Moisturizing and hydrating composition, preparation method thereof and application of moisturizing and hydrating composition in cosmetics

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses a moisturizing composition as well as a preparation method and application thereof in cosmetics. The moisturizing and hydrating composition comprises three-dimensional colloid and compound vegetable oil, the three-dimensional colloid comprises a matrix composed of cellulose gum and sodium alginate and a yeast extract dispersed in the matrix; the compound vegetable oil comprises purple perilla seed oil, sunflower seed oil and olive fruit oil. When the moisturizing and hydrating composition is used in cosmetics, the moisturizing and hydrating effects of the cosmetics can be improved, the moisturizing and hydrating time efficiency of the cosmetics can be prolonged, and meanwhile, the skin barrier can be repaired.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly to a moisturizing and hydrating composition, a preparation method thereof, and an application in cosmetics. Background Art

[0002] As the largest organ of the human body, the skin is an important barrier for protecting internal organs and tissues from external physical and chemical damage, as well as preventing excessive loss of nutrients, water, and electrolytes in the body. Under normal circumstances, the water content of the skin is about 20% - 35%, and the water content of the stratum corneum is about 10% - 20%. When the external humidity is low or the skin's function of absorbing and retaining water is damaged, the skin lacks water and becomes dry, showing phenomena such as rough, tight skin with decreased elasticity, and even causing the skin to gradually age, with fine lines appearing in areas with thinner skin barriers such as around the eyes and nose wings. Therefore, moisturizing and hydrating, as the most basic function in skin care, has always been a hot topic of concern for consumers, and the research and development of moisturizers is an important topic in the field of cosmetics.

[0003] Moisturizers can improve the water content in the stratum corneum of the skin and promote the repair of the skin barrier through two aspects: moisture absorption and water retention. Among them, moisture absorption mainly uses osmotic pressure to attract water molecules to keep the stratum corneum of the skin moist, and water retention mainly forms a closed lubricating film to limit the loss of water on the skin surface to the environment. Yeast extract is rich in active ingredients such as polypeptides, amino acids, vitamins, nucleic acids, and nucleotides. Currently, there have been studies showing that it can be used in the field of cosmetics to improve skin conditions, reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) of the skin, and play a moisturizing and hydrating role. Moreover, compared with chemically synthesized moisturizers, yeast extract is milder, less irritating, and has good affinity with the skin. However, when directly added to cosmetics in the prior art (such as patent CN109453083A), there are problems such as poor stability, easy inactivation, and short action time of yeast extract, resulting in poor improvement effect on the moisturizing and hydrating performance of cosmetics. Summary of the Invention

[0004] In order to solve the technical problem that the improvement effect of yeast extract on the moisturizing and hydrating performance of cosmetics is limited, the present invention provides a moisturizing and hydrating composition, a preparation method thereof, and an application in cosmetics. When the moisturizing and hydrating composition of the present invention is used in cosmetics, it can improve the moisturizing and hydrating effect of cosmetics, extend its moisturizing and hydrating time, and at the same time can repair the skin barrier.

[0005] The specific technical solution of the present invention is as follows: In the first aspect, the present invention provides a moisturizing and hydrating composition, comprising a three-dimensional colloid and a composite vegetable oil; the three-dimensional colloid comprises a matrix composed of cellulose gum and sodium alginate and yeast extract dispersed in the matrix; the composite vegetable oil comprises perilla seed oil, sunflower seed oil, and olive fruit oil.

[0006] In the present invention, cellulose gum and sodium alginate can form the framework (matrix) structure of an aqueous three-dimensional colloid. By loading yeast extract therein, the following effects can be achieved: (1) By loading yeast extract in the composite matrix composed of cellulose gum and sodium alginate, the direct contact between the yeast extract and external adverse factors can be reduced, thereby protecting its activity and stability. At the same time, a sustained-release effect can be exerted, enabling the yeast extract to be released persistently, and thus prolonging the moisturizing and hydrating time limit.

[0007] (2) Compared with some synthetic polymer materials, cellulose gum and sodium alginate are biodegradable, which can greatly reduce the irritation to the skin. Cellulose gum and sodium alginate are respectively derived from wood and brown algae, rich in polysaccharides and sodium alginate. Their chemical structures are similar to polysaccharide substances in organisms and have good biocompatibility. The yeast extract is also a substance of biological origin. This similar chemical property makes the interaction between them more gentle and coordinated, thereby reducing the possibility of inactivation or denaturation of the latter due to incompatibility between the sustained-release material and the yeast extract, and enabling the yeast extract to have better stability.

[0008] (3) Sodium alginate has obvious pH sensitivity. In different pH environments, the stretching and contraction states of its molecular chains will change, thereby affecting the release rate of substances. Therefore, the combination of cellulose gum and sodium alginate can synergistically regulate the release rate of active ingredients according to the usage environment and requirements of cosmetics, achieving long-term sustained release. For example, in the weakly acidic environment on the skin surface, the molecular chains of sodium alginate may contract, while the gel structure of cellulose gum can still maintain a certain stability, enabling the extract to be slowly released and prolonging its action time on the skin.

[0009] In the present invention, perilla seed oil, sunflower seed oil and olive fruit oil are compounded. Synergistic effects can be generated among these components to achieve better moisturizing and hydrating effects. Specifically: (1) Synergistic effect between perilla seed oil and sunflower seed oil: Perilla seed oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids such as α-linolenic acid, and has good permeability and moisturizing properties. It can penetrate deep into the bottom layer of the skin, replenish moisture for the skin, and form a thin oil film on the skin surface to reduce water loss. Sunflower seed oil contains abundant unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid. Linoleic acid is an important component of the skin cell membrane, which helps to maintain the skin's barrier function and enhance the skin's moisturizing ability. At the same time, it can also prevent the water in the skin from evaporating through the epidermis, playing a role in moisturizing and locking water. When the two are used in combination, different types of fatty acids complement each other, and a more complete and effective moisturizing film can be formed on the skin surface to prevent water evaporation, thus exerting a synergistic moisturizing effect. Unsaturated fatty acids such as α-linolenic acid in perilla seed oil and linoleic acid in sunflower seed oil are easily oxidized, while natural antioxidants such as vitamin E contained in them can prevent this oxidation process. The antioxidant components such as rosmarinic acid in perilla seed oil and vitamin E in sunflower seed oil act synergistically to more effectively scavenge free radicals in the skin, reduce oxidative damage, protect the skin's barrier function, enable the skin to better retain moisture, and indirectly enhance the moisturizing effect.

[0010] (2) Synergistic effect between perilla seed oil and olive fruit oil: On the one hand, the high content of oleic acid in olive fruit oil can improve the penetration efficiency of rosmarinic acid in perilla seed oil. On the other hand, the long-chain triglycerides of olive fruit oil form a breathable film on the skin surface, while the short-chain unsaturated fatty acids of perilla seed oil penetrate into the gaps of the stratum corneum.

[0011] (3) Synergistic effect between sunflower seed oil and olive fruit oil: The antioxidant polyphenols and tocopherols in olive fruit oil both have strong antioxidant capabilities, which can scavenge free radicals in the skin and reduce the damage caused by oxidative stress to the skin; sunflower seed oil is rich in vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids, has good moisturizing and moisturizing effects, and also has a certain antioxidant effect. When the two are compounded, the antioxidant effect of olive fruit oil can better protect the unsaturated fatty acids in sunflower seed oil from being oxidized, making its moisturizing and moisturizing effects more lasting.

[0012] Through the above method, after the composition of the present invention is applied to the skin, the composite vegetable oil can spread into a film on the skin surface and play a role in scavenging free radicals. At the same time, the three-dimensional colloid is dispersed in it, and the active ingredients in the yeast extract are gradually released. Under the combined action of the composite vegetable oil and the three-dimensional colloid, the moisturizing and water replenishing effect of the cosmetic can be improved. In addition, in the present invention, the yeast extract is loaded in the three-dimensional colloid, and the composite vegetable oil is not loaded therein, so that the composite vegetable oil can quickly form a film on the skin surface, thereby preventing the evaporation of water in the stratum corneum.

[0013] Preferably, the mass ratio of the perilla seed oil to the sunflower seed oil is 1:1 to 2, the mass ratio of the perilla seed oil to the olive fruit oil is 1:2 to 3, and the mass ratio of the sunflower seed oil to the olive fruit oil is 1:1 to 2.

[0014] When the ratios between the components in the composite vegetable oil are controlled within the above ranges, the synergistic effects between the perilla seed oil and the sunflower seed oil, between the perilla seed oil and the olive fruit oil, and between the sunflower seed oil and the olive fruit oil can be better achieved, thereby enhancing the moisturizing and hydrating effects of the composition to a greater extent.

[0015] Preferably, ceramides are also dispersed in the matrix of the three-dimensional colloid; the moisturizing and hydrating composition further includes lecithin and phytosterols; the mass ratio of the ceramides, the composite vegetable oil, and the phytosterols is 8 - 9:2 - 4:4 - 7.

[0016] In the present invention, both the yeast extract and ceramides are loaded in the three-dimensional colloid. The polysaccharide component in the yeast extract provides a good cell environment and immunomodulatory effect for skin repair, while ceramides directly repair and improve the skin barrier structure. The synergistic effect of the two can accelerate the skin barrier repair process, improve the repair effect, and enable the skin to recover to a healthy state faster.

[0017] In addition, the main components of intercellular lipids are ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. Changes in their structures or proportions will affect skin barrier function. The reason why intercellular lipids can lock in moisture is mainly due to the presence of ceramides, which account for about 50% in intercellular lipids. It is both a lipid and has a certain hydrophilicity. It will combine with cholesterol and free fatty acids in sebum to form a dense bilayer membrane, preventing water loss and arranging various intercellular lipids in an orderly manner to play a barrier role. Ceramides, lecithin, and phytosterols are transported to the deeper living epidermis through the stratum corneum and are released along the same lipids in the skin to supplement the skin barrier and increase the content of exogenous ceramides. Moreover, in the human stratum corneum, the optimal ratio for maintaining skin barrier function is when the molar concentrations of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol are equal. Based on this, the present invention controls the mass ratio of ceramides, the composite vegetable oil, and phytosterols at a level close to 9:3:5 to achieve a better moisturizing and hydrating effect.

[0018] Preferably, the yeast extract is an endophytic yeast extract from the bark of Quercus suber.

[0019] The endophytic yeast extract from the bark of Quercus variabilis contains abundant β-glucan and xylitol. Among them, β-glucan has strong antioxidant effects, can scavenge free radicals that damage cells in the skin, better maintain the activity and integrity of cells, and thus achieve the function of strengthening the skin barrier. Xylitol is a polyol, which has good hygroscopicity. Compared with common humectants such as glycerol, the moisturizing effect of xylitol is more persistent; xylitol can also play a certain role in repairing the skin. When the skin is stimulated by the outside world, such as ultraviolet irradiation, chemical substance contact, etc., it can regulate the reaction of nerve endings in the skin, make the skin feel more comfortable, and repair the skin barrier. In addition, the endophytic yeast extract from the bark of Quercus variabilis can reshape the extracellular matrix, that is, prevent skin lipid peroxidation, increase the total chain length of lipids to improve the tightness of lipids, significantly promote the production of endogenous ceramides, and then enhance the integrity of the skin barrier and improve the moisturizing and water replenishing effect.

[0020] Preferably, based on a total of 150 parts by weight of the moisturizing and water replenishing composition, it includes the following components in parts by weight: 18.4 - 73 parts of three-dimensional colloid, 3.5 - 70 parts of lecithin, 0.5 - 10 parts of phytosterol, 0.3 - 6 parts of composite vegetable oil, 10 - 70 parts of glycerol, 2.7 - 70 parts of polyol, and the balance is water; the three-dimensional colloid includes the following components in parts by weight: 2 - 5 parts of cellulose gum, 5.5 - 20 parts of sodium alginate, 0.9 - 18 parts of ceramide, and 10 - 30 parts of yeast extract.

[0021] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a preparation method of the moisturizing and water replenishing composition, including: S1: Mix cellulose gum, sodium alginate and water to obtain a pre-gel dispersion; S2: Mix yeast extract and polyol, inject them into the pre-gel dispersion, and mix evenly to obtain a three-dimensional colloid dispersion; S3: Mix the three-dimensional colloid dispersion with other components to obtain the moisturizing and water replenishing composition.

[0022] Preferably, step S3 includes: S3.1: Mix lecithin, phytosterol and glycerol evenly, heat at 70 - 75 °C for 8 - 10 min to obtain mixture A; S3.2: Heat the composite vegetable oil to 70 - 75 °C, and then mix it with mixture A to obtain mixture B; S3.3: Heat the three-dimensional colloid dispersion at 70 - 75 °C for 8 - 10 min, and then mix it with mixture B.

[0023] Preferably, in step S2, ceramide is mixed with yeast extract and polyol together.

[0024] Preferably, in step S2, the injection speed into the pre-gel dispersion is 0.5-2 mL / min.

[0025] In a third aspect, the present invention provides use of the moisturizing and hydrating composition in cosmetics.

[0026] When used in cosmetics, the moisturizing and hydrating composition of the present invention is derived from nature and does not contain harmful chemical synthetic substances, so it can greatly reduce the risk of causing skin allergies, irritation and other adverse reactions. In addition, the ingredients of the composition are more compatible with the physiological structure and composition of human skin, and can act on the skin gently and effectively, helping to repair damaged skin barrier function and resist the damage of external environmental factors to the skin.

[0027] Preferably, the cosmetic is lotion, emulsion, essence, ointment or cream.

[0028] Preferably, the cosmetic comprises a matrix and the moisturizing and hydrating composition, and the matrix comprises at least one of oil, emulsifier, humectant, solvent, skin conditioner, thickener, solubilizer, fragrance and preservative.

[0029] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages: (1) In the moisturizing and hydrating composition of the present invention, through the mutual coordination between the various components and the design of the three-dimensional colloid (the yeast extract is loaded in a matrix composed of cellulose gum and sodium alginate), the composition can be used in cosmetics to improve the moisturizing and hydrating effect of the cosmetics to a greater extent, prolong its moisturizing and hydrating time, and at the same time play a role in repairing the skin barrier.

[0030] (2) Since the ingredients in the moisturizing and hydrating composition of the present invention are derived from nature and do not contain harmful chemical synthetic substances, the risk of causing skin allergies, irritation and other adverse reactions can be greatly reduced.

[0031] (3) Since the ingredients in the moisturizing and hydrating composition of the present invention are more compatible with the physiological structure and composition of human skin, they can act gently and effectively on the skin, help repair damaged skin barrier function, and resist damage to the skin by external environmental factors. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0032] Figure 1 Relative mRNA expression levels of DSC3 and SPTLC2 genes in cells of different treatment groups.

[0033] Figure 2 Yeast extract release curve. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0034] The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the embodiments.

[0035] General Embodiment A moisturizing and hydrating composition, comprising a three-dimensional colloid and a composite vegetable oil; the three-dimensional colloid includes a matrix composed of cellulose gum and sodium alginate and yeast extract dispersed in the matrix; the composite vegetable oil includes perilla seed oil, sunflower seed oil and olive fruit oil.

[0036] In some specific embodiments, the mass ratio of perilla seed oil to sunflower seed oil is 1:1 - 2, the mass ratio of perilla seed oil to olive fruit oil is 1:2 - 3, and the mass ratio of sunflower seed oil to olive fruit oil is 1:1 - 2.

[0037] In some specific embodiments, ceramide is also dispersed in the matrix of the three-dimensional colloid; the moisturizing and hydrating composition further includes lecithin and phytosterol; the mass ratio of ceramide, composite vegetable oil and phytosterol is 8 - 9:2 - 4:4 - 7.

[0038] In some specific embodiments, the yeast extract is an endophytic yeast extract from the bark of Quercus variabilis.

[0039] In some specific embodiments, based on the total weight of 150 parts of the moisturizing and hydrating composition, it includes the following components in parts by weight: 18.4 - 73 parts of three-dimensional colloid, 3.5 - 70 parts of lecithin, 0.5 - 10 parts of phytosterol, 0.3 - 6 parts of composite vegetable oil, 10 - 70 parts of glycerol, 2.7 - 70 parts of polyol, and the balance is water.

[0040] In some specific embodiments, the three-dimensional colloid includes the following components in parts by weight: 2 - 5 parts of cellulose gum, 5.5 - 20 parts of sodium alginate, 0.9 - 18 parts of ceramide, and 10 - 30 parts of yeast extract.

[0041] A preparation method of the moisturizing and hydrating composition, comprising: S1: Mix cellulose gum, sodium alginate and water to obtain a pre-gel dispersion; S2: Mix yeast extract and polyol, inject into the pre-gel dispersion, and mix evenly to obtain a three-dimensional colloid dispersion; S3: Mix the three-dimensional colloid dispersion with other components to obtain the moisturizing and hydrating composition.

[0042] In some specific embodiments, step S3 includes: S3.1: Mix lecithin, phytosterol and glycerol evenly, heat at 70 - 75 °C for 8 - 10 min to obtain mixture A; S3.2: Heat the composite vegetable oil to 70 - 75 °C, and then mix it evenly with mixture A to obtain mixture B; S3.3: Heat the three-dimensional colloidal dispersion at 70 - 75 °C for 8 - 10 min, and then mix it evenly with mixture B.

[0043] In some specific embodiments, in step S2, mix ceramide with yeast extract and polyol together.

[0044] In some specific embodiments, in step S2, the injection rate into the pre-gel dispersion is 0.5 - 2 mL / min.

[0045] Application of the moisturizing and hydrating composition in cosmetics.

[0046] In some specific embodiments, the cosmetics are lotion, emulsion, essence, paste or cream.

[0047] In some specific embodiments, the cosmetics include a matrix and the moisturizing and hydrating composition, and the matrix includes at least one of oil, emulsifier, humectant, solvent, skin conditioner, thickener, solubilizer, fragrance and preservative. Specific examples The present invention will be described below through specific examples. It should be understood that these examples are only used to illustrate the present invention and not to limit the scope of the present invention. Without departing from the spirit and scope of the inventive concept, the changes and advantages that can be conceived by those skilled in the art are included in the present invention, and the scope of protection of the present invention is the appended claims and any equivalents thereof.

[0049] Unless otherwise defined, all technical terms and scientific terms used in the present invention have the same meaning as commonly understood by those of ordinary skill in the art to which the present disclosure belongs. The raw materials and equipment used in the present invention are conventional raw materials and equipment in the art and can be obtained from conventional commercial channels without special instructions; the methods used in the present invention are conventional methods in the art without special instructions.

[0050] The "yeast extract" used in the following examples, comparative examples and test examples is the endophytic yeast extract from the bark of Quercus variabilis (SHILOXOMETM 73540, Provital). However, the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0051] Example 1 Prepare the moisturizing and hydrating composition of this example according to the following steps, and further make it into cosmetics: S1: Prepare the moisturizing and hydrating composition S1.1: Prepare materials according to the formula shown in Table 1.

[0052] S1.2: Add cellulose gum and sodium alginate to deionized water at room temperature, and stir until evenly mixed to obtain a pre-gel dispersion.

[0053] S1.3: Stir the yeast extract, ceramide, and pentylene glycol at room temperature until they are uniformly mixed, and then inject the mixture into the pre-gel dispersion at a rate of 1 mL / min using an injection pump. Stir until uniformly mixed to obtain a three-dimensional colloidal dispersion.

[0054] S1.4: Stir the lecithin, phytosterol, and glycerol at room temperature until uniformly mixed, and then heat the mixture to 70 °C and keep it warm for 10 min to obtain mixture A.

[0055] S1.5: Heat the perilla seed oil, sunflower seed oil, and olive fruit oil to 70 °C, stir until uniformly mixed, and then add the mixture to mixture A. Stir until uniformly mixed to obtain mixture B.

[0056] S1.6: Heat the three-dimensional colloidal dispersion to 70 °C and keep it warm for 10 min, then add it to mixture B. Stir until uniformly mixed, and then cool to room temperature to obtain a moisturizing and hydrating composition.

[0057] S2: Prepare cosmetics S2.1: Prepare materials according to the formula in Table 2, and mix the corresponding components to obtain phase A, phase B, phase C, phase D, and phase E.

[0058] S2.2: Heat phase A and phase B to 85 °C respectively. After complete dissolution, add phase B to phase A and homogenize for 2 min. Then add phase C and homogenize for 2 min. Then stir and cool to 40 °C, add phase D, stir evenly, and then add phase E and stir evenly to obtain cosmetics.

[0059] Comparative Example 1 Prepare the moisturizing and hydrating composition of this comparative example according to the following steps: After preparing materials according to the formula shown in Table 1, simply mix all the raw materials evenly at 70 °C to obtain the moisturizing and hydrating composition.

[0060] Comparative Example 2 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is only that: the moisturizing and hydrating composition is not added to the cosmetics. Specifically, the steps for preparing cosmetics in this comparative example are as follows: S1: Prepare materials according to the formula in Table 2, and mix the corresponding components to obtain phase A, phase B, phase C, phase D, and phase E.

[0061] S2: Heat phase A and phase B to 85 °C respectively. After complete dissolution, add phase B to phase A and homogenize for 2 min. Then add phase C and homogenize for 2 min. Then stir and cool to 40 °C, add phase E, stir evenly to obtain cosmetics.

[0062] Comparative Example 3 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is only that: instead of pre - preparing the moisturizing and hydrating composition, each raw material in the moisturizing and hydrating composition is dispersed and added to the cosmetic according to its properties. Specifically, the steps for preparing the cosmetic in this comparative example are as follows: S1: Prepare materials according to the formula in Table 2, and mix the corresponding components to obtain Phase A, Phase B, Phase C, Phase D and Phase E.

[0063] S2: Heat Phase A and Phase B to 85 °C respectively. After complete dissolution, add Phase B to Phase A and homogenize for 2 min. Then add Phase C and homogenize for 2 min. Then stir and cool to 40 °C, add Phase D, stir evenly, and then add Phase E and stir evenly to obtain the cosmetic.

[0064] Comparative Example 4 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is only that: during the preparation of the moisturizing and hydrating composition, yeast extract is not added. Specifically, the steps for preparing the moisturizing and hydrating composition and the cosmetic in this comparative example are as follows: S1: Prepare the moisturizing and hydrating composition S1.1: Prepare materials according to the formula shown in Table 1.

[0065] S1.2: Add cellulose gum and sodium alginate to deionized water at room temperature and stir until evenly mixed to obtain a pre - gel dispersion.

[0066] S1.3: Stir ceramide and pentylene glycol at room temperature until evenly mixed, and inject them into the pre - gel dispersion at a rate of 1 mL / min through an injection pump, and stir until evenly mixed to obtain a three - dimensional colloid dispersion.

[0067] S1.4: Stir lecithin, phytosterol and glycerol at room temperature until evenly mixed, heat to 70 °C and keep warm for 10 min to obtain mixture A.

[0068] S1.5: Heat perilla seed oil, sunflower seed oil and olive fruit oil to 70 °C, stir until evenly mixed, and then add them to mixture A and stir until evenly mixed to obtain mixture B.

[0069] S1.6: Heat the three - dimensional colloid dispersion to 70 °C and keep warm for 10 min, then add it to mixture B, stir until evenly mixed, and cool to room temperature to obtain the moisturizing and hydrating composition.

[0070] S2: Prepare the cosmetic S2.1: Prepare materials according to the formula in Table 2, and mix the corresponding components to obtain Phase A, Phase B, Phase C, Phase D and Phase E.

[0071] S2.2: Heat phase A and phase B to 85 °C respectively. After complete dissolution, add phase B to phase A and homogenize for 2 min. Then add phase C and homogenize for 2 min. Then stir and cool to 40 °C, add phase D and stir evenly, then add phase E and stir evenly to obtain the cosmetic product.

[0072] Table 1 Formulations of the moisturizing and hydrating compositions in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 4 Note: The dosages of each component in Table 1 are expressed in parts by weight.

[0073] Table 2 Formulations of the cosmetic products in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 - 4 Note: The dosages of each component in Table 2 are expressed in parts by weight; the dosage of water being "to 100" means adding water until the total sum of all raw materials in the cosmetic product is 100 parts.

[0074] Test Example 1: Effects of the moisturizing and hydrating composition on the expression levels of DSC3 and SPTLC2 genes in cells The protein encoded by the DSC3 (desmocollin 3) gene is one of the components of desmosomes. Desmosomes are an intercellular junction structure mainly present between epithelial cells and play a key role in cell - cell adhesion. In the skin, DSC3 helps with the tight connection between keratinocytes, enhancing the mechanical stability of the skin. When DSC3 is normally expressed, keratinocytes can be closely arranged, reducing water loss and maintaining the skin's barrier function.

[0075] The protein encoded by the SPTLC2 (serine palmitoyltransferase long - chain base subunit 2) gene is a subunit of the serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) complex. In the initial step of sphingolipid biosynthesis, the SPT complex (including SPTLC2) plays a core role. This complex is mainly responsible for catalyzing the first reaction of sphingolipid synthesis, that is, converting serine and palmitoyl - CoA into 3 - keto - dihydrosphingosine. This reaction is a key upstream link in ceramide synthesis. Ceramide belongs to sphingolipids, so this initial reaction participated by SPTLC2 provides the necessary precursor for ceramide synthesis. When the SPTLC2 gene is normally expressed, it can ensure sufficient synthesis of 3 - keto - dihydrosphingosine, providing sufficient raw materials for subsequent ceramide production and enabling the smooth progress of ceramide synthesis.

[0076] Therefore, in this test example, the expression levels of DSC3 and SPTLC2 genes were detected to evaluate the effect of the moisturizing and hydrating composition. The specific steps are as follows: (1) Seed HaCat cells in the logarithmic phase at 3×105 ~5×10 5 Cells were inoculated into 6-well plates at a density of ~5×10 cells / mL for cell culture. The initial culture was for 24 h. After the cells adhered well, no substances were added to the control group, and four experimental groups were set up and the following substances were added respectively: ceramide (addition amount was 0.00375%); 0.005% yeast extract (addition amount was 0.005%); the moisturizing and hydrating composition sample prepared in Example 1 (addition amount was 0.25%); the moisturizing and hydrating composition sample prepared in Comparative Example 1 (addition amount was 0.25%). The culture medium of the cells was changed, and then the cells were cultured for another 48 h for the next experimental operation.

[0077] (2) After rinsing HaCat cells twice with PBS solution, 1 mL of Trizol lysis solution was added to each sample well to lyse the cells. Then, 200 μL of chloroform was added. After thorough mixing, the upper liquid was obtained by centrifugation and transferred to a 1.5 mL centrifuge tube. Then, an equal volume of isopropanol was added and mixed well followed by centrifugation. A trace amount of RNA precipitate could be seen at the bottom of the tube. The supernatant was carefully discarded. 1 mL of freshly prepared 75% ethanol was added to each tube, and the precipitate was gently washed by inverting the tube. After centrifugation, the supernatant was discarded. The precipitate was washed again with 1 mL of ethanol and the supernatant was discarded after centrifugation. The centrifuge tube was inverted on absorbent paper to dry it, and DEPC water (about 10 - 25 u) was added according to the amount of the white precipitate to dissolve the RNA precipitate. The RNA concentration was detected by a Nano Drop instrument. After meeting the standard concentration and purity, the next step was carried out.

[0078] (3) The reverse transcription reaction was carried out using the HiScript III RT SuperMix specific kit. Using the mRNA therein as a template, reverse transcriptase was used to reverse transcribe it into cDNA; the RT-qPCR reaction was carried out using the SYBR qPCR Master Mix specific kit. Using cDNA as a template and binding primers for PCR amplification to obtain the expression of the target gene.

[0079] (4) GAPDH was selected as the internal reference gene for control. The 2 -ΔΔCt method was used to calculate the relative expression levels of the target genes of the cells in each treatment group, so as to obtain accurate and reliable quantitative results.

[0080] The detection results of the control group and each experimental group are shown in Figure 1 . From Figure 1It can be seen that when the 4 kinds of samples act on HaCaT cells, the expressions of DSC3 and SPTLC2 both increase. Among them, compared with using ceramide and yeast extract alone, when using the moisturizing and hydrating composition sample of Example 1, the increase in the expression levels of DSC3 and SPTLC2 is greater, indicating that the moisturizing and hydrating composition in Example 1 has a strong effect on moisturizing and promoting ceramide synthesis, and can achieve a better skin barrier repair function. Compared with the moisturizing and hydrating composition sample of Comparative Example 1, when using the sample of Example 1, the effect of increasing the expression levels of DSC3 and SPTLC2 is better, indicating that by loading yeast extract in the three-dimensional colloid, the present invention can enhance the skin barrier repair function of the moisturizing and hydrating composition.

[0081] Test Example 2: Sustained-release effect of three-dimensional colloid on yeast extract Take 4.5 mL of the three-dimensional colloid dispersion prepared according to the method in Example 1 and 4.5 mL of the yeast extract aqueous solution (the mass of the yeast extract contained in the three-dimensional colloid dispersion and the yeast extract aqueous solution is the same), and transfer them into dialysis bags respectively, then put them into a beaker containing 50 mL of PBS, and stir outside the bag with a magnetic stirrer. Take 3 mL of the dialysis solution outside the bag every 0.5 h for the first three hours and supplement 3 mL of PBS, and then sample once every 1 h. The total dialysis duration is 7 h. The total sugar content of the release medium is measured by the phenol-sulfuric acid method to characterize the release amount of the yeast extract, and the cumulative release amount C is calculated R , and the results are shown in Figure 2 . In the experiment, in order to reduce the influence of water evaporation, the beaker was sealed with plastic wrap.

[0082] It can be seen from Figure 2 that the release rate of the yeast extract in the three-dimensional colloid is significantly lower than that of the aqueous solution, indicating that the three-dimensional colloid has an obvious sustained-release effect; after 7 h, the release rate of the yeast extract in the three-dimensional colloid can be as high as 95%, indicating that the active substance can be completely released. The release behavior of yeast in the three-dimensional hydrocolloid conforms to the first-order kinetic equation, Figure 2 and the dotted line in

[0083] is the continuous curve obtained by fitting. It can be seen that the experimental data coincide well with the continuous curve. The fitting data are listed in Table 3. Type First-order kinetic equation <![CDATA[R 2 > Release rate k Three-dimensional colloid <![CDATA[C R = 1 - e -0.4254t > 0.9891 0.4256 Aqueous solution of yeast extract <![CDATA[C R = 1 - e -0.4064t > 0.9392 0.4956 It can be seen from the data in Table 3 that the correlation coefficient (R 2 ) of the fitting curve reaches more than 0.9, indicating good correlation; the k value is the first-order rate coefficient, and its size is an important index to measure the release rate of the yeast extract. The larger the k value, the faster the release rate. It can be seen that the three-dimensional colloid has an obvious sustained-release effect.

[0084] Test Example 3: Influence of the moisturizing and hydrating composition on the moisturizing and hydrating effect of cosmetics (measurement of stratum corneum water content) Take the cosmetics prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4, and conduct a moisturizing and hydrating effect test. The experimental settings are as follows: (1) Instrument: Skin moisture tester Corneometer.

[0085] (2) Detection index: Water content of the skin stratum corneum.

[0086] (3) Number of subjects: 30 people.

[0087] (4) Test area: The area is at least 3 cm × 3 cm, with a spacing of 1 cm.

[0088] (5) Dosage: The test sample is evenly applied once at a dosage of (2.0 ± 0.1) mg / cm 2 of.

[0089] (6) Procedure: Wash the arms and calves half an hour before the measurement. After stabilization, measure the blank index of the skin in the designated experimental area. After the measurement, apply the sample to the area designated by the subject. Measure once at 0, 0.5, 1, 2, 4, and 6 h on the first day (denoted as T0 to T5 respectively), and measure again on the third day (denoted as T6) and the seventh day (denoted as T7).

[0090] The test results are shown in Table 4.

[0091] Table 4 Test results of the moisturizing and hydrating effects of the cosmetics in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 (stratum corneum water content) Test Example 4: Influence of the moisturizing and hydrating composition on the moisturizing effect of cosmetics (measurement of transepidermal water loss) Take the cosmetics prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4, and conduct a moisturizing and hydrating effect test. The experimental settings are as follows: (1) Instrument: Skin water loss tester Tewameter.

[0092] (2) Detection index: Transepidermal water loss.

[0093] (3) Number of subjects: 30 people.

[0094] (4) Test area: The area is at least 3 cm × 3 cm, with a spacing of 1 cm.

[0095] (5) Dosage: The test sample is evenly applied once at a dosage of (2.0 ± 0.1) mg / cm 2 of.

[0096] (6) Steps: Wash the arms and calves half an hour before the measurement. After stabilization, measure the blank index of the experimental area on the skin. After the measurement, apply the sample to the area demarcated by the subject. Measure once at 0, 0.5, 1, 2, 4, and 6 h on the first day (denoted as T0 - T5 respectively), and measure again on the third day (denoted as T6) and the seventh day (denoted as T7).

[0097] The test results are shown in Table 5.

[0098] Table 5 Detection Results of the Moisturizing Effects of the Cosmetics in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 - 4 (Transdermal Water Loss) It can be seen from the data in Table 4 and Table 5 that: (1) Compared with Comparative Example 2, after using the cosmetics of Example 1, the increase rate of the water content in the stratum corneum of the arms and calves at 6 h, on the third day, and on the seventh day is relatively large, and the reduction rate of transdermal water loss is also relatively large. It shows that by adding the moisturizing and hydrating composition of the present invention, the instant moisturizing and long - term moisturizing effects of the cosmetics can be effectively improved, and the skin barrier function can be improved.

[0099] (2) Compared with Comparative Example 3, after using the cosmetics of Example 1, the increase rate of the water content in the stratum corneum of the arms and calves at 6 h, on the third day, and on the seventh day is relatively large, and the reduction rate of transdermal water loss is also relatively large. It shows that compared with the dispersed addition, after preparing the moisturizing and hydrating composition by the method of the present invention and then adding it to the cosmetics, the instant moisturizing and long - term moisturizing effects of the cosmetics can be improved to a greater extent, and the skin barrier function can be improved.

[0100] (3) Compared with Comparative Example 4, after using the cosmetics of Example 1, the increase rate of the water content in the stratum corneum of the arms and calves at 6 h is relatively large, the increase rate of the water content in the stratum corneum of the arms and calves on the third day and the seventh day is relatively large, and the reduction rate of transdermal water loss of the arms and calves at 6 h, on the third day, and on the seventh day is relatively large. It shows that by adding yeast extract to the moisturizing and hydrating composition of the present invention, the instant moisturizing effect of the cosmetics can be improved, and to a certain extent, its long - term moisturizing effect can be improved, and the skin barrier function can be improved.

[0101] Examples 2 - 3 and Comparative Examples 5 - 8 In Examples 2 - 3 and Comparative Examples 5 - 8, the moisturizing and hydrating composition and cosmetics were prepared according to the method in Example 1, and the only difference from Example 1 was that the ratio between perilla seed oil and sunflower seed oil in the moisturizing and hydrating composition was changed. The specific formula is shown in Table 6; the remaining steps were the same as those in Example 1.

[0102] Table 6 Formulations of the moisturizing and hydrating compositions in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 5 to 8 Test Example 5: Influence of the ratio of sunflower seed oil to olive fruit oil on the moisturizing and hydrating effect of cosmetics. Take the cosmetics prepared in Examples 2 to 3 and Comparative Examples 5 to 8, and conduct the moisturizing and hydrating effect test according to the method in Test Example 3. The detection site is the calf, and the detection time points are 0 and 6 h on the first day (denoted as T0 and T1 respectively), the third day (denoted as T2), and the seventh day (denoted as T3). The test results are shown in Table 7.

[0103] Table 7 Test results of the moisturizing effect of the cosmetics in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 5 to 8 (water content of the stratum corneum) It can be seen from the data in Table 7 that: Compared with Comparative Examples 5 to 8, after using the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 3, the improvement range (increase rate) of the water content of the calf stratum corneum at 6 h, the third day, and the seventh day is relatively large. It shows that when perilla seed oil and sunflower seed oil are used in combination, a synergistic effect can be produced between them, thereby improving the immediate and long-term moisturizing effects of cosmetics to a greater extent; and, the ratio between perilla seed oil and sunflower seed oil will affect this synergistic effect. The reason for the analysis is that: perhaps because perilla seed oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids such as α-linolenic acid, which has good permeability and moisturizing properties, can penetrate deep into the bottom layer of the skin, supplement moisture to the skin, and form a thin oil film on the skin surface to reduce water loss. Sunflower seed oil contains rich unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid. Linoleic acid is an important component of the skin cell membrane, which helps to maintain the skin barrier function and enhance the skin's moisturizing ability. At the same time, it can also prevent the water in the skin from being lost through the epidermis, playing a role in moisturizing and locking water. Unsaturated fatty acids such as α-linolenic acid in perilla seed oil and linoleic acid in sunflower seed oil are easily oxidized, while the natural antioxidants such as vitamin E contained in them can prevent this oxidation process. The antioxidant components such as rosmarinic acid in perilla seed oil and vitamin E in sunflower seed oil act synergistically to more effectively scavenge free radicals in the skin, reduce oxidative damage, protect the skin barrier function, enable the skin to better retain moisture, and indirectly enhance the moisturizing effect.

[0104] Examples 4 to 5 and Comparative Examples 9 to 10 In Examples 4 to 5 and Comparative Examples 9 to 10, the moisturizing and hydrating compositions and cosmetics were prepared according to the method in Example 1, and the difference from Example 1 was only that: the ratio between perilla seed oil and olive fruit oil in the moisturizing and hydrating composition was changed, and the specific formulations are shown in Table 8; the remaining steps were the same as those in Example 1.

[0105] Table 8 Formulations of the moisturizing and hydrating compositions in Examples 1, 4, 5 and Comparative Examples 9, 10 Group Comparative Example 9 Example 4 Example 1 Example 5 Comparative Example 10 Ceramide 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Perilla seed oil 0.21 0.14 0.12 0.105 0.084 Sunflower seed oil 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 Olive fruit oil 0.21 0.28 0.3 0.315 0.336 Phytosterol 1 1 1 1 1 Lecithin 8 8 8 8 8 Yeast extract 18 18 18 18 18 Cellulose gum 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Sodium alginate 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 Pentylene glycol 9 9 9 9 9 Glycerol 20 20 20 20 20 Deionized water 31.6 31.6 31.6 31.6 31.6 Test Example 6: Influence of the ratio of perilla seed oil to olive fruit oil on the moisturizing and hydrating effect of cosmetics Take the cosmetics prepared in Examples 4 - 5 and Comparative Examples 9 - 10, and conduct the moisturizing and hydrating effect test according to the method in Test Example 3. The detection site is the calf, and the detection time points are 0 h and 6 h on the first day (denoted as T0 and T1 respectively), the third day (denoted as T2), and the seventh day (denoted as T3). The test results are shown in Table 9.

[0106] Table 9 Test results of the moisturizing effect of the cosmetics in Examples 1, 4, 5 and Comparative Examples 9, 10 (water content of the stratum corneum) Comparative Example 9 Example 4 Example 1 Example 5 Comparative Example 10 T0 mean / % 36.54 35.44 37.22 38.52 34.28 T1 mean (6h) / % 52.26 51.94 55.02 56.32 48.98 Increase rate from 0h to 6h / % 43.02 46.56 47.82 46.21 42.88 T2 mean (D3) / % 48.27 48.71 51.72 53.17 45.60 Increase rate from 0h to D3 / % 32.10 37.44 38.96 38.03 33.02 T3 mean (D7) / % 47.51 48.40 51.07 52.56 44.40 Increase rate from 0h to D7 / % 30.02 36.57 37.21 36.45 29.52 It can be seen from the data in Table 9 that: Compared with Comparative Example 9 and Comparative Example 10, after using the cosmetics of Examples 1, 4, and 5, the improvement amplitude (increase rate) of the water content in the calf stratum corneum at 6 h, the third day, and the seventh day is relatively large. This indicates that the ratio between perilla seed oil and olive fruit oil will affect the moisturizing and hydrating effect of cosmetics. The reason for the analysis is as follows: It may be because oleic acid in olive fruit oil (which has a similar structure to the oil components in the skin) can effectively improve the penetration efficiency of the active ingredients (such as antioxidant rosmarinic acid) in perilla seed oil into the skin. When the two act synergistically, a "double insurance" mechanism can be formed. Olive fruit oil can form a breathable protective film on the skin surface, which can not only effectively lock in moisture but also ensure normal skin respiration; while perilla seed oil can penetrate into the skin gaps with its active ingredients to achieve deep nourishment. When the ratio between perilla seed oil and olive fruit oil is set improperly, it will affect the above-mentioned cooperation effect and is not conducive to the improvement of the moisturizing and hydrating performance of cosmetics.

[0107] Examples 6 - 7 and Comparative Examples 11 - 12 In Examples 6 - 7 and Comparative Examples 11 - 12, the moisturizing and hydrating compositions and cosmetics were prepared according to the method in Example 1. The only difference from Example 1 is that the ratio between sunflower seed oil and olive fruit oil in the moisturizing and hydrating composition was changed. The specific formulations are shown in Table 10; the remaining steps are the same as those in Example 1.

[0108] Table 10 Formulations of the moisturizing and hydrating compositions in Examples 1, 6, 7 and Comparative Examples 11, 12 Group Comparative Example 11 Example 6 Example 1 Example 7 Comparative Example 12 Ceramide 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Perilla seed oil 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 Sunflower seed oil 0.32 0.24 0.18 0.16 0.12 Olive fruit oil 0.16 0.24 0.3 0.32 0.36 Phytosterol 1 1 1 1 1 Lecithin 8 8 8 8 8 Yeast extract 18 18 18 18 18 Cellulose gum 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Sodium alginate 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 Pentylene glycol 9 9 9 9 9 Glycerol 20 20 20 20 20 Deionized water 31.6 31.6 31.6 31.6 31.6 Test Example 7: Influence of the ratio of sunflower seed oil to olive fruit oil on the moisturizing and hydrating effects of cosmetics Take the cosmetics prepared in Examples 6-7 and Comparative Examples 11-12, and conduct moisturizing and hydrating effect tests according to the method in Test Example 3. The detection site is the calf, and the detection time points are 0 and 6 h on the first day (denoted as T0 and T1 respectively), the third day (denoted as T2), and the seventh day (denoted as T3). The test results are shown in Table 11.

[0109] Table 11 Detection results of the moisturizing effects of the cosmetics of Examples 1, 6, 7 and Comparative Examples 11, 12 (water content of the stratum corneum) Comparative Example 11 Example 6 Example 1 Example 7 Comparative Example 12 T0 mean / % 37.58 36.24 37.22 36.52 33.28 T1 mean (6h) / % 53.37 52.93 55.02 53.47 47.08 Increase rate from 0h to 6h / % 42.01 46.05 47.82 46.41 41.47 T2 mean (D3) / % 49.88 49.59 51.72 50.23 44.53 Increase rate from 0h to D3 / % 32.73 36.84 38.96 37.54 33.80 T3 mean (D7) / % 49.12 49.45 51.07 49.62 43.57 Increase rate from 0h to D7 / % 30.71 36.45 37.21 35.87 30.92 It can be seen from the data in Table 11 that: Compared with Comparative Examples 11 and 12, after using the cosmetics of Examples 1, 6, and 7, the increase rates of the water content in the calf stratum corneum at 6 h, on the third day, and on the seventh day are all relatively large. It shows that the ratio between olive fruit oil and sunflower seed oil will affect the moisturizing and hydrating effects of cosmetics. The reason for the analysis is as follows: Perhaps because the antioxidant polyphenols and tocopherols in olive fruit oil both have strong antioxidant capabilities, which can scavenge free radicals in the skin and reduce the damage of oxidative stress to the skin; sunflower seed oil is rich in vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids, having good moisturizing and moisturizing effects, and also having a certain antioxidant effect. When the two are compounded, the antioxidant effect of olive fruit oil can better protect the unsaturated fatty acids in sunflower seed oil from being oxidized, making its moisturizing and moisturizing effects more persistent; while when the ratio between olive fruit oil and sunflower seed oil is set improperly, it will affect the above-mentioned synergistic effect between the two, which is not conducive to the improvement of the moisturizing and hydrating performance of cosmetics.

[0110] The above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and do not impose any limitations on the present invention. Any simple modifications, changes, and equivalent transformations made to the above embodiments according to the technical essence of the present invention still fall within the protection scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. A moisturizing and hydrating composition, characterized in that, It includes a three-dimensional colloid and a composite vegetable oil; the three-dimensional colloid includes a matrix composed of cellulose gum and sodium alginate and yeast extract dispersed in the matrix; the composite vegetable oil includes perilla seed oil, sunflower seed oil and olive fruit oil.

2. The moisturizing and hydrating composition according to claim 1, wherein The mass ratio of the perilla seed oil to the sunflower seed oil is 1:1 to 2, the mass ratio of the perilla seed oil to the olive fruit oil is 1:2 to 3, and the mass ratio of the sunflower seed oil to the olive fruit oil is 1:1 to 2.

3. The moisturizing and hydrating composition according to claim 1, wherein Ceramide is also dispersed in the matrix of the three-dimensional colloid; the moisturizing and hydrating composition also includes lecithin and phytosterol; the mass ratio of the ceramide, the composite vegetable oil and the phytosterol is 8 to 9:2 to 4:4 to 7.

4. The moisturizing and hydrating composition according to claim 1, wherein The yeast extract is an endophytic yeast extract from the bark of Quercus variabilis Blume.

5. The moisturizing and hydrating composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, Calculated by 150 parts in total weight, it includes the following components in parts by weight: 18.4 to 73 parts of three-dimensional colloid, 3.5 to 70 parts of lecithin, 0.5 to 10 parts of phytosterol, 0.3 to 6 parts of composite vegetable oil, 10 to 70 parts of glycerol, 2.7 to 70 parts of polyol, and the balance is water; the three-dimensional colloid includes the following components in parts by weight: 2 to 5 parts of cellulose gum, 5.5 to 20 parts of sodium alginate, 0.9 to 18 parts of ceramide, and 10 to 30 parts of yeast extract.

6. A preparation method of the moisturizing and hydrating composition according to claim 5, characterized in that, It includes: S1: Mix cellulose gum, sodium alginate and water to obtain a pre-gel dispersion; S2: Mix yeast extract and polyol, inject them into the pre-gel dispersion, and mix well to obtain a three-dimensional colloid dispersion; S3: Mix the three-dimensional colloid dispersion with other components to obtain a moisturizing and hydrating composition.

7. The preparation method according to claim 6, wherein Step S3 includes: S3.1: Mix lecithin, phytosterol and glycerol well, heat at 70 to 75 °C for 8 to 10 min to obtain mixture A; S3.2: Heat the composite vegetable oil to 70 to 75 °C, and then mix it with mixture A to obtain mixture B; S3.3: Heat the three-dimensional colloid dispersion at 70 to 75 °C for 8 to 10 min, and then mix it with mixture B.

8. The preparation method according to claim 6, wherein In step S2, mix ceramide with yeast extract and polyol together.

9. The preparation method according to claim 6, characterized in that, In step S2, the injection speed into the pre-gel dispersion is 0.5 to 2 mL / min.

10. Use of the moisturizing and hydrating composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in cosmetics.

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