Process for treating keratin fibres with composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids, composition having low silicone content

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres with a composition comprising two different specific fatty acids, which composition has a low silicone content.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids and having a low silicone content. Background Art

[0002] Hair is damaged and weakened due to external atmospheric factors such as pollution and bad weather, and also due to mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing, and repeated washing. As a result, the hair becomes damaged and may, in the long term, become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split, and / or limp or sensitive to humidity, making the hair difficult to manage, often frizzy, and / or difficult to style in humid environments, especially in very humid environments.

[0003] Therefore, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to hair treatments that use compositions intended to properly condition the hair by imparting satisfactory cosmetic properties to the hair, in particular a feeling of softness (the hair is no longer rough), good detangling properties (thus making it easy to comb), and good manageability of the hair (and thus easy to style).

[0004] However, these hair treatments (usually based on silicone-based starting materials) may impart an oily, heavy feeling to the hair, which is not always pleasant for the user. In addition, these hair treatments have little effect on controlling the volume of keratin fibers and / or maintaining the hairstyle and / or hair order in humid or very humid environments.

[0005] Therefore, there is a real need to develop a hair treatment method that can remedy these drawbacks and in particular be able to maintain or even improve the quality of the fibers, especially softness, detangling ability, smoothness, order, and / or shine, and permanently limit the formation of curls and / or the increase in volume of the whole head of hair in humid environments in order to facilitate styling of the hair in humid environments. Ideally, such a method should not use silicone-based starting materials.

[0006] The Applicant has surprisingly found that all or some of these objectives can be achieved by the method according to the invention. Summary of the Invention

[0007] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers, the method comprising step i) of applying to these keratin fibers a composition (C) that comprises at least two different compounds D, the at least two different compounds being independently selected from compounds of formula (I), their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

[0008]

[0009] In formula (I):

[0010] ■R 1 express:

[0011] - a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cycles such as phenyl, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more groups selected from the group consisting of -O-, -CO-, -NR a - or a combination thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a -heteroatoms or groups; or

[0012] - (hetero)cyclic groups such as phenyl, which are optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl (-OH) or R b -(CO)-;

[0013] ■R a represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from (—OH), amino (—NH 2 ) or carboxyl (—COOH);

[0014] ■R b represents (C2-C 10 )alkyl;

[0015] It should be understood that:

[0016] - the salt of the compound of formula (I) is selected from the monovalent salt of the compound of formula (I), preferably selected from the alkali metal salts such as sodium salt or potassium salt, ammonium salt, tetrakis (hydroxy) (C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, tris(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, tetrakis(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and

[0017] - composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0018] According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (C) as defined previously.

[0019] According to a third aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of the composition (C) as previously defined for caring for keratin fibers, preferably for imparting a softening and / or smoothing and / or shiny effect to the keratin fibers, more preferably for imparting a softening and / or smoothing effect to them.

[0020] According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of the composition (C) as previously defined for protecting keratin fibers against moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of curls and / or the increase in volume of the whole head of hair in a humid environment. Detailed description [[ID=⑦]]

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:

[0022] ■ The term "keratin fiber" means fibers of human or animal origin, such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, mohair, cashmere or fur. According to the invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair.

[0023] ■ The term "alkyl" means a saturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.

[0024] ■ The term "(C x -C y ) alkyl" means an alkyl containing from x to y carbon atoms.

[0025] ■ The term "hydroxy(C x -C y ) alkyl" means a (C x -C y ) alkyl in which at least one of its hydrogen atoms is optionally replaced by a hydroxy group (-OH). Thus, (hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkyl represents a (C x -C y ) alkyl or a hydroxy(C x -C y ) alkyl, i.e. a (C x -C y ) alkyl in which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced by a hydroxy group (-OH).

[0026] ■ The term "bis(hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkylammonium salt" means a salt with two (hydroxy)(C x -C y) Ammonium salts of (hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkyls, where the (hydroxy)(C

[0027] ■ The term “tris(hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkylammonium salt” means an ammonium salt bearing three (hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkyls, where the (hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkyls are the same or different.

[0028] ■ The term “tetrakis(hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkylammonium salt” means an ammonium salt bearing four (hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkyls, where the (hydroxy)(C x -C y ) alkyls are the same or different.

[0029] ■ The term “(hetero)cyclic group” means a cyclic or heterocyclic group.

[0030] ■ The term “cyclic group refers to a monocyclic or fused or unfused, saturated or unsaturated, especially aromatic polycyclic carbocycle containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted by one or more identical or different groups, especially selected from: (C1-C6) alkyl, (C1-C6) alkoxy, (C1-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxy (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).

[0031] ■ The term “heterocyclic group” means a monocyclic or fused or unfused, saturated or unsaturated, especially aromatic polycyclic group containing 5 to 22 members and having 1 to 3 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atoms, which may be substituted by one or more identical or different groups, especially selected from: (C1-C6) alkyl, (C1-C6) alkoxy, (C1-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxy (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).

[0032] ■ The term: “unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group" means a hydrocarbon-based group containing one or more conjugated or non-conjugated ethylenic double bonds.

[0033] ■ The term “isomer” means an optical, geometric or tautomeric isomer.

[0034] The terms “at least one / species” and “one / species or more / more species” are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0035] Method for treating keratin fibers

[0036] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers as previously defined.

[0037] The Applicant has surprisingly found that the method according to the invention makes it possible to maintain or even improve the quality of the fibers, in particular softness, detangling, smoothness and / or order and / or gloss, and to limit the formation of curls and / or the increase in volume of the whole head of hair in a humid environment, thus making it easier to style the hair in a humid environment.

[0038] According to a preferred embodiment, the salt of the compound of formula (I) is selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts and tetra (C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, di (C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, tri (C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra (C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] According to a preferred embodiment, R 1 represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, which hydrocarbon-based group is optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from the following: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero) cycles such as phenyl, and / or optionally inserted with one or more selected from -O-, -CO-, -NR a - or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a -, preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0040] According to one embodiment, composition (C) does not contain any salt of the compound of formula (I) as previously defined.

[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one, preferably all, of the different compounds D are in non-salified form.

[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, at least two of the different compounds D are in non-salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of another of the different compounds D in non-salified form in composition (C) is in the range of 0.25 to 4.

[0043] In the case where the composition (C) comprises more than two different compounds D in non-salified form, the molar ratio between two of these different compounds D varies from 0.25 to 4 and is sufficient to meet this criterion.

[0044] According to a specific embodiment, at least one of the different compounds D is in non-salified form and at least one of the different compounds D is in salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form in the composition (C) to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salified form is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably in the range from 1 to 100.

[0045] In the case where the composition (C) comprises more than two different compounds D in non-salified form and / or more than two different compounds D in salified form, the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salified form is sufficiently greater than or equal to 1, preferably in the range from 1 to 100, in order to meet this criterion.

[0046] The composition (C) preferably comprises no more than five different compounds D, more preferably no more than four different compounds D, even more preferably no more than three different compounds D, and still better no more than two different compounds D, which are independently selected from compounds of formula (I) as defined previously, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] According to a preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

[0048]

[0049]

[0050]

[0051]

[0052]

[0053]

[0054]

[0055]

[0056]

[0057] According to a more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from compounds 1 to 17, 20, 31, 32 or 36, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] According to a preferred variant, the different compounds D are selected from compounds 1 to 39, their isomers and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their isomers and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] When one or more of the different compounds D are in a salt form, they are preferably selected from the following compounds 1' to 11', their isomers and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

[0061]

[0062]

[0063]

[0064] wherein X + represents a monovalent cation, preferably derived from a salt selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, more preferably derived from a salt selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0065] When one or more of the different compounds D are in a salt form, they are more preferably selected from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, wherein X +represents a monovalent cation derived from a salt selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, di(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, tri(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] When one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are even more preferably selected from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, and solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, wherein X + represents Na + , K + , NH4 + or a tetra(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium ion.

[0067] When one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are more preferably selected from the following compounds 1" to 13", their isomers, and solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

[0068]

[0069]

[0070]

[0071] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, when one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are selected from compound 5", 6", their isomers, and solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Preferably, composition (C) comprises a total content of different compounds D of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 100% by weight such as 100% by weight or 0.5% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C).

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from combinations of the following compounds:

[0074] - a combination of octanoic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of octanoic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 3 / 1;

[0075] - a combination of decanoic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of decanoic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 2 / 1;

[0076] - A combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3;

[0077] - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 1 / 1;

[0078] - A combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in composition (C) is preferably equal to 4 / 1.

[0079] According to a more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from the combinations of the following compounds:

[0080] - A combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 3 / 1;

[0081] - A combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 2 / 1;

[0082] - A combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3;

[0083] - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 1 / 1.

[0084] According to the most preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably in the range of 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3.

[0085] When composition (C) comprises one of the combinations of the two compounds described previously, the total content of the combination present in composition (C) is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, more preferably at least 0.05% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 100% by weight, such as 100% by weight or from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0086] Other characteristics of composition (C)

[0087] Composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, i.e. a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with human keratin fibers.

[0088] Composition (C) may comprise water, the total content of which is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and still better less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better composition (C) is anhydrous.

[0090] When appropriate, this small amount of water can in particular be introduced by the components of the composition which may contain residual amounts thereof.

[0091] The pH of composition (C) is preferably in the range of 2 to 11, more preferably 3 to 9. The pH can be adjusted using organic or inorganic acids or organic or inorganic bases commonly used in cosmetics.

[0092] Composition (C) can comprise one or more organic solvents selected from C2-C4 alcohols, ethers, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof.

[0093] When present in composition (C), this or these organic solvents can be present in composition (C) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0094] Composition (C) is preferably liquid.

[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid" means, on a macroscopic scale, a product which, unlike a solid, does not have its own shape and cannot be grasped. It is a fluid which adapts to the shape of the container in which it is placed at room temperature (25 °C). When poured into another container, the liquid retains its volume. Thus, a liquid has its own volume. At rest, the free surface of the liquid is generally flat and horizontal.

[0096] Composition (C) can be in any presentation form conventionally used for hair care applications. By way of non-limiting example, composition (C) can be in the form of a lotion, a serum, a cream, a mousse, a gel, a spray or a hairspray.

[0097] Composition (C) can be used in a rinse-off or leave-on application.

[0098] Composition (C) can be in the form of a hair mask, a conditioning composition or a pre-shampoo. Composition (C) can also be in the form of a composition added to or mixed with a hair mask or a conditioning composition before application.

[0099] Composition (C) can be packaged in a pump bottle or an aerosol container so as to apply composition (C) in a vaporized form (spray styling agent) or in a foam form. In these cases, composition (C) preferably contains at least one propellant.

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a total content of colorants of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, even more preferably the composition is free of colorants, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The term "colorant" means an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.

[0102] The term "oxidation dye" means oxidation dye precursors selected from oxidation developing bases and couplers. Oxidation developing bases and couplers are colorless or slightly colored compounds which form colored substances via a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent.

[0103] The term "direct dye" means natural and / or synthetic dyes other than oxidation dyes, including in the form of one or more extracts. These are colored compounds which will spread on the surface on the fibers. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a total silicone content of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, most preferably less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C), and even better, composition (C) is free of silicone.

[0105] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and even better less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C), and even better composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.

[0106] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (not containing silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and even better less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better composition (C) does not contain cationic surfactants.

[0108] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and even better less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better composition (C) does not contain poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.

[0109] Examples of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0110] Composition (C) may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet keratin fibers.

[0111] The bath ratio of composition (C) applied to the keratin fibers may be in the range of 0.02 to 10. The term "bath ratio" means the ratio between the total weight of composition (C) applied and the total weight of the keratin fibers to be treated.

[0112] The method may include at least one additional step selected from the following steps ii) to iv) after step i):

[0113] ii) A step of applying composition (C) to these keratin fibers, preferably for a period of at least 10 seconds, which application step may optionally be carried out under an airtight film of the wrap or plastic film type;

[0114] iii) A step of rinsing and / or washing these keratin fibers;

[0115] iv) A step of drying these keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

[0116] Preferably, the method includes additional steps ii) and iv) as previously described and carried out in that order.

[0117] According to a specific embodiment, the method includes all of the additional steps ii), iii) and iv) as previously described and carried out in that order.

[0118] The step of applying composition (C) may last from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.

[0119] The temperature of the heating device may be in the range of 45°C to 230°C, preferably 45°C to 100°C, more preferably 50°C to 80°C. A hair dryer, a heating cap, hair straighteners or a heated brush may be used as the heating device, for example.

[0120] The drying step iv) may also be a combination of drying with air or with a heating device (such as a hair dryer or a heating cap) having a temperature in the range of 50°C to 80°C, possibly followed by a straightening step (preferably using hair straighteners).

[0121] Step i) and optionally steps ii) to iv) may be repeated several times as needed, and each cycle of steps may be spaced from the next cycle by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Different hair treatments according to the invention may be carried out between different application cycles, before or after.

[0122] Composition (C)

[0123] According to a second aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (C) as previously defined.

[0124] Use

[0125] According to a third aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a composition (C) as previously defined for caring for keratin fibres, preferably for imparting a softening and / or smoothing and / or shiny feel to keratin fibres, more preferably for imparting a softening and / or smoothing feel to them.

[0126] According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a composition (C) as previously defined for protecting keratin fibres against moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of curls and / or the increase in volume of the whole head of hair in a humid environment.

[0127] Examples

[0128] The following examples provide a better understanding of the invention, which is not, however, limiting in nature.

[0129] The following compositions C1 to C4 were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below:

[0130] [Table 1]

[0131]

[0132] Method for preparing composition C1

[0133] 1 mol of lauric acid was weighed out in a flask to which 3 mol of oleic acid was added.

[0134] The mixture was heated at 70 °C for 1 h with stirring. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature with stirring. The resulting product was a colorless, transparent, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0135] Method for preparing composition C2

[0136] 1 mol of lauric acid was weighed out into a flask to which 3 mol of octanoic acid was added.

[0137] The mixture was heated at 70 °C for 1 h with stirring. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature with stirring. The resulting product was a colorless, transparent, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0138] Method for preparing composition C3

[0139] 1 mol of lauric acid was weighed out into a flask to which 2 mol of decanoic acid was added.

[0140] The mixture was heated at 70 °C for 1 h with stirring. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature with stirring. The resulting product was a colorless, transparent, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0141] Method for preparing composition C4

[0142] 1 mol of octanoic acid was weighed out into a flask to which 1 mol of decanoic acid was added.

[0143] The mixture was heated at 70 °C for 1 h with stirring. The temperature was allowed to return to room temperature with stirring. The resulting product was a colorless, transparent, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0144] Example 1: Evaluating hairstyle retention in a humid environment

[0145] According to the evaluation protocol described below, the hair styling retention of compositions C1, C2 and C4, i.e., the curl formation and volume increase of the whole head of hair in a humid environment, was evaluated.

[0146] Strands of hair used

[0147] 2.7 g of 27-cm-long Brazilian hair strands with type-IV curls were used.

[0148] Evaluation protocol

[0149] Before applying the test compositions, the hair strands were washed with DOP shampoo (0.4 g / g hair).

[0150] Then 81 mg of each test composition was applied to separate wet hair strands that had been pre-wrung and blotted dry on absorbent paper. This application was carried out with the fingers while massaging the hair fibers.

[0151] Then the hair tresses are combed, detangled and placed in a glove box and kept at 25 °C at 20% relative humidity for 2 hours.

[0152] Then the tresses are placed in an oven at 80% relative humidity and 25 °C for 24 hours.

[0153] The volume and curl measurements are made by measuring the width at the middle height of the tress and are compared with the values obtained on reference tresses not treated with the composition according to the invention.

[0154] Evaluation results

[0155] The measurement results (in cm) of the width at the middle height of the tress are summarized in the table below:

[0156] [Table 2]

[0157]

[0158] It can be seen that the width values at the middle height of the tresses treated via the method according to the invention are lower than those of the reference tresses.

[0159] Thus, the method according to the invention makes it possible to limit the formation of curls and the increase in hair volume in a humid environment, even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials.

[0160] Example 2: Evaluating "slipperiness" via a friction test

[0161] The surface of natural hair is perceived as smooth, i.e. having a low coefficient of friction, while the surface of damaged hair is perceived as rough, i.e. having a high coefficient of friction.

[0162] It is known that hair treatments that damage hair, such as dyeing and bleaching, increase the coefficient of friction of the hair.

[0163] Thus, the lower the coefficient of friction of the hair, the better the feel of the repaired hair and the ease with which the hair can be combed and detangled under dry and wet conditions.

[0164] The "smoothness" of composition C1 is evaluated according to the evaluation protocol described below.

[0165] Tresses used

[0166] For this study, 3.5 cm long tresses of bleached Caucasian hair (alkali solubility AS22) are used.

[0167] Evaluation protocol

[0168] In this test, 3.5 cm long hair tresses were fixed in the specimen holder of a Zwickiline Z2.5 mechanical testing machine (Zwick, Germany) equipped with a 100 Newton (N) measuring cell. A normal force of 0.5 N was applied to the tresses using tweezers covered with disposable plastic foam. The foam was replaced after each measurement. The testing machine was moved at a constant speed of 100 mm / min to remove the tresses from the tweezers. During removal, the force required to remove the hair was measured as a function of displacement. The resulting force / displacement curve was characterized by a plateau at the end of the removal, and the average force under the plateau was recorded. The effect of hair treatment on the friction properties was determined by comparing the average force under the plateau of the reference tresses with the average force under the plateau of the treated tresses.

[0169] For measurements in the dry state (dry friction), the hair was conditioned at 25 °C and 45% relative humidity.

[0170] For wet measurements (wet friction), the hair tresses were immersed in demineralized water for one minute before measurement.

[0171] Composition C1 was applied according to the leave-on protocol described below, and then dry and wet measurements were performed according to the previously described protocol.

[0172] The force ratio between the treated and untreated hair was determined as follows: F 经处理的 (N) / F 未经处理的 (N).

[0173] Leave-on protocol

[0174] 1) Wash the tresses with DOP shampoo at a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g hair;

[0175] 2) Comb the tresses;

[0176] 3) Apply the composition to the still wet hair at a bath ratio of 0.15 g / g hair, without leave-on time;

[0177] 4) Let the tresses dry at room temperature (22 °C).

[0178] Results

[0179] The measurement results are summarized in the following table:

[0180] [Table 3]

[0181]

[0182] Compared to untreated hair, lower friction is observed on dry and wet hair for hair treated by the method according to the invention. Even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials, the hair surface is smoother. The treated hair is softer and easier to comb and detangle compared to untreated hair.

[0183] Example 3: Evaluating hairstyle retention in a humid environment

[0184] Prepare the following compositions C5 to C8. All amounts are shown as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] [Table 4]

[0186]

[0187] According to the evaluation protocol described below, the hairstyle retention of compositions C5 to C8, i.e., the curl formation and volume increase of the whole head of hair in a humid environment, was evaluated.

[0188] Locks of hair used

[0189] Use 2.7 g of 27 cm long Brazilian hair locks with type IV curls.

[0190] Evaluation protocol

[0191] Before applying the test composition, wash the hair locks with DOP shampoo (0.4 g / g hair).

[0192] Then apply 81 mg of each test composition to separate wet hair locks that have been pre-wrung and dried on blotting paper. This application is done with fingers while massaging the hair fibers.

[0193] Then comb, detangle the hair locks and place them in a glove box at 25 °C with 20% relative humidity for 2 hours.

[0194] Then place the hair locks in an oven at 25 °C and 80% relative humidity for 24 hours.

[0195] Volume and curl measurement is carried out by measuring the width at the middle height of the hair lock and comparing with the values obtained from reference hair locks not treated with the composition according to the invention.

[0196] Evaluation results

[0197] The measurement results (in cm) of the width at the middle height of the hair locks are summarized in the following table:

[0198] [Table 5]

[0199]

[0200] It can be seen that the width value at the mid-height of the tress processed by the method according to the present invention is lower than that of the comparative tress and the reference tress.

[0201] Therefore, the method according to the present invention enables the formation of curls and the increase in hair volume in a humid environment to be restricted, even in the absence of a silicone-based starting material.

Claims

1. A method for treating keratin fibers, the method comprising step i) of applying a composition (C) to the keratin fibers, the composition comprising at least two different compounds D, the at least two different compounds being independently selected from compounds of formula (I), their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: In formula (I): ■R 1 Indication: - a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from the following: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cycles such as phenyl, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more groups selected from -O-, -CO-, -NR a - or a combination thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a - heteroatoms or groups; or -(Het)cyclic group such as phenyl, which is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from the following: hydroxy (-OH) or R b -(CO)-; ■R a represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which hydrocarbon-based group is optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from (-OH), amino group (-NH2) or carboxyl group (-COOH); ■R b represents (C2-C 10 ) alkyl; It is understood that: - The salts of the compound of formula (I) are selected from the monovalent salts of the compound of formula (I), preferably selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium salts or potassium salts, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium salts or potassium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and - The composition (C) has a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

2. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein R 1 represents a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group having 6 to 26 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from the following: hydroxy (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxy (-COOH), (hetero)cycles such as phenyl, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -CO-, -NR a -, or a combination thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a -, preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon-based group having 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon-based group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms.

3. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, At least one of the different compounds D, preferably all of the different compounds D, is in non-salified form.

4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, At least two of the different compounds D are in non-salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form in the composition (C) to the total amount of another of the different compounds D in non-salified form is in the range of 0.25 to 4.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein At least one of the different compounds D is in non-salified form, and at least one of the different compounds D is in salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form in the composition (C) to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salified form is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably in the range of 1 to 100.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The composition (C) comprises no more than five different compounds D, preferably no more than four different compounds D, more preferably no more than three different compounds D, even more preferably no more than two different compounds D.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The different compounds D are selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: Preferably selected from compounds 1 to 17, 20, 31, 32 or 36, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; More preferably selected from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

8. The method according to claim 1, wherein The different compounds D are selected from the following combinations of compounds: - A combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) being preferably equal to 3 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) being preferably equal to 2 / 1; - A combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in the composition (C) being preferably from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) being preferably equal to 1 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in the composition (C) being preferably equal to 4 / 1; Preferably selected from the following combinations of compounds: - A combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) being preferably equal to 3 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) being preferably equal to 2 / 1; - A combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, and the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, and the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) is preferably equal to 1 / 1; More preferably, composition (C) comprises the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, and the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably in the range of 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein Composition (C) comprises different compounds D in a total content of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 100% by weight such as 100% by weight or 0.5% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C).

10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, most preferably less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C), and even better, composition (C) is free of silicone.

11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and even better less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C), and even better composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.

12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and even better less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C), and even better composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.

13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and even better less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C), and even better composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.

14. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even better less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (C), and even better, composition (C) is anhydrous.

15. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises one or more organic solvents selected from C2-C4 alcohols, ethers, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof.

16. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The composition (C) is applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet keratin fibers.

17. The method according to the previous claim, the method comprising at least one additional step selected from steps ii) to iv) below after step i): ii) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably for a period of at least 10 seconds, the application step optionally being carried out under an airtight film of the wrapper or plastic film type; iii) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

18. A composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.

19. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15 for caring for keratin fibers, preferably for imparting a softening and / or smoothing and / or gloss to the keratin fibers, more preferably for imparting a softening and / or smoothing to them.

20. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15 for protecting keratin fibers against moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of curls and / or the increase in volume of the whole head of hair in a humid environment.

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