A composition having an improved skin color and antioxidant effect, and a method of preparing and using the same

Abstract

The present application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect provided by the present application is composed of caesalpinia eriostachys bark extract, mulberry root bark extract, raspberry fruit extract, 4-butyl resorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate. In the preparation method of the caesalpinia eriostachys bark extract, the caesalpinia eriostachys bark is extracted by adopting a low-eutectic emulsion standing extraction combined with microjet secondary extraction mode, so that the caesalpinia eriostachys bark extract obtained has good stability of active substances and high extraction efficiency, and the extraction method has low production cost, simple operation and conforms to the principle of green chemistry. The composition provided by the present application has excellent improved skin color and antioxidant effect and is mild and non-irritating, the preparation method is simple and easy to operate, and is conducive to industrialized actual large-scale production and application.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect, and a preparation method and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] With the growth of age, the functions of the body begin to decline, and the most intuitive phenomenon is that the skin appears dark and aging. Scientific research shows that the main reasons for these phenomena are three points: first, too much exposure to ultraviolet light or even ionizing radiation, and a large number of free radicals accumulated in the body, while the clearance speed is relatively slow; second, due to irregular work and rest, excessive pressure and low immunity, etc., causing poor circulation and insufficient blood in the body; third, with the increase of age, the metabolism decreases, and a large amount of collagen is lost.

[0003] In order to solve the above skin problems, the existing skin care products mainly use chemical ingredients such as vitamin C, salicylic acid, and vitamin A alcohol, which have a quick effect on improving skin color and antioxidant effect, but are prone to allergic risks; some skin care products use plant extracts as active ingredients, which are natural and mild, but the effect of improving skin color and antioxidant is not obvious. In addition, most of the existing products on the market have the disadvantages of single function, single active ingredient or low bioavailability of active ingredient, which leads to an unobvious improvement effect.

[0004] In summary, in order to better realize product upgrading, developing a composition with quick and efficient improvement of skin color and antioxidant effect and mildness without irritation is one of the common goals pursued in the current cosmetic field. SUMMARY

[0005] In view of the above defects or improvement needs of the prior art, the present application provides a composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect, and a preparation method and application thereof, which solves the problems of poor improvement of skin color, antioxidant and anti-aging effect and strong irritation of the existing products.

[0006] In order to achieve the above purpose, the present application adopts the following technical scheme:

[0007] In a first aspect, the present application provides a composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect, comprising the following components: sapotaceae tree bark extract, mulberry root bark extract, raspberry fruit extract, 4-butyl resorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate; the weight ratio of the sapotaceae tree bark extract, the mulberry root bark extract, the raspberry fruit extract, the 4-butyl resorcinol and the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate is (15-18):(12-15):(7-10):(6-9):(8-10);

[0008] The preparation method of the sapotaceae tree bark extract comprises the following steps:

[0009] A1, hydrogen bond acceptor, hydrogen bond donor and surfactant are mixed and homogenized, deionized water is added and stirred to obtain a eutectic emulsion;

[0010] A2, the cut bark of caesalpinia sappan is added to the eutectic emulsion, and the homogenate is obtained by liquid nitrogen grinding. After standing and extraction, secondary extraction is carried out by microjet to obtain a crude extract;

[0011] A3, the crude extract is centrifuged, filtered, and the supernatant is concentrated to 30% of the original volume to obtain the caesalpinia sappan bark extract.

[0012] Caesalpinia sappan is also known as rosewood, leguminous butterfly subfamily, red sandalwood. Its roots, barks, stems and leaves can be used as medicine. The main component of caesalpinia sappan bark extract is flavonoids, which has antibacterial, antitumor, antidepressant and other pharmacological activities, and has development and research value.

[0013] Mulberry root bark is a traditional Chinese medicinal material. The mulberry root bark extract prepared by the ethanol ultrasonic assisted extraction method mainly contains isoprenyl flavones, benzofuran, polyhydroxy alkaloids and stilbene, etc. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, hypoglycemic, hypotensive and antiviral activities.

[0014] Raspberry is the fruit of Rubus corchorifolius of Rosaceae. It is sweet and sour, and warm. The main components of raspberry include flavones and glycosides, terpenes, alkaloids, volatile compounds, coumarins, sterols, phenolic acids, polysaccharides, aromatic compounds, etc. Among them, kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside and ellagic acid are the typical components. The raspberry fruit extract prepared by the ethanol secondary reflux extraction method has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-aging and whitening effects.

[0015] 4-Butylresorcinol is a component commonly used for skin whitening and treatment of abnormal pigmentation. It reduces the production of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and is widely used in products to improve uneven skin tone, age spots and freckles.

[0016] Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C, which has the effects of antioxidant, skin whitening and collagen synthesis promotion. It has attracted wide attention due to its high stability and strong transdermal absorption capacity.

[0017] The eutectic emulsion is a microemulsion system based on a fat-soluble eutectic solvent (DES) for efficient extraction and delivery of multiple active ingredients in the bark of Bursera simaruba; by screening specific combinations of hydrogen bond donors and hydrogen bond acceptors, a DES with good fat solubility is prepared as a non-polar phase, which is self-assembled with a surfactant and deionized water to form a thermodynamically stable microemulsion; the eutectic emulsion has high dispersibility of the microemulsion system and strong solubility of the DES, and can simultaneously extract hydrophilic and hydrophobic active ingredients in the bark of Bursera simaruba, and realize in-situ microencapsulation during the extraction process, significantly improving the stability and bioavailability of the active substances, and the extraction steps are easy to operate and meet the principles of green chemistry.

[0018] Microfluidization generates ultrahigh-speed shearing, cavitation, impingement and turbulent effects in micron-scale channels by driving the feed liquid at high pressure, thereby achieving efficient cell wall disruption, sufficient release of active ingredients and uniformization of particle size.

[0019] Preferably, the hydrogen bond acceptor in step A1 is coconut oil acid, and the hydrogen bond donor is babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil.

[0020] Preferably, the molar ratio of the coconut oil acid, babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil is 1:2-3:1-2; and the surfactant is sucrose polystearate.

[0021] Preferably, the weight ratio of the Bursera simaruba bark extract, the mulberry root bark extract, the raspberry fruit extract, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is 17:14:9:7:9.

[0022] Preferably, the molar ratio of the coconut oil acid, babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil is 1:2.5:1.5.

[0023] Preferably, the weight percentage of the hydrogen bond acceptor and the hydrogen bond donor in the eutectic emulsion of step A1 is 8%-17%, the weight percentage of the surfactant is 25%-45%, and the deionized water is the balance.

[0024] Preferably, the feed liquid ratio of the Bursera simaruba bark and the eutectic emulsion in step A2 is 1g:15-25mL.

[0025] Preferably, the standing extraction time in step A2 is 20-40min.

[0026] Preferably, the pressure of the microfluidization treatment in step A2 is 80-120MPa, the temperature of the microfluidization treatment is 30-40℃, the number of cycles of the microfluidization treatment is 2-4 times, and the time of each cycle is 60-120s.

[0027] Preferably, the mulberry root bark extract is an ethanol extract of mulberry root bark, and the raspberry fruit extract is an ethanol extract of raspberry fruit.

[0028] In a second aspect, the present application provides a preparation method of the composition of the first aspect, the preparation method comprising the following steps: weighing each component according to the formula amount, mixing and homogenizing to obtain the composition.

[0029] In a third aspect, the present application provides the use of the composition of the first aspect or the composition prepared by the preparation method of the second aspect in the preparation of a skin care product with improved skin color and antioxidant effect.

[0030] Preferably, the skin care product is serum, jelly, emulsion, mask or cream.

[0031] The beneficial effects of the present application are as follows:

[0032] 1. The present application uses the combination of tara tree bark extract, mulberry root bark extract, raspberry fruit extract, 4-butyl resorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, so that the obtained composition has excellent skin color improvement and antioxidant effect, and is mild and non-irritating.

[0033] 2. The present application uses the method of low eutectic emulsion standing extraction combined with microjet secondary extraction to extract tara tree bark, and the obtained tara tree bark extract has good stability of active substances and high extraction efficiency, and the extraction method has low production cost, simple operation and conforms to the principles of green chemistry.

[0034] 3. The present application provides a preparation method of the composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect, which is simple and easy to operate, and is conducive to industrialized actual large-scale production and application.

[0035] 4. The composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect provided by the present application is applied to the preparation of a skin care product with improved skin color and antioxidant effect, which can meet market demand and has strong market application value. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0036] In order to further illustrate the technical means and effects adopted by the present application to achieve the predetermined object, the following describes the specific embodiments, structures, features and effects of the present application in detail.

[0037] The experimental methods not specified in the following compositions are usually carried out under conventional conditions or according to the conditions recommended by the manufacturers. The materials, reagents, etc. used, if not specifically stated, can be obtained from commercial channels.

[0038] Some raw materials and sources are as follows:

[0039] Tara tree bark is purchased from Shanghai Xingye Biotechnology Co., Ltd.;

[0040] Mulberry root bark powder is purchased from Shanghai Xingye Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0041] Raspberry fruit powder was purchased from Shanghai Xingye Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0042] 4-Butylresorcinol was purchased from Shanghai Xingye Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0043] Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate was purchased from Shanghai Xingye Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0044] Mulberry root-bark extract

[0045] The preparation method thereof comprises the following steps:

[0046] The dried mulberry root-bark powder was weighed, 70% ethanol solution was added according to the solid-liquid ratio of 1g:40mL, ultrasonic-assisted extraction was carried out under the condition of 500W for 45min, centrifugation was carried out under the condition of 8000r / min for 8min, and then the supernatant was taken, so that the mulberry root-bark extract was obtained.

[0047] Raspberry fruit extract

[0048] The preparation method thereof comprises the following steps:

[0049] The dried raspberry fruit powder was weighed, 75% ethanol solution was added according to the solid-liquid ratio of 1g:20mL, reflux extraction was carried out for 1h, vacuum filtration was carried out under the condition of 0.7MPa, 75% ethanol solution was added to the filter residue according to the solid-liquid ratio of 1g:30mL for the second time of reflux extraction, vacuum filtration was carried out under the condition of 0.7MPa, and then the two filtrates were combined, concentrated under reduced pressure at 60℃ until there was no alcohol smell, so that the raspberry fruit extract was obtained.

[0050] Bubinga bark extract

[0051] The preparation method thereof comprises the following steps:

[0052] A1, the hydrogen bond acceptor, the hydrogen bond donor and the surfactant were mixed and homogenized, deionized water was added and stirred uniformly, and a eutectic emulsion was obtained;

[0053] A2, the cut bubinga bark was added to the eutectic emulsion, grinded into homogenate with liquid nitrogen, and then extracted after standing, and the microjet was used for secondary extraction, so that a crude extract was obtained;

[0054] A3, the crude extract was subjected to centrifugation, filtration, and concentration of the supernatant to 30% of the original volume, so that the bubinga bark extract was obtained;

[0055] In the step A1, the hydrogen bond acceptor was coconut oil, the hydrogen bond donor was babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil, and the molar ratio of the coconut oil, the babassu seed oil and the palm kernel oil was 1:2.5:1.5; the surfactant was sucrose polystearate;

[0056] The weight percentage of hydrogen bond acceptor and hydrogen bond donor in the eutectic emulsion of step A1 is 13%, the weight percentage of surfactant is 35%, and the balance is deionized water;

[0057] The solid-liquid ratio of Baphia nitida bark and eutectic emulsion in step A2 is 1g:20mL;

[0058] The standing extraction time in step A2 is 30min;

[0059] The pressure of microjet treatment in step A2 is 100MPa, the temperature of microjet treatment is 35℃, the cycle number of microjet treatment is 3 times, and the time of each cycle is 90s.

[0060] Baphia nitida bark extract ②

[0061] The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0062] A1, hydrogen bond acceptor, hydrogen bond donor and surfactant are mixed and homogenized, deionized water is added and stirred uniformly to obtain a eutectic emulsion;

[0063] A2, after the Baphia nitida bark is cut and shredded, it is added to the eutectic emulsion, grinded to homogenate with liquid nitrogen, and after standing extraction, secondary extraction is carried out using microjet to obtain a crude extract;

[0064] A3, the crude extract is centrifuged, filtered, and the supernatant is concentrated to 30% of the original volume to obtain the Baphia nitida bark extract;

[0065] The hydrogen bond acceptor in step A1 is coconut oil acid, the hydrogen bond donor is babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil; the molar ratio of the coconut oil acid, babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil is 1:2:1; and the surfactant is sucrose polysorbate;

[0066] The weight percentage of hydrogen bond acceptor and hydrogen bond donor in the eutectic emulsion of step A1 is 8%, the weight percentage of surfactant is 25%, and the balance is deionized water;

[0067] The solid-liquid ratio of Baphia nitida bark and eutectic emulsion in step A2 is 1g:25mL;

[0068] The standing extraction time in step A2 is 40min;

[0069] The pressure of microjet treatment in step A2 is 80MPa, the temperature of microjet treatment is 40℃, the cycle number of microjet treatment is 4 times, and the time of each cycle is 60s.

[0070] Baphia nitida bark extract ③

[0071] The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0072] A1, hydrogen bond acceptor, hydrogen bond donor and surfactant are mixed and homogenized, deionized water is added and stirred uniformly to obtain a eutectic emulsion;

[0073] A2, the cut bark of Terminalia arjuna is added to the eutectic emulsion, and homogenized by liquid nitrogen grinding. After standing extraction, secondary extraction is carried out by microjet to obtain a crude extract;

[0074] A3, the crude extract is centrifuged, filtered, and the supernatant is concentrated to 30% of the original volume to obtain the Terminalia arjuna bark extract;

[0075] In step A1, the hydrogen bond acceptor is coconut oil acid, the hydrogen bond donor is babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil; the molar ratio of coconut oil acid, babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil is 1:3:2; the surfactant is sucrose polysorbate;

[0076] In the eutectic emulsion of step A1, the weight percentage of hydrogen bond acceptor and hydrogen bond donor is 17%, and the weight percentage of surfactant is 45%, with deionized water making up the balance;

[0077] In step A2, the solid-liquid ratio of Terminalia arjuna bark and eutectic emulsion is 1g:15mL;

[0078] In step A2, the standing extraction time is 20 minutes;

[0079] In step A2, the microjet treatment pressure is 120MPa, the microjet treatment temperature is 30℃, the microjet treatment cycle number is 2, and the cycle time is 120s each time.

[0080] Terminalia arjuna bark extract ④

[0081] Terminalia arjuna bark extract ④ differs from Terminalia arjuna bark extract ① only in that the molar ratio of coconut oil acid, babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil in the preparation of Terminalia arjuna bark extract ④ is 1:1.5:1, and the other conditions are consistent with those of Terminalia arjuna bark extract ①.

[0082] Terminalia arjuna bark extract ⑤

[0083] Terminalia arjuna bark extract ⑤ differs from Terminalia arjuna bark extract ① only in that the molar ratio of coconut oil acid, babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil in the preparation of Terminalia arjuna bark extract ⑤ is 1:4:2, and the other conditions are consistent with those of Terminalia arjuna bark extract ①.

[0084] Terminalia arjuna bark extract ⑥

[0085] The difference between the extract of palm tree bark 6 and the extract of palm tree bark 1 is that, in the preparation of the extract of palm tree bark 6, step A2 does not use microjet for secondary extraction and the standing extraction time is extended to 60 min, and other conditions are consistent with the extract of palm tree bark 1.

[0086] The extract of palm tree bark 6

[0087] The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0088] A1, taking palm tree bark, crushing, passing through a 40-mesh sieve to obtain palm tree bark powder;

[0089] A2, respectively taking 0.4 g of cellulase and 0.8 g of pectinase, adding an ethanol solution with a mass fraction of 60% to make the concentration of cellulase and pectinase in the ethanol solution be 4 mg / mL, to obtain an ethanol solution containing mixed enzymes;

[0090] A3, taking 5 g of palm tree bark powder, adding 20 mL of the ethanol solution containing mixed enzymes and 30 mL of an ethanol solution with a mass fraction of 60% (1:10 liquid-solid ratio), adjusting pH to 4, and ultrasonic-assisted extraction at 35 DEG C for 28 min to obtain the extract of palm tree bark 6.

[0091] The component composition (weight fraction) of the composition with improved skin color and antioxidant effect in examples 1-3 in the application is shown in the following table 1, and each component is weighed according to the formula amount, mixed and homogenized to obtain each composition.

[0092] Table 1 Component and weight fraction of the composition of examples 1-3

[0093]

[0094]

[0095] Comparative example 1

[0096] Compared with example 1, the difference is that no extract of palm tree bark is added in comparative example 1, and the missing amount is supplemented by mulberry bark extract, raspberry fruit extract, 4-butyl resorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate at a weight ratio of 14:9:7:9, and other conditions and preparation methods are consistent with example 1.

[0097] Comparative example 2

[0098] Compared with example 1, the difference is that no mulberry bark extract is added in comparative example 2, and the missing amount is supplemented by palm tree bark extract, raspberry fruit extract, 4-butyl resorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate at a weight ratio of 17:9:7:9, and other conditions and preparation methods are consistent with example 1.

[0099] Comparative Example 3

[0100] Comparative Example 3 is the same as Example 1 except that no raspberry fruit extract is added, and the missing amount is made up with a weight ratio of 17:14:7:9 of the extract of sapota bark, the extract of mulberry root-bark, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, and other conditions and preparation methods are the same as those of Example 1.

[0101] Comparative Example 4

[0102] Comparative Example 4 is the same as Example 1 except that no 4-butylresorcinol is added, and the missing amount is made up with a weight ratio of 17:14:9:9 of the extract of sapota bark, the extract of mulberry root-bark, raspberry fruit extract and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, and other conditions and preparation methods are the same as those of Example 1.

[0103] Comparative Example 5

[0104] Comparative Example 5 is the same as Example 1 except that no ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate is added, and the missing amount is made up with a weight ratio of 17:14:9:7 of the extract of sapota bark, the extract of mulberry root-bark, raspberry fruit extract and 4-butylresorcinol, and other conditions and preparation methods are the same as those of Example 1.

[0105] Comparative Example 6

[0106] Comparative Example 6 is the same as Example 1 except that the weight ratio of the extract of sapota bark, the extract of mulberry root-bark, raspberry fruit extract, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate is 14:16:6:10:7, and other conditions and preparation methods are the same as those of Example 1.

[0107] Comparative Example 7

[0108] Comparative Example 7 is the same as Example 1 except that the extract of sapota bark (IV) is used instead of the extract of sapota bark (I), and other conditions and preparation methods are the same as those of Example 1.

[0109] Comparative Example 8

[0110] Comparative Example 8 is the same as Example 1 except that the extract of sapota bark (V) is used instead of the extract of sapota bark (I), and other conditions and preparation methods are the same as those of Example 1.

[0111] Comparative Example 9

[0112] Comparative Example 9 is the same as Example 1 except that the extract of sapota bark (VI) is used instead of the extract of sapota bark (I), and other conditions and preparation methods are the same as those of Example 1.

[0113] Comparative Example 10

[0114] The difference compared with Example 1 is that the extract of Terminalia arjuna bark ⑦ is used instead of the extract of Terminalia arjuna bark ① in Comparative Example 10, and other conditions and preparation methods are consistent with those of Example 1.

[0115] Effect Test Example 1 Tyrosinase Activity Inhibition Test

[0116] In the process of melanin production, tyrosinase, as the key rate-limiting enzyme, catalyzes the hydroxylation of L-tyrosine to generate dopa, and further oxidizes it to dopaquinone. Dopaquinone spontaneously cyclizes and gradually polymerizes to form melanin through non-enzymatic reactions. The degree of inhibition of the test compound on the catalytic activity of tyrosinase is analyzed by detecting the absorbance change of the reaction system at 475 nm wavelength corresponding to the generation rate of dopaquinone.

[0117] This test example refers to “T / GDCA006-2021 Cosmetic Raw Material Tyrosinase Activity Inhibition Test Method (In Vitro Method)”, detects the inhibition rate of the compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-10 on tyrosinase activity, and thus evaluates the inhibition effect of the compositions on tyrosinase activity.

[0118] The specific test operation is as follows:

[0119] The test substances (compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-10) are respectively diluted with PBS buffer to a sample solution with a concentration of 0.80 mg / mL; four groups of holes are set in a 96-well enzyme plate, 40 μL of PBS buffer is added to the solvent background hole (T a ), 40 μL of L-tyrosine solution and 40 μL of PBS buffer are added to the solvent reaction hole (T b ), 40 μL of sample solution is added to the sample background hole (T c ), and 40 μL of L-tyrosine solution and 40 μL of sample solution are added to the sample reaction hole (T d ), and three duplicate holes are made for each group; each hole is thoroughly mixed, incubated at 37°C for 10 min, and then 20 μL of tyrosinase solution is added to each hole in turn, mixed at 37°C for 5 min, and then placed in an enzyme marker, and the absorbance value is measured at 475 nm wavelength;

[0120] The tyrosinase activity inhibition rate is calculated according to the following formula:

[0121]

[0122] In the formula: A a is the average absorbance of the solvent background hole; A b is the average absorbance of the solvent reaction hole; A c is the absorbance of the sample background hole; and A d is the absorbance of the sample reaction hole.

[0123] The specific results are shown in Table 2.

[0124] Table 2 Tyrosinase inhibition rate data

[0125]

[0126]

[0127] Example 2 Antioxidant effect test

[0128] Free radicals have strong oxidizing properties, can attack biological macromolecules such as lipids, proteins, DNA, etc., cause oxidative damage, lead to cell dysfunction and tissue lesions, and show skin aging, wrinkles, etc. Therefore, the DPPH free radical scavenging capacity is an important indicator for evaluating the anti-aging activity, and by determining the DPPH free radical scavenging rate of the compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-10, the anti-aging efficacy is evaluated.

[0129] The specific test method is as follows:

[0130] The test substance (compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-10) was diluted with anhydrous ethanol to a concentration of 5 mg / mL of the test solution; a DPPH free radical solution with a concentration of 0.2 mmol / L was prepared with anhydrous ethanol; 2 mL of the test solution was taken in a test tube for each test sample group, and 2 mL of the aforementioned prepared DPPH free radical solution was added; 2 mL of anhydrous ethanol was taken in a test tube for the control group, and 2 mL of the aforementioned prepared DPPH free radical solution was added; 2 mL of the test solution was taken in a test tube for the blank group, and 2 mL of anhydrous ethanol was added; each group was mixed well, and after reaction at room temperature for 30 min in the dark, the absorbance value was measured at 517 nm, and the scavenging rate was calculated according to the following formula:

[0131]

[0132] In the formula: A0 is the absorbance value of the blank group; A1 is the absorbance value of the control group; A x is the absorbance value of the test substance group; each group was determined in triplicate, and the data was presented as the average value;

[0133] The test results are shown in Table 3.

[0134] Table 3 Antioxidant test results

[0135]

[0136] Compared with Example 1, Comparative Examples 1-5 do not add one of the extracts of Buxus harlandii, Morus alba, Rubus chingii, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate respectively, Comparative Example 6 is out of the range of the weight ratio of the extracts of Buxus harlandii, Morus alba, Rubus chingii, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, and the preparation process of the extracts in Comparative Examples 7-10 is different from that in Example 1; wherein the eutectic emulsion in Comparative Examples 7-8 uses different molar ratios of hydrogen bond acceptor and hydrogen bond donor respectively; Comparative Example 9 does not use microfluidization for secondary extraction; and Comparative Example 10 uses the traditional preparation method of the extract of Buxus harlandii, i.e., the method of enzymolysis combined with ultrasonic-assisted ethanol extraction.

[0137] As can be seen from the data of tyrosinase inhibition rate and DPPH clearance rate of Example 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-5 in Tables 2-3, the compositions of Example 1-3, which are prepared by using the extracts of Buxus harlandii, Morus alba, Rubus chingii, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, have high tyrosinase inhibition rate and DPPH clearance rate, which indicates that the five components have synergistic effect, thereby improving the effects of improving skin color and antioxidant anti-aging.

[0138] As can be seen from the data of Example 1-3 and Comparative Example 6 in Tables 2-3, when the weight ratio of the extracts of Buxus harlandii, Morus alba, Rubus chingii, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate is (15-18):(12-15):(7-10):(6-9):(8-10), the composition has good effects of improving skin color and antioxidant, and when the weight ratio is 17:14:9:7:9, the effects are best.

[0139] As can be seen from the data of tyrosinase inhibition rate and DPPH clearance rate of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 7-10 in Tables 2-3, the preparation process of the extract of Buxus harlandii also significantly affects the extraction efficiency and effect of the extract of Buxus harlandii, and the preparation process in the application is the best way found by the inventors through many experiments, which can effectively improve the extraction efficiency and stability of active ingredients, thereby affecting the tyrosinase inhibition rate and DPPH clearance rate of the composition, i.e., affecting the effects of improving skin color and antioxidant anti-aging of the composition.

[0140] In summary, the application provides a preparation method of the caesalpinia minssina bark extract, i.e. the caesalpinia minssina bark is extracted by adopting the low eutectic emulsion standing extraction combined with the microjet secondary extraction, the active substance in the obtained caesalpinia minssina bark extract has good stability and high extraction efficiency, and the method has low production cost, simple operation and conforms to the green chemistry principle; the composition with the skin color improvement and antioxidant effect provided by the application is composed of the caesalpinia minssina bark extract, the mulberry root bark extract, the raspberry fruit extract, 4-butyl resorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, has excellent skin color improvement and antioxidant effect, is mild and non-irritating, meets the market demand and has strong market application value.

[0141] Cytotoxicity test

[0142] Test substance: the composition with the skin color improvement and antioxidant effect prepared in Examples 1-3;

[0143] The test specifically includes the following steps:

[0144] A human immortalized epidermal cell line (HaCaT) in a stable growth state was taken, the cell concentration was adjusted to 2.0x10 5 cells / mL, 100 μL per well was inoculated into a 96-well cell culture plate, the 96-well cell culture plate was placed in a carbon dioxide incubator, and the cells were cultured at 37℃±1℃ and a CO2 concentration of 5.0%±1% until the cell fusion reached more than 90%; the test substance was diluted with PBS to a concentration of 12.5 mg / L for standby, a blank control group (using PBS instead of the test substance) and a test substance group were set up, 100 μL per well, 6 replicate wells were set up for each group, and the data was presented as an average value; the time was counted from the time when the test substance (test substance group) and PBS (blank control group) were added, the sample addition time interval was kept consistent every two columns, and the intervention time of each group on the cells was ensured to be 5 min; after 5 min of intervention, the test substance was sequentially sucked off, and PBS was added to each well to wash the test substance, and the washing was performed twice; 100 μL of DMEM medium and 10 μL of CCK-8 solution were added to each well, and the plate was placed in the incubator for 2 h; the absorbance (OD) value was measured at a wavelength of 450 nm, and the cell survival rate was calculated according to the following formula:

[0145]

[0146] The test results are shown in Table 4;

[0147] Table 4 Cell survival rate data

[0148]

[0149] The cell survival rates of Examples 1-3 are all higher than 95%, indicating that the compositions with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation provided by the present application are all non-toxic to cells, have high safety and are mild and non-irritating.

[0150] Application Example: An essence with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation

[0151] The compositions of Examples 1-3 are added into essences respectively to obtain the essences of Application Examples 1-3.

[0152] The essence with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation comprises the following components in mass percentage: the composition with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation 3%, polyacryloyldimethyltaurinate 0.7%, xanthan gum 0.1%, cetyl stearyl alcohol 2.5%, carbomer 0.2%, trehalose 0.8%, propylene glycol 2.6%, squalane 1.0%, cyclononamethyl siloxane 2.0%, vitamin C 0.4%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, essence 0.1%, and deionized water in remainder.

[0153] The preparation method of the essence with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation specifically comprises the following steps:

[0154] S1, polyacryloyldimethyltaurinate, xanthan gum, trehalose, propylene glycol, squalane and 1 / 2 amount of deionized water are mixed and heated to 80℃, and then homogenized at a speed of 1000 rpm to obtain phase A;

[0155] S2, cetyl stearyl alcohol, carbomer and cyclononamethyl siloxane are mixed and heated to 80℃, and then homogenized at a speed of 1000 rpm to obtain phase B;

[0156] S3, phase A and phase B are mixed and homogenized at a speed of 1000 rpm to obtain a mixed solution;

[0157] S4, the mixed solution is cooled to 35℃, and then vitamin C, phenoxyethanol, essence and deionized water are added and homogenized at a speed of 1000 rpm, and then the composition with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation is added, stirred uniformly, discharged, and the essence with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation is obtained.

[0158] Blank Application Example: Compared with Application Examples 1-3, the difference is that the composition with the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation is not added in the essence of the blank application example, and an equal amount of deionized water is used instead of the composition, and the preparation method is the same as that of Application Examples 1-3.

[0159] Effect Test Example 4: Human trial evaluation test

[0160] This test example evaluates the effects of improving skin color and antioxidation and anti-aging of the essences in Application Examples 1-3 and the blank application example.

[0161] Select 24 subjects (healthy, normal skin, no cosmetic allergy history, age 35-45 years old), the subjects were randomly divided into 4 groups, 6 people in each group, the volunteers used 1.5g of the essence on the face after cleansing and moisturizing in the morning and evening, and then absorbed it by massage, and used it on the whole face once a day in the morning and evening, and returned to visit on the 0th and 28th day; the volunteers did not apply any product after washing their faces with water in the test area on the day of the visit, and sat in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 21±1℃ and a humidity of 50±10% for 20 minutes; the improvement of facial aging indicators was quantified and photographed using instruments, including Cutometer 2mm MPA 580 to determine the skin plasticity elasticity value (R2), and the improvement before and after use was significantly different, to determine whether the sample has an elasticity effect; Skin-Colorimeter CL400 and Visia 7 (IPP) to determine the skin brightness, and the improvement before and after use was significantly different, to determine whether the sample has an improvement effect on skin brightness;

[0162]

[0163] In the formula: X 使用前 is the data of each indicator before use (0th day) of each group; X 使用后 is the data of each indicator after use (28th day) of each group;

[0164] Wherein, the larger the brightness value, the more the color is biased towards white, and the smaller the brightness value, the more the color is biased towards black; the skin plasticity elasticity value R2 is used to represent the size of the skin's ability to recover after being stretched in the test, the larger R2 is, the younger the skin is and the better the elasticity is; on the contrary, the smaller R2 is, the older the skin is and the worse the elasticity is;

[0165] The results are averaged, as shown in Table 5, the skin plasticity elasticity value and skin brightness of application examples 1-3 are significantly improved compared with the blank application example, which shows that the essence prepared from the composition provided by the technical scheme of the application can significantly improve the elasticity and color of facial skin, and has excellent effects of improving skin color and antioxidant and anti-aging.

[0166] Table 5 Human trial evaluation test data

[0167]

[0168]

[0169] The above is only the preferred composition of the present application, and does not limit the present application in any form. Although the present application has been disclosed as the preferred composition above, it is not intended to limit the present application. Any person skilled in the art can make some changes or modifications to the equivalent composition with the disclosed technical content above without departing from the technical solution of the present application. Any modification, equivalent change and modification of the above composition according to the technical essence of the present application without departing from the technical solution of the present application still belong to the scope of the technical solution of the present application.

Claims

1. A composition having an improved skin color and antioxidant effect, characterized in that, The composition comprises the following components: sapota bark extract, mulberry bark extract, raspberry fruit extract, 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate; the weight ratio of the sapota bark extract, the mulberry bark extract, the raspberry fruit extract, the 4-butylresorcinol and the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate is (15-18):(12-15):(7-10):(6-9):(8-10); The preparation method of the sapota bark extract comprises the following steps: A1, mixing the hydrogen bond acceptor, the hydrogen bond donor and the surfactant, homogenizing, adding deionized water and stirring uniformly to obtain a low eutectic emulsion; A2, taking the sapota bark, adding to the low eutectic emulsion, grinding to homogenate in liquid nitrogen, standing for extraction, and using microjet for secondary extraction to obtain a crude extract; A3, the crude extract is subjected to centrifugation, filtration, and concentration of the supernatant to 30% of the original volume to obtain the sapota bark extract; In the step A1, the hydrogen bond acceptor is coconut oil acid, the hydrogen bond donor is babassu seed oil and palm kernel oil; the molar ratio of the coconut oil acid, the babassu seed oil and the palm kernel oil is 1:2-3:1-2; and the surfactant is sucrose polysorbate.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein The weight ratio of the sapota bark extract, the mulberry bark extract, the raspberry fruit extract, the 4-butylresorcinol and the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate is 17:14:9:7:

9.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein The molar ratio of the coconut oil acid, the babassu seed oil and the palm kernel oil is 1:2.5:1.

5.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein In the low eutectic emulsion of the step A1, the weight percentage of the hydrogen bond acceptor and the hydrogen bond donor is 8%-17%, and the weight percentage of the surfactant is 25%-45%, with the deionized water being the balance.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein In the step A2, the solid-liquid ratio of the sapota bark and the low eutectic emulsion is 1g:15-25mL.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein In the step A2, the standing extraction time is 20-40min.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein In the step A2, the microjet treatment pressure is 80-120MPa, the microjet treatment temperature is 30-40℃, the microjet treatment cycle number is 2-4 times, and the time of each cycle is 60-120s.

8. A process for the preparation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that, The preparation method comprises the following steps: weighing each component according to the formula amount, mixing and homogenizing to obtain the composition.

9. Use of the composition of any one of claims 1-7 or the composition prepared by the preparation method of claim 8 in the preparation of a skin care product with improved skin color and antioxidant effect.

10. The use of a composition according to claim 9, characterized in that The skin care product is an essence, a jelly, a lotion, a mask or a cream.

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