Preparation method of wool-polyester viscose piece dyed weft elastic tweed fabric

Abstract

The invention provides a preparation method of wool-polyester viscose weft-dyed elastic tweed fabric, and belongs to the technical field of fabric preparation. Warp yarn and weft yarn are prepared through multiple processes, the warp yarn is formed by mixing wool, polyester and viscose in proportion, and the weft yarn is added with spandex and is of a core-spun structure; preparing an initial product, namely weaving warp and weft yarns in a two-up and two-down manner to form a twill double-layer structure through processes such as warping, threading, weaving and the like in sequence; post-treatment: carrying out double boiling, washing, dyeing, separating, shaping and the like to finally obtain a wool-polyester viscose piece dyed weft elastic tweed fabric finished product. The finished product fabric prepared by the preparation method of the polyester-viscose piece dyed weft elastic tweed fabric not only has excellent hand feeling, comfort, elasticity and color fastness, but also has good anti-pilling, anti-wrinkle and anti-tear properties, and the durability and long-term use value of the fabric are ensured.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of fabric textile technology, in particular to a method for preparing a wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric. Background Art

[0002] In the current textile industry, with the advent of the era of fast-moving consumer goods, the piece-dyeing process used in wool worsted products is favored by garment factories, especially live e-commerce pre-sale products, because its delivery time is nearly 80% shorter than that of the traditional strip-dyeing process. However, the common wool-polyester piece-dyeing products in the market are facing serious homogeneity problems, which has led to the gradual weakening of the competitiveness of these products in the market. The traditional piece-dyeing market occupies a large number of pure wool and wool-polyester piece-dyeing fabrics, lacking fast-reversing sticky fabrics. Most wool-polyester piece-dyeing products can no longer meet consumers' growing demand for personalization and high quality, and it is difficult to provide differentiated market value.

[0003] In order to improve the competitiveness of products, the market has put forward higher requirements for textile fabrics with softer and fuller feel. Viscose fiber has gradually become a favorite textile material for some target customer groups due to its soft feel and full texture. However, the existing wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyeing process has not fully combined the advantages of viscose fiber, and there is a lack of high-quality wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyeing fabrics, especially wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyeing products that can meet personalized needs and improve the feel and fullness.

[0004] For example, a Chinese patent document discloses a highly elastic, light, soft, wool-added polyester-viscose fabric, application number: CN202122170481.9; a highly elastic, light, soft, wool-added polyester-viscose fabric, woven from warp and weft; the warp is spun after twisting two single yarns in parallel, and the single yarn is spun by vortex spinning of cationic fiber and viscose fiber; the weft is spun after twisting two single yarns and spandex yarns in parallel in the S direction, and the single yarn is spun by ring spinning of cationic fiber, viscose fiber and wool fiber. Spandex yarn is added to the weft, so that the weft direction of the fabric has elasticity, and twisting after adding spandex yarn makes the single yarn more elastic; the single yarn of the weft contains wool fiber, and when the wool fiber, cationic fiber and viscose fiber are spun together, the end of the wool fiber will be exposed outside the yarn, so that when the weft and warp are woven into a fabric, the surface of the fabric has a wooly feel and a comfortable touch, and at the same time, the fabric can reflect the performance of the wool fiber.

[0005] In the above technical scheme, the spinning process is relatively simplified, and the warp and weft yarns are mainly prepared by vortex spinning and ring spinning technology of cationic fiber, viscose fiber and wool fiber, focusing on the addition of spandex yarn in the weft and the twist control of the weft. However, there is no detailed optimization description for many key links involved in the spinning process, such as the initial needle combing operation and the needle combing operation before blending, and there is a lack of precise control of multiple needle combing and twist. The weaving process is relatively simple, mainly relying on the paralleling, twisting and basic weaving technology of the warp and weft yarns. Although spandex yarns are added to the weft to enhance the elasticity, it does not involve the specific optimization of the weaving structure or how to enhance the stability of the yarn and the structural strength of the fabric during the knitting process.

[0006] Therefore, there is an urgent need for a new method for preparing wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric, which can effectively solve the problems of product homogeneity, insufficient market competitiveness and under-utilization of the unique advantages of viscose fibers in the prior art, so as to provide a more competitive, differentiated and high-quality wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed product. Summary of the invention

[0007] The purpose of the present invention is to solve the above problems in the prior art and to provide a method for preparing wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric.

[0008] The object of the present invention can be achieved by the following technical scheme: A method for preparing a wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric, the method for preparing a wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric comprising the following steps:

[0009] S1 Spinning: The spinning process is used to prepare warp yarn and weft yarn respectively; the spinning process includes the following specific steps: raw material wool splicing operation, wool blending operation, initial needle combing operation, fine needle combing operation, needle combing operation before blending, needle combing blending operation, needle combing operation before spinning, first spinning operation, last spinning operation, roving preparation operation, spun yarn preparation operation, spun yarn winding operation, high-speed doubling operation, doubling operation and yarn steaming operation;

[0010] In the process of warp yarn preparation, the raw materials used are wool, polyester and viscose, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose is 30-80:10-30:10-30;

[0011] In the process of preparing the weft yarn, the raw materials used are wool, polyester, viscose and spandex, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose: spandex is 30-80:10-30:10-30:6-10; the weft yarn adopts a spandex core-spun structure;

[0012] S2: preparing the initial product: the warp yarn and the weft yarn are sequentially subjected to warping, threading, weaving, grading and initial product shaping to obtain the initial fabric product; the structure of the initial fabric product is a twill double-layer structure prepared by a two-up and two-down method in the weaving process;

[0013] S3 post-processing: the initial fabric is subjected to the first double boiling operation, the new washing operation, the second double boiling operation, the first unbending operation, the first drying operation, the intermediate shaping operation, the dyeing operation, the second unbending operation, the lining boiling operation, the second drying operation, the intermediate inspection operation, the repair operation, the brushing operation, the shearing operation, the rolling drying operation and the continuous steaming shaping operation to obtain the finished wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric;

[0014] In the dyeing operation, the one-bath multi-step wool-polyester-viscose multi-fiber piece dyeing process is adopted. According to the operation procedures, the dyeing operation includes viscose dyeing operation, washing operation, soaping operation and wool-polyester-viscose dyeing operation.

[0015] In step S1, in the initial needle combing operation, two needle combing operations are set, namely, the first initial needle combing operation and the second initial needle combing operation.

[0016] In step S1, in the needle combing operation before blending, two needle combing operations are set, namely the first needle combing operation before blending and the second needle combing operation before blending.

[0017] In step S1, in the needle combing operation before spinning, according to the operation sequence, there are a first needle combing operation, a second needle combing operation, a third needle combing operation and a fourth needle combing operation.

[0018] In step S1, in the spinning process, the requirements are as follows: the amount of crude oil used is controlled at 40-60 ml / min; the twist of single yarn is 760-800 / Z; the twist of ply yarn is 880-920 / S.

[0019] In step S2, during the weaving operation, the odd-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted downward by 3-4 mm relative to the reference position, and the even-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted upward by 3-4 mm relative to the reference position.

[0020] In step S3, in the viscose dyeing operation, the raw materials, raw material dosage and bath ratio used are set as follows: dye: jasper red NF-3B, 0.025%-0.035%; jasper yellow NF-3R, 0.00675%-0.00715%; jasper blue NF-BN, 0.25%-0.3%; auxiliaries: soda ash, 0.4-0.45g / L; sodium sulfate, 20-22g / L; bath ratio: 1:20-22.

[0021] In the viscose dyeing operation, the settings are as follows: initial temperature: 30-32°C; order of adding sodium sulfoxide and soda ash: sodium sulfoxide is added in 3 times: 1 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, 2 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, and 3 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide are added in sequence, with an interval of 10-12 minutes; after all the sodium sulfoxide is added, add 1 / 10 weight of soda ash, run idle for 5-6 minutes, raise the temperature to 60-62°C at a heating rate of 1-1.5°C / min, and then add 2 / 10 weight of soda ash; after 15-18 minutes, add the remaining 7 / 10 weight of soda ash.

[0022] In step S3, in the wool, polyester and viscose dyeing operation, normal temperature dyeing, medium temperature dyeing and high temperature heat preservation operation are carried out in sequence. In the dyeing process, the raw materials and raw material dosages used are set as follows: normal temperature dyeing: temperature: 40-42°C Dye: weak acid brilliant blue R-AWL, 0.008%-0.009%; Agarset red N-3B, 0.002%-0.003%; auxiliaries: FFA, 1-1.1g / L; sodium sulfate, 6-7%; SCT, 1%-1.2%; HAC, 1%-1.2%; ammonium sulfate, 4%-4.4%;

[0023] Medium temperature dyeing: temperature: 60-63℃; dye: disperse red 3B, 0.003%-0.0035%; disperse blue 2BLN, 0.087%-0.091%; auxiliaries: high temperature leveling agent, 1%-1.1%; carrier, 1%-1.1%;

[0024] In the high temperature insulation operation, the temperature is 98-100℃ and the insulation time is 30-35 minutes.

[0025] In step S1, the wool used is specifically 66S Merino wool, the polyester used is specifically 2D polyester, and the viscose used is specifically 3D viscose.

[0026] In step S3, in the intermediate setting operation, the setting temperature is 195-200°C.

[0027] Compared with the prior art, the preparation method of the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric has the following beneficial effects:

[0028] 1. Excellent hand feel and comfort: The raw material ratio used in the present invention is wool, polyester, viscose and spandex, especially the addition of viscose fiber, which makes the finished fabric feel softer and fuller, and has higher comfort. Compared with traditional wool-polyester piece-dyed products, the softness and elasticity of the fabric are greatly improved, which can meet the demand of modern consumers for high-quality fabrics.

[0029] 2. Excellent dyeing effect and stable color fastness: The present invention adopts a one-bath multi-step wool-polyester-viscose multi-fiber piece dyeing process. By accurately controlling the amount and ratio of raw materials in the dyeing process (such as using dyes such as jasper red and jasper yellow, as well as auxiliary agents such as soda ash and sodium sulfate), it can ensure the uniform adsorption of dyes on different fibers during the dyeing process and make the dyeing effect more stable. Through the three-stage dyeing process of normal temperature, medium temperature and high temperature, the color fastness of the finished fabric is significantly improved, effectively avoiding the problems of color difference and fading.

[0030] 3. High elasticity and long-lasting shape retention: The spandex core-spun weft yarn structure improves the elasticity of the fabric, giving it better stretchability and recovery, ensuring that the fabric can maintain its shape during use and is not easily deformed. Whether worn, washed or used for a long time, the elasticity and comfort of the fabric can be maintained for a long time, greatly enhancing the durability and practicality of the fabric.

[0031] 4. Excellent wrinkle resistance and pilling resistance: By optimizing the spinning process and post-processing process, the fabric of the present invention exhibits good wrinkle resistance and pilling resistance. After multiple washings and daily wear, the fabric is not prone to pilling, maintains a smooth appearance and comfort for a long time, and prolongs the service life of the clothing.

[0032] 5. High production efficiency and high quality stability: By optimizing the needle combing procedure in the spinning process and the refined process design, the present invention improves production efficiency while ensuring the stability and consistency of the fabric. The fine operation of multiple processes makes the quality control of the fabric in the production process more stringent, and the final product has a consistent high quality standard.

[0033] 6. Good market adaptability: The wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric of the present invention can meet the needs of different markets and consumers with its excellent softness, fullness, elasticity and color fastness. Whether in the traditional high-end clothing field or the emerging live broadcast e-commerce market, it can provide differentiated products and enhance market competitiveness.

[0034] In summary, the preparation method of the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric of the present invention has significant advantages in terms of softness, fullness, dyeing effect, production efficiency, market competitiveness, etc., can effectively meet the market demand for high-quality, high-value-added textiles, and bring greater economic benefits to enterprises. The finished fabric prepared by the preparation method of the polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric of the present invention has the characteristics of warm hand feel, elasticity, good drape and color fastness, and also has good anti-pilling, anti-wrinkle and anti-tearing properties, thereby ensuring the durability and long-term use value of the fabric. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0035] Figure 1 The figure is a schematic diagram of the viscose dyeing process in the first specific embodiment.

[0036] Figure 2 The figure is a schematic diagram of the wool, polyester and viscose dyeing process in the first specific embodiment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0037] The following are specific embodiments of the present invention and the accompanying drawings to further describe the technical solution of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

[0038] Embodiment 1:

[0039] A method for preparing a wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric, the method comprising the following steps:

[0040] S1 Spinning: The spinning process is used to prepare warp yarn and weft yarn respectively; the spinning process includes the following specific steps: raw material wool splicing operation, wool blending operation, initial needle combing operation, fine needle combing operation, needle combing operation before blending, needle combing blending operation, needle combing operation before spinning, first spinning operation, last spinning operation, roving preparation operation, spun yarn preparation operation, spun yarn winding operation, high-speed doubling operation, doubling operation and yarn steaming operation;

[0041] In the process of warp yarn preparation, the raw materials used are wool, polyester and viscose, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose is 50:30:20;

[0042] In the process of preparing the weft yarn, the raw materials used are wool, polyester, viscose and spandex, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose: spandex is 47:28:18:7; the weft yarn adopts a spandex core-spun structure;

[0043] The specific type of wool used is 66S Merino wool, the specific type of polyester used is 2D polyester, the specific type of viscose used is 3D viscose, and the spandex is Lycra spandex.

[0044] In the initial needle combing operation, two needle combing programs are set, namely the first initial needle combing operation and the second initial needle combing operation.

[0045] In the needle combing operation before blending, two needle combing programs are set, namely the first needle combing operation before blending and the second needle combing operation before blending.

[0046] The needle combing operation before weaving includes the first needle combing operation, the second needle combing operation, the third needle combing operation and the fourth needle combing operation according to the operation procedure.

[0047] In the spinning process, the requirements are as follows: the amount of crude oil used is controlled at 50 ml / min; the twist of single yarn is 780 / Z; the twist of ply yarn is 900 / S.

[0048] S2: Prepare the initial product: The warp yarn and the weft yarn are sequentially subjected to warping, threading, weaving, grading and initial product shaping to obtain the initial fabric product; the structure of the initial fabric product is a twill double-layer structure prepared by a two-up and two-down method during the weaving process.

[0049] During weaving operation, the odd-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted downward by 3 mm relative to the reference position, and the even-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted upward by 3 mm relative to the reference position.

[0050] S3 post-processing: the initial fabric product is subjected to the first double boiling operation, new washing operation, second double boiling operation, first unbending operation, first drying operation, intermediate shaping operation, dyeing operation, second unbending operation, lining boiling operation, second drying operation, intermediate inspection operation, repair operation, brushing operation, shearing operation, rolling and drying operation and continuous steaming and shaping operation in sequence to obtain the finished wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric product.

[0051] In the dyeing operation, the one-bath multi-step wool-polyester-viscose multi-fiber piece dyeing process is adopted. According to the operation procedure, the dyeing operation includes viscose dyeing operation, washing operation, soaping operation and wool-polyester-viscose dyeing operation.

[0052] like Figure 1 As shown, in step S3, in the viscose dyeing operation, the raw materials, raw material dosage and bath ratio used are set as follows: dye: NF-3B jasper red, 0.025%; NF-3R jasper yellow, 0.00675%; NF-BN jasper blue, 0.25%; auxiliaries: soda ash, 0.4g / L; sodium sulfate, 20g / L; bath ratio: 1:20.

[0053] In the viscose dyeing operation, the settings are as follows: initial temperature: 30°C; order of adding sodium sulfoxide and soda ash: sodium sulfoxide is added in 3 times: 1 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, 2 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, and 3 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide each time, with an interval of 10 minutes, for a total of 6 portions; after all the sodium sulfoxide is added, add 1 / 10 weight of soda ash, run idle for 5 minutes, raise the temperature to 60°C at a heating rate of 1°C / min, then add 2 / 10 weight of soda ash and continue for 15 minutes; after 15 minutes, add the remaining 7 / 10 weight of soda ash.

[0054] like Figure 2As shown, in the wool, polyester and viscose dyeing operation, dyeing at 40°C, dyeing at 60°C and high-temperature heat preservation operation are carried out in sequence. In the dyeing process, the raw materials used and the raw material dosage are set as follows: dyeing at 40°C: dye: weak acid brilliant blue R-AWL, 0.008%; Agarset red N-3B, 0.002%; auxiliaries: FFA, 1g / L; sodium sulfate, 6%; SCT, 1%; HAC, 1%; ammonium sulfate, 4%; dyeing at 60°C: dye: disperse red 3B, 0.003%; disperse blue 2BLN, 0.087%; auxiliaries: high-temperature leveling agent, 1%; carrier, 1%; in the high-temperature heat preservation operation, the temperature is 98°C and the heat preservation time is 30 minutes.

[0055] In the intermediate setting operation, the parameters are set as follows: temperature is 195℃; the width of the machine is 153cm. In the preparation process of wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric finished products, the main parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0056]

[0057] Table 1

[0058] Embodiment 2:

[0059] A method for preparing a wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric, the method comprising the following steps:

[0060] S1: Spinning: The spinning process is used to prepare warp yarn and weft yarn respectively; the spinning process includes the following specific steps: raw material wool splicing operation, wool blending operation, initial needle combing operation, fine needle combing operation, needle combing operation before blending, needle combing blending operation, needle combing operation before spinning, first spinning operation, last spinning operation, roving preparation operation, spun yarn preparation operation, spun yarn winding operation, high-speed paralleling operation, doubling operation and yarn steaming operation;

[0061] In the process of warp yarn preparation, the raw materials used are wool, polyester and viscose, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose is 55:28:25;

[0062] In the process of preparing the weft yarn, the raw materials used are wool, polyester, viscose and spandex, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose: spandex is 53:27:24:9; the weft yarn adopts a spandex core-spun structure;

[0063] The specific type of wool used is 66S Merino wool, the specific type of polyester used is 2D polyester, the specific type of viscose used is 3D viscose, and the spandex is Lycra spandex.

[0064] In the initial needle combing operation, two needle combing programs are set, namely the first initial needle combing operation and the second initial needle combing operation.

[0065] In the needle combing operation before blending, two needle combing programs are set, namely the first needle combing operation before blending and the second needle combing operation before blending.

[0066] The needle combing operation before weaving includes the first needle combing operation, the second needle combing operation, the third needle combing operation and the fourth needle combing operation according to the operation procedure.

[0067] In the spinning process, the requirements are as follows: the amount of crude oil used is controlled at 55 ml / min; the twist of single yarn is 790 / Z; the twist of ply yarn is 890 / S.

[0068] S2: Prepare the initial product: The warp yarn and the weft yarn are sequentially subjected to warping, threading, weaving, grading and initial product shaping to obtain the initial fabric product; the structure of the initial fabric product is a twill double-layer structure prepared by a two-up and two-down method during the weaving process.

[0069] During weaving operation, the odd-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted downward by 3 mm relative to the reference position, and the even-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted upward by 3 mm relative to the reference position.

[0070] S3 post-processing: the initial fabric is subjected to the first double boiling operation, fresh washing operation, second double boiling operation, first unblanking operation, first drying operation, intermediate shaping operation, dyeing operation, second unblanking operation, lining boiling operation, second drying operation, intermediate inspection operation, repair operation, brushing operation, shearing operation, rolling drying operation and continuous steaming shaping operation to obtain the finished wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric.

[0071] In the dyeing operation, the one-bath multi-step wool-polyester-viscose multi-fiber piece dyeing process is adopted. According to the operation procedures, the dyeing operation includes viscose dyeing operation, washing operation, soaping operation and wool-polyester-viscose dyeing operation.

[0072] In step S3, in the viscose dyeing operation, the raw materials, raw material dosage and bath ratio used are set as follows: dye: jasper red NF-3B, 0.028%; jasper yellow NF-3R, 0.00685%; jasper blue NF-BN, 0.27%; auxiliaries: soda ash, 0.42g / L; sodium sulfate, 21g / L; bath ratio: 1:21.

[0073] In the viscose dyeing operation, the settings are as follows: initial temperature: 31°C; order of adding sodium sulfoxide and soda ash: sodium sulfoxide is added in 3 times: 1 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, 2 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, 3 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide each time, with an interval of 12 minutes, a total of 6 parts; after all the sodium sulfoxide is added, add 1 / 10 weight of soda ash, idle for 5 minutes, raise the temperature to 60°C at a heating rate of 1.3°C / min, and then add 2 / 10 weight of soda ash; after 15 minutes, add the remaining 7 / 10 weight of soda ash.

[0074] In the wool, polyester and viscose dyeing operation, dyeing at 41℃ and dyeing at 61℃ and high temperature heat preservation operation are carried out in sequence. In the dyeing process, the raw materials and raw material dosage are set as follows: 41℃ dyeing: dye: weak acid brilliant blue R-AWL, 0.009%; Agarset red N-3B, 0.0025%; auxiliary agent: FFA, 1.1g / L; sodium sulfate, 6.3%; SCT, 1.1%; HAC, 1.1%; ammonium sulfate, 4.2%; 61℃ dyeing: dye: disperse red 3B, 0.0035%; disperse blue 2BLN, 0.088%; auxiliary agent: high temperature leveling agent, 1.1%; carrier, 1.1%; in the high temperature heat preservation operation, the temperature is 99℃ and the heat preservation time is 30 minutes. In the intermediate setting operation, the parameters are set as follows: temperature is 197℃; the width of the machine is 154cm.

[0075] Embodiment three:

[0076] A method for preparing a wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric, the method comprising the following steps:

[0077] S1: Spinning: The spinning process is used to prepare warp yarn and weft yarn respectively; the spinning process includes the following specific steps: raw material wool splicing operation, wool blending operation, initial needle combing operation, fine needle combing operation, needle combing operation before blending, needle combing blending operation, needle combing operation before spinning, first spinning operation, last spinning operation, roving preparation operation, spun yarn preparation operation, spun yarn winding operation, high-speed paralleling operation, doubling operation and yarn steaming operation;

[0078] In the process of warp yarn preparation, the raw materials used are wool, polyester and viscose, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose is 60:25:27;

[0079] In the process of preparing the weft yarn, the raw materials used are wool, polyester, viscose and spandex, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose: spandex is 58:29:26:8; the weft yarn adopts a spandex core-spun structure;

[0080] The specific type of wool used is 66S Merino wool, the specific type of polyester used is 2D polyester, the specific type of viscose used is 3D viscose, and the spandex is Lycra spandex.

[0081] In the initial needle combing operation, two needle combing programs are set, namely the first initial needle combing operation and the second initial needle combing operation.

[0082] In the needle combing operation before blending, two needle combing programs are set, namely the first needle combing operation before blending and the second needle combing operation before blending.

[0083] The needle combing operation before weaving includes the first needle combing operation, the second needle combing operation, the third needle combing operation and the fourth needle combing operation according to the operation procedure.

[0084] In the spinning process, the requirements are as follows: the amount of crude oil used is controlled at 50 ml / min; the twist of single yarn is 800 / Z; the twist of ply yarn is 900 / S.

[0085] S2: Prepare the initial product: The warp yarn and the weft yarn are sequentially subjected to warping, threading, weaving, grading and initial product shaping to obtain the initial fabric product; the structure of the initial fabric product is a twill double-layer structure prepared by a two-up and two-down method during the weaving process.

[0086] During weaving operation, the odd-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted downward by 3 mm relative to the reference position, and the even-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted upward by 3 mm relative to the reference position.

[0087] S3 post-processing: the initial fabric is subjected to the first double boiling operation, fresh washing operation, second double boiling operation, first unblanking operation, first drying operation, intermediate shaping operation, dyeing operation, second unblanking operation, lining boiling operation, second drying operation, intermediate inspection operation, repair operation, brushing operation, shearing operation, rolling drying operation and continuous steaming shaping operation to obtain the finished wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric.

[0088] In the dyeing operation, the one-bath multi-step wool-polyester-viscose multi-fiber piece dyeing process is adopted. According to the operation procedure, the dyeing operation includes viscose dyeing operation, washing operation, soaping operation and wool-polyester-viscose dyeing operation.

[0089] In step S3, in the viscose dyeing operation, the raw materials, raw material dosage and bath ratio used are set as follows: dye: jasper red NF-3B, 0.026%; jasper yellow NF-3R, 0.00695%; jasper blue NF-BN, 0.29%; auxiliaries: soda ash, 0.43g / L; sodium sulfate, 21g / L; bath ratio: 1:22.

[0090] In the viscose dyeing operation, the settings are as follows: initial temperature: 32°C; order of adding sodium sulfoxide and soda ash: sodium sulfoxide is added in 3 times: 1 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, 2 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide, 3 / 6 weight of sodium sulfoxide each time, with an interval of 10 minutes, a total of 6 parts; after all the sodium sulfoxide is added, add 1 / 10 weight of soda ash, idle for 5 minutes, raise the temperature to 62°C at a heating rate of 1.5°C / min, and then add 2 / 10 weight of soda ash; after 15 minutes, add the remaining 7 / 10 weight of soda ash.

[0091] In the wool, polyester and viscose dyeing operation, dyeing at 42℃, dyeing at 62℃ and high temperature heat preservation operation are carried out in sequence. In the dyeing process, the raw materials and raw material dosage are set as follows: 42℃ dyeing: dye: weak acid brilliant blue R-AWL, 0.009%; Agarset red N-3B, 0.0025%; auxiliary agent: FFA, 1.05g / L; sodium sulfate, 7%; SCT, 1.05%; HAC, 1.08%; ammonium sulfate, 4.4%; 62℃ dyeing: dye: disperse red 3B, 0.0033%; disperse blue 2BLN, 0.091%; auxiliary agent: high temperature leveling agent, 1.1%; carrier, 1.1%; in the high temperature heat preservation operation, the temperature is 100℃ and the heat preservation time is 30 minutes. In the intermediate setting operation, the parameters are set as follows: temperature is 200℃; the width of the lower machine is 154cm.

[0092] The wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric product prepared in Specific Example 1 was tested according to the "Notice of the Zhejiang Provincial Department of Science and Technology on Issuing the Provincial New Product Trial Production Plan (Second Batch) in 2023" and the GB / T26382-2011 "Worsted Wool Fabrics" product standard. The identification result is a provincial new product. After trial production, the wearing performance of the product meets the product design requirements, and various technical and quality indicators reach the first-class level of the GB / T26382-2011 "Worsted Wool Fabrics" standard. The entire production process has a complete quality assurance system to ensure that the product fully meets the prescribed quality standards; the specific performance of the tested products is shown in Table 2:

[0093]

[0094]

[0095]

[0096] Table 2

[0097] Product performance analysis:

[0098] 1. No formaldehyde, safe and environmentally friendly: Test results: No formaldehyde content was detected.

[0099] Advantages: The fabric meets environmental protection requirements, and the formaldehyde content is not detected, indicating that it does not contain harmful substances and meets international textile safety standards. It is suitable for clothing that comes into direct contact with the skin, especially baby clothing or people with sensitive skin, providing higher health and safety.

[0100] 2. Appropriate pH value to ensure comfort: Test results: pH value is 6.0.

[0101] Advantages: The pH value is within the qualified range of 4.0-8.5, and is 6.0, which meets the safety requirements for human skin contact. A comfortable pH value is not only conducive to wearing comfort, but also avoids skin irritation or allergies caused by excessive acidity or alkalinity of the fabric.

[0102] 3. Excellent dimensional stability: Test results: static dimensional change rate (warp -1.2%, weft -1.4%) and steaming dimensional change rate (warp -0.4%, weft -0.2%) are both within a reasonable range.

[0103] Advantages: This fabric shows good dimensional stability during washing and use, with small static dimensional changes and steaming dimensional changes. It can effectively prevent clothing from shrinking or deforming during wearing or washing, and keep the appearance of the clothing neat and fit.

[0104] 4. Good anti-pilling property: Test results: Pilling level is 3-4, which meets the requirements of glossy surface ≥ 3-4.

[0105] Advantages: The fabric has high anti-pilling performance and can maintain a smooth appearance for a long time. Even after long-term wear and multiple washings, it can still effectively prevent pilling, improving the durability and aesthetics of the clothing.

[0106] 5. Strong mechanical properties:

[0107] Test results: Both the breaking strength (960N in warp, 660N in weft) and the tearing strength (91N in warp, 97N in weft) far exceed the minimum requirements.

[0108] Advantages: The fabric has strong resistance to stretching and tearing, is not easy to be damaged or broken during use, can maintain a long service life even in harsh environments, and can adapt to different wearing occasions and frequent washing needs.

[0109] 6. Excellent color fastness: Test results: Color fastness to light (discoloration) meets the requirements, and color fastness to water, color fastness to washing, color fastness to ironing, etc. all meet or exceed the standards of level 3-5.

[0110] Advantages: The fabric has excellent color fastness and can resist the erosion of external environment such as light, friction, washing, etc., ensuring the durability of the color of the clothing after long-term use. Whether it is light resistance, water resistance, washing resistance or sweat resistance, it can maintain bright colors and not fade, greatly extending the service life of the clothing.

[0111] 7. Excellent friction performance: Test results: color fastness to dry friction is level 4-5, color fastness to wet friction is level 4-5.

[0112] Advantages: This fabric has excellent dry and wet friction color fastness, which can effectively avoid fading or discoloration caused by friction. It is especially suitable for areas with frequent friction such as elbows and knees, which increases the durability of clothing.

[0113] 8. Good weft elasticity: Test results: The weft elastic elongation is 15.3%, meeting the requirement of ≥15%.

[0114] Advantages: The weft elastic elongation of the fabric reaches 15.3%, which means it has good elasticity and adaptability. It can maintain comfort when worn and is not easy to deform, which enhances the slimness and comfort of the clothing.

[0115] 9. Excellent color fastness to dry cleaning and acid and alkali sweat: Test results: color fastness to dry cleaning, acid and alkali sweat, and alkali sweat are all level 4-5, which meets the requirements.

[0116] Advantages: The fabric can still maintain bright colors and not fade in special environments such as dry cleaning, sweat stains (acid and alkali), which improves the washability and easy care of the fabric. These characteristics are especially suitable for high-end custom clothing or clothing that is washed frequently, reducing the trouble of post-care.

[0117] Based on the above analysis, the finished fabric prepared by the preparation method of polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric has many advantages such as no formaldehyde, good comfort, dimensional stability, anti-pilling and strength. It performs well in color fastness, friction durability, elasticity and durability, and is suitable for various high-end markets and clothing needs, which not only ensures the long service life of clothing, but also provides a high-quality wearing experience. At the same time, the environmental performance of the fabric also makes it meet the modern consumers' concerns about health and environment.

[0118] The economic benefits are shown in Table 3:

[0119]

[0120] Table 3

[0121] The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric of the present invention significantly improves the market competitiveness of the fabric and brings considerable economic benefits by reducing costs, improving quality and optimizing production processes. With high gross profit margins, stable profits and output value growth, the fabric can not only provide continuous profits for enterprises, but also create taxes for society and promote local economic development. In addition, with the expansion of production scale, enterprises will be able to obtain more profits and a stronger market share in the future, and have good sustainable development potential.

[0122] Unique innovation: During the development of this method, we searched for existing technologies and selected 11 closely related documents as follows:

[0123] 1. A highly elastic, thin, soft, wool-added polyester-viscose fabric, application number: CN202122170481.9;

[0124] 2. A method for preparing windproof and moisture-permeable wool-polyester-viscose gabardine, application number: CN201010260310.9;

[0125] 3. A production process of heat-generating functional wool fabric; Application number: CN201410805778.X;

[0126] 4. A high-density wool-like polyester-viscose fabric, application number: CN201922289979.X;

[0127] 5. Wool-polyester-viscose three-dimensional plaid tweed, application number: CN200920038173.7;

[0128] 6. A method for producing a variety of finished product styles, application number: CN201810786035.0;

[0129] 7. A method for making water ripples on mercerized wool without water leakage, application number: CN201910736463.7;

[0130] 8. A method for manufacturing a woolen blended fabric with hidden herringbone pattern, application number: CN201911005035.3;

[0131] 9. A high-count smooth wool double-faced fabric and its production process, application number: CN201210195679.5;

[0132] 10. A wool differential shrinkage three-dimensional pattern fabric and its production method, application number: CN201510889289.1;

[0133] 11. A production process for ball woolen fabric; Application number: CN201810807367.2;

[0134] The invention adopts 66S merino wool, 2D rayon, 3D viscose fiber blending, 212 double-layer structure, and adopts wool-polyester-viscose one-bath multi-step piece dyeing process, the color fastness of the fabric is greater than or equal to level 4, and the weft elasticity is greater than or equal to 15%. The above same technical features are not mentioned in other relevant documents examined in China.

[0135] The specific embodiments described herein are merely examples of the spirit of the present invention. A person skilled in the art of the present invention may make various modifications or supplements to the specific embodiments described or replace them in a similar manner, but will not deviate from the spirit of the present invention or exceed the defined scope. Although the present invention is described and described in detail in the drawings and the foregoing description, such descriptions and descriptions are considered to be illustrative or exemplary rather than restrictive. It should be understood that within the scope of the following claims, changes and modifications may be made by a person of ordinary skill. Specifically, the present invention encompasses additional embodiments having any combination of features from the above-mentioned different embodiments. With respect to the use of the expression "generally" or "substantially", this patent application should be understood to disclose that these features and values ​​are also fully satisfied, i.e., there is no aforementioned characterization as "generally" or "substantially".

Claims

1. A method for preparing wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric, characterized in that: The preparation method of wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric comprises the following steps: S1 Spinning: The spinning process is used to prepare warp yarn and weft yarn respectively; the spinning process includes the following specific steps: raw material wool splicing operation, wool blending operation, initial needle combing operation, fine needle combing operation, needle combing operation before blending, needle combing blending operation, needle combing operation before spinning, first spinning operation, last spinning operation, roving preparation operation, spun yarn preparation operation, spun yarn winding operation, high-speed doubling operation, doubling operation and yarn steaming operation; In the process of warp yarn preparation, the raw materials used are wool, polyester and viscose, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose is 30-80:10-30:10-30; In the process of preparing the weft yarn, the raw materials used are wool, polyester, viscose and spandex, and the weight ratio of wool: polyester: viscose: spandex is 30-80:10-30:10-30:6-10; the weft yarn adopts a spandex core-spun structure; S2: preparing the initial product: the warp yarn and the weft yarn are sequentially subjected to warping, threading, weaving, grading and initial product shaping to obtain the initial fabric product; the structure of the initial fabric product is a twill double-layer structure prepared by a two-up and two-down method in the weaving process; S3 post-processing: the initial fabric is subjected to the first double boiling operation, the new washing operation, the second double boiling operation, the first unbending operation, the first drying operation, the intermediate shaping operation, the dyeing operation, the second unbending operation, the lining boiling operation, the second drying operation, the intermediate inspection operation, the repair operation, the brushing operation, the shearing operation, the rolling drying operation and the continuous steaming shaping operation to obtain the finished wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric; In the dyeing operation, the one-bath multi-step wool-polyester-viscose multi-fiber piece dyeing process is adopted. According to the operation procedure, the dyeing operation includes viscose dyeing operation, washing operation, soaping operation and wool-polyester-viscose dyeing operation.

2. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S1, in the initial needle combing operation, two needle combing operations are set, namely the first initial needle combing operation and the second initial needle combing operation.

3. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S1, in the needle combing operation before blending, two needle combing operations are set, namely the first needle combing operation before blending and the second needle combing operation before blending.

4. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S1, in the needle combing operation before spinning, according to the operation sequence, there are a first needle combing operation, a second needle combing operation, a third needle combing operation and a fourth needle combing operation.

5. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S1, in the spinning process, the requirements are as follows: the amount of crude oil used is controlled at 40-60 ml / min; the twist of single yarn is 760-800 / Z; the twist of ply yarn is 880-920 / S.

6. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S2, during the weaving operation, the odd-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted downward by 3-4 mm relative to the reference position, and the even-numbered pieces of the ground warp heald frames are adjusted upward by 3-4 mm relative to the reference position.

7. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, in the viscose dyeing operation, the raw materials, raw material dosage and bath ratio used are set as follows: dye: jasper red NF-3B, 0.025%-0.035%; jasper yellow NF-3R, 0.00675%-0.00715%; jasper blue NF-BN, 0.25%-0.3%; auxiliaries: soda ash, 0.4-0.45g / L; sodium sulfate, 20-22g / L; bath ratio: 1:20-22. In the viscose dyeing operation, the following settings are made: initial temperature: 30-32°C; order of adding sodium sulfate and soda ash: sodium sulfate is added in 3 times: 1 / 6 weight sodium sulfate, 2 / 6 weight sodium sulfate, and 3 / 6 weight sodium sulfate are added in sequence, with an interval of 10-12 minutes; After all the sodium sulfate is added, add 1 / 10 weight of soda ash, run idle for 5-6 minutes, raise the temperature to 60-62°C at a heating rate of 1-1.5°C / min, and then add 2 / 10 weight of soda ash; after 15-18 minutes, add the remaining 7 / 10 weight of soda ash.

8. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, in the wool, polyester and viscose dyeing operation, normal temperature dyeing, medium temperature dyeing and high temperature heat preservation operation are carried out in sequence. In the dyeing process, the raw materials and raw material dosages used are set as follows: normal temperature dyeing: temperature: 40-42°C Dye: weak acid brilliant blue R-AWL, 0.008%-0.009%; Agarset red N-3B, 0.002%-0.003%; auxiliaries: FFA, 1-1.1g / L; sodium sulfate, 6-7%; SCT, 1%-1.2%; HAC, 1%-1.2%; ammonium sulfate, 4%-4.4%; Medium temperature dyeing: temperature: 60-63℃; Dye: Disperse Red 3B, 0.003%-0.0035%; Disperse Blue 2BLN, 0.087%-0.091%; Auxiliary agents: High temperature leveling agent, 1%-1.1%; Carrier, 1%-1.1%; In the high temperature insulation operation, the temperature is 98-100℃ and the insulation time is 30-35 minutes.

9. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S1, the wool used is specifically 66S Merino wool, the polyester used is specifically 2D polyester, and the viscose used is specifically 3D viscose.

10. The method for preparing the wool-polyester-viscose piece-dyed weft-stretched tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, in the intermediate setting operation, the setting temperature is 195-200°C.

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