Male suit and lining pattern making method thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of garment structure design, and discloses a male suit and a lining pattern making method thereof. The invention relates to a pattern making method for a fine dried face of a male suit. The pattern making method comprises the steps of S1, designing and determining a front body pattern before chest skimming; s2, making a fine dried noodle template on the basis of the front body template; s3, dividing a chest dart into two parts on the front body template according to a chest skimming design value, transferring the first part of the chest dart to a front middle jaw, and transferring the second part of the chest dart to a bottom hem; the front body template is subjected to chest skimming and gathering according to the fine dried noodle template, so that the new front body neck side point of the front body template is matched with the fine dried noodle neck side point of the fine dried noodle template. According to the method, the fine dried noodle template serves as a measurement standard, the front body chest-skimming gathering amount can be accurately controlled, so that the manufacturing precision and fitness of the suit are improved, the male suit manufacturing process is more normalized and standardized, and the production efficiency and the product quality are improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of clothing structure design, in particular to a hanging plate making method for men's suits and the men's suits. Background Art

[0002] At present, there are two widely used technologies for making the front pattern of men's suits: the first is to divide the front body pattern after the chest is cut into the front pattern and the front body lining pattern. The second is to match the front pattern after the chest is cut, that is, after the chest is cut, the chest shape of the front body is formed. In the first method, when shaping the chest shape of the front body, the front body and the front pattern need to be gathered together at the front stop, and the chest cut amount of the front body and the front pattern should be the same, but the amount of gathering depends entirely on experience. In the second method, the front body stop is gathered together to shape the chest shape, and then the front pattern is matched. Although the front pattern does not need to be gathered together, it is also configured according to the deformed front body piece, and the amount of gathering of the front body piece is also an empirical value.

[0003] Therefore, in the existing production process, there is still an over-reliance on experience and no measurement standard as to how to control the size of the chest shape of a finished men's suit and whether it is gathered in place. Summary of the invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for making a hanging plate for men's suits and men's suits, so as to solve the problem that the hanging plate making technology for men's suits is overly dependent on experience values, resulting in low production efficiency.

[0005] To achieve this object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0006] The method for making a hanging plate for men's suits comprises the following steps:

[0007] S1, design and determine the front body pattern before the chest;

[0008] S2, making a noodle sample based on the predecessor sample;

[0009] S3, on the front body pattern, according to the design value of the chest opening, the chest dart is divided into two parts, the chest dart in the first part is transferred to the front stop E, and the chest dart in the second part is transferred to the bottom hem;

[0010] S4, according to the noodles pattern, the front body pattern is gathered together so that the new front body neck point Q1' of the front body pattern is consistent with the noodles neck point Q2 of the noodles pattern.

[0011] In some embodiments, step S2 is specifically:

[0012] Point A is determined on the shoulder line of the front body pattern before the chest is tilted, at a distance L1 from the front body neck side point Q1; Point B is determined on the waistline horizontal line, at a distance L2 from the front center line; the tangent point of the bottom hem arc and the bottom hem horizontal line is taken as point C, and the curve connecting points A, B and C in sequence is used as the dividing line of the noodle pattern.

[0013] In some embodiments, the distance L1 is 3 cm; the distance L2 is 9 cm.

[0014] In some embodiments, in step S3, the chest dart is divided into three equal parts according to the chest-skimming design value, two of which are used as the first part of the chest dart, and the remaining one is used as the second part of the chest dart.

[0015] In some embodiments, step S3 specifically comprises the following steps:

[0016] On the front body pattern, an R line is made from the chest dart point D to the front stop E, and the R line is used as the transfer position line of the chest dart in the first part; the dart line from the dart point F to the bottom hem horizontal line is used as the transfer position line of the chest dart in the second part.

[0017] In some embodiments, in step S4, when the front body pattern is gathered according to the noodles pattern, the front stop E and the collar cavity of the front body pattern are consistent with the noodles pattern, and the new front body neck point Q1' is consistent with the noodles neck point Q2.

[0018] Men's suits, according to the method for making a hanging pattern of the men's suit provided by the present invention, the chest size of the predecessor sample of the men's suit is consistent with the hanging pattern.

[0019] Beneficial effects of the present invention:

[0020] The method for making a face pattern of a men's suit provided by the present invention makes a face pattern based on a designed and determined front body pattern before the chest opening, then performs chest opening on the front body pattern according to the chest opening design value, and finally gathers the chest opening of the front body pattern according to the face pattern, so that the neck side point of the front body pattern and the face pattern coincide. The present invention can accurately control the amount of gathering the front body chest opening by using the face pattern as a measurement standard, thereby improving the manufacturing accuracy and fit of the suit, making the manufacturing process of the men's suit more standardized, and thus improving production efficiency and product quality. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0021] Figure 1 It is a flow chart of a method for making a hanging plate for men's suits provided by an embodiment of the present invention;

[0022] Figure 2 It is a structural schematic diagram of a front body pattern without a chest cut in a method for making a hanging pattern of a men's suit provided by an embodiment of the present invention;

[0023] Figure 3 It is a structural schematic diagram of a hanging noodle sample in a hanging noodle plate making method for men's suits provided by an embodiment of the present invention;

[0024] Figure 4 It is a schematic diagram of the process of making a noodle sample in the method for making a noodle plate for men's suits provided by an embodiment of the present invention;

[0025] Figure 5 The present invention is a schematic diagram of the process of cutting the chest of a front body sample in the method for making a hanging plate of a men's suit provided by an embodiment of the present invention.

[0026] In the figure:

[0027] 1. Forebody pattern; 11. Shoulder line; 12. Dart line; 13. Bust dart; 14. R line; 15. Dart line; 16. Lapel stop; 17. Lapel fold line; 18. Bust amount to be gathered; 19. Front center line;

[0028] 2. Noodle sample. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0029] The present invention will be further described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and embodiments. It is to be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are only used to explain the present invention, rather than to limit the present invention. It should also be noted that, for ease of description, only parts related to the present invention, rather than all structures, are shown in the accompanying drawings.

[0030] In the description of the present invention, unless otherwise clearly specified and limited, the terms "connected", "connected", and "fixed" should be understood in a broad sense, for example, it can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral connection; it can be a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; it can be a direct connection or an indirect connection through an intermediate medium, it can be the internal connection of two elements or the interaction relationship between two elements. For ordinary technicians in this field, the specific meanings of the above terms in the present invention can be understood according to specific circumstances.

[0031] In the present invention, unless otherwise clearly specified and limited, a first feature being "above" or "below" a second feature may include that the first and second features are in direct contact, or may include that the first and second features are not in direct contact but are in contact through another feature between them. Moreover, a first feature being "above", "above" and "above" a second feature includes that the first feature is directly above and obliquely above the second feature, or simply indicates that the first feature is higher in level than the second feature. A first feature being "below", "below" and "below" a second feature includes that the first feature is directly below and obliquely below the second feature, or simply indicates that the first feature is lower in level than the second feature.

[0032] In the description of this embodiment, the terms "upper", "lower", "left", "right" and other directions or positional relationships are based on the directions or positional relationships shown in the drawings, and are only for the convenience of description and simplification of operation, rather than indicating or implying that the device or element referred to must have a specific direction, be constructed and operate in a specific direction, and therefore cannot be understood as limiting the present invention. In addition, the terms "first" and "second" are only used to distinguish in the description and have no special meaning.

[0033] The embodiment of the present invention first provides a method for making a plate for a men's suit. Figure 1 The flowchart shown includes the following steps:

[0034] S1, design and determine the front body pattern 1 before the chest; Figure 2 The front body pattern 1 shown, the front body pattern 1 before the chest includes the designed and determined collar, lapel and hem (i.e., hem, including the hem arc line and the hem horizontal line) of the front body pattern 1.

[0035] S2, making noodle sample 2 based on the predecessor sample 1;

[0036] The collar, lapel and round hem of the hanging noodle pattern 2 are consistent with the original predecessor pattern 1. The hanging noodle pattern 2 is the part of the predecessor pattern 1 that has never been cut off. Figure 3 As shown, the noodle pattern 2 does not have a three-dimensional shape, and the neck side point Q2 of the noodle pattern 2 can overlap with the front neck side point Q1 of the front body pattern 1 in front of the chest.

[0037] S3, on the front body pattern 1, according to the design value of the chest splay, the chest dart 13 is divided into two parts, the first part of the chest dart 13 is transferred to the front stop E, and the second part of the chest dart 13 is transferred to the bottom hem;

[0038] This step is the chest-lifting process, and the chest-lifting amount at this time can be quantitatively set, that is, the chest-lifting design value is quantitatively divided and transferred to the front stop E and the bottom hem (including the arc and the horizontal line PC, which refers to the horizontal line of the bottom hem) respectively, to achieve the qualitative and quantitative transfer of the chest dart 13. Among them, the lapel stop 16 and the lapel fold line 17 are also partially displaced, and the chest-lifting amount after connection is implicit in the front stop E.

[0039] S4, according to the noodles pattern 2, the front body pattern 1 is pulled together at the chest, so that the new front body neck point Q1' of the front body pattern 1 after the chest is pulled together coincides with the noodles neck point Q2 of the noodles pattern 2.

[0040] During the production process, the chest bulge is shaped by gathering the chest-lifting amount 18 at the lapel folding line 17. When the gathering amount reaches the set value, all points displaced during the chest-lifting process will return to their original positions.

[0041] The method for making a face pattern of a men's suit provided by the present invention makes a face pattern 2 based on a designed and determined front body pattern 1 before the chest is cut, then cuts the chest of the front body pattern 1 according to the chest cut design value, and finally cuts the chest of the front body pattern 1 according to the face pattern 2, so that the neck side points of the front body pattern 1 and the face pattern 2 (the new front body neck side point Q1' and the face neck side point Q2 after the chest is cut) are consistent. The present invention can accurately control the amount of the front body chest cut and the face pattern 2 by using the face pattern 2 as a measurement standard, thereby improving the manufacturing accuracy and fit of the suit, making the manufacturing process of the men's suit more standardized, and thus improving the production efficiency and product quality.

[0042] In some embodiments, Figure 4 As shown, step S2 is specifically as follows:

[0043] Determine point A on the shoulder line 11 of the front body pattern 1 before the chest is turned up, at a distance L1 from the front body neck side point Q1; determine point B on the waistline horizontal line WL, at a distance L2 from the front center line 19, and take the tangent point of the arc of the bottom hem and the horizontal line of the bottom hem as point C, and connect the curve of point A, point B and point C in sequence as the dividing line of the hanging noodle pattern 2.

[0044] like Figure 4 As shown, the top of the front body pattern 1 without the front chest has the front body side neck point Q1, the bottom hem horizontal line of the front body pattern 1 is PC, and the curve obtained by smoothly connecting point A, point B and point C is used as the dividing line of the noodle pattern 2. Figure 4 As shown, the thick line is traced to obtain the noodle pattern 2, and the dividing line is also the dividing line of the lining. The noodle pattern 2 obtained by this method has the same collar, lapel and hem as the predecessor pattern 1, and the neck side point Q2 of the noodle pattern 2 can coincide with the neck side point Q1 of the predecessor.

[0045] In some embodiments, the distance L1 is 3 cm; the distance L2 is 9 cm, ensuring that the width of the noodle sample 2 does not exceed the dart line 15 on the predecessor sample 1.

[0046] In some embodiments, in step S3, the chest dart 13 is divided into three equal parts according to the chest-skimming design value, two of which are used as the first part of the chest dart 13, and the remaining one is used as the second part of the chest dart 13. In the present invention, the chest-skimming amount can be quantitatively set, so according to the chest-skimming design value, the chest dart 13 can be divided into equal parts so that it can be quantitatively skimmed. In the process of manufacturing, the size of the gathered chest-skimming can be measured by the neck side point Q2 of the noodle sample 2, and finally the gathered chest-skimming amount can be consistent with the set chest-skimming amount.

[0047] In some embodiments, step S3 specifically comprises the following steps:

[0048] On the front body pattern 1, make an R line 14 from the bust dart point D to the front stop E, and use the R line 14 as the transfer position line for the first part of the bust dart 13; use the dart line 15 between the dart line point F and the bottom hem horizontal line PC as the transfer position line for the second part of the bust dart 13.

[0049] like Figure 5 As shown, the specific chest-cutting process of the predecessor sample 1 is as follows:

[0050] The size of the chest dart 13 is divided into three equal parts with the chest dart point D as the center of the circle, and the chest dart point D and the front stop E are connected to obtain the R line 14, and the first part of the chest dart 13 is transferred. The front neck point Q1 before the chest is moved to the new front neck point Q1' after the chest is moved; then the dart line 15 between the dart line point F and the horizontal line PC of the bottom hem is used as the transfer position line of the second part of the chest dart 13, and the second part of the chest dart 13 is transferred to obtain the front body pattern 1 after the chest is moved. So far, the chest dart 13 has been transferred qualitatively and quantitatively, so that the armhole fits, and the front neck point Q1 is displaced to the new front neck point Q1', setting the tone for the chest shaping in the next step of the process. At the same time, the lapel stop 16 and the lapel fold line 17 are also partially displaced, and connecting them will imply the chest amount in the front stop E. During the production process, the chest bulge is shaped by gathering the chest-leaning amount 18 at the lapel fold line 17. When the chest-leaning amount of the front body pattern 1 reaches the set value, all the displaced points will return to their original positions.

[0051] In some embodiments, in step S4, when the front body pattern 1 is gathered together according to the noodles pattern 2, the front stop E and the collar cavity of the front body pattern 1 are consistent with the noodles pattern 2, and the new front body neck side point Q1' is consistent with the noodles neck side point Q2.

[0052] The present invention further provides a men's suit. According to the method for making a hanging plate of a men's suit provided by the present invention, the chest-cutting amount of the predecessor sample 1 of the men's suit is consistent with the hanging plate making method.

[0053] In the men's suit provided in the embodiment of the present invention, the hanging surface pattern 2 is used as a measurement standard. The hanging surface pattern 2 obtained by the hanging surface pattern making method of the men's suit does not have a three-dimensional modeling volume, that is, the front body is spread out in front of the chest. The hanging surface neck side point Q2 of the hanging surface pattern 2 and the front body neck side point Q1 in front of the chest should be at the same position. In this state, noodle pattern 2 plays a measuring role when the front body is gathered and the chest is tilted: when the new front body neck point Q1' of front body pattern 1 after the chest is gathered just coincides with the noodle neck point Q2 of noodle pattern 2, it means that the chest gathering amount of front body pattern 1 coincides with the chest shaping amount setting value; when the new front body neck point Q1' of front body pattern 1 after the chest is gathered exceeds the noodle neck point Q2 of noodle pattern 2, it means that the chest gathering amount of front body pattern 1 exceeds the chest shaping amount setting value; when the new front body neck point Q1' of front body pattern 1 after the chest is gathered does not reach the noodle neck point Q2 of noodle pattern 2, it means that the chest gathering amount of front body pattern 1 does not reach the chest shaping amount setting value.

[0054] Obviously, the above embodiments of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention, and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, various obvious changes, readjustments and substitutions can be made without departing from the protection scope of the present invention. It is not necessary and impossible to list all the embodiments here. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions and improvements made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for making a plate for a men's suit, characterized in that: The steps include: S1, design and determine the front body pattern before the chest opening (1); S2, making a dried noodle sample (2) based on the predecessor sample (1); S3, on the front body pattern (1), according to the design value of the chest-skimming, dividing the chest dart (13) into two parts, the chest dart (13) in the first part is transferred to the front stop E, and the chest dart (13) in the second part is transferred to the bottom hem; S4, according to the dried noodle pattern (2), the front body pattern (1) is gathered together so that the new front body neck point Q1' of the gathered front body pattern (1) coincides with the dried noodle neck point Q2 of the dried noodle pattern (2).

2. The method for making a plate for the hanging surface of men's suits according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step S2 is specifically as follows: A point A is determined on the shoulder line (11) of the front body pattern (1) before the chest is turned up, at a distance L1 from the front body neck side point Q1; a point B is determined on the waistline horizontal line, at a distance L2 from the front center line (19); the point of tangency between the arc of the bottom hem and the horizontal line of the bottom hem is taken as point C; and a curve connecting point A, point B and point C in sequence is used as a dividing line of the noodle pattern (2).

3. The method for making a plate for the hanging surface of men's suits according to claim 2, characterized in that: The distance L1 is 3 cm; the distance L2 is 9 cm.

4. The method for making a plate for hanging surface of men's suits according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, the chest dart (13) is divided into three equal parts according to the chest-skimming design value, two of which are used as the first part of the chest dart (13), and the remaining one is used as the second part of the chest dart (13).

5. The method for making a plate for the hanging surface of men's suits according to claim 4, characterized in that: The specific steps of step S3 are: On the front body pattern (1), an R line (14) is made from the bust dart point D to the front stop E, and the R line (14) is used as the transfer position line of the bust dart (13) in the first part; The dart line (15) between the dart point F and the horizontal line of the bottom hem is used as the transfer position line of the chest dart (13) in the second part.

6. The method for making a plate for the hanging surface of men's suits according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S4, when the front body pattern (1) is gathered at the chest according to the noodles pattern (2), the front end opening E and the collar cavity of the front body pattern (1) are consistent with the noodles pattern (2), and the new front body neck point Q1' is consistent with the noodles neck point Q2.

7. Men's suits, characterized in that: According to the method for making a hanging pattern of a men's suit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, the chest-skimming amount of the front body sample (1) of the men's suit matches the hanging pattern (2) of the set value.

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