, C, D, E, numbered 14, 17, 16, 15, 13, respectively, in the extract. Tannins and sambacin were not detected.

[0180] The dry matter content of the jasmine leaf extract extracted with glycerol / water is 7 g / L.

[0181] 2. Preparation of Hydroalcoholic Extract of Jasmine Leaves

[0182] Jasmine leaves were prepared according to Example 1. Solid / liquid extraction was performed by using 50 / 50 (v / v) propanediol / water or 70 / 30 (v / v) ethanol / water. To this end, the hydroethanolic extract was then concentrated by evaporating the ethanol under reduced pressure. The concentrated extract was redissolved in 80 / 20 (v / v) propanediol / water and filtered. The filtered jasmine extract (hereinafter referred to as JSE) was used in the following experiments.

[0183] The dry matter content of the jasmine leaf extract extracted with 70 / 30 (v / v) ethanol / water was 8 to 11 g / L.

[0184] The same chromatographic characteristics of the extracts of jasmine were observed for all the above mentioned solvents.

[0185] The same results were obtained by using water as the extraction solvent.

[0186] In other words, the above mentioned solvents are capable of extracting jasmine leaves having the characteristics described, meaning containing at least two sambacosides, including sambacoside A, and at least two molihuasides (data not shown).

[0187] 3. Transcriptomic study to evaluate the biological activity of JSE on isolated skin cells

[0188] Experimental studies were conducted in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) or normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) using RT-qPCR technology (Taqman). It was confirmed that JSE can improve the skin's defense against microbial pathogens (see Table 1), prevent skin inflammation (see Table 2), improve skin barrier function (see Table 3), improve skin hydration (see Table 4), improve skin fibrosis, improve the appearance of skin scars, and improve fibrotic skin and skin comfort (see Table 5). In addition, the skin soothing properties were also studied (see Table 6). Finally, it was demonstrated that JSE exhibits the property of inhibiting hair growth (see Table 7).

[0189] method:

[0190] After NHDF or NHEK were treated with JSE detected at 0.25% by weight for 24h, mRNA expression was quantified. According to the advice of the supplier (Qiagen), mRNA extraction was realized. In short, lysis buffer RLT-Plus was added to the cell pellet, and the homogenized lysate was transferred to the "RNeasy" column. The column was washed with buffer. Elution was realized with RNase-free water, and RNA quantification was completed by measuring OD (Biotek, Cytation3 & Take3 Plate) at 260nm, 280nm and 320nm using "Nucleic Acid Quantification" software application. mRNA quality was checked using a fragment analyzer (Advanced Analytical). Then, mRNA reverse transcription allowing the acquisition of cDNA templates was performed on a thermal cycler (Bio-Rad). qPCR was performed using cDNA templates. For transcriptomic studies, pre-designed plates (Bio-Rad) were used for ECM components, skin barrier function, epidermal differentiation, inflammation, hydration and skin homeostasis. The generated data then allowed the automatic calculation of mRNA expression fold changes and p-values ​​compared to untreated conditions using Bio-Rad CFX Manager. All data were statistically significant compared to control conditions with a p-value threshold of <0.1.

[0191] result:

[0192] The following table summarizes the results obtained after the transcriptomics study:

[0193] Table 1: Comparison of relative gene expression ratios between the control group and the group treated with JSE. Genes involved in antimicrobial defense mechanisms.

[0194]

[0195] Table 2: Comparison of relative gene expression ratios between the control group and the group treated with JSE.

[0196] Genes involved in the inflammatory process.

[0197]

[0198] Table 3: Comparison of relative gene expression ratios between the control group and the group treated with JSE. Genes involved in skin barrier function and epidermal differentiation process.

[0199]

[0200] Table 4:Comparison of relative gene expression ratios between the control group and the group treated with JSE. Genes involved in hydration properties.

[0201]

[0202]

[0203] Table 5: Comparison of relative gene expression ratios between the control group and the group treated with JSE. Genes involved in dermal remodeling, connective tissue formation, and skin elasticity.

[0204]

[0205] Table 6: Comparison of the relative gene expression ratio of TRPV1 between the control group and the group treated with JSE.

[0206]

[0207] Table 7: Comparison of the relative gene expression ratio of DKK1 between the control group and the group treated with JSE.

[0208]

[0209] Stimulation of the skin's intrinsic antimicrobial defense mechanisms

[0210] Table 1 shows the ability of JSE to protect the skin from pathogenic microorganisms by inducing endogenous antimicrobial peptide expression in NHEK. Table 1 is a comparison of the relative gene expression ratios of antimicrobial peptide genes between the control group and the group treated with JSE. The regulated gene set includes DEFB4A, DEFB103B and S100A7, encoding the antimicrobial peptides hBD2 and hBD3 and psoralen, respectively. In fact, it was confirmed that JSE significantly regulated the expression of hβD2 and hβD3 and psoralen, which was statistically significantly upregulated in NHEK treated with JSE for 24 hours. These results demonstrate that JSE can protect the skin from pathogen colonization. In addition, it is known that stimulating the expression of these antimicrobial peptides has beneficial effects on symbiotic skin, i.e., healthy skin, and for dysbiotic skin (i.e., non-healthy skin).

[0211] Anti-inflammatory properties

[0212] Table 2 confirms the anti-inflammatory properties of JSE in NEHK, as it allowed a significant inhibition of the mRNA expression of several pro-inflammatory markers (IL1, TNF, CH25H). In contrast, BLMH was significantly upregulated, allowing a better control of skin inflammation:

[0213] -IL1 is known to play a role in health and disease as a master regulator of inflammation that controls various innate immune processes.

[0214] - TNF is involved in the regulation of immune cells. TNF is released in response to bacterial products such as lipopolysaccharide, but also in response to IL1. Moreover, TNF promotes inflammatory reactions, which in turn lead to many diseases such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, acne.

[0215] -CH25H plays multiple roles in lipid biosynthesis and innate immunity.

[0216] In contrast, JSE induced BLMH upregulation. In NHEKs, BLMH is known to regulate the secretion of chemokines involved in inflammation and wound healing. Indeed, when BLMH was downregulated, skin inflammation increased.

[0217] These results demonstrate that JSE exhibits an anti-inflammatory effect, which may be beneficial in soothing inflamed skin, such as acne skin (acne), atopic dermatitis skin, psoriasis skin, or erythematous skin.

[0218] Improve skin barrier function

[0219] Table 3 demonstrates the ability of JSE to improve skin barrier function in NHEKs by upregulating the expression of differentiation genes and enzymes involved in ceramide metabolism and autophagy processes (SMPD1). Indeed, JSE induced the overexpression of CDSN, KRT1, TRPV4, and SMPD1:

[0220] -CDSN contributes to keratinocyte adhesion

[0221] -KRT1 is a member of the keratin family and maintains skin integrity and keratinocyte structure

[0222] -LOR contributes to the protective barrier function of the stratum corneum

[0223] -TRPV4 is a cation channel activated by hypotonicity, moderate heat or shear stress and is essential for the proper establishment of tight junctions and the regulation of their barrier function.

[0224] -SMPD1 is an enzyme that breaks down sphingomyelin into ceramide and phosphorylcholine, with ceramide being key for lysosome biogenesis. Lysosomes are known to play a role in epidermal homeostasis.

[0225] These results demonstrate that JSE can maintain and enhance skin barrier function. In fact, JSE induced a statistically significant overexpression of several proteins of interest in the epidermal differentiation process, which is the main biological process responsible for the maintenance of skin barrier function.

[0226] Improves skin hydration

[0227] The ability of JSE to improve skin hydration in NHEKs is shown in Table 4. Indeed, the expression of genes AGPAT9, BLMH, HAL, XYLT1 and CSPG4 were statistically significantly upregulated in cells treated with JSE.

[0228] -AGPAT9: is an enzyme involved in the metabolism of glycerolipids and glycerophospholipids. This later serves as a source of free fatty acids, which are known to be often involved in maintaining the epidermal permeability barrier function.

[0229] -BLMH is a protease involved in the degradation of citrullinated filaggrin monomers into free amino acids of interest for skin hydration. The expression and activity of BLMH were shown to be reduced in patients with atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

[0230] -HAL catalyzes the degradation of histidine on urocanate, derived from the catabolism of skin filaggrin

[0231] -XYLT1 is an enzyme that catalyzes the transfer of UDP-xylose to serine residues. The addition of this xylose to the core protein is essential for the biosynthesis of the glycosaminoglycan chains characteristic of proteoglycans.

[0232] -CSPG4 is a cell surface proteoglycan that binds inter alia to perlecan, another proteoglycan.

[0233] These results demonstrate that JSE can keep the skin healthy by keeping it well hydrated. In fact, JSE induced a statistically significant overexpression of several enzymes and macromolecules such as CSPG4, which normally plays a role in the skin hydration process.

[0234] Anti-scarring properties, anti-fibrotic properties

[0235] Table 5 shows the ability of JSE to improve fibrotic skin in NHDF by regulating the expression of genes involved in connective tissue formation and its degradation. The results demonstrate that JSE can act as an anti-fibrotic agent to improve the healing outcome of fibrotic scars such as hypertrophic and keloid scarring. In addition, JSE stimulates the expression of elastin, allowing the skin to be more comfortable. In fact, stimulating elastin expression in scarred skin will make the skin softer, therefore restoring better skin feel and comfort. In fact, scarred skin stiffness is associated with loss of skin comfort.

[0236] Skin soothing properties

[0237] Table 6 shows the ability of JSE to soothe skin in NHEK. In fact, a statistically significant downregulation of TRPV1 mRNA expression was observed in keratinocytes treated with JSE. The results demonstrate that JSE has soothing properties. This property would be useful for sensitive and itchy skin. In addition, JSE may also be beneficial for dry skin, which is known to be quite reactive and painful. Inhibition of TRPV1 may also be of interest for atopic and psoriatic skin.

[0238] Hair growth inhibition

[0239] Table 7 shows the ability of JSE to inhibit hair growth in NHEKs. Indeed, a statistically significant upregulation of DKK1 mRNA expression was observed in keratinocytes treated with JSE. Since DKK1 is an inhibitor of the Wnt pathway, a major biological pathway involved in the hair growth cycle, it is believed that JSE is able to reduce hair growth.

[0240] 4. Transcriptomic study to evaluate the bioactivity of JSE on reconstructed human epidermis

[0241] To confirm the results obtained in Example 3 for isolated skin cells (NHDF, NHEK), the evaluation of gene expression by RTqPCR assay was also carried out on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) infected or not infected with M. furfur, treated or not with JSE at a concentration of 0.25 wt%. RHE is a well-known model that simulates the behavior of human epidermis. The preparation method (RTqPCR) was similar to that described in Example 3.

[0242] The results obtained for RHE confirmed those obtained for isolated skin cells as described in Table 1 of Example 3. Indeed, JSE enhanced the ability of the skin to induce the expression of antimicrobial defense genes after infection with M. furfur, as shown below:

[0243] Table 8: Comparison of relative gene expression ratios between the control group infected with M. furfur and the group treated with JSE. Genes involved in antimicrobial defense mechanisms.

[0244]

[0245]

[0246] Confirmed to stimulate the skin's intrinsic antimicrobial defense mechanisms

[0247] Table 8 demonstrates and confirms the ability of JSE to protect skin from M. furfur by inducing the expression of endogenous antimicrobial peptides in RHE. Surprisingly, JSE has no direct inhibitory activity against M. furfur. In addition, Table 8 emphasizes that JSE is able to induce the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides in RHE compared to Table 1. In fact, CAMP, hBD1 and RNase7 are also regulated. CAMP is a peptide that is cleaved into the active form of LL-37 and has broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity. RNase7 exhibits strong ribonuclease activity on human skin. RNase7 has broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity.

[0248] Stimulating the expression of these antimicrobial peptides is known to bring about beneficial effects, such as for preventing dandruff formation on the scalp, for soothing the scalp and more generally for maintaining skin and scalp health.

[0249] Confirmation of the anti-inflammatory properties of JSE against RHE

[0250] The results obtained for RHE also confirmed the results obtained for isolated skin cells as described in Table 2 of Example 3. Indeed, JSE enhanced the ability of the skin to suppress the expression of inflammatory genes after colonization of the skin with M. furfur, as shown below:

[0251] Table 9: Comparison of relative gene expression ratios between the M. furfur-infected control group and the group treated with JSE. Genes involved in inflammatory processes.

[0252]

[0253] Table 9 confirms that in RHE, JSE exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, since it allows a significant inhibition of the mRNA expression of several pro-inflammatory markers (IL-1, TNF, IL-17). JSE is therefore able to soothe the skin.

[0254] Confirmation of improvement in skin barrier function with RHE

[0255] The results obtained for RHE are consistent with those obtained for isolated skin cells in Table 3 of Example 3 and confirm the ability of JSE to restore and / or maintain the epidermal barrier function of the skin.

[0256] Furthermore, the lucifer yellow permeability assay was performed on RHE treated with or without JSE and infected or uninfected with M. furfur. Figure 2 As shown in , JSE (0.1% and 0.25%) did not affect the barrier permeability of RHE in the absence of M. furfur.

[0257] In the presence of M. furfur on RHE, Lucifer Yellow managed to cross the epidermis, implying that the epidermal barrier function was disrupted due to colonization by this yeast. Surprisingly, when RHE was infected with M. furfur and treated with JSE (0.1% and 0.25%), restoration of the epidermal barrier function was observed. In fact, JSE was able to restore the epidermal barrier function to the same level as ketoconazole, a known antifungal compound used as a positive control.

[0258] Additionally, results obtained by periodic acid-Schiff (PAS) staining after or without M. furfur colonization of RHE confirmed the ability of JSE to reduce the number of M. furfur on the surface of RHE (data not shown).

Claims

1. An aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of the leaves of jasmine containing iridoid glycosides, the iridoid glycosides comprising: (A) at least two sambacosides, including sambacoside A, and (B) At least two molihuasides.

2. The extract according to claim 1, wherein: - the at least two sambacosides are selected from sambacoside E or F, or a mixture thereof; - The molihuaside is selected from molihuaside A, B, C, D, E, or a mixture of two or more thereof.

3. The extract according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the extract comprises sambacoside A, E and F, and wherein the molihuaside is molihuaside A to E.

4. The extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract is further characterized in that it comprises: (A) 30 to 70 wt%, preferably 35 to 65 wt%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt% of sambacoside A, based on the total weight of total iridoid glycosides; and / or (B) 1 to 70 wt. %, preferably 10 to 60 wt. %, of molihuaside, based on the total weight of the dry matter content of the extract; and / or (C) 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 50% by weight, more preferably 25 to 45% by weight, in particular 30 to 40% by weight, of one or more phenolic components, based on the total weight of the dry matter content of the extract.

5. The extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total iridoid content expressed as oleuropein equivalents comprises 1000 to 3000 ppm, preferably 1500 to 2500 ppm, more preferably 1800 to 2200 ppm.

6. The extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dry matter content of the extract is 5 g / L to 15 g / L, preferably 7 g / L to 13 g / L, more preferably 8.5 g / L to 12 g / L (weight / volume of solvent).

7. The extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract is obtainable by solid / liquid extraction of leaves of jasmine in a solvent selected from water or a mixture of water and an alcohol, wherein the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, propanediol, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and combinations of two or more thereof.

8. The extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solvent is an ethanol / water mixture, a glycerol / water mixture or a propanediol / water mixture.

9. The extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract is a hydroalcoholic extract, wherein the water / alcohol ratio is 5:95 (v / v), preferably 10:90 (v / v), more preferably 20 / 80 (v / v), in particular 30:70 (v / v).

10. A method for preparing an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising the following steps: i) crushing the leaves, optionally drying, ii) solid / liquid extraction of the crushed leaves with at least one solvent selected from water, or a mixture of water and an alcohol, wherein the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, propanediol, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, preferably wherein the solvent is a mixture of ethanol / water, a mixture of glycerol / water or a mixture of propanediol / water in a ratio of 95:5 to 5:95, preferably 90:10 to 20:80, more preferably 70:30 to 50:50, a) wherein the solid / liquid extraction is carried out at room temperature for 30 min to 10 hours, preferably 45 min to 8 hours, more preferably 1 h to 5 hours, b) wherein the solid / liquid ratio is between 1:5 and 1:20, preferably between 1:7 and 1:

15. iii) separating the solid phase from the liquid phase to recover the liquid portion, iv) optionally, concentrating the liquid fraction containing the solvent based extract by at least partially removing the extraction solvent.

11. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising: - an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9, or an extract obtained by the process according to claim 10, as an active ingredient; and - at least a cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically acceptable ingredient other than an extract of jasmine leaves, wherein the composition is a composition for topical use selected from the group consisting of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, creams, pastes, gels, lotions, powders, soaps, water containing surfactants, oils, shampoos and sprays; or wherein the composition is a nutraceutical composition for oral administration.

12. Use of a composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 10 in skin care, wherein the use is for: - Improve and / or restore skin barrier function and / or skin hydration, - Improve skin elasticity, -Prevents the formation of stretch marks, - For preventing and / or regulating sebum secretion, - For preventing the oily appearance of the skin, or - A combination of two or more of these.

13. A composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 10 for use as an antidandruff agent.

14. A composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 10 as an antioxidant.

15. A composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 10 as a whitening agent.

16. A composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 10 for use in skin care in: - stimulates the skin's intrinsic anti-microbial defense mechanisms, -Prevent skin dysbiosis, - Maintain or restore skin symbiosis, - Reduce skin inflammation and / or soothe the skin, - Reduce fibrosis, especially when associated with scarring, - A combination of two or more of these.

17. The composition for use according to claim 16, wherein the skin care is a skin care for reducing the number and / or intensity of red skin lesions, preferably wherein the skin care is for managing skin susceptible to atopic dermatitis, acne lesions, fibrotic lesions, scarring, inflammation, redness or a combination of two or more thereof.

18. Use of a composition comprising or consisting of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 11 for inhibiting hair growth.

19. Use of a composition comprising or consisting of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to claim 11 for preventing the oily appearance of hair.

20. A composition comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of jasmine leaves, preferably an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9, or consisting of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of jasmine leaves, preferably an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9, as an active ingredient in a method for treating or preventing a skin disorder selected from the group consisting of atopic dermatitis, acne, fibrotic disorders, scars, pathological skin redness, pathological skin inflammation, and a combination of two or more thereof.

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