Cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibres

Abstract

The presently claimed invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibres, methods and uses thereof. The presently claimed invention provides excellent semi-permanent moldability from eliminating hair curls to straightening bends and waves without compromising hair gloss, hair manageability and hair conditioning; unpleasant stabbing pain and itching feelings are not given to people; and the hair is not damaged. When flat perming the hair, the presently claimed invention also generates a minimal amount of smoke.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The presently claimed invention relates to a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of hair, methods thereof, and uses. The cosmetic composition comprises: at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof; at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl gluceth ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; diutan gum; at least one fatty alcohol; and at least one non-ionic surfactant. BACKGROUND

[0002] In an alternative to conventional methods for permanent deformation of hair for hair styling, methods for semi-permanent deformation of hair comprising alpha-keto acids are known. See, for example, PCT Application WO 2014 / 072491 Al published May 15, 2014, European Applications EP 3973944 Al and EP 3973945 Al published March 30, 2022.

[0003] Generally, to achieve satisfactory benefits in terms of straightening and anti-frizz, complex formulations and chemical processes are used. Even if satisfactory straightening and anti-frizz can be achieved with known compositions, these compositions can compromise hair shine and manageability. These compositions can also impart a stinging and itching sensation after flat-iron treatment is performed. These compositions can also leave unwanted residue on the hair. These compositions can also have a significant damaging profile. To compensate for these drawbacks and thereby achieve consumer acceptance, additional compounds are typically incorporated into the compositions, which further complex them. Various aspects including incorporation of significant amounts of alpha-keto acids, acidic pH of the composition, incorporation of additional compounds, etc. are associated with additional drawbacks as they compromise sustainability of the composition and they also affect the experience of the hair stylist and / or consumer during flat-iron treatment (due to generation of significant amounts of smoke).

[0004] Thus, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in particular human hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that can be used for the so-called "Brazilian hair straightening method". There is also a need to provide a composition having a wide range of activity from eliminating hair curl to straightening of bends and waves. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while providing excellent shine to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while providing excellent manageability to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while providing excellent conditioning to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while giving reduced or even preventing any stinging and itching sensation. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while having very low or even no damage profile. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while having a satisfactory sustainability, in particular by being an eco-ethical formula.

[0005] Thus, there is a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair that gives to the hair the benefits of hair compositions typically used for semi-permanent deformation, such as the benefits of hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning and damage profile, while generating a minimum amount of fumes during the application of the hair composition.

[0006] Thus, it is an object of the presently claimed invention to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair that gives to the hair the benefits of hair compositions typically used for semi-permanent deformation, such as the benefits of hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning and damage profile, while generating a minimum amount of fumes during the application of the hair composition. SUMMARY

[0007] Surprisingly, it has been found that combinations of compounds comprising a quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl gluconate containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and a dermal filler (particularly a combination of lauryl methyl gluceth-10-hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and a dermal filler) in gel network systems obtained from mixtures of fatty alcohols and nonionic surfactants allow the straightening properties provided by α-keto acids to be maintained without compromising the intended benefits, particularly in terms of hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning, and damage characteristics, and resulting in less smoke generation when used in flatbed perm treatments. Not wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the satisfactory properties of the composition are likely due to the physical and / or chemical interactions between the two compounds. On the one hand, when applied to hair, the two compounds can form hydrogen bonds with each other (physical interaction). On the other hand, when further heat is applied (particularly using a heating device), the two compounds can further form covalent bonds with each other (chemical interaction).

[0008] Therefore, in a first aspect, the invention currently claimed relates to a cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent modification of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, said cosmetic composition comprising:

[0009] (a) at least one α-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or hydrate;

[0010] (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxygen;

[0011] (c) Precipitating adhesive;

[0012] (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and

[0013] (e) at least one nonionic surfactant, said nonionic surfactant being different from component (d).

[0014] In a preferred embodiment, at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvate and 2-butanone; preferably, the α-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

[0015] In a preferred embodiment, at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl glucetol polyoxyethylene ether-10-hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

[0016] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of straight-chain or branched C14 to C30 fatty alcohols; more preferably, it is selected from straight-chain C14 to C30 fatty alcohols. 14 To C 30The group consisting of fatty alcohols; even more preferably the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0017] In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from polyethylene oxide C8 to C8. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having at least 2 or at least 5 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; more preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; more preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; even more preferably the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, at least one α-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from ≥3.0% to ≤25.0% by weight, preferably from ≥5.0% to ≤22.0% by weight, and more preferably from ≥10.0% to ≤19.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucosyl ether is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤10.0% by weight, more preferably from ≥0.1% to ≤5% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥0.5% to ≤3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the sorbitol is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01% to ≤1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition contains, preferably, ≥0.01 to ≤0.5% by weight, more preferably, ≥0.01 to ≤0.3% by weight; at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount relative to the total weight of the composition in the range of ≥2.5 to ≤20.0% by weight, preferably in the range of ≥3 to ≤15% by weight, more preferably in the range of ≥4 to ≤10% by weight; and / or at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount relative to the total weight of the composition in the range of ≥0.2 to ≤5.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of ≥0.5 to ≤4% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of ≥1.0 to ≤2.5% by weight.

[0019] In a preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition is below 4.0, preferably in the range of ≥1 to ≤3.5, and more preferably in the range of ≥1.5 to ≤3.0.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment, the viscosity of the composition determined by the method of this specification is in the range of ≥100 to ≤2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of ≥200 to ≤1,500 mPa·s, and more preferably in the range of ≥500 to ≤1,000 mPa·s.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises component (d) and component (e) in a weight ratio ranging from ≥10.0:0.5 to ≤10:4.0, more preferably from ≥10.0:1.0 to ≤10.0:3.5, and even more preferably from ≥10.0:1.5 to ≤10.0:3.0.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, components (d) and (e) are partially or entirely contained in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0024] In a second aspect, the invention currently claimed relates to a method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, the method comprising at least the following steps:

[0025] (A) Provide cosmetic compositions as defined above;

[0026] (B) Applying a cosmetic composition to hair; and

[0027] (C) Use a heating device to apply heat to the hair.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of ≥150 to ≤250°C, preferably in the range of ≥170 to ≤230°C, and more preferably in the range of ≥185 to ≤220°C.

[0029] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the heating device is a heating iron; preferably, the heating iron is selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron or a curling iron.

[0030] In a third aspect, the invention currently claimed relates to the use of cosmetic compositions as defined above for the semi-permanent modification of hair. Attached Figure Description

[0031] Figure 1 a and 1bThese are images taken using a scanning electron microscope (SEM) of untreated hair samples (control) at magnifications of 2,500× and 10,000×, respectively.

[0032] Figure 2a and 2b The images show SEM photographs of samples treated with the composition of the currently claimed invention at magnifications of 2,500× and 10,000×, respectively. Detailed Implementation

[0033] Before describing the compositions and formulations of the currently claimed invention, it should be understood that the invention is not limited to the specific compositions and formulations described, as such compositions and formulations can certainly be varied. It should also be understood that the terminology used herein is not intended to be limiting, as the scope of the currently claimed invention will be limited only by the appended claims.

[0034] If a group is defined below as including at least a certain number of embodiments, this means that it also includes a group preferably consisting only of these embodiments. Furthermore, the terms “first,” “second,” “third,” or “a,” “b,” “c,” etc., used in the specification and claims are used to distinguish similar elements and are not necessarily used to describe an order or temporal sequence. It should be understood that such terms are interchangeable where appropriate, and embodiments of the currently claimed invention described herein can operate in a different order than that described or shown herein. Where the terms “first,” “second,” “third,” or “(A),” “(B),” and “(C),” or “(a),” “(b),” “(c),” “(d),” “i,” “ii,” etc., relate to steps of a method or use or measurement, there is no temporal or time interval coherence between said steps; in other words, said steps may be performed simultaneously, or there may be time intervals of seconds, minutes, hours, days, weeks, months, or even years between these steps, unless otherwise specified in this application, as set forth above or below.

[0035] Furthermore, the range defined throughout the specification also includes end values; that is, the range of 1 to 10 means that both 1 and 10 are included in the range. For the avoidance of ambiguity, the applicant shall be entitled to any equivalent under applicable law.

[0036] The following paragraphs define in more detail the different aspects of the invention currently claimed. Each aspect thus defined may be combined with any other one or more aspects unless expressly indicated to the contrary. In particular, any feature indicated as preferred or advantageous may be combined with any other one or more features indicated as preferred or advantageous.

[0037] Throughout this specification, references to “one embodiment” or “implementation” mean that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with said embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the currently claimed invention. Therefore, the phrases “in one embodiment” or “in an embodiment” appearing in various places throughout this specification do not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, but may refer to the same embodiment. Furthermore, as used below, the terms “preferred,” “more preferably,” “even more preferably,” “most preferably,” and “particularly,” or similar terms, are used in conjunction with optional features without limiting the possibility of substitution. Therefore, the features introduced by these terms are optional features and are not intended to limit the scope of the claims in any way.

[0038] Furthermore, in one or more embodiments, specific features, structures, or characteristics may be combined in any suitable manner, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art based on this disclosure. Moreover, while some embodiments described herein include some features included in other embodiments but not others included in other embodiments, combinations of features from different embodiments are intended to be within the scope of the currently claimed invention and form different embodiments, as will be understood by those skilled in the art. For example, in the appended claims, any of the claimed embodiments may be used in any combination.

[0039] Furthermore, it should be noted that the terms "at least one," "one or more," or similar expressions indicating that a feature or element may exist once or more will typically be used only once when introducing the corresponding feature or element. In the following text, in most cases, the expressions "at least one" or "one or more" will not be repeated when referring to the corresponding feature or element, even though it is true that the corresponding feature or element may exist once or more.

[0040] As used herein, the term "hair" can be "living," meaning on a living body, or "non-living," meaning in wigs, hairpieces, or other aggregates of non-living keratin fibers. Mammal (preferably human) hair is preferred. However, wool, fur, and other keratin fibers (fibers containing keratin) are suitable substrates for the compositions of the currently claimed invention.

[0041] "Cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers" means a hair composition suitable for altering the wave and curl of hair, although not permanently. Unless otherwise stated, such a composition is referred to hereinafter as a "composition" or "composition of the currently claimed invention." The compositions of the currently claimed invention can be used to straighten, loosen, and / or smooth keratin fibers (preferably human hair). In contrast, the compositions of the currently claimed invention are not suitable as permanent shaping compositions, i.e., cosmetic compositions for the permanent deformation (i.e., wavy) of keratin fibers (preferably human hair).

[0042] "Substantially free of" means that the composition contains less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and more preferably 0% by weight of the compound relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages are by weight of the composition of the currently claimed invention, i.e., by weight of the ready-to-use composition to be applied to hair. Unless otherwise specifically stated, ratios are also by weight.

[0044] Cosmetic Composition

[0045] In a first aspect, the invention currently claimed relates to a cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent modification of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, the cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one α-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or hydrate; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl gluconate containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) a styrax; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0046] Alpha-keto acid

[0047] The composition contains at least one α-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or hydrate (component (a)).

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, at least one α-keto acid has the following formula (I):

[0049] R-CO-COOH

[0050] (I)

[0051] Where R represents hydrogen or a straight-chain or branched unsubstituted C1-C6 alkyl group.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, at least one α-keto acid is present in the composition in its free form, its hydrated form, or its salt form; more preferably, it is present in the composition in its free form or its hydrated form.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the salt of at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts; preferably, the salt of at least one α-keto acid is a sodium salt.

[0054] In a preferred embodiment, at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvate, and 2-butanone, optionally in the form of its hydrate or salt thereof; preferably, at least one α-keto acid is glyoxylic acid, optionally in the form of its hydrate.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, component (a) is present in an amount ranging from ≥3.0% to ≤25.0% by weight, more preferably from ≥5.0% to ≤22.0% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥10.0% to ≤19.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl gluceth ether

[0057] The composition comprises at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (component (b)).

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl glucetol polyoxyethylene ether-10-hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

[0059] Lauryl methyl glucitol polyoxyethylene ether-10-hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride is available from Lubrizol under the trade name Glucquat™ 125 wetting agent.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, component (b) is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤10% by weight, more preferably from ≥0.1% to ≤5% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥0.5% to ≤3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Diutan gum

[0062] The composition comprises eugenol (component (c)). Eugenol is an anionic polysaccharide. It is a thickener and / or rheology modifier added in an amount sufficient to provide the composition with a certain viscosity, so that it can be easily applied to hair without excessive dripping and causing mess.

[0063] In a preferred embodiment, the precipitate has a weight-average molecular weight in the range of ≥2.8 million Daltons to ≤5.2 million Daltons.

[0064] Kelco-Care™ is available from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol under the trade name Kelco-Care™. Kelco-Care™ is a water-soluble polysaccharide produced through microbial fermentation, particularly from *Sphingomonas*. Therefore, Kelco-Care™ is a *Sphingomonas* fermentation extract. It consists of six sugar units: d-glucose, d-glucuronic acid, d-glucose (with two l-rhamnose ions in the side chain), and l-rhamnose, forming a linear backbone with repeating side chains.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the precipitate is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤1% by weight, more preferably from ≥0.01 to ≤0.5% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥0.01 to ≤0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Fatty alcohols

[0067] The composition comprises at least one fatty alcohol (component (d)). “Fatty alcohol” means a non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched alcohol having 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0068] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol is selected from straight-chain and / or branched C-chain molecules. 14 To C 30 The group consisting of fatty alcohols; more preferably, free linear C. 14 To C 30 The fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols; even more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. In the most preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, component (d) is present in an amount ranging from ≥2.5% to ≤20% by weight, preferably from ≥3% to ≤15% by weight, and more preferably from ≥4% to ≤10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the fatty alcohol described above may be up to 100% by weight (or 100% by weight) of the total amount of at least one nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0070] Non-ionic surfactant

[0071] The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant (component (e)). “Nonionic surfactant” means any nonionic surfactant other than fatty alcohols.

[0072] In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: nonionic surfactants comprising one or more polyethylene oxide chains, including compounds such as: polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene fatty amides, and their monoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives, as well as polyethoxylated fatty amines. More preferably, at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C8. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; even more preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; even more preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; most preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; particularly selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-25 and stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20. Stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20 is especially preferred.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment, component (e) is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.2% to ≤5% by weight, more preferably from ≥0.5% to ≤4% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥1.0% to ≤2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the nonionic surfactant described above may account for up to 100% by weight (or 100% by weight) of the total amount of nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0074] Weight ratio fatty alcohol: non-ionic surfactant

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises component (d) and component (e) in a weight ratio ranging from ≥10.0:0.5 to ≤10.0:4.0, more preferably from ≥10.0:1.0 to ≤10.0:3.5, and even more preferably from ≥10.0:1.5 to ≤10.0:3.0.

[0076] Gel network system

[0077] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol and nonionic surfactant are partially or wholly contained in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, components (d) and (d) as described above, in a total amount ranging from ≥2.7% to ≤25% by weight, preferably from ≥3.5% to ≤19% by weight, and more preferably from ≤5.0% to ≥12.5% ​​by weight.

[0079] In a preferred embodiment, the formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of at least one fatty alcohol in water together with a surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts, causing the surfactant to dispense into the fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant carries water along with the at least one fatty alcohol. This transforms the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below its chain melting temperature, the liquid crystal phase transforms into a solid crystalline gel network. The gel network can be particularly helpful in reducing or even eliminating the odor of compounds containing thiol functional groups.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, component (d) comprising ≥50 to ≤100% by weight, more preferably ≥70 to ≤100% by weight, even more preferably ≥90 to ≤100% by weight, and most preferably 100% by weight, is contained within the gel network. In a preferred embodiment, component (e) comprising ≥50 to ≤100% by weight, more preferably ≥70 to ≤100% by weight, even more preferably ≥90 to ≤100% by weight, and most preferably 100% by weight, is contained within the gel network.

[0081] Cosmetically acceptable carrier

[0082] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier or solvent.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the solvent is an aqueous carrier; more preferably, an aqueous carrier is selected from the group consisting of water and water-soluble polyols; even more preferably, an aqueous carrier is selected from the group consisting of water and glycerol; most preferably, the aqueous carrier is water or alternatively, a mixture of water and glycerol.

[0084] Water-soluble polyols may have two or more hydroxyl groups in their molecules. Polyols can be selected from the group consisting of: diols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol or 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol; further, trimethylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, tetramethylene glycol, 2,3-butanediol, pentamethylene glycol. Glycol), 2-buten-1,4-diol, hexanediol, octanediol; triols, such as glycerol, trimethylolpropane, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, etc.; tetraols, such as pentaerythritol; pentaols, such as xylitol, etc.; hexaols, such as sorbitol, mannitol; polyol polymers, such as diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, polyglycerol; diol alkyl ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monohexyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-2-methylhexyl ether, ethylene glycol isopentyl ether, ethylene glycol benzyl ether, ethylene glycol isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, ethylene glycol diethyl ether, ethylene glycol dibutyl ether; diol alkyl ethers Such as diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol butyl ether; diol ether esters, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol diadipate, ethylene glycol disuccinate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monopropyl ether acetate and propylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble polyol is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol and glycerol.

[0085] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount of ≥55.0% by weight, more preferably ≥60.0% by weight, and even more preferably ≥65.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount ranging from ≥55.0% to ≤90.0% by weight, more preferably from ≥60.0% to ≤85.0% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥65.0% to ≤80.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] The composition may contain water as the sole cosmetically acceptable carrier. In this embodiment, the composition is substantially free of water-soluble polyols. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of ≥55.0% by weight, more preferably ≥60.0% by weight, and even more preferably ≥65.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount ranging from ≥55.0% to ≤90.0% by weight, preferably from ≥60.0% to ≤85.0% by weight, and more preferably from ≤65.0% to ≤80.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Alternatively, the composition may comprise water as the primary cosmetically acceptable carrier and at least one water-soluble polyol as a secondary cosmetically acceptable carrier. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of ≥50.0% by weight, preferably ≥55.0% by weight, more preferably ≥60.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the remaining amount of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consists of a water-soluble polyol. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount ranging from ≥50.0% to ≤85.0% by weight, preferably from ≥55.0% to ≤80.0% by weight, more preferably from ≥60.0% to ≤75.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the remaining amount of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consists of a water-soluble polyol.

[0088] Further surfactants

[0089] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one surfactant other than a nonionic surfactant (albeit in a low amount, for example, in an amount ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤5.0% by weight). Suitable surfactants typically have a lipophilic chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and may be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and cationic surfactants.

[0090] However, in alternative preferred embodiments, the composition is substantially free of other surfactants besides ionic surfactants. The composition may be substantially free of anionic surfactants. The composition may be substantially free of amphoteric surfactants. The composition may be substantially free of cationic surfactants.

[0091] Further thickening and / or rheology modifying agents (substantially free)

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers, except for the precipitant.

[0093] For example, additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers may be selected from the group consisting of: xanthan gum, tara gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, N-vinylpyrrolidone, acrylate / cetyl polyoxyethylene ether-20 itaconic acid copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, polyethoxylated carbamates or polycarbamoyl polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-150 / decyl / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl / SMDI copolymer, etc. Trihydroxystearin, acrylate copolymers or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (such as acrylate / stearyl polyoxyethylene ether-20 methacrylate copolymer), acrylate / stearyl polyoxyethylene ether-20 methacrylate crosspolymers, acrylate / vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymers, acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylate / Clü-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, and nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one aliphatic chain and at least one hydrophilic unit selected from polyether urethanes comprising at least one aliphatic chain; particularly xanthan gum.

[0094] Cationic polymers (substantially free)

[0095] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of cationic polymers, except for the quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucosyl ether.

[0096] Reducing agents (substantially free)

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of reducing agents, particularly those containing thiol functional groups. Reducing agents are compounds suitable for reducing disulfide bonds in hair. Reducing agents are commonly found in cosmetic compositions used for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers. For example, reducing agents may be selected from the group consisting of cysteine, cysteine, thioglycolic acid, and their salts.

[0098] Alkalising agents (substantially free)

[0099] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of alkalizing agents other than pH adjusters. Alkalizing agents are commonly found in cosmetic compositions used for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers. For example, alkalizing agents may be selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine.

[0100] Colouring agents (substantially free)

[0101] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of colorants. Colorants may be selected from the group consisting of direct dyes, pigments, and oxidative dye precursors (including bases and couplers).

[0102] Liquid oils

[0103] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one liquid oil.

[0104] For example, liquid oils can be selected from the group consisting of: avocado oil, tsubaki oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, parsic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, flaxseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, camellia seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerides, tricaprylic glycerol, triisopalmitoyl glycerol, liquid lanolin, hexyl laurate, liquid hydrocarbon esters such as fluid paraffin, mineral oil, isododecane, fatty acid oils, squalene, ester oils such as cetyl caprylate and isopropyl myristate.

[0105] If present, at least one liquid oil is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of liquid oil. The absence of liquid oil may help to avoid the generation of significant amounts of smoke when heating hair (e.g., by using a flat iron).

[0106] Solid fats and waxes

[0107] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one solid fat and a wax.

[0108] For example, solid fats and waxes can be selected from the group consisting of: cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hardened coconut fat, palm oil, beef tallow, sheep fat, hardened beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, ox bone fat, wood kernel oil, hardened castor oil; lanolin, kapok wax Waxes include: lanolin acetate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether; hydrocarbons, non-volatile hydrocarbons, and solid hydrocarbon esters, such as solid paraffin, petrolatum, ozocerite, pristan, ceresin, petrolatum, and microcrystalline wax; phospholipids such as lecithin or ceramides, beeswax, apple wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, myrica wax, insect wax, whale wax, lignite wax, rice bran wax, kapok wax, cane wax, jojoba wax, and shellac wax. Waxes are not fatty alcohols.

[0109] If present, at least one solid fat and wax are present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of solid fats and waxes. The absence of solid fats and waxes may help to avoid the generation of significant amounts of smoke when heating hair (e.g., by using a flat iron).

[0110] Silicones

[0111] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one organosilicon. The organosilicon may be volatile or non-volatile, and may be soluble or insoluble. "Soluble" means that the organosilicon is miscible with the aqueous carrier of the composition, thereby forming part of the same phase. "Insoluble" means that the organosilicon forms a discontinuous phase separate from the aqueous carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or suspension of organosilicon droplets.

[0112] For example, soluble organosilicones can be selected from the group consisting of: organosilicon copolyols, such as dimethicone copolyols, such as polyether siloxane-modified polymers, such as polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide-modified polydimethylsiloxane, wherein the levels of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide are sufficient to allow solubility in the composition. Insoluble organosilicones have a viscosity at 25°C of 1,000 to 2,000,000 mPa·s, preferably 10,000 to 1,800,000 mPa·s, more preferably 100,000 to 1,500,000 mPa·s. Viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer, as described in Dow Corning Gorparate Test Method CTM0004 (July 20, 1970). Specifically, the insoluble organosilicon can be selected from the group consisting of: polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, dimethyl polysiloxanes containing terminal hydroxyl groups, methylphenyl polysiloxanes containing terminal hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof, low molecular weight oligomeric polydimethylsiloxanes or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and particularly preferred organosilicon conditioning polymers are CTFA: polydimethylsiloxane, amodimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane diaminohydroxypropyl copolyol, diaminoPEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethylPG-propyl polydimethylsiloxane, and dihydroxy polydimethylsiloxane (CTFA: dimethiconol). Volatile organosilicones, such as, for example, CTFA: polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane copolyol, and cyclodimethylsiloxane, are also preferred.

[0113] If present, at least one organosilicon is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤6.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of organosilicon.

[0114] Swelling agents

[0115] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one swelling agent. So-called swelling agents and penetrating substances can be added to the hair-forming composition; examples include urea, melamine, ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-pyrrolidone, imidazoline-2-one, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone; alkali metal thiocyanates or ammonium thiocyanate, polyols, and isopropanol; preferably, the swelling agent and penetrating substance are urea.

[0116] If present, the swelling agent is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of the swelling agent.

[0117] Additives

[0118] The composition may also contain commonly used and known additives.

[0119] For example, suitable additives include: alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, and isopropanol; sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, maltitol, maltotriose, mannitol, sucrase, erythritol, glucose, fructose, starch sugar, maltose, xylytose, and starch sugar reducing alcohols; preservatives, such as benzyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, and imidazolidinyl urea; antioxidants, such as tocopherol; chelating agents, such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid, and their salts; salts, such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, and ammonium sulfate; salts, Such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, and ammonium sulfate; pearlescent additives, such as glycol distearate and mica; UV filters and sunscreens, such as isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, lipophilic cinnamate, salicylates, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, or hydrophilic sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone or 3-benzyl camphor; pH adjusters, such as citric acid, formic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, pyruvic acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate; sunblocking agents, such as kaolin and titanium dioxide; solubilizers; aromatic oils; dyes; and amino acids and / or hydrolyzed proteins.

[0120] If present, alcohols are present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; each of sugar alcohols, salts, pearlescent auxiliaries, and UV filters and sunscreens are present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤5.0% by weight; each of antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, opacifiers, preservatives, aromatic oils, solubilizers, amino acids and hydrolyzed proteins and / or dyes are present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01% to ≤1.0% by weight.

[0121] pH

[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition is below 4.0, more preferably in the range of ≥1.0 to ≤3.5, and even more preferably in the range of ≥1.5 to ≤3.0.

[0123] The pH of the composition can be adjusted using pH adjusters (including acidifiers and / or alkalizers). Alkalizers can be selected from the group consisting of inorganic alkalis, organic alkalis, and hydride alkalis. For example, suitable inorganic alkalis can be selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; preferably, the inorganic alkali is sodium hydroxide.

[0124] Viscosity

[0125] In a preferred embodiment, the viscosity of the composition at 25°C is in the range of ≥100 to ≤2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of ≥200 to ≤1,500 mPa·s, and more preferably in the range of ≥500 to ≤1,000 mPa·s.

[0126] In a preferred embodiment, viscosity is determined as follows: Viscosity measurements are performed on a controlled stress rheometer or equivalent instrument of the AR500, AR1000, or AR2000 model manufactured by TA Instruments. A 6 cm planar acrylic cross-hatched parallel plate geometry (TA Project 518600.901) and a stainless steel cross-hatched substrate (TA Project 570011.001) are used. The rheometer is prepared for flow measurement according to standard manufacturer procedures. The gap between the parallel plate geometry is set to 1,000 micrometers. The flow program is programmed into the rheometer under the following conditions: a continuous stress ramp of 0.1–300 Pa over 2 minutes at 25°C, including 250 measurement points in linear mode. The product is loaded into the geometry according to standard procedures. The shear stress versus shear rate curve is obtained in 10 seconds. -1 The shear stress value at the shear rate is obtained, and the corresponding viscosity is calculated by dividing the obtained shear stress by 10.

[0127] Form of application

[0128] In one embodiment, the composition is a leave-in composition. "Leave-in" means a composition that is not rinsed off after application to hair, particularly before flat-iron styling. In an alternative embodiment, the composition is a rinse-out composition. "Rinse-out" means a composition that is rinsed off after application to hair, particularly before flat-iron styling. Preferably, the composition is a rinse-out composition.

[0129] The inventors have demonstrated that, after application, the composition generates minimal smoke when the hair is heated (e.g., using a flat iron). This is advantageous, particularly compared to conventional cosmetic compositions used for semi-permanent hair shaping. In fact, conventional cosmetic compositions can generate a significant amount of smoke when the hair is heated (e.g., using a flat iron). This is inconvenient for hairdressers and / or users as it can irritate the eyes and mucous membranes and produce an unwanted / unpleasant odor. This is especially inconvenient in hair salons, regardless of whether several hairdressers can work simultaneously.

[0130] Methods for semi-permanent hair deformation

[0131] In a second aspect, the currently claimed invention relates to a method for semi-permanent deformation of hair. The method includes the following steps:

[0132] (A) Provides the cosmetic composition as described above;

[0133] (B) Applying the cosmetic composition to hair;

[0134] (C) Use a heating device to apply heat to the hair.

[0135] The composition can be applied to dry hair. The composition can remain on the hair at room temperature, preferably in the range of ≥18 to ≤35°C. The contact time between the composition and the hair is preferably in the range of ≥10 to ≤60 min, more preferably in the range of ≥20 to ≤40 min.

[0136] Applying heat to hair (i.e., heat treatment) preferably consists of heating the hair to a temperature in the range of ≥150 to ≤250°C, preferably in the range of ≥170 to ≤230°C, and more preferably in the range of ≥185 to ≤220°C.

[0137] When heat is applied, the heating device passes over the hair at least once, preferably 5 to 15 times, more preferably 8 to 10 times. The heating device is preferably selected from known heating devices; more preferably, the heating device is a heated hair perm, which is preferably selected from a group consisting of a free flat straightener and a curling iron. The heated hair perm typically includes heated clamps, which are usually metal heated clamps.

[0138] Before applying the composition of the currently claimed invention, the hair may be washed, for example, using a shampoo composition and rinsing with water. After rinsing and before applying the composition of the currently claimed invention, the hair may be dried, for example, using a hair dryer.

[0139] The pretreatment composition may be applied to the hair before applying the composition of the currently claimed invention.

[0140] After applying heat, a post-treatment composition can be applied to the hair. The post-treatment composition can be, for example, a conditioning composition.

[0141] use

[0142] In a third aspect, the invention currently claimed relates to the use of the above-described composition for the semi-permanent deformation of hair.

[0143] advantage

[0144] The invention currently claimed offers one or more of the following advantages:

[0145] - The composition provides excellent semi-permanent molding properties;

[0146] - The composition provides hair manageability and hair conditioning;

[0147] - The composition does not give any unpleasant stinging or itching sensation;

[0148] - The composition does not damage hair;

[0149] - The composition generates minimal amount of smoke upon application;

[0150] - The composition provides satisfactory consistency, rinseability, combability after washing (before flat perming), combability with the product, hair texture before flat perming, hair texture after blow-drying, and / or use with a straightener.

[0151] - The composition is easy to manufacture because it contains very few components; and

[0152] - The composition does not deposit on the hair.

[0153] Embodiment

[0154] Illustrative embodiments of the invention currently claimed are listed below, but are not limiting of the invention currently claimed. In particular, the invention currently claimed also covers those embodiments resulting from dependent references and therefore combinations specified below. More specifically, in the case of the naming of a series of embodiments below, for example, the expression "method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4" should be understood to make any combination of embodiments within that scope clearly disclosed to a person skilled in the art, meaning that such expression should be considered synonymous with "method according to any one of embodiments 1, 2, 3, and 4":

[0155] Implementation Scheme 1 - A cosmetic composition for semi-permanent modification of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, said cosmetic composition comprising:

[0156] (a) at least one α-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or hydrate;

[0157] (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxygen;

[0158] (c) Precipitating adhesive;

[0159] (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and

[0160] (e) At least one nonionic surfactant, which is different from component (d).

[0161] Implementation Scheme 2 - The composition according to Implementation Scheme 1, wherein at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvate and 2-butanone; preferably, the α-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

[0162] Implementation Scheme 3 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component a) is present in an amount in the range of ≥3.0 to ≤25.0% by weight, preferably in the range of ≥5.0 to ≤22.0% by weight, and more preferably in the range of ≥10.0 to ≤19.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Implementation Scheme 4 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl glucetol polyoxyethylene ether-10-hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

[0164] Implementation Scheme 5 - A composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component b) is present in an amount in the range of ≥0.1 to ≤10.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of ≥0.1 to ≤5% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of ≥0.5 to ≤3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] Implementation Scheme 6 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the weight-average molecular weight of the optimal adhesive determined by the method of this specification is in the range of ≥2.8 million Daltons to ≤5.2 million Daltons.

[0166] Implementation Scheme 7 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component c) is present in an amount in the range of ≥0.01 to ≤1.0% by weight, preferably in the range of ≥0.01 to ≤0.5% by weight, and more preferably in the range of ≥0.01 to ≤0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Embodiment 8 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of straight-chain or branched C14 to C30 fatty alcohols; more preferably selected from straight-chain C14 to C30 fatty alcohols. 14 To C 30 The group consisting of fatty alcohols; even more preferably the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0168] Embodiment 9 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component d) is present in an amount in the range of ≥2.5 to ≤20.0% by weight, preferably in the range of ≥3 to ≤15% by weight, and more preferably in the range of ≥4 to ≤10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Embodiment 10 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from polyethylene oxide C8 to C6. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having at least 2 or at least 5 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; more preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C4 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units. 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; more preferably the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-25 and stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20.

[0170] Implementation Scheme 11 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein component e) is present in an amount in the range of ≥0.2 to ≤5.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of ≥0.5 to ≤4% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of ≥1.0 to ≤2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Implementation Scheme 12 - The composition according to any one of the foregoing embodiments, wherein:

[0172] (a) Relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one α-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from ≥3.0 to ≤25.0% by weight, preferably from ≥5.0% to ≤22.0% by weight, and more preferably from ≥10.0 to ≤19.0% by weight;

[0173] (b) Relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1% to ≤10.0% by weight, more preferably from ≥0.1% to ≤5.0% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥0.5% to ≤3% by weight;

[0174] (c) The precipitate is present in an amount in the range of ≥0.01 to ≤1.0% by weight, preferably in the range of ≥0.01 to ≤0.5% by weight, and more preferably in the range of ≥0.01 to ≤0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0175] (d) Relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from ≥2.5% to ≤20.0% by weight, preferably from ≥3.0% to ≤15.0% by weight, and more preferably from ≥4.0% to ≤10.0% by weight; and

[0176] (e) Relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.2% to ≤5.0% by weight, more preferably from ≥0.5% to ≤4.0% by weight, and even more preferably from ≥1.0% to ≤2.5% by weight.

[0177] Embodiment 13 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the pH of the composition is below 4.0, preferably in the range of ≥1 to ≤3.5, more preferably in the range of ≥1.5 to ≤3.0.

[0178] Implementation Scheme 14 - A composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0179] Embodiment 15 - The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the viscosity of the composition determined by the method of this specification at 25°C is in the range of ≥100 to ≤2,000 mPa.s, preferably in the range of ≥200 to ≤1,500 mPa.s, and more preferably in the range of ≥500 to ≤1,000 mPa.s.

[0180] Implementation Scheme 16 - A composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the composition comprises component (d) and component (e) in a weight ratio in the range of ≥10.0:0.5 to ≤10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.0 to ≤10.0:3.5, and even more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.5 to ≤10.0:3.0.

[0181] Embodiment 17 - A composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein components (d) and (e) are partially or wholly contained in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

[0182] Implementation Scheme 18 - A composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the composition is a rinse-free composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0183] Implementation Scheme 19 - A method for semi-permanent hair modification, the method comprising at least the following steps:

[0184] (A) Provide a cosmetic composition according to any one of the foregoing embodiments;

[0185] (B) Applying a cosmetic composition to hair; and

[0186] (C) Use a heating device to apply heat to the hair.

[0187] Implementation Scheme 20 - The method according to Implementation Scheme 19, wherein in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of ≥150 to ≤250°C, preferably in the range of ≥170 to ≤230°C, and more preferably in the range of ≥185 to ≤220°C.

[0188] Implementation Scheme 21 - The method according to Implementation Scheme 19 or 20, wherein in step (C), the heating device is a hair perm heater.

[0189] Implementation Scheme 22 - The method according to Implementation Scheme 21, wherein the heated hair perming device is selected from the group consisting of a flat hair straightener or a curling iron.

[0190] Implementation Scheme 23 - Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Implementation Schemes 1 to 18 for the semi-permanent modification of hair.

[0191] Although the invention currently claimed has been described with respect to its specific embodiments, certain modifications and equivalents will be apparent to those skilled in the art and are intended to be included within the scope of the invention currently claimed.

[0192] Example

[0193] The invention currently claimed is described in detail through the following non-limiting working examples. More specifically, the test methods specified below are part of the general disclosure of this application and are not limited to the specific working examples.

[0194] Material

[0195] Glyoxylic acid: Glyoxo HighPure 50 from Weylchem

[0196] Lauryl methyl glucetol polyoxyethylene ether-10-hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride: Glucquat™ 125 wetting agent from Lubrizol

[0197] Precision adhesive: Kelco-Care™ precision adhesive from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol

[0198] Cetearyl alcohol

[0199] Stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20

[0200] water

[0201] glycerin

[0202] Sodium hydroxide

[0203] Preparation of cosmetic compositions

[0204] The formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of fatty alcohol in water together with a nonionic surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts, causing the surfactant to partition into the fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant carries water along with the fatty alcohol. This transforms the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the chain melting temperature, the liquid crystal phase transforms into a solid crystalline gel network. Other materials are then added to the resulting mixture.

[0205] formula

[0206] Table 1

[0207]

[0208] Methods for semi-permanent hair deformation

[0209] The semi-permanent molding method includes the following steps:

[0210] (A) Washing hair with a shampoo composition;

[0211] (B) Comb or brush the hair;

[0212] (C) Dry the hair with a towel;

[0213] (D) Blow-dry the hair, for example, within a 1-minute timeframe;

[0214] (E) Comb or brush the hair;

[0215] (F) Applying a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation to hair;

[0216] (G) Comb or brush the hair;

[0217] (H) Retain the composition for a sufficient period of time for hair deformation, for example, about 20 minutes;

[0218] (I) Rinse the hair to completely remove the composition;

[0219] (J) Dry the hair; and

[0220] (K) Divide the hair into thin strands and pull the flat iron through the strands (from root to tip, 6 to 8 times).

[0221] Example 1: Half-head test

[0222] Using a half-head test, hair damage caused by the composition of the currently claimed invention (this invention) was tested on five different models using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0223] Formulation tested

[0224] The composition (of the present invention) has the following formulation: 15.0 wt% glyoxylic acid, 6.75 wt% cetearyl alcohol, 4.96 wt% glycerol, 2.0 wt% lauryl methyl glucetol polyoxyethylene ether-10-hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.48 wt% stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20, 3.0 wt% sodium hydroxide, 0.15 wt% gluten, and water (qs100 wt%).

[0225] Untreated hair was used as a control.

[0226] Preparation of samples

[0227] Approximately 10 single hair fibers / samples were glued to an alumina short column using conductive double adhesive tape.

[0228] SEM protocol

[0229] Use the following conditions to perform SEM checks:

[0230] - Instrument: Zeiss Ultra 55 from Mantis

[0231] - Mode: HV

[0232] - Accelerating voltage: 0 / 8 kV

[0233] - Working distance: 7 mm

[0234] - Tilt: 0°

[0235] - Detection: SE2

[0236] - Coating: Uncoated

[0237] - Document: *.TIF

[0238] Results

[0239] Untreated samples (controls) ranged from almost no damage to minor damage (see Appendix) Figure 1 a / b is used as an example).

[0240] Compared to untreated samples, none of the five samples tested with the composition (of this invention) showed any identifiable damage, corresponding to 100% success. See Appendix. Figure 2a / b, used to illustrate an undamaged sample treated with the composition (of the present invention).

[0241] Based on the entire contents of this document, variations and modifications of the invention and its further embodiments, in addition to those described herein, will become apparent to those skilled in the art. The subject matter herein contains information, examples, and guidance that can be adapted to the practice of the invention in the form of various embodiments and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments, and equivalents.

[0242] Example 2: Comparative Test

[0243] The performance of the composition of the currently claimed invention (composition A) is compared with the performance of three comparative compositions (comparatives), which are free from eugenol (composition 1), free from quaternary ammonium salts of ethoxylated methyl gluconate containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (composition 2), or free from both compounds (composition 3).

[0244] Formulation tested

[0245] The tested composition has the following formulation:

[0246] Table 2

[0247]

[0248] Protocol

[0249] The hairstylist applies the composition to the hair of a human model and evaluates and compares its performance based on different properties, benefits and / or advantages.

[0250] Using the following rating scale, hairstylists evaluate the performance of each composition for its various characteristics, benefits, or advantages:

[0251] Table 3

[0252]

[0253] Results

[0254] The hairstylist evaluation results are compiled in the table below:

[0255] Table 4

[0256]

[0257] The results reported in Table 4 demonstrate that, depending on the features, benefits, or advantages considered, the compositions of the currently claimed invention provide equivalent or improved performance beyond expectations.

[0258] Based on the entire contents of this document, variations and modifications of the invention and its further embodiments, in addition to those described herein, will become apparent to those skilled in the art. The subject matter herein contains information, examples, and guidance that can be adapted to the practice of the invention in the form of various embodiments and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments, and equivalents.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl gluceth ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) diutan gum; (d) at least one fatty alcohol, which is non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having 14 to 30 carbon atoms; and (e) at least one non-ionic surfactant, which is different from component (d).

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid; preferably, the alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl gluceth ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is laurylmethyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear C 14 to C 30 fatty alcohols; preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 alkyl ethers; preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 alkyl ethers having at least 2 ethyleneoxy units or at least 5 ethyleneoxy units; more preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 alkyl ethers having 10 to 50 ethyleneoxy units; preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 alkyl ethers having 15 to 30 ethyleneoxy units; more preferably selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: (a) the at least one alpha-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from > 3.0 to < 25.0 wt.%, preferably in an amount ranging from > 5.0 wt.% to < 22.0 wt.%, more preferably in an amount ranging from > 10.0 to < 19.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl gluceth ether is present in an amount ranging from > 0.1 to < 10.0 wt.%, more preferably in an amount ranging from > 0.1 to < 5.0 wt.%, even more preferably in an amount ranging from > 0.5 to < 3.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from > 0.01 to < 1.0 wt.%, preferably in an amount ranging from > 0.01 to < 0.5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount ranging from > 0.01 to < 0.3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from > 2.5 to < 20.0 wt.%, preferably in an amount ranging from > 3.0 to < 15.0 wt.%, more preferably in an amount ranging from > 4.0 to < 10.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or (e) the at least one non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from > 0.2 to < 5.0 wt.%, more preferably in an amount ranging from > 0.5 to < 4.0 wt.%, even more preferably in an amount ranging from > 1.0 to < 2.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH of the composition is 4.0 or below, preferably in the range of > 1 to < 3.5, more preferably in the range of > 1.5 to < 3.

0.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the viscosity of the composition at 25 °C determined according to the method of the present specification is in the range of > 100 to < 2,000 mPa.s, preferably in the range of > 200 to < 1,500 mPa.s, more preferably in the range of > 500 to < 1,000 mPa.s.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises components (d) and (e) in a weight ratio in the range of > 10.0:0.5 to < 10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of > 10.0:1.0 to < 10.0:3.5, even more preferably in the range of > 10.0:1.5 to < 10.0:3.

0.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein components (d) and (e) are partially or entirely comprised in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

12. A method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, the method comprising at least the following steps: (A) providing a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims; (B) applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; and (C) applying heat to the hair using a heating device.

13. The method according to claim 12, wherein in step (C) the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of > 150 to < 250 °C, preferably in the range of > 170 to < 230 °C, more preferably in the range of > 185 to < 220 °C.

14. The method according to claim 12 or 13, wherein in step (C) the heating device is a heated hair iron; preferably the heated hair iron is selected from the group consisting of a flat straightening iron or a curling iron.

15. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for semi-permanent deformation of hair.

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