Traditional Chinese medicine eye essence with soothing and repairing effects and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics, and provides traditional Chinese medicine eye essence with soothing and repairing effects and a preparation method thereof.The essence is prepared from traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients, moisturizing and repairing ingredients, a solvent and auxiliary ingredients; wherein a traditional Chinese medicine active component consisting of chrysanthemum, medlar, salvia miltiorrhiza and centella asiatica extract is used as a core of deep anti-wrinkle repair, and is matched with moisturizing and repairing components such as sodium hyaluronate and ceramide to construct a five-dimensional synergistic system of deep anti-wrinkle, enhanced soothing, long-acting moisturizing, dissolution stabilization and mild synergism.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The application belongs to the technical field of traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics, and provides a traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing and repairing effects and a preparation method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] The skin thickness of the eye is only 1 / 3-1 / 5 of that of the face, the sebaceous gland distribution is less than 1 / 10 of that of the face, the barrier function is weak, and the eye is easily affected by external ultraviolet rays, dryness and internal factors such as staying up late and aging, and problems such as dryness and desquamation, fine lines and wrinkles, redness and sensitivity occur. According to the data of the China Sensitive Skin Care White Paper, about 42% of people aged 25-45 have eye sensitivity problems, and with age, the water content of the eye skin decreases by 3%-5% per year.

[0003] There are two major defects in existing eye care products: first, relying on chemical synthetic active ingredients (such as retinol and peptides), according to reports from third-party testing agencies, after using eye products containing 0.3% retinol, the incidence of stinging in sensitive skin groups reaches 38%, and it is difficult to balance mildness and effectiveness; second, traditional Chinese medicine eye care is mostly in the form of ointments and decoctions, and the solubility of polyphenols and flavonoids in traditional Chinese medicine is less than 5%, the penetration rate of the stratum corneum is less than 10%, and the delamination rate reaches 65% after 1 month of storage at 45℃, which cannot meet the needs of modern consumers for "refreshing and easy absorption, stability and long-term effect".

[0004] Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a traditional Chinese medicine eye serum based on the compatibility theory of traditional Chinese medicine "clearing liver and eyesight, promoting blood circulation and repairing", improve the utilization rate of effective ingredients through scientific technology, introduce stabilizers to optimize the stability of the system, and have mildness, effectiveness and use feel, to fill the gap in existing products. SUMMARY

[0005] In view of the problems of high irritation rate (>30%) of existing products, poor absorption of traditional Chinese medicine ingredients (penetration rate <10%), and weak formula stability (delamination at high temperature), the application provides a traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing and repairing effects and a preparation method thereof, guided by traditional Chinese medicine theory, combined with modern biological extraction and preparation technology, to achieve the effects of "mildness and soothing + repair and anti-wrinkle + long-term stability".

[0006] The purpose of the application is achieved by the following technical scheme: The first aspect of the application provides a traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing and repairing effects, the raw materials of the serum including: traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients, moisturizing and repairing ingredients, solvents and auxiliary ingredients, and the weight ratio of each raw material is: Traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients 10~15 Moisturizing and repairing ingredients 8~12 Solvent 65~80 Auxiliary component 3~5; The active ingredients of the traditional Chinese medicine are composed of chrysanthemum extract (luteolin content ≥1.2%), medlar extract (medlar polysaccharide content ≥20%), salvia miltiorrhiza extract (danshenshuan ketone II A content ≥0.5%) and gynura extract (hydroxyl gynura glycoside content ≥10%); The moisturizing and repairing component is one or more of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight 800,000~1,200,000 Da), panthenol (food grade, purity ≥99.5%), ceramide (NP type), glycerol (pharmaceutical grade, purity ≥99.7%, without chloroform); The auxiliary component is one or more of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB value 14-16), xanthan gum (low acetyl degree, viscosity ≥1,500 cP), phenoxyethanol (cosmetic grade, purity ≥99.0%), citric acid (food grade, purity ≥99.5%), hydroxyethyl cellulose (viscosity 2,500-3,500 cP, non-ionic type).

[0007] Further, the weight ratio of each extract in the active ingredients of the traditional Chinese medicine is: Chrysanthemum extract 3~5 Medlar extract 2~4 Salvia miltiorrhiza extract 2~3 Gynura extract 1~3.

[0008] Further, the weight ratio of each substance in the moisturizing and repairing component is: Sodium hyaluronate 0.1~0.3 Panthenol 2~3 Ceramide 1~2 Glycerol 5~7.

[0009] Further, the solvent is deionized water.

[0010] Further, the weight ratio of each substance in the auxiliary component is: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1~2 Xanthan gum 0.1~0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.8~1.2 Citric acid 0.05~0.1 The second aspect of the present application provides a preparation method of the TCM eye serum with soothing and repairing effects as described in the first aspect, comprising the following steps: (1) Chinese medicine extract preparation: take chrysanthemum, medlar, salvia miltiorrhiza, ginseng, and grind them to 80-100 mesh, add ethanol aqueous solution according to 1:8~1:15 solid-liquid ratio, constant temperature reflux extraction at 60-70 DEG C for 1-3 times, 1-3 h each time; under the vacuum degree-0.08~ -0.09MPa, 50-55 DEG C, reduce pressure concentration to no alcohol taste, get Chinese medicine extract concentrate, 4 DEG C refrigeration standby; (2) Water phase preparation: add solvent to the reaction kettle, heat to 70-75 DEG C, add glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose in turn, 300-500 rpm stirring until completely dissolved, keep warm for 20-40 min, get water phase system; (3) Active ingredient mixing: cool the water phase system to 45-50 DEG C, first add the Chinese medicine extract concentrate prepared in step (1), stir for 5-8 min, then add panthenol, continue to stir for 5-7 min, then add ceramide, stir at 200-300 rpm for 10-20 min; (4) Solubilization and pH adjustment: add PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, stir for 10 min; adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5 with citric acid aqueous solution; (5) Preservation and filtration: cool the system to below 30 DEG C, add phenoxyethanol and stir evenly; filter with a 0.22 μm polyether sulfone membrane, to obtain the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum.

[0011] Further, in step (1), the volume concentration of the ethanol aqueous solution is 65%-75%, and the solid-liquid ratio is 1:10-1:12.

[0012] The beneficial effects of the present application compared with the prior art are: 1. The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum of the present application has synergistic anti-wrinkle effect: through the "microcirculation-collagen-lipid" closed loop, the synergistic chain is: salvia miltiorrhiza extract (tanshinone II A) → ginseng extract (hydroxyl ginseng) → ceramide; Synergistic mechanism: tanshinone II A promotes local microcirculation of the eye, improves oxygen and nutrient transport efficiency, and accelerates the migration of subsequent components to the stratum corneum; hydroxyl ginseng activates fibroblasts, promotes the synthesis of type I and type III collagen, and repairs broken collagen fibers; ceramide replenishes skin lipids, reduces TEWL value, and provides a "protective shell" for the repaired collagen to avoid secondary damage; Synergistic effect: 28-day fine line reduction rate 32%-34%, TEWL value decreased by 40%-42%, better than commercially available traditional Chinese medicine eye serum (fine line reduction rate <15%); 2, The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum has the characteristics of mildness and high absorption: inhibition of histamine release by chrysanthemum extract (luteolin) + repair of barrier by asiaticoside extract (hydroxyl asiaticoside) + panthenol nourishment, low sensitive skin pain rate of 1.8% (38% for commercial products), high penetration rate of 38% of the traditional Chinese medicine anti-wrinkle component in the stratum corneum, and no sticky feeling after use; 3, The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum has high stability and is easy to produce: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil solubilizes fat-soluble anti-wrinkle components + xanthan gum + hydroxyethyl cellulose constructs a three-dimensional network structure, the solubility of traditional Chinese medicine components is greater than or equal to 98% after storage at 45°C for 3 months, there is no stratification and precipitation, the shelf life is 24 months at 25°C; the viscosity difference between industrial production batches is less than or equal to 3%, and the qualified rate is 99.5%; 4, The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum can long-acting moisturize and shrink water, wherein the activation of aquaporin by wolfberry extract (wolfberry polysaccharide) + the three-dimensional water locking of sodium hyaluronate (low / molecular) + glycerol + ceramide reinforcing barrier, the moisturizing time is 10 hours, and the skin water content maintenance rate is greater than or equal to 65% after 48 hours; 5, The components in the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum are safe and controllable: the content of the core anti-wrinkle components (danshenshuan II A and hydroxyl asiaticoside) is clear, which meets the requirements of the 2022 version of the “Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification”; the pH is adjusted to 5.5-6.5 (the pH of the eye skin is 5.0-6.0) by citric acid + panthenol reduces the irritation of preservatives + phenoxyethanol safe preservative, and the microbial qualified rate is 100% (24 months shelf life). DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0013] The examples are used to better illustrate the present application, but are not the only embodiments of the present application. Therefore, those skilled in the art can make non-essential improvements and adjustments to the embodiments according to the above disclosure, which still fall within the scope of the present application.

[0014] The endpoints of the ranges and any values in the present disclosure are not limited to the precise values stated. The ranges and values should be interpreted as approximately between the stated values. For numerical ranges, the endpoints of each range are included, the endpoints of each range and individual points within the ranges are combinable with one another to form new ranges, which are also within the scope of the present disclosure.

[0015] The present application will be described in detail below by examples. It should be understood that the following examples are only used to exemplarily further explain and illustrate the content of the present application, and are not used to limit the present application.

[0016] Example 1 The embodiment provides a traditional Chinese medicine eye essence (total weight 100g) with soothing repair effect, raw materials of the essence include: 11g of traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients, 10.2g of moisturizing repair ingredients, 76.2g of solvents and 2.4g of auxiliary ingredients, and the amount of each raw material is respectively: Traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients: 4g of chrysanthemum extract (1.2% of luteolin), 3g of medlar extract (20% of medlar polysaccharide), 2g of salvia miltiorrhiza extract (0.5% of tanshinone II A), and 2g of gynura extract (10% of hydroxyl gynura glycoside).

[0017] Moisturizing repair ingredients: 0.2g of sodium hyaluronate (8 million-12 million Da), 2.5g of panthenol (99.5%), 1.5g of ceramide (NP type, homology 90%), and 6g of glycerol (99.7%).

[0018] Solvent: 76.2g of deionized water (conductivity 8 μS / cm).

[0019] Auxiliary ingredients: 1.5g of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 15), 0.2g of xanthan gum (1500 cP), 1g of phenoxyethanol (99.0%), 0.1g of citric acid (99.5%), and 0.1g of hydroxyethyl cellulose (3000 cP).

[0020] The preparation method of the traditional Chinese medicine eye essence is as follows: (1) Traditional Chinese medicine extract preparation: chrysanthemum, medlar, salvia miltiorrhiza and gynura are crushed to 80 meshes, 1:10 liquid ratio of ethanol aqueous solution is added, 65 DEG C constant temperature reflux extraction is carried out twice, 2h each time, and the alcohol smell is removed under the vacuum degree-0.08 MPa, 52 DEG C reduced pressure concentration to obtain 11g of traditional Chinese medicine extract concentrate, 4 DEG C cold storage is used. Test: tanshinone II A content 0.01g (meet 0.5% requirements), hydroxyl gynura glycoside content 0.2g (meet 10% requirements), and active retention rate 96%.

[0021] (2) Water phase preparation: 76.2g of deionized water is added to the reaction kettle, heated to 72 DEG C, 6g of glycerol, 0.2g of sodium hyaluronate, 0.2g of xanthan gum and 01g of hydroxyethyl cellulose are added in turn, 350rpm stirring is carried out until completely dissolved, 20~40min are kept, and the water phase system is obtained. Test: transmittance ≥98% (no particles), and viscosity 2200 cP.

[0022] (3) Mixing of active ingredients: the water phase system was cooled to 48°C, 11 g of the concentrated extract of traditional Chinese medicine prepared in step (1) was added, stirred for 5 min, then 2.5 g of panthenol was added, stirred for 5 min, then 1.5 g of ceramide was added, and stirred at 250 rpm for 15 min. Test: particle diameter of the system was 1.8 μm (<2 μm), the glycosidic bond integrity of hydroxyl asperosaponin was 98%, and the activity retention rate of tanshinone IIA was 95%.

[0023] (4) Solubilization and pH adjustment: 1.5 g of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil was added, and stirred for 10 min; the pH was adjusted to 6.0 with 1% citric acid aqueous solution. Test: solubility of tanshinone IIA was 98.5%.

[0024] (5) Preservation and filtration: the system was cooled to 28°C, 1 g of phenoxyethanol was added and stirred uniformly; the system was filtered with a polyether sulfone 0.22 μm microporous filter membrane, and test: total bacterial count was <5 CFU / g, and the viscosity was 2500 cP (meeting the requirement of 2000-3000 cP), to obtain the eye essence of traditional Chinese medicine.

[0025] According to the "Guidelines for Stability Test of Cosmetics", the eye essence of traditional Chinese medicine obtained in the example was subjected to stability test, specifically: 1. Accelerated stability test (45°C±2°C / -10°C±2°C, 3 months) Appearance: no delamination, precipitation, discoloration, or peculiar smell; Retention rate of active ingredients: tanshinone IIA 93% (45°C) / 94% (-10°C), hydroxyl asperosaponin 92% (45°C) / 93% (-10°C), and ceramide 95% (45°C) / 96% (-10°C); Viscosity change rate: ≤3% (initial 2500 cP at 45°C→2570 cP; initial 2500 cP at -10°C→2480 cP); pH change: stable at 5.8-6.2 (initial 6.0).

[0026] 2. Long-term stability test (25°C±2°C, RH 60%±5%, 24 months) Appearance: always clear and transparent; Microbial indicators: total bacterial count <10 CFU / g, mold and yeast <10 CFU / g, and no pathogenic bacteria were detected; Retention rate of active ingredients: tanshinone IIA 88%, hydroxyl asperosaponin 87%, and ceramide 90%; Efficacy retention rate: fine line reduction rate was still 29% (initial 32%), and the decrease amplitude of TEWL value was still 37% (initial 40%).

[0027] Example 2 The embodiment provides a traditional Chinese medicine eye serum (total weight 100 g) with soothing and repairing effects, raw materials of the serum include: 10 g of traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients, 9.1 g of moisturizing and repairing ingredients, 78.9 g of solvents and 2 g of auxiliary ingredients, and the amount of each raw material is respectively: The traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients include 3 g of chrysanthemum extract, 2 g of medlar extract, 3 g of salvia miltiorrhiza extract and 2 g of gynura herb extract.

[0028] The moisturizing and repairing ingredients include 0.1 g of sodium hyaluronate, 2 g of panthenol, 2 g of ceramide and 5 g of glycerol.

[0029] The solvent is 78.9 g of deionized water.

[0030] The auxiliary ingredients include 1 g of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.1 g of xanthan gum, 0.8 g of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 g of citric acid and 0.05 g of hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0031] The preparation method of the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum is referred to the preparation method in the embodiment 1, and the difference lies in that, in the step (1), the raw materials are crushed to 100 meshes, and are concentrated under reduced pressure to be free of alcohol taste under the conditions of a vacuum degree of-0.09 MPa and 50 DEG C.

[0032] Compared with the embodiment 1, the amount of salvia miltiorrhiza extract in the traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients is increased in the embodiment, so that the content of tanshinone II A is increased, and the amount of ceramide is increased, so that the barrier repair is improved.

[0033] After 28 days, the effects of the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum product prepared in the embodiment are detected, including that the fine line reduction rate of the product is 34 %, the TEWL value is decreased by 42 %, the redness relief rate is 18 %, the sensitive skin stinging rate is 2.0 %, and the active ingredient retention rate is 92 % after 3 months of storage at 45 DEG C.

[0034] According to the 'Cosmetic Stability Test Guide', the stability of the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum obtained in the embodiment is tested, and the specific steps are as follows: 1, accelerated stability (45 DEG C±2 DEG C / -10 DEG C±2 DEG C, 3 months) appearance: no stratification, precipitation, discoloration; active ingredient: gynura glycoside retention rate 92 % (45 DEG C), 93 % (-10 DEG C); viscosity: change rate ≤4 %.

[0035] 2, long-term stability (25 DEG C±2 DEG C, RH 60 %±5 %, 24 months) appearance: always clear and transparent; pH: stable at 5.8-6.2 (initial 6.0); microorganism: total bacterial count <10 CFU / g, mold and yeast <10 CFU / g, meeting the standard.

[0036] Comparative Example 1 This comparative example provides a traditional Chinese medicine eye serum (total weight 100 g), the raw materials and preparation method of the serum refer to Example 2, the difference is that: Traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients: chrysanthemum extract 3 g, medlar extract 2 g, salvia miltiorrhiza extract 5 g.

[0037] Moisturizing and repairing ingredients: sodium hyaluronate 0.1 g, panthenol 2 g, glycerol 5 g.

[0038] Solvent: deionized water 80.9 g.

[0039] Test Example This test example tests the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 for the following efficacy verification test: (I) Mildness test (according to the 2022 version of the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification") Test subjects: 30 sensitive skin volunteers (lactic acid stinging score ≥ 3 points), 20-45 years old, 15 males and 15 females, no history of eye skin diseases.

[0040] Test method: Apply 0.02 g of the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum product of Example 1 or Comparative Example 1 on the inner side of the forearm twice a day for 28 consecutive days; score 0-4 points (0 points for no irritation, 1 point for slight redness, 2 points for obvious redness, 3 points for redness and swelling, and 4 points for redness and swelling and stinging).

[0041] Test results: The average irritation score was 0.2 points, only 1 person had 1 point of slight redness (which subsided within 24 hours), and the sensitive skin stinging rate was 1.8%, proving that the product is mild and non-irritating.

[0042] (II) Efficacy Test Test instruments: Corneometer CM825 (skin moisture content), Visioscan VC98 (number / length of fine lines), Tewameter TM300 (TEWL trans-epidermal water loss value).

[0043] Test subjects: 60 eye wrinkle subjects (dry wrinkles ≥ 5, TEWL value ≥ 20 g / (h·m²), 25-45 years old), randomly divided into experimental group (Example 1 product) and control group (Comparative Example 1 product), 30 people in each group.

[0044] Test method: Apply 0.03 g of the product around the eyes after cleansing in the morning and evening for 28 consecutive days, and test the indicators on days 0, 14, and 28, respectively.

[0045] Test results:

[0046] It should be pointed out finally that the above is only to illustrate the technical solutions of the present application but not to limit, although the present application is described in detail with reference to the preferred arrangement, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solutions of the present application can be modified or equivalently replaced without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims

1. A traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing repair efficacy, characterized in that, The raw materials of the essence include: traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients, moisturizing and repairing ingredients, solvents and auxiliary ingredients, and the weight ratio of each raw material is: Traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients 10~15 Moisturizing and repairing ingredients 8~12 Solvent 65~80 Auxiliary ingredients 3~5; The traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients are composed of chrysanthemum extract, medlar extract, salvia miltiorrhiza extract and gynura extract; The moisturizing and repairing ingredients are one or more of sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, ceramide and glycerol; The auxiliary ingredients are one or more of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, xanthan gum, phenoxy ethanol, citric acid and hydroxyethyl cellulose.

2. The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing repair efficacy according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight ratio of each extract in the traditional Chinese medicine active ingredients is: Chrysanthemum extract 3~5 Medlar extract 2~4 Salvia miltiorrhiza extract 2~3 Gynura extract 1~3.

3. The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing repair efficacy according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight ratio of each substance in the moisturizing and repairing ingredients is: Sodium hyaluronate 0.1~0.3 Panthenol 2~3 Ceramide 1~2 Glycerol 5~7.

4. The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing repair efficacy according to claim 1, characterized in that, The solvent is deionized water.

5. The traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing repair efficacy according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight ratio of each substance in the auxiliary ingredients is: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1~2 Xanthan gum 0.1~0.3 Phenoxy ethanol 0.8~1.2 Citric acid 0.05~0.1 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.05~0.

1.

6. A preparation method of the traditional Chinese medicine eye serum with soothing and repairing effects according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that, The preparation method includes the following steps: (1) Traditional Chinese medicine extract preparation: grind chrysanthemum, medlar, salvia miltiorrhiza and gynura to 80-100 mesh, add ethanol aqueous solution according to 1:8~1:15 solid-liquid ratio, constant temperature reflux extraction at 60℃-70℃ for 1~3 times, each time for 1~3h; under vacuum degree -0.08~ -0.09MPa, 50℃-55℃, reduce pressure concentration to no alcohol taste, get traditional Chinese medicine extract concentrate, 4℃ cold storage for standby; (2) Water phase preparation: add solvent to the reaction kettle, heat to 70℃-75℃, add glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose in turn, stir at 300-500rpm until completely dissolved, keep warm for 20~40min, get water phase system; (3) Active ingredient mixing: cool the water phase system to 45℃-50℃, first add the traditional Chinese medicine extract concentrate prepared in step (1), stir for 5-8min, then add panthenol, continue to stir for 5-7min, then add ceramide, stir at 200-300rpm for 10~20min; (4) Solubilization and pH adjustment: add PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and stir for 10min; adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5 with citric acid aqueous solution; (5) Preservation and filtration: cool the system to below 30℃, add phenoxy ethanol and stir evenly; filter with 0.22μm microporous filter membrane of polyether sulfone material, get the traditional Chinese medicine eye essence.

7. The preparation method according to claim 6, characterized in that, In step (1), the volume concentration of the ethanol aqueous solution is 65%-75%, and the solid-liquid ratio is 1:10-1:12.

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