Perfumed cosmetic dispersions stabilized by sterile suspensions

Abstract

A perfuming cosmetic dispersion stabilized by a sterile suspension. The invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a dispersion comprising a dispersed phase in the form of a capsule and a continuous aqueous phase, characterized in that: the capsule comprises a volume fraction of 50-70% relative to the total volume of the composition; -the capsule comprises a shell and a core, the core comprising at least one fat phase, the fat phase comprising at least one perfuming agent; -the capsule comprises a Ri / Rc ratio of from 0.5 to 0.8, preferably from 0.6 to 0.8, and better from 0.6 to 0.7, where:-Ri corresponds to the radius of the core of the capsule; and-Rc corresponds to the radius of the capsule.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a dispersion comprising a dispersed phase in the form of capsules and a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the capsules represent a volume fraction of 50% to 70% relative to the total volume of the composition, in particular for cosmetic applications. BACKGROUND

[0002] The preparation of perfuming compositions relies mainly on the solubilization of aromatic compounds in hydroalcoholic solutions (mixtures of water and alcohol, typically ethanol). The use of alcohol such as ethanol allows to solubilize aromatic compounds which are generally not soluble or poorly soluble in water, thanks to its solvent properties.

[0003] But alcohol has many drawbacks; it is a skin sensitizer, a drying agent, an irritant. Moreover, it is not recommended for young children. Also, environmental regulations have become more stringent regarding volatile compounds such as ethanol.

[0004] Water-based perfuming compositions free of ethanol are known. Such compositions are an alternative to alcohol-based perfumes, but have not reached the expected commercial success so far. This is in particular due to the fact that these water-based perfuming compositions free of ethanol contain high rates of surfactants which are considered as irritating agents and which can lead to a greasy or sticky sensation upon application and to a skin tightness. Moreover, surfactants can also modify the olfactive profile of the perfuming agents.

[0005] There is therefore a need in the field of perfumery and more generally in the field of cosmetics to replace hydroalcoholic compositions and to provide perfuming compositions free of alcohol and / or containing a reduced amount or even zero of surfactants compared to current compositions.

[0006] A first solution to meet this need lies in nano / microemulsions, described in particular in US5468725 or WO2021156521, whose stability relies on very small dispersed phase droplets and the use of high surfactant content. However, this technical solution is not completely satisfactory as nano / microemulsions have a milky appearance and the presence of high content of surfactants usually leads to a sticky sensation. More importantly, surfactants are usually irritating and have a bad image from the consumers.

[0007] The second solution consists in dispersions in which the dispersed phase is in the form of macrocapsules dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase in the form of a suspended aqueous gel, due to the presence of a hydrophilic gelling agent, for example chosen from carbomers or polysaccharides. Such dispersions, in particular those described in WO2010 / 063937, are generally transparent and have an attractive visual appearance. However, it is known that certain active agents present in the dispersed phase, in particular perfuming agents, migrate towards the continuous phase and cause the continuous phase to become opaque and / or interact with the hydrophilic gelling agent, leading to a decrease in the viscosity of this continuous aqueous phase. These degradations result in a final product which is opaque and / or non-suspended, which can be acidic and which has an unsuitable texture. Furthermore, the use of a suspended aqueous gel makes it difficult, if not impossible, to formulate it in the form of a spray. Finally, this type of dispersion requires the use of capsules with a shell which is sufficiently robust to ensure satisfactory kinetic stability. However, this robustness is sometimes at the expense of the organoleptic qualities, since the application of such dispersions is generally accompanied by the presence of an undesirable residual film. It is precisely this drawback which led the Applicant to develop a package equipped with a tangential filter to retain the outer shell, as described in WO2014 / 027039. Furthermore, it is precisely this drawback which makes this type of dispersion incompatible with a package equipped with a spray-type dispensing pump. SUMMARY

[0008] The present invention aims to provide a new composition in the form of a stable dispersion in which the system ensuring the suspension of the capsules remains effective, including in the presence of high contents of perfuming agents.

[0009] Furthermore, the present invention aims to provide a new composition in the form of a stable dispersion which has the ability to easily adjust the ratio of the dispersed phase.

[0010] The present invention also aims to provide a new composition in the form of a stable dispersion which has an improved organoleptic quality.

[0011] Finally, the present invention aims to provide a new composition in the form of a stable dispersion which is sprayable, i.e. which offers a high sprayability.

[0012] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a dispersion comprising a dispersed phase in the form of capsules and a continuous aqueous phase, characterized in that:

[0013] - the capsules represent a volume fraction of 40% to 80% and in particular of 50% to 70% relative to the total volume of the composition;

[0014] - the capsules comprise a shell and a core, the core comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least one perfuming agent; and

[0015] - the capsule comprises a Ri / Rc ratio of 0.5 to 0.8, preferably 0.6 to 0.8, and better still 0.6 to 0.7, in which:

[0016] - Ri corresponds to the radius of the core of the capsule; and

[0017] - Rc corresponds to the radius of the capsule.

[0018] Surprisingly, the inventors observed that the composition according to the application ensures a satisfactory suspension of the capsules, easy adjustment of the core content of the capsules, and even very good sprayability, including in the presence of a high content of perfuming agent(s) in the dispersed phase.

[0019] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the minimum volume fraction required in the macrocapsules makes it possible to place the composition of the application in a state close to close packing, which minimizes or even makes negligible the instability associated with the creaming or the sedimentation of the capsules, in particular the creaming phenomenon. This can be called "spatial suspension" or "autonomous suspension", in which each macrocapsule participates in the suspension of the adjacent capsules.

[0020] This observation is all the more surprising because the composition according to the application, despite the high capsule volume fraction, has very satisfactory organoleptic qualities, in particular leading to the absence of residual shell (or "residual film") or to a residual film which, when present, is (i) not too much of an impact on the appearance of the composition applied to the material to be treated and (ii) easy to apply and to disappear on application.

[0021] This observation is even more surprising because the composition according to the application, despite the high capsule volume fraction, is still compatible with the spray, i.e. with the formulation in the form of a spray.

[0022] According to the application, the pH of the composition is typically from 4.0 to 8.0, in particular from 5.0 to 7.0.

[0023] In the following, unless otherwise stated, it is considered to be at ambient temperature (for example T = 25°C ± 2°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1,013.10 5 Pa or 10 13 mbar).

[0024] Continuous aqueous phase

[0025] According to the application, the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least water. In addition to distilled water or deionized water, the water suitable for the application can also be a natural spring water or a floral water.

[0026] The continuous aqueous phase can be used as a dispersion medium for the capsules and ensures permanent hydration of their shell.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase can comprise at least water and optionally at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and is thus described as an "aqueous gel".

[0028] "Hydrophilic" means a gelling agent that is soluble or dispersible in water.

[0029] The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) can in particular modulate the fluidity of the continuous aqueous phase, and thus the texture and / or the organoleptic qualities of the composition.

[0030] Preferably, the mass percentage of water in the continuous aqueous phase is at least 70%, in particular from 70% to 98%, preferably from 80% to 95%, relative to the total mass of the continuous aqueous phase.

[0031] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase represents a volume fraction of less than 50%, preferably from 15% to 49%, in particular from 30% to 40%, relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0032] As additional hydrophilic gelling agent, mention can be made of:

[0033] - natural gelling agents, in particular chosen from algal extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, microbial exudates, such as alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents, in particular hyaluronic acid,

[0034] - semi-synthetic gelling agents, in particular chosen from cellulose derivatives and modified starches,

[0035] - synthetic gelling agents, in particular chosen from (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers or one of their esters, (meth)acrylic acid copolymers or one of their esters, AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) copolymers, associative polymers such as those described in FR 2 999 921,

[0036] - other gelling agents, in particular chosen from clays, silicas, such as those sold under the name Aérosil® 90 / 130 / 150 / 200 / 300 / 380), and

[0037] - mixtures thereof.

[0038] These hydrophilic gelling agents are described in more detail in FR 3 041 251.

[0039] In particular, the hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably chosen from polyosides, galactomannans, polysaccharides, glucosaminoglycans, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum, carrageenan gum, locust bean gum, guar gum, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid, cellulose derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Of course, the person skilled in the art will ensure that any hydrophilic gelling agent and / or their amounts are chosen so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the application are not or are not substantially modified by the envisaged addition. These adjustments are within the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0042] Preferably, the composition, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, does not comprise a carbomer (or an acrylic polymer).

[0043] Preferably, the composition, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, does not comprise a base, in particular an alkali metal hydroxide, and in particular NaOH (or a sodium base).

[0044] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase is liquid and non-suspending with respect to the capsules.

[0045] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase has a high-shear viscosity of less than or equal to 100 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 50 mPa.s, in particular less than or equal to 25 mPa.s, better still less than or equal to 10 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C and under a shear stress of 100 s -1

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the application is sprayable.

[0047] In the meaning of the present application, the term "sprayable" or "spraying" refers to the ability of the composition to be sprayed in the form of fine droplets using a spray-type delivery device (pump) or even pressurized (aerosol). In other words, the composition according to the application is advantageously a vaporizable composition.

[0048] Advantageously, the continuous aqueous phase has a yield value (valeur de seuil d’écoulement) of less than or equal to 1 Pa, in particular less than or equal to 0.1 Pa, very particularly less than or equal to 0.01 Pa, or even no yield value. The yield value is measured at 25°C by the following method.

[0049] The viscosity and the yield value are measured by the following method:

[0050] All the measurements are carried out using a DHR10 rheometer from TA Instruments, equipped with a 1 o ​A cone and plate tool of 40 mm diameter, with a gap of 29 μιη was used. The rheometer was controlled by Trios software. The measurements were performed at 18°C, the temperature being controlled by a Peltier device. The rheological behaviour was measured here using a shear sweep protocol (flow sweep). Once the sample was in place and the temperature of 18°C was reached, the sample was left to rest for 60 seconds so that it could relax its stress. It was then submitted to a logarithmic shear sweep from 0.01 to 500 s -1 The viscosity (mPa.s) and stress (Pa) curves were plotted using the Trios software. The analysis of the stress curve by the software using the Herschel-Bulkley model made it possible to express the rheological behaviour according to the following equation.

[0051]

[0052] where is the shear stress; is the yield value; is the consistency coefficient; is the shear rate, and is the flow index.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, in particular less than 2.5%, or even no alcohol, in particular ethanol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The term "alcohol" is understood to mean in particular a lower alkyl alcohol, with the exception of any alcohol present as a perfuming agent. The lower alkyl alcohol can be an aliphatic monohydric alcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. This lower alkyl alcohol can be ethanol.

[0055] The composition is preferably free of any lower alkyl alcohol.

[0056] In the meaning of the present application, "not comprising ethanol" or "not comprising alcohol" can also mean a cosmetic prepared by a preparation process which preferably does not comprise a step of adding a lower alkyl alcohol and does not comprise a step of mixing a lower alkyl alcohol with other ingredients.

[0057] However, it cannot be excluded that traces of lower alkyl alcohol, in particular traces of ethanol, can be present in some of the ingredients used to prepare the cosmetic of the application, in particular certain perfuming agents.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase can further comprise at least one deaggregating agent, in particular when the shell of the capsule comprises at least one polyelectrolyte in gel state, and in particular at least one polyelectrolyte reactive towards polyvalent ions, as described hereafter.

[0059] In the context of the present description, the term "deaggregating agent" means a compound capable of weakening the shell of the capsule to facilitate the application of the composition and in particular to prevent the appearance of residual shells (or "residual films") during the application. Deaggregating agents are notably described in WO2013 / 132082. According to one embodiment, the polyelectrolyte of the capsule is chosen from polyelectrolytes reactive with calcium ions, such as sodium alginate, and the deaggregating agent is chosen from calcium chelating agents and salts capable of exchanging with calcium, such as EDTA.

[0060] Advantageously, the continuous aqueous phase is transparent, so that the consumer can visualize the capsules.

[0061] Capsules

[0062] The composition according to the application comprises macroscopic, preferably monodisperse, capsules.

[0063] In the meaning of the present application, the term "capsule" means a substantially spherical macroscopic element of the core / shell type, wherein the shell entirely encapsulates the core and the core comprises at least one droplet of a fatty phase comprising at least one perfuming agent.

[0064] The capsule according to the application forms a "dispersed phase" or a "dispersed fatty phase".

[0065] The shell can indifferently be called "film" or "enveloppe".

[0066] In the meaning of the present application, the terms "macroscopic", "macroscopic capsule" or "macrodispersion" mean capsules visible to the naked eye, and not microcapsules invisible to the naked eye. Thus, preferably, the capsules have a diameter (or size) greater than or equal to 250 μιη, or even greater than or equal to 500 μιη, in particular from 250 μιη to 3,000 μιη, better from 500 μιη to 2,000 μιη, very particularly from 750 μιη to 1,000 μιη.

[0067] Shell

[0068] The shell entirely encapsulating the core is advantageously a gelled enveloppe and / or an enveloppe resulting from a complex coacervation reaction.

[0069] Preferably, the shell is an aqueous phase.

[0070] Advantageously, the shell is transparent. This transparency of the shell is particularly advantageous as it gives an impression to the composition of the application according to which the droplets of fatty phase (or cores) are not in contact with each other and perfectly suspended in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0071] Advantageously, the shell has a uniform thickness. In the meaning of the present application, by "uniform thickness" is meant a capsule whose shell thickness varies according to a standard deviation of less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5%.

[0072] In the context of the present specification, the term "gelled envelope" means an outer phase surrounding the core of the capsule and comprising at least one compound in gelled state or in gel form.

[0073] Typically, the shell is a hydrogel of at least one polyelectrolyte in gelled state and / or of at least one thermo-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent, and / or is a shell resulting from a complex coacervation reaction between two oppositely charged polymers capable of coacervation.

[0074] Preferably, the shell comprises at least one polyelectrolyte in gelled state and / or at least one thermo-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent, and / or at least two oppositely charged polymers capable of coacervation, preferably at least one polyelectrolyte.

[0075] The gelled envelope is generally formed of a single layer of homogenous material.

[0076] For obvious reasons, the thickness of the shell of the capsule according to the application is advantageously adjusted to provide satisfaction in terms of mechanical strength, sprayability and organoleptic quality. This thickness of the shell of the capsule further advantageously is that it influences the Ri / Rc ratio and confers the ability to easily adjust the fat phase ratio rate while maintaining the desired capsule volume fraction of the composition of the application.

[0077] Thus, the present application is based on an easy way to decouple the volume fraction of the capsule from the fat phase ratio, and this is achieved in particular by adjusting the thickness of the shell.

[0078] Thus, preferably, the shell of the capsule has a thickness of between 62.5 microns and 1200 microns, preferably between 100 microns and 1000 microns, better still between 200 microns and 750 microns, in particular between 300 microns and 500 microns, or even between 100 microns and 200 microns.

[0079] In particular, the shell of the capsule has a thickness of greater than 80 microns, preferably greater than 120 microns, in particular greater than 170 microns.

[0080] The presence of a shell having a minimum thickness advantageously makes it possible to adjust, in particular to reduce, the content of polyelectrolyte in gelled state, thermo-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent and / or oppositely charged polymers capable of coacervation. This makes it possible to obtain a composition according to the application which has optimized performance in terms of sprayability and organoleptic quality, while ensuring satisfactory mechanical strength of the capsule.

[0081] The presence of a shell with a minimum thickness is further advantageous when transparent, as it also contributes to the above-mentioned visual impression that the fat phase drops (or cores) do not touch each other and are perfectly suspended in the continuous water phase.

[0082] Preferably, the shell of the capsule has a thickness different from a value comprised between 80 microns and 200 microns, preferably between 100 microns and 180 microns, better still between 120 microns and 170 microns.

[0083] Preferably, the shell of the capsule is a gelled envelope comprising a gel comprising water and at least one polyelectrolyte, advantageously chosen from proteins, natural polysaccharides and polyelectrolytes reactive towards multivalent ions, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] In the meaning of the present invention, the term "polyelectrolyte reactive towards multivalent ions" means a polyelectrolyte capable of transforming from a liquid state in an aqueous solution to a gelled state upon contact with a gelling solution containing multivalent ions, such as alkaline earth metal ions, chosen for example from calcium ions, barium ions and magnesium ions.

[0085] In the liquid state, the individual polyelectrolyte chains are substantially free to flow relative to each other. An aqueous solution with 2% by mass of polyelectrolyte exhibits a purely viscous behaviour under the shear gradient characteristic of the shaping process. The viscosity of this solution at zero shear is between 50 mPa.s and 10 000 mPa.s, advantageously between 3000 mPa.s and 7000 mPa.s. The viscosity under the shear gradient characteristic of the flow involved in the manufacture of the capsule is measured, for example, using a rheometer using stress or strain application at the manufacturing temperature (for example 25°C). For this measurement, a cone-plate geometry will be used with a diameter of 10-50 mm and a cone angle of at most 1 o .

[0086] The individual polyelectrolyte chains in the liquid state advantageously have a molar mass greater than 65,000 g / mol.

[0087] In the gelled state, the individual polyelectrolyte chains form, with the multivalent ions, a coherent three-dimensional network which holds the liquid core and prevents it from flowing. The individual chains are held relative to each other and cannot flow freely relative to each other. In this state, the viscosity of the gel formed is infinite.

[0088] The three-dimensional polyelectrolyte gel contained in the envelope captures water and surfactant (when present).

[0089] Advantageously, the polyelectrolyte is chosen from polysaccharides, synthetic polyelectrolytes based on acrylate (polyacrylic acid sodium, lithium, potassium or ammonium, or polyacrylamide), synthetic polyelectrolytes based on sulfonate (for example polystyrene sulfonate sodium). More particularly, the polyelectrolyte is chosen from alkaline earth metal alginates, such as sodium or potassium alginate, gellan gum or pectin.

[0090] Preferably, the polyelectrolyte is chosen from proteins such as collagen; natural polysaccharides such as heparan sulfate; polyelectrolytes reactive towards multivalent ions, in particular polysaccharides reactive towards multivalent ions, such as alginate, pectin, in particular low methoxyl pectin, carrageenan, in particular kappa carrageenan and iota carrageenan, gellan gum, Diutan gum, furcellaran, or one of its derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and preferably polyelectrolytes reactive towards multivalent ions.

[0091] According to one embodiment of the application, the polyelectrolyte is sodium alginate.

[0092] Alginate is produced from brown algae known as "kombu" (English term for "sea weed").

[0093] By "thermosensitive gelling agent" is meant a gelling agent reactive towards heat, in particular a gelling agent which is solid at ambient temperature and liquid at a temperature higher than 40°C, preferably higher than 50°C.

[0094] Preferably, the thermosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from agar agar, kappa carrageenan, konjac, gelatin and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, the thermosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent is not a hydrophilic gelling agent which is able to gel in the presence of at least one salt.

[0096] The oppositely charged polymers which are able to coacervate comprise at least one first cationic polymer and at least one second anionic polymer.

[0097] In view of the foregoing, these oppositely charged polymers which are able to coacervate are advantageously hydrophilic.

[0098] According to one particular embodiment, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic and the cationic polymer is lipophilic and thus present in the fatty phase, or vice versa. This embodiment is particularly described in WO2012120043.

[0099] The oppositely charged polymers which are able to coacervate can be chosen from the "gum arabic (or acacia) / gelatin" pair, the "albumin / alginate" pair or the "gelatin / alginate" pair.

[0100] Of course, the person skilled in the art will ensure that the polyelectrolyte and / or the thermosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent and / or the oppositely charged polymers which are able to coacervate and / or their amounts are chosen so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the application are not or are not substantially modified by the envisaged addition. These adjustments are within the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0101] The composition according to the application can advantageously comprise from 0.25% to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 3%, better still from 0.75% to 1% by weight of polyelectrolyte and / or of thermosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent and / or of oppositely charged polymer capable of coacervation, relative to the total weight of the shell.

[0102] Advantageously, the shell, in particular when represented by a gelled envelope as described above, can further comprise at least one surfactant.

[0103] The surfactant is advantageously an anionic surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant or a mixture thereof. The molecular weight of the surfactant is advantageously from 150 g / mol to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 250 g / mol to 1,500 g / mol.

[0104] In the case where the surfactant is an anionic surfactant, it is for example chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkali metal alkyl phosphates, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, alkaline earth metal salts of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids or mixtures thereof. These surfactants advantageously have at least one hydrophobic hydrocarbon chain with a carbon number greater than 5 or even 10, and at least one hydrophilic anionic group such as sulfate, sulfonate or carboxylate, linked to one end of the hydrophobic chain.

[0105] In the case where the surfactant is a cationic surfactant, it is for example chosen from alkyl pyridinium or alkyl ammonium halide salts such as n-ethyl dodecyl ammonium chloride or bromide, hexadecyl ammonium chloride or bromide (CTAB) or mixtures thereof. These surfactants advantageously have at least one hydrophobic hydrocarbon chain with a carbon atom number greater than 5 or even 10, and at least one hydrophilic cationic group such as a quaternary ammonium cation.

[0106] In the case where the surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant, it is for example chosen from polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene derivatives of fatty alcohols, fatty acids or alkyl phenols, or from alkyl glucosides, polysorbates, cocamides or mixtures thereof.

[0107] According to one embodiment of the application, the surfactant is sodium dodecyl sulfate (SLS or SDS) or sodium dodecyl glutamate.

[0108] The mass content of surfactant in the shell is advantageously greater than 0.001%, preferably greater than 0.1%, in particular from 0.001% to 1%, better still from 0.01% to 0.5%, relative to the total weight of the shell.

[0109] Core

[0110] The capsule comprises a liquid or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic core, and preferably a liquid core.

[0111] According to a first particular embodiment, the fat phase of the core of the capsule according to the application is monophasic and thus comprises only one fat phase.

[0112] According to a second particular embodiment, the fat phase of the core of the capsule according to the application is at least biphasic; thus, this fat phase is in the form of an inverse emulsion (or "water-in-oil emulsion"), in which the dispersed phase is in the form of microscopic droplets.

[0113] According to a first embodiment, the capsule is a so-called "simple" capsule, meaning that the core is monophasic, i.e. consists of a single fat phase, all or part of which is in contact with the shell. A simple capsule is for example the capsule described in WO2010 / 063937.

[0114] According to a first variant, the simple capsule comprises two distinct phases, namely a fat phase in the form of a single drop and an outer phase in the gelled state surrounding the fat phase. This first variant of the simple capsule is illustrated in Figure 1 WO2010 / 063937 (10: capsule; 14: shell; 12: fat phase).

[0115] According to a second variant, the simple capsule comprises two distinct phases, namely a fat phase in the form of multiple drops and an outer phase in the gelled state surrounding all the fat phase drops. This second variant of the simple capsule is illustrated in Figure 2 WO2010 / 063937 (10: capsule; 14: shell; 12: fat phase).

[0116] Alternatively, in the simple capsule described above, the fat phase itself can be in the form of an inverse emulsion.

[0117] According to another embodiment, the capsule is a so-called "complex" capsule, meaning that the core comprises an intermediate fat phase, all or part of which is placed in contact with the shell, and at least one inner drop of an inner phase is arranged in the intermediate fat phase.

[0118] According to a first variant, the complex capsule is such that the core comprises a single intermediate drop of an intermediate fat phase, all or part of which is placed in contact with the shell, and at least one inner drop of an inner phase is arranged in the intermediate drop and is immiscible with the intermediate drop. This second variant of the simple capsule is illustrated in Figure 3 WO2010 / 063937 (10: capsule; 14: shell; 12: fat phase; 16: inner phase).

[0119] According to a second variant (not illustrated), the complex capsule is such that the core comprises a plurality of intermediate drops of an intermediate fat phase, all or part of which is placed in contact with the shell, and each intermediate drop comprises at least one inner drop of an inner phase arranged in each intermediate drop and immiscible with the intermediate drop.

[0120] The core of such a complex capsule can thus comprise an intermediate fat phase in which the single drop of internal phase or the multiple drops of internal phase are present.

[0121] Alternatively, in the complex capsule described above, the fat phase itself can be in the form of an inverse emulsion.

[0122] For obvious reasons, the continuous aqueous phase and the fat phase are immiscible. "Immiscible" or "immiscible" within the meaning of the application means that the solubility of the first phase in the second phase is advantageously less than 5% by mass, and vice versa.

[0123] For obvious reasons, in the complex capsule, the intermediate fat phase and the internal phase are immiscible.

[0124] Thus, according to a first variant of the complex capsule, the intermediate phase is a fat phase and the internal phase is an aqueous phase. According to a second variant, the intermediate phase is a first fat phase and the internal phase is a second fat phase immiscible with the first fat phase. Pairs of immiscible oils are described in particular in FR 3 063 893.

[0125] Each internal drop of the complex capsule advantageously has a substantially spherical shape. Alternatively, the internal drop has a shape other than a spherical shape, for example an ellipsoidal or lenticular shape.

[0126] The internal drops of the complex capsule are advantageously macroscopic. The internal drops of the complex capsule advantageously have a size (or diameter) greater than 150 pm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 pm, preferably greater than or equal to 200 pm, but in all cases necessarily less than the diameter of the core of the capsule. The determination of the size of the capsules or drops is within the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art and can in particular be measured by the method using the image processing software "Image J".

[0127] The sum of the volumes of the internal drop or of each internal drop is advantageously between 5% and 65% of the total volume of the core and preferably between 10% and 55% of the volume of the core.

[0128] In view of the above, in the composition according to the application, the capsule can comprise a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic core, which is monophasic or comprises an intermediate drop of a fat phase, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase arranged in the intermediate drop.

[0129] The minimum volume of the core is advantageously between 5% and 80%, preferably between 10% and 70%, better still between 20% and 60%, and in particular between 30% and 50%, relative to the total volume of the capsule.

[0130] Preferably, the core of the capsule has a diameter of between 125 pm and 1,500 pm, better still between 250 pm and 1,200 pm, very particularly between 500 pm and 1,000 pm.

[0131] In the case of a composite capsule, the core is understood to mean the intermediate phase and the internal phase.

[0132] The capsules of the composition according to the application represent a volume fraction of between 50% and 70% of the total volume of the composition.

[0133] As mentioned previously, it is this high volume fraction of capsules which ensures their suspension in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0134] Preferably, the volume fraction of capsules is between 55% and 65%, preferably between 57% and 63%, relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0135] In particular, the inventors have observed that the nature and / or the content of the polyelectrolyte and / or of the thermosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent forming the shell of the capsules makes it possible to modulate the mechanical strength (or crushing strength) of the capsules and thus to modulate their deformability, thereby making it possible to further increase the volume fraction of capsules relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0136] Thus, and as mentioned above, the capsules of the composition according to the application comprise a Ri / Rc ratio of between 0.5 and 0.8, preferably between 0.6 and 0.8, and better still between 0.6 and 0.7, in which:

[0137] - Ri corresponds to the radius of the core of the capsule; and

[0138] - Rc corresponds to the radius of the capsule, i.e. resulting from the sum of the radius of the core and the thickness of the shell of the capsule.

[0139] In the case where the capsule is a composite capsule, Rc also includes the radius of the internal drop of the internal phase.

[0140] Preferably, the capsules according to the application comprise an (e) / Ri ratio of between 0.2 and 1, preferably between 0.3 and 0.8, very particularly between 0.4 and 0.7, in which:

[0141] - (e) corresponds to the thickness of the shell; and

[0142] - Ri corresponds to the radius of the core of the capsule.

[0143] As can be seen from Example 4 below, these values of the Ri / Rc ratio or of the (e) / Ri ratio correspond to a satisfactory and non-obvious compromise between mechanical strength, sprayability and organoleptic quality.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the application can comprise from 45% to 85%, preferably from 50% to 75%, and better still from 55% to 70% by weight of capsules, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Advantageously, the composition according to the application can comprise from 5% to 40%, preferably from 10% to 30%, better still from 15% to 20% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Fragrancing agent

[0147] The core of the capsule comprises at least one perfuming agent.

[0148] For obvious reasons, the perfuming agents according to the application are lipophilic agents, i.e. soluble or dispersible in organic solvents, in particular oils.

[0149] In the meaning of the present application, a "perfuming agent" can also be indistinctly referred to as a "perfume", a "perfume juice" or a "perfume concentrate", which can be selected from compounds having the INCI name "perfume" or "fragrance". Thus, in the meaning of the present application, the term "perfume" does not refer to a mixture comprising a perfume concentrate and an alcohol.

[0150] The perfuming agents that can be used according to the application are the ingredients that are usually used in the perfumery industry. Their nature does not require more detailed description here, which would not be exhaustive, since the person skilled in the art is able to select them on the basis of his general knowledge and according to the olfactory effect desired. These perfuming agents belong to as many chemical classes as alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, esters, ethers, acetates, nitriles, terpene hydrocarbons, nitrogenous or sulphurous heterocyclic compounds, and essential oils of natural or synthetic origin. Many of these ingredients are listed in reference texts, such as the book by S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals, 1969, Montclair, New Jersey, USA, or more recent versions thereof, or other similar works, as well as more recent scientific and patent literature relating to the field of perfumery.

[0151] For example, a perfuming agent is a compound or a mixture of compounds which is at least partially volatile at ambient temperature and whose odor can be detected. Perfuming agents consisting of essential oils are usually diluted to express their full olfactory potential, that is to say the sensation which varies over the course of the day after application to the surface to be treated, due to the presence of several odoriferous organic compounds which have different volatilities from one another. The development of a perfume involves the step of combining several perfuming raw materials to confer a top note, a heart note and a base note on the perfuming composition.

[0152] The perfuming agents can be prepared from natural or synthetic organic perfuming materials.

[0153] Examples of natural perfuming materials are flowers, leaves stems, fruits, peels, roots, woods, herbs, grasses, resins, balsams, extracts of these and mixtures thereof.

[0154] These plant perfuming materials can be essential oils such as bergamot, rose, lavender, sandalwood, cardamom, sage, chamomile, clove, hyssop, mint, cinnamon leaves, juniper, orchid tree, olibanum, galbanum, labdanum and mixtures thereof.

[0155] Examples of synthetic perfuming materials are methyl dihydrojasmonate, musk T, cyclopentadecenolactone, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.-butylcyclohexyl acetate, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, geranyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinc alkylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate, benzyl salicylate, benzyl ethyl ether, linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, geranial, hydroxycitronellal, ionones such as a- isomethylionone, methyl cedryl ketone, anethole, citronellol, eugenol, iso-eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethanol, terpinen-4-ol, terpenes and mixtures thereof.

[0156] These compounds are generally present in the form of mixtures of two or more of these odoriferous substances.

[0157] The nature of the compositions according to the application, in particular the nature of the capsules, makes them allow a high content of perfuming agents without compromising the kinetic stability of the composition, in particular the suspension of the capsules in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0158] Thus, the fatty phase of the composition according to the application can advantageously comprise from 5% to 30%, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of perfuming agents, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Moreover, the composition can advantageously comprise from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 90%, in particular from 25% to 80%, or even from 50% to 70% by weight of perfuming agents, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase of the capsule.

[0160] Oil

[0161] According to a particular embodiment, the core of the capsule can further comprise at least one oil.

[0162] The term "oil" means a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature.

[0163] As oils which can be used in the dispersion according to the application, one can for example mention:

[0164] - Hydrocarbon oils derived from plants, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, and hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0165] - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as fully hydrogenated squalene and squalane;

[0166] - Synthetic esters and ethers, particularly fatty acid esters and ethers, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2, where R1 represents a C8-C29 fatty acid residue and R2 represents a branched or unbranched C3-C30 hydrocarbon chain, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucic acid, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisoceryl citrate, heptanoate, caprylate, and decanoate of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetrahydropalmatine. DUB PTB or pentaerythritol tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

[0167] - Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parléam oil;

[0168] - Organosilicon oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having linear or cyclic siloxane chains, which are liquid or paste at ambient temperature, particularly cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclodimethylsiloxanes), such as cyclohexylsiloxane and cyclopentylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethylpolysiloxanes) containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups on the side chains or at the ends of the organosilicon chains, said groups having 2-24 carbon atoms; phenylenedilicates, such as phenyltrimethylpolysiloxane, phenyldimethylpolysiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylpolysiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and polymethylphenylsiloxane;

[0169] - Fatty alcohols having 8-26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanool;

[0170] - Partially hydrocarbonated and / or organosiliconized fluorinated oils, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0171] - and their mixtures.

[0172] According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty phase does not comprise silicone oil, and preferably does not comprise polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS).

[0173] Of course, the person skilled in the art will ensure that the possible oils and / or their amounts are chosen so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the application are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. These adjustments are within the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0174] According to one embodiment, the dispersion according to the application comprises from 0% to 95%, in particular from 10% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 75%, in particular from 30% to 50% by weight of oil, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0175] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0176] According to one particular embodiment, the core of the capsule can further comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular when the core is at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic.

[0177] The lipophilic gelling agent, i.e. a gelling agent that is soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase, can be chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; fatty substances that are solid at ambient temperature and pressure, in particular chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters; and mixtures thereof, and preferably from polymeric gelling agents. Such lipophilic gelling agents are described in particular in WO2019002308.

[0178] Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the application, mention can be made of esters of fatty acids and dextrin, such as dextrin palmitate. Among the esters of fatty acids and dextrin, mention can be made of, for example, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof. Mention can in particular be made of the esters of fatty acids and dextrin sold by Miyoshi Europe under the names Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate) and Rheopearl® MKL2 (INCI name: dextrin myristate), and of the dextrin palmitate sold by the company Innovation.

[0179] One can also mention THIXCIN® R from Elementis Specialties (INCI: Trihydroxy Stearin), OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer from Lubrizol (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), Oilkemia™ 5S CC polymer (INCI: INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Tris-Hydroxymethyl Hexyl Lactone Crosspolymer), Estogel M from PolymerExpert (INCI: Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer & Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), EMC30 (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer), hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymers and their derivatives, in particular those sold under the names Estogel Green (or Estogel G) and Estogel Green 40, respectively, by PolymerExpert, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Advantageously, the lipophilic gelling agent is a heat-sensitive gelling agent.

[0181] According to the application, the composition according to the application can comprise from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, in particular from 1.5% to 20%, better still from 2% to 15%, and very particularly from 5% to 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0182] Of course, the person skilled in the art will ensure that the possible lipophilic gelling agents and / or their amounts are chosen so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the application are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. These adjustments are within the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0183] Monodispersity

[0184] Preferably, the capsules have a monodisperse distribution.

[0185] This monodispersity advantageously contributes to the spatial suspension and the sprayability described above. Indeed, the inventors observed that, for a composition comprising polydisperse capsules, the smaller capsules tend to occupy the spaces between the larger capsules. This phenomenon leads to a local increase in the density of the capsules and thus mechanically to the creaming of the capsules. These drawbacks affect the appearance of the composition and the homogeneity during application, and even the sprayability of the composition. One solution to overcome these drawbacks consists in adding at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, such as those described above (for increasing the viscosity), in the continuous aqueous phase. However, this solution is not optimal in view of the above-mentioned drawbacks of the dispersions of the prior art.

[0186] In the meaning of the present application, the term "monodisperse" refers to a composition whose polydispersity of the capsule size (measured by the coefficient of variation C v of less than 10%, in particular 1-10%.

[0187] This ratio can be measured, for example, based on the diameter measured for at least seven capsules based on the images of the capsules taken from above using a digital camera, using the image processing software "Image J",

[0188] Alternatively, the polydispersity of the capsule mass can be calculated based on at least fifty measurements of the mass of fifty composite capsules carried out using a Mettler-Toledo type balance (accuracy 0.1 mg).

[0189] Additional compounds

[0190] According to the application, the dispersion according to the application, in particular the continuous phase and / or the phase constituting the shell and / or the fatty phase, can comprise at least one additional compound distinct from the oil, the hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agent and the perfuming agent as described above.

[0191] The dispersion according to the application can thus also comprise powders; reflective particles, in particular glittering pigments, in particular as defined in FR 3082731 ; colorants, in particular chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or fat-insoluble, organic or inorganic colorants, materials with an optical effect, liquid crystals and mixtures thereof; fillers, in particular as described in FR 1755907; emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in particular as described in EP 2353577; "soft focus" fillers; texture agents, in particular polyethylene glycols (sold under the name Carbowax) or glycerol; preservatives; moisturizers; stabilizers; chelating agents; emollients; pH adjusters, osmotic strength adjusters and / or refractive index adjusters, etc., or any usual cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

[0192] Additional dispersed phase

[0193] The composition according to the application can further comprise:

[0194] - capsules comprising a shell and a core, the core comprising at least one aqueous phase, optionally the aqueous core further comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent; and / or

[0195] - macroscopic solid (or matrix-type) beads.

[0196] In the meaning of the present application, the term "bead" refers to a macroscopic element that is substantially spherical and does not contain a shell; the constituent phase can also comprise at least one active agent, in particular at least one perfuming agent.

[0197] In the context of the present application, the solid beads can indifferently be expressed as "beads", "spheres", "spherules" or "additional dispersed phase".

[0198] The composition according to the application can further comprise hydrophilic or lipophilic macroscopic solid beads.

[0199] The composition according to the application can further comprise macroscopic solid beads whose constitutive phase is a direct or inverse emulsion.

[0200] The hydrophilic macroscopic solid beads comprise water and at least one polyelectrolyte in gel state and / or at least one heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular as described above.

[0201] The lipophilic macroscopic solid beads comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent and optionally at least one oil, in particular as described above.

[0202] Such beads allow the presence in the composition according to the application of hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents that are incompatible with the other ingredients present in the composition.

[0203] As lipophilic active agents, mention can be made of those described above.

[0204] As hydrophilic active agents, mention can be made of proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, in particular C2-C10 polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starches, bacterial or plant extracts such as aloe vera extract, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] Particular embodiments

[0206] The composition according to the application can comprise a single population of capsules among the different variants of simple and complex capsules described above.

[0207] Alternatively, the composition according to the application can comprise at least two different populations of capsules chosen among the different variants of simple and complex capsules described above.

[0208] Thus, according to a first variant embodiment, the composition according to the application can comprise at least two populations of capsules with different Ri / Rc ratios, with the same or different sizes, as illustrated in Example 5 below.

[0209] According to a second variant embodiment, the composition according to the application can comprise a first population of simple capsules and a second population of complex capsules, with the same or different sizes.

[0210] Such variant embodiments can further comprise solid beads as described above.

[0211] All these variants are advantageous in that they in particular allow obtaining compositions comprising macroscopic elements of different densities and / or sizes and / or mechanical strengths, thus enabling different visual / aesthetic effects and / or cosmetic effects and / or sensory effects.

[0212] Preparation method

[0213] The preparation of the continuous aqueous phase of the composition according to the application falls within the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0214] The preparation of the capsules of the composition according to the application also falls within the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art. By way of illustration, the capsules of the composition according to the application can be obtained by non-microfluidic / microfluidic manufacturing processes such as Rayneri stirring, or microfluidic / microfluidic manufacturing processes such as those described in the following documents: WO2010063937, FR2964017, WO2012089820, WO2021037999, WO2022106361, EP2292752, EP0525731, EP1020177, EP1025842 or patent applications filed under numbers FR2314864 and FR2314873.

[0215] The preparation of the solid beads also belongs to the common general knowledge of the person skilled in the art. By way of illustration, the beads can be obtained by any method known to the person skilled in the art, such as those described in BRPI1001438 or FR2645439.

[0216] Use

[0217] Preferably, the composition according to the application can be used as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, directly after the above-mentioned preparation method.

[0218] The person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the grades of the raw materials depending on the field of use under consideration.

[0219] The composition according to the application can thus be used in particular in the cosmetics field.

[0220] In addition to the above-mentioned ingredients or compounds, they can also comprise at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

[0221] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance form in which the composition is packaged.

[0222] According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is represented directly by the continuous aqueous phase as described above.

[0223] In the context of the present application, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for cosmetic applications and in particular a medium suitable for applying the composition of the application to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the hair, more particularly the skin, unless otherwise specified.

[0224] The cosmetic composition according to the application can be a eau de toilette, a cologne, a perfume extract, a perfume spirit, a fragrance mist or a perfume.

[0225] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the application is advantageously a liquid form perfuming composition, in particular an alcohol-free perfuming composition, comprising macrocapsules intended to perfume an individual after spraying or application on the skin, the hair and / or the clothes. This product is not rinsed off after application.

[0226] The perfuming composition will thus be distinguished from the composition that is perfumed. Indeed, the cosmetic composition can be perfumed and not perfuming.

[0227] Thus, preferably, the composition according to the application is not dedicated to the care and / or makeup of keratin materials.

[0228] The application also relates to a bottle equipped with an application device and a packaging device comprising a composition as described above.

[0229] The composition according to the application is oral or topical, preferably topical.

[0230] The person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the grades of raw materials according to the field of use considered and / or the oral or topical nature considered.

[0231] The application also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process, in particular for perfuming keratin materials or clothes, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin materials and / or to the clothes at least one composition according to the application.

[0232] The application also relates to the use of at least one composition according to the application for perfuming keratin materials or clothes.

[0233] The composition will be applied / used preferably by means of a spraying device (or means).

[0234] Throughout the description, the expression "comprendre un (comprise an)" should be understood to be synonymous with "comprendre au moins un (comprise at least one)" unless otherwise stated. The expressions "compris entre... et...", "compris de... à..." and "allant de... à..." should be understood to include the end-point values, unless otherwise stated. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0235] Examples

[0236] Example 1 : Preparation of the continuous aqueous phase

[0237] The following table shows the composition of the aqueous phase, dedicated to represent the continuous aqueous phase of the compositions described in the following examples 5-7.

[0238]

[0239] * Quantité Suffisante Pour

[0240] The preservative is first dispersed in the glycols (glycerol and propylene glycol) by stirring with a paddle stirrer. The water is then added and the whole is mixed for 1 hour using a paddle stirrer.

[0241] The aqueous phase obtained is transparent and has a viscosity of less than 15 mPa.s.

[0242] Example 2: Preparation of the capsules

[0243] The following table shows the composition of simple capsules comprising a gelled alginate shell and a core of perfumed fatty phase.

[0244]

[0245] A. Preparation of the first liquid solution (IF)

[0246] The perfume and the oil are mixed and kept under stirring until homogenization.

[0247] B. Preparation of the second liquid solution (OF)

[0248] The SDS and sodium alginate are added to the water under magnetic stirring. The solution is kept under stirring for 24 hours to ensure that the alginate is completely dissolved and that the solution is homogeneous.

[0249] C. Preparation of the gelled solution

[0250] Dissolve 200 g of calcium chloride in 1000 g of water.

[0251] D. Obtaining of the capsules

[0252] The capsule manufacturing process is based on the concentric co-extrusion of two solutions, in particular as described in FR 2964017, with the flow rates described in the table below. The capsules are thus obtained according to the following steps:

[0253] - transporting the first liquid solution (IF) and the second liquid solution (OF) respectively in a nozzle in the form of a double shell;

[0254] - forming a series of drops at the outlet of the double shell, each drop comprising a central core formed from the first solution (IF) and a peripheral film formed from the second solution (OF) which completely covers the central core; the step of forming a series of drops comprises a step of forming a liquid jet at the outlet of the double shell and a step of breaking the liquid jet into drops;

[0255] - immersing each drop in a gelling solution to transform the sodium alginate of the second liquid solution (OF) from a liquid state to a gelled state and form a gelled envelope, the central core forming a liquid core, thus obtaining a capsule; and

[0256] - recovering the capsules formed.

[0257] The flow rates are as follows:

[0258]

[0259] Simple macroscopic and monodisperse capsules of size (or diameter) 800 pm are obtained.

[0260] Example 3: Preparation of the capsules

[0261] The following table shows the composition of four types of individual capsules, which differ from those described in Example 2 in terms of the gelled shell.

[0262]

[0263] The manufacturing process and the flow rates are the same as those described in Example 2. Test D differs in that (i) OF is maintained at 80°C and (ii) the gelling solution contains only oil at 10°C.

[0264] Simple macroscopic and monodisperse capsules of size (or diameter) 800 pm are obtained.

[0265] Example 4: Preparation of the capsules

[0266] According to the solutions and flow rates described below, using the patent application filed under the number FR 2314864 Figure 4The microfluidic device shown in the middle produces perfumed capsules.

[0267]

[0268] * : make up

[0269]

[0270] Simple macroscopic and monodisperse capsules having a size (or diameter) of 1200 pm were obtained.

[0271] Example 5: Influence of the volume fraction

[0272] Example 5 consists in contacting and mixing the capsules of Example 2 with the continuous aqueous phase of Example 1 in a 100 mL packaging equipped with a spray-type dispensing pump, at different "continuous aqueous phase / capsule" ratios as described below. It is noted that, prior to mixing with the continuous aqueous phase of Example 1, the capsules are previously filtered and washed with permeate water (to remove the gelling solution).

[0273] Scoring criteria:

[0274]

[0275] RT * : ambient temperature

[0276] Test and results:

[0277]

[0278] (1) φ PAC: volume fraction of the continuous aqueous phase according to Example 1, relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0279] (2) φ CAPSULE: volume fraction of the capsules of Example 2, relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0280] (3) NA: not applicable

[0281] From the above results, it can be observed that, due to the too rapid creaming of the capsules, a volume fraction of less than 50% of the capsules does not allow a satisfactory spatial suspension to be achieved. In use, a preferential dispensing of the continuous aqueous phase is observed, leading to an increase in the concentration of capsules as the product is used. Mechanically, the formulation of the dispensed composition is not homogeneous, i.e. it is mainly composed of the continuous aqueous phase at the beginning of use, then the dispersed phase becomes increasingly concentrated as use progresses. Thus, it is not possible to guarantee an accurate and constant formulation of the product delivered throughout use. This increase in the concentration of capsules even leads to clogging of the suction / delivery device after a period of time. This explains the "NA" rating for tests 3.1 and 3.2.

[0282] From a capsule volume fraction of 50%, a composition is obtained which makes it possible to ensure that the capsules are suspended in the continuous aqueous phase. Thus, an accurate and constant formulation of the product delivered is observed throughout the use of the product, and there is no obstruction or clogging at the suction / delivery device, which is particularly surprising given the high concentration of capsules.

[0283] Finally, from a capsule volume fraction of 70%, it is observed that the product becomes increasingly less flowable so as to be unable to be pumped uniformly. From a capsule volume fraction of 80%, the sprayability of the composition is significantly degraded.

[0284] It is noted that all the samples have very attractive aesthetic properties in packaging. Indeed, in these samples, the macrocapsules (and in particular the core of the capsules) are clearly visible, which is particularly easy because the continuous aqueous phase and the shell are transparent. Furthermore, it is noted that in addition to the suspension and the sprayability of the capsules, the volume fraction more or less also affects the shine properties of the composition.

[0285] Finally, it is observed that tests 3.3 to 3.5 relate to perfuming compositions which do not contain alcohol, which provide high sprayability while maintaining the stability and olfactory performance of the perfuming agents.

[0286] Similar observations are also made for capsules according to examples 3 and 4 above, in which the capsules are pre-filtered and washed with permeate water (to remove the OF, AF and / or gelling solution) before mixing with the continuous aqueous phase of example 1.

[0287] Example 6: Influence of the Ri / Rc ratio

[0288] Example 6 relates to the contact and mixing of capsules in the continuous aqueous phase described in example 1 at a volume fraction of 60% relative to the total volume of the composition. These capsules differ from example 2 in terms of flow rate, as shown in the following table.

[0289] The compositions obtained are packaged in 100 ml packages equipped with a spray-type dispensing pump.

[0290] Figure 4 The evolution of the Ri / Rc ratio and the (e) / Ri ratio of these tests 4.1 to 4.6 is illustrated.

[0291]

[0292] (4) Flow rate per nozzle (ml / hr)

[0293] (5)Ri corresponds to the radius of the capsule core; Rc corresponds to the radius of the capsule (i.e. resulting from the sum of the radius of the capsule core and the shell thickness); (e) corresponds to the shell thickness.

[0294] Scoring criteria:

[0295]

[0296] (6) Rm = mechanical strength, also called "crush strength". The principle is to exert a stress at a constant speed on the capsule and to measure the force required to break the capsule. The method for measuring this mechanical strength is particularly described in WO2015075074.

[0297] (7) The organoleptic quality is in particular manifested by the easy and comfortable application of the composition on the material to be treated, and in particular the absence of a residual film or, if a residual film is present, at least the ability (i) to have no too great an impact on the appearance of the composition applied to the material to be treated and (ii) to be easily spread and to disappear upon spreading.

[0298] Test and results :

[0299]

[0300] Test 4.1 is characterized by capsules having a very thick shell. Such capsules allow to obtain very stable compositions, but have unsatisfactory sprayability and organoleptic quality.

[0301] Test 4.6 is characterized by capsules having a very large core of fatty phase. Such capsules allow to obtain very large load of perfume compositions, but their robustness is insufficient.

[0302] Attractive results are obtained by tests 4.2 to 4.5, wherein the Ri / Rc ratio is comprised between 0.5 and 0.8. The best results are obtained by tests 4.3 and 4.5, even 4.3 and 4.4, corresponding to a Ri / Rc ratio comprised between 0.6 and 0.8, in particular between 0.6 and 0.7. These Ri / Rc ratios thus correspond to the best non-obvious compromise between mechanical strength, sprayability and organoleptic quality.

[0303] Finally, it is observed that tests 4.2 to 4.5 involve perfuming compositions free of alcohol, which provide a high sprayability, while maintaining the stability and olfactory performance of the perfuming agents.

[0304] Example 7: Composition of the application with a population of double capsules

[0305] Example 7 involves contacting and mixing capsules according to above tests 4.3 and 4.5 and according to the volume fractions described in the following table, in a continuous aqueous phase according to example 1.

[0306] However, the capsules differ from tests 4.3 and 4.5 by the addition of a colorant in the fatty phase, namely a red dye for the capsules of test 4.3 (i.e. D&C Red No. 17 K7007 (INCI: CI 26100 - 0.001%) and a blue dye for the capsules of test 4.5 (i.e. Phat Blue DC 6204 (INCI: CI 61565 / CI 60725 - 0.001%).

[0307]

[0308] The composition obtained is packaged in a 100 ml package equipped with a spray-type dispensing pump.

[0309] A cosmetic product comprising a volume fraction of capsules greater than 50% and thus capable of spatially suspending the capsules is thus obtained.

[0310] The population of double capsules of identical size but different densities gives the product a surprising visual / aesthetic effect.

[0311] Thus, under agitation, the composition behaves as a dispersion in which the red and blue capsules are mixed uniformly, giving the overall impression of a purple product (i.e. state 1).

[0312] On standing, reorganization of the capsules is observed, leading to creaming of the capsules 4.5, which are less dense, and to the sedimentation of the capsules 4.3, which are more dense (i.e. state 2). This color evolution of the composition according to the application is all the more surprising since it occurs without modifying the suspension of the capsules in the continuous aqueous phase. After a period of time, the composition shows a color gradient between the red capsules in the lower part and the blue capsules in the upper part.

[0313] Re-agitation leads to the composition returning to the form described above in state 1.

Claims

1. Composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a dispersion comprising a dispersed phase in the form of capsules and a continuous aqueous phase, characterized in that: - the capsules represent a volume fraction of 50% to 70% relative to the total volume of the composition; - the capsules comprise a shell and a core comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least one perfuming agent; and - the capsules comprise a Ri / Rc ratio of 0.5 to 0.8, preferably 0.6 to 0.8, and better still 0.6 to 0.7, wherein: - Ri corresponds to the radius of the core of the capsule; and - Rc corresponds to the radius of the capsule.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the capsules have a diameter of greater than or equal to 250 μιη, even greater than or equal to 500 μιη, in particular from 250 μιη to 3000 μιη, better still from 500 μιη to 2000 μιη, very particularly from 750 μιη to 1000 μιη.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the capsules are monodispersed.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the capsules represent a volume fraction of 55% to 65%, and preferably 57% to 63%, relative to the total volume of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the shell is: - a gelled envelope completely enveloping the core, said gelled envelope comprising at least one polyelectrolyte in the gelled state and / or at least one thermosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent; and / or - an envelope resulting from a complex coacervation reaction between two oppositely charged polymers capable of coacervation.

6. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the composition comprises from 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3%, better still from 0.75% to 1%, of polyelectrolyte and / or thermosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent and / or oppositely charged polymers capable of coacervation, relative to the total weight of the shell.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the shell further comprises at least one surfactant.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the capsule comprises a core that is liquid or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic, which is monophasic or comprises a fatty phase intermediate drop, and at least one, preferably a single, inner drop of an internal phase arranged in the intermediate drop.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30%, better still from 15% to 20%, of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20%, of perfuming agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises from 5% to 100% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90%, in particular from 25% to 80%, or even from 50% to 70%, of active agent, in particular perfuming agent, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty phase further comprises at least one oil.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the continuous aqueous phase does not comprise a carbomer.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the continuous aqueous phase is liquid and non-suspending relative to the capsule.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the continuous aqueous phase has a high shear viscosity of less than or equal to 100 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 50 mPa.s, in particular less than or equal to 25 mPa.s, better still less than or equal to 10 mPa.s, measured at 25°C and under a shear stress of 100 s -1 -1.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is sprayable, and preferably the continuous aqueous phase has a yield value of less than or equal to 1 Pa, in particular less than or equal to 0.1 Pa, in particular less than or equal to 0.01 Pa, or even no yield value.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, in particular less than 2.5%, or even no alcohol, in particular ethanol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a perfuming composition.

19. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process, in particular for perfuming keratin materials or clothing, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin materials and / or said clothing at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18.

20. Use of at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 for perfuming keratin materials or clothing.

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