Compositions for lightening or whitening keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention provides a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising (i) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives; (ii) at least one oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol; and (v) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from a copolymer obtained from a monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group and having a sulfo group and another monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group without a sulfo group. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular the human skin.

Description

This application is a divisional application of the invention patent application with application number 201880100714.6 and filing date of December 25, 2018, entitled “Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials”. Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to compositions for lightening or whitening keratin materials, especially human skin. Background Art

[0002] The skin color of a person depends on various factors and in particular on the season of the year, race and sex; it is primarily determined by the nature and concentration of the melanin produced by the melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that synthesize melanin with the aid of specific organelles (melanosomes). In addition, at various times in their lives, some people develop dark spots and / or pigmented spots on the skin and more particularly on the hands, which lead to unevenness of the skin.

[0003] For various reasons, some compositions currently used for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, are generally in the form of dispersions of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, composed of an aqueous phase and an oily phase.

[0004] O / W dispersions are the most sought after dispersions in the cosmetic field, since they contain an aqueous phase as external phase, which gives them a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W / O products when applied to the skin.

[0005] However, due to their natural characteristics, conventional oil-in-water dispersions are not entirely satisfactory, especially with respect to both immediate and long-term lightening or whitening of the skin.

[0006] Efforts have been made to introduce silicone resins, styrene-based copolymers in combination with pigments and whitening actives into oil-in-water dispersions. However, the inventors have found that it is difficult to obtain oil-in-water dispersions that have a good lightening or whitening effect on the skin without oil depositing on the surface of the product.

[0007] Therefore, there exists a need for compositions formulated to overcome the above-mentioned difficulties.

[0008] In particular, there is a need to formulate compositions in the form of oil-in-water dispersions comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase having a lightening or whitening effect on keratin materials, without the oil being deposited on the surface of the dispersion. Summary of the invention The inventors have discovered that such needs can be met by the present invention.

[0010] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: (i) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives; (ii) at least one oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol; and (iii) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from copolymers obtained from monomers having an ethylenically unsaturated group and having a sulfonic group and other monomers having an ethylenically unsaturated group and having no sulfonic group.

[0011] The composition according to the invention is advantageous in several respects.

[0012] Firstly, the composition according to the invention has a lightening or whitening effect on keratin materials, in particular human skin.

[0013] Additionally, the compositions of the present invention are homogeneous, with no oil deposited on the surface of the dispersion.

[0014] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes (eg lips), nails. Human skin, especially facial skin, is most particularly contemplated according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION In the following text and unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of a range of values ​​are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from to".

[0017] In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0018] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted as covering all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the specifically mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of ...").

[0019] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: (i) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives; (ii) at least one oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol; and (v) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from copolymers obtained from monomers having an ethylenically unsaturated group and having a sulfonic group and other monomers having an ethylenically unsaturated group and having no sulfonic group.

[0020] Skin lightening or whitening active ingredients The composition according to the invention comprises at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient chosen from hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives.

[0021] Hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives The hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives which can be used in the composition of the present invention are preferably selected from those of the following formula (1): in: R 1 is selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an -OH group and a halogen, R 2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R 3 is chosen from methyl or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R 4 and R 5 are independently selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an -OH group or a halogen.

[0022] With respect to the bond formed by the carbon that connects the two aromatic nuclei to each other, -OH, R 1 , R 4 and R 5 The group may be located in the ortho, meta or para position.

[0023] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a compound of formula (1) is used, wherein: -R 1 , R 2 , R 4 and R 5 represents a hydrogen atom; -R 3 It is methyl; - The -OH groups are located in the ortho and para positions relative to the bond formed by the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to each other.

[0024] The compound corresponds to the following formula (2): It is called 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzene or 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-dihydroxybenzene or otherwise known as phenethylresorcinol or phenethylbenzene or styrylresorcinol. The compound has the CAS number 85-27-8. This compound is marketed by Symrise under the name Symwhite Or Bio 377 for sale.

[0025] If present, the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.1 wt.% to 1 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] Flavonoids According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition further comprises at least one flavonoid as skin lightening or whitening active ingredient.

[0027] Flavonoids are a specific group of polyphenols and are the most abundant group of polyphenolic compounds, constituting about two-thirds of all phenols in the consumed feed. Based on the chemical structure, flavonoids are further classified into chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins and tannins. More than 4,000 flavonoids have been identified, many of which are present in fruits, vegetables and beverages (tea, coffee, beer, fruit wine and fruit drinks). Flavonoids have been reported to have antiviral, antiallergic, antiplatelet, anti-inflammatory, antitumor and antioxidant activities. Flavonoids protect lipids and living cell components from damaging oxidative stress by effectively scavenging free radicals.

[0028] Preferably, the flavonoids used are flavones.

[0029] Baicalin, a component of the Chinese herb Huang-chin, is a flavonoid (a type of flavonoid). It is a potent antioxidant that shows effective effects against oxidative stress diseases, inflammation, allergies, cancer, bacterial infections, etc.

[0030] Baicalin is found in several species of the genus Scutellaria, including Scutellaria baicalensis and Scutellaria lateriflora. 10 mg / g of baicalin is present in the leaves of Scutellaria galericulata. Baicalin is also found in isolates from the bark of the Oroxylumindicum tree.

[0031] In one embodiment according to the invention, baicalin is used in the form of an extract of the root of Scutellaria baiclensis.

[0032] If present, the flavonoid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 1 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Hydrotropes According to a preferred embodiment according to the present invention, the composition further comprises at least one hydrotrope.

[0034] A single type of hydrotrope may be used, but two or more different types of hydrotropes may be used in combination.

[0035] Hydrotropes can be compounds of different classes, characterized by an amphiphilic molecular structure and the ability to significantly increase the solubility of poorly soluble organic molecules in water. Many hydrotropes have an aromatic structure with an ionic portion, while some of them are linear alkyl chains (as listed in the table below). Although hydrotropes are clearly similar to surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively short alkyl chains distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles.

[0036] Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzenesulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluenesulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid hydrochloride, sodium cumenesulfonate, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylmethylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butyl urea, pyrogallol, N-picolylmethylacetamide 3.5, procaine hydrochloride, proline hydrochloride, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethyl urea, N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide and isoniazid. Hydrotropes can be found in Lee J. et al., “Hydrotropic Solubilization of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for Hydrotropic Property”, Pharmaceutical Research, Vol. 20, No. 7, 2003 and Hodgon TK, Kaler EW, “Hydrotropic Solutions”, Current Opinion in Colloid and Interface Science, 12, 121-128, 2007.

[0037] Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes are preferred hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a large class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications are limited due to safety and tolerability limitations. Preferred hydrotropes in cosmetics are listed below: The suitability of a hydrotrope for use in a cosmetic composition can be determined using tests known in the art for determining the effect of a compound on the skin and bioavailability methods.

[0038] The advantage of using a hydrotrope is that once a stable solution is obtained, further dilution does not affect the stability of the solution. This is quite different from organic solvents which are usually used to increase the water solubility of active substances. Typically, water dilution of an organic solvent with a pre-dissolved active substance results in crystallization or precipitation.

[0039] The hydrotrope may have a logP of -0.7 to 6, preferably -0.7 to 1.0, preferably -0.5 to 0.7 for non-ionic hydrotropes, and preferably -0.7 to 5.5 for ionic hydrotropes (eg acidic hydrotropes).

[0040] The formulator will use a hydrotrope to adjust the pH in order to optimize clarity.

[0041] The logP value is the value of the logarithm to the base 10 for the apparent octanol-1-ol / water partition coefficient. The logP value is known and determined by a standard test to determine the concentration of (c) the compound in octanol-1-ol and water. The logP can be calculated according to the method described in the paper Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J.Pharm.Sci., 84:83-92, 1995 by Meylan and Howard. The value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages that determine logP as a function of molecular structure. By way of example, the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Agency can be mentioned.

[0042] The values ​​can be calculated in particular using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67; they are also available from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS Professional Reference Book, 1995). There is also an Internet site that provides estimated values ​​(address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0043] Preferably, the hydrotropic agent is selected from oxothiazolidine carboxylic acid; vitamin B3 and its derivatives, preferably nicotinamide; xanthine base, preferably caffeine; camphor benzalkonium methyl sulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, 2,4-pyridine dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester (diethyllutidinate), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenethylresorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate. Vitamin B3 and its derivatives, xanthine bases (e.g. caffeine) and jasmonic acid derivatives described in more detail below are more preferred.

[0044] (Vitamin B3 and its derivatives) Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, is a compound of the following formula (3): Where R can be -CONH 2 (nicotinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH 2 OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH 2 -COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Nicotinamide is preferred.

[0045] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters, such as tocopheryl nicotinate; 2 The hydrogen groups are derived from the amides of nicotinamide; products from reactions with carboxylic acids and amino acids; esters of nicotinic alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0046] The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, niacinamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicotinamide and nicotinamide sodium.

[0047] Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include its inorganic salts, for example chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates; and its organic salts, for example salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetates, salicylates, glycolates, lactates, malates, citrates, mandelates, tartrates, etc.

[0048] Preferably, vitamin B3 or a derivative thereof has a logP of -0.7 to 6, preferably -0.6 to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4.

[0049] (Xanthine Base) Among the xanthine bases that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, theophylline acetate, xanthinol nicotinate, denifylline, dyphylline, etaphylline and its derivatives, ethoxyphylline, propylphylline, pentophylline, propentylline, pyridoxine and bamiphylline, this list being non-limiting.

[0050] Preferably, the xanthine base is selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, theophylline acetic acid and mixtures thereof. These xanthine bases are known as inhibitors of phosphodiesterase, which is an enzyme responsible for the degradation of cAMP. By increasing the intracellular content of cAMP, these xanthine bases promote lipolytic activity and therefore constitute a first-class slimming active agent.

[0051] As examples of plant extracts containing xanthine bases, mention may especially be made of extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, yerba mate and kola nut, this list being non-limiting.

[0052] Preferably, the xanthine base has a log P of -0.7 to 6, preferably -0.6 to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4 and even more preferably -0.3 to 2.

[0053] (Jasmonic acid derivatives) The jasmonic acid derivatives are compounds selected from those corresponding to the following formula (4): Where: R 1 On behalf of COOR 3 Group, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a C optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups 1 -C 4 Alkyl; R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group which is linear and which has 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or which is branched or cyclic and which has 3 to 18 carbon atoms; and their optical isomers and corresponding salts.

[0054] Preferably, R 1 represents a group selected from the following: -COOH, -COOMe (Me: methyl), -COO-CH 2 -CH 3 、-COO-CH 2- -CH(OH)-CH 2 OH, -COOCH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 OH or -COOCH 2 -CH(OH)-CH 3 . Preferably R 1 Represents a -COOH group.

[0055] Preferably, R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain hydrocarbon group preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms. 2 It may be pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl.

[0056] According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from 3-hydroxy-2-[(2Z)-2-pentenyl]cyclopentaneacetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid, and is preferably 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid.

[0057] The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium, magnesium or strontium salts; metal salts, such as zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper salts; compounds of the formula NH 4 + ammonium salts; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as methylamine salts, dimethylamine salts, trimethylamine salts, triethylamine salts, ethylamine salts, 2-hydroxyethylamine salts, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine salts or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine salts; or lysine salts or arginine salts. Preferably, a salt selected from the group consisting of sodium salts, potassium salts, calcium salts, magnesium salts, strontium salts, copper salts, manganese salts or zinc salts is used.

[0058] The following compounds are preferably used as the jasmonic acid derivative (Mexoryl SBO).

[0059] Preferably, the jasmonic acid derivative has a log P of -0.7 to 6, preferably -0.6 to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4.

[0060] Preferably, the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Oils selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol.

[0062] The C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol may be of vegetable or synthetic origin. The C4-C24 fatty acids may have linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chains.

[0063] The oils are in particular heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides or wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, zucchini oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, shea butter or caprylic / capric triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or by the company Dynamit Nobel under the name Miglyol and The ones that are sold.

[0064] Preferably, the oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Hydrophilic thickener The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from copolymers obtained from monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having sulfonic groups and other monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having no sulfonic groups.

[0066] The hydrophilic thickener is preferably anionic.

[0067] The hydrophilic thickeners used in the compositions of the invention are soluble or dispersible or swellable in water. The hydrophilic thickeners used according to the invention may be in free form or in partially or completely neutralized form. These polymers may optionally contain at least one hydrophobic group and may then constitute amphiphilic polymers (or hydrophobically modified polymers).

[0068] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickeners according to the invention can be partially or completely neutralized with inorganic bases (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or organic bases (e.g. monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine); basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine; and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized. The term "neutralized" is understood in the present invention to mean completely neutralized or virtually completely neutralized (i.e. at least 90% neutralized) polymers.

[0069] The hydrophilic thickener used in the composition of the present invention generally has a number average molecular weight in the range of 1000-20000000 g / mol, preferably 20000-5000000 g / mol and still more preferably 100000-1500000 g / mol.

[0070] The monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having sulfonic groups are particularly selected from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamide (C 1 -C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acid, N-(C 1 -C 22 )alkyl(meth)acrylamide(C 1 -C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acids (for example undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid), and also their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monomers having ethylenic unsaturation and possessing a sulpho group are selected from (meth)acrylamide groups (C 1 -C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamido methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or completely neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Use is more particularly made of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms.

[0073] The monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group and having no sulfonic group may be selected from hydrophilic monomers having an ethylenically unsaturated group.

[0074] The hydrophilic monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups can be chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acid, their alkyl derivatives substituted in the β position, or their esters with mono- or di- or poly-alcohols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0075] The copolymers according to the invention may or may not be cross-linked.

[0076] When the copolymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agent may be chosen from compounds having polyethylenically unsaturated groups usually used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.

[0077] As crosslinking agents, mention may be made of, for example, divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyethylene glycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or allyl ethers or vinyl ethers of other polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0078] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).The degree of crosslinking is generally in the range of 0.01 to 10 mol % and more particularly 0.2 to 2 mol % relative to the polymer.

[0079] The hydrophilic thickener used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen especially from (1) crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, especially those available in the form of W / O emulsions, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 by Seppic (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / laureth-7) or those sold under the name Simulgel 600 by Seppic (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80), (2) copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylates with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, especially those available in the form of W / O emulsions, such as those sold under the name Simulgel 600 by Seppic (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80), Those sold by NS (sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, as a 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 60 and squalane) (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer / squalane / polysorbate 60) or those sold by Seppic under the name Simulgel EG (acrylic acid / 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (in the form of the sodium salt copolymer), as a 45% inverse emulsion in isohexadecane / water) (CTFA name: sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80), and (3) copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid with vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, for example the products sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic thickening polymer used is selected from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

[0081] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 4 wt.%, preferably from 0.3 wt.% to 2 wt.% and more preferably from 0.3 wt.% to 1.2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water Phase The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0082] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, such as C 2 To C 8 Lower polyols or monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0083] The term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols, such as butanediol, propylene glycol and isoprene glycol; caprylyl glycol, glycerol (ie glycerol) and polyethylene glycol.

[0084] The aqueous phase may also contain any conventional water-soluble or water-dispersible additives as mentioned below.

[0085] The aqueous phase may represent 30 to 98 wt.%, preferably 30 to 95 wt.%, still better 50 to 90 wt.% and even better still 60 to 90 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] oil phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

[0087] Preferably, the oil phase is a dispersed oil phase.

[0088] The oil phase may further comprise additional oils besides the oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol as disclosed above.

[0089] The term "oil" refers to any fatty body that is liquid at room temperature (20-25° C.) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0090] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0091] The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than 1 hour at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, volatile oils have a volatile content of between 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min and 200mg / cm 2 / min (including the endpoint).

[0092] The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has a viscosity strictly within 0.01 mg / cm 2 Evaporation rate below / min.

[0093] To measure the evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer with a diameter of 7 cm placed on a balance located at 0.3 m at a temperature controlled at 25° C. and a humidity controlled at 50% relative humidity. 3 The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring by means of a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) located vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades facing the crystallizer and 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil retained in the crystallizer was measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate was expressed in units of surface area (cm 2 ) and expressed as milligrams of oil evaporated per time unit (min).

[0094] Oils suitable for use in the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.

[0095] According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0096] The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

[0097] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to oils containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0098] The oil may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

[0099] Preferably, the oil phase comprising oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol is present in an amount ranging from less than 25 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] additive In a known manner, the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additives customary in cosmetics or dermatology.

[0101] Examples of auxiliaries which may be mentioned include gelling agents, active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, solvents, salts, sunscreens (=UV screening agents), additional dyes, alkaline agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) and mixtures thereof.

[0102] These additives are used in proportions customary in the cosmetic field, for example from 0.01% to 30% by weight of the total composition, and, depending on their nature, are introduced into the aqueous phase or into the oily phase of the composition, or into vesicles or any other type of carrier.

[0103] These additives and their concentrations must be such that they do not alter the desired properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) As skin lightening or whitening active ingredient: 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.% of at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative selected from those of the following formula (1): in: -R 1 , R 2 , R 4 and R 5 represents a hydrogen atom; -R 3 It is methyl; - the -OH groups are located in the ortho and para positions relative to the bond formed by the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to each other; and 0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of at least one flavonoid; (ii) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% of at least one oil selected from heptanoic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid triglyceride, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, zucchini oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, shea butter and caprylic / capric triglyceride; (iii) 0.3 wt.% to 1.2 wt.% of at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylates and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide; and (iv) 1 to 5 wt.% of at least one hydrotrope selected from oxothiazolidine carboxylic acid; vitamin B3 and its derivatives, preferably niacinamide; a xanthine base, preferably caffeine; camphorbenzalkonium methylsulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethyl 2,4-pyridinedicarboxylate, terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenethylresorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloylsalicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate; and a jasmonic acid derivative, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate.

[0105] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is in the form of, for example, a lotion, cream, gel or liquid foundation, more preferably in the form of a gel, and they are prepared according to conventional methods in the cosmetic field.

[0106] Advantageously, the composition of the invention is translucent.

[0107] "Translucent composition" means a composition having a turbidity value less than or equal to 2000 NTU after dilution 20 times, wherein NTU means Nephelometric Turbidity Units.

[0108] Turbidity can be measured according to the following procedure: A sample of the composition to be tested is loaded into a laboratory turbidity meter sample cell and the turbidity value is measured using a Hach Turbidimeter 2100AN according to the manufacturer's instructions.

[0109] Methods and uses The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and may in particular constitute a composition intended for lightening or whitening keratin materials and in particular human skin.

[0110] Therefore, in another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratin material a composition as defined above.

[0111] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

[0112] Percentages are by weight based on active ingredient or active substance.

[0113] In the following examples, weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the composition. Example

[0114] Example 1: Preparation of compositions according to the inventive formulation and the comparative formulation Compositions were prepared according to the inventive formulations (inv.) and comparative formulations (comp.) listed in the following table: Note: The amount of Scutellaria baicalensis root extract is calculated based on the weight of baicalin.

[0115] Ingredients of phase A: dipropylene glycol, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, water.

[0116] Ingredients of Phase B: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (or Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate), Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Bis-PEG / PPG-16 / 16PEG / PPG-16 / 16 Dimethicone (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0117] Preparation method: 1. Add all ingredients of phase A to a beaker, heat to 75°C, and stir until dissolved; 2. Add xanthan gum to phase A until uniform; 3. Heat all ingredients of phase B to 80°C and mix until dissolved; 4. Add phase B to phase A and homogenize for 15 minutes; 5. Add polymer acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or polyacrylamide) and stir until uniform; 6. Cool to 28°C; 7. Mix the ethanol until dissolved and introduce it into the beaker.

[0118] Example 2: Evaluation of compositions of inventive and comparative formulations Whether or not oil was deposited on the surfaces of the compositions according to the comparative formulation and the inventive formulation was observed with the naked eye. The turbidity values ​​of the compositions according to the comparative formulation and the inventive formulation were measured by HACH TURBIDIMETER 2100AN.

[0119] The results are listed in the table below.

[0120] N / A: Not tested The composition according to the inventive formulation had a translucent appearance with a turbidity value of 2000 NTU, and no oil was deposited on the surface of the composition.

Claims

1. A composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: (i) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient, wherein the skin lightening or whitening active ingredient comprises at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative and at least one flavonoid; (ii) at least one oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol; and (iii) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from copolymers obtained from monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having sulfonic groups and other monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having no sulfonic groups, wherein the composition further comprises at least one hydrotrope, The composition has a turbidity value less than or equal to 2000 NTU after dilution 20 times.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative is selected from those of the following formula (1): in: R1 is selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an -OH group and a halogen, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R3 is selected from a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R4 and R5 are independently selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an -OH group or a halogen.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one oil is selected from heptanoic triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, zucchini oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, shea butter, and caprylic / capric triglyceride.

6. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 10.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil selected from C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is selected from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide.

9. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 4 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt.% to 1.2 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the flavonoid is selected from the group consisting of chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, and tannins.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of oxothiazolidine carboxylic acid; vitamin B3 and its derivatives; xanthine bases; camphorbenzalkonium methylsulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethyl 2,4-pyridinedicarboxylate, terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, apigenin, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate; and jasmonic acid derivatives.

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, caffeine, and sodium tetrahydrojasmonate.

14. A composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) As skin lightening or whitening active ingredients: 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.% of at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative selected from those of the following formula (1): in: - R1, R2, R4 and R5 represent hydrogen atoms; - R3 is methyl; - the -OH groups are located in the ortho and para positions relative to the bond formed by the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to each other; and 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.% of at least one flavonoid; (ii) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% of at least one oil selected from heptanoic triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, zucchini oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, shea butter, and caprylic / capric triglyceride; and (iii) 0.3 wt.% to 1.2 wt.% of at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylates with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid with vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide; (iv) 1 to 5 wt.% of at least one hydrotrope selected from oxothiazolidine carboxylic acid; vitamin B3 and its derivatives; xanthine base; camphorbenzalkonium methylsulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethyl 2,4-pyridinedicarboxylate, terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenethylresorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloylsalicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate; and jasmonic acid derivatives, The composition has a turbidity value less than or equal to 2000 NTU after dilution 20 times.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic method for lightening or whitening keratin materials, comprising the step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

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