Composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects as well as preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care, and provides a composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects as well as a preparation method and application thereof. The composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-1 part of a trollius chinensis bunge extract, 0.01-1 part of a Chinese wolfberry fruit extract, 0.01-1 part of a poria cocos sclerotium extract and 0.5-10 parts of sutrandan, and active components of the sutrandan comprise a radix sophorae flavescentis extract, a tribulus terrestris fruit extract and a dogwood fruit extract. According to the composition, six specific plant extracts including the trollius chinensis bunge extract, the Chinese wolfberry fruit extract, the poria cocos sclerotium extract, the radix sophorae flavescentis extract, the tribulus terrestris fruit extract and the dogwood fruit extract are selected and compounded, and the multiple components have a synergistic effect, so that the prepared product has good light aging resistance and after-sun soothing effects at the same time; and the composition also has the advantages of small irritation and high safety.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and specifically relates to a composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Photoaging mainly refers to the morphological, histological and physiological changes that occur when the skin is exposed to UVA (wavelength 320-400nm), UVB (wavelength 275-320nm) and LED blue light (wavelength 460-470nm) for a long time. Skin aging caused by ultraviolet radiation is often manifested as skin sagging, spots, capillary dilation, wrinkles, grayish yellow skin, etc.; blue light radiation can also cause accelerated skin aging, sagging and spots, yellow and dull skin, lack of skin elasticity, accelerated wrinkles, etc. The essence of ultraviolet and blue light damage to cells is that the photon energy of ultraviolet or blue light is absorbed by the atoms or molecules of the cells, causing the electronic energy level state of the atoms to change, generating a large number of secondary electrons and free radicals, which in turn leads to damage to the nuclear DNA in the cells, reduced collagen, increased inflammatory factors and other damage events, ultimately leading to skin aging.

[0003] Existing products generally fight against photoaging through anti-oxidation, free radical scavenging and other means, but anti-photoaging products can only initially resist photodamage caused by part of the light, and the remaining light will still cause photoaging of the skin. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a product that can simultaneously have good anti-photoaging and after-sun repair and soothing effects. Summary of the invention

[0004] In view of the deficiencies in the prior art, one of the purposes of the present invention is to provide a composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, which not only has significant anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, but also has the advantages of low irritation and high safety.

[0005] The second object of the present invention is to provide a facial cream containing the above composition which has anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, and the facial cream has high stability and low irritation.

[0006] The third object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the above-mentioned facial cream, which is simple, efficient and suitable for industrial production and application.

[0007] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0008] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, which comprises the following preparation raw materials, measured by weight: 0.01 to 1 part of nasturtium extract, 0.01 to 1 part of wolfberry fruit extract, 0.01 to 1 part of Poria cocos sclerotium extract, and 0.5 to 10 parts of Shuyi Dan.

[0009] In the above technical solution, the active components of the Shuyidan are Sophora flavescens root extract, Tribulus terrestris fruit extract, and Cornus officinalis fruit extract.

[0010] Furthermore, the above composition includes the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-0.1 parts of nasturtium extract, 0.01-0.1 parts of wolfberry fruit extract, 0.01-0.1 parts of Poria cocos sclerotium extract, and 1-6 parts of Shuyidan; and / or, also includes 1-6 parts of polyol and 1-5 parts of deionized water in parts by weight.

[0011] Furthermore, the above composition further comprises 4 to 5 parts by weight of 1,3-propylene glycol and 2 to 3 parts by weight of deionized water.

[0012] Furthermore, the nasturtium flower extract is an ethanol aqueous solution extract of the nasturtium flower, and the volume fraction of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution is 60-80%.

[0013] In the above technical scheme, the nasturtium extract contains flavonoids, organic acids, alkaloids, coumarins and other ingredients. Flavonoids are the most abundant compounds in nasturtium, accounting for 16.0% of the total flower dry weight. They can improve the skin's antioxidant capacity, promote metabolism, restore elasticity, and also have good anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and ultraviolet resistance capabilities.

[0014] Sophora flavescens root extract has high-efficiency bactericidal, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Sophora flavescens root extract can also balance oil secretion, dredge and tighten pores, and remove toxins and impurities in the skin. Rich in herbal nutrition, it promotes the growth and repair of damaged vascular nerve cells, restores the vitality of subcutaneous capillary cells, and makes the skin more firm, tender and smooth. It can also help lock in skin moisture and reduce the loss of skin nutrients, and has a good moisturizing and repairing effect. Matrine is one of the most important ingredients in Sophora flavescens root extract. It can soothe and repair the skin base, and matrine can also reduce the release of allergic mediators in the body, thereby playing an immunosuppressive role. Therefore, Sophora flavescens root extract has the effects of removing acne and anti-allergy.

[0015] Tribulus terrestris fruit extract has antibacterial and analgesic effects, which can help prevent and relieve skin infections and pain; the tribulus terrestris saponins contained in tribulus terrestris fruit can enhance the activity of the body's natural killer cells, thereby helping to prevent and treat the decline in immune function in the elderly and having anti-aging effects; tribulus terrestris fruit can also improve skin quality, promote blood circulation, and make the skin soft and smooth, with a good cosmetic effect.

[0016] The natural antibacterial ingredients contained in Cornus officinalis fruit extract can reduce the harm of bacteria to the human body. It also contains rich antioxidant ingredients such as flavonoids, vitamins C and E. These ingredients can effectively resist free radicals, reduce cell damage, and delay cell aging. These antioxidant ingredients can also help eliminate facial fine lines and improve skin elasticity, making the skin look brighter and more moisturized. Cornus officinalis is also rich in various vitamins and minerals, which can provide the skin with sufficient nutrition and moisture, further improving the health of the skin.

[0017] Lycium barbarum extract contains alkaloids, flavonoids, amino acids and other nutrients. It has strong antioxidant capacity, can effectively remove hydroxyl free radicals, can effectively lighten spots and brighten skin tone, and is safe and non-irritating to the skin. Lycium barbarum oligosaccharides are rich in hydroxyl, carboxyl and other polar groups that can form hydrogen bonds with water molecules to synthesize endogenous hyaluronic acid, which has a powerful deep hydration and water-locking effect. Lycium barbarum extract can also balance the natural state of the skin, help prevent oxidized DNA, restore damaged DNA, delay and prevent skin aging, and protect the skin's outer layer factors.

[0018] Poria sclerotium is the dried sclerotium of the Polyporaceae fungus Poria cocos. The Poria sclerotium extract is rich in chemical components, including polysaccharides, triterpenes, steroids, proteins, minerals, etc., and has a good anti-inflammatory effect on various inflammations. Its water extract is antibacterial and has a good inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, etc.; Poria sclerotium contains active ingredients such as polysaccharides, triterpenes, sterols, enzymes, etc. Polysaccharides can increase the activity of superoxide dismutase in serum to varying degrees, reduce the content of MDA, and have a good anti-aging effect.

[0019] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a use of the above composition in preparing cosmetics. It is understood that the cosmetics include eye care products such as eye creams, eye essences, eye masks, and facial care products such as face creams, facial essences, and facial masks.

[0020] Furthermore, the present invention provides a facial cream, which is prepared from the above composition and auxiliary materials. That is, in order to improve sensory properties, provide nutrition to the skin, prevent quality deterioration, etc., various ingredients generally used in cosmetics other than the above ingredients can be appropriately added to the composition of the present invention as needed within the scope that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0021] As a further preferred embodiment of the technical solution of the present invention, the auxiliary material is selected from one or more of polyols, humectants, emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, metal ion chelating agents, preservatives, pH regulators, and deionized water.

[0022] As a further preferred embodiment of the technical solution of the present invention, the emulsifier is a composite emulsifier of cetyl palmitate / sorbitan palmitate / sorbitan olivate and cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate;

[0023] The emollient is selected from one or more of avocado tree (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) butter, phytosteryl isostearate, hydrogenated polydecene, isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, isohexadecane, and cyclopentasiloxane;

[0024] The thickener is a compound of an oil phase thickener and a water phase thickener, wherein the oil phase thickener is selected from one or more of pentaerythritol distearate, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, cetearyl alcohol, and beeswax; and the water phase thickener is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, carbomer, and hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0025] As a further preferred embodiment of the technical solution of the present invention, the metal ion chelator is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA, EDTA, and tetrasodium EDTA; the polyol is selected from one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, and hexylene glycol; the preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, chlorphenesin, methylparaben, parahydroxyacetophenone, propylparaben, 1,2-hexanediol, and sorbitan octanoate.

[0026] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned facial cream, comprising the following steps:

[0027] (1) using deionized water, a metal ion chelating agent, a polyol, and an aqueous phase thickener as a base solvent, heating and stirring in an emulsifying tank at 79 to 83° C. to prepare a mixture A in which each component is evenly dispersed;

[0028] (2) adding the components of the emulsifier and the emollient to the oil phase pretreatment tank, heating and stirring at 80-85° C. until the components are dissolved and evenly dispersed, filtering after sieving, heating at 79-83° C. in the emulsification tank of step (1), performing sufficient vacuum homogenization treatment, and stirring at a low speed to obtain a uniform mixture B;

[0029] (3) pre-mixing the oil phase thickener and the polyol component, and then adding them to the mixture B obtained in step (2); after sufficient vacuum homogenization, stirring at a low speed and cooling to obtain a uniform mixture AC;

[0030] (4) cooling the mixture AC of step (3) to 45-55° C. and sieving, adding a composition having anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, and after sufficient vacuum homogenization, stirring at a low speed and cooling to obtain a mixture AD;

[0031] (5) Cooling the mixture AD in step (4) to 35-40° C., adding the preservative component to the mixture AD obtained in step (4), and after sufficient vacuum homogenization, stirring at a low speed and cooling to room temperature to obtain the facial cream.

[0032] Furthermore, the rotation speed of the vacuum homogenization treatment in the above steps (2) and (3) is 1500-2500 r / m, and the treatment time is 8-12 min; the rotation speed of the vacuum homogenization treatment in the above steps (4) and (5) is 1000-2000 r / m, and the treatment time is 3-5 min; the low-speed stirring rotation speed of the above steps (2), (3), (4) and (5) is 30-50 r / m.

[0033] Furthermore, the mesh size of the sieve in step (2) is 150 mesh, and the mesh size of the sieve in step (4) is 200 mesh.

[0034] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0035] 1. The present invention is based on the Sophora flavescens root extract, Tribulus terrestris fruit extract, and Cornus officinalis fruit extract included in Yishudan, and is further compounded with Trollius chinensis extract, Lycium barbarum fruit extract, and Poria cocos sclerotium extract, so that the facial cream product prepared by the composition can inhibit the secretion of NO inflammatory mediators in vitro and neutralize the secretion of TNF-α inflammatory factors in vitro.

[0036] In the anti-photoaging test of human dermal fibroblasts, compared with the UVB irradiation group, the positive rate of β-galactosidase in human dermal fibroblasts in the test group using the cream containing the composition was reduced, and the type I collagen content in human dermal fibroblasts in the test group was significantly increased.

[0037] 2. The composition is composed of a combination of nasturtium extract, wolfberry fruit extract, Poria cocos sclerotium extract and Yishudan in a certain proportion. The multiple active ingredients have a mutual synergistic effect. Compared with the creams prepared with the same proportion of single active ingredients (Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, Comparative Example 3), the former has a better inhibitory effect on the secretion of NO inflammatory mediators and the secretion of TNF-α inflammatory factors in vitro. The former also has a better effect on increasing the content of type I collagen in human dermal fibroblasts. Moreover, the effects of inhibiting inflammatory mediators and inflammatory factors and promoting the growth of type I collagen are higher than the sum of the effects of the creams prepared with the same proportion of single active ingredients.

[0038] Therefore, the composition prepared by the present invention and cosmetics such as facial cream containing the composition have good anti-inflammatory, anti-photoaging and post-sun soothing effects, and also have the advantages of low irritation and high safety. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0039] The following will be combined with the embodiments of the present invention to clearly and completely describe the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0040] It should be particularly noted that the nasturtium extract, sophora flavescens root extract, tribulus terrestris fruit extract, cornus officinalis fruit extract, wolfberry fruit extract, and Poria cocos sclerotium extract described in the present invention can be directly purchased and used or extracted using methods known to those skilled in the art.

[0041] The nasturtium extract used in the embodiments of the present invention is obtained by the applicant. The specific extraction method is as follows: take an appropriate amount of dry nasturtium medicinal material, add 60-80% ethanol, reflux extraction at 80-90°C, decompress and concentrate the filtrate to a relative density of 1.1-1.3, and vacuum dry to obtain the nasturtium extract.

[0042] The wolfberry fruit extract used in the examples of the present invention was purchased from Xi'an Tianbao Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0043] The Poria cocos sclerotium extract used in the examples of the present invention was purchased from Wuhan Kemik Biopharmaceutical Technology Co., Ltd.

[0044] The sophora flavescens root extract, tribulus terrestris fruit extract, and cornus officinalis fruit extract used in the embodiments of the present invention are directly selected from a mixture of the trade name Shuyidan Sensysoothe, purchased from Guangzhou Miaosen Co., Ltd. Shuyidan is composed of butylene glycol, water, sophora flavescens root extract, tribulus terrestris fruit extract, and cornus officinalis fruit extract; in the following embodiments, according to the weight parts of Shuyidan, every 100 parts by weight include 1.5 to 6 parts of sophora flavescens root extract, 1 to 4 parts of tribulus terrestris fruit extract, 0.5 to 2 parts of cornus officinalis fruit extract, 2 to 6 parts of water, and 85 to 95 parts of butylene glycol. The preparation method of Shuyidan is recorded in WO2024169237A1.

[0045] The trade name of cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate used in the present invention is Olivem 1000, which is developed from natural olive chemistry and is an emulsifier that is compatible with various cosmetics and active ingredients in a wide pH range;

[0046] The trade name of cetyl palmitate / sorbitan palmitate / sorbitan olivate used in the present invention is LC, an emulsifier based on olive oil fatty acids;

[0047] The trade name of the hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer used in the present invention is SEPINOV TM WEO, a thickener, tolerates electrolytes in the pH range of 3-12;

[0048] The trade name of the phenoxyethanol / ethylhexylglycerin used in the present invention is euxyl PE 9010, which is a liquid preservative, the main components of which are 90% phenoxyethanol and 10% ethylhexylglycerin, and has an excellent preservative effect and can effectively resist Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold.

[0049] Embodiment 1~3:

[0050] A facial cream with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, made from the following raw materials by weight percentage:

[0051] Table 1 Composition and dosage of raw materials in Examples 1-3

[0052]

[0053]

[0054] In the above table, the sum of the weight parts of deionized water in component A and the weight parts of other raw materials in each component is 100 parts.

[0055] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned facial cream, comprising the following steps:

[0056] (1) Using deionized water, disodium EDTA, glycerin, and xanthan gum in A as the base solvent, stirring and heating to 79-83° C. in an emulsifying tank, dissolving the components until they are evenly dispersed, to obtain a mixture A;

[0057] (2) adding cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate, cetyl palmitate / sorbitan palmitate / sorbitan olivate, isononyl isononanoate, and avocado oil components in B to an oil phase pretreatment tank, stirring and heating to 80-85° C., dissolving until each component is evenly dispersed, filtering through a 150-mesh sieve and then transferring to an emulsification tank, keeping the temperature at 79-83° C., vacuum homogenizing (1500-2500 r / m) for 8-12 min, and continuing to stir (30-40 r / m) until the material is uniform after homogenization to obtain a mixture B;

[0058] (3) Pre-mixing the hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and butanediol in C, and then adding them to the mixture B obtained in step (2), vacuum homogenizing (1500-2500 r / m) for 10-12 min, stirring (30-40 r / m) until the material is uniform, and cooling to obtain a mixture AC;

[0059] (4) Mixture AC is cooled to 45-55° C., passed through a 200-mesh sieve, and added with nasturtium extract, wolfberry extract, Poria cocos sclerotium extract, Shuyidan, 1,3-propylene glycol, and deionized water components, and vacuum homogenized (1000-2000 r / m) for 3-5 min, stirred (30-50 r / m), and continued to cool after dispersion is complete to obtain mixture AD;

[0060] (5) The mixture AD is cooled to 35-40° C., and the phenoxyethanol / ethylhexylglycerin and 1,2-hexanediol in E are added to the mixture AD. The mixture is homogenized under vacuum (1000-2000 r / m) for 3-5 min, stirred (30-50 r / m) until uniform, and then cooled to room temperature to obtain a facial cream.

[0061] Comparative Example 1:

[0062] Compared with Example 1, the only difference is that the nasturtium extract and wolfberry extract in component D are replaced with an equal amount of pure water, and the other components and preparation methods are the same.

[0063] Comparative Example 2:

[0064] Compared with Example 1, the only difference is that in component D, the wolfberry fruit extract, the Poria cocos sclerotium extract, and the Shuyidan are replaced with an equal amount of pure water, and the other components and preparation methods are the same.

[0065] Comparative Example 3:

[0066] Compared with Example 1, the only difference is that in component D, the nasturtium extract, the Poria sclerotium extract, and the Shuyidan are replaced with an equal amount of pure water, and the other components and preparation methods are the same.

[0067] Comparative Example 4:

[0068] Compared with Example 1, the only difference is that the Trollius extract in component D is replaced by an equal amount of Centella asiatica extract, and the other components and preparation methods are the same.

[0069] Experimental Example 1: In vitro NO inflammatory mediator content determination experiment

[0070] This test example is measured according to the group standard T / FDCA007-2022 "Test method for determining the content of NO inflammatory mediators in lipopolysaccharide-induced macrophages RAW264.7 in vitro for the evaluation of the soothing effect of cosmetics". Specifically, the principle of bacterial lipopolysaccharide (LPS) inducing the macrophage line RAW264.7 to secrete the inflammatory mediator NO is used to evaluate the effect of the test substance in inhibiting NO secretion by measuring the difference in NO content after the action of different test substances. The specific evaluation indicators are NO content and NO inhibition rate. The NO content is calculated after determination using the NO kit, and the average value of the three replicate wells in each group is finally taken as the final NO content result.

[0071] The creams prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were weighed and dissolved in the solvent dimethyl sulfoxide, shaken and mixed thoroughly to prepare the test sample of Example 1, the test sample of Comparative Example 1, the test sample of Comparative Example 2, the test sample of Comparative Example 3, and the test sample of Comparative Example 4 with a dose of 250 μg / mL, which were used as test group a, test group b, test group c, test group d, and test group e of the efficacy test, respectively. In addition, the negative control group was given an equal amount of cell culture medium containing LPS, and the positive control group was given an equal amount of cell culture medium containing 100 μg / mL dexamethasone and LPS. Dexamethasone can significantly downregulate the activation of macrophages.

[0072] The results of cytotoxicity test showed that the cell survival rates of the positive control group and the test group were greater than 90%, and the test group product had no potential cytotoxicity within 250 μg / mL. The NO content and NO inhibition rate obtained by the comparative example and example product test are shown in Table 2.

[0073] Table 2 Results of the inhibition of NO secretion by the products of comparative examples and examples

[0074]

[0075] (Compared with the negative control group, *P<0.05, **P<0.01)

[0076] It can be seen from Table 2 that compared with the negative control group, the NO content in the positive control group, test group a and test group e decreased significantly and had extremely significant differences (P < 0.01), while the NO content in test group b, test group c and test group d decreased slightly; by comparing the NO inhibition rate, it can be found that the anti-inflammatory effect of test group a is significantly better than that of other test groups, and the sum of the NO inhibition rates of test group b, test group c and test group d is also less than that of test group a. It can be seen that the product corresponding to test group a has better anti-inflammatory and soothing effects.

[0077] Test Example 2: In vitro TNF-α inflammatory factor content determination experiment

[0078] This test example refers to the standard "T / SHRH 034-2021 Cosmetic Soothing Efficacy Test-In Vitro TNF-α Inflammatory Factor Content Determination of Lipopolysaccharide-Induced Macrophages RAW264.7 Test Method" to determine the soothing effect of the cream obtained in the example and the comparative example. Specifically, the principle of bacterial lipopolysaccharide (LPS) inducing the macrophage cell line RAW264.7 to secrete the inflammatory factor TNF-α is utilized. By measuring the difference in TNF-α content after the action of different test substances, the effect of the test substance in inhibiting TNF-α secretion is evaluated. The specific evaluation indicators are TNF-α content and TNF-α inhibition rate. The TNF-α content is calculated after determination by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), and finally the average value of 3 replicate wells in each group is taken as the final TNF-α content result.

[0079] The creams prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were weighed and dissolved in the solvent dimethyl sulfoxide, shaken and mixed thoroughly to prepare the test samples of Example 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, Comparative Example 3, and Comparative Example 4 with a dose of 250 μg / mL, which were used as test groups a, b, c, d, and e of the efficacy test. In addition, the negative control group was given an equal amount of cell culture medium containing LPS, and the positive control group was given an equal amount of cell culture medium containing 100 μg / mL dexamethasone and LPS. The results of the cytotoxicity test showed that the cell survival rates of the positive control group and the test group were both greater than 90%, and the test group products had no potential cytotoxicity within 250 μg / mL. The TNF-α content and TNF-α inhibition rate obtained by the detection of the comparative examples and the example products are shown in Table 3.

[0080] Table 3 Comparative Examples and Examples of Products Inhibiting TNF-α Secretion Results

[0081]

[0082] (Compared with the negative control group, *P<0.05, **P<0.01)

[0083] As can be seen from Table 3, compared with the negative control group, the TNF-α contents of the positive control group, test group a, and test group e were significantly decreased and had extremely significant differences (P < 0.01), while the TNF-a contents of test group b, test group c, and test group d did not decrease much; however, by comparing the TNF-α inhibition rate, it can be found that the anti-inflammatory effect of test group a is significantly better than that of other test groups, and the sum of the TNF-a inhibition rates of test group b, test group c, and test group d is also less than that of test group a. It can be seen that the product corresponding to test group a has better anti-inflammatory and soothing effects.

[0084] Test Example 3: Light aging test

[0085] Ultraviolet radiation is the main factor leading to exogenous skin aging. Medium-wave ultraviolet (UVB) radiation directly damages DNA and produces cell products such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and 6-4 photoproducts (6-4PP). Timely and rapid removal of cell products can reduce cell apoptosis and alleviate skin photodamage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[0086] 1. Safe dose screening

[0087] A certain number of human dermal fibroblasts (HSF) were seeded in a 96-well plate, usually 1×10 4 Cells / well, discard the stock solution after culturing for 24 hours, add different doses (150μg / mL, 200μg / mL, 250μg / mL, 300μg / mL, 350μg / mL, 400μg / mL, 450μg / mL, 500μg / mL) of the test sample of Example 1 (the preparation process refers to the steps of Test Example 1), 200μL per well, and set up a solvent control group. After continuing to culture for 24 hours, discard the culture medium, perform cytotoxicity detection, and calculate the cell survival rate. The results show that the test group product has no potential cytotoxicity within 500ug / ml.

[0088] 2. Establishment of aging model

[0089] Human dermal fibroblasts of passage 3 to 5 in logarithmic growth phase were used to prepare cell suspension, with a cell concentration of 1×10 5 / mL was inoculated in a 6-well culture plate. Using cell culture medium, the creams prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were prepared to prepare the test sample of Example 1, the test sample of Comparative Example 1, the test sample of Comparative Example 2, the test sample of Comparative Example 3, and the test sample of Comparative Example 4 with a dose of 250μg / mL to pre-treat HSF cells for 24h, and they were respectively used as test group a, test group b, test group c, test group d, and test group e of the efficacy test. Only cell culture medium was added to the control group and the UVB irradiation group.

[0090] Before UVB irradiation, the culture medium was discarded and washed with PBS buffer until colorless. A small amount of PBS was added to replace the culture medium to cover the cells. The 6-well plate was placed under UVB light with an irradiation dose of 30 mJ / cm 2 The control group was covered with tin foil and the irradiation time was 1 hour. After the irradiation, the PBS was discarded and new culture medium was added to continue culturing for 72 hours.

[0091] 3. Test methods

[0092] (1) β-galactosidase staining

[0093] The cells were stained with a β-galactosidase staining kit to detect the number of senescent cells in the culture medium after 72 hours of continuous culture after irradiation. After washing twice with PBS, the cells were fixed and stained according to the instructions.

[0094] (2) Detection of type I collagen content

[0095] The culture medium of the above five test groups, the control group and the UVB irradiation group was used as the detection object. At the same time, a positive control group was added in this step. The positive control group was 0.2 μg / ml growth factor TGFβ1. After continued culture for 72 hours after irradiation, the supernatant was collected in a sterile centrifuge tube, and the type I collagen content was detected according to the instructions of the COL-I ELISA kit.

[0096] 4. Test results

[0097] (1) β-galactosidase staining test

[0098] β-galactosidase is a marker of cell senescence, and its positive cells represent the number of senescent cells. The results of β-galactosidase staining test are shown in Table 4.

[0099] Table 4

[0100]

[0101]

[0102] Compared with the control group, the number of β-galactosidase-positive cells in the UVB irradiation group increased significantly, indicating that the cells showed aging characteristics, and the cell aging model was successfully established. Compared with the UVB irradiation group, the number of β-galactosidase-positive cells in the test group decreased significantly. By comparing the β-galactosidase positive rate, it can be found that the anti-photoaging effect of test group a is significantly better than that of other test groups. Therefore, it can be seen that the product corresponding to test group a has a better anti-photoaging effect.

[0103] (2) Collagen content test

[0104] Collagen is the main component of the dermis and the most abundant protein in the human body. It provides strength and support for the skin. Type I collagen is one of the main components of the dermal extracellular matrix. The test results of type I collagen content are shown in Table 5.

[0105] Table 5

[0106] Group Type Ⅰ collagen content (%) Control group 13.24 UVB irradiation group 9.57 TGFβ1 positive control group 48.79 Test group a (Example 1) 46.78 Test group b (Comparative example 1) 21.34 Test group c (comparative example 2) 12.74 Test group d (Comparative example 3) 10.87 Test group e (Comparative example 4) 32.12

[0107] Compared with the control group, the content of type I collagen in the UVB irradiation group decreased, and the photoaging model was successfully established. Compared with the UVB irradiation group, the content of type I collagen in each test group was significantly increased, and the content of type I collagen in test group a was similar to that in the TGFβ1 positive control group. Moreover, the content of type I collagen in test group a was much higher than the sum of the content of type I collagen in test groups b, c, and d, indicating that the product in test group a can significantly increase the content of type I collagen, and has the effects of anti-photoaging, firming skin, and reducing wrinkles.

[0108] Test Example 4: Anti-UV damage-soothing effect test

[0109] 1. Purpose of the test

[0110] This test example evaluates the after-sun soothing effect of the product of the present invention through a UV light-induced human skin damage model.

[0111] 2. Experimental plan

[0112] 30 volunteers aged 18 to 60 years old with skin types II to III (those with skin color ITA° value of the test site above 28°) were selected to participate in the test, and the test area was the back. Before the test, the EI value and a value of the test site skin of the subject were tested and recorded as the value before the test (T0), and then the back was irradiated with the Solar Light 601-300 sunlight ultraviolet simulation system to determine the minimum erythema dose MED of each volunteer. The two test areas were irradiated with high-dose ultraviolet rays once to complete the modeling. The measured value after irradiation was used as the initial value after modeling (T0'), and then the test sample prepared in Example 1 was smeared on a random area, and the smearing amount was 2.0±0.1mg / cm 2 , as the sample group, and the other area was not treated as the blank group. After applying the product for 30 minutes, D1, and D3, skin data were collected again to evaluate the soothing effect of the samples.

[0113] 3. Evaluation Metrics

[0114] Table 6 Evaluation indicators

[0115]

[0116] Skin erythema index EI value using red melanin skin detector MX 18 (C&K, Germany) test, the instrument is based on the principle of spectral absorption (RGB), by measuring the reflection of a specific wavelength of light on human skin to determine the skin erythema index. The instrument's measurement range is 0 to 999, the higher the measured value, the higher the erythema index EI value.

[0117] The skin color a value is tested using CL 400&MPA 10 (C&K, Germany). The Lab colorimetric system of this instrument reflects the skin color. It can not only reflect the black and white changes of the skin color, but also reflect the skin color problems such as yellowing of the skin. The larger the value, the more red the color is.

[0118] 4. Test results

[0119] The skin erythema index EI value and skin color a value of the sample group and the blank group tested in this test example are shown in Table 7, and the improvement rate of the skin erythema index EI value and skin color a value is shown in Table 8.

[0120] Table 7

[0121]

[0122] Table 8

[0123]

[0124] As can be seen from the table, after the sample group used the test product for 30 minutes, the skin erythema index EI value decreased. After using the test product for 3 days, the skin erythema index EI value decreased significantly, a decrease of 54.72% compared with before use. After the sample group used the test product for 30 minutes, the skin color a value decreased. After using the test product for 3 days, the skin color a value decreased significantly, a decrease of 41.15% compared with before use.

[0125] The applicant declares that the present invention uses the above-mentioned embodiments to illustrate the face cream with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects and the preparation method thereof, but the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments, that is, it does not mean that the present invention must rely on the above-mentioned embodiments to be implemented. Those skilled in the art should understand that any improvement of the present invention, equivalent replacement of individual raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary ingredients, selection of specific methods, etc., all fall within the protection scope and disclosure scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, characterized in that: The invention comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01 to 1 part of nasturtium flower extract, 0.01 to 1 part of wolfberry fruit extract, 0.01 to 1 part of tuckahoe sclerotium extract and 0.5 to 10 parts of Shuyidan.

2. A composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects according to claim 1, characterized in that: The invention comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-0.1 parts of nasturtium flower extract, 0.01-0.1 parts of wolfberry fruit extract, 0.01-0.1 parts of tuckahoe sclerotium extract, and 1-6 parts of Shuyidan; and / or, 1-6 parts of polyol and 1-5 parts of deionized water in parts by weight.

3. A composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects according to claim 2, characterized in that: The invention also comprises 4 to 5 parts of 1,3-propylene glycol and 2 to 3 parts of deionized water by weight.

4. The composition with anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects according to claim 1, characterized in that: The nasturtium extract is an ethanol aqueous solution extract of nasturtium, and the volume fraction of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution is 60-80%.

5. A facial cream, characterized in that: The composition is prepared from the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and auxiliary materials.

6. The facial cream according to claim 5, characterized in that The auxiliary material is selected from one or more of polyols, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, metal ion chelating agents, preservatives, pH regulators, and deionized water.

7. The facial cream according to claim 6, characterized in that The emulsifier is a composite emulsifier of cetyl palmitate / sorbitan palmitate / sorbitan olivate and cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate; The emollient is selected from one or more of avocado butter, phytosteryl isostearate, hydrogenated polydecene, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, isohexadecane, and cyclopentasiloxane; The thickener is a compound of an oil phase thickener and a water phase thickener, wherein the oil phase thickener is selected from one or more of pentaerythritol distearate, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, cetearyl alcohol, and beeswax; and the water phase thickener is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, carbomer, and hydroxyethyl cellulose. The metal ion chelating agent is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA, EDTA, and tetrasodium EDTA; The polyol is selected from one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, and hexylene glycol; The preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, chlorphenesin, methylparaben, p-hydroxyacetophenone, propylparaben, 1,2-hexanediol, and sorbitan octanoate.

8. A method for preparing the facial cream according to any one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) using deionized water, a metal ion chelating agent, a polyol, and an aqueous phase thickener as a base solvent, heating and stirring in an emulsifying tank at 79 to 83° C. to prepare a mixture A in which each component is evenly dispersed; (2) adding an emulsifier and an emollient to an oil phase pretreatment tank, heating and stirring at 80 to 85° C. until the components are dissolved and evenly dispersed, filtering after sieving, and heating in the emulsification tank of step (1) at 79 to 83° C., after sufficient vacuum homogenization treatment, stirring at a low speed to obtain a uniform mixture B; (3) pre-mixing the oil phase thickener and the polyol, and then adding them to the mixture B obtained in step (2); after sufficient vacuum homogenization, stirring at a low speed and cooling to obtain a uniform mixture AC; (4) cooling the mixture AC of step (3) to 45-55° C. and sieving, adding a composition having anti-photoaging and after-sun soothing effects, and after sufficient vacuum homogenization, stirring at a low speed and cooling to obtain a mixture AD; (5) Cooling the mixture AD in step (4) to 35-40° C., adding the preservative component to the mixture AD obtained in step (4), and after sufficient vacuum homogenization, stirring at a low speed and cooling to room temperature to obtain the facial cream.

9. The preparation method according to claim 8, characterized in that: The rotation speed of the vacuum homogenization treatment in step (2) and step (3) is 1500-2500 r / m, and the treatment time is 8-12 min; The rotation speed of the vacuum homogenization treatment in step (4) and step (5) is 1000-2000 r / m, and the treatment time is 3-5 min; The low-speed stirring speed of step (2), step (3), step (4) and step (5) is 30 to 50 r / m; The mesh number of the sieve in step (2) is 150 mesh; The mesh size of the sieve in step (4) is 200 meshes.

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