Use of aureobasidium pullulans extract, alone or in combination with C-glycoside, as cosmetic active ingredient

Through the combination of budding ceramoid yeast biomass extract and C-glycoside, the problem of the lack of natural cosmetic ingredients in the prior art to improve the function of the skin barrier, the effect of fighting skin aging and enhancing barrier functions is achieved, and the skin quality is improved.

CN120379642APending Publication Date: 2025-07-25LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202380086524.4
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-12-14
Filing Date
2023-12-13
Publication Date
2025-07-25

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

There is a lack of natural and environmentally friendly cosmetic ingredients in the prior art for improving and enhancing skin barrier function, especially effective ingredients to combat skin aging.

Method used

The combination of budding ceramoid yeast biomass extract and C-glycosides is used as a cosmetic active ingredient to improve and enhance the barrier function of the skin, especially by improving the differentiation and tight junction of keratinocytes.

Benefits of technology

Effectively improve and enhance skin barrier function, reduce wrinkles and fine lines, improve skin gloss and uniformity, and restore skin ductility, tension and elasticity.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one biomass extract of a yeast of the Aureobasidium pullulans species, characterized in that the extract comprises at least 25% sugar by weight of the dry matter of the extract, or the use of a composition comprising the extract as a cosmetic active ingredient.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for keratin materials, in particular to the anti-aging care of keratin materials, and more particularly to improving and / or enhancing the barrier function of the skin.

[0002] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" particularly denotes the skin, lips and / or eyelashes, especially the skin and / or lips, and preferably the skin of the body, including the scalp skin and / or the face, and more preferably the face. Background Art

[0003] It is known that the human skin consists of two tissues: the surface tissue (epidermis) and the deep tissue (dermis).

[0004] Skin aging is caused by the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. During the aging process, harmful changes in the structure and function of the skin occur. The main clinical signs resulting from these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, which are due to the relaxation and loss of tissue elasticity.

[0005] In addition, intrinsic aging, which causes skin changes, particularly leads to a slowdown in skin cell renewal, which is basically reflected in the appearance of harmful clinical changes (such as a reduction in subcutaneous adipose tissue) and the appearance of small wrinkles or fine lines, as well as histopathological changes, such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, the loss of vertical fibers in the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

[0006] The natural human epidermis is mainly composed of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes, which form the vast majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these types of cells contributes, via its own function, to the basic role played by the skin in the body, particularly the role of protecting the body against external attack factors (climate, ultraviolet rays, smoking, etc.), which is also referred to as the "barrier function".

[0007] Generally speaking, the skin is an organ that particularly has the basic physical barrier function of preventing water from escaping from the body to the outside and preventing external factors from penetrating to the inside.

[0008] The stratum corneum, which is produced by normal differentiation of healthy skin, performs a barrier function, which is the most important role of the epidermis. The main cells of the epidermis are keratinocytes, which are divided into four layers according to the level of differentiation and express various structural proteins. Corneodesmosomes are expressed in the upper part of the stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum, are stored in lamellar bodies and secreted outside the cells of the stratum corneum, connecting one keratinocyte to another. Lipids contained in the lamellar bodies of epidermal keratinocytes at the junction of the stratum corneum and stratum granulosum are secreted between keratinocytes, forming a lipid envelope between keratinocytes and acting as an epidermal permeability barrier in the form of a "brick and mortar" structure of corneocytes and the intercellular lipid layer.

[0009] If epidermal keratinocytes reach the stratum granulosum, they synthesize keratohyalin granules, which contain profilaggrin and loricrin. Covalent cross-linking of constituent proteins (such as involucrin and loricrin) requires transglutaminase (TGase), a calcium-dependent enzyme that catalyzes the formation of intermolecular isopeptide bonds between proteins. Among the nine TGases identified in humans, TGase 1, 3, and 5 are known to be involved in the formation of the cornified envelope. During keratinocyte differentiation, both TGase 1 and 3 are activated by limited proteolysis. These enzymes contribute to the sequential cross-linking of substrates in a cooperative manner.

[0010] If the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes is abnormal, it will lead to defects in skin barrier function and skin dehydration, and damage the skin.

[0011] Tight junctions are of particular interest because they are located at the center of this complex barrier system in the outermost viable layer (the stratum granulosum of the interfollicular epidermis and the companion layer of the hair follicle) and because they can respond very rapidly to stimuli.

[0012] Tight junctions are organelles that are essential for the development and function of most vertebrate organ systems because they allow epithelial and endothelial cells to create compositionally distinct fluid compartments.

[0013] Tight junctions form a continuous permeability barrier between adjacent cells, regulating the flow of molecules through the paracellular space.

[0014] They form the closest contact known in nature between adjacent cells. In fact, this closeness was once thought to be a fusion between the outer leaflets of adjacent bilayers. It is now known that it is not an absolute seal but contains discrete ion-selective pores that pass through the extracellular portion of the junction.

[0015] The extracellular part of the tight junction must perform two main tasks: forming an extremely tight intercellular adhesion that seals an area of the extracellular space, and generating adjustable pores for selective molecular screening.

[0016] In the prior art, Aureobasidium pullulans is basically used for fermenting organic animal or plant substances or for producing the specific polysaccharide pullulan.

[0017] Cosmetic compositions containing the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans or plant extracts fermented by Aureobasidium pullulans are also known, but there is no teaching describing the use of an Aureobasidium pullulans extract containing at least 25% sugar, especially for anti-aging effects and / or effects of improving and / or enhancing the skin barrier function.

[0018] The applicant has extremely unexpectedly found that the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast (especially Aureobasidium pullulans yeast identified in the microbiota of rose bushes growing on the Plateau de Provence in France), and more particularly its biomass extract, has significance as a cosmetic active ingredient (more particularly in the field of care of keratin materials, especially for combating the signs of skin aging and for improving and / or enhancing the skin's barrier function).

[0019] Therefore, the applicant has extremely unexpectedly found that the combination of a biomass extract of at least one Aureobasidium pullulans yeast and at least one C-glycoside makes it possible to effectively combat the signs of skin aging and to improve and / or enhance the skin's barrier function.

[0020] Therefore, as shown in the following examples, it has been confirmed that both the biomass extract of this Aureobasidium pullulans yeast itself and its combination with C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane are effective against: - the aging of cells in the epidermal compartment, - the migration of aged keratinocytes, - tight junctions, and - keratinocyte differentiation, which have never been described so far.

[0021] These effects help strengthen the skin barrier. This enhanced skin barrier contributes to the quality of the skin surface, making the skin tone shiny, uniform, and the skin smooth and soft.

[0022] The biomass extract of this Aureobasidium species yeast and this combination are also applied to compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, which are intended for the prevention and / or treatment of signs of skin aging; preferably for the prevention and / or treatment of skin signs related to skin that shows damage in its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, skin that shows damage in its tissue cohesion, thinning skin, wrinkled skin, and / or skin that shows damage in its surface appearance. The extract and the combination are preferably used topically.

[0023] The biomass extract of this Aureobasidium species yeast and this combination can more particularly enable the maintenance and / or restoration of the extensibility, tensity, firmness, softness, density, and / or elastic properties of the skin.

[0024] Finally, formulating environmentally friendly cosmetics has become a major challenge to meet new consumer expectations, especially regarding natural and / or environmentally friendly products (i.e., products whose design and development take into account their environmental impact).

[0025] Therefore, it is common practice to seek to replace synthetic or non-environmentally friendly compounds present in cosmetic compositions with natural ingredients and / or ingredients of natural origin. Summary of the Invention

[0026] Therefore, there is still a need for natural and / or naturally derived cosmetic active ingredients that can be used alone or in combination with other cosmetic active ingredients in cosmetic compositions, especially for combating skin aging, especially for improving and / or enhancing the skin's barrier function.

[0027] There is still a need for compositions that are compatible with current consumer demands, especially regarding the environment.

[0028] The present invention particularly relates to meeting all or some of these needs. Detailed Description

[0029] Therefore, according to one aspect thereof, the present invention provides the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one biomass extract of an Aureobasidium species yeast, characterized in that the extract contains at least 25% sugar by weight of the dry matter of the extract, or the use of a composition comprising the extract as a cosmetic active ingredient.

[0030] According to another aspect thereof, the present invention provides a composition, especially a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, which comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient, said cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one biomass extract of an Aureobasidium species yeast, especially an extract as defined below, and at least one C-glycoside, especially a C-glycoside as defined below, which is present in a mass ratio as defined below in particular.

[0031] The compositions according to the invention are particularly useful for preventing and / or treating signs of skin aging and / or for enhancing and / or improving the skin's barrier function.

[0032] Finally, according to another aspect thereof, the invention provides a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for keratin materials, which comprises at least one step of applying a composition as defined above and detailed below to said keratin materials, preferably to the skin.

[0033] The cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials (especially the skin) is non-therapeutic.

[0034] Thus, the present application also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention for combating signs of skin aging and / or for enhancing and / or improving the skin barrier function.

[0035] The term "biomechanical properties of the skin" as used herein means the extensibility, tensility, firmness, softness and / or elasticity properties of the skin.

[0036] The term "signs of skin aging" as used herein means any change in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether it is chronological aging and / or extrinsic aging, especially photo-induced aging or hormonal aging; among these signs, the following can be distinguished: - Wrinkled skin, which is especially reflected in the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines; - Skin showing impaired viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, or skin showing a lack of elasticity and / or extensibility and / or firmness and / or softness and / or tensility, which is especially reflected in the skin being shriveled, limp, loose or sagging; - Skin showing impaired cohesion of its tissues; - Thinned skin; and - Skin showing impaired surface appearance, which is especially reflected in impaired skin texture, such as roughness.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, "Aureobasidium pullulans" means any yeast of the family Dothioraceae, the genus Aureobasidium and the species Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0038] Other features, variations and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples. Detailed Description Extract of Aureobasidium pullulans

[0039] Aureobasidium pullulans, also known as black yeast, is ubiquitous, multi-extremotolerant and exists either as a filamentous fungus or in a unicellular form. Aureobasidium pullulans is well-known as a natural epiphyte of many plant species, such as apples and grapes. For several years, it has been used in biotechnology, for the production of several enzymes or for combating certain plant diseases, such as apple blight.

[0040] Thus, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises at least one extract from the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, said extract comprising at least 25% by weight of sugars based on the dry matter of the extract.

[0041] Advantageously, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast can be collected from roses, preferably roses growing on the Plateau de Provence (France); more preferably, the yeast is collected from the flowers and / or thorns and / or roots of the genus Rosa.

[0042] Preferably, Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from rose bushes (genus Rosa).

[0043] The genus Rosa includes more than 200 species, among which mention may be made of Rosa alba, Rosa alpina, Rosa canina, Rosa cinnamonea, Rosa gallica, Rosa repens, Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa stylosa, Rosa tomentosa or even Rosa villosa, Rosa floribunda.

[0044] More preferably, Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from hybrid roses, such as roses of the Rosa floribunda species, still more preferably hybrid roses of the Rosa floribunda delflobla variety, which can in particular be commercially obtained from the Delbard company (France) under the trade name Rose The Rosa floribunda delflobla variety is also described in 2020 / 0178431.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast according to the invention is not genetically modified.

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast according to the invention is derived from the strain registered at the yeast collection centre (CIRM) under the CLIB number 2138 on 13 January 2021.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "Aureobasidium pullulans extract" means an extract comprising at least one group of molecules, preferably an extract of the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast, which contains at least 25% by weight of sugars, calculated on the dry matter weight, relative to the total weight of the extract, and is obtained by any extraction method well known to those skilled in the art, such as by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, chemical hydrolysis or enzymatic hydrolysis. Such extraction methods are described in the publications Varelas V et al., Drug Test Anal. January 2016 and Du L et al., Molecules. January 23, 2020.

[0048] The extract according to the invention is not an extract of the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "yeast culture supernatant extract" means an extract that is not an extract of the biomass of an Aureobasidium pullulans culture.

[0050] According to one embodiment, Aureobasidium pullulans is ubiquitous and can therefore be present in several plant species. Preferably, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast is isolated from rose bushes, more preferably from the flowers and / or thorns and / or roots of the genus Rosa.

[0051] The Aureobasidium pullulans biomass is in particular produced from yeast obtained previously. This step is carried out in a medium suitable for its growth, such as a suitable culture medium, in a manner conventional to those skilled in the art, according to yeast culture methods. Examples of media suitable for culturing Aureobasidium pullulans biomass are described in "β-Glucan derived from Aureobasidium pullulans is effective for the prevention of influenza in mice", Muramatsu D, Iwai A, Aoki S, Uchiyama H, Kawata K, Nakayama Y, Nikawa Y, Kusano K, Okabe M, Miyazaki T, PLoS One. 2012. Preferably, a suitable culture contains at least one carbon source (such as a carbohydrate) and at least one nitrogen source. Preferably, the culture of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass is carried out between 20 °C and 30 °C. Once the biomass is obtained, an extraction step is carried out to obtain the active molecules, preferably the extraction of sugars.

[0052] The extract according to the invention contains at least 25% by weight of sugars, calculated on the dry matter weight of the extract. The extract according to the invention may also contain peptides and mineral ash.

[0053] Thus, the extract according to the invention contains sugars which represent at least 25% of the extract by weight of the dry matter of the extract. Preferably, the extract according to the invention contains at least 45% of sugars by weight of the dry matter of the extract.

[0054] The total sugar content in the cosmetic active ingredient can be determined by the Dubois method (Dubois M et al., Analytical Chemistry, 28, 3, 350 - 356, 1956). The total sugar content in the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is expressed as a percentage relative to the dry matter.

[0055] The size of the sugars present in the extract can be characterized by HPLC / RI chromatography. They can be in the form of monosaccharides or in the form of oligosaccharides; preferably, the oligosaccharides have a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

[0056] Particularly preferably, the oligosaccharides predominate in the extract according to the invention. Finally, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the sugars of the extract consist of at least 80% of oligosaccharides by weight of the dry matter of the sugars.

[0057] Preferably, the oligosaccharides in the extract are α - linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or β - linked glucose oligosaccharides.

[0058] α - linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligomers composed of D - glucose linked by an α linkage. These oligosaccharides present in the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can have a degree of polymerization (DP) between 2 and 10 units.

[0059] Furthermore, these oligosaccharides can have a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons. Preferably, they are present between 1.5 and 4 g / L.

[0060] β - linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligosaccharides composed of D - glucose linked by a β linkage. These oligosaccharides present in the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention have a degree of polymerization between 2 and 10 units and have a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons. Preferably, they are present between 1.5 and 4 g / L.

[0061] Thus, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention contains sugars having an oligosaccharide structure with a degree of polymerization (DP) of less than 10 (i.e., a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons).

[0062] The extract according to the invention also contains peptides. Preferably, these account for at least 30% by weight of the dry matter of the extract. The peptide content can be determined by measuring the total nitrogen content according to the Kjeldhal method (reference: Official method of analysis of the A.O.C., 12th edition, W Horwitz, E.D., New York, 15 - 60, 1975). The peptides have a molar mass of less than 2000 Da. The distribution and molar mass of the peptides can be determined by FPLC size exclusion chromatography (Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography), and the amount of each peptide fraction can be determined by spectrophotometric determination using the Lowry method (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the Folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265 - 275, 1951).

[0063] When the extract according to the invention contains mineral ash, the ash content is preferably between 8% and 18% by weight, even more preferably between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the dry matter of the extract. The crude ash content can be determined by weighing the residue from incinerating the sample in a muffle furnace at 550 °C. The nature of the minerals contained in the ash can be determined by optical emission spectroscopy (ICP / OES). The chloride ions contained in the ash are determined by titration with silver nitrate. Preferably, the mineral ash contained in the extract according to the invention contains calcium, phosphorus, chloride ions, magnesium, sulfur, and sodium.

[0064] The dry matter content of the extract can be determined by weighing the residue from drying the extract according to the invention in an oven at 105 °C until a constant weight is obtained. Preferably, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has the following dry matter content: 10 g / L to 40 g / L, even more preferably 17 g / L to 26 g / L.

[0065] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be in liquid form or in solid form.

[0066] When it is in liquid form, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is preferably the extract as previously described herein. It is in the form of a transparent, very pale yellow liquid with a faint odor. However, it can be colored and / or decolorized by any method known to those skilled in the art. The cosmetic active ingredient can also be combined with stabilizers or preservatives.

[0067] When in solid form, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention preferably consists of an Aureobasidium pullulans extract as previously described and a carrier selected from maltodextrin, gum arabic, soy lecithin or isomalt. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract represents at least 10% by weight of the cosmetic active ingredient and the carrier represents not more than 90% by weight of the cosmetic active ingredient.

[0068] In the case of the solid form in which the cosmetic active ingredient is combined with the carrier, the protein, sugar and ash contents in the cosmetic active ingredient are modified and the carrier generally consists mainly of sugars.

[0069] For the uses according to the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can optionally be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition comprising at least 0.0005% by weight of dry matter of said cosmetic active ingredient. In particular, the composition is in a form suitable for topical application, such as a cream or a lotion. Extraction method

[0070] The extract constituting or comprised in the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any method comprising at least one step of extracting the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast biomass. The extraction of the yeast biomass does not include the recovery of the supernatant of the yeast culture.

[0071] Before carrying out the method for obtaining the extract as such, it is necessary to produce the Aureobasidium pullulans biomass. This step is carried out in a medium suitable for its growth, such as a suitable culture medium, in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art, according to yeast culture methods. Once the biomass has been obtained, the extraction step can be carried out to obtain the active molecules, preferably sugars. The extraction step can be carried out by any method known to a person skilled in the art, such as by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, enzymatic lysis, chemical hydrolysis or enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0072] For example, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by carrying out the following steps: a. Culturing the Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium, preferably a suitable culture medium, b. Dissolving at least 50 g / L of the Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in water, c. Extracting, preferably extracting sugars, d. Heat treatment, preferably between 80 °C and 90 °C, e. Separating the soluble and insoluble phases and recovering the soluble phase, f. Purifying by molecular sorting and optionally decolorizing and deodorizing, and g. Optionally concentrating and sterile filtering.

[0073] Step d is a conventional heat treatment step for a person skilled in the art to stabilize the extract obtained after step c. In particular, such treatment avoids precipitation from certain molecules (such as proteins that may be present in the extract) or unwanted native enzymatic activities.

[0074] Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out by any method known to a person skilled in the art, such as by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. Preferably, the separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase that especially contains soluble sugars (such as oligosaccharides).

[0075] Optionally, the method includes a filtration step after recovering the soluble phase to remove any particles that are still in suspension. Thus, this filtration step allows purification of the recovered soluble phase and is carried out to remove high molecular weight molecules.

[0076] The product obtained at this stage can optionally be further concentrated and / or purified, preferably by successive ultrafiltration steps through filters of different porosities, retaining the filtrate at each stage, and / or by chromatographic-type methods.

[0077] The product obtained after filtration, before or after concentration and sterile filtration, is an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans and consists of a first form of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, which is in liquid form at this time.

[0078] The obtained extract can then be dried and optionally combined with a carrier to be in solid form. This stage can be carried out by performing the following steps: - Adding an atomized carrier (preferably maltodextrin) to the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans up to 90% (by mass / volume); - Then concentrating the solution under vacuum; - Removing any bacteria that may be present by heat treatment; - Atomizing to obtain a powder.

[0079] Viewed individually, the steps of the above method are common in the field of extracting active ingredients from natural raw materials, and a person skilled in the art can adjust their reaction parameters based on their general knowledge. Use and cosmetic method according to the present invention

[0080] According to one embodiment of the invention, the use according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended for the prevention and / or treatment of signs of skin aging and / or for enhancing and / or improving the skin's barrier function.

[0081] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the use according to the present invention is characterized in that it is intended for moisturizing the skin and / or for improving the quality of the skin surface, in particular for improving the skin gloss and / or for improving the uniformity of skin color and / or for reducing the micro-relief of the skin.

[0082] According to yet another embodiment, the use is characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredient is combined with at least one C-glycoside, in particular a C-glycoside as defined below.

[0083] As previously mentioned, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for keratin materials, which comprises at least one step of applying a composition according to the present invention as detailed below to the keratin materials, preferably to the skin.

[0084] According to a specific embodiment, the cosmetic method is characterized in that it is intended for preventing and / or treating signs of skin aging and / or for enhancing and / or improving the skin barrier function.

[0085] According to a specific embodiment, the cosmetic method is characterized in that it is intended for moisturizing the skin and / or improving the quality of the skin surface, in particular for improving the skin gloss and / or for improving the uniformity of skin color and / or for reducing the micro-relief of the skin.

[0086] The cosmetic method and use according to the present invention are carried out by topically applying a composition comprising a cosmetic active ingredient, which comprises at least one extract according to the present invention optionally combined with a C-glycoside.

[0087] Topical application includes externally applying such a cosmetic composition to the skin according to the common techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0088] By way of illustration, the cosmetic method or use according to the present invention can be carried out by topically (e.g., daily) applying such a composition, which can be formulated, for example, in the form of a cream, gel, essence, lotion, emulsion, cleansing milk, stick composition or after-sun composition, preferably in the form of an emulsion.

[0089] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated, for example, once or twice a day, for one or more days, and usually over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 - 15 weeks, with one or more stopping periods where appropriate.

[0090] According to another embodiment, the application is daily (once a day), and usually over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 - 15 weeks, with one or more stopping periods where appropriate.

[0091] In particular, as emerges from the examples below, the extract according to the invention has shown an improved effect on the ageing metabolic pathways (Example 4), or an improved effect in stimulating the migration of ageing keratinocytes and thus an anti-ageing efficacy (Example 5).

[0092] Furthermore, as is also evident from the examples given below, the extract according to the invention, alone or in combination with a C-glycoside, was tested especially against epidermal markers, in particular filaggrin, loricrin, claudin-1, ZO-1, CK10, TGK (encoded by the gene TGM1) and involucrin (Examples 6 and 8).

[0093] In particular, transglutaminase K (TGK), filaggrin and involucrin, CK10 and loricrin are markers of the differentiation of keratinocytes in the stratum corneum.

[0094] Furthermore, filaggrin and TGK are markers of the skin barrier function.

[0095] Claudin-1, occludin and ZO-1 (zonula occludens protein-1) are markers of tight junctions.

[0096] Furthermore, clinical tests were also carried out on the composition according to the invention containing the extract alone or in combination with a C-glycoside as previously described and a beneficial effect on the skin, in particular on the barrier function and microrelief, was confirmed (Example 7).

[0097] Thus, the extract according to the invention, alone or in combination with a C-glycoside, can stimulate the production of claudin proteins in the skin, induce an improvement in the intercellular cohesion and stimulate the production of proteins involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes in the skin. Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans and a C-glycoside C-glycoside

[0098] The C-glycoside (or C-glycoside derivative) according to the invention preferably has the following general formula (I): [Chemical formula 1] wherein: - R represents: - a saturated straight-chain C1 to C20, preferably C1 to C10, or an unsaturated C2 to C20, preferably C3 to C10 alkyl, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or cyclic C3 to C20, preferably C4 to C10 alkyl; - a saturated straight-chain C1-C20, preferably C2-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C2-C10, or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C20, preferably C4-C10 hydrofluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl; - phenyl or benzyl, - the hydrocarbon-based chain forming said group may optionally be interrupted by 1, 2, 3 or more heteroatoms selected from: oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, silicon, halogen atoms, - and may optionally be substituted by at least one group selected from: -OR4, -SR4, -NR4R5, -COOR4, -CONHR4, -CN, C1-C6 hydrofluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl, and / or C3-C8 cycloalkyl, and / or at least one optionally substituted C5-C18 cycloalkyl, aryl or heterocyclic group, - where R4 and R5 may each independently represent a hydrogen atom, or a straight-chain saturated C1-C30, preferably C3-C12, or unsaturated C2-C30, preferably C3-C12, or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C3-C30, preferably C4-C12 alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl; or a C6-C10 aryl, - X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, and preferably the -CH(OH)- group; - S represents a monosaccharide in the form of a pyranose and / or furanose and / or of the L and / or D series or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units and preferably up to 6 sugar units, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being optionally substituted by free hydroxyl groups and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which may be α or β, as well as its physiologically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates, and its isomers.

[0099] In the context of the present invention, the term "halogen" means chlorine, fluorine, bromine or iodine.

[0100] The term "aryl" denotes an aromatic ring optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, such as phenyl.

[0101] The term "C3-C8 cycloalkyl" denotes an aliphatic ring containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms, including for example cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.

[0102] Among the alkyl groups suitable for use in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and allyl.

[0103] The C-glycoside may correspond to formula (I), where S may represent a monosaccharide in the pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L- and / or D-series or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one hydroxyl functional group that must be free and / or optionally one or more amine functional groups that must be protected. In addition, X and R retain all the definitions given previously.

[0104] Advantageously, the monosaccharide according to the invention may be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously represents D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and more preferably D-xylose.

[0105] Advantageously, the polysaccharide according to the invention containing up to 6 sugar units may be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose, said xylose may advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and especially xylobiose composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 linkage.

[0106] More preferably, S may represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose and D-maltose, and still better is D-xylose.

[0107] Advantageously, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) may be used, where R represents a straight-chain, saturated C1-C20, preferably C1-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20 alkyl, preferably C3-C10 alkyl, or a branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C3-C20, preferably C4-C10 alkyl, and is optionally substituted as previously described. In addition, S and X retain all the definitions given previously.

[0108] More preferably, R may represent a straight-chain C1-C4 and preferably C1-C2 group, especially methyl, optionally substituted by -OH, -COOH or -COOR”2 (R”2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl). Still better, R may represent an unsubstituted straight-chain C1-C4 and preferably C1-C2 alkyl, such as methyl.

[0109] According to a preferred embodiment, in the C-glycosides of formula (I), those used are as follows: R represents a straight-chain saturated C1-C20, preferably C1-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C3-C10 alkyl, which is optionally substituted as previously described, or a branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C3-C20, preferably C4-C10 alkyl; S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, more preferably D-xylose; X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, and preferably the -CH(OH)- group.

[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, C-glycosides of formula (I) are used, wherein: R represents a straight-chain C1-C4 and preferably C1-C3 group, such as methyl, which is optionally substituted by -OH, -COOH or -COOR”2 (R”2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl); S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, more preferably D-xylose; X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, and preferably the -CH(OH)- group.

[0111] According to a preferred embodiment, C-glycosides of formula (I) can be used, wherein: R represents an unsubstituted straight-chain C1-C4 and preferably C1-C2 alkyl, such as methyl; S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, more preferably D-xylose; X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(CH2)- and -CH(OH)-, preferably the -CH(OH)- group; Acceptable salts for the non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of the compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. For example, salts of mineral acids (such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid or boric acid) can be mentioned. Salts of organic acids that may contain one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid groups can also be mentioned. They can be straight-chain, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids can also contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid can be particularly mentioned.

[0112] When the compound of formula (I) contains an acidic group, the acidic group can be neutralized with a mineral base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2; or with an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine such as triethylamine or butylamine. Such primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamines can contain one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and can thus contain, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-dimethylaminopropanol and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0113] Acceptable solvates of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparing the compounds due to the presence of a solvent. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates resulting from the presence of water or a straight-chain or branched-chain alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0114] Preferably, the C-glycosides of formula (I) used according to the present invention are selected from: 1. C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-propan-2-one; 2. C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-propan-2-one; 3. 1-[2-(3-hydroxypropylamino)propyl]-C-β-D-xylose; 4. 1-[2-(3-hydroxypropylamino)propyl]-C-α-D-xylose; 5. C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane; 6. C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane; 7. C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-aminopropane; 8. C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-aminopropane; 9. C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-phenylaminopropane; 10. C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-phenylaminopropane; 11. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-β-D-xylopyranosyl)butyrate; 12. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-α-D-xylopyranosyl)butyrate; 13. 6-(C-β-D-xylopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 14. 6-(C-α-D-xylopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 15. 6-(C-β-D-xylopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 16. 6-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 17. 6-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 18. 6-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 19. 6-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 20. 6-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 21. 1-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 22. 1-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 23. 5-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-oxopentanoic acid; 24. 5-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-oxopentanoic acid; 25. 5-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid; 26. 5-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid; 27. 5-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-aminopentanoic acid; 28. 5-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-aminopentanoic acid; 29. 5-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 30. 5-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)-4-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 31. 1-(C-β-D-Xylopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol; 32. 1-(C-α-D-Xylopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol; 33. 1-(C-β-D-Fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one; 34. 1-(C-α-D-Fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one; 35. 1-(C-β-L-Fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one; 36. 1-(C-α-L-Fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one; 37. 1-(C-β-D-Fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 38. 1-(C-α-D-Fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 39. 1-(C-β-L-Fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 40. 1-(C-α-L-Fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 41. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane; 42. 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane; 43. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane; 44. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane; 45. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane; 46. 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane; 47. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane; 48. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane; 49. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-butyrate; 50. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-butyrate; 51. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-butyrate; 52. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-butyrate; 53. 6-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 54. 6-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 55. 6-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 56. 6-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 57. 6-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 58. 6-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 59. 6-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 60. 6-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 61. 6-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 62. 6-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 63. 6-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 64. 6-(C-α-L-Fucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 65. 1-(C-β-D-Fucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 66. 1-(C-α-D-Fucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 67. 1-(C-β-L-Fucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 68. 1-(C-α-L-Fucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 69. 5-(C-β-D-Fucopyranosyl)-4-oxopentanoic acid; 70. 5-(C-α-D-Fucopyranosyl)-4-oxopentanoic acid; 71. 5-(C-β-L-Fucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol)-4-oxopentanoic acid; 72. 5-(C-α-L-Fucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol)-4-oxopentanoic acid; 73. 5-(C-β-D-Fucopyranosyl)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid; 74. 5-(C-α-D-Fucopyranosyl)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid; 75. 5-(C-β-L-Fucopyranosyl)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid; 76. 5-(C-α-L-Fucopyranosyl)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid; 77. 5-(C-β-D-Fucopyranosyl)-4-aminopentanoic acid; 78. 5-(C-α-D-Fucopyranosyl)-4-aminopentanoic acid; 79. 5-(C-β-L-Fucopyranosyl)-4-aminopentanoic acid; 80. 5-(C-α-L-Fucopyranosyl)-4-aminopentanoic acid; 81. 1-(C-β-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 82. 1-(C-α-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 83. 1-(C-β-L-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 84. 1-(C-α-L-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 85. 1-(C-β-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 86. 1-(C-α-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 87. 1-(C-β-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 88. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 89. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane; 90. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane; 91. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyrate; 92. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyrate; 93. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 94. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 95. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 96. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 97. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 98. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 99. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 100. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 101. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 102. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 103. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxopentanoic acid; 104. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxopentanoic acid; 105. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid; 106. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid; 107. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid; 108. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid; 109. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 110. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 111. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol; 112. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol; 113. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 114. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 115. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 116. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 117. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane; 118. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane; 119. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(β-D-galactopyranosyl)butyrate; 120. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(α-D-galactopyranosyl)butyrate; 121. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 122. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 123. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 124. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 125. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 126. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 127. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 128. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 129. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 130. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 131. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-oxopentanoic acid; 132. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-oxopentanoic acid; 133. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid; 134. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid; 135. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid; 136. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid; 137. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 138. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 139. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)pentane-2,6-diol; 140. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)pentane-2,6-diol; 141. 1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one; 142. 1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one; 143. 1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one; 144. 1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one; 145. 3'-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; 146. 3'-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; 147. 1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 148. 1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 149. 1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane; 150. 1-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane; 151. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)butyrate; 152. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)butyrate; 153. 6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 154. 6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxohexanoic acid; 155. 6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 156. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 157. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 158. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 159. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 160. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 161. 1-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 162. 1-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol; 163. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxopentanoic acid; 164. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-oxopentanoic acid; 165. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid; 166. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid; 167. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid; 168. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid; 169. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 170. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 171. 1-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol; 172. 1-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol.

[0115] Even more preferably, the C-glycosides used according to the present invention are selected from: -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-propan-2-one, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-propan-2-one, -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, its isomers or mixtures thereof.

[0116] Still better, the C-glycoside used in the context of the present invention is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and preferably C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, such as the product sold by Noveal under the name Mexoryl or Mexoryl The product sold, the INCI name of which is hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol or the product sold under the name Mexoryl which contains 35% by weight of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol in 40% by weight of water and 25% by weight of propylene glycol.

[0117] The C-glycoside may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the active material, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the active material, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 4% by weight of the active material, still better ranging from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of the active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as 0.6% or 3.2% by weight of the active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] In a preferred embodiment, the C-glycoside may be present in the composition in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight of the active material, preferably at least 0.5% by weight of the active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] The biomass extract of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast species may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight of dry matter, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight of dry matter, more preferably ranging from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter, and even better ranging from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight.

[0120] Preferably, the mass ratio [C-glycoside / biomass extract of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast species] is less than or equal to 50, more preferably the mass ratio [C-glycoside / biomass extract of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast species] is between 5 and 50, still better between 8 and 49. Form of the composition

[0121] The description of the composition is applicable to both the composition according to the invention and the composition which can form a cosmetic active ingredient containing the extract in the context of the use which is the subject of the invention.

[0122] Such a composition may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, especially for the body or the face, preferably for the face.

[0123] These compositions may constitute cleansing, protecting, treating or caring creams for the face, for the hands or for the body (including the skin of the scalp), such as day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams or hair shampoos or creams for the scalp.

[0124] In particular, the composition may be in the form of an anti-aging care, moisturizing or photoprotective composition, especially an anti-aging care composition, for the skin of the body or the face (especially the face).

[0125] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0126] More generally, the composition may be characterized by containing a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., a medium suitable for topical application of the composition, i.e., a medium compatible with the skin.

[0127] According to the invention, the physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e., odorless and without an unpleasant appearance, and which is fully compatible with the topical application route, i.e., has a pleasant color and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e., stinging, tightness or redness, which might prevent the user from applying the composition.

[0128] The composition according to the invention can be an aqueous solution, a water-alcohol solution, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple (triple: O / W / O or W / O / W) emulsion or a hydrogel, a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase (especially using spheres, which may be polymeric particles), or still better in the form of ionic and / or non-ionic lipid vesicles, or in the form of a powder, serum, paste or flexible wand or stick. It can have a solid, pasty or more or less fluid liquid consistency. These compositions are prepared according to conventional methods. Lipid phase

[0129] The composition may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0130] The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0131] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0132] The fatty phase suitable for preparing the composition according to the invention, especially a cosmetic composition, may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluorinated oil or a non-fluorinated oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0133] Preferably, the composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight of silicone oil, more preferably less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, still better less than 1% by weight, and more preferably is free of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] Compositions containing a limited content of silicone oil are advantageously more natural than compositions containing more than 5% or more by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, but are also lighter, less sticky and less rough to the touch, with a more delicate finish.

[0135] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0136] They can have an animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0137] The term "non-volatile" means an oil having a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure that is non-zero and less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0138] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0139] The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0140] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly containing one or more heteroatoms (such as oxygen or nitrogen atoms) and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. Thus, it can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0141] The oil can optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0142] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour when in contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure in the range from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular in the range from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly in the range from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0143] Mention may in particular be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8-C 16 alkanes, such as C8-C 16 isoparaffins (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isocetane and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls, branched C8-C 16 esters, such as isononyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0144] Mention may also be made of volatile straight-chain alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as those sold by Sasol under the indices 12-97 and n - dodecane (C 12 ) and n - tetradecane (C 14 ), and their mixtures, undecane - tridecane mixtures, mixtures of n - undecane (C 11 ) and n - tridecane (C 13 ) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures.

[0145] Also mention may be made of mixtures of the following straight - chain or branched alkanes, preferably mixtures of straight - chain or branched alkanes of vegetable origin: - Mixtures of branched alkanes, such as the product sold by SEPPIC under the name 15 -C 19 L15; - Mixtures of straight - chain and / or branched alkanes, such as the product sold by SEPPIC under the name -C 15 -C 19 L19. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon - based oil selected from: volatile straight - chain alkanes containing from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular undecane - tridecane mixtures, and straight - chain and / or branched C

[0146] -C 15 -C 19 alkanes, in particular mixtures of straight - chain and / or branched C 15 -C 19 alkanes.

[0147] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include straight - chain volatile silicone oils, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0148] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0149] Also mention may be made of non - volatile hydrocarbon - based oils, fluorinated oils and / or silicone oils.

[0150] Non - volatile hydrocarbon - based oils that may be particularly mentioned include: - Hydrocarbon - based oils of animal origin, such as squalane; - Hydrocarbon - based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: ο Petrolatum, ο Liquid paraffin, ο Polybutene, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco Corporation, ο Polyisobutene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as those sold by Nippon Oil Fats Company Panalane H-300E (MW = 1340 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco Corporation, Viseal 20000 (MW = 6000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Synteal Company, and Rewopal PIB 1000 (MW = 1000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Witco Company, ο Polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, such as Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals Company; decene / butene copolymer, ο Polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer, such as Indopol L-14, - Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytosqualane, - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether, - Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain (which is especially branched) containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters can especially be selected from esters of alcohols and fatty acids, such as cetearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, esters of alcohols or polyols and ricinoleic acid, hexyl laurate, neopentanoates, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoates, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, or isostearyl behenate; - Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetra-hydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol, - C 12-C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, -Carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate, -Non-phenyl silicone oils, such as octyl polymethylsiloxane, and -Phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethylsiloxane, phenyl dimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyl diphenyl trisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, polydimethylsiloxane or phenyl trimethylsiloxane having a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures of these various oils.

[0151] The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0152] The composition according to the invention may further comprise solid fat substances, such as fatty acids that are solid at room temperature, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, and palmitic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, montan wax, or microcrystalline wax, ozokerite or ceresin, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, fatty alcohol waxes, butters, such as vegetable butters; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyl polydimethylsiloxane and trifluoropropyl polydimethylsiloxane; and silicone elastomers, such as products sold by Shin-Etsu under the name KSG, by Dow Corning under the name Trefil or BY29, or by Grant Industries under the name Gransil.

[0153] As fatty alcohol waxes, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, melissyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

[0155] As butters, especially vegetable butters, mention may be made of avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, mango butter, coconut butter, almond butter, and shorea resin, and mixtures thereof, and especially shea butter.

[0156] These fat substances can be selected by those skilled in the art in different ways to prepare a composition having desired properties (such as in terms of consistency or texture).

[0157] The solid fatty substances may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. aqueous phase

[0158] The composition may comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0159] The aqueous phase may comprise water and optionally a water-miscible organic solvent.

[0160] The water used may be demineralized water and / or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and / or natural spring water or mineral water, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted spring water, i.e., water having the characteristics of spring water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc.

[0161] The water-miscible organic solvent that can be used in the composition according to the invention may also be volatile.

[0162] The composition may comprise water at a concentration ranging from 20% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Preferably, water is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 45% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] According to the invention, the term "water-miscible organic solvent" means an organic compound that is liquid at room temperature and has a water miscibility of greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.

[0165] Among the water-miscible organic solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, polyhydric alcohols, C3 and C4 ketones, and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0166] Among the lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, mention may be made of ethanol and isopropanol.

[0167] The term "polyhydric alcohol suitable for the present invention" means a compound of straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, which has at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, especially at least three -OH functional groups and more especially at least four -OH functional groups.

[0168] The polyhydric alcohols suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are in particular those containing especially 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0169] Among the polyhydric alcohols, mention may be made of pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, hexanediol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, isopentylene glycol, pentylene glycol, octanediol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol and polyethylene glycol.

[0170] When they are present, the water-miscible organic solvent is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content by weight ranging from 1% to 20%, still more preferably by weight ranging from 3% to 15%, and preferably by weight ranging from 5% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] The aqueous phase may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with the aqueous phase, such as a gelling agent, a film-forming polymer, a thickening agent or a surfactant and mixtures thereof.

[0172] Depending on the viscosity of the composition desired to be obtained, one or more thickening agents and / or gelling agents, especially hydrophilic ones, i.e. water-soluble or water-dispersible, may be incorporated into the composition.

[0173] Advantageously, the gelling agent is selected from hydrophilic polymer gelling agents of synthetic, natural or natural origin and mixtures thereof.

[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "of natural origin" is intended to mean a polymer gelling agent obtained by modifying a natural polymer gelling agent.

[0175] Synthetic polymer hydrophilic gelling agents may be selected from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, especially associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamide and optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.

[0176] Among crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked sodium polyacrylate may be mentioned, such as those sold by Avecia under the trade names Octacare X100, X110 and RM100, those sold by SNF under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500, those sold by BASF under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110, and those sold by Grain Processing under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer).

[0177] Among carboxyvinyl polymers, examples that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as products sold under the name (CTFA name: carbomer).

[0178] Among polyacrylamides and optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, mention may be made of the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), acrylamide and crosslinked anionic copolymer of AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) sold by Hoechst under the name AMPS, which is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those sold by SEPPIC under the name 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C 13-14 isoparaffin / laureth-7) and those sold under the name 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80).

[0179] Natural or naturally derived hydrophilic polymer gelling agents may be selected from modified or unmodified cellulose, carrageenan, gellan gum, agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds (especially sodium alginate), scleroglucan, guar gum, pullulan, cinnam gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic, and mixtures thereof. Active agent

[0180] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent.

[0181] Examples of active agents that may be mentioned include humectants, depigmenting agents, exfoliating agents, wetting agents, anti-aging agents, cicatrizing agents, and mixtures thereof. Surfactant

[0182] The composition according to the invention may comprise an emulsifying surfactant, which is preferably non-ionic.

[0183] Non-ionic surfactants may in particular be selected from alkyl or polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl or polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polysaccharides (especially alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides), alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] The oxyalkylenated alcohols preferably used (especially oxyethylenated alcohols and / or oxypropylenated alcohols) may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units, especially those containing from 20 to 100 ethylene oxide units, especially fatty alcohols, especially C8-C 24 fatty alcohols and preferably C 12 -C 18 fatty alcohols; these fatty alcohols may be ethoxylated or may not be ethoxylated, for example stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name steareth-20), for example sold by Uniqema under the name 78, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name ceteareth-30) and a mixture of C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name C 12-15 alkoxypolyol-7), for example sold by Shell Chemicals under the name Neodol ; or especially oxyalkylenated alcohols (oxyethylenated alcohols and / or oxypropylenated alcohols) containing from 1 to 15 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units, especially ethoxylated C8-C 24 fatty alcohols and preferably C 12 -C 18Fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name steareth-2), e.g., sold by Uniqema 72.

[0185] Optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan preferably used include those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, especially polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product sold by Uniqema 20, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO, or the product (RH 40, RH60, etc.) from BASF. A mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate may also be mentioned, which is sold by Croda under the name 2121U-FL.

[0186] Optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan preferably used include those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, especially polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product sold by Uniqema 11 -polyglycoside (1.4)), e.g., the product sold by Kao Chemicals under the name Mydol or the product sold by Henkel under the name Plantacare 2000 or the product sold by SEPPIC under the name Oramix NS ; octyl / decyl glucoside, e.g., the product sold by Cognis under the name Plantacare KE or the product sold by SEPPIC under the name Oramix CG ; lauryl glucoside, e.g., the product sold by Henkel under the name Plantacare 1200 or the product sold by Henkel under the name Plantaren 1200 ; coco glucoside, e.g., the product sold by Henkel under the name Plantacare 818 ; octyl glucoside, e.g., the product sold by Cognis under the name Plantacare 810 Products for sale; a mixture of arachidyl glucosyl, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, with the INCI name arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucosyl, sold by SEPPIC under the name 202 for sale; a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, with the INCI name cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside, sold by SEPPIC under the name 68 for sale, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] The compositions according to the invention or used as according to the invention may comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.1% to 30% by weight of an emulsifying surfactant, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight.

[0188] Unless otherwise specified, the expressions "between... and...", "comprising... to...", "formed from... to..." and "ranging from... to..." shall be understood as including the limiting values.

[0189] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown are expressed as mass percentages. Examples Example 1: Cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention

[0190] The active ingredient of Example 1 was obtained from Aureobasidium pullulans yeast isolated from rose bushes. The active ingredient of Example 1 was obtained by the following method: a. Culturing Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable medium, b. Dissolving the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast in water at a rate of 50 g / l, c. Extracting sugars, d. Heat treatment between 80 °C and 90 °C, e. Separating the soluble and insoluble phases, f. Purifying by molecular sorting, g. Concentrating, and h. Sterilizing filtration.

[0191] The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 20.1 g / L, where: - Total sugar content (according to the Dubois method) = 6.9 g / L (34% by weight relative to dry matter) i. Content of α-linked glucose oligosaccharides = 2.5 g / L ii. Content of β-linked glucose oligosaccharides = 2.5 g / L - Peptide content (according to the Kjeldhal method) = 6.6 g / L (33% by weight relative to dry matter) - Mineral ash content = 2.5 g / L (12% by weight relative to dry matter) - pH = 3.5 - Transparent, very pale yellow liquid, with a faint odor Example 2: Active ingredient other than the present invention The active ingredient of Example 2 was also obtained from Aureobasidium pullulans yeast isolated from rose bushes. The active ingredient of Example 2 was obtained by the following method: a. Culturing Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable medium, b. Dissolving the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast in water at a ratio of 50 g / l, c. Extracting proteins, d. Heat treatment between 80 °C and 90 °C, e. Separating the soluble phase and the insoluble phase, f. Purifying by molecular sorting, g. Concentrating, and h. Sterilizing filtration.

[0192] The obtained active ingredient has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 26.8 g / L, where: - Total sugar content (according to the Dubois method) = 2.5 g / L (9% by weight relative to dry matter) - Peptide content (according to the Kjeldhal method) = 12.4 g / L (46% by weight relative to dry matter) - Mineral ash content = 5 g / L (19% by weight relative to dry matter) - pH = 3.6 - Transparent, very pale yellow liquid, with a faint odor Example 3: Active ingredient other than the present invention The active ingredient of Example 3 was obtained from the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass.

[0193] a. Culturing Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable medium, b. Physically separating to recover the culture supernatant from the biomass c. Sterilizing filtration.

[0194] The obtained active ingredient has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 9.6 g / L, where: - Total sugar content (according to the Dubois method) = 1.6 g / L (17% by weight relative to dry matter) - Protein content (according to the Lowry method) = 0.11 g / L (1% by weight relative to dry matter) - Mineral ash content = 6.2 g / L (65% by weight relative to dry matter) - pH = 6.9 - Transparent, light yellow liquid with a faint odor. Example 4: Effect of the active ingredient according to the present invention on epidermal compartment cell aging

[0195] This study involves investigating the expression of certain genes and determining the content of certain proteins in keratinocytes treated with various extracts. The keratinocytes are aged using UVB free radical stress or are derived from elderly donors.

[0196] Table 1 lists the epidermal compartment genes regulated during aging by free radical stress. [Table 1] Symbols Names HSP90AA1 Heat shock protein 90 alpha family class A member 1 SIRT1 Silent information regulator 1

[0197] Table 2 lists the epidermal compartment proteins regulated during aging by free radical stress. [Table 2] Names Symbols Parkinson disease protein 7 DJ-1 Tumor necrosis factor receptor superfamily member 6 TNR6

[0198] The research results are presented in Tables 3 to 5 below. Table 3 shows the expression of genes HSP90AA1 and SIRT1 in keratinocytes subjected to UVB free radical stress and treated with various extracts. [Table 3]

[0199] The sugar-rich active ingredient according to the present invention (Example 1) has a better effect on the expression of genes HSP90AA1 and SIRT1 in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress than extracts other than the present invention (Examples 2 and 3).

[0200] Table 4 below shows the expression rates of proteins DJ-1 and TNR6 in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress and treated with various extracts. [Table 4]

[0201] The sugar-rich active ingredient according to the present invention (Example 1) has a better effect on the ratios of proteins DJ-1 and TNR6 in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress than extracts not according to the present invention (Examples 2 and 3).

[0202] Table 5 below shows the expression rate of protein DJ-1 in keratinocytes derived from elderly donors and treated with the active ingredient according to the present invention (Example 1). [Table 5]

[0203] The sugar-rich active ingredient according to the present invention (Example 1) has a significant effect on the expression rate of protein DJ-1 in keratinocytes from elderly donors. This result confirmed the results obtained on keratinocytes aged by free radical stress.

[0204] Therefore, the sugar-rich extract according to Example 1 has an impact on the aging metabolic pathways (HSP90AA1 +48%, SIRT1 +106%, DJ1 -54%, TNR6 -39%).

[0205] The protein-rich extract according to Example 2 has a much weaker impact on the aging metabolic pathways. Therefore, it is less effective compared to the extract according to Example 1.

[0206] The extract according to Example 3 obtained from the supernatant has no impact on the aging metabolic pathways in the epidermal compartment.

[0207] Therefore, the sugar-rich extract provides an improved impact on the aging metabolic pathways. Example 5: Effect of the active ingredient according to the present invention on the migration of aged keratinocytes

[0208] The aim of this study was to investigate the ability of various extracts to increase the cell migration of normal human keratinocytes. Cell migration is the ability of certain cells to move, and this migratory ability decreases with age.

[0209] This study was conducted on keratinocytes from elderly donors (>60 years old). The following Table 6 shows the quantification of keratinocyte migration in wounds made in cultures of aged keratinocytes treated with various extracts. [Table 6]

[0210] The extract according to Example 3 has no impact on the migration of aged keratinocytes. In contrast, the extract according to Example 1 stimulated the migration of 23% of aged keratinocytes. Furthermore, in this case, the sugar-rich extract according to the present invention in Example 1 allows for an improved effect in stimulating the migration of aged keratinocytes and thus has anti-aging potency. Example 6: In vitro effect of the active ingredient according to the present invention on skin barrier function markers A. Materials and methods Culture and treatment of reconstituted skin

[0211] The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans was prepared as in Example 1 above.

[0212] Human keratinocytes were seeded onto an insert and then incubated at 37 °C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. Between the second and ninth days of incubation, the culture medium was changed every two days. The reconstructed epidermal samples were then treated systemically with 0.25% and 0.50% (v / v) Aureobasidium pullulans extract or 250 μM niacinamide and then incubated at 37 °C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2 from day 9 to day 17.

[0213] On day 17, the reconstructed skin was then recovered and processed differently depending on the analytical tests performed, namely: - For immunohistofluorescence analysis, the reconstructed skin was recovered, fixed, dehydrated and embedded in paraffin. 4-μm sections were then generated using a microtome (Leica). - For QPCR testing, the reconstructed skin was recovered and RNA was extracted from it in its entirety. Analysis of filaggrin, involucrin and tight junction protein-1 synthesis by immunohistofluorescence

[0214] The following primary antibodies were used for the test: - Mouse anti-filaggrin monoclonal antibody - Rabbit anti-loricrin polyclonal antibody - Mouse anti-occludin-1 monoclonal antibody The secondary antibodies used were as follows: - Alexa 488-conjugated rabbit anti-IgG antibody - Alexa 488-conjugated mouse anti-IgG antibody

[0215] Visualization was performed using an IX 70 microscope (Olympus) connected to an image analysis system (NIS-Elements software, Nikon). The content of the various markers synthesized was proportional to the green fluorescence intensity present on the reconstructed epidermal samples. Quantification was performed using an image analysis script in the Python language. The results were expressed in arbitrary units (AU). Quantitative PCR analysis of ZO-1, CK10, involucrin and TGM1 expression

[0216] For this analysis, the RNA was reverse transcribed and the complementary DNA obtained was analyzed by quantitative PCR technology. The mRNAs of the reference internal controls RPS18, GAPDH and GUSB proteins were analyzed in parallel with the mRNAs of ZO-1, CK10, involucrin and TGM1.

[0217] Quantification of fluorescence incorporation (SYBR Green) was continuously measured using a LightCycler LC480 thermal cycler (Roche), and Ct analysis (relative quantification) was performed using LC480 software (Roche). B. Results

[0218] *: Reconstructed epidermis according to the significant results of the Student's t - test / control (p < 0.05) **: Reconstructed epidermis according to the significant results of the Student's t - test / control (p < 0.01) ***: Reconstructed epidermis according to the significant results of the Student's t - test / control (p < 0.005) Immunohistofluorescence study of the effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of epidermal markers filaggrin, involucrin and tight junction protein-1 Effect [Table 7] * The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans tested was in the form of a mixture containing 2.15% by weight of dry matter of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract of Example 1, 15% by weight of propylene glycol, and an appropriate amount of water.

[0219] The study on the effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of epidermal markers filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin - 1 showed significant results relative to the control. For example, the effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of claudin - 1 was significant relative to the control. QPCR study [Table 8] * The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans tested was in the form of a mixture containing 2.15% by weight of dry matter of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract of Example 1, 15% by weight of propylene glycol, and an appropriate amount of water.

[0220] The study on the effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of epidermal markers ZO - 1, CK10, TGM1, and involucrin showed significant results relative to the control. For example, the effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the expression of CK10 or involucrin was significant relative to the control.

[0221] Therefore, the Aureobasidium pullulans extract allows for improved skin barrier function. Example 7: In vivo effect of the active ingredient according to the present invention on skin barrier function A. Materials and methods

[0222] The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans was prepared in Example 1 above.

[0223] According to Table 9 below, the composition according to the invention hereinafter referred to as "test composition", and a second placebo preparation identical to the test composition but without the Aureobasidium pullulans extract were applied to one half of the face according to a predetermined randomization by gently massaging until the composition penetrated, for 42 days.

[0224] The value is expressed as a weight percentage of the active material relative to the total weight of the composition. [Table 9] *The Aureobasidium pullulans extract of Example 1 in the form of a mixture containing 2.15% of Aureobasidium pullulans extract by dry matter weight, 15% by weight of propylene glycol, and an appropriate amount of water was tested.

[0225] A user group (20 volunteers) underwent a 14-day "washout" period during which a placebo preparation was applied twice a day. Then, every morning and evening for 42 days, the users applied the composition containing the Aureobasidium pullulans extract and the placebo preparation to their skin without cream and / or cosmetics on each half of the face.

[0226] On the day of measurement, the volunteers came to the laboratory without applying any product in the morning to the area of interest (neither cream nor cosmetics). Study of barrier function

[0227] Using a TM 300 (Courage&Khazaka) (which measures the water vapor gradient between the skin surface and the ambient air) to perform the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which provides information on the quality of the stratum corneum barrier function.

[0228] The TEWL measurements were performed on symmetric areas of the cheeks at different times during the study.

[0229] A decrease in TEWL is characteristic of an improved skin barrier function.

[0230] After 14, 28, and 42 days of application twice a day on each half of the face, the effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract on TEWL was measured on the face compared to the placebo. Study of skin microrelief

[0231] The study of skin microrelief was carried out using impressions analyzed by fringe projection.

[0232] These silicone polymer impressions were made on the cheeks at different stages of the study.

[0233] Then, the volume acquisition of these impressions was performed using a fringe projection device (Eotech) dedicated to 3D measurement of the impression relief. The system (DermaTOP 1303) includes a measurement sensor (Eotech) that combines a projector and a high-resolution CCD camera connected to the Optocat acquisition software. The area of interest was automatically cut out from the initial acquisition.

[0234] The parameter selected in this study was the parameter Sa (mm), which corresponds to the arithmetic mean of the surface roughness.

[0235] The higher this parameter, the rougher the surface. A decrease in this parameter is characteristic of improved micro-irregularities. B. Data processing

[0236] The effects of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract and the placebo were evaluated by studying the degree of change between D0 and different times of interest (Dx), which reflects the change between before and after treatment.

[0237] [Equation 1] Where: MV Dx : The mean value of the treated area before treatment MV J0 : The mean value of the treated area x days after application each day

[0238] The effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract relative to the placebo formulation was evaluated by obtaining the difference between the degrees of change of the formulation containing the Aureobasidium pullulans extract and the placebo formulation: [Equation 2] Δ / placebo (%) = (Δ / D0) 产物 -(Δ / D0) 安慰剂 Where: -(Δ / D0) 产物 : The degree of change relative to D0 in the area treated with the test composition containing the Aureobasidium pullulans extract x days after application each day. -(Δ / D0) 安慰剂 : The degree of change relative to D0 in the area treated with the placebo x days after application each day. Statistical data analysis

[0239] The results obtained between D0 and different times of interest after using each preparation, as well as between the effects of the preparations containing Aureobasidium pullulans extract and the placebo preparation, were compared using the Student's t-test for paired data, unless the result of the Shapiro-Wilk normality test was less than 5%. In this case, the non-parametric Wilcoxon signed-rank test was used for statistical analysis. In both cases, the test was one-tailed and the risk threshold was set at 5%. The StatgraphicsTM Centurion XVI software was used to perform these analyses. C. Results

[0240] Study of barrier function : The effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on TEWL (g / h / m 2 ) compared to placebo at 14, 28, and 42 days after twice-daily application on the face. [Table 10] *: Significant result according to the Student's t-test / D0 (p < 0.05)

[0241] Compared to placebo, the preparation containing Aureobasidium pullulans extract as an emulsion showed an improvement in the quality of the barrier function starting from 14 days of treatment (-14.6%, p = 0.0026). This effect persisted after 28 and 42 days of treatment, being -15.4% (p = 0.0066) and -15.5% (p = 0.0004) respectively, and was observed in more than 75% of the volunteers at different measurement times.

[0242] Study of skin microrelief : The smoothing effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on cheek micro-relief, parameter Sa (mm), compared to placebo at 14, 28, and 42 days after twice-daily application. [Table 11]

[0243] Compared to placebo, the preparation containing Aureobasidium pullulans extract as an emulsion showed a significant improvement in skin micro-relief after 14 days of treatment, reducing the Sa parameter by 8.1% (p = 0.0120; the effect was observed in 65% of the volunteers). Example 8: In vitro effect of the active ingredient according to the present invention alone and in combination with a C-glycoside A. Materials and Methods

[0244] The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans was prepared as in Example 1 above.

[0245] The expression of markers was analyzed by in situ immunofluorescence labeling and image analysis to evaluate the effects of Aureobasidium pullulans extract and C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane (C-xyloside, Pro-mylane TM ) and their combination on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK): - Expression of the differentiation markers transglutaminase K (TGK), filaggrin, and involucrin, - Expression of the tight junction proteins claudin-1, zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1), and occludin, These compounds were tested at non-cytotoxic concentrations.

[0246] - Normal human keratinocytes: NHEK, Bioalternatives number K341, third generation. - Culture conditions: 37 °C, 5% CO2 - Medium: Keratinocyte SFM (serum-free medium) supplemented with epidermal growth factor pituitary extract - Test medium: Keratinocyte SFM (serum-free medium) Compounds tested [Table 12] * The Aureobasidium pullulans extract of Example 1 in the form of a mixture containing 2.15% Aureobasidium pullulans by weight of dry matter, 15% propylene glycol by weight, and an appropriate amount of water was tested. ** C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a mixture containing 35% C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane by weight of active material, 25% propylene glycol by weight, and an appropriate amount of water was tested. - Positive control for marker expression: TGK, filaggrin, involucrin, claudin-1, ZO-1, and occludin: CaCl2 Sigma, number C7902, stored in 150 mM ultrapure aqueous solution, test concentration = 1.5 mM - Positive control for marker expression: Collagen IV: TGF-β R&D Systems, number 240-B, stored in a 20 μg / ml solution of 4 mM HCl / 0.1% BSA, test concentration = 1.6 to 10 ng / ml. Culture and treatment

[0247] TGK, claudin-1, ZO-1, Collagen IV: Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in medium for 24 hours. Then the medium was replaced with test medium containing or not containing (control) test compounds, combinations or reference compounds, and the cells were incubated for 72 hours.

[0248] Filaggrin: Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and grown in medium for 192 hours, with the medium being renewed after 24 and 96 hours. Then the medium was replaced with test medium containing or not containing (control) test compounds, combinations or reference compounds, and the cells were incubated for 72 hours.

[0249] Involucrin and Occludin: Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in medium for 24 hours. Then the medium was replaced with test medium containing or not containing (control) test compounds, combinations or reference compounds, and the cells were incubated for 144 hours, with the treatment being repeated after 72 hours. In situ immunofluorescence labeling and image analysis Fix the cells

[0250] Wash the cells with PBS solution, fix and permeabilize. Then label the cells with specific primary antibodies (Table 13). Then visualize the primary antibodies using appropriate fluorescent secondary antibodies (Table 13), and stain the cell nuclei in parallel with Hoechst 33258 solution (bisbenzimide, Sigma, cat. no. B1155). [Table 13] Microscopic observation and image analysis

[0251] Use INCell Analyzer TM 2200 (GE Healthcare, 20x objective) for image acquisition (5 pictures / well).

[0252] Quantify the labeling by measuring the fluorescence intensity and normalizing the fluorescence intensity to the total number of cells (digital data integration with Developer Toolbox 1.5 software, GE Healthcare). Data processing

[0253] Analyze the raw data using Microsoft Excel software.

[0254] Use unpaired Student's t-test for comparison between groups. If n ≥ 5, the statistical analysis can be interpretive, however for n < 5, the statistical values are indicative.

[0255] The formula used is as follows: Calculate the standard error of the mean according to the following formula: [Formula 3] sem = Sd / √n The standard error of the mean (sem) is a measure of the likely deviation of the sample from the true population mean. sem is calculated as sd (standard deviation) divided by the square root of the sample size.

[0256] Calculate the viability percentage according to the following formula: [Formula 4] Viability (%) = (OD 样品 / OD 对照 ) × 100 OD: Optical density. B. Results

[0257] ns: 0.05, not significant *: 0.01 - 0.05, significant **: 0.001 to 0.01, very significant ***: <0.001, extremely significant

[0258] The results of each biomarker are presented in Tables 14 to 21 below: [Table 14] [Table 15] [Table 16] [Table 17] [Table 18] [Table 19] [Table 20]

[0259] Under control conditions, the basal expression of differentiation markers and tight junction proteins TGK, filaggrin, involucrin, tight junction protein-1, ZO-1, and occludin in NHEK was very low or confined to a small number of cells.

[0260] Treatment of NHEK with 1.5 mM of the tested positive control CaCl2 significantly stimulated the expression of TGK (903% of control), filaggrin (159% of control), involucrin (126% of control), claudin-1 (200% of control), ZO-1 (119% of control), and occludin (296% of control). These results were expected and validated the test.

[0261] Regarding the dermo-epidermal junction, the basal expression of collagen IV was very low. Treatment of NHEK with 10 ng / ml of the tested TGF-β significantly stimulated the expression of collagen IV (176% of control). These results were expected and validated the test.

[0262] Under the experimental conditions of this test, the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans induced a significant increase in the expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and occludin.

[0263] The combination of the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans and C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane (C-xyloside, Pro-mylane TM ) also stimulated the expression of the markers considered.

[0264] The main effects slightly stronger than those of the extract of the genus Aureobasidium alone were as follows: - At the highest combination concentration, the expression of collagen IV increased significantly, while no potency was observed with the extract alone. - A synergistic increase in TGK, and - A significant increase in ZO-1 expression, with a similar effect at three tested concentrations, while no potency was observed with the extract alone.

[0265] The results were that the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans optionally combined with C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane could counteract the signs of skin aging and improve the skin barrier function. Example 9: Cosmetic composition

[0266] Prepare the following lotion: [Table 21] * Incorporate the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans of Example 1 in the form of a mixture containing 2.15% of the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans by weight of dry matter, 15% of propylene glycol, and an appropriate amount of water into the composition.

[0267] Apply the lotion to the facial skin.

Claims

1. Use of a cosmetic active ingredient of a biomass extract containing at least one Aureobasidium species yeast, characterized in that The extract contains at least 25% sugar by weight of the dry matter of the extract, or the use of a composition comprising the extract as a cosmetic active ingredient.

2. The use according to claim 1, wherein It is intended for the prevention and / or treatment of signs of skin aging and / or for enhancing and / or improving the skin's barrier function.

3. The use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that It is intended for moisturizing the skin and / or for improving the quality of the skin surface, in particular for improving the skin's gloss and / or for improving the uniformity of skin color and / or for reducing the micro-relief of the skin.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The yeast is isolated from a rose bush, more preferably from the flowers and / or thorns and / or roots of the genus Rosa.

5. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The extract contains at least 45% sugar by weight of the dry matter of the extract, and in particular the sugar of the extract consists of at least 80% oligosaccharides by weight of the dry matter of the sugar, the oligosaccharides being preferably α-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or β-linked glucose oligosaccharides, and the oligosaccharides having a molar mass of less than 1800 Da, for example.

6. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The cosmetic active ingredient is in liquid form or in solid form.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The cosmetic active ingredient can be obtained by a method comprising the following steps: a. Culturing Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium, b. Dissolving at least 50 g / L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water, c. Extracting, preferably extracting the sugar, d. Heat treatment, preferably between 80 °C and 90 °C, e. Separating the soluble phase and the insoluble phase and recovering the soluble phase, f. Purifying by molecular sorting and optionally decolorizing and deodorizing, and g. Optionally concentrating and sterilizing by filtration.

8. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The cosmetic active ingredient is combined with at least one C-glycoside.

9. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein the C-glycoside has the following general formula (I): Wherein: - R represents: - A saturated straight-chain C1 to C20, preferably C1 to C10, or an unsaturated C2 to C20, preferably C3 to C10 alkyl group, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or cyclic C3 to C20, preferably C4 to C10 alkyl group; - A saturated straight-chain C1 to C20, preferably C2 to C10, or an unsaturated C2 to C20, preferably C2 to C10, or a branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3 to C20, preferably C4 to C10 hydrofluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl group; - A phenyl or benzyl group, - The hydrocarbon-based chain constituting the group may, where appropriate, be interrupted by 1, 2, 3 or more heteroatoms selected from: oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, silicon, halogen atoms, - And may optionally be substituted by at least one group selected from: -OR4, -SR4, -NR4R5, -COOR4, -CONHR4, -CN, C1 to C6 hydrofluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl, and / or C3 to C8 cycloalkyl, and / or at least one optionally substituted C5 to C18 cycloalkyl, aryl or heterocyclic group, - Wherein R4 and R5 may independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, or a straight-chain saturated C1 to C30, preferably C3 to C12, or an unsaturated C2 to C30, preferably C3 to C12, or a branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C3 to C30, preferably C4 to C12 alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl group; or a C6 to C10 aryl group, -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, preferably the -CH(OH)- group; -S represents a monosaccharide in the form of a pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units and preferably up to 6 sugar units, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being optionally substituted by free hydroxyl groups and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and -the -S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or β, -and its physiologically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates, and isomers.

10. Use according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the C-glycoside is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

11. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein the mass ratio [C-glycoside / biomass extract of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast species] is less than or equal to 50, more preferably the mass ratio [C-glycoside / biomass extract of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast species] is between 5 and 50, still more preferably between 8 and 49.

12. A composition, in particular a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, which comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient, said cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one biomass extract of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast species, in particular a biomass extract of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast species as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, and at least one C-glycoside, in particular a C-glycoside as defined in claims 9 and 10, which is present in particular in the mass ratio as defined in claim 11.

13. Composition according to the preceding claims, wherein the extract is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight of dry matter, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight of dry matter, more preferably ranging from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter, and still more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of active material, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 5% by weight of active material, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 4% by weight of agent, still more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, such as 0.6% or 3.2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for keratin materials, which comprises at least one step of applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 12 to 14 to the keratin materials, preferably to the skin.

16. The method according to claim 15, wherein It is intended for the prevention and / or treatment of signs of skin ageing and / or for enhancing and / or improving the skin barrier function.

17. The method according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that It is intended for moisturizing the skin and / or for improving the quality of the skin surface, in particular for improving the skin's luster and / or for improving the uniformity of skin color and / or for reducing the micro-relief of the skin.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Hydrocarbon mixtures and use thereof

    WO2008155059A2