Moisturizing and oil-controlling structural loose powder and preparation method thereof
By combining powders with special forms and complex structures, the contradiction between oil control and moisturizing in loose powder is resolved, achieving dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stable makeup effect, thus meeting consumers' demand for multi-functional products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202511523591.5
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-10-23
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing loose powder products present a contradiction in terms of oil control and moisturizing, making it difficult to achieve long-lasting and stable makeup setting without affecting skin health. Furthermore, traditional powders are prone to falling off due to friction, failing to meet consumers' demand for multi-functional products.
The powder combination, which employs a special form and compound structure, includes ingredients such as lauroyl lysine, silica, modified mica powder, and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane sesquioxane cross-linked polymer. Through structural design and synergistic effects of active substances, it forms a dynamic skin-adhering and long-lasting stable makeup effect.
It achieves a balance between oil control and moisturizing, provides a dynamic skin-adhering effect, enhances the longevity and stability of makeup, reduces powder shedding and caking, and improves user comfort.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and more particularly to a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] Loose powder is a core product in the field of makeup setting. Conventional loose powders are mostly physically blended, relying on the physical adsorption properties and optical modifying effects of their powder ingredients (such as silica and mica) to both absorb excess oil from the skin to prolong makeup wear time and to conceal pores and even out skin tone through light scattering, becoming key to enhancing the refinement of makeup. However, existing loose powder products have significant limitations in functional synergy and structural design, making it difficult to meet consumers' demand for "multi-functional" products.
[0003] Traditional loose powders rely on a high proportion of porous powders (such as ordinary silica) to enhance oil control. While these ingredients can absorb oil, they also remove moisture from the stratum corneum, leading to tightness and peeling, which is especially unfriendly to dry or sensitive skin. If moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are added, the powder's hygroscopic properties can cause clumping, compromising the powder's fluidity and setting effect, creating a dilemma of "oil control inevitably leads to dryness, and moisturizing inevitably leads to clumping."
[0004] In addition, traditional loose powders often use a simple mixture of single-form powders, lacking a targeted structural design: on the one hand, they cannot build a stable three-dimensional protective network, and the powder is prone to accumulating in fine lines and forming caking as facial expressions move; on the other hand, the bonding force between powders is weak, and they are easy to fall off after friction, resulting in patchy makeup in the later stages of makeup wear. They cannot maintain the soft-focus concealing effect for a long time, and they are also difficult to resist the damage of the external environment to the makeup.
[0005] Therefore, achieving a balance between oil control and moisturizing with loose powder, and ensuring that loose powder can dynamically adhere to the skin and maintain long-term stability, are core issues that the industry urgently needs to address. Summary of the Invention
[0006] This application provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder and its preparation method. The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder provided by this application can achieve a balance between oil control and moisturizing, and can achieve dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stability.
[0007] Structured loose powder is a type of loose powder that uses the special shape, arrangement, or compound structure of powder particles to achieve additional functions beyond setting makeup (such as minimizing pores, controlling oil, and improving skin texture). It differs from traditional loose powders that only absorb oil and set makeup. Its core lies in using "structural design" to solve makeup pain points, making the makeup more refined and long-lasting.
[0008] Firstly, this application provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder, employing the following technical solution: A moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts lauroyl lysine; 40-80 parts silica; 20-50 parts modified mica powder; 1-10 parts vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane sesquisiloxane crosspolymer; 0.01-0.3 parts CI 73360; 0.01-0.05 parts xanthan gum; 0.5-3 parts glycerin; 0.01-0.05 parts hyaluronic acid; 0.1-1 parts hydrogenated lecithin; 0.1-1 parts polyvinylpyrrolidone; 0.8-1.2 parts a mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin; 0.5-1 part polysorbate 80; 0.5-3 parts plant squalane; 90-95 parts water; 0.001-0.1 parts acetyl hexapeptide-8; and asiaticoside-II. 0.1-1 part; Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate 0.5-2.5 parts.
[0009] Lauroyl lysine is a skin-feel modifier, a derivative of the amino acid (lysine) and lauric acid, belonging to naturally derived surfactants. It is a white powder with excellent lubricity, low irritation, and compatibility with the amino acid structure of the skin's stratum corneum, resulting in strong skin adhesion. It improves the "skin feel" of loose powder—reducing the dryness of the powder and giving it a "silky" feel during application—while enhancing the powder's adhesion to the skin surface and preventing fallout.
[0010] Silica is used as a filler, consisting of porous silica microspheres (refer to the characteristics of the UNI-Sil series). It possesses a high specific surface area, excellent oil absorption and dispersibility, uniform particle size, and strong chemical stability (it does not react with other ingredients). Silica is the "core filler base" of loose powder—occupying a major proportion of the formula, it fills pores and smooths skin texture; simultaneously, it absorbs sebum secreted by the skin, prolonging makeup setting time and preventing oily makeup.
[0011] Modified mica powder is a composite powder, with mica (96%) as the main component and surface modified by lauroyl lysine (4%). Mica itself has a delicate pearlescent texture and good coverage. After modification with lauroyl lysine, it has a smoother feel, stronger adhesion, and uniform particle size (model UNI-MICA 1250LL, where 1250 mesh corresponds to a particle size of about 10-15μm, which is a fine powder). It has the dual functions of "coloring / coverage" and "skin feel adjustment" - mica provides basic skin tone correction and a slight pearlescent effect, improving the transparency of makeup; lauroyl lysine further optimizes the application feel and avoids the roughness of mica powder.
[0012] Vinyl dimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinking polymer belongs to the siloxane crosslinking polymer family. It is a porous, elastic powder with high lightness (low density, not heavy), good elasticity, and certain oil absorption and water resistance. It also has excellent compatibility with other powders. It can improve the "lightweight feel" and "long-lasting makeup" of loose powder—as an auxiliary filler, it reduces the heaviness of silica / mica, making the makeup more adherent and less prone to caking; at the same time, it forms a slight elastic film on the skin surface, enhancing waterproof and sweatproof capabilities and prolonging the makeup's staying power.
[0013] CI 73360 is an organic red pigment, with CI (Color Index) number 73360, corresponding to the common name "Pigment Red 170". It has a soft color (leaning towards a warm red), good lightfastness (not easy to fade), excellent dispersibility in powder, no obvious graininess, and can adjust the "skin tone compatibility" of loose powder - a small amount can be added to neutralize the yellow undertones of the skin tone, giving the makeup a natural "good complexion", avoiding the problem of loose powder turning gray or white, and adapting to the needs of natural makeup effect.
[0014] Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide thickener produced by microbial (Xanthomonas) fermentation. It has good water solubility and can significantly increase the viscosity of the system with a low addition amount (0.1% is enough to thicken). It is also resistant to acids and alkalis, high temperatures, and has strong compatibility with other ingredients. Adding a small amount can prevent powder sedimentation and oil-water separation in the formula and maintain the stability of the system. At the same time, the viscous texture formed can reduce water evaporation and indirectly enhance the moisturizing effect.
[0015] Glycerin is a classic small-molecule moisturizer with a wide range of sources (plant extracts or synthesis). Glycerin is highly water-soluble and can absorb moisture from the air (hygroscopic moisturizing) while forming a moisturizing film on the skin surface (occlusive moisturizing). It is low in cost and highly safe. Glycerin works synergistically with squalane and hyaluronic acid to enhance the overall moisturizing ability of loose powder, prevent the powder from clumping due to moisture loss, and reduce the tightness of the skin after use.
[0016] Hyaluronic acid is a low-pH polysaccharide (typically 1-2 million Da in molecular weight) with extremely strong water-absorbing capacity (1g can absorb 1000g of water). It forms a moisturizing film on the skin surface and is non-irritating, making it suitable for all skin types. Hyaluronic acid provides long-lasting hydration. Synergistically, when combined with glycerin (small molecules), the large hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the skin surface, reducing moisture loss and leaving the skin radiant and hydrated, preventing a "mask-like" appearance caused by loose powder.
[0017] Hydrogenated lecithin is a hydrogenated product of lecithin (more stable and less prone to oxidation). It possesses both surface activity and skin compatibility, forming a lipid film to repair the skin barrier and improve powder dispersibility and skin feel. Hydrogenated lecithin has dual functions: ① Skin feel adjustment: making loose powder more "silky and adherent" to the skin, reducing the grainy feel; ② Barrier repair: assisting squalane in replenishing skin lipids, making it especially suitable for dry skin.
[0018] Polyvinylpyrrolidone is highly water-soluble and has strong film-forming properties (it forms a transparent and flexible film after drying). It also has good adhesion to the skin and is non-irritating. It can enhance the longevity of makeup setting. After application, it forms a thin film on the skin surface, "fixing" the powder to the skin surface and reducing makeup smudging and fallout. At the same time, the film is transparent and does not affect the texture of the makeup.
[0019] The mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin (model name UltraCare EHC) is a binary compound ingredient, composed of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin in a specific ratio. It combines moisturizing, antibacterial, and solvent properties, is low in irritation (suitable for sensitive skin), and enhances the solubility of other ingredients. UltraCare EHC has dual functions: ① Moisturizing: Forms a moisturizing film on the skin surface, reducing dryness after applying loose powder; ② Preservative aid: Enhances system stability and inhibits microbial growth (replacing some traditional preservatives, reducing irritation).
[0020] Polysorbate-80 is a nonionic surfactant, produced by esterification of sorbitol and oleic acid followed by polymerization with ethylene oxide. It exhibits good water solubility, reduces oil-water interfacial tension, and possesses good dispersibility and compatibility, while also being low in irritation. Furthermore, it addresses the issue of powder dispersibility—for loose powders containing solids such as silica and mica, polysorbate-80 helps the powder disperse uniformly in the aqueous phase, preventing clumping. It also assists in emulsifying oil phase components such as squalane, making the system more stable.
[0021] Plant-based squalane, as a skin conditioning agent, is a hydrogenated product of squalene (more stable and less prone to oxidation). It is highly similar to the composition of human sebum (sebum contains about 10% squalene), has good permeability and strong moisturizing properties, and is non-greasy. It can repair the skin barrier and improve the "dryness problem" of loose powder. Traditional loose powder tends to cause dry skin, but squalane can penetrate into the stratum corneum to replenish lipids, maintain skin hydration, and make the powder smoother when applied without settling into lines.
[0022] Water, as a "solvent and carrier" in the formulation, is non-irritating and can dissolve or disperse water-soluble ingredients (such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and xanthan gum). Water is the foundation of the formulation system, making up the largest proportion. It serves as the dissolving carrier for all water-soluble ingredients (humectants, emulsifiers, and active ingredients), while also providing basic hydration and preventing the powder from becoming too dry.
[0023] Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic hexapeptide (composed of 6 amino acids) with a "botox-like" mechanism of action (it reduces neurotransmitter release rather than inhibits nerves). It is highly safe, easily absorbed, and non-irritating. It has anti-wrinkle and repairing effects. As an active ingredient in loose powder, long-term use can reduce dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle contraction (such as forehead wrinkles and crow's feet), upgrading loose powder from a "makeup setting tool" to "makeup with repairing functions."
[0024] Asiaticoside II is a complex active ingredient, with its main component being Asiaticoside II (the core active ingredient of Centella asiatica extract), supplemented by cyclodextrin (primarily β-cyclodextrin) as an encapsulating agent. Cyclodextrin enhances the stability of Asiaticoside II (preventing oxidative degradation) and its skin permeability, while Asiaticoside II promotes collagen synthesis, repairs the skin barrier, and provides anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. For skin irritation that may occur after makeup application (such as from powder friction), Asiaticoside II can soothe redness and repair the skin barrier; long-term use can also improve skin elasticity and reduce makeup settling (caused by dry skin or a damaged skin barrier).
[0025] In this application, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, and hydrogenated lecithin are used in combination, which effectively increases the dispersion uniformity of hydrogenated lecithin. Simultaneously, xanthan gum, after dehydration, possesses a certain structural strength, increasing the binding force between powder particles. This application utilizes the water-absorbing properties of glycerin to keep water-soluble components such as hydrogenated lecithin, xanthan gum, and polyvinylpyrrolidone in a slightly wetted state, greatly enhancing the powder's water absorption and rehydration properties during makeup setting, resulting in a quick-adhering makeup effect, allowing the active ingredients to exert their effects immediately.
[0026] In this application, lauroyl lysine, silica, modified mica powder, and CI 73360 are uniformly mixed in a solution with low shear force and under vacuum. After low-temperature curing to lock in the structure, a structured powder is formed under vacuum drying. The spherical powder improves the flowability of the flake powder, and the flake powder improves the skin adhesion of the spherical powder. At the same time, it also creates an adsorption space for active ingredients.
[0027] This application further utilizes microbial metabolites to simultaneously regulate sebum secretion and stratum corneum water retention. The short-chain fatty acids (such as lactic acid and acetic acid) contained in the fermentation lysate of *Lactobacillus paracasei* can inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase in sebaceous gland cells, reducing sebum synthesis, and can also inhibit the proliferation of *Propionibacterium acnes*, preventing pore blockage caused by sebum oxidation. Furthermore, its rich content of small molecule peptides (molecular weight <1000 Da) and polysaccharides can penetrate into the stratum corneum and form a "hydration network" with hyaluronic acid, increasing the stratum corneum's water content, while simultaneously promoting ceramide synthesis and enhancing the barrier's water-locking ability.
[0028] Optionally, the weight of the Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate is 1-2 parts.
[0029] In one specific embodiment, the weight parts of the Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate are 0.5 parts, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, and 2.5 parts.
[0030] In some specific embodiments, the weight parts of the Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate are 0.5-1 parts, 0.5-1.5 parts, 0.5-2 parts, 1-1.5 parts, 1-2 parts, 1-2.5 parts, 1.5-2 parts, 1.5-2.5 parts, and 2-2.5 parts.
[0031] Optionally, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes Moringa oleifera seed extract, wherein the Moringa oleifera seed extract is present in 2-4 parts by weight.
[0032] Optionally, the Moringa oleifera seed extract is present in 2.5-3.5 parts by weight.
[0033] In one specific embodiment, the winged Moringa seed extract is in the following weight parts: 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, and 4 parts.
[0034] In some specific embodiments, the weight parts of the Moringa oleifera seed extract are 2-2.5 parts, 2-3 parts, 2-3.5 parts, 2.5-3 parts, 2.5-3.5 parts, 2.5-4 parts, 3-3.5 parts, 3-4 parts, and 3.5-4 parts.
[0035] This application further upgrades the traditional single oil-absorbing function of silica, endowing the powder with the characteristics of "selectively absorbing oil + retaining moisture," while improving the smoothness of dynamic skin application. Moringin in Moringa seed extract is a natural surfactant that can form a "hydrophobic complex" with oil, which is directionally adsorbed through the porous structure of silica, and its volume only expands by 10% after absorbing oil (compared to 30% expansion of ordinary silica, which is prone to clumping), thus avoiding powder accumulation. At the same time, it contains arabinogalactan, which has strong hydrophilicity and can form a breathable water film on the skin surface. In synergy with hyaluronic acid in the base formula, it reduces the absorption of moisture from the stratum corneum by the powder, avoiding a tight feeling. In addition, its waxy components can reduce the coefficient of friction between powders (from 0.4 to 0.2), allowing the loose powder to flow with the skin texture when applied, reducing powder caking at expression lines, and enhancing adhesion to the skin.
[0036] This application utilizes Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate to regulate sebum and Moringa oleifera seed extract to target oil absorption, thereby achieving a balance between oil control and moisturizing.
[0037] Optionally, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder further includes temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres, wherein the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are present in an amount of 2.5-4.5 parts by weight.
[0038] Optionally, the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are present in 3-4 parts by weight.
[0039] In one specific embodiment, the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are present in weight proportions of 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, 4 parts, and 4.5 parts.
[0040] In some specific embodiments, the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are present in weight proportions of 2.5-3 parts, 2.5-3.5 parts, 2.5-4 parts, 3-3.5 parts, 3-4 parts, 3-4.5 parts, 3.5-4 parts, 3.5-4.5 parts, and 4-4.5 parts.
[0041] This application breaks through the limitations of traditional powder's "static fixation," adjusting its shape according to skin temperature (32-37℃) to achieve dynamic adhesion through "thermal contraction and cold expansion," solving the problems of makeup smudging and caking caused by facial expressions. PNIPAM microspheres (5-8μm in diameter) expand below 32℃ (e.g., room temperature), ensuring the powder's fluidity; upon contact with the skin (above 32℃), they rapidly shrink to 60% of their original volume, filling in depressions such as crow's feet and nasolabial folds, preventing powder accumulation and achieving temperature response. The shrunken microspheres can form an "interlocking structure" with polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), whose film-forming properties fix the microspheres to the skin surface, reducing powder loss due to friction (powder residue rate increases by 35% after 6 hours of wear), thus achieving long-lasting stability. The hydroxyl groups modified on the microsphere surface can combine with hyaluronic acid and Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate to form a "moisturizing-adhesive" composite layer, preventing moisture loss from the skin during temperature response, thus achieving moisturizing compatibility.
[0042] This application utilizes temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres to shrink and fill fine lines, combined with Moringa seed extract to reduce the coefficient of friction, thereby achieving dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stability.
[0043] Secondly, this application provides a method for preparing a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder, using the following technical solution: A method for preparing a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder, the preparation method specifically including the following steps: (1) Lauroyl lysine, silica, modified mica powder, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinking polymer, and CI 73360 are mixed at low speed and recorded as the powder phase; (2) Mix water, xanthan gum, glycerol, hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated lecithin, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate evenly, heat to 70-80℃, homogenize at 2000-3000r for 2-3min, and record as the aqueous phase; (3) Mix the mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin, polysorbate-80, and plant squalane evenly and record it as the oil phase; (4) Stir and mix the aqueous phase and the oil phase, homogenize at 2000-4000r for 3-5min, and cool to room temperature; add acetyl hexapeptide-8 and asiaticoside-II, homogenize at 2000-4000r for 1-3min, and record as emulsion; (5) Mix the powder phase and the emulsion at low speed, vacuum degassing + air intake balancing, repeat 2-3 times to obtain the material; (6) The material is rapidly frozen in an environment of (-40)~(-60)℃, then freeze-sublimation and drying for 8-12h, and desorption and drying for 8-12h to obtain the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder product.
[0044] In this application, repeated vacuum degassing and air intake balancing can effectively remove air from the inside of the powder, while using atmospheric pressure difference to force the active and functional ingredients dispersed in the emulsion into the inside of the powder, thereby achieving the purpose of structural construction.
[0045] Optionally, the mixing ratio of the powder phase 1 and the emulsion 1 is 1:(1-2).
[0046] Optionally, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes Moringa oleifera seed extract, wherein the Moringa oleifera seed extract is present in 2-4 parts by weight; the Moringa oleifera seed extract is added during the preparation of the aqueous phase.
[0047] Optionally, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder further includes temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres, wherein the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are 2.5-4.5 parts by weight; the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are added during the powder preparation step.
[0048] In summary, this application includes at least one of the following beneficial technical effects: The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder provided in this application can achieve a balance between oil control and moisturizing, and can achieve dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stability.
[0049] This application incorporates Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate, Moringa oleifera seed extract, and temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres into the loose powder components. The Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate regulates sebum, while the Moringa oleifera seed extract targets oil absorption, thus achieving a balance between oil control and moisturizing. The temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres shrink and fill fine lines, while the Moringa oleifera seed extract reduces the coefficient of friction, resulting in dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stability.
[0050] The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder provided in this application not only fills a market gap, but also meets consumers' comprehensive needs for long-lasting makeup setting, comfortable skin feel, and exquisite makeup effect. Detailed Implementation
[0051] Before describing the embodiments of this application in detail, it should be understood that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing a particular embodiment only. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the term pertains.
[0052] It should be noted that the terms "first" and "second" are used for descriptive purposes only and should not be construed as indicating or implying relative importance or implicitly specifying the number of technical features indicated. Therefore, a feature defined as "first" or "second" may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of that feature. Furthermore, in the description of this application, unless otherwise stated, "multiple" means two or more.
[0053] The endpoints and any values of the ranges disclosed in this application are not limited to the precise ranges or values, and such ranges or values should be understood to include values close to such ranges or values. For numerical ranges, the endpoint values of the various ranges, the endpoint values of the various ranges and individual point values, and individual point values can be combined with each other to obtain one or more new numerical ranges, which should be considered as specifically disclosed herein.
[0054] In this application, the terms "comprising" or "including" are open-ended expressions, meaning they include the content specified in this application but do not exclude other aspects.
[0055] This application provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder.
[0056] This moisturizing and oil-controlling loose powder comprises the following components by weight: 1-5 parts lauroyl lysine; 40-80 parts silica; 20-50 parts modified mica powder; 1-10 parts vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane sesquisiloxane crosspolymer; 0.01-0.3 parts CI 73360; 0.01-0.05 parts xanthan gum; 0.5-3 parts glycerin; 0.01-0.05 parts hyaluronic acid; 0.1-1 parts hydrogenated lecithin; 0.1-1 parts polyvinylpyrrolidone; 0.8-1.2 parts of a mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin; 0.5-1 part polysorbate 80; 0.5-3 parts plant squalane; 90-95 parts water; 0.001-0.1 parts acetyl hexapeptide-8; and asiaticoside-II. 0.1-1 part; Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate 0.5-2.5 parts.
[0057] Furthermore, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes Moringa oleifera seed extract, wherein the Moringa oleifera seed extract comprises 2-4 parts by weight.
[0058] Furthermore, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres, wherein the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are present in an amount of 2.5-4.5 parts by weight.
[0059] This application provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder, specifically including the following steps: (1) Lauroyl lysine, silica, modified mica powder, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinking polymer, and CI 73360 are mixed at low speed and recorded as the powder phase; (2) Mix water, xanthan gum, glycerol, hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated lecithin, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate evenly, heat to 70-80℃, homogenize at 2000-3000r for 2-3min, and record as the aqueous phase; (3) Mix the mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin, polysorbate-80, and plant squalane evenly and record it as the oil phase; (4) Stir and mix the aqueous phase and the oil phase, homogenize at 2000-4000r for 3-5min, and cool to room temperature; add acetyl hexapeptide-8 and asiaticoside-II, homogenize at 2000-4000r for 1-3min, and record as emulsion; (5) Mix the powder phase and the emulsion at low speed, vacuum degassing + air intake balancing, repeat 2-3 times to obtain the material; (6) The material is rapidly frozen in an environment of (-40)~(-60)℃, then freeze-sublimation and drying for 8-12h, and desorption and drying for 8-12h to obtain the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder product.
[0060] Furthermore, the mixing ratio of powder phase 1 and emulsion 1 is 1:(1-2).
[0061] Furthermore, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes Moringa oleifera seed extract, which is added during the preparation of the aqueous phase.
[0062] Furthermore, the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres, which are added during the powder preparation step.
[0063] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of this application clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of this application will be clearly and completely described below. All other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of this application without inventive effort are within the scope of protection of this application. The embodiments described below are exemplary and are only used to explain this application, and should not be construed as limiting this application.
[0064] Where specific techniques or conditions are not specified in the examples, they shall be performed in accordance with the techniques or conditions described in the literature in this field or in accordance with the product instructions. Reagents or instruments whose manufacturers are not specified are all commercially available conventional products.
[0065] In the following examples, lauroyl lysine was purchased from Suzhou Senfida Chemical Co., Ltd., with a purity of 99%; silica was purchased from JIER (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd., and was porous silica microspheres, model UNI-Sil 60, with a purity >99.999%; modified mica powder was purchased from Toyo Sericite Co., Ltd. of Japan, model UNI-MICA 1250LL, with a purity of 96%; vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinking polymer was purchased from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. of Japan, model KSP-101; the chemical name of CI 73360 is (E)-6,6'-dichloro-4,4'-dimethyl-3H,3'H-(2,2'-biphenyl(b)thiophenylene)-3,3'-dione, CAS number 2379-74-0; xanthan gum was purchased from Spico International (CP) of the United States. Kelco (product name: KELTROL® CG-T); Glycerin (product name: GLYCERINE USP 99.5 PCT MIN); Hyaluronic acid (product name: HA-TLM20-40); Hydrogenated lecithin (product name: Soya SPL 75H); Polyvinylpyrrolidone (product name: PVP K-30 powder); A mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin (product name: UltraCare EHC); Polysorbate 80 (product name: SPTWEEN 80) was purchased from Croda Ltd., UK. MBAL-LQ-(SG); plant squalane was purchased from Wuhan Pushida Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with a purity of 96%; water was ultrapure water; acetyl hexapeptide-8 was purchased from Shandong Jitai Biotechnology Co., Ltd., model number JTBiotech-AntiW068; asiaticoside-II was purchased from Shanghai Jiakai Biotechnology Co., Ltd., model number Redumatte® ASC-II, which is a compound of cyclodextrin and centella asiatica extract.
[0066] Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate was purchased from Wuhan Healthdream Biological Technology Co., Ltd., product name: Lactobacillus Fermented Lysate Complex Liquid. The active ingredients include short-chain fatty acids (lactic acid ≥15%), small molecule peptides (molecular weight <1000Da), and polysaccharides (≥10%). It is a liquid (solid content 20%) with a pH of 4.5-5.5 and can be directly dispersed in aqueous systems.
[0067] The Moringa Pterygosperma seed extract was purchased from Yunnan LvA Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and its product name is Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract 30%. The active ingredients are Moringin ≥30% and arabinogalactan ≥25%. It is a powder with a particle size D50=15μm and a specific surface area ≥200m² / g.
[0068] The temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres were purchased from Xi'an Ruixi Biotechnology Co., Ltd., model PNIPAM-MSNs (poly(N-isopropylacrylamide-mesoporous silica composite microspheres), with a particle size distribution of 5-8 μm (DLS detection) and a pore size of 10-15 nm (BET method).
[0069] The present application will be further described in detail below with reference to the embodiments and test results.
[0070] Example
[0071] This embodiment provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder.
[0072] The preparation method of the above-mentioned moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder specifically includes the following steps: (1) Lauroyl lysine, silica, modified mica powder, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinking polymer, and CI 73360 are mixed at low speed and recorded as the powder phase; (2) Mix water, xanthan gum, glycerol, hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated lecithin, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate evenly, heat to 75°C, homogenize at 2500r for 3min, and record as the aqueous phase; (3) Mix the mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin, polysorbate-80, and plant squalane evenly and record it as the oil phase; (4) Stir and mix the aqueous phase and the oil phase, homogenize at 3000r for 3min, and cool to room temperature; add acetyl hexapeptide-8 and asiaticoside-II, homogenize at 3000r for 3min, and record as emulsion; (5) Mix the powder phase and the emulsion at low speed, vacuum degassing + air intake balancing, repeat 3 times to obtain the material; (6) The material is placed in a -50℃ environment for rapid freezing, then freeze-sublimation drying for 10h, and desorption drying for 10h to obtain the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder product.
[0073] Table 1. Some components and proportions of the loose powder in Example 1 (Part 1)
[0074] Table 2. Some components and proportions of the loose powder in each embodiment and comparative example (II)
[0075] Examples 2-5 This embodiment provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder. The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 1 lies in the amount of *Lactobacillus paracasei* fermentation lysate added, as shown in Table 2. All other operating steps remain consistent with Embodiment 1.
[0076] Example 6 This embodiment provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder. The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 3 is that, based on Embodiment 3, Moringa oleifera seed extract was added. The specific amount added is shown in Table 2, specifically, the Moringa oleifera seed extract was added during the preparation of the aqueous phase. All other operational steps remained consistent with Embodiment 3.
[0077] Examples 7-10 This embodiment provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder. The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 6 lies in the amount of Moringa seed extract added, as shown in Table 2. All other operating steps remain the same as in Embodiment 6.
[0078] Example 11 This embodiment provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder. The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 8 is that, based on Embodiment 8, temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are added. The specific amount added is shown in Table 2, specifically, the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are added during the powder preparation step. All other operating steps remain consistent with Embodiment 8.
[0079] Examples 12-15 This embodiment provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder. The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 11 lies in the amount of temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres added, as shown in Table 2. All other operating steps remain the same as in Embodiment 11.
[0080] Comparative Example 1 This comparative example provides a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder. The difference between this comparative example and Example 3 is that no *Lactobacillus paracasei* fermentation lysate was added. All other operating steps are consistent with Example 3.
[0081] Performance testing The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powders provided in the above embodiments and comparative examples were tested as follows.
[0082] (a) Experimental Design 160 participants (aged 25-35, with a baseline sebum level of 30-40 μg / cm² in the T-zone, and who did not use skincare products for 24 hours prior to the test to avoid interference) were selected and divided into 16 groups (each using the loose powder from Examples 1-15 and Comparative Example 1, respectively), with 10 participants in each group (aged 25-35, 5 with combination skin and 5 with oily skin, excluding those with sensitive skin); the test environment was a constant temperature of 25℃ and a constant humidity of 50% (simulating a normal indoor environment). Application standard: Apply each set of loose powder evenly to the T-zone and cheeks of the face using the same powder puff (1.5g / time), and massage for 30 seconds.
[0083] Testing time points: oil control / moisturizing (0h, 3h, 6h, 8h); dynamic skin application (0h, 3h, 6h, 8h); long-lasting stability (12h). Each indicator was tested three times, and the average value was taken (standard deviation must be <5%, otherwise retesting is required), meeting the statistical significance requirement (P < 0.05).
[0084] (ii) Oil control / moisturizing test (1) Oil control capability 1) Decrease in sebum secretion in the T-zone (8 hours) The sebum secretion of the test subjects at 0h (before using loose powder) and 8h was measured using a Sebumeter SM 810 (ISO 18250) sebum meter, and the decrease was calculated using the following formula: Sebum secretion decrease = (0h sebum secretion - 8h sebum secretion) / 0h sebum secretion × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 3.
[0085] 2) In vitro oil adsorption rate 0.5g of loose powder was mixed with 2g of simulated sebum and centrifuged at 3000r / min for 30min. The adsorption rate was calculated. The calculation formula is as follows: In vitro sebum adsorption rate = (total weight of loose powder and simulated sebum after adsorption - initial weight of loose powder) / amount of simulated sebum added × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 3.
[0086] Table 3 Oil control / moisturizing test results
[0087] (2) Moisturizing ability - Decrease in skin moisture content on the cheeks (8h) The skin moisture content of the test subjects was measured at 0h (before applying loose powder) and 8h using a skin moisture meter (Corneometer CM 825), and the decrease was calculated using the following formula: Skin moisture content decrease = (0h skin moisture content - 8h skin moisture content) / 0h skin moisture content × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 3.
[0088] (3) Balance The formula for calculating the balance is as follows: Balance = Decrease in sebum secretion in the T-zone (8h) / Decrease in skin moisture content on the cheeks (8h). If the ratio is close to 1, it indicates a better balance between oil control and moisturizing abilities; if the ratio is <0.5, it indicates excessive moisturizing and oil production. The test results are shown in Table 3.
[0089] As shown in Table 3, compared with the loose powder of Comparative Example 1 (balance degree < 0.5, indicating that the loose powder has weak oil control and poor moisturizing), the scheme of adding Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate in this application can effectively improve the oil control and moisturizing ability of the loose powder, and the balance degree is close to 1, indicating that oil control and moisturizing are synergistic.
[0090] Meanwhile, the formulation in this application, which includes Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate and Moringa oleifera seed extract, can control oil at its source and further lock in moisture, resulting in a balanced and stronger oil control without causing dryness. Furthermore, this application also incorporates Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate, Moringa oleifera seed extract, and temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres. The PNIPAM microspheres, upon shrinking, can lock in adsorbed sebum, preventing secondary oiliness. Simultaneously, the PNIPAM microspheres encapsulate moisturizing ingredients for slow release, providing long-lasting hydration and effectively controlling oil while ensuring ample moisturization.
[0091] (III) Dynamic Adhesion Testing (1) Height of expression line powder accumulation The maximum height (μm) of powder buildup at the crow's feet area of the test subjects was measured using the PRIMOS (ASTM E1865) skin contour analyzer after 8 hours of powder application. The results are shown in Table 4.
[0092] (2) Powder dynamic migration distance The loose powder was labeled with sodium fluorescein using a fluorescent labeling method. After application, the maximum distance of powder migration (mm / 8h) was recorded using a fluorescence imaging system (IVIS Lumina). The detection results are shown in Table 4.
[0093] (3) Powder-skin adhesion Using an Instron 5967 universal tensile testing machine, the probe was used to vertically peel powder from the skin surface of the test subject after 8 hours of application of loose powder, and the maximum peel force (simulating daily friction, N / cm²) was recorded. The test results are shown in Table 4.
[0094] Table 4 Dynamic Adhesion Test Results
[0095] As shown in Table 4, compared with the loose powder in Comparative Example 1, the method of adding Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate in this application can effectively reduce the powder accumulation height and dynamic migration distance of expression lines, and improve the powder-skin adhesion, indicating that the technical solution of this application has a better dynamic skin-adhesion effect.
[0096] Meanwhile, the addition of Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate and Moringa oleifera seed extract in this application can further reduce the powder accumulation height and dynamic migration distance of expression lines, and improve the powder-skin adhesion, indicating that the technical solution of this application has a better dynamic skin-adhesion effect.
[0097] Furthermore, the present application incorporates Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate, Moringa oleifera seed extract, and temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres, which can further reduce the powder accumulation height and dynamic migration distance of expression lines, and improve the powder-skin adhesion, indicating that the technical solution of the present application has excellent dynamic skin-adhesion effect.
[0098] (iv) Long-term stability testing (1) Facial powder residue rate after 12 hours Using a precise weighing method, the initial amount applied was weighed using an electronic balance (accuracy 0.0001g). After 12 hours, residual powder was collected and weighed using a special makeup remover. The residue rate was calculated as (residual amount / initial amount) × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 5.
[0099] (2) In vitro powder agglomeration rate The particle size distribution of the powder was measured after 12 hours using a laser particle size analyzer (Malvern Mastersizer 3000), and the proportion of particles >100μm (agglomerated particles) was calculated. The results are shown in Table 5.
[0100] (3) Change in L value of makeup The L value was measured using a colorimeter (Konica Minolta CR-400), with ΔL* = 12h L value - 0h L value (the closer ΔL* is to 0, the lighter the darkening). The test results are shown in Table 5.
[0101] Table 5. Results of Long-Term Stability Testing
[0102] As shown in Table 5, compared with the loose powder of Comparative Example 1 (which is prone to makeup fading, with only 30.4% remaining after 8 hours), the method of adding Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate in this application can reduce makeup fading and has a certain long-term stable effect.
[0103] The formulation in this application, which adds Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate and Moringa oleifera seed extract, makes the loose powder less prone to clumping and falling off, increasing the residue rate to over 53.8%, further reducing makeup fading, and providing a better long-lasting and stable effect.
[0104] Furthermore, this application incorporates a solution that simultaneously adds Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate, Moringa oleifera seed extract, and temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres. This enhances PNIPAM film formation and powder retention, improves adhesion, and increases the residue rate to 72.4%, effectively reducing makeup fading and providing better long-lasting stability.
[0105] In summary, the solution in Comparative Example 1 only provides basic makeup setting, with weak oil control, poor moisturizing, severe caking, and short-lasting makeup, failing to meet the requirements of "balance + dynamic effect + long-lasting effect." The solution in this application, which includes *Lactobacillus paracasei* fermentation lysate, can improve the water-oil microecology, balance oil control and moisturizing, and has a certain degree of dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stability. Furthermore, the solution in this application, which includes *Lactobacillus paracasei* fermentation lysate and *Moringa oleifera* seed extract, achieves the required oil control and moisturizing balance, and also exhibits good dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stability. This application incorporates Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate, Moringa oleifera seed extract, and temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres to achieve a powerful balance of oil control and moisturizing (resulting in a reduction of over 58.2% in sebum secretion and a reduction of less than 27.4% in skin moisture content), dynamic skin adhesion without caking (further reducing the height of powder accumulation in expression lines and the dynamic migration distance of powder, thus improving powder-skin adhesion), and long-lasting stability (with a powder residue rate of over 72.4% and no darkening). The synergistic effect of these three ingredients is significant, effectively achieving a balance between oil control and moisturizing, and providing dynamic skin adhesion and long-lasting stability.
[0106] In the description of this specification, the references to terms such as "one embodiment," "some embodiments," "example," "specific example," or "some examples," etc., indicate that a specific feature, structure, material, or characteristic described in connection with that embodiment or example is included in at least one embodiment or example of this application. In this specification, the illustrative expressions of the above terms do not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Furthermore, the specific features, structures, materials, or characteristics described may be combined in any suitable manner in one or more embodiments or examples. Moreover, without contradiction, those skilled in the art can combine and integrate the different embodiments or examples described in this specification, as well as the features of different embodiments or examples.
[0107] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of this application, and are not intended to limit them. Although this application has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that modifications can still be made to the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments, or equivalent substitutions can be made to some of the technical features. Such modifications or substitutions do not cause the essence of the corresponding technical solutions to deviate from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of this application.
Claims
1. A moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder, characterized in that, The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts lauroyl lysine; 40-80 parts silica; 20-50 parts modified mica powder; 1-10 parts vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane sesquisiloxane crosspolymer; 0.01-0.3 parts CI 73360; 0.01-0.05 parts xanthan gum; 0.5-3 parts glycerin; 0.01-0.05 parts hyaluronic acid; 0.1-1 parts hydrogenated lecithin; 0.1-1 parts polyvinylpyrrolidone; 0.8-1.2 parts of a mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin; 0.5-1 part polysorbate 80; 0.5-3 parts plant squalane; 90-95 parts water; 0.001-0.1 parts acetyl hexapeptide-8; and asiaticoside-II. 0.1-1 part; Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate 0.5-2.5 parts.
2. The moisturizing and oil-controlling structural loose powder according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight of the Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate is 1-2 parts.
3. The moisturizing and oil-controlling structural loose powder according to claim 1, characterized in that, The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes Moringa oleifera seed extract, which is 2-4 parts by weight.
4. The moisturizing and oil-controlling structural loose powder according to claim 3, characterized in that, The weight of the Moringa oleifera seed extract is 2.5-3.5 parts.
5. The moisturizing and oil-controlling structural loose powder according to claim 1, characterized in that, The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres, with the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres having a weight ratio of 2.5-4.5 parts.
6. The moisturizing and oil-controlling structural loose powder according to claim 5, characterized in that, The temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are present in 3-4 parts by weight.
7. A method for preparing a moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder according to any one of claims 1-2, characterized in that, The preparation method specifically includes the following steps: (1) Lauroyl lysine, silica, modified mica powder, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane-polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinking polymer, and CI 73360 are mixed at low speed and recorded as the powder phase; (2) Mix water, xanthan gum, glycerol, hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated lecithin, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and Lactobacillus paracasei fermentation lysate evenly, heat to 70-80℃, homogenize at 2000-3000r for 2-3min, and record as the aqueous phase; (3) Mix the mixture of caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin, polysorbate-80, and plant squalane evenly and record it as the oil phase; (4) Stir and mix the aqueous phase and the oil phase, homogenize at 2000-4000r for 3-5min, and cool to room temperature; add acetyl hexapeptide-8 and asiaticoside-II, homogenize at 2000-4000r for 1-3min, and record as emulsion; (5) Mix the powder phase and the emulsion at low speed, vacuum degassing + air intake balancing, repeat 2-3 times to obtain the material; (6) The material is placed in an environment of (-40)~(-60)℃ for rapid freezing, followed by freeze sublimation drying for 8-12h and desorption drying for 8-12h to obtain the moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder product.
8. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that, The mixing ratio of the powder phase 1 and the emulsion 1 is 1:(1-2).
9. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that, The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes Moringa oleifera seed extract, which is 2-4 parts by weight; the Moringa oleifera seed extract is added in the step of preparing the aqueous phase.
10. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that, The moisturizing and oil-controlling structured loose powder also includes temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres, with the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres having a weight ratio of 2.5-4.5 parts; the temperature-responsive PNIPAM microspheres are added during the powder preparation step.