Dyeing and finishing method for home textile wide fabric ecological linen fabric

Abstract

The invention provides a dyeing and finishing method for a home textile wide fabric ecological linen fabric. The method comprises the steps of singeing, enzyme desizing, cleaning, bio-enzyme degumming, high-temperature inactivation, scouring and bleaching one-bath re-scouring and bleaching, cleaning, dyeing, drying, chemical soft finishing, physical soft finishing, mechanical preshrinking and the like on the linen fabric. According to the invention, the linen fabric is smoother in surface, softer in hand feeling and more stable in internal structure and size, so that the dyeing uniformity and the after-finishing effect are improved, the scratchiness feeling during wearing is weakened, the skin friendliness, the scratchiness resistance, the comfort and the size stability of home textile linen fabric products are improved, and the quality is improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile printing and dyeing technology, specifically to a dyeing and finishing method for wide-width eco-friendly linen fabrics used in home textiles. Background Technology

[0002] The following problems exist with existing hemp fiber (flax, ramie, hemp, etc.) home textile fabrics: 1. Itching and rough feel: Traditional processes are unable to completely remove the fine hairs and rigid structure on the surface of hemp fibers, resulting in a noticeable "scratching" and "itching" sensation when the finished product comes into contact with the skin, seriously affecting comfort; 2. Environmental pollution and high energy consumption: Traditional hemp degumming and dyeing methods rely on high temperature, high concentration of strong alkali, and a large amount of chemical auxiliaries, resulting in high COD wastewater discharge, high water consumption, and high energy consumption; 3. Unstable dyeing quality: Hemp fibers have high crystallinity, and traditional dyeing methods are prone to problems such as streaks, color differences, and poor fastness to dark colors. Summary of the Invention

[0003] This invention provides a dyeing and finishing method for wide-width eco-friendly hemp fabrics used in home textiles, in order to solve the problems of itchiness, rough and stiff hand feel, and unstable dyeing quality of existing hemp fiber home textile fabrics, as well as the problems of high energy consumption and environmental pollution caused by existing hemp fiber home textile fabric production processes.

[0004] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution: A dyeing and finishing method for wide-width eco-friendly linen fabrics used in home textiles includes the following steps: S1, singeing the linen fabric to remove fuzz and burrs from the fabric surface; S2 uses an enzyme desizing agent to remove sizing and dust from the fabric surface; S3, Cleaning the desized fabric; S4 involves immersing the fabric in a degumming solution to react and remove ash, pectin, lignin, and wax from the fibers. It also acts as an enzyme polish for the hemp fibers. After degumming, the fabric is subjected to high-temperature inactivation and washing. S5 uses a one-bath boiling and bleaching method, using hydrogen peroxide as a bleaching agent to re-boil and bleach the fabric. S6, Washing bleached fabrics; S7, using reactive dyes to dye the fabric; S8, drying the dyed fabric; S9, the fabric is subjected to chemical softening treatment and physical softening treatment in sequence; S10, mechanical pre-shrinking treatment of the fabric.

[0005] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has achieved the following beneficial effects: This invention establishes a complete ecological dyeing and finishing technology system with dual softening and anti-itch properties. Specifically: The process path is innovative, employing "bio-enzymatic degumming" instead of traditional chemical degumming. It utilizes the synergistic effect of pectinase, cellulase, and ligninase to directionally remove impurities without damaging the fiber body. The anti-itch softening mechanism employs a four-pronged approach: singeing (removing physical burrs), enzymatic hydrolysis (etching surface softening), chemical softening (cationic silicone oil film formation), and physical softening (airflow mechanical loosening) to fundamentally eliminate the source of itching. The equipment and process are coordinated, utilizing a dyeing machine for pretreatment to achieve low liquor ratio and energy saving. Combined with low-temperature dyeing and mechanical pre-shrinking, this achieves high-quality ecological processing of wide-width home textile fabrics. Attached Figure Description

[0006] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention, the accompanying drawings used in the description of the embodiments will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the accompanying drawings described below are only some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other solutions can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0007] Figure 1 This is a flowchart illustrating a dyeing and finishing method for wide-width eco-friendly linen fabrics used in home textiles, provided by an embodiment of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0008] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are only for illustration and explanation of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0009] Any specific numerical values ​​disclosed herein (including the endpoints of numerical ranges) are not limited to their exact values, but should be understood to also include values ​​close to the exact value, such as all possible values ​​within ±5% of the exact value. Furthermore, with respect to the disclosed numerical ranges, one or more new numerical ranges can be obtained by arbitrarily combining the endpoint values ​​of the range, the endpoint values ​​with specific point values ​​within the range, and the specific point values ​​themselves; these new numerical ranges should also be considered as specifically disclosed herein.

[0010] The terminology used in this invention is for the purpose of describing specific exemplary embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting. Unless the context clearly indicates otherwise, the singular forms “a,” “an,” and “the” as used herein are intended to include the plural forms as well. The terms “comprising,” “including,” “containing,” and “having” are inclusive and thus describe the presence of said features, elements, compositions, steps, integers, operations, and / or components, but do not exclude the presence or inclusion of one or more other features, integers, steps, operations, elements, components, and / or sets thereof. Although the open-ended term “comprising” should be understood as a non-limiting term used to describe and claim the various embodiments described in this invention, in some aspects it may instead be understood as a more restrictive and limiting term, such as “consisting of” or “essentially composed of.” Thus, for any given embodiment describing a composition, material, component, element, feature, integer, operation, and / or process step, the invention also particularly includes embodiments consisting of or substantially consisting of such compositions, materials, components, elements, features, integers, operations, and / or process steps. In the case of “consisting of…”, the alternative embodiments exclude any additional compositions, materials, components, elements, features, integers, operations and / or process steps. In the case of “essentially composed of…”, any additional compositions, materials, components, elements, features, integers, operations and / or process steps that substantially affect the essential and novel characteristics are excluded from such embodiments. However, any compositions, materials, components, elements, features, integers, operations and / or process steps that do not substantially affect the essential and novel characteristics may be included in the embodiments.

[0011] Any method steps, processes, and operations described in this invention should not be construed as necessarily requiring them to be performed in the specific order discussed or shown, unless explicitly specified. It should also be understood that, unless otherwise stated, additional or alternative steps may be used.

[0012] In this invention, except where expressly stated, any matters or issues not mentioned are directly applicable to those known in the art without any modification. Furthermore, any embodiment described in this invention can be freely combined with one or more other embodiments described in this invention, and the resulting technical solutions or concepts are considered part of the original disclosure or original record of this invention, and should not be regarded as new content not disclosed or anticipated by this invention, unless those skilled in the art consider the combination to be clearly unreasonable.

[0013] Unless otherwise stated, the terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art, and if a term is defined herein and its definition differs from the common understanding in the art, the definition herein shall prevail.

[0014] In this document, “width” refers to a fabric or material with a width of ≥95 inches, particularly linen fabric or linen material; in some embodiments of the present invention, “width” refers to a fabric or material with a width of 95 to 114 inches.

[0015] See Figure 1 This invention provides a dyeing and finishing method for wide-width eco-friendly linen fabrics used in home textiles, comprising the following steps: S1, singeing the linen fabric to remove fuzz and burrs from the fabric surface; S2, using an enzymatic desizing agent to remove sizing and dust from the fabric surface; S3, washing the desizing fabric; S4, immersing the fabric in a degumming solution to react and remove ash, pectin, lignin, and wax from the fibers, while simultaneously performing an enzymatic polishing effect on the linen fibers; after degumming, high-temperature inactivation and washing; S5, using a one-bath boiling and bleaching method, employing hydrogen peroxide as a bleaching agent to perform a second boiling and bleaching treatment on the fabric; S6, washing the bleached fabric; S7, dyeing the fabric with reactive dyes; S8, drying the dyed fabric; S9, sequentially performing chemical softening and physical softening finishing on the fabric; S10, performing mechanical pre-shrinking treatment on the fabric.

[0016] This invention provides a complete eco-friendly hemp dyeing and finishing system. Through the synergistic effect of singeing, bio-enzymatic degumming, and dual softening finishing, it effectively removes fuzz and rigid impurities (pectin, lignin) from the surface of hemp fibers, fundamentally solving the problems of "strong itching" and "rough and stiff feel" in traditional hemp fabrics. Simultaneously, the use of bio-enzymes instead of high-temperature strong alkali degumming, along with the environmentally friendly and efficient biodegradable enzymes, combined with a one-bath boiling and bleaching method, shortens the process flow and significantly reduces energy consumption and wastewater discharge. The final mechanical pre-shrinking treatment ensures the dimensional stability of wide-width fabrics, achieving a balance between green environmental protection and high-quality output.

[0017] In some embodiments of the present invention, the process parameters for singeing in step S1 are: flame temperature 1000–1200°C, fabric speed 60–90 m / min, flame-to-fabric distance 1–3 mm, and singeing method of two times on the front and two times on the back. By using these specific temperature, speed, and distance parameters, long fibers and fine burrs on the fabric surface can be burned off to the maximum extent without damaging the strength of the hemp fibers. The two-on-two-on-the-front and two-on-the-back singeing method ensures thorough processing, significantly reduces the physical roughness of the fabric surface, and lays the foundation for subsequent elimination of itching.

[0018] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S2: desizing is performed in a dyeing machine at a temperature of 60°C for 5 cycles; the amount of the enzyme desizing agent is 10 g / L, used in conjunction with 3 g / L of penetrant and 3 g / L of dispersing and complexing agent; the enzyme desizing agent is a biological composite desizing enzyme. Using the enzyme desizing agent in conjunction with the penetrant in the dyeing machine for gentle desizing can efficiently remove sizing and dust from the fabric surface. The addition of the dispersing and complexing agent effectively prevents back-staining by impurities, ensuring fabric cleanliness, thereby allowing the subsequent degumming enzyme to fully contact the fibers and improve degumming efficiency; the selection of a specific biological desizing enzyme further ensures the environmental friendliness and high efficiency of desizing.

[0019] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S2, the biological composite desizing enzyme or enzyme desizing agent used is NATFOCEOL-105XBIO desizing enzyme provided by Jiangsu Xinruibei Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the penetrant is preferably penetrant DX-6100A provided by Qingdao Fukai Rubber & Plastic New Materials Co., Ltd.

[0020] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S4, the degumming solution is a mixture of compound pectinase, cellulase, and ligninase, with an enzyme activity ratio of 3:1:1. This specific enzyme activity ratio can effectively synergistically target the complex structure of hemp fibers: pectinase and ligninase effectively remove impurities from the intercellular layer, improving fiber whiteness and hygroscopicity; while cellulase slightly etches the fiber surface, reducing fiber crystallinity and rigidity, thereby significantly improving the hand feel while removing impurities.

[0021] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S4, the degumming process conditions are a temperature of 50°C, a pH value of 4.5–6.0, and eight runs. These process conditions (temperature and pH value) represent the optimal activity range of the aforementioned composite bio-enzyme, ensuring the efficient execution of the enzyme-catalyzed reaction, achieving an ideal level of gum removal, and simultaneously avoiding damage to the fibers caused by extreme conditions.

[0022] In some embodiments of the present invention, acetic acid is used to adjust the pH of the degumming solution to 4.5–6.0, and degumming is carried out under this pH condition for 8–10 cycles. In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S4, the high-temperature inactivation condition is a temperature of 98°C. + 2℃, 3 runs. The high-temperature inactivation step can quickly denature and inactivate the enzyme protein, immediately stopping the catalytic effect and effectively preventing the fiber strength reduction caused by over-reaction; the subsequent multiple water washes thoroughly remove the decomposed gum and residues, ensuring the cleanliness of the semi-finished product.

[0023] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S4, a highly active cellulase with an enzyme activity >32,660 NCAU / g is used for degumming. Selecting a specific enzyme preparation with an enzyme activity >32,660 NCAU / g can further enhance the rate and thoroughness of the degumming reaction, ensuring excellent impurity removal, fiber softening, and polishing effects within a shorter process time. In some embodiments of the present invention, a versatile cellulase 11L is used for degumming and polishing. This is a unique cellulase produced by natural fermentation of genetically modified microorganisms and is biodegradable. The aforementioned versatile cellulase 11L is purchased from Genentech through general commercial channels.

[0024] In some embodiments of the present invention, a compound pectinase preparation is used for degumming.

[0025] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S4, NATFOCEOL-1056Bio is used as a composite degumming enzyme preparation for degumming.

[0026] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S4, after high-temperature inactivation, the device is washed with water at 60±5℃ for 6 times.

[0027] In some embodiments of the present invention, a three-in-one composite additive with refining, chelating dispersion and oxygen bleaching stabilizing functions is used for the boiling and bleaching one-bath method.

[0028] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S5, GM-1208 is used for the one-bath boiling and bleaching method. That is, the above-mentioned "three-in-one composite additive with refining, chelation dispersion and oxygen bleaching stabilization functions" is GM-1208, which is provided by Zhejiang Guangmei New Material Technology Co., Ltd.

[0029] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S5, the auxiliary agent formulation for the re-boiling and bleaching process consists of 15 g / L caustic soda, 12 g / L hydrogen peroxide, and 8 g / L composite auxiliary agent. The use of a multifunctional composite auxiliary agent (GM-1208) and the merging of boiling and bleaching significantly shortens the process flow. This formulation, while ensuring the removal of residual impurities and greatly improving fabric whiteness, significantly reduces water consumption and wastewater discharge compared to traditional multi-step processes.

[0030] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S6, the bath ratio is 1:8 to 1:12, and the process is repeated 6 to 8 times, including 2 times with 60°C hot water and 4 to 6 times with room temperature water.

[0031] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S6, a phosphorus-free, biodegradable surfactant (plant-derived soapberry extract) is used for cleaning, and the low-temperature water temperature is controlled at 30-40°C. The low bath ratio reduces water consumption. The bath ratio in step S6 of the present invention is controlled at 1:8 to 1:12, while the traditional process is often 1:15 to 1:20. Obviously, the present invention saves more water.

[0032] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S7, a dual-reactive-base dye is used for dyeing, with 30-80 g / L of sodium sulfate and 10-20 g / L of soda ash. The dual-reactive-base dye reacts with the hemp fiber to form more stable covalent bonds. Combined with a scientifically proportioned dyeing accelerator (sodium sulfate) and fixing agent (soda ash), the color fastness of wide-width hemp fabric (especially wash fastness and rubbing fastness) is significantly improved, while ensuring the amount of color obtained. It is understood that the above selection of the amount of sodium sulfate and soda ash can be selected and adjusted according to the required depth of dye.

[0033] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S7, dyeing is performed in a dyeing machine with the machine speed controlled at 75-85 m / min and the tension controlled at 5-10 N. A circulating pump with a flow rate ≥50 L / min is activated at the bottom of the dye bath to circulate the dye liquor. By precisely controlling the machine speed and maintaining constant low tension, the problems of "striping" (excessive tension) or "wrinkles / white spots" (insufficient tension) that easily occur in wide-width fabrics during the dyeing process are effectively solved. Combined with a high-flow-rate circulating pump, the uniformity of the dye liquor concentration is ensured, avoiding color differences and color variations, and ensuring consistent color across the left, center, and right sides of the wide-width fabric.

[0034] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S9, the chemical softening finishing process employs cationic silicone oil softener and organic acid neutralizer, with a padding temperature of 40–50°C, a roll-off rate of 70–75%, two dips and two nips, a setting temperature of 150–160°C, a machine speed of 40–45 m / min, and a working solution pH of 4.5–5.5. Cationic silicone oil has strong adsorption properties, forming a uniform lubricating film on the fiber surface, significantly reducing the coefficient of friction between fibers and giving the fabric a smooth and delicate feel. Specific padding and setting parameters ensure that the softener can penetrate evenly and adhere to the fiber interior, improving the wash resistance of the finishing effect.

[0035] In some embodiments of the present invention, the organic acid neutralizing agent refers to JY-1 neutralizing acid.

[0036] In some embodiments of the present invention, hydrophilic softening agent 380 provided by Zhejiang Liansheng New Material Co., Ltd. is used as the above-mentioned cationic silicone oil softener. This is a new generation of block copolymer material with a soft and flexible feel, slight slipperiness, and strong delicacy, giving the fabric excellent wearability and excellent skin-friendly and water-absorbing properties.

[0037] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S9, the physical softening treatment is performed in an airflow softener. High-pressure airflow is sprayed onto the fabric surface at a temperature of 100±5℃, a machine speed of 30±5m / min, and an airflow rate of 70±5%. The mechanical beating and kneading action of the high-pressure airflow physically loosens the entanglement between fibers, altering the fiber arrangement to make it fluffy. This step complements chemical softening, further eliminating internal stress and rigidity of the fibers, giving the fabric a natural, soft, and non-irritating final hand feel.

[0038] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S10, a rubber blanket pre-shrinking machine is used for the pre-shrinking treatment. This involves rubber blanket extrusion and drying cylinder shaping at a speed of 50 m / min, with the roller heating steam pressure at 0.4–0.6 bar and the temperature at 110 ± 5 °C. Through mechanical extrusion under specific pressure and temperature, the fabric is forced to shrink in the warp direction, eliminating potential internal stress generated during dyeing and finishing. This significantly improves the dimensional stability of wide-width linen fabrics, controls the shrinkage rate of the finished product within an ideal range, and imparts a smooth, naturally soft, and dense appearance to the fabric.

[0039] In some embodiments of the present invention, the desizing, degumming, re-boiling and bleaching, and dyeing processes are all completed in a dual-frequency conversion dyeing machine at ambient temperature and pressure. Integrating these processes into the dual-frequency dyeing machine significantly shortens the process flow. The capacity of the dyeing machine is controlled at 800–1200 m³ / batch. Concentrating the wet treatment processes within the dyeing machine not only reduces damage and energy consumption caused by the transfer of fabric between different devices, achieving low-liquor-ratio, environmentally friendly, and energy-saving production; but also ensures sufficient dye liquor exchange and stable liquor ratio by controlling the appropriate capacity, guaranteeing the uniformity of fabric quality across the entire batch.

[0040] The core concept of this invention is to establish a complete ecological dyeing and finishing system of "bio-enzyme softening + dual physicochemical finishing": 1. Front-end hardening: Bio-enzymes (pectin / cellulose / ligninase) replace strong alkalis to directionally break down intercellular layer impurities, initially softening the fibers. At the same time, front-end polishing removes hardening, improves hand feel, and relieves itching; 2. Mid-end emission reduction: The process is shortened by using "roll dyeing machine + one-bath boiling and bleaching + low-temperature dyeing", reducing energy consumption and pollution, which is very environmentally friendly; 3. Back-end itching relief: The innovative combination of "cationic silicone oil chemical film formation" and "airflow physical loosening" eliminates fuzz and rigidity from the microstructure, completely solving the industry problem of itching in linen fabrics.

[0041] The eco-friendly linen dyeing and finishing process for wide-width home textile fabrics of this invention has wide applicability and can adapt to linen or linen-containing fabrics with different yarn counts, densities, compositions, and widths. To verify the universality and effectiveness of the process, the applicant selected several representative typical fabric types as applicable objects. Although the detailed test data subsequently presented in this specification are mainly based on one fabric specification, "51×52 14s / 14s linen 98″ plain weave" (i.e., number 5 in the list below), those skilled in the art should understand that the process parameters of this invention, after conventional adaptation adjustments based on fabric characteristics, are also applicable to wide-width fabrics including but not limited to the following specifications, and can achieve the technical effects of improving itchiness, enhancing hand feel, and being eco-friendly: (1) 52×52 14s / 14s Rain Dew Linen 99″ Plain Weave; (2) 50×51 14s / 14s Hemp 114″ Plain weave; (3) 50×50 15s / 15s Hemp 114″ Plain weave; (4) 52×52 17s / 17s Linen 111″ Plain weave; (5) 51×52 14s / 14s Linen 98″ Plain Weave (the key test object in the following examples); (6) 48×48 14s / 14s flax 110″ plain weave; (7) 54×52 17s / 17s flax 112.5″ plain weave; (8) 54×52 15s / 14s Hemp / Flax 99″ Plain weave; (9) 58×56 32s / (17s+16s) 100% cotton×(55% cotton / 45% linen) 112″ plain weave (new type of cotton and linen interwoven fabric); (10) 55×48 14s / 14s Tencel / Tencel (70% Tencel + 30% Linen) 111″ Plain weave (new type of Tencel-linen blended fabric).

[0042] Example 1 This embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing method for an eco-friendly white wide-width home textile fabric.

[0043] A wide-width linen grey fabric with finished specifications of 51×52 14s / 14s 98″ plain weave was selected and dyed and finished under the conditions of the wide-width eco-friendly linen dyeing and finishing process of this invention to obtain eco-friendly linen white finished product sample 2#. The specific process is as follows: First, singeing is performed on an OTHOFF OS07-4 singeing machine from Germany. The flame temperature is controlled at 1000-1200℃, the fabric speed is 60-90m / min, and the distance between the flame and the fabric surface is 1-3mm. A two-sided and two-reverse singeing process is adopted, that is, the front and back sides of the fabric are singed twice each to remove the fuzz and burrs on the fabric surface. Then, enzymatic desizing is performed in a Wuxi Yongli ambient temperature and pressure dual frequency conversion dyeing machine. 10g / L of enzymatic desizing agent (NATFOCE purchased from Jiangsu Xinruibei Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) is added to the desizing solution. The fabric was treated with OL-105XBIO, 3 g / L penetrant (purchased from Qingdao Fukai DX-6100A), and 3 g / L dispersing and complexing agent, running for 5 passes at 60℃ to remove sizing and dust from the fabric surface. Subsequently, degumming was performed in the same dyeing machine. The degumming bath contained 0.8% (owf. mass fraction) of 11L total enzyme (purchased from Genentech) and 0.8% (owf. mass fraction) of compound degumming enzyme (purchased from NATFOCE OL-1056). Bio) and acetic acid 3g / L were added to adjust the pH to 6.0. The mixture was then subjected to 8 washes at 50℃ to fully remove non-cellulose impurities such as pectin, wax, and ash from the hemp fibers. Following this, it was subjected to 3 washes at 98℃ to inactivate bacteria and terminate enzyme activity. Finally, it underwent 6 washes at 60℃ to obtain eco-friendly hemp pre-treated fabric with a residual gum content ≤3%. Subsequently, the fabric was subjected to a double-bath scouring and bleaching process using a dual-frequency conversion dyeing machine at Wuxi Yongli ambient temperature and pressure. The scouring and bleaching bath contained 15g / L caustic soda, 12g / L hydrogen peroxide, and 8g / L composite auxiliaries (GM-1208 purchased from Zhejiang Guangmei New Material Technology Co., Ltd.) to complete the refining and hydrogen peroxide bleaching treatment of the hemp fibers.

[0044] After the second boiling and bleaching, the fabric undergoes eco-dyeing (pure white, brightening) treatment on the same roll dyeing machine. A dual-reactive-base reactive dye system is used. Depending on the desired whitening or pure white color, 0.005% (owf) of reactive dye (for adjusting color with blue or purple) is added simultaneously, along with 30 g / L of sodium sulfate and 10 g / L of soda ash. The machine speed is controlled at 85 m / min, and the fabric is continuously immersed in the dye liquor. A bottom circulation pump ensures a dye liquor flow rate ≥50 L / min, guaranteeing uniformity of dye liquor concentration and temperature. The roll dyeing process is completed under a moderate, constant tension of 10 N, yielding a white eco-friendly linen-dyed fabric. After dyeing, the fabric is thoroughly washed and dried. After drying, the fabric underwent chemical softening finishing on a Korean Rihwa setting machine. The softening working solution contained 30 g / L of cationic silicone softener (Zhejiang Liansheng New Material hydrophilic softening agent 380) and 1-2 g / L of neutralizing acid JY-1. The padding temperature was 50℃, the roll-off rate was 75%, and the pH of the working solution was controlled at 5.5. After two dips and two pads, the fabric was baked and set at 160℃ and a speed of 45 m / min. Subsequently, physical softening finishing was performed in a Huayi Machinery airflow softener under the following conditions: temperature 100℃, speed 30 m / min, and airflow 70%. High-pressure airflow and mechanical impact were used to loosen the fiber binding. Finally, mechanical pre-shrinking was performed on a German Monforts wide-width shrinking machine at a speed of 50 m / min and a roller heating steam pressure of 0.6 MPa (approximately 110℃). This allowed the fabric to release internal stress under humid and hot conditions, resulting in a dimensionally stable eco-friendly linen white wide-width home textile fabric sample #2.

[0045] Sample 2# (white) obtained in Example 1 was tested for itching sensation according to the classification method of FZ / T 30005-2009 "Evaluation Method for Itching Sensitivity of Ramie Fabrics" with 7 female subjects of different ages. The probability of itching sensation was 0%, and the anti-itching sensation rating was "excellent". The color fastness to rubbing was tested according to GB / T 3920, with dry rubbing grade 4-5 and wet rubbing grade 4; the color fastness to soaping was tested according to GB / T 3921.3, with color change grade 4 and staining grade 4; the color fastness to perspiration was tested according to GB / T 3922, with color change grade 4 and staining grade 4-5 under acidic perspiration conditions and under alkaline perspiration conditions; the color fastness to sunlight was tested according to GB / T 8427, with a grade of 4; and the color fastness to water was tested according to GB / T 5713, with color change grade 4 and staining grade 4-5. The breaking strength (strip method) was tested according to GB / T 3923.1, with 390N in the warp and 285N in the weft; the tearing strength (pendulum method) was greater than 16N in both the warp and weft directions; the anti-pilling performance was tested according to GB / T4802.2 and was grade 4. The fabric density was 54×52 threads / inch, and the fabric weight was 163g / m². 2The fabric drape was tested according to GB / T 23329-2009 Method B Image Processing Method, with a static drape coefficient of 32.23%, a dynamic drape coefficient of 61.8%, and a morphological change rate of 87.36%. The pH value was 6.82, and the free formaldehyde content was 31.7 mg / kg, far below the limit of 75 mg / kg. The dimensional stability after washing was tested according to GB / T 8628–8630, with a warp shrinkage rate of -3.62% and a weft shrinkage rate of -3.04%.

[0046] Comparative Example 1 This comparative example provides a dyeing and finishing method for a conventional linen white wide-width home textile fabric.

[0047] Comparative Example 1 used a wide-width linen grey fabric with finished specifications of 51×52 14s / 14s 98″ plain weave (same specifications as Example 1). It was produced using existing conventional linen dyeing and finishing processes, namely, following conventional formulas and using conventional equipment to sequentially complete singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, drying, and conventional softening and setting finishing. The bio-enzyme degumming, composite auxiliary agent one-bath scouring and bleaching, and chemical-physical synergistic softening processes described in this invention were not used. The resulting finished sample was numbered 1# (EC06-0577, linen natural color white using conventional processes). Specifically, the aforementioned "existing conventional linen dyeing and finishing process" is: singeing - desizing (using caustic soda) - washing - scouring and bleaching (alkali scouring and bleaching 50g / L + hydrogen peroxide bleaching) - chlorine bleaching and re-bleaching (NaClO). 30~50g / L) - Mercerizing (200g / L liquid alkali) - Washing - Dyeing - Drying - Softening - Shrinking - Final Inspection; Ecological hemp process is singeing → desizing (preferably biochemical enzymes) → washing → degumming → re-boiling and bleaching → washing → dyeing → drying → softening → shrinking → final inspection.

[0048] It is worth noting that the traditional dyeing and finishing process for linen textiles generally includes: singeing, desizing (with alkali or biochemical enzymes), washing, boiling and bleaching (alkali boiling and bleaching 30~100g / L + hydrogen peroxide bleaching), chlorine bleaching and re-bleaching (NaClO 30~50g / L), mercerizing (200~220g / L liquid alkali), washing, dyeing, drying, softening, shrinkage, and final inspection. The traditional process differs significantly from the ecological hemp process proposed in this invention and has the following obvious technical defects: First, the traditional process uses caustic soda concentrations as high as 30-100 g / L during desizing and bleaching. Although alkali treatment can significantly remove various impurities and ash, it can lead to a noticeable itchy feeling in the finished product. Second, the traditional process uses chlorine bleaching and rebleaching, which is less environmentally friendly and carries the risk of residual chlorine. Third, the traditional process often includes a mercerizing process, using liquid alkali concentrations as high as 200-220 g / L, which is not conducive to improving the feel and preventing itchiness. Fourth, the traditional process often uses large-molecule smooth silicone softeners in the softening process, most of which are non-hydrophilic, resulting in poor feel and hydrophilicity of the finished product. Fifth, the traditional process lacks a composite degumming process using multiple biochemical enzymes and a hemp polishing process using all-purpose enzymes, resulting in a far inferior effect in terms of smoothness, comfort, and anti-itch properties compared to this invention. The poor hand feel and itchiness of linen fabrics are recognized problems in the industry. Traditional processes lack systematic research on "skin-friendly comfort, ultra-smoothness and anti-itch". The desizing, boiling, bleaching, mercerizing and softening processes are not conducive to achieving the above effects. According to the SGS test report, the probability of itchiness of linen fabrics after ordinary conventional processes is as high as 100%.

[0049] The performance test results of sample 1# obtained from Comparative Example 1 are as follows: According to the FZ / T30005-2009 classification method, the itch sensation test showed an itch sensation probability of 100% (conventional process), and the itch resistance rating was "poor". The results of the color fastness to rubbing (GB / T3920) test were: dry rubbing grade 4-5, wet rubbing grade 4; the color fastness to soap washing (GB / T3921.3) were: color change grade 4, staining grade 4; the color fastness to perspiration (GB / T3922) were: color change grade 4, staining grade 4-5 under acidic perspiration conditions, and color change grade 4, staining grade 4-5 under alkaline perspiration conditions; the color fastness to sunlight (GB / T8427) was grade 4; and the color fastness to water (GB / T 5713) were: color change grade 4, staining grade 4-5. Overall, the product is at the qualified or first-class level. **Tear strength (strip method) tested according to GB / T 3923.1: 531 N in warp and 300 N in weft; tear strength (pendulum method): greater than 16 N in both warp and weft.** The fabric pilling grade is 3-4. The fabric density is 60×44 threads / inch, and the fabric weight is 184 g / m². 2In the fabric drape test, the static drape coefficient was 33.64%, the dynamic drape coefficient was 57.19%, and the morphological change rate was 70.03%. According to the water absorption test of GB / T21665.1 (water droplet diffusion method), the complete diffusion time was 7 seconds, and the evaluation was "good". The pH value was 6.82, and the free formaldehyde content was 7.3 ppm. Regarding dimensional stability after washing, the warp shrinkage rate was -3.93%, and the weft shrinkage rate was -3.53%.

[0050] As can be seen from the comparison of itching sensation and drape performance between Comparative Example 1 and Example 1, the probability of itching sensation of conventional process sample 1# is 100%, and the static drape coefficient, dynamic drape coefficient and morphological change rate are slightly inferior to those of the ecological hemp process sample. On the other hand, the probability of itching sensation of ecological hemp sample 2# obtained in Example 1 is 0%, the anti-itch rating is "excellent", and the fabric hand feel rating is "++". While maintaining good color fastness and dimensional stability, it significantly improves the itching sensation, hand feel and drape performance of hemp fabric.

[0051] Example 2 This embodiment provides a dyeing and finishing method for an eco-friendly heather blue wide-width home textile fabric.

[0052] Example 2 was carried out under the same ecological hemp dyeing and finishing process conditions as Example 1, except that the reactive dye formula was adjusted to a blue formula during the dyeing stage. The remaining process steps and conditions were the same as in Example 1. The greige fabric used was a wide-width hemp grey fabric with finished specifications of 51×52 14s / 14s linen 98″ plain weave. It was successively singed twice on an OTHOFF singeing machine (1000-1200℃), and desized in a Wuxi Yongli roll dyeing machine under the conditions of 10g / L enzyme desizing agent, 3g / L penetrant, 3g / L dispersing complexing agent, and 60℃. Then, it was desized by biological enzymes under the conditions of 11L 0.8% all-purpose enzyme, 0.8% compound degumming enzyme, 3g / L acetic acid, pH 5, and 50℃. Subsequently, it was inactivated at 98℃ and washed at 60℃. Finally, it was bleached again on a roll dyeing machine with 15g / L caustic soda, 12g / L hydrogen peroxide, and 8g / L compound auxiliaries.

[0053] Subsequently, a roll-dyeing reactive dyeing process was carried out using a dual-reactive-base reactive dye. The amount of reactive dye (blue) in the dye solution was 2.0% (owf.), the amount of sodium sulfate was 50 g / L, the amount of soda ash was 15 g / L, the machine speed was 85 m / min, and the tension was controlled at 5-10 N. After dyeing, the product was dried and then chemically softened on a Korean Rihwa setting machine under the conditions of padding temperature 50℃, roll-off rate 75%, working solution pH 5, baking temperature 150℃, and machine speed 40 m / min (cationic silicone oil softener amount 30 g / L). Then, physical softening was carried out on a Huayi Machinery airflow softener at a temperature of 100℃, machine speed 30 m / min, and air volume 70%. Finally, mechanical shrinking was carried out on a German Monforts wide-width shrinking machine to obtain ecological hemp blue finished product sample 3#.

[0054] The testing method for sample 3# (blue) obtained in Example 2 was the same as that in Example 1. The probability of itching in the itch test was 0%, and the itch resistance rating was "excellent". Color fastness to rubbing (dry rubbing grade 4-5, wet rubbing grade 4); color fastness to washing with soap (color change grade 4, staining grade 4); color fastness to perspiration (color change grade 4, staining grade 4-5 under acid / alkali perspiration conditions); color fastness to sunlight was grade 4; color fastness to water (color change grade 4, staining grade 4-5). Breaking strength (strip method) was 390N in the warp and 288N in the weft; tearing strength was greater than 16N in both the warp and weft directions; anti-pilling performance was grade 4. The fabric density was 54×52 threads / inch, and the fabric weight was 163g / m². 2 In the fabric drape test, the static drape coefficient was 33.04%, the dynamic drape coefficient was 67.19%, and the morphological change rate was 75.03%. The pH value was 6.66, and the free formaldehyde content was 32.5 mg / kg. In the dimensional stability test after washing, the warp shrinkage rate was -3.53%, and the weft shrinkage rate was -3.02%.

[0055] Comparative experiments of Examples 1 and 2 with Comparative Example 1 show that the wide-width eco-friendly ramie dyeing and finishing process of the present invention has significant advantages in terms of anti-itching and drape feel. Specifically, the EC06-0577 sample in Comparative Example 1, treated with conventional processes, had an itching probability of 100% and was rated as "poor"; while the eco-friendly ramie samples EO08-0376 white (2#) and EC08-0376 blue (3#) corresponding to Examples 1 and 2 both had an itching probability of 0% and an anti-itching evaluation of "excellent", meeting the requirements of Level 1-2 comfort standards in GB / T35449-2017 "Evaluation of Itching Sensitivity of Textiles" and FZ / T30005-2009 "Evaluation Method for Itching Sensitivity of Ramie Fabrics", achieving a qualitative change from "significant itching" to "no significant itching".

[0056] It is worth noting that, in terms of drape and hand feel, the static drape coefficient of sample 1# obtained by conventional process is 33.64%, the dynamic drape coefficient is 57.19%, the shape change rate is 70.03%, and the hand feel rating is "-"; the static drape coefficient of sample 2# obtained in Example 1 is 32.23%, the dynamic drape coefficient is 61.8%, and the shape change rate is 87.36%; the static drape coefficient of sample 3# obtained in Example 2 is 33.04%, the dynamic drape coefficient is 67.19%, and the shape change rate is 75.03%. The static drape coefficient is slightly better, and the shape change rate is improved significantly. The hand feel ratings for the two samples are "++" and "+", respectively. Therefore, while significantly reducing itching, the fabric treated by the process of this invention exhibits superior static drape, dynamic drape, and shape change retention compared to samples obtained by conventional process. The overall hand feel is softer and smoother while retaining the original crispness of linen fabric.

[0057] It is understandable that, in terms of mechanical properties and appearance, the breaking strength of the ecological hemp samples 2# (white) and 3# (blue) in this embodiment of the invention reaches approximately 390N in the warp direction and 285N and 288N in the weft direction, respectively, which are significantly higher than the work order's requirement of 250N in both the warp and weft directions; the tearing strength is greater than 16N in both the warp and weft directions, and the anti-pilling performance is level 4, meeting and exceeding the work order's level 3 or 4 requirements. In contrast, although the conventional process sample 1# of Comparative Example 1 has a higher breaking strength, its pilling performance is only level 3-4, and its hand feel is rated as "-", with a noticeable itchy sensation. This invention, while ensuring or even slightly improving the breaking strength, tearing strength, and pilling performance, achieves this by changing the fabric density and weight (from 60×44, 184g / m²). 2 Optimized to 54×52, approximately 163g / m³ 2 This makes the fabric lighter, softer, and smoother, while maintaining good durability and shape stability.

[0058] Furthermore, regarding ecological safety and dimensional stability, the ecological hemp samples #2 and #3 from Examples 1 and 2 all achieved a color fastness of 4 or 4–5 in terms of sunlight resistance, water resistance, soap resistance, perspiration resistance, and dry and wet rubbing, significantly exceeding the requirements of GB18401 Class B, Grade 3 or 3–4. Their pH values ​​were 6.82 and 6.66, respectively, and their free formaldehyde contents were 31.7 mg / kg and 32.5 mg / kg, respectively, both far below the GB18401 Class B limit of 75 mg / kg. In terms of dimensional stability after washing, the warp and weft shrinkage rates of the examples were controlled at approximately -3.5%, better than the work order requirement of less than 4%, ensuring the dimensional stability and service life of wide-width home textile products after multiple washes. Based on the above comparison results, it can be seen that the eco-friendly hemp dyeing and finishing process of the present invention significantly reduces itching and improves drape and hand feel, while taking into account mechanical properties, color fastness, ecological safety and dimensional stability, achieving a comprehensive improvement in "comfort + functionality + environmental protection", and is suitable for promotion and application in the industrial production of mid-to-high-end home textile wide-width eco-friendly hemp fabrics.

[0059] The above description is merely a specific embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto. Any variations or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope disclosed in the present invention should be included within the scope of protection of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of protection of the present invention should be determined by the scope of the claims. Furthermore, specific examples have been used in the specification to illustrate the principles and implementation methods of the present invention. The above description of the embodiments is only for the purpose of helping to understand the method and core ideas of the present invention, and the content of this specification should not be construed as a limitation of the present invention.

Claims

1. A dyeing and finishing method for wide-width eco-friendly linen fabrics used in home textiles, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1, singeing the linen fabric to remove fuzz and burrs from the fabric surface; S2 uses an enzyme desizing agent to remove sizing and dust from the fabric surface; S3, Cleaning the desized fabric; S4 involves immersing the fabric in a degumming solution to react and remove ash, pectin, lignin, and wax from the fibers. It also acts as an enzyme polish for the hemp fibers. After degumming, the fabric is subjected to high-temperature inactivation and washing. S5 uses a one-bath boiling and bleaching method, using hydrogen peroxide as a bleaching agent to re-boil and bleach the fabric. S6, Washing bleached fabrics; S7, using reactive dyes to dye the fabric; S8, drying the dyed fabric; S9, the fabric is subjected to chemical softening treatment and physical softening treatment in sequence; S10, mechanical pre-shrinking treatment of the fabric.

2. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S1, the process parameters for the singeing treatment are as follows: The flame temperature is 1000-1200℃, the fabric speed is 60-90m / min, the distance between the flame and the fabric surface is 1-3mm, and the singeing method is two times on the front and two times on the back.

3. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S2: The desizing process is carried out in the dyeing machine at a temperature of 60℃ for 5 runs; The dosage of the enzyme desizing agent is 10 g / L, and it is used in combination with 3 g / L of penetrant and 3 g / L of dispersant and complexing agent; The desizing agent is a biological compound desizing enzyme.

4. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S4, at least one of the following features is present: The degumming solution is a mixture of compound pectinase, cellulase and ligninase, with an enzyme activity ratio of 3:1:

1. The degumming process conditions are: temperature 50℃, pH of the degumming solution adjusted to 4.5-6.0 with acetic acid, and degumming carried out under these pH conditions for 8-10 cycles. The high-temperature inactivation conditions are a temperature of 98±2℃, and three cycles are run. Degumming was performed using highly active cellulase with an enzyme activity >32,660 NCAU / g; Degumming was performed using a compound pectinase preparation; After high-temperature inactivation, it is washed 6 times with water at 60±5℃.

5. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, Step S5 has at least one of the following characteristics: The boiling and bleaching one-bath method is carried out using a three-in-one composite additive with refining, chelating dispersion and oxygen bleaching stabilizing functions. The formulation of the auxiliary agent for the re-boiling bleaching is 15g / L caustic soda, 12g / L hydrogen peroxide, and 8g / L compound auxiliary agent.

6. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, Step S7 has at least one of the following characteristics: Reactive dyes, preferably dual-reactive-group reactive dyes, are used for dyeing, and sodium sulfate is used at a concentration of 30–80 g / L and soda ash at a concentration of 10–20 g / L. Dyeing is carried out in a dyeing machine with the machine speed controlled at 75-85 m / min and the tension controlled at 5-10 N. A circulation pump with a flow rate of ≥50 L / min is turned on at the bottom of the dyeing tank to circulate the dye liquor.

7. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S9, the chemical softening finishing process uses cationic silicone oil softener and organic acid neutralizer, with a padding temperature of 40-50°C, a roll yield of 70-75%, two dips and two rolls, a setting temperature of 150-160°C, a machine speed of 40-45 m / min, and a working solution pH of 4.5-5.

5.

8. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S9, the physical softening process is carried out in an airflow softener, where high-pressure airflow is sprayed onto the fabric surface at a temperature of 100±5℃, a speed of 30±5m / min, and an air volume of 70±5%.

9. The dyeing and finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S10, the pre-shrinking process is carried out using a rubber blanket pre-shrinking machine. The process involves extruding the rubber blanket and shaping it in a drying cylinder. The machine speed is 50 m / min, the steam pressure for heating the drum is 0.4 to 0.6 bar, and the temperature is 110 ± 5 °C.

10. The dyeing and finishing method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that, The desizing, degumming, re-boiling and bleaching, and dyeing processes are all completed in a normal temperature and pressure dual-frequency conversion dyeing machine, and the capacity of the dyeing machine is controlled at 800-1200m / cylinder.

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