Preparation process of triacetate fabric

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation process of a triacetate fiber fabric, which comprises a weaving process and a dyeing and finishing process, the weaving process comprises the following steps: yarn hanging, warping (a tensioner is transformed, the tension is 3g), slashing (PVA slurry, the sizing percentage is 7%), re-beaming, ghatpot taking, drafting and denting, and weaving; the dyeing and finishing process comprises the following steps: connecting cloth, desizing (sodium carbonate desizing), dyeing (the cloth feeding amount is half of the total vat amount, a slow heating stepped heat preservation dyeing process is adopted, and heat preservation is performed at 125 DEG C for 30 minutes), washing, drying, in-process inspection, sizing (150 DEG C, 40 m / min) and finished inspection. The selection principle of the quantity of dyeing jars is that the putting quantity is half of the quantity of the jars, so that the scratch risk is reduced. According to the invention, the problems of broken warp, no alkali resistance, no high temperature resistance, non-uniform dark sensitive color dyeing, poor fastness, different colors, easy scratching and the like of the triacetate fiber are effectively improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of fabrics, in particular to a preparation process of triacetate fabrics. Background Art

[0002] Acetate fiber, also known as acetate fiber, is one of the earliest developed chemical fibers in the world. It is currently the second largest variety of regenerated cellulose fiber after viscose fiber. Triacetate fabric is a kind of artificial fiber fabric, the main component of which is cellulose acetate. Triacetate fiber is made of cellulose pulp as raw material, which is acetylated to form cellulose ester derivatives and then produced by dry spinning process. According to the degree of replacement of hydroxyl (-OH) in cellulose by acetyl (-COCH3), it is divided into triacetate cellulose (CTA) and diacetate cellulose (CDA).

[0003] The raw materials of triacetate woven fabrics are sustainable and environmentally friendly. The gradual replacement of traditional synthetic fibers by green fibers will become a future development trend.

[0004] Currently, triacetate fabrics on the market are very popular among consumers due to their excellent properties. The appearance and gloss of triacetate fabrics are similar to those of mulberry silk, and they feel soft, smooth and elastic. The drape is the same as that of mulberry silk, but they are stiffer than mulberry silk. They are easy to wash and dry, mildew-proof and anti-static, comfortable to the skin, and cool to wear. They are truly high-end fabrics.

[0005] However, triacetate fiber has relatively low strength and is not resistant to alkali and high temperature. The low strength makes the fabric easy to break during warping, increases weaving abnormalities, and leads to poor quality of the fabric. The alkali resistance requires the use of slurry to increase the strength of the fabric during weaving, and alkali is needed to remove debris and slurry before dyeing, forming a certain contradiction and requiring a balance. The high temperature resistance causes the fabric to have poor color fastness, uneven dyeing, different colors, easy scratches, easy laser printing, etc. when dyeing dark colors and sensitive colors. Therefore, most triacetate fibers are knitted at present, but the coil structure of knitted triacetate fiber fabrics is relatively loose. After being stretched by external forces or worn for a long time, it is easy to deform, resulting in the distortion of the clothing pattern and poor dimensional stability. In addition, the wear resistance of knitted triacetate fiber fabrics is poor, and it is easy to cause pilling and other phenomena, and the service life is relatively short.

[0006] In view of this, the present invention is developed by deeply considering the shortcomings and inconveniences of the existing triacetate fabrics, and actively researching, improving and trial-making to develop the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0007] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art, provide a preparation process of triacetate fiber fabric, and improve the problems of easy warp breakage, low color fastness, uneven dyeing and different colors in the weaving and dyeing of the existing triacetate fiber fabric.

[0008] In order to achieve the above object, the solution of the present invention is:

[0009] A preparation process of triacetate fiber fabric includes a weaving process and a dyeing and finishing process, wherein the weaving process includes the following steps:

[0010] Step A1, 50D-75D triacetate and 20D-30D polyester are selected for warp yarn and twisted in parallel, with a twist of 400-450 twists;

[0011] Step A2, warping: the warp yarn is wound into a roll and warped with a tensioner, the tension of the tensioner is 3g;

[0012] Step A3, sizing: passing the warp yarn through PVA sizing agent with a sizing rate of 7%;

[0013] Step A4, combining the yarn heads after sizing into a weaving shaft;

[0014] Step A5, weaving-threading and buckling: combing the warp yarn on the weaving beam and threading it on the reed;

[0015] Step A6, weaving: weave the warp yarn and the weft yarn into a grey cloth, the weft yarn is 50D-75D polyester two-component yarn, the density of the warp yarn is 160T-180T, and the density of the weft yarn is 75T-80T;

[0016] The dyeing and finishing process includes the following steps:

[0017] Step B1, joining fabrics: sew the required fabrics in certain batches;

[0018] Step B2, desizing: desizing the grey cloth in a desizing machine, using a soda ash desizing formula for desizing treatment, the desizing formula is 0.5g / L soda ash, 2g refining agent, 23g desizing agent, and the temperature is 95°C;

[0019] Step B3, dyeing: put the desized triacetate blended fabric into the dyeing vat of the overflow dyeing machine, and the amount put into the vat is half of the full vat amount;

[0020] Step B4, washing-drying: washing the surface of the dyed fabric, and then drying it into a semi-finished product;

[0021] Step B5, mid-term inspection: inspect the quality of semi-finished products;

[0022] Step B6, shaping: shaping the inspected fabric;

[0023] Step B7, finished product inspection: inspect the fabric quality of the finished product.

[0024] Furthermore, a high-precision tension sensor is installed in the tensioner to monitor the tension of the warp yarn in real time and accurately to ensure that its tension is controlled at 3g. The tensioner is connected to the speed control system of the warping machine to achieve coordinated control of the warping speed and tension. When the tensioner detects an abnormal change in the warp tension, it can send a signal to the warping machine to adjust the warping speed. For example, when the warp tension suddenly increases and approaches the critical value of warp breakage, the warping machine can automatically reduce the warping speed, and then gradually increase the speed after the tension returns to normal, which can effectively avoid warp breakage caused by sudden changes in tension.

[0025] Furthermore, a high-precision tension sensor is installed in the tensioner of step A2, and the tensioner is connected to the speed control system of the warping machine to achieve coordinated control of the warping speed and tension. When the tensioner detects an abnormal change in the warp tension, it sends a signal to the warping machine to adjust the warping speed.

[0026] Furthermore, in step A1, the twist of the warp yarn is 400-450 twists, the warp yarn form is FDY fiber, and the warp yarn density is 160T-180T, so that the structure of the fabric is tighter.

[0027] Further, in step B3, the dye formula is disperse dye 4%, chelate dispersant 0.5g / l, leveling agent 1g / l, pH value 5, and softener 2g / l is added to the dye vat.

[0028] Further, in step B3, the dyeing process is heated to 50°C and kept for 10 min, 60°C and kept for 10 min at a heating rate of 0.5°C / min, and heated to 80°C and kept for 10 min, and 125°C and kept for 30 min at a heating rate of 1.0°C / min. After the insulation is completed, the temperature is lowered to 75°C at a rate of 1°C / min.

[0029] Furthermore, the setting temperature of step B6 is 150° C., and the setting time is 40 m / min.

[0030] Furthermore, in step B4, the washing is performed by washing with a reducing cleaning agent and washing with water.

[0031] After adopting the above structure, compared with the existing technology, the advantage of the triacetate fiber fabric of the present invention is that the triacetate fiber fabric is prepared by weaving. Compared with the existing knitted triacetate fiber fabric, the woven fabric is formed by warp yarns and weft yarns interwoven perpendicularly to each other, has a compact structure, has high stability, and the made clothes are not easy to deform and can maintain a good version; the warp and weft yarns are closely interwoven, the surface is relatively flat and smooth, and a more refined appearance texture can be presented, and the glossiness of the cloth surface is also good; the structure of the woven triacetate fiber fabric makes it have good wear resistance, can withstand daily friction and wear, is not easy to have problems such as pilling, and has good durability. During the preparation process, the tensioner is modified and the warping breakage is less than 1 time / 10,000 meters under the tension of 3g, which is effectively improved; when the twist is 400Tex-450Tex, the fiber strength, gloss and feel are very good; PVA sizing agent is used for sizing, and soda ash desizing formula process is used for desizing, which not only achieves the desizing effect but also ensures the fiber strength; the cloth feeding amount is selected to be half of the total cylinder amount to reduce abrasions; the dyeing pH value is 5.0, and a slow heating step-type insulation process is used, with a maximum dyeing temperature of 125°C, which reduces the generation of laser marks and ensures fastness and discoloration. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0032] Figure 1 It is the dyeing rate of the desized grey cloth at different pH values.

[0033] Figure 2 It is a dyeing temperature table of triacetate blended fabric of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0034] In order to further explain the technical solution of the present invention, the present invention is described in detail below through specific embodiments.

[0035] The invention discloses a preparation process of triacetate fabric, which includes a weaving process and a dyeing and finishing process. The weaving process includes the following steps:

[0036] Step A1, hanging yarn: hang the warp yarn in a certain order to facilitate subsequent warping; refer to Table 1, because the higher the twist of the fiber, the higher the density of the fiber, but the darker the glossiness, and the high twist of the fiber will reduce the light and drape advantages of triacetate fiber. The warp yarn of the present invention selects 50D-75D triacetate and 20D-30D polyester for parallel twisting. The triacetate fiber has a soft and natural luster, and the polyester fiber also has a certain glossiness. After parallel twisting, the luster of the two fibers merges with each other, making the luster of the fabric brighter and more uniform, with a higher texture, and can improve the visual effect and grade of the yarn. FDY fiber with a twist of 400-450 twists can not only make the yarn strong and overcome the abnormal warp breakage in the weaving process, but also increase the warp density during weaving, thereby improving the silk-like gloss and drape of the fabric; FDY has a better gloss than DTY, and the warp density is 160T-180T. This density can make the structure of the fabric tighter, and the tight structure can reduce the erosion of alkali solution and high temperature on the fiber, and improve the alkali resistance and high temperature resistance of the fabric.

[0037] Table 1 is the parameter table of triacetate fiber with different twists

[0038]

[0039] Step A2, warping: winding the warp yarn into a roll (warp head);

[0040] The tensioner is improved, and a high-precision tension sensor is installed in the tensioner to monitor the tension of the warp yarn in real time and accurately to ensure that its tension is controlled at 3g. Furthermore, the tensioner is connected to the speed control system of the warping machine to achieve coordinated control of the warping speed and tension. When the tensioner detects an abnormal change in the warp tension, it can send a signal to the warping machine to adjust the warping speed. For example, when the warp tension suddenly increases and approaches the critical value of warp breakage, the warping machine can automatically reduce the warping speed, and then gradually increase the speed after the tension returns to normal, which can effectively avoid warp breakage caused by sudden changes in tension.

[0041] During the warping process, the stability of the warping tension directly affects the overall internal stress of the grey fabric and the quality of the grey fabric. Too much tension will stretch the warp yarn to a certain extent, affecting the overall shrinkage of the grey fabric and easily causing abnormal warp yarn breakage. The present invention evaluates the effect of the warping effect when the tension is 5g, 4g, and 3g while modifying the tensioner. It is found that when the tension drops to 3g, the weaving efficiency and abnormal warp breakage are greatly improved, which can solve the problem of warp breakage and improve the quality of the fabric.

[0042] Table 2 is the yarn breaking parameters under different tensions

[0043] Warping tension 5g 4g 3g Yarn break times / 10,000 meters 24-27 13-16 <1

[0044] Step A3, sizing: the warp yarn is sized with PVA slurry, with a sizing rate of 7% PVA, so as to further improve the strength of the warp yarn to facilitate subsequent weaving.

[0045] The yarn twisted in step A1 (50D-75D triacetate and 20D-30D polyester twisted in parallel) was subjected to sizing tests with different sizes, and Tables 3, 4 and 5 were obtained.

[0046] Referring to Tables 3, 4 and 5, by comparing the desizing effects and fabric strength changes of A / C (polyacrylate, an oily slurry that requires strong alkali for desizing) slurries with different sizing rates at different NaOH (strong alkali) concentrations and the desizing effects and fabric strength changes of PVA slurries at different Na2CO3 (soda ash) concentrations, it is found that there is residual slurry on the yarn on A / C with different NaOH solubility; therefore, the present invention selects PVA slurry for sizing, and when the sizing rate is 7%, the number of broken warps is the least, thereby further improving the problem of broken warps.

[0047] Table 3 shows the desizing effect and fabric strength change of A / C sizing with different sizing rates at different NaOH concentrations.

[0048]

[0049] Table 4 shows the desizing effect and fabric strength change of PVA slurry at different Na2CO3 concentrations

[0050]

[0051]

[0052] Table 5 is the yarn breaking parameters of PVA with different sizing rates

[0053] Sizing rate PVA 5％ 7％ 10％ Yarn break times / 10,000 meters 3-4 ＜1 ＜1

[0054] Step A4, combining the yarn heads after sizing into a weaving shaft;

[0055] Step A5, weaving-threading and buckling: combing the warp yarn on the weaving beam and threading it on the reed for subsequent weaving;

[0056] Step A6, weaving: warp yarn and weft yarn are woven into grey cloth according to a certain organizational structure, and the weft yarn is 50D-75D polyester bicomponent yarn, and the weft density is 75T-80T. Since the boiling shrinkage of the bicomponent yarn is inconsistent, the shrinkage is inconsistent at high temperature, so a certain terry loop can be formed on the surface of the fabric, making it have a certain cotton-like effect. At the same time, due to the different shrinkage of the two fibers, the fabric has elasticity.

[0057] The dyeing and finishing process includes the following steps:

[0058] Step B1, joining fabrics: sew the required fabrics in certain batches;

[0059] Step B2, desizing: desizing the grey cloth in a desizing machine. As shown in Table 3, Table 4 and Table 5, the desizing effect is best when the Na2CO3 concentration is 0.5g / l. Since acetate fiber is prone to saponification under alkaline conditions, that is, it is not alkali-resistant, the present invention selects the desizing under the condition of 0.5g / l, which can not only remove the impurities and sizing agent on the cloth surface, but also has basically no change on the saponification degree of acetate fiber.

[0060] Step B3, dyeing: put the desized triacetate blended fabric into the dye vat of the overflow dyeing machine, the amount of the vat is half of the whole vat, add water to the required amount while putting the fabric in to reduce the risk of scratches, add dyeing auxiliaries into the dye bath, and then add the dye used into the dye vat according to the formula, the dye formula is disperse dye 4%, chelate dispersant 0.5g / l, leveling agent 1g / l, pH value is 5, softener 2g / l. Since triacetate fiber and polyester fiber have different adsorption capacities for disperse dyes, competitive dyeing problems occur, triacetate fiber is faster than polyester fiber, resulting in fabric heterochromatic problems, currently some research focuses on two-bath dyeing, that is, dyeing with cationic disperse dyes and conventional dyes separately, this method has a certain improvement effect on fiber heterochromaticity, but the environmental problems and energy consumption caused, water resource waste is also quite severe. Therefore, the present invention studies the one-bath dyeing method and disperse dyes thereof, selects pyridine disperse dyes, and the chemical structure of the pyrimidine disperse dyes contains amide bonds (-CONH-) and other compounds that can be hydrolyzed to form negative ions OH - The nitrogen atom in the pyridine disperse dyes is easily combined with hydrogen ions in aqueous solution to generate OH - In addition, since the -OH on triacetate cellulose is easily dissociated into O - When dyeing, under the condition of pH 5, the N atom and the alkaline group can be hydrolyzed into OH with negative ions. - , and the O dissociated from triacetic acid itself - The simultaneous action of the three ions has a certain inhibitory effect on the coloring of triacetate fiber, so that the adsorption effect of triacetate fiber and polyester fiber on dyes is equivalent, thereby improving the consistency of fabric quality.

[0061] In the dyeing process, the temperature is increased to 50°C and kept for 10 minutes and 60°C for 10 minutes at a heating rate of 0.5°C / min, and the temperature is increased to 80°C for 10 minutes and 125°C for 30 minutes at a heating rate of 1.0°C / min. After the insulation is completed, the temperature is lowered to 75°C at 1°C / min for sampling and color matching. The dyeing of the present invention adopts a slow heating and step-by-step insulation method to ensure the uniformity of dyeing and the color fastness of dyeing.

[0062] See also Figure 1 , Figure 2 As shown in Table 6, since triacetate fiber is not alkali-resistant and has poor high temperature resistance, after being combined with polyester, dyeing under alkaline conditions will affect the strength of the fabric. The present invention studies the changes in the strength, gloss and dyeing performance of the fabric in the pH range of 4-10 and the dyeing temperature of 125°C, and finds that the best effect is achieved when the pH is 5 and the dyeing temperature is 125°C.

[0063] If traditional dyeing temperature control is used, the strength of the fabric will be greatly reduced, and the gloss will also be lost. If the dyeing is not carried out at a higher temperature, its color fastness and color uniformity will also be relatively poor. Based on the low dyeing temperature of triacetate fiber, in order to ensure the uniformity and color fastness of dyeing, the Figure 2 The dyeing curve is dyed.

[0064] Table 6 is the parameter table of triacetate blended fabric at different pH values

[0065]

[0066] Step B4, washing and drying: clean the surface of the dyed fabric, wash it with a reducing detergent, and then dry it into a semi-finished product;

[0067] Step B5, mid-term inspection: inspect the quality of semi-finished products;

[0068] Step B6, shaping: To maintain the flatness of the fabric surface and the stability of the fabric shrinkage or to give the fabric functionality (such as water repellency, hygroscopicity, antistatic property), the shaping temperature is selected to be 150°C, and the shaping time is 40m / min. Since triacetate fiber is not resistant to high temperature, referring to Table 7, the present invention compares the effects of heat shaping in the range of 130°C-170°C on the fabric surface quality, strength performance and shrinkage, etc. As can be seen from Table 7, when operating at 150°C, the shaping effect is the best.

[0069] Table 7 is a parameter table of the finished fabric of the present invention for shaping at different temperatures

[0070]

[0071] Step B7, finished product inspection: inspect the fabric quality of the finished product.

[0072] The invention can improve the problems of low strength, acid and alkali resistance, high temperature resistance, difficulty in making dark sensitive colors, discoloration, easy scratches, etc. of triacetate fabric. In weaving, the tensioner is improved and the tension is selected to be 3g for warping and making the warp head, the sizing rate is set to 7%, and the PVA sizing material is selected to size the yarn and weave the grey cloth; in dyeing and finishing, the soda ash desizing formula and process desizing are selected, the 150℃, 40m / min pre-setting process, the cloth feeding amount is controlled to be half of the total cylinder amount to reduce scratches, the dyeing pH value is 5.0, the dyeing process is heated to 50℃ for 10min and 60℃ for 10min at a heating rate of 0.5℃ / min, and then heated to 80℃ for 10min and 125℃ for 30min at a heating rate of 1℃ / min to complete the dyeing, and the reduction cleaning agent is used for reduction cleaning, and the setting is made at 150℃ and 40m / min. It effectively solves the problems in weaving and dyeing and finishing of triacetate fabrics.

[0073] The above embodiments do not limit the product form and style of the present invention. Any appropriate changes or modifications made by ordinary technicians in the relevant technical field should be deemed to be within the patent scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A preparation process of triacetate fiber fabric, comprising a weaving process and a dyeing and finishing process, characterized in that: The weaving process includes the following steps: Step A1, the warp yarns are 50D-75D triacetate and 20D-30D polyester and twisted in parallel, with a twist of 400-450 twists; Step A2, warping: the warp yarn is wound into a roll and warped with a tensioner, the tension of the tensioner is 3g; Step A3, sizing: passing the warp yarn through PVA sizing agent with a sizing rate of 7%; Step A4, combining the yarn heads after sizing into a weaving shaft; Step A5, weaving-threading and buckling: combing the warp yarn on the weaving beam and threading it on the reed; Step A6, weaving: weave the warp yarn and the weft yarn into a grey cloth, the weft yarn is 50D-75D polyester two-component yarn, the density of the warp yarn is 160T-180T, and the density of the weft yarn is 75T-80T; The dyeing and finishing process includes the following steps: Step B1, joining fabrics: sew the required fabrics in certain batches; Step B2, desizing: desizing the grey cloth in a desizing machine, using a soda ash desizing formula for desizing treatment; Step B3, dyeing: put the desized triacetate blended fabric into the dyeing vat of the overflow dyeing machine, and the amount put into the vat is half of the full vat amount; Step B4, washing-drying: washing the surface of the dyed fabric, and then drying it into a semi-finished product; Step B5, mid-term inspection: inspect the quality of semi-finished products; Step B6, shaping: shaping the inspected fabric; Step B7, finished product inspection: inspect the fabric quality of the finished product.

2. The process for preparing a triacetate fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step A1, the warp yarn is in the form of FDY fiber.

3. The process for preparing a triacetate fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The tensioner of step A2 is equipped with a high-precision tension sensor, which is connected to the speed control system of the warping machine to achieve coordinated control of the warping speed and tension. When the tensioner detects an abnormal change in the warp tension, it sends a signal to the warping machine to adjust the warping speed.

4. The process for preparing a triacetate fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step B2, a desizing recipe with a Na2CO3 concentration of 0.5 g / l was selected.

5. The process for preparing a triacetate fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step B3, the dye formula is disperse dye 4%, chelate dispersant 0.5g / l, leveling agent 1g / l, pH value 5, and softener 2g / l is added into the dye vat.

6. The process for preparing a triacetate fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step B3, the dyeing process is heated to 50°C at a heating rate of 0.5°C / min and kept warm for 10 minutes, 60°C for 10 minutes, and heated to 80°C at a heating rate of 1.0°C / min for 10 minutes and 125°C for 30 minutes. After the insulation is completed, the temperature is lowered to 75°C at a rate of 1°C / min.

7. The process for preparing a triacetate fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The setting temperature of step B6 is 150° C. and the setting time is 40 m / min.

8. The process for preparing a triacetate fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step B4, the washing is performed by washing with a reducing cleaning agent and washing with water.

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