Beauty emulsion containing diisopropyl adipate and polyglycerol ester
The deficiencies of silicone oil and acrylic acid homopolymer or copolymer polymers in existing cosmetic emulsions are solved by using diisopropyl adipic acid and polyglycerol-3 methylglucose disstearate or polyglycerol with polyglycerol esters of fatty acids of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, achieving moderate thickening and good sensory properties of the emulsions.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380074526.1
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-01-06
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-20
AI Technical Summary
The commonly used silicone oil and acrylic homopolymer or copolymerized polymers in existing cosmetic emulsions are no longer ideal due to the presence of silicone structures, and biopolymers increase emulsion viscosity but may lead to excessive viscosity of the formulation and insufficient elastic gel structure or sensory properties.
The combination of diisopropyl adipic acid and polyglycerol-3 methylglucose disstearate or polyglycerol with polyglycerol esters of fatty acids of 12 to 22 carbon atoms is used to thicken the oil-in-water emulsion through the interaction of these compounds, reducing the viscosity of the emulsion and avoiding the formation of elastic gel structures.
It is achieved without the use of silicone and acrylic homopolymers, improving the viscosity of the cosmetic lotion, reducing the foaming level, and maintaining good sensory properties, avoiding the formulation being too viscous or having a poor elastic gel structure.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of beauty and relates to a beauty lotion thickened by a combination of diisopropyl adipate and at least one polyglycerol ester. Background Art
[0002] Beauty products are generally used not only to make people look beautiful and charming, but also their effects play a decisive role in enhancing self-esteem and people's well-being. Therefore, a variety of beauty products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.
[0003] A well-known group of beauty products are body lotions and facial care beauty products. These preparations are usually formulated as oil-in-water emulsions. In the past, these preparations contained silicone oil and polymers homopolymerized or copolymerized with acrylic acid. These compounds have a pleasant feel, so the lotion can be easily applied to the skin, providing a fresh and non-greasy feel. These preparations are indeed easily absorbed. Therefore, the above polymers are usually used to thicken the preparation to a suitable viscosity so that the preparation has a rich texture and is not likely to flow off the skin.
[0004] However, for various reasons, it is desirable to provide preparations that do not contain silicone and polymers homopolymerized or copolymerized with acrylic acid. These biopolymers (such as xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) can usually establish sufficient viscosity in oil-in-water emulsions. However, at the required viscosity level, the amount of these biopolymers may cause the preparation to become very sticky. In addition, these preparations usually have drawbacks because they have an elastic gel structure or insufficient sensory properties.
[0005] Therefore, in order to reduce the amount of biopolymers, other methods and techniques are needed to increase the viscosity in the emulsion preparation.
[0006] Document WO 2014 / 181747 A1 discloses oil-based thickeners. However, these reagents contain silicone structures, which are no longer ideal.
[0007] Document US4939179A discloses a thickened emulsion. The thickener is isoparaffin and C8-C 22 alkyl phosphate.
[0008] However, none of these documents can guide those skilled in the art to achieve the present invention. Summary of the Invention
[0009] The applicant has unexpectedly found that the combination of the present invention allows thickening of oil-in-water emulsions. The preparation according to the present invention has low viscosity. Due to the different thickening method, the elastic gel structure can be reduced.
[0010] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water beauty lotion, which comprises
[0011] a) Diisopropyl adipate, and
[0012] b) Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and / or at least one polyglyceryl ester of polyglycerol and one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0013] Another object of the present invention is diisopropyl adipate and
[0014] a) Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and / or
[0015] b) At least one polyglyceryl ester of polyglycerol and one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms
[0016] Use for thickening oil-in-water emulsions.
[0017] Surprisingly, the emulsions of the present invention do exhibit a very low foaming level when applied to human skin. This is particularly surprising because the formulations are not formulated with silicones. Silicone oils are most commonly used as defoamers. For example, polydimethylsiloxane has a low surface tension and is not easily soluble in water or other oily components. Therefore, it can easily move to the foam surface where characteristic bubbles appear when applying a beauty product to human skin and spread on the bubble surface. This process makes the bubble surface uneven, causing the bubbles to start combining and bursting more quickly.
[0018] Unless otherwise stated, all weight percentages (wt%) given below relate to the total weight of the beauty emulsion. If the proportions of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these proportions refer to the weight ratios of the components unless otherwise stated.
[0019] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements are carried out under "normal conditions". The term "normal conditions" means 20 °C, 1013 hPa and 50% relative humidity.
[0020] In the following description, the terms "according to the present invention", "preferably according to the present invention", etc. always refer to the uses, compositions and methods according to the present invention.
[0021] For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free of" means that the proportion of the corresponding substance is less than 0.05 wt%. This ensures that these substances are not included as entrained substances or impurities and are "free of" according to the present invention.
[0022] The term "skin" refers only to human skin.
[0023] If viscosity values are given in the present disclosure, all values refer to measurements taken at 25 °C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR number: 807-001) using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The RheomatR 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e., the measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. Viscosity is calculated based on this torque, the speed of the measuring body, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. A measuring body numbered 1 (article number 200 0191) applicable to a viscosity range up to 10,000 [mPa s] and a speed range of 62.5 min -1 is used as the measuring body.
[0024] Emulsifiers refer to all substances listed under the name "Emulsifier" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants refer to all substances listed under the name "Surfactant" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).
[0025] Preferably, the total amount of diisopropyl adipate is in the range of 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.5 wt% to 3.0 wt%, and most preferably 1.0 wt% to 2.0 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0026] For cases containing polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, preferably, the total amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range of 1.5 wt% to 5.0 wt%, more preferably 2.2 wt% to 4.3 wt%, and most preferably 2.7 wt% to 3.9 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0027] For cases containing at least one polyglycerol ester of polyglycerol and one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the total amount of the polyglycerol ester is in the range of 0.5 wt% to 4.0 wt%, more preferably 0.9 wt% to 3.1 wt%, and most preferably 1.2 wt% to 2.3 wt% based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0028] Among polyglycerol esters, polyglycerol-10 decanoate, polyglycerol-10 octanoate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 dimyristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-6 octanoate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-6 ricinoleate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-6 stearate, polyglycerol-6 behenate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 oleate, polyglycerol-5 dioleate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-4 decanoate, polyglycerol-3 decanoate / octanoate / succinate, polyglycerol-3 cocoate, polyglycerol-3 laurate and polyglycerol-2 octanoate are preferred.
[0029] More preferably, the polyglycerol esters are selected from polyglycerol-6 stearate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate and polyglycerol-6 behenate.
[0030] The most preferred polyglycerol esters are polyglycerol-6 stearate and polyglycerol-6 behenate.
[0031] Therefore, preferably, the total amount of polyglycerol-10 decanoate, polyglycerol-10 octanoate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 dimyristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-6 octanoate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-6 ricinoleate, polyglycerol-6 stearate, polyglycerol-6 behenate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 oleate, polyglycerol-5 dioleate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-4 decanoate, polyglycerol-3 decanoate / octanoate / succinate, polyglycerol-3 cocoate, polyglycerol-3 laurate and polyglycerol-2 octanoate is in the range of 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9% to 3.1% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% to 2.3% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0032] Further preferably, the total amount of the polyglycerol esters is in the range of 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9% to 3.1% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% to 2.3% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0033] Further preferably, the total amount of polyglycerol-6 stearate and polyglycerol-6 behenate is in the range of 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9% to 3.1% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% to 2.3% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0034] According to the present invention, it is further preferred that the emulsion comprises at least one oil selected from esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the esters may be hydroxylated.
[0035] According to the present invention, it is preferred that the total amount of esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, is in the range of 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.6% to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.75% to 4.5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0036] Preferred esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, are selected from hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, dibutyl octyl succinate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, benzyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmitic acid acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, erucyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.
[0037] Among these esters, isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.
[0038] Therefore, preferably, the total amount of esters of a hydroxylated linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 2 to 30 carbon atoms is in the range of 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 6.0% by weight, still more preferably 0.6% to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.75% to 4.5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion. The esters are selected from hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyl octyl 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, benzyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmitic acid acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, erucyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.
[0039] More preferably, the total amount of isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or isopropyl palmitate is in the range of 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 6.0% by weight, still more preferably 0.6% to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.75% to 4.5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0040] More preferably, the emulsion contains at least one triglyceride fatty acid. The total amount of the triglyceride fatty acid is preferably in the range of 0.5% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0% to 6.5% by weight, still more preferably 1.1% to 6% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0041] Preferably, the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil (triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil)), murumuru seed butter (Astrocaryum sp triglyceride), C10-18 triglyceride, C10-40 isoalkyl acid triglyceride, C12-18 acid triglyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, C8-12 acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride, capric / lauric / myristic / oleic triglyceride, caprylic / capric / linoleic triglyceride, caprylic / capric / stearic triglyceride, castor oil maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (mono maleic acid castor oil triglyceride)), hydrogenated C12-18 triglyceride, lauric / palmitic / oleic triglyceride, erucic / palmitic triglyceride, oleic / linoleic triglyceride, oleic / palmitic / lauric / myristic / linoleic triglyceride, ricinoleic / caproic / caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride and / or jojoba oil / caprylic / capric triglyceride ester.
[0042] Particularly preferably, it is caprylic / capric triglyceride. Thus, particularly preferably, the total amount of caprylic / capric triglyceride is in the range of 0.5% by weight to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0% by weight to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1.1% by weight to 6% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% by weight to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0043] The fatty acid triglyceride can also be part of a natural oil. Preferred natural oils that can be included are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, almond oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, wild soybean (glycine soja) oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, rhododendron oil, thistle oil, macadamia oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, camellia sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
[0044] According to the present invention, it is further preferred that the emulsion contains less than 0.1% by weight or 0% by weight of a polymer formed by homopolymerization or copolymerization of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.
[0045] In addition, preferably, the total amount of the oil phase of the emulsion is in the range of 3.0% by weight to 20.0% by weight, more preferably 3.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and most preferably 3.8% by weight to 12.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0046] By definition, emulsifiers and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. However, fatty alcohols are considered part of the oil phase.
[0047] Other compounds that can be included in the oil phase are, for example, selected from other branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 - 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols as they can be obtained according to the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are hexyl decanol (Eutanol® G 16, Guerbitol® T 16), octyl dodecanol (Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 20), and 2 - ethylhexanol.
[0048] According to the present invention, preferred other oils are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono - or poly - C8 - 22 alkanols (such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol), such as PPG - 2 myristyl ether and PPG - 3 myristyl ether (Witconol® APM).
[0049] According to the present invention, other oils that can be included in the emulsion are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono - or poly - C3 - 22 alkanols (such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol), such as PPG - 14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG - 9 butyl ether (Breox® B25), PPG - 10 butanediol (Macol® 57), and PPG - 15 stearyl ether (Arlamol® E).
[0050] Other oils are preferably selected from the C8 - C22 fatty alcohol esters of mono - or poly - C2 - C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, especially esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C14 / 15 alkanols, such as C12 - C15 alkyl lactate, and such esters based on 2 - branched C12 / 13 alkanols, are available under the trade name Cosmacol® from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co., Hamburg, especially the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI, and Cosmacol® ETI.
[0051] Other oils that can be preferably used are selected from symmetrical, asymmetrical, or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, such as glycerol carbonate, dicapryl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1.
[0052] Furthermore, it is preferred that the emulsion contains at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these fatty alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the corresponding cetearyl alcohol mixtures are more preferred.
[0053] In the case of containing at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the total amount of these fatty alcohols is in the range of 0.5% by weight to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0% by weight to 6.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% by weight to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0054] According to the present invention, the emulsion contains at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan, and dehydroxanthan gum.
[0055] Preferably and advantageously, the emulsion contains at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan, and dehydroxanthan gum in the range of 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05% by weight to 0.4% by weight, and most preferably 0.10% by weight to 0.3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0056] Particularly preferably, it contains at least xanthan gum. Particularly preferably, the total amount of xanthan gum is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05% by weight to 0.4% by weight, and most preferably 0.10% by weight to 0.3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0057] A further preferred emulsion of the present invention contains hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. In the case of containing hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, preferably, the total amount of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50% by weight to 2.4% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% by weight to 1.9% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0058] In addition, preferably, the emulsion of the present invention further contains short-chain polyols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of this type are butanediol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-propanediol, methylpropylene glycol, and octanediol.
[0059] Preferably, the content of these preferred polyols is in the range of 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably 1% by weight to 9% by weight, and most preferably 1.5% by weight to 8% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0060] In addition, preferably, the emulsion contains phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerol.
[0061] In the case of containing phenoxyethanol, preferably, the total amount of phenoxyethanol is in the range of 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0062] In the case of containing ethylhexylglycerol, preferably, the total amount of ethylhexylglycerol is in the range of 0.1% by weight to 1.2% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0063] In addition, according to the present invention, it is preferred that it contains at least one non-ionic emulsifier. Although substantially all non-ionic emulsifiers can be included in the emulsion of the present invention, it has been found that certain emulsifiers are particularly beneficial for the said effects. The preferred non-ionic emulsifiers are selected from polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
[0064] Particularly preferred is glyceryl stearate and / or glyceryl stearate SE.
[0065] For the case of containing at least one non-ionic emulsifier, it is preferred that the total amount of the non-ionic emulsifier is in the range of 0.2% by weight to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.8% by weight to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% by weight to 2.8% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0066] For the case of containing at least one non-ionic emulsifier selected from polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, it is preferred that the total amount of these non-ionic emulsifiers is in the range of 0.2% by weight to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.8% by weight to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% by weight to 2.8% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
[0067] According to the present invention, it is advantageous that it also contains other active ingredients. These active ingredients are advantageously selected from sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. Advantageously, the total proportion of the active ingredients mentioned in this group is up to 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0068] In addition, it is preferred that the total amount of water contained in the emulsion is in the range of 70.0% by weight to 95% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion. Detailed Description
[0069] The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions of the present invention but are not intended to limit the present invention to these examples. The values in the examples are weight percentages based on the total weight of the formulation.
[0070] Examples 1 and 2 are reference examples and are not within the scope of the present invention.
[0071]
[0072] To evaluate the performance of the emulsion of the present invention in terms of foam generation and white residue left on the skin, a method for analyzing the white residue on the skin using an image analyzer and image analysis software (ImageJ) was developed.
[0073] Perform the following steps:
[0074] Set up the instrument:
[0075] 1. Prepare the sample and load it into the pipette.
[0076] 2. Set the metronome (96 beeps per minute).
[0077] 3. Prepare the stopwatch.
[0078] 4. Turn on the light box and adjust it to white light.
[0079] 5. Prepare the black artificial skin and the reference card
[0080] 6. Turn on the camera and set up the camera.
[0081] Apply the sample to the artificial skin and take a photo:
[0082] 1. Apply 100 µL of the lotion to the left one-third of the artificial skin.
[0083] 2. Start the metronome.
[0084] 3. Start the stopwatch and move 3 fingers left and right with the beat for 30 seconds to apply the product to the artificial skin.
[0085] 4. Take a photo immediately after application is complete.
[0086] 5. Take another photo of the standard white card.
[0087] Use ImageJ (software) to analyze the pictures:
[0088] Result calculation:
[0089] Set the relative anti-whitening value of the standard white area (2 x 10 cm) to 0%;
[0090] Set the relative anti-whitening value of completely black (L value < 50, average gray value = 255) to 100%.
[0091]
[0092] : The average gray value of the test sample.
[0093] : The average gray value of the 2 x 10 cm standard white area.
[0094] 100% means there is no white residue at all, while 0% means obvious white residue is visible. The relative anti-whitening (%) is called the defoaming score.
[0095]
[0096]
[0097]
Claims
1. An oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion, which comprises a) diisopropyl adipate, and b) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and / or at least one polyglyceryl ester of polyglycerol and one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
2. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate / caprylate / succinate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, preferably polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate, more preferably polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate.
3. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total amount of diisopropyl adipate is in the range of 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0% to 2.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
4. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the total amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range of 1.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably 2.2% to 4.3% by weight, more preferably 2.7% to 3.9% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
5. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1-4, wherein the total amount of the at least one polyglyceryl ester is in the range of 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, preferably 0.9% to 3.1% by weight, more preferably 1.2% to 2.3% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
6. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1-5, which further comprises at least one oil selected from esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the esters may be hydroxylated.
7. The oil-in-water type beauty emulsion according to claim 6, wherein the ester is selected from hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyl octyl butyrate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl erucate, oleyl erucate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate, preferably isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or isopropyl palmitate.
8. The oil-in-water type beauty emulsion according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the total amount of the ester is in the range of 0.2% by weight to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.6% by weight to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.75% by weight to 4.5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
9. The oil-in-water type beauty emulsion according to any one of claims 1-8, which further comprises at least one fatty acid triglyceride.
10. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to claim 9, wherein the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil (triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil)), murumuru seed butter (Astrocaryum sp triglyceride), C10-18 triglyceride, C10-40 isoalkyl acid triglyceride, C12-18 acid triglyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, C8-12 acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, capric / lauric / myristic / oleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / linoleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / stearic acid triglyceride, castor oil maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (mono maleate castor oil triglyceride)), hydrogenated C12-18 triglyceride, lauric / palmitic / oleic acid triglyceride, erucic / palmitic acid triglyceride, oleic / linoleic acid triglyceride, oleic / palmitic / lauric / myristic / linoleic acid triglyceride, ricinoleic / caproic / caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / succinic acid triglyceride and / or jojoba oil / caprylic / capric acid triglyceride ester, preferably selected from caprylic / capric acid triglyceride.
11. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the total amount of the fatty acid triglyceride is in the range of 0.5% by weight to 8.0% by weight, preferably 1.0% by weight to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1.1% by weight to 6% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% by weight to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
12. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1-11, wherein the emulsion contains less than 0.1% by weight or 0% by weight of a polymer formed by homopolymerization or copolymerization of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.
13. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1-12, wherein the total amount of the oil phase of the emulsion is in the range of 3.0% by weight to 20.0% by weight, preferably 3.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably 3.8% by weight to 12.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
14. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1-13, which further contains at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
15. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to claim 14, wherein the total amount of the fatty alcohol is in the range of 0.5% by weight to 8.0% by weight, preferably 1.0% by weight to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2% by weight to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
16. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 15 further comprises at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan, and dehydroxanthan gum, preferably in the range of 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 0.4% by weight, and most preferably 0.10% to 0.3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
17. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 16 further comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, preferably in the range of 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50% to 2.4% by weight, and most preferably 1.2% to 1.9% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
18. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 17 further comprises short-chain polyols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably butylene glycol, glycerol (propanetriol), propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2 - hexanediol, 1,2 - heptanediol, 1,2 - propanediol, methylpropanediol, and octanediol.
19. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to claim 18, wherein the content of the polyol is in the range of 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 1.0% to 9% by weight, and more preferably 1.5% to 8% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
20. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 19 further comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin. Based on the total weight of the emulsion, the total amount of phenoxyethanol is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and the total amount of ethylhexylglycerin is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 1.2% by weight.
21. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 20 further comprises at least one nonionic emulsifier, preferably selected from polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate, and PEG - 40 hydrogenated castor oil, more preferably glyceryl stearate and / or glyceryl stearate SE.
22. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to claim 21, wherein the total amount of the at least one nonionic emulsifier is in the range of 0.2% to 4.0% by weight, preferably 0.8% to 3.0% by weight, and more preferably 1.2% to 2.8% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
23. The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 22 further comprises active ingredients selected from the following: sodium hyaluronate, 1 - methylhydantoin - 2 - imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. Preferably, the total proportion of the active ingredients is up to 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
24. The oil-in-water beauty emulsion according to any one of claims 1-23, which further comprises water, preferably the total amount of water is in the range of 70.0% by weight to 95% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
25. Diisopropyl adipate and a) Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; and / or b) At least one polyglyceryl ester of polyglycerol and one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms Use for thickening an oil-in-water emulsion.
26. The use according to claim 25, wherein the at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate / caprylate / succinate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, preferably polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate, more preferably polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate.
27. The use according to claim 25 or 26, wherein the total amount of diisopropyl adipate is in the range of 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0% by weight to 2.0% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
28. The use according to any one of claims 25-27, wherein the total amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range of 1.5% by weight to 5.0% by weight, preferably 2.2% by weight to 4.3% by weight, more preferably 2.7% by weight to 3.9% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
29. The use according to any one of claims 25-28, wherein the total amount of the at least one polyglyceryl ester is in the range of 0.5% by weight to 4.0% by weight, preferably 0.9% by weight to 3.1% by weight, more preferably 1.2% by weight to 2.3% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion.
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