Composition comprising UV-screening agent, at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid and scleroglucan gum

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV-screening agent, at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one scleroglucan gum; the invention also relates to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological field, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for caring for the hair.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV screening agent, at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one scleroglucan gum; and also to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or the face, or for hair care. TECHNICAL FIELD

[0002] It is known that light radiation with a wavelength between 280 and 400 nm makes it possible to tan the human epidermis. Rays with a wavelength more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, called UVB rays, cause skin redness and sunburn, which can be harmful to the development of a natural tan.

[0003] For these reasons and also for aesthetic reasons, there has always been a need for means for controlling this natural tanning in order to thus control the colour of the skin; the UVB radiation should therefore be screened. It is also known that UVA rays with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, which tan the skin, can bring about harmful changes to the skin, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continuously exposed to solar radiation. The UVA rays in particular cause a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing of the skin.

[0004] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as protecting the natural elasticity of the skin, more and more people wish to control the effects of UVA rays on their skin. It is also desirable to screen the UVA radiation.

[0005] For the purpose of protecting the skin and keratin materials from UV radiation, photoprotective compositions comprising organic screening agents active in the UVA and UVB range are generally used.

[0006] To date, many cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection of the skin have been proposed. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid vehicle, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, one or more organic molecules capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, which are soluble in the oil and / or water phases. Mineral pigments using metal oxides such as titanium dioxide are increasingly frequently used in such sunscreen compositions, since these particles, because of their small size, are not visible to the naked eye, making it possible to increase the protection factor of the compositions containing them.

[0007] It is also known that, in order to achieve a high level of screening efficiency, it is necessary to have a high content of screening agent.

[0008] However, a high content of UV screening agent does not make it easy to produce a composition with a stable and pleasant texture in itself.

[0009] Thus, formulations with high screening power generally have unpleasant or even unpleasing organoleptic aspects that mask the freshness and comfort of the formulation. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations with high protection factors is often a strong, greasy and tacky sensation, and a texture that lacks lightness that is thus obtained, but also a whitening appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.

[0010] Furthermore, the introduction of high contents of UV screening agents often leads to instability problems. This instability can sometimes even lead to phase separation of the emulsion and / or loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation inefficient or even unusable.

[0011] One of the main drawbacks of these photoprotective emulsions containing organic screening agents and / or mineral screening agents lies in the difficulty of reconciling good product stability, easy product application, effective sun protection and a fresh, non-tacky sensation.

[0012] Furthermore, the daily photoprotection market is rapidly expanding. The number of hybrid products offering skin care and SPF 15-20 protection is increasing, but the challenge remains to have higher SPF values (for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50) and a pleasant organoleptic experience for daily application. In terms of consumer experience, the skincare world is still very different from the photoprotection world, thus increasing the complexity of formulation development.

[0013] Thus, there is a search for care products with high sun protection, while maintaining the sensory code of skin care: appearance, texture, consistency, organoleptic aspects.

[0014] In cosmetic applications, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is generally added as an active ingredient for regenerating the skin by stimulating the synthesis of collagen, which is responsible for the firmness of the skin, or also as a depigmenting agent, since this vitamin reduces the production of melanin, which is responsible for liver spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

[0015] However, when ascorbic acid is introduced in high content (i.e. for example, greater than 1% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight) into an aqueous medium such as an emulsion or a serum, it is difficult to formulate it because it destabilizes and drastically changes the colour.

[0016] This is why aqueous compositions of serum or solution type are found on the market, comprising ascorbic acid in the form of a powder to be dissolved at the time of use. The drawback of this type of product is that vitamin C ends up decomposing in the aqueous medium. Thus, these products lose their appeal since, for reasons of practicality, consumers prefer serums that do not require prior treatment, ensure colour stability and do not chemically decompose.

[0017] Moreover, the introduction of high content of vitamin C in a cosmetic composition can lead to instability of the formulation; for example, when the cosmetic composition is in the form of an emulsion, phase separation can be observed, with release of the oil phase.

[0018] Thus, there is a need for a cosmetic composition comprising a UV screening agent and ascorbic acid, which is stable, i.e. which maintains the same color, generally white, and the same texture as initially, and which does not degrade the active ingredients, while exhibiting high photoprotective properties.

[0019] The Applicant has surprisingly found that the presence of one or more scleroglucan gums in a screening composition makes it possible to introduce a high content of vitamin C into this composition, while maintaining effective sun protection and high stability of the composition. SUMMARY

[0020] Thus, the subject of the present application is a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0021] a) at least one UV screening agent;

[0022] b) at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0023] c) at least one scleroglucan gum.

[0024] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one UV screening agent, at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and at least one scleroglucan gum makes it possible to obtain a composition which is easy to spread, has high photoprotective power and remains stable over time, and also has good cosmetic properties, such as freshening power and a non-greasy and non-tacky texture.

[0025] According to another aspect of the application, one subject of the application is also the use of the composition as defined above for caring for keratin materials, in particular the body and / or facial skin.

[0026] According to yet another aspect of the application, another subject of the application is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the body and / or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0027] The application also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of keratin materials of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0028] The application also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratin materials, comprising the application to the surface of the keratin materials of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously.

[0029] The composition according to the application shows good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically after 24 hours, one week, one month or two months of storage at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C or at 55°C. A stable composition generally maintains its comfort and its organoleptic characteristics over time at the time of application. More particularly, the stability of the composition can be evaluated qualitatively, for example by the absence of any phase separation phenomenon or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively by monitoring the variation of a parameter such as the viscosity or the pH.

[0030] According to the application, the term "stable over time" is understood to mean that the composition exhibits only few macroscopic changes (such as changes in colour, odour, viscosity or pH) and also small microscopic appearance changes after one month, preferably after two months of storage at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 45°C.

[0031] In the context of the application, the screening efficacy is evaluated by evaluation of the SPF and the UVAPF.

[0032] For the purposes of the application, the term "SPF" means: sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time to obtain a sunburn with the photoprotective composition and the minimum time without using the product. More particularly, the term "SPF" is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0033] The evaluation of the SPF (sun protection factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the photoprotective composition is applied. For such a protocol, a plate of poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) proved to be ideal. The specific protocol is being approved by the ISO under the name of ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0034] The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition can also be carried out in vivo according to the ISO 24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".

[0035] For the purposes of the present application, the term "UVAPF" is understood to mean an index that characterizes the protection against UVA radiation. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigmentation) method (protocol ISO-24442:2022) by observing the color of the skin 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. The protection against UVA radiation can also be evaluated in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the sunscreen composition is applied. For such a protocol, a poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plate proved to be ideal. The ISO 24443:2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0036] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present application will become apparent upon reading the following detailed description.

[0037] The composition according to the present application is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

[0038] In the context of the present application, the term "keratin materials" means especially the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair and the body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, peri-ocular area, eyelids, lips, preferably the body, the face and the lips).

[0039] In the main body of the text hereafter, the limits of a range of values are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from... to...".

[0040] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in the present specification are equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to", respectively.

[0041] According to the present application, the terms "preventing" or "prevention" mean reducing the risk of occurrence of a given phenomenon, according to the present application, i.e. the signs of aging of keratin materials, or slowing down the occurrence of this given phenomenon.

[0042] The term "organic UVA screening agent" means any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing UVA radiation at least in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0043] The term "organic UVB screening agent" means any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing UVB radiation only in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the application, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0045] The term "emulsion" means any kinetically stable macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases, one phase being a continuous dispersed phase and the other phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the continuous phase. The two phases can be kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system, usually comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0046] There is a distinction between an oil-in-water type (called "direct") emulsion consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersed phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase and a water-in-oil type (called "inverse") emulsion consisting of a continuous oily dispersed phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. Multiple emulsions also exist, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0047] UV screening agent

[0048] The composition according to the application comprises at least one UV screening agent.

[0049] The UV screening agent can be chosen from lipophilic organic UV screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and inorganic UV screening agents.

[0050] Lipophilic organic UV screening agent

[0051] The term "organic lipophilic screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound used for screening UV radiation, which can be completely soluble in a liquid fatty phase in molecular form or which can be soluble in a liquid fatty phase in colloidal form, for example in the form of micelles.

[0052] The lipophilic organic screening agents are in particular chosen from cinnamic acid compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic acid compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphorene compounds; benzophenone compounds; beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazol compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93 / 04665; alpha-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981 ; and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Preferably, the lipophilic organic screening agent is chosen from salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphorene compounds, benzophenone compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] As examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents, mention can be made of those denoted below in their INCI name and / or their chemical name.

[0055] Cinnamic acid compounds:

[0056] Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol® MCX by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0057] Isoamyl p-methoxy cinnamate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,

[0058] Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

[0059] Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, in particular sold under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0060] Salicylic acid compounds:

[0061] Homosalate, sold under the name Parsol® HMS by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0062] Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by Symrise,

[0063] Beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compounds:

[0064] Octocrylene, in particular sold under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by BASF,

[0065] Benzophenone compounds:

[0066] Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzophenone, sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF,

[0067] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus by BASF, or as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B by BASF,

[0068] Benzylidenecamphor compounds:

[0069] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, sold under the name Eusolex® 6300 by Merck,

[0070] Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

[0071] Methylphenylsoltriazole trisiloxane, produced under the name Mexoryl® XL by Noveal,

[0072] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0073] Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical,

[0074] Triazine compounds:

[0075] - 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine) having the INCI name phenylene bis-benzotriazyl,

[0076] - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, sold under the trade name Parsol Shield® by DSM and under the trade name Tinosorb® S by BASF,

[0077] - Ethylhexyl triazone, in particular sold under the trade name Uvinul® T 150 by BASF,

[0078] - Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, sold under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB by 3V sigma,

[0079] - Symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthyl or polyphenyl groups, described in US 6 225 467, patent application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or in the document “Symmetrical triazine derivatives” (IP.COM) IPCOM000031257 Journal, Inc West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004),

[0080] Anthranilic compounds:

[0081] Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA by DOW

[0082] Benzalmalonate compounds:

[0083] Polyorganosiloxanes comprising benzalmalonate functions, such as the silicone-15 sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.

[0084] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the application comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0085] Hydrophilic organic UV screening agents

[0086] For the purposes of the present application, the term “hydrophilic organic UV screening agent” is understood to mean a water-soluble organic UV screening agent or a water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.

[0087] The term “water-soluble organic screening agent” is understood to mean any organic screening agent capable of being completely dissolved in an aqueous liquid phase in molecular form or in colloidal form, for example in micellar form.

[0088] The term "water-dispersible organic screening agent" means any organic screening agent capable of forming a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 microns in a liquid aqueous phase. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.

[0089] Among the water-soluble organic UVA screening agents that can be used according to the application, mention can be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10- camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof, described notably in patent applications FR-A-2 528 420 and FR-A-2 639 347. Mention can be made especially of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10- camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), such as the product produced under the name Mexoryl® SX by the company Noveal.

[0090] These screening agents correspond to the following general formula (I):

[0091]

[0092] in which F represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a group NH(R1)3 + in which the groups R1, which can be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn + , Mn + represents a polyvalent metal cation, in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn + preferably represents a metal cation chosen from Ca 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Ba 2+ , Al 3+ and Zr 4+ It is clearly understood that the compounds of the above formula (I) can produce "cis-trans" isomers around one or more double bonds and that all the isomers fall within the context of the application.

[0093] Among the water-soluble organic UVA screening agents that can be used according to the application, mention can also be made of the compounds comprising at least two benzoxazolyl groups bearing a sulfonic acid group, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 669 323.

[0094] These compounds are described and prepared according to the synthesis indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and in patent application EP-A-0 669 323.

[0095] The compounds comprising at least two benzoxazolyl groups according to the application correspond to the following general formula (II):

[0096]

[0097] wherein:

[0098] - Z represents an organic residue comprising one or more double bonds having a valence (1 + n), the one or more double bonds being placed so that the residue completes the system of double bonds of the at least two benzoxazolyl groups defined within square brackets, so as to form a complete conjugated assembly;

[0099] - X' represents S, O or NR 6 ;

[0100] - R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci to C4alkyl group, a Ci to C4alkoxy group, a C5 to C12aryl group, a C2 to C12heteroaryl group, a C2 to C12acyloxy group or a group SO3Y or COOY; 18 ; 15 ; 18 ;

[0101] - the groups R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 , which can be identical or different, represent a nitro group or a group R 1 ;

[0102] - R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci to C4alkyl group or a Ci to C4hydroxyalkyl group;

[0103] - Y represents a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, ½ Ca, ½ Mg, 1 / 3 Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of the free acid group with an organic nitrogen base;

[0104] - m is 0 or 1 ;

[0105] - n is a number ranging from 2 to 6;

[0106] - 1 is a number ranging from 1 to 4;

[0107] - with the proviso that 1 + n does not exceed the value 6.

[0108] Among these compounds, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3',5,5'- tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or its salts, having the following structure (III), in particular sold under the name Neo Heliopan® AP by Symrise, are very particularly preferred:

[0109]

[0110] Preferably, the water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), such as the product produced under the name Mexoryl SX by the company Noveal.

[0111] The water-soluble organic UVB screening agents that can be used according to the application are especially chosen from water-soluble cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzalmalonate compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic acid compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] As examples of water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, mention can be made of phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), in particular the product sold under the trade name Eusolex 232 ® on the market.

[0113] The composition according to the application can also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

[0114] When the water-soluble UV screening agent is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably combined with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

[0115] The term "alkanolamine" means a C2-C20 compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol, generally primary alcohol, function. 10 As suitable alkanolamines, mention can be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3- propanediol (INCI name: tromethamine) and triethanolamine.

[0116] Among the water-dispersible organic screening agents, mention can be made of the following screening agents.

[0117] Benzophenone compounds:

[0118] 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound is advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) and in particular in aqueous dispersion, which micronized form can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119.

[0119] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0120] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, which is sold under the trade name

[0121] at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant having the structure C n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x H of the alkyl polyglycoside surfactant (where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the units (C6H 10 O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6) in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold by the company BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® M, or

[0122] in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono(C8-C 20 )alkyl ester having a glycerol polymerization degree of at least 5, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392, in particular the product sold by the company BASF under the name Tinosorb WPGL,

[0123] triazine compounds:

[0124] - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, in its water-dispersible form, having the INCI name bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (and) acrylates / C 12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua,

[0125] - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthyl or polycoumaril groups, used in micronized form (average particle size from 0.02 to 3 pm), which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization processes described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersions, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine sold by the company BASF under the name Tinosorb® A2B and included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985,

[0126] benzoxazol compounds:

[0127] 2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, with CAS No. 904-39-2.

[0128] Inorganic UV-screening agents

[0129] The inorganic UV-screening agents that can be used according to the application are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the application are metal oxide particles having an average primary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferentially between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 pm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. They are in particular described in Annex VI of the European Regulation No. 1223 / 2009 of 22 September 2021 relating to cosmetic products, but are not limited to this list.

[0130] They can in particular be chosen from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides, zirconium oxides and cerium oxides, or mixtures thereof.

[0131] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that can be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Croda, Tayca and Merck.

[0132] The metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

[0133] The coated pigments are pigments that have been subjected to one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with a compound such as an amino acid; beeswax; a fatty acid; a fatty alcohol; an anionic surfactant; lecithin; a sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salt of a fatty acid; a metal alkoxide (of titanium or aluminium); polyethylene; silicone; a protein (collagen, elastin); an alkanolamine; silicon oxide; a metal oxide or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0134] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated with:

[0135] - hydrated silica, such as the product MT-100 WP from the company Tayca,

[0136] - silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from the company Ikeda,

[0137] - Silica and alumina, such as the products MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® from the company Empower Ingredients and Tioveil™ AQ-N from the company Rhodia,

[0138] - Alumina, such as the product TTO-55 (A)® from the company Ishihara,

[0139] - Alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the products MT-100TV®, MT-100Z ® and MT-01 ® from the company Empower Ingredients, the product Solaveil™ CT100 ® from the company Rhodia and the product Eusolex T-AVO ® from the company Merck,

[0140] - Silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100AQ ® from the company Empower Ingredients,

[0141] - Alumina and aluminum laurate,

[0142] - Iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0143] - Zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0144] - Silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as the product MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from the company Empower Ingredients,

[0145] - Silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with silicone,

[0146] - Silica and treated with silicone,

[0147] - Alumina and treated with silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® from the company Ishihara,

[0148] - Triethanolamine,

[0149] - Stearic acid, such as the product TTO-55 (C)® from the company Ishihara,

[0150] - Sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0151] - Ti02treated with octyltrimethylsilane,

[0152] - Ti02treated with polydimethylsiloxane,

[0153] - Anatase / rutile Ti02treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,

[0154] - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia, TM - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia,

[0155] - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia, TM - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia,

[0156] - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia,

[0157] - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia, 15 - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia.

[0158] Mention can also be made of Ti02pigments doped with at least one transition metal, such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, the doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acid. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles can also comprise one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, for example sorbitan isostearate, or polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, for example Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles comprises at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention can be made more particularly of an oily dispersion of Ti02particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride, in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate, having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, or the product sold under the trade name Optisol OTP-1 by the company Rhodia. TM - Ti02coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceryl ester, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200 by the company Rhodia,

[0159] The uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the trade name MT-500B or MT-600B® by the company Imperial Chemical Industries or under the name Degussa P 25 by the company Evonik.

[0160] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0161] - those sold under the name Z-Cote® by the company BASF;

[0162] - those sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0163] The coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:

[0164] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane;

[0165] - Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Rhodia, dispersed in benzoic acid C 12 - C 15 alkyl ester (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Benzoic Acid C12-15 Alkyl Esters (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);

[0166] - those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by the company Daito Kasei (ZnO coated with a silicone grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in C9-C 12 alkane with dispersing agent);

[0167] - those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclomethicone).

[0168] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments can be for example those sold under the name Rhodigard® W15 by the company Solvay.

[0169] Mention can also be made of metal oxides, in particular mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including mixtures of equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and also mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or with alumina, silica and glycerol.

[0170] When the composition according to the application comprises inorganic UV-screening agents, coated or uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0171] According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 16% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0172] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "total amount of UV screening agents" means the sum of the active material concentrations of each UV screening agent present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and inorganic UV screening agents.

[0173] Ascorbic acid

[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, ascorbic acid preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid or vitamin C. It has the structure of formula (IV):

[0175]

[0176] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferentially at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, and even more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] Scleroglucan gum

[0179] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more scleroglucan gums.

[0180] Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by fungi of the Sclerotium type, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii. They are polysaccharides composed of glucose units only.

[0181] The scleroglucan gums can or can not be modified. Preferentially, the scleroglucan gums used in the present invention are unmodified.

[0182] By way of non-limiting example, examples of scleroglucan gums that can be used in the present invention are the products sold under the name Actigum CS, in particular Actigum CS 11 by Sanofi Bio Industries, and under the name Amigum or Amigel by Alban Müller International.

[0183] Other scleroglucan gums can also be used, such as the gums treated with glyoxal as described in French patent application No. 2 633 940.

[0184] The scleroglucan gum that can be used according to the application preferably represents a total content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] lipophilic polymer

[0186] According to a particular embodiment of the application, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):

[0187]

[0188] wherein:

[0189] R1is chosen, independently of each other, from an alkyl or alkenyl radical;

[0190] wherein at least 60% by weight of the radicals R1are chosen from the group consisting of stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight being relative to the sum of all the radicals R1present in the polymer;

[0191] the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing a radical R1ranges from 1 : 30 to 1 : 1 ; and

[0192] the sum of the total units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0193] Preferentially, R1consists of an alkyl radical, preferentially C 16 - C 22 alkyl, and more preferentially a stearyl (C 18 ) or behenyl (C 22 ) radical.

[0194] Preferentially, at least 70% by weight, preferentially at least 80% by weight, and more preferentially at least 90% by weight of the radicals R1are stearyl or behenyl radicals.

[0195] According to one preferential embodiment, all the radicals R1are behenyl radicals.

[0196] According to another preferential embodiment, all the radicals R1are stearyl radicals.

[0197] Preferentially, said weight ratio ranges from 1 : 15 to 1 : 1 and preferentially ranges from 1 : 10 to 1 : 4.

[0198] Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) previously described.

[0199] According to a particular embodiment of the application, the polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol. The number average molecular weight can be measured by gel permeation chromatography, for example according to the method described in the examples hereinafter.

[0200] Preferably, the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the examples hereinafter.

[0201] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the groups R1 are stearyl groups, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 60°C and preferably ranging from 45°C to 55°C.

[0202] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the groups R1 are ambucyl groups, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C and preferably ranging from 63°C to 67°C.

[0203] The polymer used according to the application can be prepared by polymerization of a monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-R1 (R1 having the meaning described previously) with 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0204] The polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

[0205] The polymerization is described, for example, in document US 2007 / 0264204.

[0206] The lipophilic polymer used in the context of the application and as described previously can be present in the composition in an active material amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] Aqueous phase

[0208] The composition according to the application comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0209] This aqueous phase contains water and optionally other organic solvents which are water-soluble or water-miscible at 25°C.

[0210] The water used can contain sterile demineralized water and / or floral waters such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water.

[0211] The aqueous phase suitable for the application can comprise, for example, water chosen from natural spring water, such as the water from La Roche-Posay, the water from Vittel, the water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or the water from Vichy or floral water.

[0212] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the application include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C1-C4 monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; dihydric or polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2- propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2- ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] According to a particular form of the application, the entire aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition that are able to be dissolved in this same phase, including the hydrophilic screening agents, represents from 40% to 80% by weight and preferably from 55% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Fatty phase

[0215] The composition according to the application can comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0216] The fatty phase can be constituted of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetics or dermatology field; it can in particular comprise at least one oil. The fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agents present in the composition according to the application.

[0217] The term "oil" is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid at ambient temperature (20°C-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0218] For the purposes of the application, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fibre in less than one hour at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the application are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0219] The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibre for at least several hours at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.001 mmHg) at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. -3- an oil having a vapour pressure of less than 50 mmHg (0.0667 Pa) at 25°C.

[0220] For the purposes of the present application, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil that essentially comprises carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. These oils can thus in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0221] The term "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and especially at least one Si-0 group.

[0222] As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the application, mention can in particular be made of:

[0223] (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides, generally triesters of glycerol and of fatty acids, which can have different chain lengths of C4to C 24 , these chains possibly being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively glyceryl tricaprocaprylat, such as those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold by the company Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818®;

[0224] (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0225] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

[0226] (iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR', in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R' > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoic acid C 12 -C 15alkyl esters (such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt), 2-ethylphenyl benzoate (such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP), isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate (such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by Dubiostarling), octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythrityl esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di( linear C 12 -C 13 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di( linear C 14 -C 15 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;

[0227] (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature and that have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, or 2-undecylpentadodecanol;

[0228] (vi) carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;

[0229] and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the application, more particularly preferred are triglycerides and especially caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and especially diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl esters, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dioctyl carbonate.

[0231] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the application, mention can be made especially of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and especially branched C8-Ci6 16 alkanes, such as petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 16 isoparaffins (also known as isododecane), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C8-Ci6 16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0232] Mention can also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059 by the company Cognis. These alkanes are mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon, obtained from fatty alcohols which are themselves obtained from coconut or palm kernel oil. Mention can be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application WO 2008 / 155 059 by the company Cognis. Mention can also be made of n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) sold under the reference Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97® respectively by the company Sasol, and also mixtures thereof.

[0233] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates can also be used, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company Shell. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0234] The non-volatile silicone oils can in particular be chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, these groups being pendant and / or at the end of the polysiloxane chain and each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated polysiloxanes such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0235] The volatile silicone oils that can be mentioned include, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular with a viscosity of < 8 centistokes (8 x 10 -6 m 2and in particular those containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the application, mention can be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0236] Mention can also be made of volatile linear alkyl trisiloxane oils such as:

[0237] 3 -butyl- 1, 1, 1,3,5,5,5 -heptamethyltrisiloxane,

[0238] 3 -propyl- 1, 1, 1,3,5,5,5 -heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

[0239] 3 -ethyl- 1, 1, 1,3,5,5,5 -heptamethyltrisiloxane.

[0240] It is also possible to use volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

[0241] The fatty phase according to the application can additionally comprise other fatty substances mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

[0242] Another fatty substance that can be present in the oil phase can be, for example:

[0243] - fatty acids, such as fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid or oleic acid; preferably C 12 - C 22 - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0244] - waxes chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresine or ozokerite wax, or synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or Fischer-Tropsch wax;

[0245] - gums chosen from silicone gums (polydimethylsiloxanol);

[0246] - pasty compounds, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of glycerol oligomers, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;

[0247] - and mixtures thereof.

[0248] When a fatty phase is present, the total fatty phase (including all lipophilic substances of the composition capable of dissolving in this same phase, including lipophilic screening agents) represents from 20% to 60% by weight and preferably from 25% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0249] cosmetic active ingredient

[0250] The composition of the application can comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

[0251] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizers; natural extracts; vitamins other than vitamin C, and also derivatives thereof (in particular esters); vitamin C derivatives (in particular esters); urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; firming agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0252] further adjuvants or additives

[0253] The composition of the application can also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (for example tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, further thickeners (such as acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysaccharides other than scleroglucan, in particular xanthan gum), pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

[0254] The person skilled in the art will select the amounts of cosmetic active ingredient and of further adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the application.

[0255] galenical form

[0256] The composition according to the application can be prepared according to techniques well known to the person skilled in the art.

[0257] The composition according to the application can in particular be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), such as a cream or a milk, a gel-cream, a serum or a fluid.

[0258] According to a particular embodiment of the application, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It can in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (reverse-phase emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0259] In the case where the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, the emulsification process that can be used is of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.

[0260] To obtain a stable emulsion with a low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio > 25), the dispersion can be prepared in the concentrated phase and then diluted with the remaining aqueous phase.

[0261] It is also possible to obtain, via HPH (between 50 and 800 bars), stable dispersions with droplet sizes that can be as small as 100 nm.

[0262] The emulsion can contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen as a function of the emulsion (W / O or O / W) to be obtained.

[0263] Examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants that can be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyols or sugars; polysiloxane surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C® by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5200 formulation aid, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Abil WE O9®. It is also possible to add one or more co-emulsifiers to them, which can advantageously be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

[0264] Non-silicone emulsifying surfactants can also be mentioned, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyols or sugars.

[0265] Polyol alkyl esters that can in particular be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by ICI.

[0266] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that can be mentioned include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by GOLDSCHMIDT; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI CHEMICALS INDUSTRIES; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI CHEMICALS INDUSTRIES, and mixtures thereof.

[0267] For O / W emulsions, as non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, mention can be made of, for example, polyoxyalkylenated, more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as the ester of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid with the INCI name PEG-100 stearate sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by RHONE-CLARKE; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as PEG-100 stearate / glycerol stearate mixtures, for example sold under the name Arlacel 165 by ICI CHEMICALS INDUSTRIES; oxyalkylenated, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APG), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, for example sold under the corresponding names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200® by HENKEL; cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name Montanov 68® by SEPPIC, Tegocare CG90® by GOLDSCHMIDT and Emulgade KE3302® by HENKEL; and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202® by SEPPIC. According to one particular embodiment of the application, the mixture of alkyl polyglucoside(s) as defined above and of the corresponding fatty alcohol(s) can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0268] As anionic surfactants enabling the production of O / W emulsions, mention can be made of anionic surfactants chosen from at least one C8-C 30 , preferably C8-C 24 hydrocarbon-modified amino acids and salts thereof, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamate) or salts thereof (acyl glutamate), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or salts thereof, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0269] Such compounds are sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft and in particular under the reference Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively by the company Cognis under the name Eumulgin SG.

[0270] As anionic surfactants enabling the production of O / W emulsions, mention can also be made of hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, in particular inulin modified with a hydrophobic chain such as an alkyl urethane group, in particular a C8-C 18 alkyl urethane group, and more particularly a lauryl urethane group.

[0271] Examples of these compounds that can in particular be mentioned include the product sold by the company Creachem under the name Inutec SL1.

[0272] The composition according to the application can also be an aqueous solution, more preferentially an aqueous solution with a slightly gelled appearance.

[0273] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the application is a single-phase aqueous composition. Such a composition can be called a "serum". The term "serum" is understood to mean a composition with a fluid texture and a slightly gelled appearance and which flows.

[0274] According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably substantially free of surfactants. The term "substantially free of surfactants" is understood to mean that the composition according to the application exhibits a content of surfactants of less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The surfactants can preferably be peptizing agents, the concentration of which is between 0.1 % and 2% by weight; they make it possible to solubilize small amounts of oil or lipophilic compounds or fragrances (i.e. a concentration of fragrances or oil or lipophilic compounds of between 0.05% and 2% by weight). Examples

[0275] The application will now be described more particularly by way of examples, which do not limit the scope of the application in any way. However, these examples make it possible to support the particular features, variants and preferred embodiments of the application.

[0276] A / Example of synthesis of lipophilic polymers comprising monomer units of formula (A) and (B) according to the present application

[0277] Molecular weights were determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):

[0278] Samples were prepared by preparing a solution of the polymer at 10 mg / ml in tetrahydrofuran. The samples were placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes and then in a shaking shaker for 60 minutes to help dissolution. After visual inspection, the samples appeared to be completely dissolved in the solvent.

[0279] The prepared samples were analyzed using two polypore 300 x 7.5 mm columns (produced by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatography system, tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and detection by refractive index. The samples were filtered through a 0.45 pm nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for calibration were Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.

[0280] Calibration was performed using polystyrene standards ranging from 2 520 000 to 162 daltons.

[0281] The system was equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The average molecular weight was determined using a polystyrene calibration curve. The recording of the graphs and the determination of the various molecular weights were performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

[0282] Melting points were determined by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC):

[0283] This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of a polymer by differential scanning calorimetry. The method is based on the standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to the standard ASTM E 9672.

[0284] Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (polymer 1):

[0285] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser and extensions for the two other necks, after having removed the oxygen from the system by nitrogen flushing for 20 minutes, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2’-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added under stirring at 80°C over a period of 60 minutes in 40 g of isopropanol. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauroyl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued at 110°C for 60 minutes. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C, a stream of demineralized water was added and then the mixture was stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

[0286] Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g / mol, Mw = 21 000, Mw / Mn = 2.8

[0287] Melting point: 65 °C

[0288] Styrene / acrylic acid copolymer (polymer 1):

[0289] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser and extensions for the two other necks, after having removed the oxygen from the system by flushing with nitrogen for 20 minutes, 155 g of behenyl acrylate, 45 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added to 50 g of isopropyl alcohol under stirring at 80 °C during 90 minutes. The mixture was stirred for 3 hours at 80 °C. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauroyl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued at 125 °C for 60 minutes. This step was repeated. Then the mixture was cooled to 90 °C, a stream of demineralized water was added and then the mixture was stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

[0290] Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g / mol, Mw = 19 000, Mw / Mn = 2.6

[0291] Melting point: 49 °C

[0292] B / Formulation examples

[0293] The following examples serve to illustrate the present application, however are not limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of ingredients present in the compositions are given in weight % of starting material (SM) or active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the present application

[0295] The stability of the compositions was evaluated macroscopically (appearance, color, odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 4 °C, 25 °C and 45 °C for 24 hours, 1 month and 2 months.

[0296] The macroscopic stability was evaluated by the naked eye and the microscopic stability was evaluated with a white light optical microscope.

[0297] Process for the preparation of the compositions

[0298] The process for producing the exemplary compositions is conventional.

[0299] Production in the main vessel:

[0300] The starting materials of phase Al are introduced into a container. The container is placed under vacuum and the blade and turbine stirring are applied in order to homogenize the phase Al and heat the phase to a temperature of 47°C. Once the temperature is reached, the heating is stopped and the starting materials of phase A2 are aspirated. The turbine efficiency between 2000 rpm and 2500 rpm is applied at a temperature of 47°C, still under vacuum. Care is taken to disperse well until a homogeneous medium free of gel particles is obtained.

[0301] Once phases Al and A2 are completely homogenized, phase B, prepared as per the production method defined below, is introduced. The mixture is stirred at a turbine efficiency between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm, still under vacuum and at a temperature between 50°C and 55°C, for at least 10-15 minutes, until a compliant emulsion is obtained. Once a compliant emulsion is obtained, the preparation is cooled under scraper blade stirring and under vacuum until a temperature below 35°C is obtained. At this stage, the starting materials of phases Cl and C2 are introduced under stirring between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. Dispersion is carried out under stirring between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm until a compliant emulsion is obtained and a good dispersion of the fillers. If necessary, cooling is continued under scraper blade stirring and under vacuum. At 33°C, the production container is inertized until the end of production, then the starting materials of phase D are introduced at a temperature below 33°C, under stirring at a turbine efficiency between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. Stirring is continued until a compliant emulsion under the microscope is obtained. Once this step is reached, the starting materials of phases El, E2 and E3 are introduced in this order and stirring is carried out at a turbine efficiency between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm for 15 minutes.

[0302] Production method of phase B:

[0303] The starting materials of phase B are introduced into a second container and heated to a temperature of 65-70°C with a de-flocculator. The medium is homogenized until it is melted and completely dissolved.

[0304] Phase B is transferred to the main container for emulsification.

[0305] Comparative examples - compositions 1 to 4

[0306] The following compositions 1 to 4 are prepared.

[0307] [Table 1]

[0308]

[0309]

[0310]

[0311] The results obtained

[0312] The stability results obtained are as follows.

[0313] [Table 2]

[0314]

[0315] Compositions 1 and 2 according to the application exhibit better stability over time and better temperature stability compared to comparative compositions 3 and 4 which do not contain the scleroglucan gum.

Claims

1. A composition, in particular a cosmetic or a dermatological composition, comprising: a) at least one UV screening agent; b) at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one scleroglucan gum.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein, The UV screening agent is selected from the group consisting of lipophilic organic UV screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and inorganic UV screening agents.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein, The lipophilic organic UV screening agent is selected from the group consisting of cinnamic acid compounds, anthranilic acid compounds, salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, benzylidenemalonate compounds, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazoline compounds, bis-benzazolyl compounds, methylenebis(hydroxyphenyl)benzotriazole compounds, benzoxazol compounds, screening polymers and screening silicones, alpha-alkylstyrene-based dimers, 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein, The hydrophilic organic UV screening agent is selected from the group consisting of water-soluble organic UV screening agents and water-dispersible organic UV screening agents.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein, The water-soluble organic UV screening agent is selected from the group consisting of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenyl-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate), 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid), and salts thereof, preferably from the group consisting of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid), and salts thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein, The water-dispersible organic UV screening agents are selected from the group consisting of methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the presence of at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant having the structure C n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x H, wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the units (C6H 10 O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono(C8-C 20 )alkyl ester having a glycerol polymerization degree of at least 5, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm; bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in its water-dispersible form and having the INCI name bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (and) acrylates / methacrylates C12-22 alkyl ester copolymer; symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthyl or polycumyl groups, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(triphenyl)triazine, used in micronized form (average particle size from 0.02 to 3 pm), and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein, The ascorbic acid is L-ascorbic acid.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 7% by weight, of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein, The scleroglucan gum is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B): wherein: R1is independently selected from an alkyl or alkenyl group; wherein at least 60% by weight of said R1groups are groups selected from stearyl and behenyl, said weight percentage being relative to the sum of all said R1groups present in said polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing said R1groups ranges from 1 : 30 to 1 : 1 ; and the sum of total units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of said polymer.

13. The composition of claim 12, wherein, In the lipophilic acrylic polymer, R1consists of an alkyl group, preferably a C 16 -C 22 alkyl group, and more preferably a behenyl or stearyl group.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 12 and 13, wherein, In said lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight of said R1groups are behenyl or stearyl groups.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14, wherein, In said lipophilic acrylic polymer, all said R1groups are behenyl or stearyl groups.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein, In said lipophilic acrylic polymer, the weight ratio of the sum of all said R1groups to the sum of all said acrylate units bearing said R1groups ranges from 1 : 15 to 1 : 1, preferably ranges from 1 : 10 to 1 :

4.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 12 to 16, wherein, Said lipophilic acrylic polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol.

18. The composition of any one of claims 12-17, wherein, Said lipophilic acrylic polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C.

19. The composition of any one of claims 12-18, wherein, In said lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of said R1groups are stearyl groups and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 60°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 55°C.

20. The composition of any one of claims 12-19, wherein, In said lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least 60% by weight of said R1groups are behenyl groups and said polymer has a melting point ranging from 60°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63°C to 67°C.

21. The composition of any one of claims 12-20, wherein, Said lipophilic acrylic polymer is present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

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