Textile structures and related methods of manufacture

Abstract

The invention relates to a textile structure and a related manufacturing method. In a base fabric (2) having a front side (F) and a rear side (B) located on opposite sides with respect to a median plane (P), weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) are interwoven with warp yarns (3) at respective interweaving points (IPa, IPb, IPc), with the weft yarns pressing over at least one warp yarn through the median plane (P). At least one functional thread (5) extends in a predetermined pattern on the back side (B) of the base fabric (2), does not pass through the median plane (P) and is connected to the weft threads (4a, 4b, 4c) at stitching points (SP) located between the median plane (P) and the back side (B) of the base fabric (2) such that the stitching points (SP) are invisible from the front side (F) opposite the back side (B).

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a textile structure. It also relates to a method for manufacturing the textile structure. More specifically, the textile structure is provided with one or more functional threads adapted to meet specific technical requirements. For example, the functional threads may comprise conductive threads for transmitting signals or electrical energy through the textile structure, which may have the properties of a textile circuit board. The conductive threads may further function as resistors within the textile structure, which may have heater properties. In particular, the conductive threads may further function as antenna loops associated with the textile structure, forming an RFID system when RFID is applied.

[0002] In this specification, "yarn" or "thread" refers to any assembly of one or more yarns, each made up of a single continuous elongated element, or to fibers twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand. Background Art

[0003] Several textile structures and related weaving processes are known which provide additional threads and / or functional threads.

[0004] For example, US2022235499A1 discloses a textile structure in which the covering thread is laid in a zigzag manner and is introduced into the warp shed from above by corresponding yarn feed needles, in such a way that the covering thread is interwoven with the weft yarn carried by the weft insertion device and thereby combined with the textile fabric by means of the weft yarn.

[0005] The edges of the zigzag sequence secure the warp threads and prevent them from fraying. The edges of the zigzag sequence can be additionally secured by another covering thread, which is introduced by another yarn feed needle, and a zigzag interweaving sequence can also be used.

[0006] US2013 / 0118633A1 discloses a textile machine in which fixed warp threads are inserted into the fabric during the manufacturing process via corresponding warp laying elements. One or more additional covering threads, which may consist of conductive or functional threads, are also inserted in the desired sequence via a covering thread guide. The warp laying elements are capable of transverse movement, allowing the fixed warp threads to be laid along the warp direction and bind the covering threads to create new patterns and effects.

[0007] US2023096264A1 provides a textile structure in which weft threads are positioned at certain points in the fabric in a floating manner above a plurality of adjacent warp threads. A cover thread, which can be a functional thread, such as an RFID antenna, is positioned beneath the floating weft thread by a yarn feed needle at any point between the start and end of the floating weft thread. The cover thread is thus tied together by the weft thread and precisely positioned at the start or end of the floating weft thread area, depending on the location of the preceding and succeeding connection points or junctions.

[0008] The covering or functional thread can be laid on the base fabric without extending into the open shed, while being fixed to the fabric by anchor yarns that extend into the open shed and are fixed to the weft yarns of the base fabric.

[0009] However, known solutions have several limitations and drawbacks. In fact, the stitching points between the functional thread and the base fabric are often visible from the front side of the base fabric. This makes known solutions unsuitable for certain applications, such as incorporating the functional thread into labels, where the appearance of the front side of the fabric is important. Summary of the Invention

[0010] The object of the present invention is mainly to overcome the problems encountered in the known art and to propose a method and a textile structure which allow the incorporation of functional threads with reduced impact on the appearance and aesthetic characteristics of the front face of the basic fabric.

[0011] In particular, the invention aims to allow the production of textile structures comprising functional threads and which are at the same time suitable for applications involving high quality requirements also from an aesthetic point of view, such as the production of labels, trim elements or inserts for garments.

[0012] Another object of the present invention is to propose a textile structure which lends itself to being obtained at low cost through a simplified textile process.

[0013] More specifically, the present invention is directed to a textile structure according to one or more of claims 1 to 11, comprising a base fabric comprising warp yarns extending in a warp direction and weft yarns extending in a weft direction; wherein the base fabric has a front and a back, the front and the back being on opposite sides of a mid-plane relative to the base fabric; wherein the weft yarns are interwoven with the warp yarns at respective interweaving points, at which the weft yarns pass through the mid-plane to override at least one warp yarn; further comprising at least one functional thread extending according to a preset pattern on the back of the base fabric; wherein at least one functional thread is located on the base fabric and does not pass through the mid-plane; and wherein the functional thread is connected to one or more weft yarns at a stitching point located between the mid-plane and the back of the base fabric, such that the stitching point is not visible from the front side opposite to the back side.

[0014] Another aspect of the invention relates to a method for producing a textile structure according to one or more of claims 12 to 15, comprising arranging warp yarns extending in the warp direction so that a first series of warp yarns alternates with a second series of warp yarns; inserting weft yarns in a weft direction transverse to the warp direction through an open shed formed by the first series and the second series of warp yarns joining each other in the warp direction in a weaving area; exchanging the first series and the second series of warp yarns so that the weft yarns interweave with the warp yarns in the weaving area, thereby forming a base fabric by interweaving the weft yarns with the warp yarns at corresponding interweaving points;

[0015] At least one functional thread is laid on the warp yarn near the weaving area, the functional thread is located on the back of the base fabric and does not pass through the middle plane of the base fabric; at least one functional thread is connected to the weft yarn through a stitching point set between the middle plane and the back, so that the stitching point is not visible from the front of the base fabric opposite to the back.

[0016] The Applicant believes that arranging the stitching points on the back side of the textile structure, i.e. between each weft yarn and the corresponding warp yarn, or in any case between the median plane and the back side (i.e. beyond the median plane towards the back side of the base fabric), allows the interweaving points to be effectively hidden when the textile structure is viewed from the front side. As a result, the quality of the textile structure in terms of appearance and aesthetics is improved, which is a significant advantage in particular for labels and / or similar items where visual appearance is a key requirement.

[0017] In at least one form of preferred embodiment, the present invention further includes one or more of the preferred features listed below.

[0018] Preferably, the weft yarns include: base weft yarns parallel to each other; and anchoring weft yarns configured to connect the at least one functional thread to the base fabric.

[0019] Preferably, the interweaving points formed by the basic weft yarns are respectively aligned in the warp direction.

[0020] Preferably, the interweaving points formed by the anchoring weft yarns are staggered in the weft direction with respect to the interweaving points formed by the basic weft yarns.

[0021] Preferably, the base weft yarn and the anchoring weft yarn are obtained from one and the same continuous thread.

[0022] Preferably, the base weft yarn and the anchoring weft yarn are each obtained from different continuous threads.

[0023] Preferably, on the front side of the base fabric, the interweaving points of the anchoring weft yarns are covered by the base weft yarns, whereby the interweaving points formed by the anchoring weft yarns are not visible from the front side.

[0024] Preferably, on the front side of the base fabric, the interweaving points of the anchoring weft yarns are between the base weft yarns and the warp yarns.

[0025] Preferably, on the front side of the basic fabric, the basic weft yarns have floating extensions, each of which extends straight over a group of warp yarns between corresponding interweaving points.

[0026] Preferably, the floating stretches of mutually adjacent basic weft yarns overlap the interweaving points of the anchor weft yarns.

[0027] Preferably, the weft yarns further comprise patterned weft yarns having a front side facing the base fabric, an exposed extension on the base weft yarns, and a hidden extension facing a back side facing the base fabric.

[0028] Preferably, at least one fixing yarn interwoven with the weft yarn and at least one functional thread on the back side of the base fabric are provided to connect the functional thread and the base fabric.

[0029] Preferably, at least one fixing yarn is interwoven with said anchoring weft yarn.

[0030] Preferably, the functional thread has a warp-extending section extending in the warp direction and a weft-extending section extending transversely to the warp direction.

[0031] Preferably, the at least one fixing yarn extends in a zigzag pattern along its longitudinal extension, pressing over the functional thread.

[0032] Preferably, each of the at least one functional thread is interwoven with the anchoring weft yarns by a plurality of mutually parallel fixing yarns, each fixing yarn extending substantially in the warp direction.

[0033] Preferably, each fixing yarn is stitched to the anchoring weft yarn by stitching points evenly distributed in a zigzag pattern extending in the warp direction.

[0034] Preferably, the at least one fixing yarn extends in a zigzag pattern, pressing across the warp-extending sections of the functional threads.

[0035] Preferably, at least one of the warp-extending sections of the functional thread extends in a zigzag pattern, pressing past one of the fixing yarns.

[0036] Preferably, the weft yarns are directly joined to the functional threads on the back side of the base fabric.

[0037] Preferably, the functional thread is directly engaged with at least one of the anchoring weft yarns.

[0038] Preferably, inserting the weft yarn comprises inserting a base weft yarn and inserting an anchor weft yarn in each subsequent weaving cycle, passing through the open shed, connecting the functional thread to the anchor weft yarn.

[0039] Preferably, it is provided that the pattern weft thread is inserted through an open shed.

[0040] Preferably, connecting the at least one functional thread comprises forming at least one stitching point by means of a fixing yarn, the stitching point joining the anchoring weft yarn and the functional thread.

[0041] Preferably, forming at least one seam point comprises inserting a fixing yarn into an open shed through one of said series of warp yarns; and interweaving a weft yarn introduced through the open shed with the fixing yarn.

[0042] Preferably, in the textile structure, at least one fixing yarn is interwoven with the weft yarn at stitching points, and the stitching points are distributed on opposite sides of the functional thread along the longitudinal extension direction of the functional thread.

[0043] Preferably, a plurality of fixing yarns are interwoven with the weft yarns, and the stitching points of each fixing yarn are distributed on opposite sides of one of the warp yarns along the longitudinal extension direction of the warp yarns.

[0044] Preferably, connecting the at least one functional thread comprises interweaving the functional thread with a corresponding weft thread at a stitching point.

[0045] Preferably, provision is made for: inserting the functional thread into the open shed, passing through one of said series of warp threads; and interweaving the functional thread with the weft thread introduced through the open shed. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0046] Other features and advantages will be better clarified by describing in detail a preferred, but not exclusive, embodiment of the textile structure and the method for its manufacture according to the present invention. This description will be made with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are provided as non-limiting examples only, in which:

[0047] Figure 1 Schematically shows a top view of a textile structure according to the invention, the top view being viewed towards the front side of the textile structure base fabric;

[0048] Figure 2 It is a schematic cross-sectional view of the textile structure along a section parallel to the weft direction WF;

[0049] Figure 3 According to the first embodiment Figure 2 a bottom view of the textile structure of FIG. 1 , the bottom view being viewed toward the back side of the base fabric;

[0050] Figures 4 to 10 The various stages of a method for producing a textile structure according to a first embodiment are schematically shown in perspective views;

[0051] Figure 11 The textile structure according to the second embodiment is Figure 3 Similar bottom view;

[0052] Figures 12a to 15aThe manufacturing process is schematically shown in a side view. Figure 11 the various stages of the method of producing a textile structure according to the second embodiment;

[0053] Figures 12b to 15b The top view schematically shows Figures 12a to 15a various stages of

[0054] Figure 16 is a bottom view of a third embodiment;

[0055] Figure 17 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a textile structure according to a fourth embodiment along a section parallel to the weft direction WF;

[0056] Figure 18 It is a bottom view of the fourth embodiment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0057] With reference to the accompanying drawings, a textile structure according to the present invention is indicated by reference numeral 1 .

[0058] The textile structure 1 comprises a base fabric 2 comprising warp yarns 3 extending in a warp direction WR and weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c extending in a weft direction WF. The weft direction WF is substantially perpendicular or in any case transverse to the warp direction WR.

[0059] In the embodiment shown here, the warp yarns 3 are preferably laid in a common plane, and a central plane P of the base fabric 2 is defined, which contains the longitudinal geometric axes of the warp yarns 3. In a possible alternative embodiment, the warp yarns 3 can be interlaced. In the latter case, the central plane P of the base fabric 2 is equidistant from the longitudinal geometric axes of the interlaced warp yarns 3.

[0060] The base fabric 2 has a front side F and a back side B. The front side F and the back side B are parallel to and equidistant from the middle plane P and are located on opposite sides of the middle plane P, respectively.

[0061] The weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c are interwoven with the warp yarns 3 at their respective interweaving points IP. At each interweaving point IPa, IPb, each weft yarn 4a, 4b, 4c passes through the median plane P. Each weft yarn 4a, 4b, 4c can be interwoven with the warp yarns 3 in any desired order, wherein, between each two consecutive interweaving points IPa, IPb, each weft yarn 4a, 4b, 4c passes over one or more warp yarns 3, alternately shifting from the front side F to the back side B, and vice versa, passing through the median plane P.

[0062] Preferably, at least the base weft thread 4a and the anchoring weft thread 4b are identifiable among the weft threads 4a, 4b, 4c.

[0063] The basic weft yarns 4a are preferably formed from one or more groups, each group consisting of two or more basic weft yarns 4a, extending parallel to one another and engaging with the warp yarns 3 according to the same basic interweaving sequence, which is the same for all basic weft yarns 4a belonging to the same group. Therefore, the basic interweaving points IPa formed by the basic weft yarns 4a, or each group of basic weft yarns 4a, are aligned in the warp direction WR. Preferably, at least on the front side F of the base fabric 2, the basic weft yarns 4a have floating sections FS between the basic interweaving points IPa, with each floating section FS extending linearly along a group of warp yarns 3.

[0064] The anchor weft yarns 4b are interwoven with the warp yarns 3 according to an anchor interweaving sequence, which is preferably different from the basic interweaving sequence. According to the anchor interweaving sequence, the anchor interweaving points IPb formed by the anchor weft yarns 4b are staggered along the warp direction WR relative to the basic interweaving points IPa formed by the basic weft yarns 4a.

[0065] If desired, the base weft yarn 4a and the anchor weft yarn 4b can be obtained from the same continuous yarn provided during the weaving process so as to be interwoven with the warp yarns 3 according to different basic interweaving sequences and anchor interweaving sequences to define the base weft yarn 4a and the anchor weft yarn 4b, respectively. In another embodiment, different continuous yarns can be provided, which may differ in material, diameter, color, etc., to form the base weft yarn 4a and the anchor weft yarn 4b, respectively.

[0066] The anchoring interweaving point IPb can be covered by the basic weft yarn 4a on the front side F of the basic fabric 2. In fact, the floating extension FS of the adjacent basic weft yarn 4a can cover all or part of the anchoring interweaving point IPb of the anchoring weft yarn 4b, such as Figure 2 and Figure 17 As shown schematically, the anchoring interlacing point IPb is thus located between the base weft yarn 4a and the warp yarn 3 of the base fabric 2. These measures help to conceal the anchoring interlacing point IPb formed by the anchoring weft yarn 4b, so that the anchoring interlacing point IPb is not visible or barely visible when the textile structure 1 is viewed from the front side F. The effective concealment of the anchoring interlacing point IPb can be improved by selecting a specific weft-direction continuous yarn with a smaller diameter for the anchoring weft yarn 4b than for the base weft yarn 4a.

[0067] The weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c may further include pattern weft yarns 4c. Each pattern weft yarn 4c has an exposed stretch ES superimposed on the base weft yarn 4a, facing the front side F of the base fabric 2, and a hidden stretch HS facing the back side B of the base fabric 2. Pattern interlacing points IPc are provided along the pattern weft yarns 4c, each located between an exposed stretch ES and a continuous hidden stretch, passing through a median plane P. Each exposed stretch extends between two separate pattern interlacing points IPc and is passed over one or more warp yarns 3 according to the desired pattern interlacing sequence. Preferably, the pattern weft yarns 4c are formed from one or more separate pattern-continuous yarns that differ from the weft-continuous yarns used for the base weft yarns 4a. Different interlacing sequences for the pattern weft yarns 4c can be selected and combined according to a predetermined weaving program to form any desired graphic, symbol, or text on the front side F of the base fabric 2.

[0068] Preferably, the pattern weft yarn 4c, via its exposed extension ES, covers the underlying base weft yarn 4a and / or anchor weft yarn 4b, along with their interweaving points IPa and IPb. This measure further enhances the concealment of the anchor interweaving points IPb, rendering them invisible when the textile structure 1 is viewed from the front side F. Effective concealment can be enhanced by selecting a pattern weft yarn 4c with a larger diameter than the base weft yarn 4a and / or anchor weft yarn 4b.

[0069] The textile structure 1 further includes one or more functional threads 5 extending in a predetermined pattern on the back side B of the base fabric 2. The functional threads 5 may, for example, consist of conductive threads that serve as antennas to form an RFID system in combination with an RFID chipset associated with the textile structure 1. In this case, the functional threads 5 may each extend in a wavy pattern, exhibiting warp-extending segments 5 a extending in a warp direction WR interspersed with weft-extending segments 5 b extending in a weft direction WF or in any case transverse to the warp direction WR in an alternating sequence.

[0070] In different embodiments, the functional line 5 can be used to transmit current or signals. The functional line 5 can also be implemented in the form of an optical fiber.

[0071] Each functional thread 5 is located on the back side B of the base fabric 2, does not cross the midplane P, and is connected to one or more weft yarns 4a, 4b, or 4c. More specifically, the connection between the functional thread 5 and the base fabric 2 is preferably achieved via an anchor weft yarn 4b. In fact, the functional thread 5 is preferably connected to the one or more anchor weft yarns 4b via a stitching point SP located between the midplane P and the back side B of the base fabric 2. Therefore, even in the absence of a pattern weft yarn 4c, the functional thread 5 and the stitching point SP are not visible from the front side F, which is opposite the back side B. Furthermore, the stitching points SP are positioned so that their presence does not affect the correct positioning of the base weft yarn 4a and / or pattern weft yarn 4c on the front side F.

[0072] More specifically, Figure 2-Figure 3 、 Figure 11 and Figure 16 In the first, second and third embodiments shown better in FIG, the stitching points SP are formed along one or more fixing yarns 6, which are used to connect the functional thread 5 with the anchoring weft yarns 4b. In fact, each fixing yarn 6 is interwoven with a separate anchoring weft yarn 4b and the functional thread 5 resting against the back B of the base fabric 2.

[0073] according to Figure 2 and Figure 3 In the first embodiment shown more clearly, each functional thread 5 can be connected to the base fabric 2 by a single fixing yarn 6, which extends substantially in a zigzag pattern across the functional thread 5 in the longitudinal direction of the functional thread 5. This fixing yarn 6 is joined to the anchoring weft yarn 4b and some of the functional threads 5 at stitching points SP distributed along the weft-extending sections 5b and the warp-extending sections 5a.

[0074] from Figure 2 It can be clearly seen in FIG that the stitching point SP is located on the back side B, so that neither the functional thread 5 nor the fixing yarn 6 passes through the middle plane P of the base fabric 2.

[0075] The textile structure 1 can be conveniently produced using a textile machine 7 equipped with a device for adding additional knitting and / or covering threads. In the following description, only certain components of the textile machine 7 will be discussed. Other components are neither shown nor described in detail herein, as they can be manufactured in any convenient manner. The textile machine 7 can be, for example, a knitting machine, a sword loom, or other type of textile machine. For example, the present invention can be implemented using a textile machine of the type known from WO_2017 / 042015_A1 by the same applicant.

[0076] The basic operating cycle for forming the base fabric 2 is carried out in a known manner, wherein the warp yarns 3 extending in the warp direction WR are arranged to form a first series S1 of warp yarns 3 and a second series S2 of warp yarns 3, alternating with each other according to a predetermined weaving program. The warp yarns 3 belonging to the first series S1 and the second series S2, respectively, are separated from each other to form an open shed 8, into which at least one weft yarn 4a, 4b, 4c is inserted by a weft insertion device 9 in a weft direction WF transverse to the warp direction WR.

[0077] The warp yarns 3 belonging to the first series S1 and the second series S2 are then interchanged to interweave with the weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c in the weaving region 10, where the first series S1 and the second series S2 of warp yarns 3 merge. The base fabric 2 is thus formed by interweaving the weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c with the warp yarns 3 at their respective interweaving points IPa, IPb, and IPc. A movable reed 11 is provided for compacting the weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c onto the previously formed base fabric 2 in the weaving region 10.

[0078] During the weaving process, changing the mutual assignment order between the warp yarns assigned to the first series S1 and the second series S2, respectively, and / or inserting different weft yarns in the open shed 8 to supplement or replace the weft yarns used to form the basic weft yarns 4a allows the anchoring weft yarns 4b to be inserted into the basic fabric 2 in the desired order.

[0079] Figures 4 to 10 The figures represent several different rotation angles of the main shaft on which the movable parts of the textile machine 7 are moved, showing several stages of the engagement of the functional thread 5 and the fixed yarn 6 with the base fabric 2 to achieve Figure 2 and Figure 3 The pattern weft yarn 4c and the related mechanical parts of the textile machine 7 are not shown here, as they can be operated in any known manner.

[0080] exist Figure 4 In the middle position (spindle rotation angle = 0°), the functional yarn 5 and the fixed yarn 6 are carried by the functional yarn guide 12 and the fixed yarn guide 13, respectively, which are independently movable above the weaving area 10. The functional yarn guide 12 and the fixed yarn guide 13 are both in an elevated position relative to the weaving area 10. The shed 8 formed by the warp yarns 3 is closed, and the reed 11 advances in the beat-up position on the weaving area 10 to compact the previously inserted base weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c onto the base fabric 2. The warp-extending section 5a of the functional yarn 5 is already secured to the back surface B of the base fabric 2 by the fixed yarn 6 extending in a zigzag pattern.

[0081] exist Figure 5In the middle (spindle rotation angle = 10°), the functional thread guide 12 and the fixed yarn guide 13 move in the weft direction WF in their raised position, while the reed 11 moves backward from the beating position, that is, away from the weaving area 10. The fixed yarn guide 13 and the functional thread guide 12 can be configured to replicate the movement of the reed 11 in the warp direction WR. However, relative to the functional thread guide 12, the fixed yarn guide 13 is slightly forward (i.e., farther from the reed 11 and closest to the hook 14) so ​​that the fixed yarn 6 engages with the movable hook 14 running above the weaving area 10.

[0082] exist Figure 6 In the middle (spindle rotation angle = 30°), the reed 11 keeps moving backwards, and the shed 8 starts to open. The fixed yarn guide 13 starts to move backwards, winding the fixed yarn 6 around the hook 14. At the same time, the functional thread guide 12 moving in the weft direction WF exceeds the fixed yarn guide 13 to extend the functional thread 5 behind the fixed yarn 6.

[0083] exist Figure 7 In the middle (spindle rotation angle = 60°), the reed 11 continues to move backward while the opening of the shed 8 continues. The hook 14 lowers the fixing yarn 6 onto the base fabric 2. Simultaneously, the fixing yarn guide 13 moves downward from its raised position and enters the shed 8 at a predetermined position to insert the fixing yarn 6 through the first series S1 of warp yarns 3 into the open shed 8. Simultaneously, the functional thread 5 engages with the fixing yarn 6 and is lowered toward the base fabric 2 along with the engaged fixing yarn 6. Thus, the functional thread 5 is placed in the weaving area 10, passing over the warp yarns 3.

[0084] exist Figure 8 In the middle (spindle rotation angle = 90°), the reed 11 continues to move backward, and the opening of the shed 8 is about to be completed. The hook 14 holds the fixed yarn 6 on the base fabric 2, and the fixed yarn guide 13 moves backward with the reed 11. The functional thread 5 remains engaged with the fixed yarn and is lowered toward the base fabric 2 without crossing the middle plane P.

[0085] exist Figure 9 (spindle rotation angle = 180°), the weft insertion device 9 inserts the anchor weft yarn 4b through the open shed 8 in the weft direction WF, thereby interweaving with the fixing yarn 6 that passes through the warp yarn 3 and extends into the shed 8.

[0086] exist Figure 10During the wefting process (spindle rotation angle = 360°), the reed 11 returns to the beat-up position to compact the anchoring weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c with the already formed base fabric 2, the functional thread 5, and the fixing yarn 6. Simultaneously, the hook 14 releases the fixing yarn 6. Consequently, a seam point SP is formed along the weft-direction extension 5b of the functional thread 5 by the fixing yarn 6 engaging the anchoring weft yarn 4b and the functional thread 5. The functional thread 5 is thus connected to the base fabric 2, while the seam point SP remains between the median plane P and the back surface B, making it invisible from the front surface F of the base fabric 2.

[0087] In a subsequent operating cycle, the functional thread 5 can be laid and fixed to the base fabric 2 in a similar manner.

[0088] In a known manner, the base weft yarn 4a and the pattern weft yarn 4c can be inserted through the open shed 8 with the anchor weft yarn 4b and / or in a subsequent weaving cycle to form the textile structure 1. The functional thread guide 12 and the fixed yarn guide 13 are independently movable relative to each other. Therefore, the deposition pattern of the functional thread 5 and the fixed yarn 6 can be independently changed in each operating cycle to give the functional thread 5 any desired final shape. In particular, when forming the warp-extending section 5a of the functional thread 5, the movement of the functional thread guide 12 in the weft direction WF is stopped, and the fixed yarn 6 is interwoven with the weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c at the stitching points SP distributed on opposite sides of the functional thread 5, extending longitudinally along the functional thread 5.

[0089] exist Figure 11 and Figure 16 In the second and third embodiments, a plurality of fixing yarns 6 are provided for each functional thread 5, and the fixing yarns 6 extend substantially parallel to each other along the warp direction WR.

[0090] according to Figure 11 Each of the fixing yarns 6 can be sewn to the anchoring weft yarn 4b at stitching points SP that are evenly spaced along a zigzag pattern extending in the warp direction WR. Consequently, the fixing yarns 6 also extend in a zigzag pattern. For some fixing yarns 6—particularly those provided for the same functional thread 5 and located on opposite sides of multiple fixing yarns 6—their zigzag patterns extend longitudinally along the functional thread 5, pressing over the functional thread 5 on each warp-extending segment 5a. Other fixing yarns 6 extend transversely along the warp direction WR, generally perpendicular to each weft-extending segment 5b.

[0091] according to Figure 11 The manufacturing method of the embodiment comprises the following steps: the functional thread 5 and the fixed yarn 6 are joined to the base fabric 2 at different rotation angles of the main shaft of the textile machine 7; Figure 12a to Figure 15 is shown schematically. In this embodiment, three different functional threads 5 are simultaneously joined to the base fabric 2. In this case, the pattern weft yarn 4c and the associated mechanical components of the weaving machine 7 are also not shown.

[0092] Figure 12a and Figure 12b (spindle rotation angle = 0°) indicates the end of the previous weaving cycle, wherein the shed 8 formed by the warp yarns 3 is closed and the reed 11 is placed in the beat-up position.

[0093] The fixed yarn guides 13, one for each fixed yarn 6, and the functional thread guides 12 are in an elevated position above the knitting area 10. The hook 14 is also in an elevated position above the knitting area 10.

[0094] Figure 13a and Figure 13b (the main shaft rotation angle is equal to or slightly greater than 0 °), representing the beginning of a new weaving cycle. The shed 8 is still closed and the reed 11 remains in the beating position.

[0095] The fixed yarn guide 13 moves slightly in the weft direction WF to move each fixed yarn 6 over the corresponding warp yarn 3 in the base fabric 2. The functional thread guide 12 moves in the weft direction WF to extend the weft-extending section 5b of the corresponding functional thread 5 over the weaving area 10. The hook 14 begins to move downward toward the weaving area 10.

[0096] Figure 14a and Figure 14b (spindle rotation angle = 180 °) represents the subsequent operating stage, in which the shed 8 formed by the warp yarns 3 is opened and the reed 11 moves backward from the beating-up position. The fixed yarn guide 13 and the functional thread guide 12 can be configured to replicate the movement of the reed 11 in the warp direction WR, with the fixed yarn guide 13 slightly forward relative to the functional thread guide 12 (i.e., farther from the reed 11 and closest to the hook 14). The fixed yarn guide 13 moves downward from its raised position and enters the shed 8 at a predetermined position, so that the fixed yarn 6 is inserted downward into the open shed 8 through the first series S1 of warp yarns 3.

[0097] At the same time, the hook 14 moves downward toward the base fabric 2 so as to bring the functional thread 5 over the weaving area 10. Thus, each functional thread 5 is held in the weaving area 10, above the warp yarns 3, without passing through the median plane P, whereas each fixing yarn 6 passes through the warp yarns 3 into the shed 8 and is stitched with the fixing yarn 6 over the corresponding functional thread 5, for example, at its weft-direction extension 5b. Subsequently, the weft insertion device 9 inserts the anchoring weft yarn 4b through the open shed 8 in the weft direction WF so as to interweave with the fixing yarn 6.

[0098] Figure 15a and Figure 15b(spindle rotation angle = 360°) marks the end of a new weaving cycle, wherein the shed 8 is closed again and the reed 11 is moved again to the beat-up position in order to compact the anchoring weft thread onto the previously formed base fabric 2 at the weaving area 10. The hook 14 releases the functional thread, while the fixed thread guides 13 retract into their raised position and move together with the functional thread 5 thread guide and the reed 11 above the base fabric 2.

[0099] In this embodiment too, the base weft yarn 4a and the pattern weft yarn 4c are inserted into the open shed 8 together with the anchoring weft yarn 4b and / or in a subsequent weaving cycle to form the textile structure 1 .

[0100] The independent movement of the functional thread guide 12 and the fixed yarn guide 13, especially the movement along the weft direction WF, enables the laying design of the functional thread 5 and the fixed yarn 6 to be adjusted as needed in each operating cycle. In particular, in the subsequent several weaving cycles, the movement of the functional thread guide 12 in the weft direction WF can be stopped to form the warp extension 5a of the functional thread 5, while the fixed yarn 6 is interwoven with the weft yarns 4a, 4b, and 4c through the stitching points SP distributed on opposite sides of the functional thread 5, along the longitudinal extension direction of the functional thread 5.

[0101] By stopping the movement of the fixed yarn guide 13 in the weft direction WF and slightly moving the functional thread 5 guide during the formation of the warp extension 5a, it is possible to obtain Figure 16 A possible alternative embodiment is shown in FIG. This alternative embodiment differs from the embodiment disclosed in FIG. 13 in that the securing yarns 6 extend straight along the warp direction WR, with all of their stitching points SP aligned with one another. In this case, the warp-direction segments 5a of the functional threads 5 extend in a zigzag pattern around the aligned stitching points SP formed by the respective securing yarns 6. The weft-direction segments 5b of the functional threads 5 are secured between two consecutive stitching points SP of each respective securing yarn 6.

[0102] exist Figure 17 and Figure 18 In the further alternative embodiment shown, the weft yarns 4a, 4b, 4c, i.e. the anchoring weft yarn 4b, are directly joined to the functional thread 5 at the back side B of the base fabric 2, thereby forming a seam point SP located between the middle plane P and the back side B, which can be seen from the Figure 17 It can be concluded.

[0103] like Figure 18 As shown, the warp-direction extending segments 5a of the functional yarn 5 are each joined to several anchoring weft yarns 4b, and each individual stitching point SP is aligned along the warp direction WR. Each stitching point SP along the weft-direction extending segment 5b is held fixed between two interlacing points IPb formed along the same anchoring weft yarn 4b, and the weft-direction extending segment 5b passes through in a diagonal manner.

[0104] This embodiment may simplify the construction and manufacture of the textile structure 1 , in particular when the functional thread 5 is strong enough to withstand the greater stresses applied during the manufacturing process.

[0105] like Figure 17 and Figure 18 The embodiment shown can be implemented by Figures 4 to 10 12 to 15 , without using a fixed yarn guide 13 and arranging the functional thread guide 12 to pass through the warp yarn 3 in the open shed 8 so that the functional thread 5 is interwoven by the anchoring weft yarn 4b at each stitching point SP, similar to the case disclosed above regarding the fixed yarn 6.

Claims

1. Textile structures, including: A base fabric (2), the base fabric (2) comprising warp yarns (3) extending in a warp direction (WR) and weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) extending in a weft direction (WF); wherein the base fabric (2) has a front side (F) and a back side (B), the front side (F) and the back side (B) being on opposite sides relative to a mid-plane (P) of the base fabric (2); wherein the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) are interwoven with the warp yarns (3) at respective interweaving points (IPa, IPb, IPc), and at the interweaving points (IPa, IPb, IPc), the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) pass through the middle plane (P) to press over at least one of the warp yarns (3); Further comprising at least one functional thread (5), the functional thread (5) extending on the back side (B) of the base fabric (2) according to a preset pattern; wherein the at least one functional thread (5) is located on the base fabric (2) and does not pass through the middle plane (P); and The functional thread (5) is connected to one or more weft yarns (4b) at a stitching point (SP) located between the middle plane (P) and the back side (B) of the base fabric (2), so that the stitching point (SP) is not visible from the front side (F) opposite to the back side (B).

2. The textile structure according to claim 1, wherein The weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) include: Basic weft yarns (4a) parallel to each other; An anchoring weft yarn (4b) configured to connect the at least one functional thread (5) to the base fabric (2): The interweaving points (IPb) formed by the anchoring weft yarn (4b) are staggered along the weft direction (WF) relative to the interweaving points (IPa) formed by the basic weft yarn (4a).

3. The textile structure according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: On the front side of the base fabric (2), the base weft yarn (4a) has a floating extension segment (FS), each of which extends straightly on a group of warp yarns (3) between corresponding interweaving points (IPa); the floating extension segments (FS) of mutually adjacent base weft yarns (4a) cover the interweaving points (IPa, IPb, IPc) of the anchoring weft yarn (4b).

4. Textile structure according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein: The weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) further include a patterned weft yarn (4c), the patterned weft yarn (4c) having a front side (F) facing the base fabric (2), an exposed extension section (ES) on the base weft yarn (4a), and a hidden extension section (HS) facing the back side (B) of the base fabric (2).

5. The textile structure according to one or more of the preceding claims further comprises at least one fixing yarn (6), which is interwoven with the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) and at least one functional thread (5) on the back side (B) of the base fabric (2) to connect the functional thread (5) to the base fabric (2).

6. The textile structure of claim 5, wherein: The at least one fixing yarn (6) is interwoven with the anchoring weft yarn (4b).

7. A textile structure according to claim 5 or 6, wherein: The at least one fixing yarn (6) extends over the functional thread (5) in a zigzag pattern along the longitudinal extension direction of the functional thread (5).

8. Textile structure according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein: Each of the at least one functional thread (5) is interwoven with the anchoring weft yarn (4b) by a plurality of mutually parallel fixing yarns (6), each fixing yarn (6) extending substantially in the warp direction (WR).

9. The textile structure according to one or more of claims 5 to 8, wherein At least one of the fixing yarns (6) extends in a zigzag pattern, pressing over the warp-extending sections (5a) of the functional threads (5).

10. The textile structure according to one or more of claims 5 to 9, wherein At least one warp-extending section (5a) of the functional thread (5) extends in a zigzag pattern, pressing over one of the fixing yarns (6).

11. Textile structure according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein: The weft yarn (4b) is directly joined to the functional thread (5) on the back side (B) of the base fabric (2).

12. A method for producing a textile structure (1), comprising: Arranging the warp yarns (3) extending in a warp direction (WR) in such a manner that a first series (S1) of warp yarns (3) and a second series (S2) of warp yarns (3) alternate with each other; inserting weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) in a weft direction (WF) transverse to the warp direction (WR) through an open shed (8) formed by the merging of the first series (S1) and the second series (S2) in the warp direction (WR) in a weaving area (10); exchanging the first series (S1) and the second series (S2) so that the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) are interwoven with the warp yarns (3) in the weaving area (10), thereby forming a base fabric (2) by interweaving the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) with the warp yarns (3) at respective interweaving points (IPa, IPb, IPc); Laying at least one functional thread (5) on the warp yarn (3) near the weaving area (10), wherein the functional thread (5) is located on the back side (B) of the base fabric (2) and does not pass through the middle plane (P) of the base fabric (2); The at least one functional thread is connected to the weft yarn (4b) by a stitching point (SP) arranged between the middle plane (P) and the back surface (B), so that the stitching point (SP) is not visible from the front surface (F) of the base fabric (2) opposite to the back surface (B).

13. The method according to claim 12, wherein: Inserting the weft yarns (4a, 4b, 4c) comprises inserting a base weft yarn (4a) and inserting an anchor weft yarn (4b) in each subsequent weaving cycle, passing through an open shed (8), connecting the functional thread (5) to the anchor weft yarn (4b).

14. The method according to claim 12 or 13, wherein: Connecting the at least one functional thread (5) comprises forming at least one stitching point (SP) by means of a fixing yarn (6), said stitching point (SP) joining the anchoring weft yarn (4b) and the functional thread (5).

15. The method according to one or more of claims 12 to 14, further comprising: inserting the functional thread (5) into the open shed (8) through one of the first series (S1) and the second series (S2) of warp yarns (3); as well as The weft yarn (4b) introduced through the open shed (8) is interwoven with the functional thread (5).

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