A composition with penetration-promoting efficacy and use thereof

Artemisia argyi extract is prepared by fermenting Artemisia argyi oil using a combination of ethoxydiethylene glycol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, Artemisia argyi extract, and tea tree oil. This method solves the problem of single penetration enhancer ingredients in cosmetics and achieves efficient, safe, and long-lasting penetration effects and skin absorption and utilization of active ingredients.

CN120754009BActive Publication Date: 2025-11-07SHANGHAI YOUREN BIOTECHNOLOGY CO LTD +1
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202511288915.1
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2025-09-10
Publication Date
2025-11-07
Estimated Expiration
2045-09-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Current cosmetics contain only one type of penetration enhancer, which cannot improve the transdermal effect and the skin's absorption and utilization rate of the active ingredients from multiple dimensions. The application of current penetration enhancers has not fully considered the skin's absorption and utilization rate of the active ingredients in cosmetics.

Method used

A combination of ethoxydiethylene glycol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, Artemisia argyi extract and tea tree oil was used to prepare Artemisia argyi extract by fermenting Artemisia argyi oil. The synergistic effect of these components was utilized to improve skin permeability and enhance affinity and penetration into the stratum corneum of the skin.

Benefits of technology

It achieves efficient, safe, and long-lasting penetration, is suitable for delivering highly active ingredients in cosmetics, improves the skin's absorption and utilization of active ingredients, and reduces skin irritation.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
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Abstract

The present application relates to a composition with penetration promoting effect and application thereof, the composition comprises the following components by weight: 10-15 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 10-15 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 5-10 parts of artemisia leaf extract and 1-6 parts of tea tree essential oil. The penetration promoting composition of the present application discards the traditional easily sensitizing azone and the easily irritating ethanol, and finally realizes the efficient, safe and long-lasting penetration effect, which is suitable for the delivery demand of high active ingredients of cosmetics.
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Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition with penetration promoting effect and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] In the current field of cosmetic technology, there are various types of commonly used penetration promoters, mainly including surfactants (such as cationic, anionic, non-ionic surfactants and lecithin), azone compounds, alcohol compounds (such as ethanol, propylene glycol, etc.), fatty alcohols or fatty acids (such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and lauryl alcohol, etc.), keratin moisturizing agents (such as urea, salicylic acid, etc.), terpene compounds (such as menthol, brain, limonene, etc.).

[0003] However, in the actual production process of cosmetics, the commonly used penetration promoter components are often single, usually only one or one type of penetration promoter is used, which leads to the inability to improve the penetration effect of the product from multiple dimensions, and the overall penetration performance is not satisfactory. In addition, the application of existing penetration promoters has not fully considered the absorption and utilization rate of skin to the effective components in cosmetics. For cosmetics, good transdermal effect and absorption of effective components by skin are equally important, and both determine the final effect of improving skin, so penetration and absorption are indispensable.

[0004] In view of this, there is an urgent need in the art to develop new penetration technology to significantly improve the transdermal and absorption effect of cosmetics through comprehensive multi-dimensional means. SUMMARY

[0005] The purpose of the present application is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a composition with penetration promoting effect and application thereof.

[0006] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the present application is as follows:

[0007] In a first aspect, the present application provides a composition with penetration promoting effect, comprising the following components by weight: 10-15 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 10-15 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 5-10 parts of Artemisia argyi extract and 1-6 parts of tea tree essential oil; wherein the preparation method of the Artemisia argyi extract comprises the following steps:

[0008] S1, crushing Artemisia argyi and soaking in deionized water, and extracting by steam distillation to obtain Artemisia argyi oil;

[0009] S2, inoculating the compound fermentation broth into the fermentation medium for fermentation to obtain the fermentation broth; wherein the compound fermentation broth comprises Bacillus licheniformis liquid, Pseudomonas syringae liquid and Saccharomyces galactosus-like liquid;

[0010] S3, the Artemisia argyi oil obtained in step S1 is added to the fermentation liquor obtained in step S2 for continued fermentation culture, and after obtaining a fermentation product, demulsification is performed to separate water and oil into two phases, centrifugation is performed, the upper oil phase is taken, and the Artemisia argyi extract is obtained.

[0011] The ethoxydiglycol of the present application is a hydrophilic small molecule alcohol ether, has good water solubility and skin compatibility, causes slight disorder of the lipid structure of the stratum corneum, increases the fluidity of the stratum corneum, and provides a penetration channel for other ingredients; the isosorbide dimethyl ether is a cyclic ether compound, has relatively strong lipophilicity, can dissolve liposoluble ingredients, and promote the penetration of the liposoluble ingredients through the lipid barrier of the skin; the ethoxydiglycol and the isosorbide dimethyl ether can take into account the dissolution and penetration of hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients, form a "water-lipid dual-phase penetration enhancement system", and improve the skin penetration efficiency of the overall ingredients.

[0012] The tea tree essential oil contains terpene ingredients, can affect the lipid molecular structure of the stratum corneum, and reduce the skin barrier resistance; the liposoluble characteristics of the tea tree essential oil can synergize with the isosorbide dimethyl ether, enhance the affinity for the stratum corneum of the skin, and assist other ingredients to penetrate the lipid barrier.

[0013] The mechanism of each step in the preparation method of the Artemisia argyi extract of the present application is as follows:

[0014] S1: The water distillation method is used to extract the Artemisia argyi oil: the volatile oil (such as volatile terpenes and phenols) in the Artemisia argyi has volatility, and when water distillation is performed, the water vapor carries the volatile oil to the condensing system to form an oil-water mixture, and finally the Artemisia argyi oil is separated and obtained, providing a basic raw material for subsequent fermentation.

[0015] S2: Preparation of fermented Artemisia argyi oil: the lipase produced by the spherical lysine bacillus can decompose large molecular lipids (such as triglycerides and phospholipids) in the Artemisia argyi oil into small molecular short-chain fatty acids and glycerol, so that they are more easily passed through the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum, and can also improve the skin moisturizing effect; the short-chain fatty acids belong to anti-inflammatory factors, which can inhibit the release of IL-6 and TNF-α, and reduce erythema and stinging; the Pseudomonas syringae secretes a large amount of cyclic lipopeptides and other surfactants during fermentation, these cyclic lipopeptides can spontaneously emulsify the Artemisia argyi oil into O / W nano emulsion, which can effectively reduce the surface interfacial tension, so that the oil droplets are more easily penetrate the microcracks of the stratum corneum; the cutinase and protease produced by the Saccharomyces galactosus-like fungus can slightly hydrolyze the keratin of the stratum corneum to produce transient "micropores", and the organic acids (lactic acid and citric acid) produced by the metabolism of the bacterial body can reduce the local pH to 4.5-5.0, further softening the stratum corneum to improve the penetration effect; the metabolic products obtained by fermentation of the above three kinds of fermentation bacteria have synergistic effects in many aspects such as optimizing dispersibility by producing surfactants, decomposing macromolecules to increase the proportion of small molecules, reducing irritation, and maintaining skin permeability, which finally significantly improves the penetration effect of the Artemisia argyi extract.

[0016] Preferably, in the preparation step S1 of the folium artemisiae argyi extract, the amount of deionized water added is 8-10 times the total mass of folium artemisiae argyi, and the soaking time is 3-5 h.

[0017] Preferably, in the preparation step S2 of the folium artemisiae argyi extract, the inoculation amount of the composite fermentation bacterial solution is 1-5% v / v, the viable bacterial count of the composite fermentation bacterial solution is 3×10 9 -3×10 10 CFU / mL, the viable bacterial count ratio of Bacillus sphaericus, Pseudomonas syringae and Saccharomyces galactosus in the composite fermentation bacterial solution is (1-2):(1-3):1, and the fermentation temperature is 30-35℃ and the time is 15-18 h.

[0018] In the preparation step S3 of the folium artemisiae argyi extract, the volume ratio of the folium artemisiae argyi oil to the fermentation medium is (2-3):1, the temperature for continuing the fermentation culture is 30-35℃ and the time is 18-24 h, the demulsification is carried out by adding a hydrochloric acid solution and sodium chloride in the fermentation product, the mass concentration of the hydrochloric acid solution is 15-20%, and the mass ratio of the fermentation product, the hydrochloric acid solution and the sodium chloride is 1:(0.01-0.05):(0.1-0.3).

[0019] Preferably, the mass ratio of the folium artemisiae argyi extract to the tea tree oil is (7-9):(2-4).

[0020] In the second aspect, the application provides an application of the composition with penetration-promoting effect in the first aspect in the preparation of a cosmetic.

[0021] Compared with the prior art, the application has the following beneficial effects:

[0022] The folium artemisiae argyi extract in the composition of the application is prepared by fermentation of folium artemisiae argyi oil, which contains a large amount of olefin terpenoids. The olefin terpenoids can change the conformation, properties and binding force between keratins in the keratin layer cells, form micro-porous channels, and increase the penetration of active ingredients through the intracellular pathway. After fermentation, the macromolecular substances in the folium artemisiae argyi oil are decomposed into small molecular substances, and biosurfactants are also generated. The penetration-promoting effect of the folium artemisiae argyi extract is significantly improved, the irritation to the skin is reduced, and the bioavailability is improved. The four components, i.e., ethoxydiglycol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, folium artemisiae argyi extract and tea tree oil, have a synergistic effect and have the effects of penetration promotion and antioxidant. The penetration-promoting composition of the application discards the traditional easily sensitizing azone and easily irritating ethanol, and finally realizes efficient, safe and long-lasting penetration effect, which is suitable for the delivery of high active ingredients in cosmetics. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] To better illustrate the purposes, technical solutions and advantages of the application, the application will be further described below with reference to specific embodiments.

[0024] The sources and related information of raw materials used in the following examples and comparative examples are as follows:

[0025] Ethoxydiglycol: CAS No. 111-90-0;

[0026] Isosorbide dimethyl ether: CAS No. 5306-85-4;

[0027] Artemisia argyi: Qichun County, Hubei Province, China;

[0028] Tea tree essential oil: purchased from Fenmeixiangliao (China) Co., Ltd., model No. Tea tree essential oil 957260;

[0029] Bacillus licheniformis: purchased from China General Microbiological Culture Collection Center, preservation number: CGMCC 1.2410;

[0030] Pseudomonas syringae: purchased from China General Microbiological Culture Collection Center, preservation number: CGMCC 1.3333;

[0031] Galactomyces geotrichum: purchased from Guangdong Microbial Culture Collection Center, preservation number: GDMCC NO: 64235.

[0032] Other materials, reagents, etc. used in the examples and comparative examples can be obtained from commercial channels unless otherwise specified.

[0033] Example 1

[0034] A composition with penetration enhancing effect, comprising the following components by weight: 12 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 14 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 8 parts of Artemisia argyi extract, and 3 parts of tea tree essential oil;

[0035] The preparation method of the Artemisia argyi extract comprises the following steps:

[0036] S1, crushing Artemisia argyi and adding deionized water for soaking, and using water distillation extraction to obtain Artemisia argyi oil; wherein the addition amount of deionized water is 9 times the total mass of Artemisia argyi, and the soaking time is 4 h;

[0037] S2, inoculating the compound fermentation bacteria liquid into the fermentation medium for fermentation to obtain a fermentation liquid; wherein the compound fermentation bacteria liquid comprises Bacillus licheniformis liquid, Pseudomonas syringae liquid and Galactomyces geotrichum liquid; wherein the inoculation amount of the compound fermentation bacteria liquid is 3% v / v, and the viable bacterial count of the compound fermentation bacteria liquid is 8×10 9CFU / mL, the ratio of the viable cell number of Bacillus sphaericus lysine, Pseudomonas syringae and galactose yeast-like bacteria in the compound fermentation bacteria liquid is 1.8:2.5:1, the fermentation temperature is 32℃, and the fermentation time is 16h; the formula of the fermentation medium is: glucose 18g / L, yeast extract 7g / L and rice 15g / L;

[0038] S3, adding the Artemisia leaf oil obtained in step S1 into the fermentation liquid obtained in step S2 to continue fermentation culture, obtaining a fermentation product, demulsifying the fermentation product to separate water and oil phases, centrifuging, and taking the upper oil phase to obtain the Artemisia leaf extract; wherein, the volume ratio of the Artemisia leaf oil to the fermentation medium is 2.5:1, the temperature for continuing fermentation culture is 32℃, and the time for continuing fermentation culture is 20h, the demulsification is carried out by adding a hydrochloric acid solution and sodium chloride to the fermentation product, the mass concentration of the hydrochloric acid solution is 18%, and the mass ratio of the fermentation product, the hydrochloric acid solution and sodium chloride is 1:0.03:0.2.

[0039] Example 2

[0040] A composition with penetration-promoting efficacy, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 10 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 10 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 7 parts of Artemisia leaf extract and 2 parts of tea tree essential oil;

[0041] The preparation method of the Artemisia leaf extract comprises the following steps:

[0042] S1, crushing Artemisia leaves, adding deionized water to soak, and using water distillation to extract to obtain Artemisia leaf oil; wherein, the added amount of deionized water is 8 times the total mass of the Artemisia leaves, and the soaking time is 3h;

[0043] S2, inoculating a compound fermentation bacteria liquid into a fermentation medium to carry out fermentation, and obtaining a fermentation liquid; wherein, the compound fermentation bacteria liquid comprises Bacillus sphaericus lysine liquid, Pseudomonas syringae liquid and galactose yeast-like bacteria liquid; wherein, the inoculation amount of the compound fermentation bacteria liquid is 1%v / v, and the viable cell number of the compound fermentation bacteria liquid is 3×10 10 CFU / mL, the ratio of the viable cell number of Bacillus sphaericus lysine, Pseudomonas syringae and galactose yeast-like bacteria in the compound fermentation bacteria liquid is 1:3:1, the fermentation temperature is 30℃, and the fermentation time is 18h; the formula of the fermentation medium is: glucose 18g / L, yeast extract 7g / L and rice 15g / L;

[0044] S3, continue to ferment the Artemisia argyi oil obtained in step S1 into the fermentation liquor obtained in step S2, obtain a fermentation product, break the emulsion, separate the water and oil phases, centrifuge, take the upper oil phase, and obtain the Artemisia argyi extract; wherein the volume ratio of the Artemisia argyi oil to the fermentation medium is 2:1, the temperature for the continued fermentation is 30℃, and the time for the continued fermentation is 24h, the emulsion breaking is carried out by adding a hydrochloric acid solution and sodium chloride into the fermentation product, the mass concentration of the hydrochloric acid solution is 20%, and the mass ratio of the fermentation product, the hydrochloric acid solution, and the sodium chloride is 1:0.01:0.1.

[0045] Example 3

[0046] A composition with penetration promoting effect, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 15 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 9 parts of Artemisia argyi extract, and 4 parts of tea tree essential oil.

[0047] The preparation method of the Artemisia argyi extract comprises the following steps:

[0048] S1, crushing Artemisia argyi and then soaking in deionized water, and extracting by steam distillation to obtain Artemisia argyi oil; wherein the amount of deionized water added is 10 times the total mass of Artemisia argyi, and the soaking time is 3h;

[0049] S2, inoculating the composite fermentation bacteria liquor into a fermentation medium to ferment and obtain a fermentation liquor; wherein the composite fermentation bacteria liquor comprises Bacillus licheniformis liquid, Pseudomonas syringae liquid, and Saccharomyces galactosus-like bacteria liquid; wherein the inoculation amount of the composite fermentation bacteria liquor is 5% v / v, the viable cell count of the composite fermentation bacteria liquor is 3×10 9 CFU / mL, the viable cell count ratio of Bacillus licheniformis liquid, Pseudomonas syringae liquid, and Saccharomyces galactosus-like bacteria liquid in the composite fermentation bacteria liquor is 2:1:1, the fermentation temperature is 35℃, and the fermentation time is 15h; the formula of the fermentation medium is: glucose 18g / L, yeast extract 7g / L, and rice 15g / L;

[0050] S3, continue to ferment the Artemisia argyi oil obtained in step S1 into the fermentation liquor obtained in step S2, obtain a fermentation product, break the emulsion, separate the water and oil phases, centrifuge, take the upper oil phase, and obtain the Artemisia argyi extract; wherein the volume ratio of the Artemisia argyi oil to the fermentation medium is 2:1, the temperature for the continued fermentation is 30℃, and the time for the continued fermentation is 24h, the emulsion breaking is carried out by adding a hydrochloric acid solution and sodium chloride into the fermentation product, the mass concentration of the hydrochloric acid solution is 20%, and the mass ratio of the fermentation product, the hydrochloric acid solution, and the sodium chloride is 1:0.01:0.1.

[0051] Example 4

[0052] Example 4 differs from Example 1 only in that a composition having a penetration- promoting effect includes the following components in parts by weight: 12 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 14 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 10 parts of Artemisia Argyi extract, and 1 part of tea tree essential oil.

[0053] Example 5

[0054] Example 5 differs from Example 1 only in that a composition having a penetration- promoting effect includes the following components in parts by weight: 12 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 14 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 5 parts of Artemisia Argyi extract, and 6 parts of tea tree essential oil.

[0055] Comparative Example 1

[0056] Comparative Example 1 differs from Example 1 only in that Comparative Example 1 does not add ethoxydiglycol, and the missing amount is made up of isosorbide dimethyl ether, Artemisia Argyi extract, and tea tree essential oil in a mass ratio of 14:8:3.

[0057] Comparative Example 2

[0058] Comparative Example 2 differs from Example 1 only in that Comparative Example 2 does not add isosorbide dimethyl ether, and the missing amount is made up of ethoxydiglycol, Artemisia Argyi extract, and tea tree essential oil in a mass ratio of 12:8:3.

[0059] Comparative Example 3

[0060] Comparative Example 3 differs from Example 1 only in that Comparative Example 3 does not add tea tree essential oil, and the missing amount is made up of ethoxydiglycol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, and Artemisia Argyi extract in a mass ratio of 12:14:8.

[0061] Comparative Example 4

[0062] Comparative Example 4 differs from Example 1 only in that Comparative Example 4 does not add Artemisia Argyi extract, and the missing amount is made up of ethoxydiglycol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, and tea tree essential oil in a mass ratio of 12:14:3.

[0063] Comparative Example 5

[0064] Comparative Example 5 differs from Example 1 only in that Comparative Example 5 does not add Artemisia Argyi extract, and an equal amount of Artemisia Argyi oil is used instead of Artemisia Argyi extract, and the Artemisia Argyi oil is prepared using the preparation step S1 of Artemisia Argyi extract in Example 1.

[0065] Comparative Example 6

[0066] Comparative Example 6 differs from Example 1 only in that, in the preparation step S2 of the leaf of Chinese mugwort extract of Comparative Example 6, the complex fermentation bacterial liquid is not added with P. syringae liquid, and the total viable bacterial count is supplemented with P. syringae liquid and galactose yeast-like bacteria liquid at a ratio of 2.5:1.

[0067] Comparative Example 7

[0068] Comparative Example 7 differs from Example 1 only in that, in the preparation step S2 of the leaf of Chinese mugwort extract of Comparative Example 7, the complex fermentation bacterial liquid is not added with P. syringae liquid, and the total viable bacterial count is supplemented with P. syringae liquid and galactose yeast-like bacteria liquid at a ratio of 1.8:1.

[0069] Comparative Example 8

[0070] Comparative Example 8 differs from Example 1 only in that, in the preparation step S2 of the leaf of Chinese mugwort extract of Comparative Example 8, the complex fermentation bacterial liquid is not added with galactose yeast-like bacteria liquid, and the total viable bacterial count is supplemented with P. syringae liquid and galactose yeast-like bacteria liquid at a ratio of 1.8:2.5.

[0071] Performance test

[0072] 1. Transdermal test

[0073] In order to verify the penetration-enhancing effect of the composition of the present application, each group of penetration-enhancing compositions is mixed with ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate at a mass ratio of 9:1 to obtain each sample group, and the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate in the sample is accurately quantified by GC-MS (gas chromatography-mass spectrometry), and if the transdermal amount is significantly increased, the penetration-enhancing effect of the penetration-enhancing composition can be directly proved.

[0074] Test animals: 52 male ICR mice (20±2g) were purchased from Beijing Vital River Laboratory Animal Technology Co., Ltd.

[0075] In this test example, the in vitro transdermal effect of the compositions of Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 was evaluated by a transdermal diffusion tester. Healthy male ICR mice with intact skin were anesthetized with 2wt% chloral hydrate, their abdominal fur was removed, they were sacrificed by decapitation, the abdominal skin was peeled off, and the excess fat and mucous tissue was carefully removed and washed, then placed in physiological saline and stored at -20°C for later use. Thirteen experimental groups (i.e. the compositions of Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8) were set up, with 4 mice in each group.

[0076] After thawing at room temperature, the mouse skin in vitro was fixed between the upper and lower chambers of the Franz diffusion cell, with the horny layer facing up. The upper chamber was the supply chamber, and 0.5 g of each sample to be tested was added. The lower chamber was the receiving cell, and the receiving liquid in the receiving cell was 30% ethanol physiological saline, which was in direct contact with the dermis layer of the skin. A magnetic stirring rod was placed in the receiving cell, and the in vitro transdermal experiment was carried out under the condition of a stirring speed of 300 rpm and a water bath temperature of (37±1) °C. 0.2 mL of sample was taken every hour within 1-12 h, and immediately supplemented with an equal volume of fresh blank receiving liquid. The cumulative permeation amount per unit area (Q 12 ).

[0077] The calculation formula is as follows:

[0078]

[0079] In the formula, C n is the drug (tetraisopalmitate ascorbate) concentration (μg / mL) at the nth sampling point, C i is the drug (tetraisopalmitate ascorbate) concentration (μg / mL) at the ith sampling point, the value of i ranges from the first sampling point (i=1) to the second last sampling point (i=n−1), A is the effective drug administration area (3.14 cm 2 ), and V is the receiving liquid volume (mL). The results are averaged, and are shown in Table 1.

[0080] Table 1: Cumulative permeation amount per unit area (Q 12

[0081] Group / property Q of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 12 (μg / cm 2 )]]> Example 1 43.61 Example 2 43.13 Example 3 43.58 Example 4 41.95 Example 5 41.07 Comparative Example 1 30.61 Comparative Example 2 29.97 Comparative Example 3 33.84 Comparative Example 4 32.22 Comparative Example 5 35.07 Comparative Example 6 37.49 Comparative Example 7 36.73 Comparative Example 8 37.25

[0082] The greater the cumulative permeation amount per unit area of tetraisopalmitate ascorbate in the sample within 12 h, the better the transdermal performance of the sample, that is, the better the penetration-enhancing performance of the penetration-enhancing composition.

[0083] As shown in Table 1, in combination with the data of Example 1 and Examples 4-5, the transdermal performance of tetraisopalmitate ascorbate in the samples of Examples 4-5 is lower than that of Example 1, which may be because: in Example 4, the amount of mulberry leaf extract is excessive, and the amount of tea tree oil is insufficient, and the terpene components (such as pinene-4-ol) in tea tree oil synergistically solubilize the fat-soluble active substance (tetraisopalmitate ascorbate) with ethoxydiglycol, so that the transdermal effect of the sample is poor. In Example 5, the amount of tea tree oil is excessive, and the amount of mulberry leaf extract is insufficient, and the active terpene penetration enhancer in the mulberry leaf extract is lacking, resulting in a decrease in the penetration-enhancing performance.

[0084] From the data of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4, it can be seen that the performance of Comparative Examples 1-4 is significantly lower than that of Example 1, which can be due to the following reasons: Comparative Example 1 lacks ethoxydiglycol to dissolve intercellular lipids, reducing the penetration path; Comparative Example 2 lacks isosorbide dimethyl ether (DMIS) to dissolve active ingredients, thereby affecting the penetration effect; Comparative Example 3 lacks Artemisia leaf extract, i.e., lacks the enetene compounds and biosurfactants in the Artemisia leaf extract, thereby causing the penetration effect to decrease; and Comparative Example 4 lacks tea tree oil, i.e., lacks the enetene small molecules in the tea tree oil, thereby causing the ability of the active substance to penetrate the stratum corneum to decrease. The four components in the composition of the present application synergistically improve the penetration effect of the active ingredient, and when any one of ethoxydiglycol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, Artemisia leaf extract, and tea tree oil is absent, the penetration effect of the composition decreases.

[0085] From the data of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 5-8, it can be seen that the performance of Comparative Examples 5-8 is significantly lower than that of Example 1, which can be due to the following reasons: Comparative Example 5 lacks the fermentation step of Artemisia leaf oil, and lacks the organic acids and enzymes produced by fermentation, which cannot effectively decompose macromolecules and generate surfactants, thereby significantly reducing the penetration performance. Comparative Examples 6-8 each lack one of the complex microbial agents used for fermentation of the Artemisia leaf extract, and the performance of each of Comparative Examples 6-8 is significantly reduced, indicating that the metabolites produced by fermentation of the Artemisia leaf oil in the Artemisia leaf extract of the present application by Bacillus sphaericus, Pseudomonas syringae, and Saccharomyces galactosus optimize dispersibility, decompose macromolecules to increase the proportion of small molecules, reduce irritation, and maintain skin permeability through synergistic effects in multiple aspects, thereby significantly improving the penetration effect of the Artemisia leaf oil.

[0086] 2. DPPH inhibition rate test

[0087] The ability of the extract to scavenge free radicals was determined by the DPPH free radical scavenging method. Methanol was used as a blank solution, and a DPPH solution was used as a control. The absorbance was measured at 517 nm. The compositions of Example 1-5 and Comparative Examples 5-8 were prepared into aqueous solutions with a mass concentration of 1% as test samples, and the free radical scavenging capacity was calculated using the following formula.

[0088] DPPH inhibition rate (%) = 1 - [(OD 样品- OD 空白 ) / (OD 对照- OD 空白 )] x 100%. In the formula, OD 对照 is the absorbance of the DPPH solution, OD 空白 is the absorbance of the pure methanol solution, and OD 样品 is the absorbance of the DPPH solution with different concentrations of the extract added. The specific data are shown in Table 2.

[0089] Table 2: DPPH inhibition rate of each group of samples

[0090] Group / property DPPH inhibition rate / % Example 1 94.31 Example 2 92.80 Example 3 93.72 Example 4 90.22 Example 5 92.15 Comparative Example 5 70.31 Comparative Example 6 81.46 Comparative Example 7 82.03 Comparative Example 8 81.29

[0091] The higher the inhibition rate of DPPH is, the better the antioxidant effect of the sample is.

[0092] As shown in Table 2, the composition has good antioxidant effect. In combination with the data of Example 1 and Examples 4-5, it can be known that the antioxidant effects of Examples 4-5 are lower than that of Example 1. In combination with the antioxidant effect and cost of the composition, it can be known that the mass ratio of the folium artemisiae argyi extract and the tea tree essential oil should be in the range of (7-9):(2-4).

[0093] In combination with the data of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 5-8, it can be known that the antioxidant effects of Comparative Examples 5-8 are lower than that of Example 1. This may be because: the folium artemisiae argyi oil of Comparative Example 5 is not subjected to fermentation treatment, and the free flavonoids and the active ingredients enhanced by fermentation are missing, so that the antioxidant effect of the composition is reduced. The folium artemisiae argyi extract obtained by fermenting the folium artemisiae argyi oil by the combination of Lysinibacillus sphaericus, Pseudomonas syringae and Saccharomyces galactosus can effectively improve the antioxidant effect of the composition, while Comparative Examples 6-8 are missing any of the complex microbial agents used for fermentation of the folium artemisiae argyi extract, which will lead to a significant reduction in the antioxidant effect of the composition.

[0094] 3. Safety test

[0095] According to the 2015 Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification as a reference standard, the compositions of Examples 1-5 are diluted with water to obtain a 10% suspension, and then five groups of sample are subjected to cosmetic irritation evaluation. The test method is a skin patch test, and 12 people aged 15-50 years old are randomly distributed for testing.

[0096] Test method: the test substance is placed in a patch tester, and the amount is 5g. The patch tester with five groups of test substances is covered with a non-irritating cloth-based adhesive tape on the back of the test subject, and the skin surface is evenly attached by pressing with the palm for 24 hours. After 30 minutes of removing the test patch tester, the skin reaction is observed after the indentation disappears. If the result is negative, the observation is performed again at 24 hours and 48 hours after the patch test.

[0097] Test results: the skin reactions of all the test subjects are negative. It shows that the compositions of Examples 1-5 are mild and non-irritating to the skin, and are safe to use.

[0098] In summary, the penetration composition of the present application realizes efficient, safe and long-lasting penetration effect through the synergy of each component, and is suitable for the delivery of high-activity ingredients of cosmetics.

[0099] Finally, it should be noted that the above examples are merely intended to illustrate the technical solutions of the present application and not to limit the protection scope of the present application. Although the present application has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present application can be modified or equivalently replaced without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims

1. A composition having a penetration enhancing effect, characterized by, The composition comprises the following components by weight: 10-15 parts of ethoxydiglycol, 10-15 parts of isosorbide dimethyl ether, 5-10 parts of leafy mulberry extract, and 1-6 parts of tea tree essential oil; wherein the preparation method of the leafy mulberry extract comprises the following steps: S1, crushing the leafy mulberry and soaking in deionized water, and extracting by steam distillation to obtain leafy mulberry oil; S2, inoculating the compound fermentation broth into the fermentation medium for fermentation to obtain the fermentation broth; wherein the compound fermentation broth comprises Bacillus licheniformis liquid, Pseudomonas syringae liquid and Saccharomyces galactosus-like liquid, and the viable count ratio of Bacillus licheniformis liquid, Pseudomonas syringae liquid and Saccharomyces galactosus-like liquid in the compound fermentation broth is (1-2):(1-3):1; S3, adding the leafy mulberry oil obtained in step S1 into the fermentation broth obtained in step S2 for further fermentation culture, obtaining the fermentation product, breaking the emulsion, separating the water and oil two phases, centrifuging, taking the upper oil phase, and obtaining the leafy mulberry extract.

2. The composition having penetration enhancing effect according to claim 1, wherein In the preparation step S1 of the leafy mulberry extract, the amount of deionized water added is 8-10 times the total mass of the leafy mulberry, and the soaking time is 3-5 h.

3. The composition having penetration enhancing effect according to claim 1, wherein In the preparation step S2 of the Artemisia argyi extract, the inoculation amount of the complex fermentation bacterial liquid is 1-5% v / v, the viable bacterial count of the complex fermentation bacterial liquid is 3×10 9 CFU / mL, and the fermentation temperature is 30-35℃ for 15-18h. 10 CFU / mL, and the fermentation temperature is 30-35℃ for 15-18h.

4. The composition having penetration enhancing effect according to claim 1, wherein In the preparation step S3 of the leafy mulberry extract, the volume ratio of the leafy mulberry oil to the fermentation medium is (2-3):1, the temperature for further fermentation culture is 30-35℃, and the time is 18-24 h, the breaking of the emulsion is carried out by adding hydrochloric acid solution and sodium chloride, the mass concentration of the hydrochloric acid solution is 15-20%, and the mass ratio of the fermentation product, the hydrochloric acid solution and the sodium chloride is 1:(0.01-0.05):(0.1-0.3).

5. The composition having penetration enhancing effect according to claim 1, wherein The mass ratio of the leafy mulberry extract to the tea tree essential oil is (7-9):(2-4).

6. Use of the composition with penetration enhancing effect according to any one of claims 1-5 in the preparation of a cosmetic product.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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