Wool-like yarn and fabric made of wool-like yarn

Abstract

The invention discloses a wool-like yarn. The yarn contains 50 wt% or more of short fibers, the short fibers have two or more fiber lengths, the short fiber A1 with the largest fiber length accounts for 10-50 wt% of the weight of the short fibers, and the difference value of the static friction factor and the dynamic friction factor between the fibers in the short fibers is 0.15-0.40. The wool-like yarn has soft matte feeling and plush feeling similar to wool yarn, neps are few, and fabric made of the wool-like yarn is good in wool-like effect and can be widely applied to manufacturing of wool-like woven jackets, shirts, tools and the like.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to wool-like yarn and fabric made from the same. Background Art

[0002] With the improvement of people's living standards and the change of clothing trends, the requirements for new yarns are constantly updated, giving rise to wool-like short fibers, and making the development of wool-like yarns and textiles a hot topic.

[0003] For example, patent document CN110396741A discloses a wool-like yarn spun from a blend of 65% polyester fibers with a length of 25 mm, 12.25% viscose fibers with a length of 37.4 mm, and 22.75% viscose fibers with a length of 30.4 mm. The yarn utilizes a blend of two or more fibers of varying lengths to simulate the non-uniform distribution characteristics of natural wool fibers. Although the yarn achieves an appearance with a staggered and striped feel similar to that of wool-like yarn, the yarn suffers from an insufficient wool-like style due to insufficient fiber length.

[0004] For example, the academic literature "Development of high-shrinkage wool-type acrylic yarn based on cotton spinning equipment" (Guo Siming, Zhu Yiqi. Development of high-shrinkage wool-type acrylic yarn based on cotton spinning equipment [J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2017, 45(8): 3. DOI: CNKI: SUN: MFJS.0.2017-08-019.) discloses the development of wool-like yarn using wool-type acrylic staple fibers. Specifically, it discloses the use of wool-type length fibers to simulate the distribution characteristics of wool length. However, the number of cotton knots in the yarn product with a specification of +200% mass percentage reaches 149 / km, and there is a problem of excessive cotton knots and poor quality. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The object of the present invention is to provide a wool-like yarn which has a soft matte and plush feel similar to wool yarn and has less cotton neps.

[0006] Another object of the present invention is to provide a wool-like fabric made from the wool-like yarn, which has a good wool-like effect.

[0007] The technical solution of the present invention:

[0008] A wool-like yarn contains more than 50% by weight of staple fibers, wherein the staple fibers have two or more fiber lengths, wherein the staple fibers A1 with the longest fiber length account for 10 to 50% by weight of the staple fibers, and the difference between the static friction coefficient and the dynamic friction coefficient between the staple fibers is 0.15 to 0.40.

[0009] The present application selects short fibers with two or more fiber lengths, controls the content of short fibers and the friction coefficient between fibers, and obtains a wool-like yarn with soft and matte feeling and less neps. The fabric made of the wool-like yarn has good wool-like effect and can be widely used in manufacturing wool-like woven outerwear, shirts and workwear. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0010] Figure 1 The figure is a schematic diagram of the short fibers (with two fiber lengths) of the present application. Wherein, I is the short fiber A1 with the longest fiber length, and II is the short fiber A2 with the second longest fiber length.

[0011] Figure 2 The figure is a schematic diagram of the short fibers (with three fiber lengths) of the present application. Wherein, I is the short fiber A1 with the longest fiber length, II is the short fiber A2 with the second longest fiber length, and III is the short fiber A3 with the third longest fiber length.

[0012] Figure 3 The figure is an appearance diagram of the wool-like fabric made of the wool-like yarn of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0013] The wool-like yarn of the present application contains 50 wt% or more of short fibers, the short fibers have a curled appearance and a curling elasticity, and the fabric made of the yarn with a short fiber content of 50 wt% or more has good wool-like effect. The wool-like effect refers to that the fabric has soft and matte feeling, irregular thick and thin shadow appearance, and fluff and bulkiness similar to wool yarn.

[0014] The wool-like yarn of the present application contains short fibers with two or more fiber lengths, wherein the short fiber A1 with the longest fiber length accounts for 10-50 wt% of the weight of the short fibers. The design of the short fiber A1 with the longest fiber length is the key to obtaining the wool-like yarn. When the content of the short fiber A1 is less than 10%, the number of long fluffs of the yarn is too small, and the wool-like feeling of the yarn is weak. When the content of the short fiber A1 is more than 50%, the wrapping area of the yarn surface by the short fiber A1 is large, so that a part of the fluffs is covered, thereby reducing the number of fluffs and weakening the wool-like feeling of the yarn. In addition, when the content of the short fiber A1 is more than 50%, the yarn will tend to be stable, and the corresponding irregular thick and thin shadow appearance of the fabric made of the yarn will also be weakened. Therefore, the short fiber A1 with the longest fiber length accounts for 10-50 wt% of the weight of the short fibers.

[0015] In the short fibers of the present application, in addition to the above-mentioned short fiber Al of the longest fiber length, short fibers of other fiber lengths are also contained, and according to the fiber length, they are sequentially named as short fiber A2, short fiber A3, Ai (i = 4, 5,... X) from long to short. In this way, the fiber length of the obtained yarn has a gradient change, and is more like a natural wool fiber yarn. For the fibers within each fiber length section, the length deviation rate is preferably within ± 5%.

[0016] In the present application, the difference between the static friction coefficient and the dynamic friction coefficient of the short fibers is 0.15-0.40. This is because the static friction coefficient can represent the ease of aggregation between short fibers, for example, a large static friction coefficient indicates that the fibers are more likely to aggregate and form a larger percentage of neps; the dynamic friction coefficient can represent the ease of continuous distribution of fibers along the yarn body, for example, a large dynamic friction coefficient indicates that the fiber distribution is more uniform and the formed appearance has a soft and good shadow. In the present application, the difference between the static friction coefficient and the dynamic friction coefficient is used to represent whether the fabric has an irregular thick and thin shadow appearance and the ease of improving the neps. When the difference is less than 0.15, the static friction coefficient is too small and the dynamic friction coefficient is too large, although it is beneficial to reduce the neps, but at this time the fibers of different lengths will tend to form fixed distribution areas, resulting in a lack of irregularity in the wool-like shadow appearance; when the difference is greater than 0.40, it indicates that the static friction coefficient is too large and the dynamic friction coefficient is too small, and the fibers are mostly in a static state, generating a larger percentage of neps, reducing the quality of the yarn and its fabric.

[0017] As a preferred embodiment, the wool-like yarn of the present application has a fiber length of 75-105 mm. This is because the ordinary cotton fiber length is 26-38 mm, and when the fiber length of the short fiber Al is 75 mm or more, the part of the fiber around the yarn body surface can form up to 2 or more cycles, which is beneficial to the yarn to obtain the natural wool yarn short fiber softness, and the fabric made therefrom also has an irregular thick and thin shadow appearance similar to the wool-containing fabric; when the fiber length of the short fiber Al is less than 75 mm, the difference between the fiber distribution of each length section in the yarn is weakened, and the irregular thick and thin shadow appearance of the fabric made therefrom also has a weakening trend; when the fiber length of the short fiber Al is greater than 105 mm, it will affect the dispersion of the tail of this part of the fiber, and the neps have a tendency to increase.

[0018] As preferred, the wool-like yarn of the present application has a coefficient of variation (CV % value) of the fiber length of the staple fiber of 10.0 to 30.0 %. The greater the coefficient of variation of the fiber length, the more discrete the distribution of the fiber length. When the CV % value is less than 10.0 %, the distribution of the fiber length is relatively concentrated, the yarn has a tendency to stabilize in the evenness, and the irregular thick and thin shadow appearance formed on the fabric has a tendency to weaken; when the CV % value is greater than 30.0 %, the distribution of the fiber length is relatively discrete, the super short fibers are easily converted into neps as floating fibers, and the yarn quality has a tendency to decrease.

[0019] As preferred, the wool-like yarn of the present application has a number of neps of +200 % mass percentage of 5 to 80 pieces / km. This is because when the number of neps is greater than 80 pieces / km, there is a possibility that the warp eyes, the reed or the needle will be blocked during weaving, and the weaving efficiency has a tendency to decrease. More preferably, the wool-like yarn of the present application has a number of neps of +200 % mass percentage of 5 to 60 pieces / km.

[0020] The wool-like yarn of the present application, wherein the raw material of the staple fiber is not particularly limited, and can be synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, and the like, or regenerated fibers such as viscose fibers, soybean protein fibers, and the like.

[0021] The wool-like yarn of the present application, wherein the fineness of the staple fiber is not particularly limited, and in consideration of selecting a staple fiber having a fineness close to that of natural wool fibers, a better wool-like appearance effect can be obtained, and preferably the fineness of the staple fiber is 1.0 to 5.0 D. More preferably, the fineness of the staple fiber is 1.5 to 3.5 D.

[0022] The wool-like yarn of the present application has a count of preferably 7.0 to 60.0 s. This is because when the yarn count is greater than 60.0 s, the yarn is thin, and the wool-like bulkiness of the fabric made therefrom has a tendency to decrease; when the yarn count is less than 7.0 s, the appearance diameter of the yarn becomes thick, the distribution distance of the staple fiber along the length direction of the yarn body becomes short, the appearance shadow effect of the wool-like yarn is short, and the wool-like appearance has a tendency to decrease.

[0023] The wool-like yarn of the present application can be spun after mixing with a common natural color fiber, or a fiber dyed with a stock solution or a natural color fiber can be selected and then spun after mixing with a multi-color blending scheme. When a fiber combination that can be dyed with the same type of dye is selected, in order to obtain a better wool-like effect (irregular shadow effect), the latter scheme can be preferably used, and this scheme is also applicable to the case of blending fibers having two or more dyeing properties.

[0024] The wool-like yarn of the present application, the manufacturing method thereof is not particularly limited, can be directly drawn and twisted on a spinning frame after short fibers are made into roving, can be obtained after composite processing with filament raw materials at the same time of twisting, can also be obtained by plying twisting of the wool-like yarn with the wool-like yarn or the wool-like yarn with filament raw materials after the wool-like yarn is processed on a spinning frame. The composition and category of the filament raw material is not particularly limited, can be cellulose filament or acetate modified filament, or chemical fiber filament.

[0025] Considering the sufficient carding of single fibers when a plurality of lengths of short fibers are mixed, the wool-like yarn of the present application is preferably processed by cotton spinning process. This is because the carding equipment used in the cotton spinning process is suitable for the carding and smooth transfer of fiber head-tail ends under low cotton amount and thin cotton layer, and meets the requirements of the present application for neps improvement. The wool-like yarn of the present application can be produced on a conventional cotton spinning equipment, or on a cotton spinning equipment after part modification, such as extending the length of the licker-in plate of the cotton carding machine, and / or increasing the number of feed transfer taker-in rollers, and / or adding a trash removal apron, and / or modifying the roller pair arrangement form of the spinning draft stages, etc.

[0026] The fabric made of the wool-like yarn of the present application can be subjected to conventional dyeing processing, raising processing, and various functional finishing processing, such as ultraviolet protection processing, antibacterial processing, insect prevention processing, etc.

[0027] The fabric made of the wool-like yarn of the present application can be a woven fabric or a knitted fabric. As a woven fabric, the weave is not particularly limited, and the twill weave and / or the satin weave with relatively long surface float threads are preferred in view of the wool-like effect. As a knitted fabric, the weave is also not particularly limited, and can be a circular machine knitted fabric, a flat machine knitted fabric, or a warp knitted fabric. The circular knitted fabric is preferred in view of the wool-like effect.

[0028] The parameters and test methods involved in the present application are described as follows.

[0029] (1) Preparation of short fiber sample

[0030] The method meets the statistical requirements of estimating the overall characteristics from the sample characteristics.

[0031] Step 1 (selection of yarn sample): Select a single wool-like yarn with a length greater than 35.0 cm as the yarn sample to be tested. If the wool-like yarn to be tested is composed of short fibers and filaments, the filaments need to be separated in advance, and the short fibers are retained as the yarn sample to be tested.

[0032] Step 2 (preparation of yarn sample): First, fix one end of the yarn sample as the head and the other end as the tail. Slowly untwist the tail end. When the untwisted length of the tail end reaches more than 10 cm, remove the 10 cm yarn from the tail end to the head end, and fix the tail end. Then, release the head end and slowly untwist it. When the untwisted length of the head end reaches more than 10 cm, remove the 10 cm yarn from the head end to the tail end, and leave the middle yarn for use. Finally, fix one end of the middle yarn for use and slowly untwist the other end. Be careful not to break the single fibers during the untwisting process.

[0033] Step 3 (production of yarn sample): Continuously extract 600 short fibers from the above-mentioned middle yarn as a sub-sample and collect them on a velvet board. The color of the velvet board should be in contrast to the color of the sample (e.g., for a white sample, use a black velvet board), and the board surface should be clean. If a single fiber breaks during the sampling process, discard it. Repeat the sampling operation three times, and extract a total of 1800 short fibers. Using tweezers (or clean fingers), align one end of the collected single fiber sub-sample and stretch the other end straight with a small force to form a bundle similar to a brush pen tip. During the arrangement process, prevent fiber breakage, remove entangled fibers, and place the arranged fibers into the bundle.

[0034] Step 4: Hold the straight end of the above bundle with the thumb and index finger, and gently twist the other end into a pen tip shape. Place the tip fibers of the bundle on the bottom line of the black velvet board, press the bundle tip with the thumb of the other hand, and slowly pull out the short fibers from the bundle from long to short. The pulled-out short fibers are arranged on the velvet board from top to bottom and left to right, with one end aligned on the board. The length of the short fibers shows a gradient change with obvious height difference. Keep the arranged short fiber bundle for measurement.

[0035] (2) Measurement of fiber length, fiber length deviation rate, and coefficient of variation (CV% value) of short fibers

[0036] a. Measurement of fiber length of short fibers

[0037] According to the above "(1) Production of short fiber sample", the length of each short fiber in the above "arranged short fiber bundle" is tested in sequence. The specific testing method refers to the content in Appendix B of GB / T 14336-2008 "Chemical Fiber Short Fiber Length Test Method".

[0038] b. Fiber length deviation rate of short fibers

[0039] Refer to GB / T 14336-2008 "Chemical Fiber Short Fiber Length Test Method".

[0040] The length deviation rate is the ratio of the length of a single staple fiber to the average length of the staple fibers in the same length gradient.

[0041] c. Coefficient of variation (CV% value)

[0042]

[0043] wherein lm is the length of the staple fiber (m = 1, 2, … 1800), and the specific values are shown in the above "(2) a. Measurement of staple fiber length", is the average length of the 1800 staple fibers in the subsample, and n refers to the number of all staple fibers, and here n = 1800.

[0044] (3) Weight ratio of staple fibers (wt%)

[0045] According to the above "(1) Preparation of staple fiber sample", the staple fiber tows in each gradient are collected and weighed, and after being placed for more than 12 hours for moisture balance under the standard atmospheric conditions for testing, the staple fiber tows in different gradients are weighed. The precision electronic balance with an accuracy of 0.0001 g is selected.

[0046] The calculation of the weight ratio of the staple fibers (wt%) is based on the measured weight of the staple fibers in each gradient, and the weight% of the "total weight of the staple fibers in each gradient" is calculated.

[0047] (4) Staple fiber fineness

[0048] According to GB / T 14335-2008 "Chemical Fiber Staple Fiber Linear Density Test Method".

[0049] (5) Difference between static friction factor and dynamic friction factor

[0050] According to T-CSTM 00522-2022 "Chemical Fiber Friction Coefficient Test Method".

[0051] (6) Evaluation of neps of yarn

[0052] According to GB / T 3292.1 "Textile Yarn Strands Unevenness Test Method"

[0053] (7) Evaluation of matte and evaluation of pile

[0054] The wool-like yarn is evenly wound or arranged on the surface of a rectangular plate with a size of 380x180x4mm (the surface of the rectangular plate is attached with black matte film or matte sandpaper), and the arrangement density of the wool-like yarn is ensured to be 1.0-1.5mm. The rectangular plate with the arranged wool-like yarn is laid on the desktop, and 10 evaluators (5 males and 5 females) are randomly selected to visually evaluate the wool-like yarn in terms of matte feeling and woolen feeling. The specific evaluation criteria are referred to the following table, and the average value of the scoring results of the 10 people is taken as the evaluation basis. If the scoring result is greater than 14, it is evaluated as excellent (◎); if the scoring result is greater than 7 and less than or equal to 14, it is evaluated as good (△); and if the scoring result is less than 7, it is evaluated as poor (×).

[0055] Matte feel score Plush feel score Excellent 10 Strong 10 Average 4 Average 4 Poor 1 Poor 1

[0056] (8) Evaluation of wool-like fabric

[0057] The 10 evaluators (5 males and 5 females) are randomly selected to evaluate the fabric gloss, wool type feeling and fluffy feeling of the wool-like fabric. The specific evaluation criteria are referred to the following table. The average value of the scoring results of the 10 people is taken as the evaluation basis. If the scoring result is greater than 24, it is evaluated as excellent (◎); if the scoring result is greater than 15 and less than or equal to 24, it is evaluated as good (○); if the scoring result is greater than 9 and less than or equal to 15, it is evaluated as general (△); and if the scoring result is less than 9, it is evaluated as poor (×).

[0058] ① Fabric gloss: visually imitating the heavy diffuse reflection of the wool-containing fabric, mainly soft matte feeling; ② Wool type feeling: visible thick and thin feeling, long and short feeling, and strip shadow effect achieved by light and dark color difference on the appearance;

[0059] ③ Fluffy feeling: taking 4 layers of fabric and feeling the gap feeling, tight and fluffy rebound feeling after pinching with fingers.

[0060] Fabric shine score Woolen feel score Loft feel score Excellent 10 Strong 10 Very fluffy 10 Good 7 Strong 7 Fluffy 7 Average 4 Average 4 Average 4 Poor 1 Poor 1 Poor 1

[0061] Example 1

[0062] First, the spinning of the yarn is carried out on a cotton-type short fiber spinning production line (JWF cotton spinning system of Jingwei Textile Machinery): black original liquid polyester short fibers (circular cross section) with a size of 3.0Dx94mm and white semi-dull polyester short fibers (circular cross section) with a size of 2.0Dx51mm are selected. The black short fibers and the white short fibers are weighed and mixed according to the weight ratio of 40wt% and 60wt% respectively, and then subjected to the processes of opening, cleaning, carding, drawing, and roving. In order to improve the holding force of the roller on the bundle, the straight-line arrangement of the roller pair of the roving frame is modified to V-shaped arrangement, so that the length of the cotton strip in the drafting zone reaches more than 94mm. A 2-hole modified cotton feeding horn is used to produce a roving bundle with a weight of 4.0g / 10m, and two such bundles are fed into a Sirospun spinning machine to spin a 30s The spun yarns are then subjected to weaving preparation: the yarns are wound on a Murata NO.21C winding machine with N cut-off parameter set at +215%, to produce wool-like yarns of the present application.

[0063] The wool-like yarns thus produced are then used as warp and weft yarns to weave a wool-like fabric on a high-speed rapier loom, using 1 / 3 twill weave and a weaving density of 88 ends / inch in the warp direction and 68 ends / inch in the weft direction, to produce a wool-like fabric of the present application.

[0064] Finally, the wool-like fabric thus produced is subjected to pre-treatment (80°C*30 minutes, 2.0 o.w.f% caustic soda) -> intermediate setting (190°C*70 seconds) -> resin processing (ester softener, one dip and one roll, with a pick-up of 75±5%) -> finishing setting (130°C*2 minutes), to produce a wool-like fabric of the present application, the results of the various performance tests being shown in Table 1.

[0065] Example 2

[0066] The specification of the black dope polyester staple fiber is changed to 3.0D*75mm, and the rest is the same as in Example 1, to produce a wool-like yarn of the present application 30 s The wool-like yarn of the present application 30

[0067] Example 3

[0068] The cross-section of the black dope polyester staple fiber is changed to a cross-shaped cross-section, and the rest is the same as in Example 1, to produce a wool-like yarn of the present application 30 s The wool-like yarn of the present application 30

[0069] Example 4

[0070] The specification of the polyester staple fiber is changed to black dope polyester staple fiber of 3.0D*105mm and white semi-dull polyester staple fiber of 3.0D*75mm, and the rest is the same as in Example 1, to produce a wool-like yarn of the present application 30 s The wool-like yarn of the present application 30

[0071] Example 5

[0072] On a Sirofil-modified spinning machine, one roving (the roving produced in Example 1) and one semi-dull polyester DTY filament of 90D / 48F are fed, ensuring that the filament is fed behind the front roller and placed about 3-5mm to the right of the staple fiber, to produce a wool-like yarn of the present application 30 sYarn of / 1 (containing 90D filaments). The rest is the same as Example 1, to obtain wool-like yarn and wool-like fabric made therefrom according to the present application, and the performance test results are shown in Table 1.

[0073] Example 6

[0074] The specifications of the polyester staple fibers are changed to black dope polyester staple fibers of 3.0Dx120mm and white semi-dull polyester staple fibers of 3.0Dx75mm, and the rest is the same as Example 1, to obtain wool-like yarn and wool-like fabric made therefrom according to the present application 30 s / 1 (containing 90D filaments) and the wool-like fabric made therefrom, and the performance test results are shown in Table 1.

[0075] Example 7

[0076] The specifications of the white polyester staple fibers are changed to 3.0Dx75mm, and the weight ratio of the staple fibers is changed: black dope polyester staple fibers / white semi-dull polyester staple fibers is 14wt% / 86wt%, and the rest is the same as Example 1, to obtain wool-like yarn and wool-like fabric made therefrom according to the present application 30 s / 1 and the wool-like fabric made therefrom, and the performance test results are shown in Table 1.

[0077] Example 8

[0078] Additional white semi-dull polyester staple fibers of 2.0Dx38mm are added, and the weight ratio of the staple fibers is changed: 94mm black dope polyester staple fibers / 51mm white semi-dull polyester staple fibers / 38mm white semi-dull polyester staple fibers is 20wt% / 60wt% / 20wt%, and the rest is the same as Example 1, to obtain wool-like yarn and wool-like fabric made therefrom according to the present application 30 s / 1 and the wool-like fabric made therefrom, and the performance test results are shown in Table 1.

[0079] Comparative Example 1

[0080] On a Sirofil modified spinning machine, one roving (the roving made in Example 8) and one semi-dull polyester DTY filament of 120D / 72F are fed. The rest is the same as Example 1, to obtain a 30 s / 1 (containing 120D filaments) and the fabric made therefrom, and the performance test results are shown in Table 1.

[0081] Comparative Example 2

[0082] The weight ratio of the black and white polyester staple fibers is changed: black dope polyester staple fibers / white semi-dull polyester staple fibers is 60wt% / 40wt%, and the rest is the same as Example 1, to obtain a 30 s / 1 and the fabric made therefrom, and the performance test results are shown in Table 1.

[0083] Comparative Example 3

[0084] The specification of the polyester staple fiber is changed to black dope polyester staple fiber of 3.0D x 75mm and white semi-dull polyester staple fiber of 3.0D x 75mm, and the weight ratio of the black staple fiber and the white staple fiber is 50wt% / 50wt% respectively. The rest is the same as example 1, and a 30 s The wool-like yarn of example 1 and the fabric made therefrom, and the performance test results are shown in table 1.

[0085] Comparative example 4

[0086] The specification of the polyester staple fiber is changed to black dope polyester staple fiber of 3.0D x 105mm and white semi-dull polyester staple fiber of 3.0D x 75mm, and the weight ratio of the black staple fiber and the white staple fiber is changed to 8wt% / 92wt%, and the rest is the same as example 1, and a 30 s The wool-like yarn of example 1 and the fabric made therefrom, and the performance test results are shown in table 1.

[0087]

Claims

1. A wool-like yarn, characterized by: The yarn contains 50% by weight or more of short fibers having two or more fiber lengths, wherein the longest fiber A1 accounts for 10 to 50% by weight of the short fibers, and the difference between the static friction coefficient and the dynamic friction coefficient of the short fibers is 0.15 to 0.

40.

2. The wool-like yarn according to claim 1, characterized by: The longest fiber A1 has a fiber length of 75 to 105 mm.

3. Yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The coefficient of variation of the fiber length of the short fibers is 10.0 to 30.0%.

4. A wool-like yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that: The number of neps of the wool-like yarn at +200% mass percentage is 5 to 80 per km.

5. A fabric made of the wool-like yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

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