Cotton-feeling freely-cut elastic fabric with breathable function and weaving method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile, and relates to a cotton-feeling randomly-cut elastic fabric with a breathable function and a weaving method and application thereof. The cotton-feeling elastic fabric capable of being randomly cut is formed by weaving a first guide bar GB1, a second guide bar GB2 and a third guide bar GB3; the first guide bar GB1 and the second guide bar GB2 adopt an empty threading mode, and are woven in a warp satin structure to form a front surface of the fabric; and the third guide bar GB3 adopts a full-threading threading mode, and a fabric reverse side is formed by weaving in a warp satin structure. The fabric provided by the invention adopts a special woven structure, is fine and smooth in hand feeling, has a cotton feeling effect, also has good ventilation, perspiration and quick-drying functions, is good in resilience after being stretched in the warp direction, does not cause edge curling and edge scattering, does not cause overlocking in the subsequent garment production process, and reduces the cutting loss and labor cost of downstream enterprises.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of textiles, and relates to a cotton-feeling free-cut stretch fabric with air permeability, a weaving method thereof and application. BACKGROUND

[0002] The free-cut fabric (also known as free-cut fabric, free-cut fabric) is a stretch fabric woven with chemical fiber yarn and elastic yarn, which has four-way elasticity effect. The free-cut fabric has the characteristics of no edge and self-locking edge without the need for edge sewing. However, the current common free-cut fabric only does not roll after unidirectional stretching, and special attention should be paid to the cutting direction during cutting, which limits the innovation of design concept and increases the cost of downstream enterprises.

[0003] Chinese patent application CN115449966A discloses a multi-bar tricot fabric with free-cut performance and a production method thereof. The multi-bar tricot fabric includes a ground net layer and a pattern yarn layer; the ground net layer adopts a pull net eye structure, the ground net yarn used in the ground net layer includes loop ground yarn, weft-inserted jacquard yarn and weft-inserted spandex yarn, the loop ground yarn adopts hot melt spandex core spun yarn, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn adopts ordinary spandex core spun yarn, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn adopts spandex yarn. The production method specifically includes: the loop ground yarn comb adopts full threading, the weft-inserted jacquard comb adopts full threading, the pattern comb selectively threads yarn according to the process, and the weft-inserted spandex comb threads yarn in the mode of one empty and one threading; then the loop ground yarn comb goes straight to the chain structure or changes the straight chain structure, the weft-inserted jacquard comb goes to the pull net eye structure, and the weft-inserted spandex comb also goes to the pull net eye structure; the pattern comb moves and weaves according to the set needle requirement of the process. The multi-bar tricot fabric has high elasticity in the warp and weft directions, and has anti-linting performance meeting the requirements of garments, changes the problem that the traditional multi-bar tricot fabric has small elasticity in the weft direction and the structure is easy to lint in the reverse weaving direction under external force, increases the application breadth of the multi-bar tricot fabric, and improves the performance of the product.

[0004] In recent years, as consumers have higher and higher requirements for fabrics, lightness, thinness, air permeability and softness are important requirements of people for fabrics. In addition, higher requirements are put forward for elasticity and deformation recovery of underwear and shapewear.

[0005] Chinese patent application CN117867721A discloses a free-cut shapewear fabric and a preparation method thereof, which optimizes the raw materials and the ratio of the free-cut shapewear fabric, and further limits the textile structure, so as to achieve good cutting, softness, air permeability and tensile effect. However, the preparation process of the ultrafine denier polyamide fiber used in the application needs to add specific raw materials and auxiliaries to make the toughness of the short fiber stronger and the air permeability better. Through the improvement of the raw materials, the process is relatively complex, and the manufacturing cost is increased.

[0006] Therefore, how to obtain the preparation of the fabric with the characteristics of random cutting, high elasticity, high recovery rate, and skin-friendly and breathable still needs further research. SUMMARY

[0007] The present application provides a fabric with breathable function and cotton feel, which can be randomly cut, and has high elasticity, high recovery rate, and other characteristics, and is widely used in underwear and shapewear.

[0008] The technical scheme of the present application is as follows: The present application provides a cotton-feeling elastic fabric with random cutting function, which is formed by three-needle integrated knitting of a first needle GB1, a second needle GB2 and a third needle GB3; the first needle GB1 and the second needle GB2 adopt an empty threading mode, and are knitted in a warp satin structure to form a front surface of the fabric; the third needle GB3 adopts a full threading mode, and is knitted in a warp satin structure to form a back surface of the fabric.

[0009] Further, the yarn feeding codes of the first needle GB1, the second needle GB2 and the third needle GB3 are as follows: The first needle GB1: 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / 3-4 / 3-2 / 2-1 / / ; The second needle GB2: 3-4 / 3-2 / 2-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / / ; The third needle GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / 3-4 / 3-2 / 2-1 / / .

[0010] Further, the yarn used by the first needle GB1 and the second needle GB2 is nylon; and / or the yarn used by the third needle GB3 is spandex.

[0011] Further, the specification of the nylon is selected from one or more of 20D / 24f DTY, 30D / 34f DTY, 40D / 51f DTY and 70D / 68f DTY; preferably 20D / 24f DTY.

[0012] Further, the specification of the spandex is selected from one or more of 20D, 30D, 40D, 55D and 70D; preferably 30D.

[0013] Further, the yarn used by the first needle GB1, the second needle GB2 and the third needle GB3 is as follows in terms of weight percentage: the first needle GB1 is 20-40%; the second needle GB2 is 20-40%; and the third needle GB3 is 20-60%.

[0014] Preferably, the yarns used by the first, second and third guide bars GB1, GB2 and GB3 are, by weight percentage: 31.5% for the first guide bar GB1; 31.5% for the second guide bar GB2; and 37% for the third guide bar GB3.

[0015] The application also provides a weaving method of the cotton-feeling random-cut stretch fabric as described above, comprising the following steps: (1) Winding: winding the yarns on the warper according to the width and the weft density requirements; (2) Warp knitting: using a three-guide bar integrated mode to weave the grey cloth according to the specified threading mode and the padding count; (3) Post-finishing process of the grey cloth.

[0016] The winding is to uniformly wind the yarns required for weaving on the warp beam of the warper with a certain tension according to the yarns required by the weaving process, for warp knitting.

[0017] Further, in the winding process, the tension of the polyamide long fibers of the first and second guide bars GB1 and GB2 is constantly kept at 4-14 g per root; and the draft rate of the spandex of the third guide bar GB3 is 70-100%.

[0018] Further, in the warp knitting process, the yarns on the first and second guide bars GB1 and GB2 are knitted to form the stretch line side, i.e. the front side of the grey cloth; and the yarns on the third guide bar GB3 are knitted to form the loop column side, i.e. the back side of the grey cloth.

[0019] Further, the post-finishing process comprises one or more combined processes of oil removal, pre-setting, dyeing, opening and post-setting.

[0020] Further, the environmental conditions for the winding and the weaving are: temperature range of 24±2℃ and humidity range of 65±5%.

[0021] The application also provides the application of the cotton-feeling random-cut stretch fabric as described above or the cotton-feeling random-cut stretch fabric woven by the weaving method as described above in underwear and shapewear.

[0022] Compared with the prior art, the application has the following beneficial effects: The present application uses high-elasticity nylon yarn, adopts the yarn threading mode of empty threading, weaves in the warp sateen structure to form a fabric front surface with a mesh effect, and the fabric has peach skin; the elastic layer is formed by weaving the elastic nylon elastic yarn in the warp sateen structure. The warp-knitted fabric woven in this way has a delicate hand feeling and a cotton effect; the fabric is a breathable fabric, after stretching, holes are exposed, the air permeability is good, and the sweat removal function is good; the fabric has a dry touch due to the special weaving structure; the recovery rate is good, and the fabric is not easy to deform; the fabric is not easy to roll, scatter or have holes after the warp direction stretching, and the subsequent garment production can be free of hemming, thereby reducing the cutting loss and labor cost of downstream enterprises. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0023] Figure 1 is a front surface effect diagram of the fabric obtained in Embodiment 1 of the present application. Figure 2 is a back surface effect diagram of the fabric obtained in Embodiment 1 of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0024] To make the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the embodiments of the present application clearer, the technical scheme in the embodiments of the present application will be described clearly and completely below. Obviously, the described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present application, rather than all the embodiments. Based on the embodiments in the present application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative labor fall within the scope of protection of the present application. It is worth noting that the raw materials used in the present application are all ordinary commercially available products, and their sources are not specifically limited.

[0025] The fabric provided in the detailed description part of the present application is all woven by KARL MAYER HKS 4 EL warp knitting machine.

[0026] Embodiment 1 The present embodiment provides a cotton-like random cutting elastic fabric with air permeability, and the yarns and weaving process parameters used are shown in Table 1.

[0027] Table 1

[0028] The cotton-like random cutting elastic fabric in the present embodiment is woven according to the process parameters in Table 1 in a three-gripper integrated manner, wherein the first gripper GB1 and the second gripper GB2 adopt the yarn threading mode of empty threading, and are woven in the warp sateen structure to form the fabric front surface; the third gripper GB3 adopts the yarn threading mode of full threading, and is woven in the warp sateen structure to form the fabric back surface.

[0029] The specific steps are as follows: (1) Winding: under the environmental conditions of temperature 24±2℃ and humidity 65±5%, the yarns used in each guide bar are wound on the corresponding winding machine according to the certain let-off amount in Table 1, specifically, the yarns are wound on the beam head in parallel and uniformly; wherein the winding speed of the first guide bar GB1 and the second guide bar GB2 is 400 m / min, and the tension is constantly kept at 4-6 g; the winding speed of the third guide bar GB3 is 220 m / min, and the yarn draft is 70%.

[0030] (2) Warp knitting: the wound yarn beam of the wound yarns is installed on the warp knitting machine according to the assembly into the warp beam, and the nylon and spandex are threaded; according to the weaving parameters and weaving structure in Table 1, the woven fabric is knitted. The nylon on the first guide bar GB1 and the second guide bar GB2 is knitted to form the process reverse side (the side of the extensible line), that is, the front side of the fabric, and the spandex on the third guide bar GB3 is knitted to form the process front side (the side of the loop column), that is, the back side of the fabric.

[0031] (3) The grey fabric is subjected to the post-finishing process (the related process conditions are shown in Table 2), specifically as follows: 3.1 Oil removal: the oil removal step adopts the water washing process. During the weaving process, due to the tension, the fabric will produce a large tensile deformation, and the grey fabric has a large residual stress. Such stress will cause the deformation of the fabric structure, and the quality indexes such as the spoke and the square meter gram weight of the fabric are difficult to control, which will have a great influence on the dyeing and finishing of the subsequent process. The grey fabric passes through the washing machine, and is relaxed under the steam or hot water at a certain temperature, so as to remove the oil, dirt and soil on the grey fabric, and relax the tension and internal stress of the grey fabric.

[0032] The specific steps and process conditions are as follows: The speed of the grey fabric passing through the washing machine is 22 m / min, the washing tension is 15 g, and the washing temperature in the washing machine is changed in stages in different regions, that is, the immersion boiling, hot washing, warm washing and cold washing are managed, and the change temperatures are 80℃, 85℃, 75℃, 73℃, 55℃ and 54℃ in turn, wherein 75℃ and 73℃ are the warm washing stage, and 55℃ and 54℃ are the cold washing stage, so as to relax the grey fabric. The higher temperature in the former stage is used for immersion and boiling to effectively remove the oil and dirt on the grey fabric, and under the heating condition, the morphology and size of the fiber change and shrink, so that the grey fabric in the warp and weft directions shrinks to a certain extent, and the grey fabric has a relaxed structure. The washing temperature shows a slow downward trend, and then the warm washing and cold washing are experienced, on the one hand, to prevent the large temperature difference from causing the unstable shrinkage rate of the grey fabric and affecting the quality of the grey fabric, and on the other hand, to eliminate the potential shrinkage existing in the fabric, so as to pre-shrink it, thereby reducing the shrinkage rate of the finished product.

[0033] 3.2 Pre-fixing: i.e. pre-fixing process, after sufficient relaxation by washing, heat setting treatment is carried out to make the grey fabric size stable, reduce shrinkage, and also prevent wrinkles, rope-like creases and thinning during subsequent wet treatment such as dyeing.

[0034] 3.3 Dyeing: acid dyes are usually used to dye the pre-fixed grey fabric.

[0035] 3.4 Opening: the dyed colored fabric is spread out.

[0036] 3.5 Post-fixing: final setting is carried out, the main purpose is to achieve the final required width, weight of the fabric, improve hand feeling, tension, fastness, yellowing, etc., and can be partially functionalized.

[0037] 3.6 Finished product inspection: the final fabric, the front effect is as shown in Figure 1 , the back effect is as shown in Figure 2 . Physical property inspection is carried out on the finished product, the detection basis and results are shown in Table 5.

[0038] Table 2

[0039] Comparative Example 1 This comparative example provides a fabric, the yarns used and the knitting process parameters are shown in Table 3.

[0040] Table 3

[0041] This comparative example cotton-elastic fabric is knitted in a three-gripper integrated manner according to the process parameters in Table 3, wherein the first gripper GB1 adopts a full-thread threading method, and is knitted in a warp pile structure to form the front of the fabric; the second gripper GB2 and the third gripper GB3 adopt an empty-thread threading method, and are knitted in a warp satin structure to form the back of the fabric.

[0042] The specific steps and parameters not involved in the table are referred to Example 1. The finished product physical property inspection results are shown in Table 5.

[0043] Comparative Example 2 This comparative example provides a fabric, the yarns used and the knitting process parameters are shown in Table 4.

[0044] Table 4

[0045] The cotton fabric of the comparative example can be woven by adopting the two-GB integrated mode according to the process parameters in Table 3, wherein the first GB GB1 adopts the full-thread threading mode to weave the face fabric by the open warp plain structure; and the second GB GB2 adopts the full-thread threading mode to weave the back fabric by the open warp plain structure.

[0046] The specific steps and parameters not involved in the table are the same as those in Example 1. The results of the finished product property test indexes are shown in Table 5.

[0047] Table 5

[0048] Note: 20%, 40%, 60% and 80% modulus respectively refer to stretching the sample with a force of 8.8 pounds, then returning to the elongation = 0, repeating the stretching three times, and recording the force value required to stretch to 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% when the third stretching rises.

[0049] According to the above table, it can be seen that the fabric woven by the process conditions of Example 1 of the present application has high elongation and recovery rate in both directions, and has better elasticity and recovery performance. In the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 2, at least one of the elongation and recovery rate in one direction does not meet the standard, and the elasticity and recovery performance is poor. In addition, the comparative example 2 adopts the full-thread threading mode, the cloth surface is flat and dense, there is no mesh, and the hand feeling is hard. Woven by the open warp plain structure, the fabric will curl after being stretched in the weft direction, and the recovery performance is poor; and the fabric has small elongation in the warp direction, and the skin-fitting property is not enough.

[0050] Finally, it should be noted that the above content is only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present application, and is not a limitation on the protection scope of the present application. Simple modifications or equivalent replacements of the technical solutions of the present application made by those skilled in the art do not deviate from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims

1. A breathable, cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric, characterized in that, The cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric is woven from three combs: the first comb GB1, the second comb GB2, and the third comb GB3. The first comb GB1 and the second comb GB2 are woven with a loose threading method to form the front side of the fabric using a warp satin structure. The third comb GB3 is woven with a full threading method to form the reverse side of the fabric using a warp satin structure.

2. The cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn padding lengths of the first guide bar GB1, the second guide bar GB2, and the third guide bar GB3 are as follows: First comb GB1: 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / 3-4 / 3-2 / 2-1 / / ; Second comb GB2: 3-4 / 3-2 / 2-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / / ; Third comb GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / 3-4 / 3-2 / 2-1 / / .

3. The cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn used in the first comb GB1 and the second comb GB2 is nylon; the yarn used in the third comb GB3 is spandex.

4. The cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that, The nylon is selected from one or more of 20D / 24f DTY, 30D / 34f DTY, 40D / 51f DTY and 70D / 68f DTY; and / or the spandex is selected from one or more of 20D, 30D, 40D, 55D and 70D.

5. The cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, The nylon is 20D / 24f DTY; and / or the spandex is 30D.

6. The cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn used in the first guide bar GB1, the second guide bar GB2, and the third guide bar GB3, by weight percentage, is as follows: 20-40% for the first guide bar GB1; 20-40% for the second guide bar GB2; and 20-60% for the third guide bar GB3.

7. The method for weaving a cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: (1) Warping: The yarn is warped on a warping machine according to the width and warp density requirements; (2) Warp knitting: The fabric is woven using a three-comb integrated method according to the specified yarn threading method and padding yarn count; (3) Perform post-processing on the greige fabric to obtain the final product.

8. The weaving method according to claim 7, characterized in that, During the warping process, the tension of the nylon fibers in the first comb GB1 and the second comb GB2 is kept constant at 4-14 g / fiber; the draw ratio of the spandex in the third comb GB3 is 70-100%.

9. The weaving method according to claim 7, characterized in that, The finishing process includes: degreasing, pre-setting, dyeing, opening, and post-setting; the environmental conditions for warping and weaving are: temperature range of 24±2℃ and humidity range of 65±5%.

10. The application of the cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric according to any one of claims 1-6 or the cotton-feel, freely cut elastic fabric woven by the weaving method according to claims 7-9 in underwear and shapewear.

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