Wide-seam double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and processing method thereof

Abstract

The invention provides a detachable shoulder pad wide-seam double-faced woolen coat and a processing method thereof, and the processing method comprises the steps: S1, carrying out preshrinking treatment on a fabric before the fabric is tailored to obtain a treated fabric; s2, tailoring a clothes cutting piece based on the processed fabric, wherein a seam allowance is reserved at the edge of the current clothes cutting piece; s3, seam allowances and parts are marked on the clothes cutting pieces according to preset dotted lines, the edges of the seam allowances are fixed through stitching, and the seam allowances are cut according to preset requirements; s4, cotton linings and double-faced linings are added into the wide abutted seams meeting the preset requirements so that the interiors of the wide abutted seams can be supported; completing the sewing of the wide splicing seams meeting the preset requirements and the conventional splicing seams except the wide splicing seams, and completing the manufacturing of the double-faced woolen coat; and S5, detachable shoulder pads are adopted on the currently completed double-faced woolen coat, so that the shoulders of the double-faced woolen coat can be freely switched between stiff and wide shapes and soft shapes along with the detachable shoulder pads.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of sewing processing technology, in particular to a detachable shoulder-pad wide-seam double-faced woolen coat and a processing method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Double-faced wool fabrics are widely used in the production of high-end coats due to their soft texture and good warmth retention. However, the sewing process of traditional double-faced wool garments still has the following technical problems:

[0003] Wide seams are prone to blistering and twisting: Since double-faced wool fabrics are thicker, wide seams lack internal support when sewing. This can easily lead to blistering and twisting at the seams due to uneven thread tension or fabric elasticity, affecting the flatness and three-dimensional effect of the garment.

[0004] The pocket seams are thick and the piping is easily deformed: the seams of conventional double-faced fabric pockets are thick, and the machine piping is prone to uneven width or distortion due to too many layers of fabric, resulting in a bloated and less refined appearance of the pockets;

[0005] The shoulder shape is simple and lacks functionality: The shoulder pads of traditional double-faced wool coats are mostly fixed and cannot be adjusted according to wearing needs. It is difficult to achieve a sense of stiffness in formal occasions and a softness in casual occasions, which limits the wearing occasions of the clothing.

[0006] To address these issues, the existing technology has yet to offer an effective solution that can both maintain the aesthetics of double-faced woolen garments while improving their process stability and functionality. Therefore, an innovative sewing process is urgently needed to address issues such as insufficient support for wide seams, thick pocket seams, and rigid shoulder shapes, thereby improving the overall quality and wearing experience of double-faced woolen garments.

[0007] Patent document CN113584735A (application number: 202110865561.8) discloses a machine sewing method and application of double-sided woolen fabric. The method includes the steps of slitting the fabric, single-chain sewing, trimming and splicing, and flatbed sewing. In the flatbed sewing step, the spliced ​​fabric is spread out from the unsewn side, so that the single-chain sewing seam faces upward, and the high and low presser feet of the flatbed sewing machine are used to press the visible line so that the single-chain sewing seam side covers the cut edge side, thereby realizing machine sewing of the double-sided woolen fabric. Summary of the Invention

[0008] In view of the defects in the prior art, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a detachable shoulder-pad wide-seam double-faced woolen coat and a processing method thereof.

[0009] According to the present invention, a method for manufacturing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams comprises:

[0010] Step S1: Before cutting the fabric, the fabric is pre-shrinked to obtain the processed fabric;

[0011] Step S2: Cutting clothing pieces based on the processed fabric, with seam allowances reserved at the edges of the current clothing pieces;

[0012] Step S3: Mark the seam allowances and positions of the garment pieces according to the preset dotted lines, sew to fix the seam allowance edges, and cut the seam allowances according to the preset requirements;

[0013] Step S4: Adding cotton lining and double-sided lining into the wide seam that meets the preset requirements to provide support in the wide seam; completing the sewing of the wide seam that meets the preset requirements and the regular seams other than the wide seam, thereby completing the double-faced woolen coat;

[0014] Step S5: using detachable shoulder pads on the currently completed double-faced woolen coat, so that the shoulders of the double-faced woolen coat can be freely switched between straight and smooth shapes as the shoulder pads are detachable.

[0015] Preferably, step S4 includes: cutting seams at wide seams including the collar edge, placket edge, cuffs and hem to obtain a seam surface layer and a seam lining layer; gluing cotton lining to the seam surface layer, and then folding it in half and ironing it; gluing double-sided lining to the seam lining layer, and then folding it in half and ironing it; splicing the seam of the seam surface layer with the seam of the corresponding side, and then manually prying and sewing the seam of the seam lining layer.

[0016] Preferably, step S4 includes: at the regular width seams other than the wide seams, folding the seam surface layer in half and ironing, joining the seam of the seam surface layer with the seam on the corresponding side, and then folding the seam of the seam inner layer in half and manually prying and sewing it.

[0017] Preferably, step S5 includes: clamping two silk panels of preset lengths at the shoulder seam and the upper end of the armhole respectively; punching buttonholes at preset marked positions on the silk panels; sewing detachable buttons at preset marked positions on the shoulder pad; and achieving a detachable connection between the buttonholes on the silk panel and the buttons on the shoulder pad.

[0018] Preferably, the shoulder pad comprises: a covering cloth made of silk fabric, a lining cloth bonded to the inner surface of the covering cloth, the covering cloth being polished all around, and the shoulder pad body being sandwiched between the two layers of covering cloth to form a complete shoulder pad structure.

[0019] Preferably, the method further comprises: clamping the bag cover with a single-opening pocket line, tearing the edge of the bag cover and the inner seam of the bag cloth, trimming the inner seam allowance, and manually wrapping the four sides of the bag cloth according to preset requirements.

[0020] Preferably, the pocket is opened and the single-layer adhesive lining is torn off, the edge seams of the bag cover are cut and trimmed, and the inner layer is sewn to the bag cover lining, the bag cloth is one book and one lining, and the seams around the main bag cloth are torn and trimmed to remove the inner seams.

[0021] Preferably, the method further comprises: the piping is performed manually, and the surface of the piping has no visible stitches and no missing stitches.

[0022] Preferably, the method also includes: selecting on the sewing stitches: the surface blind stitch stitch length: 3CM, 12 to 13 needles, the material is KING short yarn 60 count; the inner hand-stitch stitch length: 3CM, 15 to 18 needles, the material is KING long yarn 50 count; the inner hand-stitch blind prying thread stitch length: 3CM, 15 to 18 needles, the material is KING long yarn 100 count.

[0023] A detachable shoulder-padded wide-seam double-faced woolen coat provided by the present invention is prepared by the above-mentioned processing method of the detachable shoulder-padded wide-seam double-faced woolen coat.

[0024] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0025] 1. The present invention improves the coat seaming process, upgrades the pocket process, and uses a detachable shoulder pad process to complete the sewing process of a double-faced woolen coat with wide seams and detachable shoulder pads;

[0026] 2. The present invention has made a new process in seam allowance and piping. The inner seam allowance of the bag cover edge and the bag cloth seam is torn off to make the seam thinner and lighter. At the same time, the piping is rolled by hand. The surface of the piping is missing stitches and there is no visible thread, which makes it more delicate and smoother in appearance.

[0027] 3. The present invention adopts a sewing process for detachable shoulder pads on a double-faced woolen coat, which enables the shoulders of the double-faced woolen coat to be freely switched between straight and soft shapes as the shoulder pads are detachable. At the same time, it also enriches the wearing needs of the double-faced woolen coat and satisfies the wearer's wearing experience in both formal and informal occasions.

[0028] 4. The present invention adds cotton lining and double-sided lining in the seam, so that the wide seam is supported and the appearance is fuller and more three-dimensional. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0029] Other features, objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the detailed description of non-limiting embodiments with reference to the following drawings:

[0030] Figure 1 2 is a process diagram of the front and back sides of a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment.

[0031] Figure 2 This is a diagram of the split sewing lines for the double-faced woolen coat pieces in this embodiment.

[0032] Figure 3 This is a diagram of the seams and cutting of a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment.

[0033] Figure 4 This is a diagram showing the cutting widths of the cotton lining and double-sided lining for a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment.

[0034] Figure 5This is a stitching diagram of a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment.

[0035] Figure 6 This is a process diagram for the side pockets of a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment.

[0036] Figure 7 This is a diagram of trimming the inner seam of the side pocket cloth cover of a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment.

[0037] Figure 8 This is a cutting diagram of the side pocket fabric piping for a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment.

[0038] Figure 9 This is a process diagram for the detachable shoulder pads of a double-faced woolen coat in this embodiment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0039] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments. The following examples will help those skilled in the art to further understand the present invention, but are not intended to limit the present invention in any form. It should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, several changes and improvements can be made without departing from the scope of the present invention. These all fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0040] Example 1

[0041] According to the present invention, a method for processing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams is provided. Figure 1 As shown, including:

[0042] Step 1: Pre-shrink the fabric before cutting, and proceed to the next step after the fabric is stable.

[0043] Step 2: Cut the garment pieces Figure 2 For the parts marked with dotted lines, the seams are fixed and cut, and the corresponding seams are represented by the same serial numbers; for example: ① front and back side seams, the back side seams are cut, ② back center seam, the left back center seam is cut, ③ shoulder seam, the back shoulder seam is cut, ④ outer sleeve seam, the back seam of the large sleeve is cut, ⑤ inner sleeve seam, the front seam of the large sleeve is cut, ⑥ armhole seam, the armhole seam of the body is cut, ⑦ upper and lower collar seams, the lower collar seam is cut, ⑧ body collar seam, the collar seam is cut; the seam width is as follows: Figure 3 shown.

[0044] Step 3: After the whole piece is cut open as required, the wide seams of the collar, placket, cuffs, hem, etc. are cut open and the surface layer is first glued with cotton lining. In this embodiment, the cotton lining is 0.2CM away from the edge and the cutting width is as follows: Figure 4 As shown, cotton lining specification is 67g / m 2 , bonding conditions: 116-132℃, 12-14s, 2-4kg, then fold the surface seam in half and iron; cut the bottom seam in half and iron, add double-sided lining inside the folded seam and bond it, the double-sided lining cutting width is as follows Figure 4As shown, double-sided lining specifications: yarn count 20D*20D, bonding conditions: 140-150℃, 10-15s, 2-3kg; finally cut the seam surface and sew it together manually. Figure 5 As shown; for other regular width seams, the seams of the surface layer with the cut seams are first joined with the seams on the corresponding sides, and then the seams of the bottom layer with the cut seams are folded in half and sewn together manually with a pry needle. Figure 5 shown.

[0045] In this embodiment, the cotton lining can also be replaced by the middle cotton. For example, double-faced woolen cloth weighing 450g-600g can replace the middle cotton 80g; double-faced woolen cloth weighing 600g-710g can replace the middle cotton 60g; double-faced woolen cloth weighing 710g-880g can replace the middle cotton 30g.

[0046] Step 4: Open the pocket and attach the bag cover with a clip. Roll the bag cloth 0.4CM around it by hand. Figure 6 The single layer of adhesive lining is torn open to make the open line thinner and more comfortable. The seams of the bag cover are cut and trimmed, and the inner layer is sewn to the bag cover. The bag cloth is one book and one lining. The lining is made of 16MM silk double crepe, with a composition of 100% SE. The seams of the bag cloth are torn open and the inner layer seams are trimmed. In this embodiment, the trimming width is equal to the piping width plus 0.2CM. Figure 7 As shown, the bag cloth roll strip is made of 10MM organza, with a composition of 100% SE. Figure 8 As shown;

[0047] Step 5: Removable shoulder pads: Add 1.5cm silk welts to the shoulder seam and the upper end of the armhole, respectively, and clip them to the shoulder seam and the upper end of the armhole. Punch buttonholes according to the marked positions. Wrap the shoulder pads with silk fabric. In this embodiment, the welts and shoulder pad wrapping fabrics are made of 10mm organza, with a composition of 100% SE. The front and back wrapping fabrics are glued together separately. The glued lining specifications are: yarn count 10D*10D, 12G / M 2 , bonding conditions: 120-140℃, 10-15s, 2-3kg, wrap the cloth for a week to make the smooth shoulder pads sandwiched inside, wrap the cloth and add adhesive lining to increase the friction fastness, so that the shoulder pads are not easy to move and have a smooth and beautiful appearance. The cloth shoulder pads are ordered with detachable buttons according to the marked positions. The buttons are 0.9CM in diameter and flat. The shoulder pads are detachable. Figure 9 shown.

[0048] Step 6. Select the sewing stitches: Top blind stitch: 3CM, 12-13 needles, material is KING short yarn 60s (60# / 5000); Lining hand stitch: 3CM, 15-18 needles, material is KING long yarn 50s (50# / 3000); Lining hand blind prying stitch: 3CM, 15-18 needles, material is KING long yarn 100s (100# / 5000);

[0049] The above describes specific embodiments of the present invention. It should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiments described above, and those skilled in the art may make various changes or modifications within the scope of the claims, which do not affect the essence of the present invention. The embodiments of this application and the features in the embodiments may be combined with each other in any manner unless there is a conflict.

Claims

1. A method for processing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams, characterized in that: include: Step S1: Before cutting the fabric, the fabric is pre-shrinked to obtain the processed fabric; Step S2: Cutting clothing pieces based on the processed fabric, with seam allowances reserved at the edges of the current clothing pieces; Step S3: Mark the seam allowances and positions of the garment pieces according to the preset dotted lines, sew to fix the seam allowance edges, and cut the seam allowances according to the preset requirements; Step S4: adding cotton lining and double-sided lining into the wide seam that meets the preset requirements to provide support in the wide seam; Complete the sewing of wide seams that meet preset requirements and regular seams other than wide seams to produce a double-faced woolen coat; Step S5: using detachable shoulder pads on the currently completed double-faced woolen coat, so that the shoulders of the double-faced woolen coat can be freely switched between straight and smooth shapes as the shoulder pads are detachable.

2. The method for processing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step S4 comprises: cutting seams at wide seams including the collar edge, the placket edge, the cuffs and the hem to obtain a seam surface layer and a seam lining layer; gluing a cotton lining to the seam surface layer, and then folding it in half and ironing it; gluing a double-sided lining to the seam lining layer, and then folding it in half and ironing it; splicing the seam of the seam surface layer with the seam of the corresponding side, and then manually prying and sewing the seam of the seam lining layer.

3. The method for processing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 2, characterized in that: The step S4 includes: at the regular width seams except the wide seams, folding the seam surface layer in half and ironing, joining the seam of the seam surface layer with the seam of the corresponding side, and then folding the seam of the seam inner layer in half and manually prying and sewing it.

4. The method for manufacturing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step S5 comprises: clamping two silk panels of preset lengths at the shoulder seam and the upper end of the armhole respectively; punching buttonholes at preset marked positions on the silk panels; sewing detachable buttons at preset marked positions on the shoulder pad; and achieving detachable connection between the buttonholes on the silk panels and the buttons on the shoulder pad.

5. The method for manufacturing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 4, characterized in that: The shoulder pad comprises: using silk fabric as a covering cloth, gluing lining cloth to the inner surface of the covering cloth, finishing the covering cloth around a circle, and sandwiching the shoulder pad body between the two layers of covering cloth to form a complete shoulder pad structure.

6. The method for manufacturing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 1, characterized in that: The method further comprises: clamping the bag cover with a single-opening line of the pocket, tearing the inner seam of the bag cover edge and the bag cloth seam, trimming the inner seam allowance, and manually wrapping the four sides of the bag cloth according to preset requirements.

7. The method for manufacturing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 6, characterized in that: The pocket is opened by tearing off the single-layer lining, the edge seams of the bag cover are cut and trimmed, and the inner layer is sewed to the lining of the bag cover. The bag cloth is one layer on each side, and the seams around the bag cloth are torn and trimmed to remove the inner layer seams.

8. The method for manufacturing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 6, characterized in that: The method further comprises: the piping is performed manually, and the surface of the piping strip has no exposed stitches and no missing stitches.

9. The method for manufacturing a double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams according to claim 1, characterized in that: The method further comprises: selecting on sewing stitches: the stitch length of the surface blind stitch is 3CM, 12 to 13 stitches, and the material is KING short yarn 60 count; the stitch length of the inner hand-stitch is 3CM, 15 to 18 stitches, and the material is KING long yarn 50 count; the stitch length of the inner hand-stitch blind prying thread is 3CM, 15 to 18 stitches, and the material is KING long yarn 100 count.

10. A double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams, characterized in that: The double-faced woolen coat with detachable shoulder pads and wide seams is prepared by the processing method of any one of claims 1 to 9.

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