Female upper garment prototype scaling method and template

Abstract

The invention discloses a female dress prototype scaling method and template, a basic prototype is determined, then the chest circumference scaling amount on the basic prototype is determined, finally, the chest circumference scaling amount is distributed to the front chest width, the back width, the front side and the rear side on the basic prototype according to a set proportion, and the scaling template comprises a front middle plate, a front side plate, a rear middle plate and a rear side plate. The front middle plate is provided with a front middle first a scale and a front middle second a scale, the front side plate is provided with a front side first a scale, a front side second a scale, a front side first b scale and a front side second b scale, the rear middle plate is provided with a rear middle first a scale and a rear middle second a scale, and the rear side plate is provided with a rear side first a scale, a rear side second a scale, a rear side first c scale and a rear side second c scale. And zooming is realized by aligning different scales. The same zooming template can draw the basic prototype and draw the zoomed model on the basic prototype based on the distribution rule, the zooming precision is high, the drawing is accurate, and the drawing efficiency is high.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of garment structure design, and specifically relates to a female upper garment prototype scaling method and a template. BACKGROUND

[0002] In the industrial production of garments, accurate scaling of a female upper garment prototype is a key technical link for realizing series production of multiple specifications. The traditional scaling method mainly relies on manual experience for point-by-point pushing, and has technical defects such as low efficiency and error accumulation. Especially for complex curved surface structures (such as sleeve hole arc lines, neck pocket curves and other parts), conventional proportional scaling cannot guarantee the reasonable transition of the pattern structure, resulting in problems such as local deformation and reduced comfort of the finished garment.

[0003] The existing prototype garment structure design method is to obtain torso surface data and then design a prototype method garment structure, and the prototype scaling needs to be recalculated and drawn according to the torso data, which can meet good scaling accuracy, but the scaling efficiency needs to be improved. SUMMARY

[0004] In view of the above problems existing in the prior art, the purpose of the present application is to provide a female upper garment prototype scaling method and a template, which distributes the chest circumference enlargement or reduction amount to the front chest width, back width, front side and back side according to a distribution rule. The scaling method takes into account both aesthetics and comfort, and the same set of scaling templates can be used to draw a basic prototype and a scaled pattern on the basic prototype based on the above distribution rule. The set of templates can be used to draw a female garment structure diagram, and the scaling method has high scaling accuracy, high drawing accuracy and high drawing efficiency, and meets the dual needs of standardization and rapid response in industrial production, and provides basic support for the intelligent development of structure design.

[0005] In order to achieve the above purpose, the technical solution adopted by the present application is:

[0006] A female upper garment prototype scaling method, which first determines a basic prototype, then determines a chest circumference scaling amount on the basic prototype, and finally distributes the chest circumference scaling amount to the front chest width, back width, front side and back side according to a set proportion on the basic prototype to obtain a scaled prototype.

[0007] The female upper garment prototype comprises a front piece and a back piece, and the division line of the front piece and the back piece is a side seam line, the front piece comprises a front armhole arc line, a front center line and a front side seam line, a shoulder line and a waist line, the back piece comprises a back armhole arc line, a back center line and a back side seam line, a shoulder line and a waist line, the front center line is parallel to the back center line, the front armhole arc line and the back armhole arc line are connected to form an armhole, the front side seam line and the back side seam line overlap to form a garment side seam line, a front chest wide line divides the front piece of the prototype into a front middle plate and a front side plate, the front chest wide line is parallel to the front center line and is tangent to the front armhole arc line, the front middle plate is a part containing the front center line, the front side plate is a part containing the front armhole arc line, a back chest wide line divides the back piece of the prototype into a back middle plate and a back side plate, the back chest wide line is parallel to the back center line and is tangent to the back armhole arc line, the back middle plate is a part containing the back center line, and the back side plate is a part containing the back armhole arc line, the front chest wide is the length of the chest circumference line between the front center line and the front chest wide line, the front side is the length of the chest circumference line between the side seam line and the front chest wide line, the back chest wide is the length of the chest circumference line between the back center line and the back chest wide line, and the back side is the length of the chest circumference line between the side seam line and the back chest wide line.

[0008] As a further improvement of the above technical solution:

[0009] When the chest circumference is reduced, the chest circumference reduction amount is distributed according to the ratio of front chest wide:back chest wide:back side:front side=1:1:2:4.

[0010] When the chest circumference is enlarged, the chest circumference enlargement amount is distributed according to the ratio of front chest wide:back chest wide:front side:back side=1:1:2:4.

[0011] The front middle plate, the front side plate, the back middle plate and the back side plate are all plate-shaped structures.

[0012] The front middle plate is provided with a front middle first a scale and a front middle second a scale, the front side plate is provided with a front side first a scale, a front side second a scale, a front side first b scale and a front side second b scale, the front middle first a scale and the front side first a scale are aligned at different positions, the front middle second a scale and the front side second a scale are aligned at different positions, and the connecting line of the two alignment points is a front chest wide line of the scaled prototype, so as to adjust the front chest wide, and the connecting line of different scale points on the front side first b scale and different scale points on the front side second b scale is a front side seam line of the scaled prototype front piece, so as to adjust the front side.

[0013] The back middle plate is provided with a back middle first a scale and a back middle second a scale, and the back side plate is provided with a back side first a scale, a back side second a scale, a back side first c scale and a back side second c scale. The back middle first a scale and the back side first a scale are aligned at different positions, and the back middle second a scale and the back side second a scale are aligned at different positions. A line connecting the two alignment points is a back width line of the scaled back prototype, so as to adjust the back width. A line connecting different scale points on the back side first c scale and the back side second c scale is a back side seam line of the scaled back prototype back piece, so as to adjust the back side.

[0014] The front middle plate is provided with a front middle sleeve notch scale for marking the lowest point of the front sleeve notch arc line, and the back middle plate is provided with a back middle sleeve notch scale for marking the lowest point of the back sleeve notch arc line.

[0015] The scale range of the front middle first a scale, the front middle second a scale, the back middle first a scale and the back middle second a scale is 3 mm, and the minimum scale is 1 mm. The scale range of the front side first a scale, the front side second a scale, the back side first a scale and the back side second a scale is 6 mm, and the minimum scale is 1 mm. The scale origin 0 is located in the middle, and there are 3 mm scales on the left and right sides of the scale origin 0. The minimum scale 1 mm corresponds to the change amount of the front chest width or the back width when the chest circumference is enlarged or reduced by 2 cm.

[0016] The range of the front side first b scale and the front side second b scale is 24 mm. The scale origin 0 is located in the middle. The right side of the origin 0 is sequentially distributed with scales of 5 mm, 10 mm and 15 mm, respectively corresponding to a reduction of 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm in the chest circumference. The left side of the origin 0 is sequentially distributed with scales of 3 mm, 6 mm and 9 mm, respectively corresponding to an enlargement of 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm in the chest circumference.

[0017] The range of the back side first c scale and the back side second c scale is 24 mm. The scale origin 0 is located in the middle. Starting from the origin 0, the left side is sequentially distributed with scales of 3 mm, 6 mm and 9 mm, respectively corresponding to a reduction of 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm in the chest circumference. Starting from the origin 0, the right side is sequentially distributed with scales of 5 mm, 10 mm and 15 mm, respectively corresponding to an enlargement of 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm in the chest circumference.

[0018] The contour line of the front middle plate includes a front collar arc line, a front center line, a first front waist segment line, a front middle second waist segment line, a front middle chest width line, a front middle auxiliary line and a front middle shoulder line connected in sequence in a clockwise direction. The front middle shoulder line and the front collar arc line are connected, and the intersection point is a front shoulder collar point. The first front waist segment line is perpendicular to the front center line. The intersection point of the first front waist segment line and the front middle second waist segment line is parallel to the front center line.

[0019] The contour line of the front side plate comprises, in sequence and connected along a counterclockwise direction, a front armhole arc line, a front underarm line, a front side waist section line, a front side auxiliary line and a front side shoulder line, the front side shoulder line is connected with the front armhole arc line and the intersection point is a front shoulder sleeve point;

[0020] After the front chest wide line and the front side seam line are determined, the front collar arc line and the front center line of the front middle plate are the front collar arc line and the front center line of the current prototype respectively, the first front waist section line is determined by connecting the lower end point of the front side seam line and the end point of one end of the second front waist section line, the intersection point of the front shoulder collar point and the front shoulder sleeve point is the front shoulder line of the current prototype, the front armhole arc line of the current prototype is manually drawn, the two end points of the front armhole arc line are the front shoulder sleeve point and the upper end point of the front side seam line respectively, and the front armhole arc line is tangent to the front chest wide line.

[0021] The contour line of the back middle plate comprises, in sequence and connected along a counterclockwise direction, a back collar arc line, a back center line, a back middle waist section line, a back middle chest wide line, a back middle auxiliary line and a back middle shoulder line, the back middle shoulder line is connected with the back collar arc line and the intersection point is a back shoulder collar point, the back middle waist section line is perpendicular to the back center line;

[0022] The contour line of the back side plate comprises, in sequence and connected along a clockwise direction, a back armhole arc line, a back underarm line, a back side waist section line, a back side auxiliary line and a back side shoulder line, the back side shoulder line is connected with the back armhole arc line and the intersection point is a back shoulder sleeve point;

[0023] After the back chest wide line and the back side seam line are determined, the back collar arc line and the back center line of the back middle plate are the back collar arc line and the back center line of the current prototype respectively, the back waist section line of the current prototype is determined by connecting the lower end point of the back side seam line and the lower end point of the back center line, the line connecting the back shoulder collar point and the back shoulder sleeve point is the back shoulder line of the current prototype, the back armhole arc line of the current prototype is manually drawn, the two end points of the back armhole arc line are the back shoulder sleeve point and the upper end point of the back side seam line respectively, and the back armhole arc line is tangent to the back chest wide line.

[0024] The total thickness of the overlapping part of the front middle plate and the front side plate after overlapping is not greater than the thickness of the non-overlapping part of the front middle plate and the front side plate, and the total thickness of the overlapping part of the back middle plate and the back side plate after overlapping is not greater than the thickness of the non-overlapping part of the back middle plate and the back side plate.

[0025] The front underarm line comprises a front scale segment and a front body segment connected in sequence, the front scale segment and the front body segment are connected into a broken line, the front body segment is parallel to the side seam line of the basic prototype, the scale segment is marked with a front side armhole scale, each scale of the front side armhole scale corresponds to each scale of the front middle armhole scale, the line connecting the scale of the front side armhole scale and the scale corresponding to the front middle armhole scale is parallel to the bust line, and each scale on the front side armhole scale also corresponds to each scale left to the origin of the front side first b scale, the line connecting the scale of the front side armhole scale and the scale corresponding to the front side first b scale is parallel to the side seam line;

[0026] The rear underarm line comprises a rear scale segment and a rear body segment connected in sequence, the rear scale segment and the rear body segment are connected into a broken line, the rear body segment is parallel to the side seam line of the basic prototype, the scale segment is marked with a rear side armhole scale, each scale of the rear side armhole scale corresponds to each scale of the rear middle armhole scale, the line connecting the scale of the rear side armhole scale and the scale corresponding to the rear middle armhole scale is parallel to the bust line, and each scale on the rear side armhole scale also corresponds to each scale right to the origin of the rear side first c scale, the line connecting the scale of the rear side armhole scale and the scale corresponding to the rear side first c scale is parallel to the side seam line.

[0027] The beneficial effects of the present application are:

[0028] (1) The chest circumference enlargement or reduction amount is distributed to the front chest width, the back width, the front side and the rear side according to a certain proportion, the zooming method considers both aesthetics and comfort, the same set of zooming templates can draw the basic prototype and the zoomed version based on the basic prototype according to the above distribution rule, the set of templates can be used to draw the women's clothing structure diagram, the zooming precision is high, the drawing is accurate, the drawing efficiency is high, the double needs of standardization and rapid response for industrial production are met, and basic support is provided for the intelligent development of structure design.

[0029] (2) The chest circumference zooming amount data (such as 2cm) can be set as a reduction or enlargement change multiple base, a plurality of zoom scales are marked on the same set of zooming templates, and the adjustment amounts of the front chest width, the back width, the front side and the rear side are corresponded, when reduction or enlargement is needed, only the template contour line and the corresponding scale point are directly drawn, and then the basic prototype or the zoomed prototype can be drawn, and the use is simple. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0030] Figure 1 is a basic line schematic diagram of a women's upper garment basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present application.

[0031] Figure 2 is a completed line schematic diagram of a women's upper garment basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present application.

[0032] Figure 3is a schematic diagram of a female upper garment basic prototype in a reducing embodiment of the present application.

[0033] Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of a female upper garment basic prototype in an enlarging embodiment of the present application.

[0034] Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of a front middle plate and a front side plate in a combined state in an embodiment of the present application.

[0035] Figure 6 is a schematic diagram of a front side plate in an embodiment of the present application.

[0036] Figure 7 is a schematic diagram of a front middle plate in an embodiment of the present application.

[0037] Figure 8 is a schematic diagram of a rear middle plate and a rear side plate in a combined state in an embodiment of the present application.

[0038] Figure 9 is a schematic diagram of a rear middle plate in an embodiment of the present application.

[0039] Figure 10 is a schematic diagram of a rear side plate in an embodiment of the present application.

[0040] Figure 11 is a schematic diagram of a front piece in an embodiment of the present application. Figure 6 and Figure 10 is a schematic diagram of an enlargement of a at a in the

[0041] Figure 12 is a schematic diagram of an enlargement of b in the Figure 6 and c in the Figure 10 .

[0042] Figure 13 is a schematic diagram of a front piece in a reducing embodiment of the present application.

[0043] Figure 14 is a schematic diagram of a back piece in a reducing embodiment of the present application.

[0044] Figure 15 is a schematic diagram of a front piece in an enlarging embodiment of the present application.

[0045] Figure 16 is a schematic diagram of a back piece in an enlarging embodiment of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0046] The specific embodiments of the present application will be described below in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely intended to illustrate and explain the present application, and are not intended to limit the present application.

[0047] For purposes of the description hereinafter, spatially relative terms, such as "above", "below", "up", "down", "between", "within", "left", "right", "rear", "front", "upper", "lower", "horizontal", "vertical", "above", "below", "up", "down", "top", "bottom", "under", and the like, can be used herein for ease of description to describe one element's or feature's relationship to another element(s) or feature(s) as illustrated in the figures. It will be understood that the spatially relative terms are intended to encompass different orientations of the device in use or operation in addition to the orientations depicted in the figures. For example, if a device in the figures is inverted, elements described as "above" or "up" other elements or features would then be oriented "below" or "down" the other elements or features. Thus, the exemplary term "above" can encompass both an orientation of above and below. The device can be otherwise oriented (rotated 90 degrees or at other orientations) and the spatially relative descriptors used herein interpreted accordingly. The terms "first", "second", "third", etc. can be used herein to describe various elements, regions, layers and / or sections but are not intended to be used herein to designate importance or a particular order of manufacture.

[0048] A female upper garment prototype scaling method first introduces a female upper garment prototype.

[0049] The female upper garment prototype embodies the most important part of the female body trunk information, has the common structure characteristics of the female upper garment style, and is the basic pattern for a clothing pattern designer to change the style and design the structure. As a basic pattern, according to different style modeling requirements, the original prototype is changed by shifting the dart, pleating, splitting, splicing and the like, so that the required pattern can be quickly made, and the structure design and clothing pattern making efficiency are improved.

[0050] As Figure 1 and Figure 2 are respectively a female upper garment basic prototype basic line and a finished line diagram of this embodiment, which are drawn by referring to the Japanese cultural prototype based on a mother version made in GB / T 1335.2-2008 Women's Garment Size Middle Body 160 / 84·A type. Among them, the bust B* is 84 cm, the back length BC is 38 cm, and the basic ease of the bust is 10 cm. The patterns of other size specifications can be based on the mother version to push the size.

[0051] As Figure 1 and Figure 2 shown, the human body is symmetrical to the left and right with the front center line QZ as the center, so the prototype drawing only needs to be made according to half of the human body. Since women are used to wearing the right side of the garment on the left side, the drawing is based on the right side of the human body, that is, the front center line QZ is on the right side, so that the structure of the exposed collar can be completely displayed.

[0052] The female upper garment prototype is made based on the two reference dimensions of the bust B* and the back length BC of the upper body, and a certain amount of ease is added. The upper garment prototype is mainly made based on the bust dimension, because the size of the bust dimension of the human body is strongly related to the sizes of other parts of the upper body, such as the neck circumference, arms, shoulder width, etc. Therefore, based on the bust dimension, the sizes of other corresponding parts are calculated according to the proportion, and the fit to the human body is high.

[0053] Specifically, as shown in Figures 2-4 The female upper garment prototype includes a front piece Q and a back piece H. The contour lines of the front piece Q include a front sleeve cap curve QX, a front shoulder line QJ, a front collar curve QL, a front center line QZ, a first front waist section line QY, a second front waist section line QYF, and a front side seam line QC, which are sequentially connected. The front side seam line QC is connected with the front sleeve cap curve QX. The intersection of the front shoulder line QJ and the front collar curve QL is a front shoulder collar point O1, and the intersection of the front shoulder line QJ and the front sleeve cap curve QX is a front shoulder sleeve point P1. The intersection of the front side seam line QC and the front sleeve cap curve QX is a front axillary sleeve point E1, and the intersection of the front side seam line QC and the second front waist section line QYF is a front axillary waist point F1.

[0054] The contour lines of the back piece H include a back sleeve cap curve HX, a back shoulder line HJ, a back collar curve HL, a back center line HZ, a back waist section line HY, and a back side seam line HC, which are sequentially connected. The back side seam line HC is connected with the back sleeve cap curve HX. The intersection of the back shoulder line HJ and the back collar curve HL is a back shoulder collar point O2, and the intersection of the back shoulder line HJ and the back sleeve cap curve HX is a back shoulder sleeve point P2. The intersection of the back side seam line HC and the back sleeve cap curve HX is a back axillary sleeve point E1', and the intersection of the back side seam line HC and the back waist section line HY is a back axillary waist point F1'.

[0055] After the front piece Q and the back piece H are connected, the front side seam line QC and the back side seam line HC overlap to form a side seam line C, and the front center line QZ and the back center line HZ are parallel. There is a bust line BL on the prototype, which passes through the front piece Q and the back piece H. The bust line BL passes through the lower end point of the front sleeve cap curve QX and the lower end point of the back sleeve cap curve HX, and the bust line BL is perpendicular to the front center line QZ.

[0056] When the paper pattern is made by using the prototype template for structural design, the bust ease often needs to be adjusted. The bust ease is a size difference value added to the net bust of the human body to ensure the comfort and freedom of movement. Adjusting the bust ease is to change the fit of the female upper garment, but it cannot be applied in the same way as the ease allowance, that is, it needs to ensure that the style is realized and that it can adapt to the human body of a certain size.

[0057] The adjustment of the bust ease includes two cases of reducing the bust ease and enlarging the bust ease on the basis of the prototype.

[0058] In the process of reducing the chest circumference, the front body is mainly static and aesthetic, the back body is mainly functional and comfortable, and the rest is distributed to the front chest width F, the back width B, the front side S1 and the back side S2. For example, Figure 3 and 4 As shown, the front chest width line L1 divides the front piece Q of the prototype into two parts, the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2. The front chest width line L1 is parallel to the front center line QZ and tangent to the front armhole arc line QX. The front middle plate 1 is the part close to the front center line QZ, and the front side plate 2 is the part close to the front side seam line QC. The front chest width F is the length of the chest circumference line BL between the front center line QZ and the front chest width line L1, and the front side S1 is the length of the chest circumference line BL between the side seam line C and the front chest width line L1. Similarly, the back width line L2 divides the back piece H of the prototype into two parts, the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4. The back width line L2 is parallel to the back center line HZ and tangent to the back armhole arc line HX. The back middle plate 3 is the part close to the back center line HZ, and the back side plate 4 is the part close to the back side seam line HC. The back width is the length of the chest circumference line BL between the back center line HZ and the back width line L2, and the back side is the length of the chest circumference line BL between the side seam line C and the back width line L2.

[0059] In the process of reducing the width, the reduced size is reduced according to the approximate distribution of "front chest width F:back width B:back side S2:front side S1=1:1:2:4". Assuming that the chest circumference is reduced by x, the reduction amount of each part is: the front chest width F is reduced by x / 2·1 / 8=x / 16, the back width B is reduced by x / 2·1 / 8=x / 16, the back side S2 is reduced by x / 2·2 / 8=x / 8, and the front side S1 is reduced by x / 2·4 / 8=x / 4. The depth of the front armhole arc line QX and the back armhole arc line HX can generally remain unchanged, and at most can be raised by 1 cm. The depth of the front armhole arc line QX refers to the size of the front armhole arc line QX in the direction parallel to the front center line QZ, and the depth of the back armhole arc line HX refers to the size of the back armhole arc line HX in the direction parallel to the back center line HZ. For example, Figure 3 The dashed line is the position of the front piece Q and the back piece H line after the width is reduced.

[0060] In the process of increasing the width, the increase is enlarged according to the approximate proportion of "front chest width F:back width B:front side S1:back side S2=1:1:2:4". Assuming that the chest circumference is increased by x, the increase amount of each part is: the front chest width F is increased by x / 2·1 / 8=x / 16, the back width B is increased by x / 2·1 / 8=x / 16, the front side S1 is increased by x / 2·2 / 8=x / 8, and the back side S2 is increased by x / 2·4 / 8=x / 4. At the same time, for every increase of x in the chest circumference, the depth of the front armhole arc line QX and the depth of the back armhole arc line HX increase by x / 3. For example, Figure 4 The dashed line is the position of the front piece Q and the back piece H line after the width is increased.

[0061] When x is 2 cm, 4 cm, 6 cm, the parameters related to x are kept to one decimal place.

[0062] In this embodiment, when the chest circumference is reduced by x, the front chest width F is reduced by x / 20, the back width B is reduced by x / 20, the back side S2 is reduced by 3x / 20, and the front side S1 is reduced by x / 4. When the chest circumference is increased by x, the front chest width F is increased by x / 20, the back width B is increased by x / 20, the back side S2 is increased by x / 4, and the front side S1 is increased by 3x / 20.

[0063] The following is an example to illustrate the chest circumference reduction and relaxation on the base prototype.

[0064] The chest circumference relaxation of the base prototype is 10 cm. When the chest circumference is reduced by x, the front chest width F of the front piece Q is reduced by x / 20, and the difference is 0.1; the back width B of the back piece H is reduced by x / 20, and the difference is 0.1; the front side S1 is reduced by x / 4, and the difference is 0.5; the back side S2 is reduced by 3x / 20, and the difference is 0.3.

[0065] Based on the above scaling method, a scaling template of a female upper garment prototype is provided, which includes front middle plate 1, front side plate 2, back middle plate 3 and back side plate 4, all of which are plate-shaped structures. The front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 form a front piece template, as shown in Figure 5 The back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 form a back piece template, as shown in Figure 8 .

[0066] The front middle plate 1 is as shown in Figure 7 The contour line of the front middle plate 1 includes, in sequence along the clockwise direction, a front collar arc line QL, a front center line QZ, a first front waist segment line QY, a front middle second waist segment line 110, a front middle chest width line 101, a front middle auxiliary line 102, and a front middle shoulder line 103, the front middle shoulder line 103 and the front collar arc line QL are connected and the intersection point is a front shoulder collar point O1. The first front waist segment line QY is perpendicular to the front center line QZ, and the intersection line of the first front waist segment line QY and the front middle second waist segment line 110 is parallel to the front center line QZ.

[0067] The front middle plate 1 is marked with a front middle chest circumference line 104, a front middle first a scale 106, a front middle second a scale 107, and a front middle armhole scale 111, wherein the front middle chest circumference line 104 coincides with the chest circumference line BL of the prototype, the front middle chest circumference line 104 passes through the intersection point of the front middle chest width line 101 and the front middle auxiliary line 102, and the front middle chest circumference line 104 is perpendicular to the front center line QZ.

[0068] The first a scale mark 106 and the second a scale mark 107 at the front center are for controlling the amount of shift when the front chest width F is adjusted. The first a scale mark 106 is marked on the front chest circumference line 104, and the length direction of the scale corresponding to the first a scale mark 106 is parallel to the front chest circumference line 104. The second a scale mark 107 at the front center is arranged at intervals directly below the first a scale mark 106. To facilitate marking the scale on the fabric, the front center panel 1 corresponding to the first a scale mark 106 and / or the second a scale mark 107 is designed with a cutout or notch. The origin of the scale marks 106 and 107 is located on the front chest width line 101.

[0069] In this embodiment, the scale range of the first a scale 106 in the front center is from 0 to 3mm. The scale origin is located at the intersection of the front center chest width line 101 and the front center auxiliary line 102. The smallest scale is 1mm, corresponding to a change of 2cm in chest circumference. The scale reading increases towards the front center line QZ. Preferably, the scales of the first a scale 106 and the second a scale 107 in the front center are consistent with the scales to the right of the origin 0 of the first a scale 204 and the second a scale 205 on the front side, and the colors are also consistent. In this embodiment, they are all red.

[0070] The front center armhole mark 111 is marked on the front center line QZ, meaning that the length direction of the scale corresponding to the front center armhole mark 111 is parallel to the front center line QZ. The origin 0 of the front center armhole mark 111 is the intersection of the front center bust line 104 and the front center line QZ, and the scale reading increases downwards.

[0071] In this embodiment, the front armhole scale 111 is distributed downwards from the intersection of the front center bust line 104 and the front center line QZ with scales of 0.7, 1.3, and 2, in cm, corresponding to the lowest point (lower end point) of the front armhole arc QX when the bust circumference is enlarged by 2cm, 4cm, and 6cm respectively.

[0072] The front middle plate 1 is also provided with a BP point for through holes, a front middle first fixing button bottom 108 and a front middle second fixing button bottom 109.

[0073] Front side panel 2 Figure 6 As shown, the outline of the front panel 2 includes the front armhole curve QX, the front underarm line 211, the front waistline 201, the front auxiliary line 202, and the front shoulder line 203, which are connected sequentially in a counterclockwise direction. The front shoulder line 203 and the front armhole curve QX are connected and their intersection point is the front shoulder sleeve point P1. The front panel 2 is marked with the front first a scale 204, the front second a scale 205, the front first b scale 206, the front second b scale 207, the front armhole scale 213, and the front bust line 210, wherein the front bust line 210 coincides with the bust line BL of the prototype.

[0074] The front side first a scale 204 and the front side second a scale 205 are used to control the pushing amount when the front chest width F is scaled. The front side first a scale 204 is marked on the front side bust line 210, that is, the length direction of the front side first a scale 204 is parallel to the front side bust line 210. The front side second a scale 205 is arranged below the front side first a scale 204. In order to mark the scale on the fabric, the front side first a scale 204 and / or the front side second a scale 205 are provided with hollows or notches on the corresponding front side plate 2.

[0075] In the embodiment, the scale range of the front side first a scale 204 and the front side second a scale 205 is 6 mm, and the minimum scale is 1 mm. The scale origin 0 is in the middle, and there are 3 mm scales on the left and right sides of the scale origin 0. Figure 11

[0076] Preferably, in order to distinguish, the left and right scales of the front side first a scale 204 and the front side second a scale 205 are represented by different colors. In the embodiment, the left and right scales of the front side first a scale 204 and the front side second a scale 205 are blue and red respectively, so as to align the scales when pushing.

[0077] The front side first b scale 206 and the front side second b scale 207 are used to control the scaling amount of the front side S1. The front side first b scale 206 is marked on the front side bust line 210. The front side second b scale 207 is arranged below the front side first b scale 206 and is marked on the front side waist line 201. Similarly, in order to mark the scale on the fabric, the front side first b scale 206 and / or the front side second b scale 207 are provided with hollows or notches on the corresponding front side plate 2.

[0078] In the embodiment, the scale range of the front side first b scale 206 is 24 mm. As shown in Figure 12 , the right side of the scale origin 0 is sequentially distributed with scales of 5 mm, 10 mm and 15 mm, which respectively correspond to a 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm reduction in the chest circumference. The left side of the scale origin 0 is sequentially distributed with scales of 3 mm, 6 mm and 9 mm, which respectively correspond to a 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm increase in the chest circumference. The scale origin is the front armpit sleeve point E1.

[0079] ​The scale marks on the front side second b scale 207 correspond to the scale marks on the front side first b scale 206 respectively, and the line segment connecting the scale marks on the front side second b scale 207 and the corresponding scale marks on the front side first b scale 206 is the front side seam line QC of the current pattern. Preferably, the scale marks on the front side second b scale 207 are the same as the scale marks on the front side first b scale 206. The scale origin of the front side second b scale 207 is the front axillary waist point F1 of the basic pattern.

[0080] The front underarm line 211 comprises a front scale segment and a front body segment connected in sequence, the front scale segment and the front body segment are connected into a broken line, and the front body segment is parallel to the side seam line C of the basic pattern. The front side armhole scale 213 is marked on the scale segment of the front underarm line 211. The scales of the front side armhole scale 213 correspond to the scales of the front middle armhole scale 111 respectively, specifically, the line connecting one scale of the front side armhole scale 213 and the corresponding scale on the front middle armhole scale 111 is parallel to the bust line BL. In addition, the scales on the front side armhole scale 213 correspond to the scales on the left side of the origin of the front side first b scale 206 respectively, and the line connecting one scale of the front side armhole scale 213 and the corresponding scale on the front side first b scale 206 is parallel to the side seam line C.

[0081] The intersection of the front scale segment and the front side bust line 210 is the origin 0 of the front side first b scale 206, and is also the origin 0 of the front side armhole scale 213. The reading of the scale of the front side armhole scale 213 increases downward.

[0082] In the embodiment, the front side armhole scale 213 is distributed with scales 0.7, 1.3, 2 downward from the origin, and the unit is cm, corresponding to the lowest point (lower end point) of the front armhole arc line QX when the bust is enlarged by 2 cm, 4 cm, 6 cm.

[0083] In the embodiment, the front body segment of the front underarm line 211 is the front side seam line QC when the bust is enlarged by 6 cm.

[0084] The front side plate 2 is further provided with a front side first fixing button surface 208 and a front side second fixing button surface 209 which are through holes.

[0085] The front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 can be fixedly connected together, specifically, after aligning the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 at the target position, the front middle first fixed knob bottom 108 and the first fixed knob surface 208 will be communicated, the front middle second fixed knob bottom 109 and the front side second fixed knob surface 209 will be communicated, a threaded fastener is passed through the front middle first fixed knob bottom 108 and the first fixed knob surface 208 and is locked by a nut, and another threaded fastener is passed through the front middle second fixed knob bottom 109 and the front side second fixed knob surface 209 and is locked by a nut. It should be noted that the end of the fastener and the end of the nut do not exceed the bottom plate after the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 are combined, so as not to affect the use of the template on the cloth marking.

[0086] Based on the above structure, the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 are nested, and the front piece Q of the basic prototype and the front piece Q prototype after scaling change on the basic prototype can be obtained by partially overlapping and fixing them at different positions. Specifically, as shown in Figure 5 the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 are partially overlapped, the front middle chest circumference line 104 and the front side chest circumference line 210 are located on the same straight line, the origin 0 scale on the front middle first a scale 106 is aligned with the origin 0 scale on the front side first a scale 204, and the origin 0 scale on the front middle second a scale 107 is aligned with the origin 0 scale on the front side second a scale 205, at this time, the front piece Q of the basic prototype can be obtained. Among them, the intersection of the front collar arc line QL and the front middle shoulder line 103 is the front shoulder collar point O1, the intersection of the front sleeve gusset arc line QX and the front side shoulder line 203 is the front shoulder sleeve point P1, the origin 0 of the front side first b scale 206 is the front axillary sleeve point E1, the origin 0 of the front side second b scale 207 is the front axillary waist point F1, and the origin of the front side first a scale 204 and the origin of the front side second a scale 205 pass through the front chest width line L1.

[0087] Based on the above points, the front piece Q of the basic prototype can be determined, as shown in Figure 5 the straight line passing through the origin 0 of the front side first a scale 204 and the origin 0 of the front side second a scale 205 is the front chest width line L1, the connecting line of the front shoulder collar point O1 and the front shoulder sleeve point P1 is the front shoulder line QJ, the front collar arc line QL of the front middle plate 1 is the front collar arc line QL of the basic prototype, the front center line QZ of the front middle plate 1 is the front center line QZ of the basic prototype, the first front waist segment line QY of the front middle plate 1 is the first front waist segment line QY of the basic prototype, the connecting line of the intersection of the first front waist segment line QY and the front middle second waist segment line 110 and the front axillary waist point F1 is the second front waist segment line QYF, the connecting line of the front axillary sleeve point E1 and the front axillary waist point F1 is the front side seam line QC, and finally the front sleeve gusset arc line QX is drawn, the two endpoints of the front sleeve gusset arc line QX are the front shoulder sleeve point P1 and the front axillary sleeve point E1 respectively and are tangent to the front chest width line L1. Figure 5 The middle shadow is the overlapping part of the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 when they are nested into the basic prototype front piece Q.

[0088] To facilitate the movement of the front center plate 1 and the front side plate 2 on the fabric when they are nested, the front or back side of the front side plate 2 is designed as a stepped shape, and the back or front side of the front center plate 1 is designed as a stepped shape, so that the total thickness of the overlapping part after the front center plate 1 and the front side plate 2 overlap is not greater than the thickness of the non-overlapping part. The back side refers to the side that contacts the fabric, and the front side refers to the side that does not contact the fabric.

[0089] In this embodiment, the back of the front side panel 2 is stepped, and the back of the front side panel 2 has a front dividing line 212. The front of the front center panel 1 is stepped, and the front of the front center panel 1 has a front center dividing line 112. The thickness of the left side of the front dividing line 212 (the side near the front armhole curve QX) is equal to the thickness of the right side of the front center dividing line 112 of the front center panel 1 (the side near the front neckline curve QL). Let this thickness be the panel thickness. The sum of the thickness of the right side of the front dividing line 212 (the side near the front auxiliary line 202) and the thickness of the left side of the front center dividing line 112 (the side near the front center auxiliary line 102) is not greater than the panel thickness. When the front center panel 1 and the front side panel 2 are nested, the right side of the front dividing line 212 overlaps the left side of the front center dividing line 112.

[0090] In this embodiment, the thickness on the left side of the front dividing line 212 and the thickness on the right side of the front middle dividing line 112 are both 0.4cm, and the thickness on the right side of the front dividing line 212 and the thickness on the left side of the front middle dividing line 112 are both 0.15cm.

[0091] It should be noted that, in order to make it easier to see the scales on each plate, the front middle plate 1, front side plate 2, rear middle plate 3, and rear side plate 4 can be made of transparent material.

[0092] When the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2 are nested to form the front piece Q of the basic prototype, the front dividing line 212 is parallel to the line formed by connecting the front center chest width line 101 and the front center auxiliary line 102, and the distance △1 between this connecting line and the front dividing line 212 is 0.5cm. The front center dividing line 112 is parallel to the front auxiliary line 202, and the distance △2 between the front center dividing line 112 and the front auxiliary line 202 is 0.5cm. Figure 5 As shown. The arrangement of △1 and △2 facilitates the push-pull translation between the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2.

[0093] Rear middle plate 3 Figure 9 As shown, the outline of the back center plate 3 includes the back neckline curve HL, the back center line HZ, the back waistline 301, the back chest width line 302, the back auxiliary line 303, and the back shoulder line 304, which are connected sequentially in a counterclockwise direction. The back shoulder line 304 and the back neckline curve HL are connected, and their intersection point is the back shoulder neckline point O2. The back waistline 301 is perpendicular to the back center line HZ.

[0094] The back middle plate 3 is marked with a back middle chest circumference line 305, a back middle first a scale 306, a back middle second a scale 307 and a back middle armhole scale 310, wherein the back middle chest circumference line 305 coincides with the chest circumference line BL of the original pattern, and the back middle chest circumference line 305 passes through the intersection of the back middle chest width line 302 and the back middle auxiliary line 303.

[0095] The back middle first a scale 306 and the back middle second a scale 307 are used to facilitate the control of the displacement amount when the back width B is enlarged or reduced. The back middle first a scale 306 is marked on the back middle chest circumference line 305, and the back middle first a scale 306 is parallel to the back middle chest circumference line 305 in the length direction of the scale. The back middle second a scale 307 is arranged below the back middle first a scale 306 at intervals. In order to facilitate marking on the fabric by referring to the scale, the back middle plate 3 corresponding to the back middle first a scale 306 and / or the back middle second a scale 307 is provided with a hollow or a notch. The scale origin 0 of the back middle first a scale 306 and the scale origin 0 of the back middle second a scale 307 are located on the back middle chest width line 302.

[0096] In the embodiment, the back middle first a scale 306 is provided in the same way as the front middle first a scale 106, the scale range is from 0 mm to 3 mm, the scale origin 0 is located at the intersection of the back middle chest width line 302 and the back middle auxiliary line 303, the smallest scale is 1 mm, and the scale reading increases in the direction towards the back center line HZ, corresponding to a change of 2 cm in the chest circumference.

[0097] In the embodiment, the back middle second a scale 307 is provided on the back middle waist line 301.

[0098] The back middle armhole scale 310 is marked on the back center line HZ, that is, the back middle armhole scale 310 is parallel to the back center line HZ in the length direction of the scale. The back middle armhole scale 310 takes the intersection of the back middle chest circumference line 305 and the back center line HZ as the origin, and the scale reading increases in the downward direction.

[0099] In the embodiment, the back middle armhole scale 310 is sequentially distributed with scales 0.7, 1.3 and 2, in cm, from the intersection of the back middle chest circumference line 305 and the back center line HZ, corresponding to the lowest point (lower end point) of the back armhole arc line HX when the chest circumference is enlarged by 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm, respectively.

[0100] The back middle plate 3 is further provided with a back middle first fixing button bottom 308 and a back middle second fixing button bottom 309 which are through holes.

[0101] The back side plate 4 is as shown in Figure 10As shown, the profile line of the back side plate 4 comprises, in sequence along the clockwise direction, a back armhole arc line HX, a back underarm line 400, a back side waist line 401, a back side auxiliary line 402, and a back side shoulder line 403, the back side shoulder line 403 and the back armhole arc line HX are connected and the intersection point is a back shoulder sleeve point P2. The back side plate 4 is marked with a back side first a scale 404, a back side second a scale 405, a back side first c scale 406, a back side second c scale 407, a back side armhole scale 412, and a back side bust line 410, wherein the back side bust line 410 coincides with the bust line BL of the original pattern.

[0102] The back side first a scale 404 and the back side second a scale 405 are used to facilitate the control of the pushing amount when the back width B is scaled. The back side first a scale 404 is marked on the back side bust line 410, that is, the length direction of the scale corresponding to the back side first a scale 404 is parallel to the back side bust line 410. The back side second a scale 405 is arranged below the back side first a scale 404 in intervals, and the back side second a scale 405 is marked on the back side waist line 401. In order to facilitate the marking of the scale on the fabric, the back side plate 4 corresponding to the back side first a scale 404 and / or the back side second a scale 405 is provided with a hollow or a notch.

[0103] In this embodiment, the scale range of the back side first a scale 404 and the back side second a scale 405 is 6mm, and the minimum scale is 1mm, wherein the scale origin 0 is in the middle, and there are 3mm scales on both sides of the scale origin 0.

[0104] Preferably, the scale colors on both sides of the scale origin 0 of the back side first a scale 404 and the back side second a scale 405 are different, which is consistent with the front side first a scale 204 and the front side second a scale 205. Similarly, the scale of the back middle first a scale 306 and the back middle second a scale 307 is consistent with the scale on the left side of the scale origin 0 of the back side first a scale 404 and the back side second a scale 405, and the color is also consistent.

[0105] The back side first c scale 406 and the back side second c scale 407 are used to facilitate the control of the back side S2 scaling amount. The back side first c scale 406 is marked on the back side bust line 410. The back side second c scale 407 is arranged below the back side first c scale 406 in intervals, and the back side second c scale 407 is marked on the back side waist line 401. Similarly, in order to facilitate the marking of the scale on the fabric, the back side plate 4 corresponding to the back side first c scale 406 and / or the back side second c scale 407 is provided with a hollow or a notch.

[0106] In the embodiment, the first c-scale 406 on the back side ranges from 24 mm, wherein the scale origin 0 is located in the middle, and the scales 3 mm, 6 mm, and 9 mm are sequentially distributed from the scale origin 0 to the left, respectively corresponding to the chest circumference reduction of 2 cm, 4 cm, and 6 cm. The scales 5 mm, 10 mm, and 15 mm are sequentially distributed from the scale origin 0 to the right, respectively corresponding to the chest circumference enlargement of 2 cm, 4 cm, and 6 cm. The scale origin is the back armpit sleeve point E1' of the basic prototype. As shown in the figure. Figure 12

[0107] The scale marks on the second c-scale 407 on the back side correspond to the scale marks on the first c-scale 406 on the back side, so that the line segment connecting the scale mark on the second c-scale 407 on the back side and the corresponding scale mark on the first c-scale 406 on the back side is the back side seam line HC of the current version. Preferably, the scale marks on the second c-scale 407 on the back side are the same as the scale marks on the first c-scale 406 on the back side. Obviously, the scale origin 0 of the second c-scale 407 on the back side is the back armpit waist point F1' of the basic prototype.

[0108] The back armpit line 400 comprises a back scale segment and a back body segment sequentially connected, the back scale segment and the back body segment are connected into a broken line, and the back body segment is parallel to the side seam line C of the basic prototype. The back side sleeve gusset scale 412 is marked on the scale segment of the back armpit line 400. The scales of the back side sleeve gusset scale 412 correspond to the scales of the back middle sleeve gusset scale 310 respectively. Specifically, the line connecting one scale of the back side sleeve gusset scale 412 and the corresponding scale on the back middle sleeve gusset scale 310 is parallel to the chest circumference line BL. In addition, the scales on the back side sleeve gusset scale 412 correspond to the scales on the right side of the scale origin of the first c-scale 406 on the back side respectively, and the line connecting one scale of the back side sleeve gusset scale 412 and the corresponding scale on the first c-scale 406 on the back side is parallel to the side seam line C.

[0109] The intersection of the back scale segment and the back side chest circumference line 410 is the scale origin 0 of the first c-scale 406 on the back side, and is also the scale origin 0 of the back side sleeve gusset scale 412. The scale reading of the back side sleeve gusset scale 412 increases downward.

[0110] In the embodiment, the back side sleeve gusset scale 412 sequentially distributes the scales 0.7, 1.3, and 2 cm downward from the scale origin, corresponding to the bottom point (lower end point) of the back sleeve gusset arc line HX when the chest circumference is enlarged by 2 cm, 4 cm, and 6 cm respectively.

[0111] The back side plate 4 is further provided with the first back side fixing button surface 408 and the second back side fixing button surface 409 which are through holes.

[0112] The back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 can also be fixedly connected together, and the fixing manner is the same as that of the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2, which will not be described herein.

[0113] ​Based on the above structure, the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 are nested, they are partially overlapped and fixed in different positions to obtain the back piece H of the basic prototype and the back piece H prototype after scaling the amount of change on the basic prototype. Specifically, the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 are partially overlapped, the back middle chest circumference line 305 and the back side chest circumference line 410 are located on the same straight line, the origin 0 scale on the back middle first a scale 306 and the origin 0 scale on the back side first a scale 404 are aligned, the origin 0 scale on the back middle second a scale 307 and the origin 0 scale on the back side second a scale 405 are aligned, at this time, the back piece H of the basic prototype can be obtained, as shown in Figure 8 The intersection of the back collar arc line HL and the back middle shoulder line 304 is the back shoulder collar point O2, the intersection of the back sleeve gusset arc line HX and the back side shoulder line 403 is the back shoulder sleeve point P2, the origin 0 of the back side first c scale 406 is the back armpit sleeve point E1' of the basic prototype, the origin 0 of the back side second c scale 407 is the back armpit waist point F1' of the basic prototype, and the origin of the back side first a scale 404 and the origin of the back side second a scale 405 pass through the back width line L2.

[0114] Based on the above points, the back piece H of the basic prototype can be determined: the line passing through the origin of the back side first a scale 404 and the origin of the back side second a scale 405 is the back width line L2, the line connecting the back shoulder collar point O2 and the back shoulder sleeve point P2 is the back shoulder line HJ, the back collar arc line HL of the back middle plate 3 is the back collar arc line HL of the prototype, the back center line HZ of the back middle plate 3 is the back center line HZ of the prototype, the line connecting the lower end point of the back center line HZ and the back armpit waist point F1' is the back waist section line HY of the prototype, the line connecting the back armpit sleeve point E1' and the back armpit waist point F1' is the back side seam line HC, and finally the back sleeve gusset arc line HX is drawn. The two end points of the back sleeve gusset arc line HX are the back shoulder sleeve point P2 and the back armpit sleeve point E1' respectively and are tangent to the back width line L2. As shown in Figure 8 The shadow in the figure is the overlapping part of the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 when they are nested into the back piece H of the basic prototype.

[0115] In order to facilitate the movement of the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 on the cloth when they are nested, the back of the back middle plate 3 or the front is stepped, the front or the back of the back side plate 4 is stepped, so that the total thickness of the overlapping part of the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 after nesting is not greater than the thickness of the non-overlapping part.

[0116] In this embodiment, the back of the back side plate 4 is stepped, the back of the back side plate 4 has a back side boundary line 411, the front of the back middle plate 3 is stepped, and the front of the back middle plate 3 has a back middle boundary line 311, as shown in Figures 8-10The thickness of the right side of the back side boundary line 411 (the side close to the back armhole curve HX) is equal to the thickness of the left side of the back center boundary line 311 (the side close to the back center line HZ), and the thickness of the left side of the back side boundary line 411 (the side close to the back side auxiliary line 402) and the thickness of the right side of the back center boundary line 311 (the side close to the back center auxiliary line 303) are not greater than the thickness. When the back center plate 3 and the back side plate 4 are nested, the left side of the back side boundary line 411 is stacked on the right side of the back center boundary line 311.

[0117] In this embodiment, the thickness of the right side of the back side boundary line 411 and the left side of the back center boundary line 311 is 0.4 cm, and the thickness of the left side of the back side boundary line 411 and the right side of the back center boundary line 311 is 0.15 cm.

[0118] When the back center plate 3 and the back side plate 4 are nested into the back piece H of the basic prototype, the back side boundary line 411 is parallel to the line formed by the back center chest width line 302 and the back center auxiliary line 303, and the distance Δ3 between the line and the back side boundary line 411 is 0.5 cm, and the back center boundary line 311 is parallel to the back center line HZ and the back side auxiliary line 402, and the distance Δ4 between the back center boundary line 311 and the back side auxiliary line 402 is 0.5 cm, as shown in Figure 8 The setting of Δ3 and Δ4 facilitates the push-pull translation between the back center plate 3 and the back side plate 4.

[0119] The following is an example to illustrate the relaxation of the chest circumference on the basic prototype. The chest circumference on the basic prototype is reduced by 2 cm, i.e. x = 2.

[0120] Then the front piece template operation is as follows, as shown in Figure 13 The red line shows the reduced contour (the red line shows the reduced contour).

[0121] First, complete the reduction of the front chest width F: nest the front center plate 1 and the front side plate 2, so that the front center chest circumference line 104 of the front center plate 1 and the front side chest circumference line 210 of the front side plate 2 are on the same straight line, the origin 0 scale on the front side first a scale 204 is aligned with the 1 mm scale on the right side of the front center first a scale 106, the origin 0 scale on the front side second a scale 205 is aligned with the 1 mm scale on the right side of the origin 0 of the front center second a scale 107, mark the origin 0 scale on the front side first a scale 204 and the origin 0 scale on the front side second a scale 205, and the line connecting the two scales is the front chest width line L1 of the current prototype, and then fix the front center plate 1 and the front side plate 2.

[0122] Second, complete the reduction of the front side S1: mark the 0.5 cm scale on the right side of the origin 0 of the front side first b scale 206 as point E2; mark the 0.5 cm scale on the right side of the origin 0 of the front side second b scale 207 as point F2, and the line connecting point E2 and point F2 is the front side seam line QC.

[0123] Third step, draw the front collar arc line QL, the front center line QZ, the first front waist line QY, mark the front shoulder sleeve point P1 and the front shoulder collar point O1.

[0124] Fourth step, remove the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2, connect the point E2 and the point F2 on the bottom plate (cloth), which is the front side seam line QC; connect the end point of the first front waist line QY and the point F2, which is the second front waist line QYF; connect the front shoulder collar point O1 and the front shoulder sleeve point P1, which is the front shoulder line QJ.

[0125] Fifth step, draw the front sleeve dart arc line QX: the two end points are the front shoulder sleeve point P1 and the point E2, and tangent to the front chest width line L1.

[0126] Thus, the prototype front piece with a chest circumference reduction of 2 cm is obtained, and the garment structure is designed using the reduced prototype.

[0127] The back piece template is operated as follows, as shown (the reduced contour line is displayed in red): Figure 14

[0128] First step, complete the reduction of the back width B: nest the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4, so that the back middle chest circumference line 305 of the back middle plate 3 and the back side chest circumference line 410 of the back side plate 4 are on the same straight line, the 0mm scale of the back side first a scale 404 and the 1mm scale on the back middle first a scale 306 are aligned, the 0mm scale of the back side second a scale 405 and the 1mm scale on the back middle second a scale 307 are aligned, mark the 0mm scale of the back side first a scale 404 and the 0mm scale of the back side second a scale 405 on the bottom plate, and the connecting line of the two scales is the back width line L2, and the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4 are fixed.

[0129] Second step, complete the reduction of the back side S2: mark the 0.3cm scale to the left of the 0mm scale of the back side first c scale 406 as point E2'; mark the 0.3cm scale to the left of the 0mm scale of the back side second c scale 407 as point F2', and the connecting line of the point E2' and the point F2' is the back side seam line HC.

[0130] Third step, draw the back collar arc line HL and the back center line HZ, and mark the back shoulder sleeve point P2 and the back shoulder collar point O2.

[0131] Fourth step, remove the back middle plate 3 and the back side plate 4, connect the point E2' and the point F2' on the bottom plate (cloth), which is the back side seam line HC; connect the end point of the back center line HZ and the point F2', which is the back waist line HY; connect the back shoulder collar point O2 and the back shoulder sleeve point P2, which is the back shoulder line HJ.

[0132] ​Step 5, draw the back sleeve notch arc line HX: two end points are back shoulder sleeve point P2 and point E2' and tangent to the back width line L2.

[0133] Thus, the prototype back piece with the chest circumference reduced by 2 cm is obtained, and the garment structure is designed by using the reduced prototype.

[0134] The chest circumference enlargement operation method on the basic prototype and the chest circumference reduction operation method are the same, except that the specific alignment points are different. Specifically, the chest circumference on the basic prototype is enlarged by 2 cm, i.e. x = 2.

[0135] Then the front piece template operation method is as follows, as shown in Figure 15 .

[0136] Step 1, complete the enlargement of the front chest width F: nest the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2, so that the front middle chest circumference line 104 of the front middle plate 1 and the front side chest circumference line 210 of the front side plate 2 are on the same straight line, the origin 0 scale on the front middle first a scale 106 and the 1 mm scale right of the origin 0 on the front side first a scale 204 are aligned, the origin 0 scale on the front middle second a scale 107 and the 1 mm scale right of the origin 0 on the front side second a scale 205 are aligned. Mark the origin 0 scale on the front side first a scale 204 and the origin 0 scale on the front side second a scale 205, and the line connecting the two scales is the front chest width line L1 of the current prototype. Fix the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2.

[0137] Step 2, complete the enlargement of the front side S1: mark the 0.7 cm scale of the front side sleeve notch scale 213 (corresponding to the 0.3 cm scale left of the origin 0 on the front side first b scale 206), which is marked as point E2; mark the 0.3 cm scale left of the origin 0 on the front side second b scale 207, which is marked as point F2. The line connecting point E2 and point F2 is the front side seam line QC.

[0138] Step 3, draw the front collar arc line QL, the front center line QZ, and the first front waist segment line QY, and mark the front shoulder sleeve point P1 and the front middle sleeve notch scale 111.

[0139] Step 4, remove the front middle plate 1 and the front side plate 2, and connect point E2 and point F2 on the bottom plate (fabric) to obtain the front side seam line QC; connect the end point of the first front waist segment line QY and point F2 to obtain the second front waist segment line QYF; and connect the front shoulder collar point O1 and the front shoulder sleeve point P1 to obtain the front shoulder line QJ.

[0140] Step 5, draw the front sleeve notch arc line QX: two end points are the front shoulder sleeve point P1 and point E2 and tangent to the front chest width line L1.

[0141] Thus, the prototype front piece with the chest circumference enlarged by 2 cm is obtained, and the garment structure is designed by using the enlarged prototype.

[0142] The back piece template is operated as follows, as shown (enlarged rear profile line is shown in green): Figure 16

[0143] First step, complete the enlargement of the back width B: nest the back center plate 3 and the back side plate 4, so that the back center chest circumference line 305 of the back center plate 3 and the back side chest circumference line 410 of the back side plate 4 are on the same straight line, the 0 scale on the back center first a scale 306 and the 1mm scale left of the 0 scale on the back side first a scale 404 are aligned, the 0 scale on the back center second a scale 307 and the 1mm scale left of the 0 scale on the back side second a scale 405 are aligned, the 0 scale on the back side first a scale 404 and the 0 scale on the back side second a scale 405 are marked on the base plate, and the straight line passing through the two scales is the back width line L2, and the back center plate 3 and the back side plate 4 are fixed.

[0144] Second step, complete the enlargement of the back side S2: mark the 0.7cm scale on the back side sleeve notch scale 412 (corresponding to the 0.5cm scale right of the 0 scale on the back side first c scale 406), which is point E2'; mark the 0.5cm scale right of the 0 scale on the back side second c scale 407, which is point F2', and the line connecting point E2' and point F2' is the back side seam line HC.

[0145] Third step, draw the back collar arc line HL, the back center line HZ, and mark the back shoulder sleeve point P2 and the back center sleeve notch scale 310.

[0146] Fourth step, remove the back center plate 3 and the back side plate 4, and connect point E2' and point F2' on the base plate (fabric), which is the back side seam line HC; connect the end point of the back center line HZ and point F2', which is the back waist section line HY; and connect the back shoulder collar point O2 and the back shoulder sleeve point P2, which is the back shoulder line HJ.

[0147] Fifth step, draw the back sleeve notch arc line HX: the two end points are the back shoulder sleeve point P2 and point E2' and are tangent to the back width line L2.

[0148] Thus, the prototype front piece with a chest circumference enlargement of 2cm is obtained, and the enlarged prototype is used to design the garment structure.

[0149] Finally, it is necessary to point out that the above examples are only used to further illustrate the technical solutions of the present application and cannot be understood as limiting the protection scope of the present application, and some non-essential improvements and adjustments made by the person skilled in the art based on the above content of the present application all belong to the protection scope of the present application.​

Claims

1. A method for scaling a prototype of a women's top, characterized in that, First, a basic prototype is determined, then a chest circumference reduction amount is determined, and finally the chest circumference reduction amount is distributed to the front chest width, back width, front side and back side according to a set ratio on the basic prototype to obtain a scaled prototype; The female upper garment prototype comprises a front piece (Q) and a back piece (H), the front piece (Q) and the back piece (H) are divided by a side seam line (C), the front piece (Q) comprises a front armhole arc line (QX), a front center line (QZ) and a front side seam line (QC), the back piece (H) comprises a back armhole arc line (HX), a back center line (HZ) and a back side seam line (HC), the front center line (QZ) and the back center line (HZ) are parallel, the front armhole arc line (QX) and the back armhole arc line (HX) are connected to form an armhole, the front side seam line (QC) and the back side seam line (HC) overlap to form the side seam line (C), a front chest width line (L1) divides the front piece (Q) of the prototype into a front middle panel (1) and a front side panel (2), the front chest width line (L1) is parallel to the front center line (QZ) and is tangent to the front armhole arc line (QX), the front middle panel (1) is a part containing the front center line (QZ), the front side panel (2) is a part containing the front armhole arc line (QX), a back width line (L2) divides the back piece (H) of the prototype into a back middle panel (3) and a back side panel (4), the back width line (L2) is parallel to the back center line (HZ) and is tangent to the back armhole arc line (HX), the back middle panel (3) is a part containing the back center line (HZ), the back side panel (4) is a part containing the back armhole arc line (HX), the front chest width is the length of a chest circumference line (BL) between the front center line (QZ) and the front chest width line (L1), the front side is the length of the chest circumference line (BL) between the side seam line (C) and the front chest width line (L1), the back width is the length of the chest circumference line (BL) between the back center line (HZ) and the back width line (L2), and the back side is the length of the chest circumference line (BL) between the side seam line (C) and the back width line (L2).

2. The scaling method of claim 1, wherein: When the chest circumference is reduced, the chest circumference reduction amount is distributed according to the ratio of front chest width:back width:back side:front side=1:1:2:

4.

3. The scaling method of claim 1, wherein: When the chest circumference is enlarged, the chest circumference enlargement amount is distributed according to the ratio of front chest width:back width:front side:back side=1:1:2:

4.

4. A scaling template based on the scaling method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that, The front middle panel (1), the front side panel (2), the back middle panel (3) and the back side panel (4) are all in a plate shape; The front middle plate (1) is provided with a front middle first a scale (106) and a front middle second a scale (107), and the front side plate (2) is provided with a front side first a scale (204), a front side second a scale (205), a front side first b scale (206) and a front side second b scale (207). The front middle first a scale (106) and the front side first a scale (204) are aligned at different scale positions, and the front middle second a scale (107) and the front side second a scale (205) are aligned at different scale positions. The line connecting the two alignment points is the front chest wide line (L1) of the scaled prototype, so as to realize the adjustment of the front chest width. The line connecting the different scale points on the front side first b scale (206) and the different scale points on the front side second b scale (207) is the front side seam line (QC) of the front piece (Q) of the scaled prototype, so as to realize the adjustment of the front side. The back middle plate (3) is provided with a back middle first a scale (306) and a back middle second a scale (307), and the back side plate (4) is provided with a back side first a scale (404), a back side second a scale (405), a back side first c scale (406) and a back side second c scale (407). The back middle first a scale (306) and the back side first a scale (404) are aligned at different positions, and the back middle second a scale (307) and the back side second a scale (405) are aligned at different positions. The line connecting the two alignment points is the back chest wide line (L2) of the scaled prototype, so as to realize the adjustment of the back chest width. The line connecting the different scale points on the back side first c scale (406) and the different scale points on the back side second c scale (407) is the back side seam line (HC) of the back piece (H) of the scaled prototype, so as to realize the adjustment of the back side.

5. The pantograph template of claim 4, wherein: The front middle plate (1) is provided with a front middle sleeve notch scale (111) for marking the lowest point of the front sleeve notch arc line (QX), and the back middle plate (3) is provided with a back middle sleeve notch scale (310) for marking the lowest point of the back sleeve notch arc line (HX).

6. A pantograph template according to claim 4 or 5, characterised in that: The scale range of the front middle first a scale (106), the front middle second a scale (107), the back middle first a scale (306) and the back middle second a scale (307) is 3mm, and the minimum scale is 1mm. The scale range of the front side first a scale (204), the front side second a scale (205), the back side first a scale (404) and the back side second a scale (405) is 6mm, and the minimum scale is 1mm. The scale origin 0 is located in the middle, and there are 3mm scales on the left and right sides of the scale origin 0. The minimum scale 1mm corresponds to the change amount of the front chest width or the back chest width when the chest circumference is enlarged by 2cm; The range of the front side first b scale (206) and the front side second b scale (207) is 24mm. The scale origin 0 is located in the middle. The right side of the origin 0 is sequentially distributed with scales of 5mm, 10mm and 15mm, respectively corresponding to a chest circumference reduction of 2cm, 4cm and 6cm. The left side of the origin 0 is sequentially distributed with scales of 3mm, 6mm and 9mm, respectively corresponding to a chest circumference enlargement of 2cm, 4cm and 6cm. The range of the back side first c scale (406) and the back side second c scale (407) is 24 mm, wherein the scale origin 0 is in the middle, the scales 3 mm, 6 mm and 9 mm are sequentially distributed from the scale origin 0 to the left side, and correspond to the chest circumference reduction of 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm respectively, and the scales 5 mm, 10 mm and 15 mm are sequentially distributed from the scale origin 0 to the right side, and correspond to the chest circumference enlargement of 2 cm, 4 cm and 6 cm respectively.

7. The pantograph template of claim 4, wherein: The contour line of the front middle plate (1) comprises a front collar arc line (QL), a front center line (QZ), a first front waist line (QY), a front middle second waist line (110), a front middle chest width line (101), a front middle auxiliary line (102) and a front middle shoulder line (103) connected in sequence along the clockwise direction, the front middle shoulder line (103) and the front collar arc line (QL) are connected and the intersection point is a front shoulder collar point (O1), the first front waist line (QY) is perpendicular to the front center line (QZ), and the intersection line of the first front waist line (QY) and the front middle second waist line (110) is parallel to the front center line (QZ); The contour line of the front side plate (2) comprises a front sleeve hole arc line (QX), a front underarm line (211), a front side waist line (201), a front side auxiliary line (202) and a front side shoulder line (203) connected in sequence along the counterclockwise direction, and the front side shoulder line (203) and the front sleeve hole arc line (QX) are connected and the intersection point is a front shoulder sleeve point (P1); After the front chest width line (L1) and the front side seam line (QC) are determined, the front collar arc line (QL), the front center line (QZ) and the first front waist line (QY) of the front middle plate (1) are the front collar arc line (QL), the front center line (QZ) and the first front waist line (QY) of the current prototype respectively, the intersection line of the lower end point of the front side seam line (QC) and the one end point of the front middle second waist line (110) connected to the first front waist line (QY) is the second front waist line (QYF) of the current prototype, the intersection line of the front shoulder collar point (O1) and the front shoulder sleeve point (P1) is the front shoulder line (QJ) of the current prototype, the front sleeve hole arc line (QX) of the current prototype is manually drawn, the two end points of the front sleeve hole arc line (QX) are the front shoulder sleeve point (P1) and the upper end point of the front side seam line (QC) respectively, and the front sleeve hole arc line (QX) is tangent to the front chest width line (L1).

8. The pantograph template according to claim 4 or 7, characterized in that: The contour line of the back middle plate (3) comprises a back collar arc line (HL), a back center line (HZ), a back middle waist line (301), a back middle chest width line (302), a back middle auxiliary line (303) and a back middle shoulder line (304) connected in sequence along the counterclockwise direction, the back middle shoulder line (304) and the back collar arc line (HL) are connected and the intersection point is a back shoulder collar point (O2), and the back middle waist line (301) is perpendicular to the back center line (HZ); The contour line of the back side plate (4) comprises a back sleeve hole arc line (HX), a back underarm line (400), a back side waist line (401), a back side auxiliary line (402) and a back side shoulder line (403) connected in sequence along the clockwise direction, and the back side shoulder line (403) and the back sleeve hole arc line (HX) are connected and the intersection point is a back shoulder sleeve point (P2); The contour line of the back middle plate (3) comprises a back collar arc line (HL), a back center line (HZ), a back middle waist line (301), a back middle chest width line (302), a back middle auxiliary line (303) and a back middle shoulder line (304) connected in sequence along the counterclockwise direction, the back middle shoulder line (304) and the back collar arc line (HL) are connected and the intersection point is a back shoulder collar point (O2), and the back middle waist line (301) is perpendicular to the back center line (HZ); After the back wide line (L2) and the back side seam line (HC) are determined, the back neck arc line (HL) and the back center line (HZ) of the back middle plate (3) are respectively the current prototype's back neck arc line (HL) and back center line (HZ), the line connecting the lower end point of the back side seam line (HC) and the lower end point of the back center line (HZ) is the current prototype's back waist line (HY), the line connecting the back shoulder neck point (O2) and the back shoulder sleeve point (P2) is the current prototype's back shoulder line (HJ), the current prototype's back sleeve gusset arc line (HX) is manually drawn, the two end points of the back sleeve gusset arc line (HX) are respectively the back shoulder sleeve point (P2) and the upper end point of the back side seam line (HC), and the back sleeve gusset arc line (HX) is tangent to the back wide line (L2).

9. The pantograph template of claim 4, wherein: The total thickness of the overlapping part of the front middle plate (1) and the front side plate (2) after overlapping is not greater than the thickness of the non-overlapping part of the front middle plate (1) and the front side plate (2), and the total thickness of the overlapping part of the back middle plate (3) and the back side plate (4) after overlapping is not greater than the thickness of the non-overlapping part of the back middle plate (3) and the back side plate (4).

10. The pantograph template of claim 5, wherein: The front underarm line (211) comprises a front scale segment and a front body segment connected in sequence, the front scale segment and the front body segment are connected into a broken line, the front body segment is parallel to the side seam line (C) of the basic prototype, the front scale segment is marked with a front side sleeve gusset scale (213), each scale of the front side sleeve gusset scale (213) corresponds to the horizontal height of each scale of the front middle sleeve gusset scale (111) respectively, the line connecting the scale of the front side sleeve gusset scale (213) and the scale corresponding thereto on the front middle sleeve gusset scale (111) is parallel to the chest circumference line (BL), and each scale on the front side sleeve gusset scale (213) also corresponds to each scale on the left side of the original point of the front side first b scale (206) respectively, the line connecting the scale of the front side sleeve gusset scale (213) and the scale corresponding thereto on the front side first b scale (206) is parallel to the side seam line (C); The back underarm line (400) comprises a back scale segment and a back body segment connected in sequence, the back scale segment and the back body segment are connected into a broken line, the back body segment is parallel to the side seam line (C) of the basic prototype, the back scale segment is marked with a back side sleeve gusset scale (412), each scale of the back side sleeve gusset scale (412) corresponds to the horizontal height of each scale of the back middle sleeve gusset scale (310) respectively, the line connecting the scale of the back side sleeve gusset scale (412) and the scale corresponding thereto on the back middle sleeve gusset scale (310) is parallel to the chest circumference line (BL), and each scale on the back side sleeve gusset scale (412) also corresponds to each scale on the right side of the original point of the back side first c scale (406) respectively, the line connecting the scale of the back side sleeve gusset scale (412) and the scale corresponding thereto on the back side first c scale (406) is parallel to the side seam line (C).

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