Hair treatment composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition comprising a surfactant wherein the surfactant comprises an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof; an amino acid; and a fibrous active substance.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This document discloses hair treatment compositions. The hair treatment compositions comprise surfactants, amino acids, and fiber-active substances. The surfactants may comprise anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof. Background Technology

[0002] Consumers regularly subject their hair to intensive treatments, care, and styling routines to help achieve their desired appearance. These actions introduce changes to the chemical properties of hair keratin proteins, leading to alterations in both microstructure and macrostructure, and consequently, changes in the physical properties of the fibers: the consequences of which are often perceived by consumers as damage.

[0003] Combing and brushing mechanically abrade the cuticle of hair fibers, making them rougher and increasing their abrasive properties. Hair brightening treatments, such as bleaching or coloring, typically involve an oxidation step to break down melanin and produce a new hair color, but these methods also oxidize hair fiber proteins and endogenous lipids. These reactions alter the number and type of covalent and nonvalent bonds within the fiber and affect the hair's thermal stability and mechanical properties. Compared to virgin hair, the internal proteins of damaged hair typically have a lower denaturation temperature.

[0004] It has been suggested that various organic molecules and their combinations be used to treat damaged hair.

[0005] International Patent Application No. WO 2004 / 054526 describes hair treatment compositions for caring for and repairing damaged hair and for improving hair manageability, the hair treatment compositions comprising disaccharides (particularly trehalose).

[0006] International Patent Application No. WO 2004 / 054525 describes a hair treatment composition for caring for and repairing damaged hair and for improving hair manageability, the hair treatment composition comprising a disaccharide (particularly trehalose) and a diol (particularly 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol).

[0007] International Patent Application No. WO 2009 / 040240 discloses a hair treatment composition comprising lactone and disaccharide for treating dry, damaged and / or unmanageable hair.

[0008] US Patent No. 11,612,554 discloses a composition comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid and its derivative, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid and its derivative, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, and (d) at least one emulsifier.

[0009] CN application number 106580726 discloses a fast-foaming transparent shampoo that is gentle and does not contain silicone oil.

[0010] Mintel's Super Damage Repair Hare Care Set contains a damage repair kit formulated with twelve different types of amino acids to cleanse and thoroughly moisturize hair and restore its quality.

[0011] Mintel's No Wash Recovery Cream Treatment is a leave-in cream that can be applied to wet hair without washing hands, as it has a clear finish. It is formulated with hydrolyzed silk, keratin, collagen, and five types of plant proteins.

[0012] US Patent No. 10,568,820 B2 discloses a method for inhibiting copper deposition on hair and promoting the removal of copper deposited on hair, comprising applying a bleaching or oxidative dyeing composition to hair, the composition containing a chelating agent, rinsing the bleaching or oxidative dyeing composition, applying a wash-off conditioner containing histidine to the hair, rinsing the wash-off conditioner composition from the hair, applying a shampoo composition having ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and / or histidine to the hair, rinsing the shampoo composition from the hair, applying a wash-off conditioner containing histidine to the hair, and rinsing the conditioner composition from the hair.

[0013] International Publication No. WO 2012 / 054029 A1 discloses hair repair compositions containing polyelectrolyte complexes. It also discloses their uses, methods of manufacturing them, methods of testing their efficacy, and methods involving media for hair repair.

[0014] The Great Hair Day Set from Minel is a shampoo, conditioner, and 3-minute conditioner set. The shampoo is designed for damaged hair and is free of paraffin, silicone, or colorants. The conditioner is also designed for damaged hair and is free of paraffin or colorants. The 3-minute conditioner is absorbed directly into the hair to repair it without burdening it.

[0015] Korean Patent No. 102276289 B1 discloses a hair composition that simultaneously contains PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether and polyquaternium-92. This composition can strengthen damaged hair.

[0016] It is desirable to provide hair treatment compositions that not only do not damage the hair, but also repair previous damage to the hair. Summary of the Invention

[0017] Hair treatment compositions are disclosed in various aspects.

[0018] The hair treatment composition comprises a surfactant, wherein the surfactant comprises anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, nonionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof; amino acids; and fibroblast-active substances.

[0019] These and other features and characteristics are described in more detail below. Detailed Implementation

[0020] This document discloses hair treatment compositions. These compositions may comprise surfactants, amino acids, and fiber-active substances. The hair treatment compositions can be used to repair damage to hair proteins. For example, the hair treatment compositions can be used to repair or replace hydrogen bonds that may have broken due to damage or stress to the hair. The hair treatment compositions can be used to increase the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair. The compositions can be applied to the hair multiple times to achieve progressive damage repair, such as more hydrogen bonds being repaired or replaced and an increase in the denaturation temperature of the protein. The denaturation temperature of the protein can be increased to a temperature comparable to or higher than that of the original hair.

[0021] Hair can be virgin hair or damaged hair. As disclosed herein, virgin hair refers to hair that has not undergone intensive physical and / or chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, heat treatment, and intense and / or prolonged exposure to sunlight; nor does it exhibit characteristic features of damaged hair, such as split ends and / or excessive dryness. Virgin hair includes hair with a persistent low level of damage throughout its natural hair life cycle. Sources of low-level damage may include, but are not limited to, washing, brushing, combing, and natural processes, such as limited solar degradation. Hair is preferably damaged hair.

[0022] Damage can be caused by: mechanical means, such as combing and brushing; chemical means; exposure to heat; environmental means, such as sunlight; and exposure to destructive energy sources, such as light, such as UV light. Chemical means include treatments involving oxidative steps, such as hair brightening, such as bleaching and coloring treatments. Preferably, the hair is bleached, more preferably bleached multiple times.

[0023] Hair can be any type: straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled or coiled. Straight hair (also known as type 1 hair) is shiny and elastic. Straight hair is characterized by its fine and fragile texture and is very difficult to curl. Wavy hair (also known as type 2 hair) is hair in which the curls are loosely arranged in an "S" shape. Its shine ranges between that of straight and curly hair, and it can have a thin to thick texture. Wavy hair is more likely to become frizzy compared to type 1 hair. Curly hair (also known as type 3 hair) has loose to spiral curls, often defined as "rounded S". This type of hair is more likely to become frizzy and is highly susceptible to damage. Lack of proper care for curly hair can result in less defined curls and can make it appear frizzier. Tightly curled or coiled hair (also known as type 4 hair) is characterized by tightly coiled or wiry curls (or no visible curl at all). It is very fragile and has a high density. Tightly curled or coiled hair has a "Z" shape and usually bends at an acute angle, rather than the gentle curls seen in wavy or curly hair. Tightly curled or coiled hair usually shrinks when wet and is more susceptible to damage because it has less cuticle compared to other hair types.

[0024] The surfactant in the hair treatment composition may include anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof. Based on the total weight of the composition, the surfactant may be present in amounts from 1 to 60% by weight, for example, 2 to 50% by weight, for example, 2 to 40% by weight, for example, 2 to 37% by weight, for example, 2 to 30% by weight, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein. The surfactant may vary depending on whether the end-use product is a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, hair mask, serum, etc.

[0025] Hair treatment compositions may be made without the use of sulfate surfactants. The term "substantially free of" or "substantially free of" as used herein means an amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.25% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, for example, 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0026] Shampoo The shampoo compositions disclosed herein are generally aqueous, meaning they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystal phase as their main component.

[0027] Ideally, based on the total weight of the composition, the shampoo composition may contain 50 to 98% by weight, for example, 55 to 90% by weight, of water.

[0028] Shampoo compositions disclosed herein typically contain one or more anionic cleansing surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and desirable for topical application to hair.

[0029] Examples of anionic cleaning surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl acyl hydroxyethanesulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosine salts, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts, particularly their sodium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono-, di-, and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups typically contain 8 to 18, preferably 10 to 16, carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts may contain 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

[0030] In one aspect of the hair treatment composition, the anionic surfactant may include sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isosulfonate, sodium cocoyl isosulfonate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium alkyl ether sulfate, alpha-olefin sulfonate (AOS) (e.g., sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate), or combinations thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers such as Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, SinoLion, Stepan Company, and Innospec. In one embodiment, the hair treatment cleaning composition is substantially sulfate-free.

[0031] Other anionic cleaning surfactants used in the shampoo compositions disclosed herein may include sodium oleate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl ethanesulfonate, sodium lauryl ethanesulfonate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.

[0032] Other anionic cleaning surfactants may include sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl ether ethanesulfonate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n)EO (where n is 10 to 20).

[0033] Anionic surfactants may include sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl ethanesulfonate, sodium cocoyl ethanesulfonate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium α-olefin sulfonate, or combinations thereof.

[0034] A mixture of any of the aforementioned anionic cleaning surfactants can be used.

[0035] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of anionic cleaning surfactant present in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may be 0.5 to 45%, for example 1.5 to 35%, for example 5 to 20%, for example 12 to 20%, for example 15 to 20%, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0036] Optionally, the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may contain additional ingredients as described to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability.

[0037] The composition may contain a co-surfactant to help impart aesthetic, physical, or cleaning properties to the composition.

[0038] Examples of co-surfactants are nonionic surfactants, which may be contained in an amount of 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0039] For example, representative nonionic surfactants that may be included in a shampoo composition of a hair treatment composition include aliphatic (C8-C5) surfactants. 18 Condensation products of primary or secondary straight-chain or branched alcohols or phenols with alkyl oxides (usually ethylene oxide and typically having 6 to 30 alkyl oxide groups).

[0040] Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coconut oil mono- or di-ethanolamide and coconut oil mono-isopropanolamide.

[0041] Other nonionic surfactants that may be included in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition include alkyl polyglucosides (APGs). Typically, APGs are APGs comprising an alkyl group block-linked (optionally via bridging groups) to one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: RO-(G) n R is a branched or straight-chain alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated, and G is a saccharide group.

[0042] R can represent approximately C5 to approximately C 20 The average alkyl chain length. Preferably, R represents C8 to C98. 12 The average alkyl chain length. Most preferably, the value of R is 9.5 to 10.5. G can be selected from C5 or C6 monosaccharide residues, preferably glucosides. G can be selected from glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and their derivatives. Preferably, G is glucose.

[0043] The degree of polymerization n can have a value of about 1 to about 10 or greater. Preferably, the value of n is about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, the value of n is about 1.3 to about 1.5.

[0044] Suitable alkyl polysaccharides are commercially available and include, for example, those materials identified as follows: ORAMIX™ NS10 from Seppic, PLATNAREN™ 1200 and PLATNAREN™ 2000 from Henkel.

[0045] Other nonionic surfactants derived from sugars that may be included in the composition include C 10 -C 18 N-alkyl(C) l -C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C 12 -C 18 N-methylglucosamide, as described, for example, in International Patent Application No. WO 1992 / 06154 and U.S. Patent No. 5,194,639, and N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C 10 -C 18 N-(3-methoxypropyl)glucamide.

[0046] A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which may be contained in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, for example 1 to 18% by weight, for example 5 to 18% by weight, for example 10 to 18% by weight, for example 12 to 28% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0047] Amphoteric surfactants (which can be zwitterionic depending on pH) include sodium acylamphoteric acid, sodium acylamphoteric propionate, disodium acylamphoteric diacetate, and disodium acylamphoteric dipropionate, wherein the acyl group (i.e., alkyl acyl group) may contain C7-C. 18 Alkyl moiety. Illustrative examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium lauroylamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, or combinations thereof.

[0048] Regarding the zwitterionic surfactants used in the hair treatment compositions of the present invention, such surfactants contain at least one acid group. Such acid groups can be carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups. They typically contain a quaternary nitrogen, and therefore can be quaternary amino acids. They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group with 7 to 18 carbon atoms, and generally conform to the following overall structural formula: R 6 -[-C(O)-NH(CH2) q -] r -N + (R 7 (R) 8 )-AB Where R 6 It is an alkyl or alkenyl group with 7 to 18 carbon atoms; R 7 and R 8 Each of the elements is independently an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, or carboxyl group with 1 to 3 carbon atoms; q is 2 to 4; r is 0 to 1; A is an alkylene group with 1 to 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, and B is -CO2- or -SO3-.

[0049] Desired zwitterionic surfactants used in the cleaning compositions disclosed herein and within the above general formulas include simple betaines of the following formula: R 6 -N + (R 7 (R) 8 )-CH2CO2 - And the following amide betaine: R 6 -CONH(CH2) t -N + (R 7 (R) 8 )-CH2CO2 - Where t is 2 or 3.

[0050] In both equations, R 6 R 7 and R 8 As previously defined. In particular, R 6 It can be C derived from coconut oil 12 and C 14 A mixture of alkyl groups, wherein at least half, preferably at least three-quarters, of the R groups. 6 It has 10 to 14 carbon atoms. R 7 and R 8 Preferably, it is methyl.

[0051] Another possibility is that the zwitterionic surfactant is sulfobetaine of the following formula: R 6 -N + (R 7 (R) 8 )-(CH2)3SO3 - or R 6 -CONH(CH2) u -N + (R 7 (R) 8 )-(CH2)3SO3 - Where u is 2 or 3, or where -(CH2)3SO3 - -CH2C(OH)(H)CH2SO3 - Their variants are alternatives.

[0052] In these formulas, R 6 R 7 and R 8 As previously specified.

[0053] Illustrative examples of zwitterionic surfactants to be used include betaines, such as lauryl betaine, citrate betaine, cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cocoaminopropyl betaine, cocoalkyldimethyl betaine, and lauroaminopropyl betaine. Other suitable zwitterionic surfactants include cocoaminopropyl sulfonyl betaine, such as cocoaminopropyl hydroxysulfonyl betaine. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants include lauryl betaine, citrate betaine, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, (carboxymethyl)dimethyl-3-[(1-oxododecyl)amino]propylammonium hydroxide, cocoalkyldimethyl betaine, (carboxymethyl)dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoaminopropyl betaine, (carboxymethyl)dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoaminopropyl betaine, (carboxymethyl)dimethyl(octadecyl)ammonium, cocoaminopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine, or combinations thereof. Most preferred zwitterionic surfactants include cocoaminopropyl betaine, cocoaminopropyl betaine, lauroylaminopropyl betaine, cocoaminopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine, lauryl hydroxysulfonate betaine, cocamide monoethanolamide, or combinations thereof. Such surfactants are commercially available from suppliers such as Stepan Company, Solvay, Evonik, etc., and mixtures using the above surfactants are within the scope of the cleaning compositions disclosed herein.

[0054] Any mixture of the aforementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be used. A preferred mixture is a mixture of cocoaminopropyl betaine and another amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant as described above. A preferred other amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0055] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant and / or any emulsifier) ​​in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may be 1 to 50% by weight, for example 2 to 40% by weight, for example 10 to 40% by weight, for example 10 to 35% by weight, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0056] Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in shampoo compositions for enhancing conditioning properties, particularly in hair treatment compositions.

[0057] The desired cationic polymer can be a cationically substituted homopolymer, or it can be formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight-average mass ratio (Mi) of the polymer is... w The molecular weight can range from 100,000 to 2 million Daltons. The polymer will have cationic nitrogen-containing groups, such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or combinations thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, the conditioning effect will be poor. If it is too high, there may be a problem with high tensile viscosity, causing the composition to string when poured.

[0058] The cationic nitrogen-containing group can typically be present as a substituent on all monomer units of the cationic polymer. Therefore, when the polymer is not a homopolymer, it can contain spaced non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to obtain a polymer with a cationic charge density within the desired range, typically from 0.2 to 3.0 milliequivalents per gram (meq / gm). The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined by the Kjeldahl method, as described in the United States Pharmacopeia under the chemical conditions for nitrogen determination.

[0059] Desired cationic polymers include copolymers of vinyl monomers, for example, having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functional groups, with water-soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamide, alkyl (meth)acrylates, vinylcaprolactone, and vinylpyrrolidine. Alkyl and dialkyl-substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohols, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.

[0060] Depending on the specific type and pH of the composition, the cationic amine can be a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine. Generally, secondary and tertiary amines are preferred, especially tertiary amines.

[0061] Amine-substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in amine form and then converted to ammonium via quaternization.

[0062] Cationic polymers may comprise a mixture of monomer units derived from amino-substituted and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomers and / or compatible spacer monomers.

[0063] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: - Cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium polymers, including, for example, dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternary ammonium salt 6 and polyquaternary ammonium salt 7, respectively. - Inorganic acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms (as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,009,256); - Cationic polyacrylamide (as described in International Application No. WO 95 / 22311).

[0064] - Cationic polymers containing diallyl quaternary ammonium, including polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethylammonium substituted derivatives (PQ-10); - PQ-28 (Polyvinylpyrrolidone-methacrylaminopropyltrimethylammonium chloride).

[0065] Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

[0066] Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers for use in the compositions disclosed herein include monomers of the following formula: AO-[RN + (R 1 (R) 2 (R) 3 )X - ], Wherein: A is a dehydrated glucose residue, such as a starch or cellulose dehydrated glucose residue. R is an alkylene, alkylene oxide, polyalkylene oxide, or hydroxyalkylene, or a combination thereof. 1 R 2 and R 3 Independently representing alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, aralkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group contains up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms in each cationic moiety (i.e., R...) 1 R2 and R 3 The total number of carbon atoms in X is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anion or counterion.

[0067] Another class of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethylammonium-substituted epoxides, known in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternary ammonium salt 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corporation, for example, under the trade name Polymer LM-200.

[0068] Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418) and etherified cellulose-starch copolymers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581).

[0069] A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer is cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar gum hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia under its JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR™ C13S, JAGUAR™ C14, JAGUAR™ C15, and JAGUAR™ C17.

[0070] A mixture of any of the above-mentioned cationic polymers can be used.

[0071] Based on the total weight of the composition, the cationic polymer is typically present in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition at a content of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 1%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.5% by weight of the total cationic polymer, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0072] The aqueous shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition may further comprise a suspending agent. Desired suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acid, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with hydrophobic monomers, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers with acrylates, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid with acrylates, heteropolysaccharide gums, and crystalline long-chain acrylic derivatives. The long-chain acrylic derivatives are preferably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3-distearate are preferred long-chain acrylic derivatives because they impart pearlescent properties to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is commercially available as CARBOPOL™ 420, CARBOPOL™ 488, or CARBOPOL™ 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with multifunctional agents may also be used; these are commercially available as CARBOPOL™ 910, CARBOPOL™ 934, CARBOPOL™ 941, and CARBOPOL™ 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid-containing monomer and an acrylate is CARBOPOL™ 1342. All CARBOPOL™ materials are commercially available from Goodrich.

[0073] Suitable crosspolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate are PEMULEN™ TR1 or PEMULEN™ TR2. Suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, which is available, for example, as Kelzan mu.

[0074] A mixture of any of the above-mentioned suspending agents can be used. A mixture of cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and crystalline long-chain acyl derivatives is preferred.

[0075] Based on the total weight of the composition, the suspending agent may typically be present in the shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, for example 0.5 to 6% by weight, for example 0.9 to 4% by weight, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0076] Conditioning products (wash-out, leave-in, hair masks, oils, serums) Conditioning compositions typically contain one or more cosmetically acceptable cationic conditioning surfactants suitable for topical application to hair.

[0077] Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactant has the formula N + (R 1 (R) 2 (R) 3 (R) 4 ), where R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 Independently for (C1 to C)30 )Alkyl or benzyl.

[0078] Preferably, R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 One, two, or three independently constitute (C4 to C) 30 )alkyl, while R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 One or more other groups in it are (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl.

[0079] More preferably, R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 One or two of them are independently (C6 to C) 30 )alkyl, while R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 Other groups in the alkyl group are (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl. Optionally, the alkyl group may contain one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) bonds and / or ether (-O-) bonds within the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be straight-chain or branched, and for alkyl groups having three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl groups). The alkyl group is optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethoxyl groups.

[0080] The hair treatment composition may contain 0.01 to 10% by weight of a major linear cationic conditioning surfactant, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; selected from Structure 1 and mixtures thereof. Structure 1 in: • R1 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of C16 to C24, preferably C18 to C22; • R2 contains a proton or a linear alkyl chain or benzyl group having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2; and • X is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0081] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from that of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 to 12 carbon atoms, even more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, so that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than that of R3 in structure 2.

[0082] In structure 1, the amine head group is charged within the final formulation. The original material includes substances in which the charge is not permanent and can be induced by protonation in the formulation using a strong acid. When R2 is a proton in the above general formula, the proton may be present in the original material or become associated during formulation.

[0083] Optionally, the alkyl group may contain one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) bonds, amide (-NOC- or NCO-) bonds, and / or ether (-O-) bonds in the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be straight-chain or branched, and for alkyl groups having three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl groups). The alkyl group is optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethoxy groups.

[0084] Suitable quaternary ammonium salts for use in conditioning compositions are those containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0085] Suitable quaternary ammonium salts for use in conditioning compositions include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, behenylaminopropyl dimethylamine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, silachlor, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium methyl sulfate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow-based trimethylammonium chloride, and dihydrotalloy-based dimethylammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad from Akzo Nobel). 2HT / 75), cocoyl trimethylammonium chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0086] Preferred quaternary ammonium salts may be selected from benzyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate salt, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or combinations thereof. Benzyltrimethylammonium chloride may be combined with solvents in the composition (e.g., isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, etc.).

[0087] The composition may contain a linear cationic co-surfactant according to structure 2: Structure 2 in: • R2 contains a proton or a linear alkyl chain or benzyl group having a carbon-carbon chain length of C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2; • R3 includes C3 to but not including C 16 C is preferred 10 To C 14 Linear alkyl chains with carbon-carbon chain lengths; and • X is an organic or inorganic anion; In structure 1, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 differs from that of R3 in structure 2 by at least 3 carbon atoms, making the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 longer than that of R3 in structure 2; and The molar ratio of the linear cationic co-surfactant (iv) to the linear cationic conditioning main surfactant (i) is 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and preferably 1:5 to 1:2.

[0088] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from that of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 to 12 carbon atoms, even more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, so that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 is longer than that of R3 in structure 2.

[0089] R3 includes C3 to C 16 But excluding C 16 Preferably C3 to C 14 More preferably C6 to C 14 Even more preferably C8 to C 14 The most preferred option is C. 10 To C 14 Linear alkyl chains of carbon-carbon chain length.

[0090] Based on the weight of the total composition, the linear co-surfactant may be present in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.2 to 0.7% by weight, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained herein.

[0091] X is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, X comprises anion selected from halide ions; general formula RSO3 - The sulfate group, wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and the anionic group of an organic acid.

[0092] Preferred halide ions are selected from fluoride ions, chloride ions, bromide ions, and iodide ions. Preferred anionic groups of organic acids are selected from maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate, and acetate. Preferred sulfate groups are methanesulfonate and ethanesulfonate.

[0093] Most preferably, X - It contains anions selected from halide ions, methanesulfonate and ethanesulfonate.

[0094] In a preferred embodiment • R3 contains C 10 To C 14 Saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chains of varying carbon-carbon chain lengths; • R2 contains a proton or an alkyl chain with a carbon-carbon chain length of C1 to C2; and • X is selected from halide ions, methanesulfonate ions, and ethanesulfonate ions.

[0095] An example of a suitable material according to structure 2 is dodecyl-trimethylammonium chloride.

[0096] Cationic conditioning surfactants suitable for use in conditioning compositions for hair treatment compositions include quaternary ammonium salts, amine salts, or combinations thereof. These cationic surfactants may include benzyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow-based trimethylammonium chloride, dihydrotallow-based dimethylammonium chloride, cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride, PEG- 2-Oleylmethylammonium chloride and its corresponding hydroxides, stearoylaminopropyl dimethylamine, stearoylaminopropyl diethylamine, stearoylaminoethyl diethylamine, stearoylaminoethyl dimethylamine, palmitoylaminopropyl dimethylamine, palmitoylaminopropyl diethylamine, palmitoylaminoethyl diethylamine, palmitoylaminoethyl dimethylamine, benzylaminopropyl dimethylamine, benzylaminopropyl diethylamine, benzylaminoethyl diethylamine, benzylaminoethyl dimethylamine, arachidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, and / or combinations thereof.

[0097] Other suitable cationic surfactants include those materials with the CTFA names Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31, and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the aforementioned materials may also be suitable. The cationic surfactant used in the conditioner may be cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available, for example, as GENAMIN CTAC from Hoechst Celanese. Another cationic surfactant used in the conditioner may be benzyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available, for example, as GENAMIN KDMP from Clariant.

[0098] Another example of a suitable class of cationic conditioning surfactants, alone or in combination with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants, is the combination of the following (i) and (ii): (i) Acetamidoamines corresponding to general formula (I): Where R 1 It is a hydrocarbon chain with 10 or more carbon atoms. R 2 and R 3 Independently selected hydrocarbon chains of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to 10; and (ii) Acid.

[0099] As used in this article, the term "hydrocarbon chain" refers to an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

[0100] Preferred amide compounds are those corresponding to formula (I), wherein R 1 It consists of hydrocarbon residues with 11 to 24 carbon atoms. R 2 and R 3 Each is independently a hydrocarbon residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group, and m is an integer from 1 to 4.

[0101] Preferably, R 2 and R 3 It is methyl or ethyl.

[0102] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e., ethylene or propylene.

[0103] Preferred amides that may be used herein include stearoylaminopropyl dimethylamine, stearoylaminopropyl diethylamine, stearoylaminoethyl diethylamine, stearoylaminoethyl dimethylamine, palmitoylaminopropyl dimethylamine, palmitoylaminopropyl diethylamine, palmitoylaminoethyl diethylamine, palmitoylaminoethyl dimethylamine, benzylaminopropyl dimethylamine, benzylaminopropyl diethylamine, benzylaminoethyl diethylamine, benzylaminoethyl dimethylamine, arachidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, or combinations thereof.

[0104] The particularly preferred amides that can be used in this document are stearoylpropyl dimethylamine, stearoyl ethyl diethylamine, or combinations thereof.

[0105] Commercially available amides that may be used in this document include: stearoylaminopropyl dimethylamine, available under the trade name LEXAMINE™ S-13 from Innolex (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE™ MSP from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan); stearoylaminoethyl diethylamine, available under the trade name AMIDOAMINE™ S from Nikko; benzylaminopropyl dimethylamine, available under the trade name INCROMINE™ BB from Croda (NorthHumberside, UK); and various amides available under the trade name SCHERCODINE™ series from Scher (Clifton, New Jersey, USA).

[0106] Acid (ii) can be any organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating the amide in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids that may be used herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] The primary function of the acid is to protonate the amides in the hair treatment composition, thereby forming tertiary amine salts (TAS) in situ within the composition. TAS are essentially non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants.

[0108] Suitable, the acid is included in an amount sufficient to protonate all present amides, i.e., in an amount at least equimolar to the amount of amides present in the composition.

[0109] In the conditioning agent of the hair treatment composition, the content of the cationic conditioning surfactant may be from 0.01 to 10% based on the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.05 to 7.5%, for example from 0.1 to 6%, for example from 1 to 6%, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0110] Conditioners often also contain fatty alcohols. It is considered particularly advantageous to use fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in combination in conditioning compositions, as this results in the formation of a layered phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0111] Representative fatty alcohols contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight-chain alkyl groups. Examples of desirable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or combinations thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous because they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of the hair treatment composition.

[0112] The fatty alcohol content in the conditioning agents disclosed herein may be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, for example, 0.1 to 8% by weight, for example, 0.2 to 7% by weight, for example, 0.3 to 6% by weight, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained herein. The weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty alcohol may be from 1:1 to 1:10, for example, 1:1.5 to 1:8, for example, 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty alcohol is too high, this may cause eye irritation of the composition. If it is too low, it may cause some consumers to experience a rough feeling in their hair.

[0113] amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain amino acids, which may be basic amino acids, acidic amino acids, aliphatic amino acids, aromatic amino acids, neutral amino acids, or combinations thereof. The term "amino acid" refers to a molecule containing both an amino group and a carboxyl group. The amino acid may belong to the L- or D-series or may be racemic.

[0114] basic amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain basic amino acids.

[0115] The term "basic amino acid" refers to an amino acid that contains more basic groups (such as amino, amido, or guanidino) than a carboxyl group. Examples of such basic amino acids are natural and non-natural diamino-monocarboxylic acids, such as α,β-diaminopropionic acid; α,γ-diaminobutyric acid; lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithine, and p-aminophenylalanine.

[0116] The basic amino acids are typically separated from their natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts, which are also suitable for use. These salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, etc., or organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid, etc. An example is arginine hydrochloride.

[0117] Other derivatives, such as N-substituted derivatives and peptide derivatives, can also be used. These can also be used as salts or acid salts. Examples of N-substituted derivatives are N-alkanoyl derivatives and N-alkyl derivatives. Typically, in N-alkanoyl derivatives, the alkanoyl group has an alkyl chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as N-butyryl, N-hexanoyl, and N-octanoyl. In N-alkyl derivatives, the alkyl group typically has an alkyl chain length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and n-propyl. Examples of peptide derivatives are those in which the peptide residues comprise 2 to 8 amino acid residues or substituted amino acid residues.

[0118] Any mixture of the above materials may also be used in hair treatment compositions.

[0119] Preferred basic amino acids for use in hair treatment compositions include arginine (e.g., L-arginine), histidine (e.g., L-histidine), or combinations thereof.

[0120] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of basic amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be 0.005 to 10% by weight of the total basic amino acids, for example 0.05 to 1%, for example 0.1 to 0.4%, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0121] acidic amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain acidic amino acids. Acidic amino acids are those with acidic side chains, particularly those containing carboxylic acid groups, wherein the pKa value is low enough to lose a proton and become negatively charged. Acidic amino acids are also, by their very nature, hydrophilic amino acids (meaning they are water-loving, as opposed to hydrophobic amino acids) and polar amino acids (meaning they are positively charged, as opposed to nonpolar amino acids).

[0122] Acidic amino acids may include aspartic acid, glutamic acid (e.g., L-glutamic acid), or combinations thereof.

[0123] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of acidic amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be from 0.005 to 10% by weight of the total acidic amino acids, for example from 0.1 to 0.4%, for example from 0.1 to 0.3%, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0124] Aliphatic amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain aliphatic amino acids.

[0125] The term "aliphatic amino acid" refers to amino acids that have aliphatic side chains.

[0126] Examples of suitable aliphatic amino acids have the general formula: CH(COOH)(NHR1)(R2), where R1 is hydrogen or an alkyl chain with a length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 is hydrogen or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0127] In the preferred aliphatic amino acids used, R1 is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R2 is selected from H, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2 and -CH(CH3)-CH2CH3.

[0128] Aliphatic amino acids may include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, valine, or combinations thereof.

[0129] Any mixture of the above materials may also be used in hair treatment compositions.

[0130] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of aliphatic amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be from 0.005 to 10% by weight of the total aliphatic amino acids, for example from 0.1 to 0.4%, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0131] Aromatic amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain aromatic amino acids. Aromatic amino acids (AAA) are amino acids containing an aromatic ring.

[0132] Aromatic amino acids may include phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, or combinations thereof.

[0133] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of aromatic amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be from 0.005 to 10% by weight of the total aromatic amino acids, for example from 0.1 to 0.4%, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0134] neutral amino acids Hair treatment compositions may contain neutral amino acids. Neutral amino acids contain equal amounts of amino and carboxyl groups.

[0135] Neutral amino acids may include asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, serine, threonine, or combinations thereof. Preferred materials may be N-methylglycine (also known as sarcosine).

[0136] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of neutral amino acids in the hair treatment composition may be 0.005 to 10% by weight of the total weight of neutral amino acids, for example 0.1 to 5%, for example 0.1 to 2%, for example 0.1 to 1%, for example 0.1 to 0.5%, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0137] Fiber active substances Fiber-active substances can be present in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. These substances can penetrate into hair fibers to block water adsorption sites via steric means. The ability to reduce moisture content can lead to improved biomechanical properties, such as stronger hair. This mechanism works best at low pH levels due to optimal penetration into the hair fibers. Smaller molecules generally have better penetration. For example, carboxylic acid-citric acid can penetrate hair and bind to matrix proteins, thus swelling and increasing smoother hair and less roughness. The same applies to gluconolactone converted to gluconic acid. Fiber-active substances penetrate into hair fibers and influence changes, such as modifying proteins or creating internal bonds, and can also provide increased fiber stiffness. Acids, such as fiber-active substances, have an affinity for hair and can reduce water absorption by blocking sites where water would otherwise otherwise adsorb.

[0138] The active fiber material may include gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or combinations thereof; preferably, the gluconic acid includes sodium gluconate, and preferably the citric acid includes sodium citrate.

[0139] Based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, the fibrous active substance may be present in amounts from 0.01 to 5% by weight, for example from 0.05 to 4.0% by weight, for example from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, for example from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0140] Forms of the composition Hair treatment compositions can be in the form of shampoos, conditioners (wash-out, leave-in), hair masks, serums, or hair oils for use before or after washing. Typically, hair oils primarily contain water-insoluble oily conditioning ingredients such as triglycerides, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Hair treatment compositions can also be in the form of hair lotions, typically used between washes. An emulsion is an aqueous emulsion containing water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Desired surfactants can also be included in the emulsion to improve their stability against phase separation.

[0142] The hair treatment composition may be in the form of a shampoo, a wash-out hair conditioner, a hair mask, a leave-in conditioner composition, or a pretreatment composition. The hair treatment composition may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6, and more preferably 3 to 5.

[0143] Hair treatment compositions, particularly water-based shampoos and hair conditioners, may also contain one or more silicone conditioners.

[0144] Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions, such as those formed from silicones, such as polydimethylsiloxanes, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes with the CTFA name dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxyl-terminated groups with the CTFA name polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, and amino-functionalized polydimethylsiloxanes with the CTFA name amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane.

[0145] The emulsion droplets in the composition typically have a Sauter average droplet diameter (D) of 0.01 to 20 micrometers (μm), more preferably 0.2 to 10 μm. 3,2 ).

[0146] Used to measure the average droplet diameter (D) of Sauter 3,2 A suitable method is to use laser scattering by an instrument (such as the Malvern Mastersizer).

[0147] Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the compositions disclosed herein are commercially available from silicone suppliers such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. Pre-formed silicone emulsions of this type are preferred for ease of handling and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions typically additionally contain suitable emulsifiers, such as anionic or nonionic emulsifiers, or mixtures thereof, and can be prepared by chemical emulsification processes such as emulsion polymerization or by mechanical emulsification using a high-shear mixer. A Sauter average droplet diameter (D) of less than 0.15 micrometers is desired. 3,2 Preformed silicone emulsions are often referred to as microemulsions.

[0148] Examples of suitable preformed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions / microemulsions of polydimethylsiloxane alcohol. Also suitable are amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane emulsions, such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE Silicones).

[0149] Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which specific types of high molecular weight surfactant block copolymers have been blended with silicone emulsion droplets, as described, for example, in International Application No. WO 2003 / 094874. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes (e.g., those mentioned above). A preferred form of the surfactant block copolymer is according to the following formula: HO(CH2CH2O) x (CH(CH3)CH2O) y (CH2CH2O) x H The average value of x is 4 or greater, and the average value of y is 25 or greater.

[0150] Another preferred form of the surface-active block copolymer is according to the following formula: (HO(CH2CH2O) a (CH(CH3)CH2O) b )2-N-CH2-CH2-N((OCH2CH(CH3)) b (OCH2CH2) a OH)2 The average value of a is 2 or greater, and the average value of b is 6 or greater.

[0151] A mixture of any of the above silicone emulsions may also be used.

[0152] Based on the total weight of the composition, the aforementioned silicone emulsion is typically present in the compositions disclosed herein at a content of 0.05 to 10%, for example 0.05 to 5%, for example 0.5 to 2%, based on the total weight of the silicone, including any and all ranges and values ​​contained therein.

[0153] Other ingredients Hair treatment compositions may contain other ingredients to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusters, pearlescent or opaque agents, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobial agents. Each of these ingredients is present in an amount sufficient to effectively achieve its purpose. Typically, these optional ingredients are individually contained in a maximum of 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0154] The hair treatment compositions are primarily intended to be applied topically to the hair and / or scalp of human subjects in the form of wash-off or leave-in compositions for the treatment of dry, damaged, and / or unmanageable hair.

[0155] Hair treatment compositions may additionally contain up to 30% by weight of skin-beneficial agents. The term "skin-beneficial agent" is defined as a substance that softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthful appearance of the skin (stratum corneum) by increasing its water content, adding or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both, and maintains its softness by delaying the reduction of its water content. Suitable skin-beneficial agents include emollients, including, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Preferred beneficial agents include moisturizers, emollients, sunscreens, and anti-aging compounds.

[0156] Skin-beneficial agents optionally present in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein are expected to include niacinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (vitamin E), aloe vera, α-hydroxy acids and esters, β-hydroxy acids and esters, hydroxyethyl urea, polyhydroxy acids and esters, creatine, hydroquinone, tert-butylhydroquinone, mulberry, hyaluronic acid and its salts (including, but not limited to, their Na+ and K+ salts), extracts, licorice extract, resorcinol derivatives, or combinations thereof. For example, a skin-beneficial agent may be sodium hyaluronate. Based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, such beneficial agents, including sodium hyaluronate, may be present in amounts from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, for example, from 0.001 to 6.5% by weight, for example, from 0.01 to 3.5% by weight, for example, 0.01% by weight, including all values ​​and ranges contained herein.

[0157] Other optional water-soluble skin benefits include acids, such as amino acids like arginine, valine, or histidine. Other vitamins can be used, such as vitamin B2, pyridineamide, panthenol (vitamin B5), vitamin B6, vitamin C, and combinations thereof. Derivatives (generally referring to substances already developed or obtained from other substances), especially water-soluble derivatives of these vitamins, can also be used. For example, vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbate tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbate phosphate, and ascorbate glycoside can be used alone or in combination with each other. Nicotinamide derivatives such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH) can be used alone or in combination with each other. Other skin benefits that can be used include 4-ethylresorcinol, extracts such as sage, aloe vera, green tea, sugarcane, citrus, grape seed, thyme, chamomile, yarrow, cucumber, licorice, rosemary extracts, or combinations thereof. Electrolytes, such as NaCl and / or KCl, MgCl2, may also be used. When present in the compositions disclosed herein, the total amount of water-soluble beneficial agents (including mixtures) optionally present may be 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6.5% by weight, and most preferably 0.01 to 3.5% by weight, including all values ​​and ranges contained herein, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0158] Also within the scope of hair treatment compositions is the optional inclusion of oil-soluble beneficial agents. Illustrative examples of types of oil-soluble beneficial agents that may be optionally used in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein include components such as stearic acid, vitamins such as vitamins A, D, E, and K (and their oil-soluble derivatives).

[0159] Other optional oil-soluble beneficial agents used include resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives such as 4-hexylresorcinol, 4-phenylethylresorcinol, 4-cyclopentylresorcinol, 4-cyclohexylresorcinol, 4-isopropylresorcinol, or combinations thereof. Additionally, 5-substituted resorcinols, such as 4-cyclohexyl-5-methylphenyl-1,3-diol, 4-isopropyl-5-methylphenyl-1,3-diol, combinations thereof, etc., can be used. The synthesis of said 5-substituted resorcinols is described in commonly assigned U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2016 / 0000669A1.

[0160] Other oil-soluble beneficial agents that may be used include omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids, clomiphene, magnolol, farnesol, ursolic acid, myristic acid, geraniol, oil-based betaine, and cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline. The essential components are: imidazoline, hexanoyl sphingosine, 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA), petropicrin, conjugated linoleic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, terpineol, and thymol. The dissolving agents are selected from limonene, pinene, camphene, cymene, citronellol, geraniol, nerol, linalool, rose alcohol, borneol, isoborneol, menthone, camphor, safrole, isosafrole, eugenol, isoeugenol, tea tree oil, eucalyptus oil, peppermint oil, neem oil, lemongrass oil, orange oil, bergamot oil, or combinations thereof.

[0161] Another optional oil-soluble beneficial agent that can be used is a retinoic acid precursor. The retinoic acid precursor can be retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl ester, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, or combinations thereof. Retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, and combinations thereof are generally preferred. Another retinoic acid precursor for use is provided by Molecular Design International under the name RETEXTRA. ® Commercially available hydroxyanasatil retinoate. It can be used in combination with any oil-soluble beneficial agents described herein.

[0162] When an oil-soluble beneficial agent is optionally present (i.e., 0.0 to 1.5% by weight) in a hair treatment composition, it is typically present in an amount of 0.001 to 1.5% by weight of the total hair treatment composition, for example, 0.05 to 1.2% by weight, or 0.2 to 0.5% by weight, including all values ​​and ranges contained herein.

[0163] Other available skin benefits include the following: (a) Silicone oils and their modifiers, such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl and aryl silicone oils; (b) Fats and oils, including natural fats and oils such as jojoba oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, rice bran oil, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil, coconut oil, and mink oil; cocoa butter; beef tallow and lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenation of the above oils; and synthetic monoglycerides, diglycerides, and triglycerides, such as glyceryl myristate and glyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate; (c) Waxes, such as carnauba wax, cetacean wax, beeswax, lanolin and their derivatives; (d) Hydrophobic and hydrophilic plant extracts; (e) Hydrocarbons, such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pterostilbene and mineral oil; (f) Higher fatty acids, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, benzolic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lanolic acid, isostearic acid, arachidonic acid and polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs); (g) Higher alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, betaine alcohol, cholesterol and 2-hexyldecyl alcohol; (h) Esters, such as cetyl caprylate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate, and alkyl tartrate; (i) Essential oils and their extracts, such as peppermint, jasmine, camphor, white cedarwood, bitter orange peel, rye, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, Satsuma mandarin, calamus, pine, lavender, bay leaf, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemongrass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grape seed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elderflower, geranium, linden flower, amaranth, seaweed, ginkgo, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oats, cocoa, orange blossom, vanilla, green tea, pennywort. Royal), aloe vera, menthol, eucalyptol, eugenol, citral, citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, pentene, limonene, and terpene oils; (j) Polyhydroxy alcohols, such as glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, etc.; and polyols, such as polyethylene glycol, examples of which are: Polyox WSR-205 PEG 14M, Polyox WSR-N-60K PEG 45M or Polyox WSR-N-750 and PEG 7M; (k) Lipids, such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudoceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957; (l) Vitamins, minerals and skin nutrients, such as milk, vitamins A, E and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components; (m) Sunscreen agents, such as octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxybenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); (n) phospholipids; and (o) Anti-aging compounds, such as α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids.

[0164] Preferred skin-beneficial agents include fatty acids, hydrocarbons, polyols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, wherein in one or more embodiments, at least one C 12 To C 18 Emollients such as fatty acids, petrolatum, glycerin, sorbitol, and / or propylene glycol are of particular interest. These agents can be added at appropriate steps during the preparation of the hair treatment composition. Some beneficial agents can be introduced as macro domains.

[0165] During the preparation of the bar, other optional ingredients may be added in appropriate amounts, such as antioxidants, fragrances, polymers, chelating agents, colorants, deodorants, dyes, enzymes, foaming agents, bactericides, antimicrobial agents, foaming agents, pearlescent agents, skin conditioning agents, stabilizers, or fat enriching agents. Preferably, these ingredients are added after the saponification step. Sodium metabisulfite, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), borax, or ethylhexyl hydroxybisphosphonic acid (EHDP) may be added to the formulation.

[0166] Additional optional ingredients that may be present in hair treatment compositions include, for example: fragrances; sequestering agents and chelating agents, such as tetrasodium EDTA, ethane-hydroxybisphosphonate (EHDP), and hydroxyethyl phosphonate, also known as 1-hydroxyethylidene bisphosphonate (HEDP); colorants; opacifiers and pearlescent agents, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiO2, ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS), ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS), or Lytron 621 (styrene / acrylate copolymer); pH adjusters; antioxidants, such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT); stabilizers; foaming agents, such as coconut acyl mono- or diethanolamide; ionized salts, such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate; and other ingredients, such as those conventionally used in hair treatment compositions. Based on the total weight of the personal care formulation, the total amount of such additional optional ingredients is typically 0 to 10% by weight, and more specifically 0.1 to 5% by weight.

[0167] Preservatives may be used in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. Illustrative preservatives used include sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, dimethyl dimethylhydantoin (DMDM), and benzyl alcohol, or combinations thereof. Other suitable preservatives include sodium dehydroacetate, chlorophenoxyacetate, and decanediol. Preservatives are preferably used in amounts from 0.01% by weight to 2.0% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including all values ​​and ranges contained therein. Preservative systems containing hydroxyacetophenone alone or in combination with other preservatives are also preferred.

[0168] The hair treatment composition may optionally include fragrance, fixative, opacifier (e.g., titanium dioxide or glycol distearate), and chelating agent. Possible chelating agents include, but are not limited to, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, trisodium N-(hydroxyethyl)-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, acidic forms of EDTA, sodium thiocyanate, trisodium salt of methylglycine diacetic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and phytic acid. Preferably, said chelating agent is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), or combinations thereof. Each of these substances may be present in an amount of about 0.03 to about 3% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 2.6% by weight, based on the total hair treatment composition, including any and all values ​​and ranges contained therein.

[0169] The hair treatment composition may contain a polyelectrolyte complex. The polyelectrolyte complex may contain a copolymer of a polyquaternary ammonium salt and a methacrylate (salt).

[0170] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein may be free of or substantially free of sulfates, parabens, phthalates and / or petrolatum.

[0171] A method for treating hair with the disclosed hair treatment composition is envisioned. The method may include applying a hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to the hair. The hair may be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. Damage may be any type of damage disclosed herein, including bleaching. The shampoo may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes, and then the hair treatment composition disclosed herein may be applied to the same hair in the form of a conditioner. The conditioner may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes. A leave-in conditioner as disclosed herein may be applied to the same hair and rinsed off after a period of less than or equal to 1 hour. The hair may then be dried (e.g., air-dried, blow-dried, etc.) at a relative humidity of 60% for at least 8 hours. The above method may be repeated on the same hair up to 20 times.

[0172] In another approach, any shampoo and conditioner may be used prior to applying the hair treatment composition disclosed herein to straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair.

[0173] In another method, hair treatment may include applying a hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to the hair. The hair may be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair may be virgin hair or damaged hair. The damage may be any type of damage disclosed herein, including bleaching. The shampoo may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes, and then the hair treatment composition disclosed herein may be applied to the same hair in the form of a conditioner. The conditioner may be rinsed off the hair after a period of less than 5 minutes. A leave-in conditioner as disclosed herein may be applied to the same hair. The hair may then be dried (e.g., air-dried, blow-dried, etc.) at a relative humidity of 60% for at least 8 hours. The above method may be repeated on the same hair up to 20 times.

[0174] In another approach, any shampoo and conditioner may be used prior to applying the hair treatment composition disclosed herein to straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair.

[0175] The technical properties of hair change significantly with varying moisture content. This occurs because water solubilizes auxiliary strength-supporting hydrogen bonds and salt bridges within the hair, resulting in reduced mechanical properties and swelling of the fiber size. Water acts as a plasticizer for the protein structure in hair, reducing its resistance to breakage. Water adsorption onto hair proteins leads to the breaking of hydrogen bonds. Styling is a result of hydrogen bond formation / repair, meaning that if hydrogen bonds break, the hair's biomechanical properties and styling ability are impaired.

[0176] In either method, it has been unexpectedly found that hydrogen bonds are reconstructed in the hair after the method is completed, hydrogen bonds are repaired in the hair after the method is completed, or hydrogen bonds are reconstructed and repaired during hair application of the method disclosed herein (any of the methods).

[0177] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can provide damage repair benefits to damaged hair through chemical or mechanical means. The hair can be of any type.

[0178] For example, gluconolactone (which converts to gluconic acid) and carboxylic acids (such as citric acid) penetrate into hair fibers to block water adsorption through steric hindrance. Water is a plasticizer for hair, so the ability to reduce moisture content should result in higher biomechanical properties. Acids have an affinity for hair, and they reduce water absorption by binding to sites where water would otherwise be adsorbed (water breaks hydrogen bonds).

[0179] The inclusion of amino acids in hair treatment compositions can help rebuild the peptide bonds that support protein structures. The basic side groups on arginine, histidine, and lysine, and the acidic side groups on aspartic acid and glutamic acid, can help build tertiary and quaternary protein structures.

[0180] The use of hair treatment compositions can provide lasting damage repair, such as increasing the denaturation temperature of proteins, or repairing or replacing hydrogen bonds, for example. Lasting means that the benefits persist after multiple treatments, preferably 2 to 5 treatments, compared to hair compositions that do not contain the amino acid mixtures disclosed herein.

[0181] The hair treatment composition may be applied to the hair at least once. The hair treatment composition may be applied to the hair 1 to 5 times, for example 1 to 10 times, for example 1 to 20 times, for example 1 to 25 times.

[0182] Surprisingly, it was found that after using the hair treatment composition disclosed herein once, hair breakage was reduced by more than or equal to 75% compared to non-conditioning shampoo, and preferably by more than or equal to 85% compared to hair not treated with the hair treatment composition disclosed herein (using any of the methods disclosed herein), more preferably by more than or equal to 95%.

[0183] An increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair was observed after using the hair treatment composition disclosed herein.

[0184] Compared to non-conditioning shampoos used on the same hair, hair treatment compositions increase hair hydration by 50% or more, preferably 60% or more, and more preferably 50% to 90% or more.

[0185] The hair treatment composition provides frizz control for 6 hours or more, preferably 12 hours or more, and more preferably 24 hours or more.

[0186] Unless otherwise expressly stated, all numerical values ​​indicating the amount of material or reaction conditions, physical properties of the material, and / or uses in this specification should be understood as being modified by “about”. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities are by weight of the final composition.

[0187] It should be noted that when specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular higher concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount and any subranges contained therein. In this regard, it should be noted that all ranges disclosed herein include endpoints, and endpoints can be combined independently of each other (e.g., “up to 25 wt%, or more specifically, 5 wt% to 20 wt%, including endpoints and all intermediate values ​​of the range 5 wt% to 25 wt% etc.”). “Combinations” include blends, mixtures, alloys, reaction products, etc. Furthermore, the terms “first,” “second,” etc., in this document do not indicate any order, quantity, or importance, but are used to distinguish one element from another. Unless otherwise stated herein or obviously contradicted by the context, the terms “a”, “an”, and “the” in this document do not indicate a limitation of quantity, but should be interpreted to cover both the singular and the plural. As used herein, the suffix “(s)” is intended to include both the singular and the plural of the term it modifies, thereby including one or more of that term (e.g., (one or more) membranes (film(s)) include one or more membranes). Throughout this specification, references to "an embodiment," "an aspect," "another embodiment," "another aspect," "an embodiment," "aspect," etc., indicate that a particular element (e.g., a feature, structure, and / or characteristic) described in connection with the said embodiment or aspect is included in at least one embodiment or aspect described herein, and may or may not be present in other embodiments or aspects. Furthermore, it should be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner across various embodiments or aspects.

[0188] All cited patents, patent applications, and other references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. However, if any terminology in this application contradicts or conflicts with terminology in the incorporated references, the terminology from this application shall take precedence over the conflicting terminology from the incorporated references. While specific aspects have been described, alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents may be conceived by the applicant or others skilled in the art that are not currently foreseeable or may not be currently foreseeable. Therefore, the appended claims, both filed and possibly amended, are intended to cover all such alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents.

[0189] To avoid ambiguity, the word "contains" is intended to mean "including" but not necessarily "consisting of" or "made up of". In other words, the steps, options, or alternatives listed do not have to be exhaustive.

[0190] The disclosure of the invention as found herein should be considered to cover all aspects found in claims that are multi-dependent, regardless of the fact that the claims may be found not to be multi-dependent or redundant. Unless otherwise stated, numerical ranges expressed in the format “x to y” are understood to include both x and y. In specifying a range of any value or quantity, any particular upper limit value or quantity may be associated with any particular lower limit value or quantity. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and ratios contained herein are by weight. Various features of the invention referred to in the foregoing individual sections, with necessary modifications, are suitably applied in other sections. Thus, features specified in one section may be suitably combined with features specified in other sections. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit this disclosure in any way.

[0191] Example The following examples are merely illustrative of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein and are not intended to limit their scope.

[0192] Example I In this embodiment, the effects of specific hair treatments on the hydrogen bonding network on or within hair fibers are investigated using attenuated total reflectance (ATR) spectroscopy and / or ATR-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy.

[0193] ATR-FTIR data were recorded using a PerkinElmer spotlight system 400 with an ATR accessory. The spectra were recorded using the following spectral parameters: Spectral resolution 8 cm reciprocal -1 ) 256 scans cumulative Range 4000 to 650cm -1 For each hair tress examined: Twelve scans were performed along the length of the hair strand (four near the root, four along the middle, and four near the tip).

[0194] The control sample was untreated bleached hair from mixed ethnicities.

[0195] The sample analysis was performed on hair strands treated with the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein.

[0196] The spectra collected from the hair bundles were averaged, and the peak positions and second derivative spectra were analyzed using Thermo Scientific GRAMS spectral analysis software.

[0197] Hyperspectral images were recorded using the following spectral parameters: For both control and treated samples, approximately 10 cross sections ranging from 6 to 8 micrometers (μm) were obtained using a cryostat.

[0198] ATF-FTIR imaging parameters Spatial resolution is 6.25μm Spectral resolution of 8 cm -1 64 scans cumulative Hair treatment solutions: Each treatment group used mixed ethnic hair bundles supplied by International Hair Importers. Each bundle was 8 inches long, 1 inch wide, and weighed approximately 3 grams (g).

[0199] 1. Bleach all four hair strands and normalize with 0.15 ml of non-conditioning shampoo, massage, and rinse under running water for 30 seconds each time.

[0200] 2. Fifty fibers from each hair bundle were preserved as a control for cross-sectioning.

[0201] 3. On damp hair, lather the hair strands with shampoo containing the formulation shown in Table 1 at 10% by weight / volume (w / v) relative to the hair for 30 seconds, then rinse under running water for 30 seconds each time.

[0202] 4. On damp hair, comb through the hair 10 times with a 15% w / v conditioner having the formulation shown in Table 2, leave on the hair for 3 minutes, and then rinse under water for 30 seconds each time.

[0203] 5. No-rinse application: Hair Regimen 1: Apply a 5.0% w / v leave-in conditioner having the composition shown in Table 3 to two hair strands on damp hair. Comb the formulation through the hair 10 times and allow it to dry on the hair for 1 hour, then rinse with 0.15 ml of non-conditioning shampoo.

[0204] Hair care regimen 2: Apply a 5.0% w / v leave-in conditioner having the composition shown in Table 4 to two hair strands on damp hair. Comb the formulation through the hair 10 times and leave it on to dry for 1 hour, then rinse with 0.15 ml of non-conditioning shampoo.

[0205] 6. After 1X treatment, the hair is dried overnight at 60% relative humidity.

[0206] 7. Save 50 fibers from each hair bundle as hair for a single (1X) treatment for cross-sectional measurements.

[0207] 8. Repeat steps 1 through 5 four times, for a total of five cycles. Between cycles 2 and 4, blow-dry the hair strands over low heat for 10 minutes to ensure they are dry.

[0208] 9. After 5 treatments (5X), dry the hair overnight at 60% relative humidity.

[0209] 10. Fifty fibers were retained for cross-sectional measurements.

[0210] The hair samples tested were: 1. Control - Untreated hair (bleached hair type 3) 2. Treat 1X hair (bleached hair type 3) with hair care program 1.

[0211] 3. Treat 5X hair (bleached hair type 3) with hair care program 1.

[0212] 4. Treat 1X hair with hair care program 2 (bleached hair type 3).

[0213] 5. Treat 5X hair (bleached hair type 3) with hair care solution 2.

[0214] Table 1: Shampoo Compositions

[0215] Table 2: Conditioner Compositions

[0216] Table 3: No-rinse conditioning agent composition 1

[0217] Table 4: No-rinse conditioning agent composition 2

[0218] ATR-FTIR Analysis - Hair Surface Analysis Hair care plan 1 Table 5 shows the band positions from the average surface ATR scan measurements performed on samples from the control, 1X, and 5X treatments of hair care regimen 1. (This surface ATR scan primarily characterizes the stratum corneum). The band used to characterize both the contribution of hydrogen bonding and changes in protein conformation is the amide A band (~3726 cm⁻¹), which is mainly caused by N-H₂ stretching. -1 It shows band shifts caused by hydrogen bonding, amide I, and amide II, which are independent of protein conformation. Amide I and amide II both identify protein skeletal conformation and hydrogen bonding, as well as environmental contributions. Due to the amide I band (~1640 cm⁻¹), -1 The contribution mainly comes from the C=O stretching of the protein backbone, and the amide II band (~1530 cm⁻¹) -1 The contribution is mainly due to CN stretching, and these bands show different sensitivities to hydrogen bonding and protein environment.

[0219] Table 5: Amide band positions from ATR-FTIR measurements of hair care regimen 1

[0220] As can be seen from Table 5, there is approximately 0.5cm. -1 The amide A displacement of the surface from control to 5X treatment (3380.9 cm) -1 →3380.4cm -1 ).

[0221] No significant shift was observed in the amide I region between the control and 1X-treated hair surfaces. The amide I region of these spectra is consistent with the results from amide A, where no band shift was observed from the control to the 1X-treated hair in this region. However, the 5X-treated sample showed a 2.5 cm shift relative to the control. -1 The displacement of amide I, which is consistent with the result of amide A in the direction.

[0222] Table 5 also details the potential contributions from their conformational components to the amide I and amide II bands, mostly (but not exclusively) from the α-helical and β-sheet structures of the protein backbone peptide bonds (with some contributions from disordered structures). Several differences exist between the second derivative spectra of the control and treated hair. The second derivatives of the control and 1X-treated treatment regimen 1 are well covered without showing significant differences. Compared to the control and 1X-treated, the α-helix intensity of the 5X-treated surface is weakened and shifted to lower wavenumbers. (Note that the β-sheet shifts to slightly higher wavenumbers). In amide II, for the 5X-treated, both the α-helix and β-sheet shift to higher wavenumbers.

[0223] From Table 5: The 1X treatment nursing regimen 1 showed that the band shift relative to the control was minimal.

[0224] The 5X treatment protocol 1 showed that, compared to the control, amide A and amide I shifted to lower wavenumbers.

[0225] The second derivative spectrum results are consistent with the primary spectrum results, wherein the α-helix of the 5X-treated hair care regimen 1 exhibits some intensity loss.

[0226] Hair care plan 2 The surface scans of hair care regimen 2 were analyzed in the same way as those of hair care regimen 1. The results are shown in Table 6.

[0227] Table 6: Amide band positions from ATR-FTIR measurements of hair care regimen 2

[0228] The stretching regions of amide A (N-H2) observed in Table 6 from hair care regimen 2 treatments show different behavior compared to hair care regimen 1. In terms of peak shift, the amide A peak does not appear to be particularly affected by the use of treatment regimen 2.

[0229] For hair care regimen 2, both the 1X and 5X treatments showed a similar degree of amide I band shift compared to the control. However, this shift was approximately 2 to 2.5 cm lower than that observed in treatment regimen 1. -1 This displacement behavior demonstrates that there is no substantial direct correlation between the environments of amide A and amide I.

[0230] As shown by the peak shift of amide I, the 1X and 5X treatments of treatment regimen 2 exhibited approximately equal effects. Both treatments showed a reduction in the α-helix relative to the β-sheet in both the amide I and amide II bands. Treatment regimen 2 significantly affected the α-helix.

[0231] From Table 6: For hair care regimen 2, both 1X and 5X treatments of hair fibers showed similar results.

[0232] Hair care regimen 2 showed that amide A was only slightly shifted to a lower wavenumber.

[0233] After 1X and 5X were applied, hair care regimen 2 treatment shifted the amide I band to a lower wavenumber.

[0234] ATR-FTIR Imaging Spectroscopy-Hair Cross-Section Analysis The same treatment is applied to the transversely cut hair fibers.

[0235] Table 7 lists the average data from cross-sectional images of hair from hair care program 1.

[0236] Table 7: Average amide band positions in hair care regimen 1

[0237] It was observed that the wavenumber of the amide A band generally decreased as the number of treatments increased from 1X to 5X, indicating an increase in hydrogen bonding under hair care regimen 1. Further observation showed that the wavenumber decrease proceeded from the outside to the inside of the cross-section with increasing treatment count. For the amide I band, the 1X treatment of hair care regimen 1 slightly reduced the wavenumber compared to the control, and the 5X treatment of hair care regimen 1 increased the wavenumber shift of this band compared to both the 1X and control treatments. 1656 cm⁻¹ in the 1X hair care regimen 1 fiber. -1 / 1624cm -1 The ratios did not differ significantly, but the ratio from the 5X treatment showed a large increase. From control to 1X treatment, and then to 5X treatment, there was also a loss of β-sheet relative to α-helix.

[0238] Table 8 lists the average data from cross-sectional images of hair from hair care program 2.

[0239] Table 8: Average amide band positions in hair care regimen 2

[0240] For both the 1X and 5X treatments of hair care regimen 2, a decrease in the wavenumber of the amide A band was observed, indicating an increase in hydrogen bonding under hair care regimen 2. The lowest wavenumber typically appears around the cuticle region and works inward with increasing treatment intensity. As observed in hair care regimen 1, the amide I band also exhibits a higher mean wavenumber, particularly at the 5X treatment level of hair care regimen 2. At the 5X treatment, a wavenumber of 1656 cm⁻¹ was observed. -1 / 1624cm -1 The gain was used to indicate the α-helix / β-fold ratio. This observation was similar to that observed in hair care regimen 1. For hair treatment regimen 2, using both 1X and 5X, a slight decrease was observed in the β-fold / α-helix ratio.

[0241] Based on the results in Tables 7 and 8, the formation of hydrogen bonds was observed to be strongest in hair care regimen 2. The effects of the hair care regimen were already significant after applying 1X with either hair care regimen 1 or hair care regimen 2.

[0242] Both surface scanning and ATR-FTIR imaging can visualize and assess the effects of no-wash formulations on both H-bonds and structural conformation. For surface scanning and cross-sectional visualization, the shift to lower wavenumbers observed for amide A clearly indicates the formation of hydrogen-bonded networks associated with hair care regimens 1 and 2. The highest hydrogen-bonded formation was observed after 5X treatment with hair care regimen 2. Both amide I and amide II bands demonstrate conformational and / or environmental differences in fibers produced by treatments 1 and 2.

[0243] Example II In this embodiment, three groups of Type 1 hair were double-bleached, the control sample (ConS) was not treated, the comparison samples (CompS1 and CompS2) were subjected to a two-step system of shampoo and conditioner, and the sample of the present invention (IS) was subjected to a three-step system of shampoo, conditioner and leave-in conditioner using formulations as disclosed herein and shown in Tables 9, 10 and 11.

[0244] Table 9: Shampoo Compositions

[0245] Table 10: Conditioner Compositions

[0246] Table 11: No-rinse conditioning agent compositions

[0247] Hair strand breakage Hair strands were commercially available from International Hair Importers and reflected two years of chemical damage. ConS samples were washed with a non-conditioning shampoo. CompS1 and CompS2 samples were washed with different commercially available shampoos and conditioners. IS samples were subjected to shampoos and conditioners as disclosed in Tables 9 and 10.

[0248] Each sample was then combed through 1,000 times from wet to dry, and the total breakage was measured (as a function of 1,000 combing passes through the sample). The results for shampoo and conditioner are shown in Table 12.

[0249] Table 12: Hair breakage caused by shampoos and conditioners

[0250] As can be seen from Table 12, compared with ConS, CompS1 and CompS2, the samples of the present invention have a significant reduction in the number of hair breaks, which indicates that even using only the shampoos and conditioners disclosed herein provides excellent protection for damaged hair.

[0251] In Table 13, the sample was subjected to shampoo and conditioner, and then a leave-in conditioner as shown in Table 11 was applied to the hair and not rinsed off. It should be noted that in this three-part system, the shampoo and conditioner used can be any shampoo and conditioner, and do not necessarily have to be those disclosed in Tables 9 and 10.

[0252] Table 13: Adhesion Breakage of Shampoo, Conditioner and Leave-in Conditioner

[0253] As can be seen from Table 13, compared with the control sample, this three-part system provides even fewer fractures, with 96% fewer fractures.

[0254] denaturation temperature Hair treatment First, samples C1, 1, and 2 were treated twice with an aqueous composition containing 14% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) at a concentration of 0.1 ml / 1 g of hair, using a combination of 30-second foaming and 30-second rinsing in tap water. Original hair was also tested.

[0255] Then, sample 1 was treated with the compositions in Tables 9 and 10 using the following methods: 0.1ml / 1g of hair for 30 seconds of foaming and 30 seconds of rinsing in tap water.

[0256] Then, sample 2 was treated with the compositions shown in Table 11 below: 0.2ml / 1g of hair for 60 seconds of application and 60 seconds of rinsing in tap water.

[0257] Then, the hair bundle is dried overnight at 20°C and 60% relative humidity.

[0258] The effect of the treatment Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) was used to measure the effect of the treatment.

[0259] Table 14: Average denaturation temperature and variation of denaturation temperature based on single use (1X)

[0260] As shown in Table 14, Sample 1 (shampoo and conditioner only) exhibited an increased denaturation temperature of keratin proteins compared to C1 treated with only the non-conditioning shampoo, indicating that the formulation has a positive effect on protein structure and integrity with continued use. Sample 2 (leave-in conditioner only) also showed an increased denaturation temperature of keratin proteins compared to the non-conditioning shampoo. This leave-in formula also has a positive effect on protein structure and integrity.

[0261] As shown in Table 15, similar results were observed when the wash was repeated five times (5X) and ten times (10X).

[0262] As shown in Table 15, Sample 1 (shampoo and conditioner only) exhibited an increased denaturation temperature of keratin proteins compared to C1 treated with only the non-conditioning shampoo, indicating that the formulation has a positive effect on protein structure and integrity with continued use. Sample 2 (leave-in conditioner only) also showed an increased denaturation temperature of keratin proteins compared to the non-conditioning shampoo. The leave-in formula also had a positive effect on protein structure and integrity.

[0263] Table 15: Average denaturation temperature and changes in denaturation temperature based on five washes (5X) and ten washes (10X).

[0264] ATR-FTIR imaging spectrum In this embodiment, the effects of specific hair treatments on the hydrogen bonding network on or within hair fibers are investigated using attenuated total reflectance (ATR) spectroscopy and / or ATR-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy.

[0265] ATR-FTIR data were recorded using a PerkinElmer spotlight system 400 with an ATR accessory. The spectra were recorded using the following spectral parameters: Spectral resolution 8 cm reciprocal -1 ) 256 scans cumulative Range 4000 to 650cm -1 For each hair strand examined: Twelve scans were performed along the length of the hair strand (four near the root, four along the middle, and four near the tip).

[0266] The control sample was untreated bleached hair from mixed ethnicities.

[0267] The sample analysis was performed on hair strands treated with the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein.

[0268] The spectra collected from the hair bundles were averaged, and the peak positions and second derivative spectra were analyzed using Thermo Scientific GRAMS spectral analysis software.

[0269] Hyperspectral images were recorded using the following spectral parameters: For both control and treated samples, approximately 10 cross sections ranging from 6 to 8 micrometers (μm) were obtained using a cryostat.

[0270] ATF-FTIR imaging parameters Spatial resolution is 6.25μm Spectral resolution of 8cm -1 64 scans cumulative Hair treatment solutions: Each treatment group used medium brown bleached hair bundles supplied by International Hair Importers and prepared by TRI. Each bundle was 8 inches long, 1 inch wide, and weighed approximately 3g.

[0271] 1. Bleach all 4 hair strands and normalize with 0.15ml of non-conditioning shampoo, massage, and rinse under water for 30 seconds each time.

[0272] 2. Fifty fibers from each hair bundle were preserved as a control for cross-sectional measurements.

[0273] 3. Shampoo and Conditioner: On damp hair, lather 10% w / v Scarlet shampoo onto the hair strands for 30 seconds, then rinse under water for 30 seconds each time. On damp hair, comb 15% w / v Scarlet conditioner through the hair 10 times, leave on the hair for 3 minutes, then rinse under water for 30 seconds each time.

[0274] Leave-in formula: Apply 5.0% w / v Scarlet Leave-in Formula #1 to damp hair strands. Comb the formulation through the hair 10 times and leave it to dry for 1 hour, then rinse with 0.15 ml of non-conditioning shampoo.

[0275] 4. After 5X treatment, dry the hair overnight at 60% relative humidity.

[0276] 5. Repeat steps 1 through 3 four times, for a total of five cycles. Between cycles 2 and 4, blow-dry the hair strands on low heat for 10 minutes to ensure they are dry.

[0277] 6. After 5X treatment, dry the hair overnight at 60% relative humidity.

[0278] 7. Retain 50 fibers for cross-sectional measurements.

[0279] System 1: Shampoo + Conditioner (as disclosed in Tables 9 and 10) System 2: No-rinse conditioner c The test was conducted after applying 5x.

[0280] The hair samples tested were: 1. Control - Untreated hair (bleached medium brown hair) 2. Treat 5X hair (bleached medium brown hair) with shampoo and conditioner as disclosed in Tables 9 and 10.

[0281] 3. Treat 5X hair (bleached medium brown hair) with a no-wash treatment (as disclosed in Tables 9 and 10).

[0282] ATR-FTIR Analysis - Hair Surface Analysis Table 16 shows the band positions from measurements of the average surface ATR scans performed on the control, shampoo and conditioner (SH+CD), and leave-in conditioner. (This surface ATR scan primarily characterizes the stratum corneum). The band used to characterize both the contribution of hydrogen bonding and changes in protein conformation is the amide A band (~3726 cm⁻¹), which is mainly caused by N-H₂ stretching. -1 It shows band shifts caused by hydrogen bonding, amide I, and amide II, which are independent of protein conformation. Amide I and amide II both identify protein skeletal conformation and hydrogen bonding, as well as environmental contributions. Due to the amide I band (~1640 cm⁻¹), -1 The contribution mainly comes from the C=O stretching of the protein backbone, and the amide II band (~1530 cm⁻¹) -1 The contribution is mainly due to CN stretching, and these bands show different sensitivities to hydrogen bonding and the protein environment. CH stretching regions are also shown in the IR spectra, which are valuable in determining whether residual products persist after washing.

[0283] Table 16: Positions of amide bands from ATR-FTIR measurements

[0284] For the control, SH+CD, and no-rinse treatments, the amide A shifts relative to the control surface were comparable for both the SH+CD (System 1) and no-rinse (System 2) treated surfaces. It is not intended to be theoretically rigorous; the comparable values ​​are believed to be solely due to residues left on the stratum corneum by the two treatments, where lower wavenumbers would be observed for Systems 1 and 2 in the absence of residues.

[0285] For the second derivative of the control system 1, there is a slight shift to a lower wavenumber.

[0286] From Table 16: No significant changes in hydrogen-bounding were observed in either of the two hair treatments (System 1 and System 2).

[0287] Compared to the control, the treatment showed a slight shift to a lower wavenumber in amide I (total 0.2 cm). -1 ).

[0288] According to the second derivative spectrum, the α-helix shows a slight shift at a lower wavenumber compared to the control.

[0289] The second derivative shift of amide II does not show a specific trend.

[0290] Significant build-up was observed in these hair treatments, especially in no-wash treatments, which could significantly affect spectral analysis (surface analysis).

[0291] ATR-FTIR Imaging Spectroscopy-Hair Cross-Section Analysis The same treatment has also been applied to cross-cut fibers.

[0292] System 1: SH+CD The observed overall decrease in wavenumber of the amide A band indicates an increase in hydrogen bonding in system 1 (e.g., from 3305 cm⁻¹). -1 Up to 3290cm -1 ).

[0293] System 2: No-rinse conditioner The observed overall decrease in wavenumber of the amide A band indicates an increase in hydrogen bonding in system 2 (e.g., from 3310 cm⁻¹). -1 Up to 3280cm -1 ).

[0294] Visualization of the cross-sectional hyperspectral images of systems 1 and 2 shows a shift to lower wavenumbers for the amide A band. This shift indicates the formation of a hydrogen bond network. The wavenumber of the amide I band increases slightly, while the wavenumbers of the amide II bands in both systems 1 and 2 decrease slightly, showing a value of 1548 / 1512 cm⁻¹. -1 The change in the ratio indicates structural modification within human hair fibers associated with these hair treatments.

Claims

1. A hair treatment composition comprising: Surfactants, wherein the surfactants include anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof; Amino acids, wherein the amino acids are basic amino acids, acidic amino acids, aliphatic amino acids, aromatic acids, neutral amino acids, or combinations thereof; wherein the basic amino acids are selected from arginine, histidine, lysine, or combinations thereof; wherein the acidic amino acids are selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, or combinations thereof; wherein the aliphatic amino acids are selected from alanine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, valine, or combinations thereof; wherein the aromatic amino acids are selected from phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, or combinations thereof; wherein the neutral amino acids include asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, serine, threonine, or combinations thereof; and The fiber-active substance is selected from gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or combinations thereof; preferably, the gluconic acid includes sodium gluconate, and preferably, the citric acid includes sodium citrate.

2. The hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant comprises an anionic surfactant selected from sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl ethanesulfonate, sodium cocoyl ethanesulfonate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium α-olefin sulfonate, or combinations thereof.

3. The hair treatment composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the cationic surfactant comprises a quaternary ammonium salt, an amine salt, or a combination thereof, preferably wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow-based trimethylammonium chloride, dihydrotalloy-based... Dimethylammonium chloride, cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleylmethylammonium chloride and their corresponding hydroxides, stearoylaminopropyl dimethylamine, stearoylaminopropyl diethylamine, stearoylaminoethyl diethylamine, stearoylaminoethyl dimethylamine, palmitoylaminopropyl dimethylamine, palmitoylaminopropyl diethylamine, palmitoylaminoethyl diethylamine, palmitoylaminoethyl dimethylamine, benzylaminopropyl dimethylamine, benzylaminopropyl diethylamine, benzylaminoethyl diethylamine, benzylaminoethyl dimethylamine, arachidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, arachidopropyl diethylamine, and / or combinations thereof.

4. The hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is selected from shampoos, shampoo-free hair conditioners, hair masks, leave-in conditioner compositions and pretreatment compositions, wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH of 3 to 7, preferably a pH of 3 to 6, more preferably a pH of 3 to 5.

5. The hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is free of sulfates, parabens, phthalates and petrolatum.

6. Methods for treating hair, including: a) Applying the hair treatment composition of any one of claims 1, 2, 4 and 5 in the form of a shampoo to melanin-rich, bleached hair; b) After a period of less than 5 minutes, rinse the shampoo from the hair; c) Applying the hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 to 5 to the same hair in the form of a conditioning agent; d) After a period of less than 5 minutes, rinse the conditioner from the hair; e) Applying the hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 to 5 in the form of a leave-on conditioner to the same hair; f) After a period of time less than or equal to 1 hour, rinse the leave-in conditioner from the hair; g) Dry the hair at a relative humidity of 60% for at least 8 hours; and i) Repeat steps a) to g) 1 to 5 times on the same hair.

7. Methods for treating hair, including: a) Apply the hair treatment composition to bleached hair in the form of a shampoo; b) After a period of less than 5 minutes, rinse the shampoo from the hair; c) Apply the hair treatment composition to the same hair as a conditioner; d) After a period of less than 5 minutes, rinse the conditioner from the hair; e) Applying the hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 to 5 in the form of a leave-on conditioner to the same hair; f) After a period of time less than or equal to 1 hour, rinse the leave-in conditioner from the hair; and g) Repeat steps a) to g) 1 to 25 times on the same hair.

8. The method according to claim 6 or claim 7, wherein hydrogen bonds are reconstructed in the hair after completing steps a) to g), wherein hydrogen bonds are repaired in the hair after completing steps a) to g), or wherein hydrogen bonds are reconstructed and repaired in the hair after completing steps a) to g).

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