Whitening, skin-tendering and anti-aging composition as well as preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a whitening, skin-tendering and anti-aging composition and a preparation method and application thereof.The whitening, skin-tendering and anti-aging composition is composed of the following components: a core active component: a peony root bark extract, the paeonol content of which is larger than or equal to 10% and the paeoniflorin content of which is larger than or equal to 8% (HPLC (High Performance Liquid Chromatography) detection); the solvent / carrier component is 1, 3-butanediol which is used as a compatible component of an extraction solvent and a cosmetic matrix; through efficient extraction with the 1, 3-butanediol and purification with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane, the content of paeonol is larger than or equal to 10%, the content of paeoniflorin is larger than or equal to 8%, and the content of paeonol and the content of paeoniflorin are obviously higher than those of commercially available peony extracts (generally paeonol is smaller than or equal to 5%), traditional ethyl alcohol is replaced with the 1, 3-butanediol, and therefore the paeoniflorin and paeoniflorin can be used for preparing the peony extract. The composition is low in irritation and good in compatibility with a cosmetic matrix, and is suitable for sensitive skin, and LD50 is greater than 2000mg / kg according to a skin irritation test.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a whitening and anti-aging composition, a preparation method and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] Skin aging and pigmentation (such as chloasma and dullness) are the core skin care pain points of consumers, and the core mechanisms are closely related to excessive melanin production, free radical oxidative damage and collagen loss. Traditional whitening and anti-aging ingredients such as vitamin C, arbutin and retinol have the problems of strong irritation, poor stability or single efficacy, which are difficult to meet the needs of consumers for mild and efficient skin care.

[0003] Plant extracts have become a research hotspot in the field of cosmetics due to their natural safety and multi-target action. As a traditional Chinese medicinal material, the root bark of Paeonia suffruticosa Andr. (also known as Danpi) is included in the 2020 edition of Chinese Pharmacopoeia. The active ingredients such as paeonol and paeoniflorin contained in it have been proven to have significant antioxidant, tyrosinase activity inhibition (reducing melanin synthesis) and collagen regeneration promotion effects. However, the existing extraction process of the root bark of Paeonia suffruticosa has obvious defects: first, the commonly used water extraction or ethanol extraction method has low efficiency and the active ingredients are not fully dissolved; second, there are many impurities such as polysaccharides and proteins in the extract, which need to be refined multiple times, resulting in loss of effective ingredients; third, there is a lack of directional purification technology for the synergistic effect of "whitening + skin softening + anti-aging", which limits its application effect in cosmetics. Therefore, a whitening, skin softening and anti-aging composition, a preparation method and application thereof are proposed. SUMMARY

[0004] Therefore, the present application provides a whitening, skin softening and anti-aging composition, a preparation method and application thereof to solve or alleviate the technical problems in the prior art, and at least provide a beneficial choice.

[0005] The technical solution of the present application is as follows: a whitening, skin softening and anti-aging composition is composed of the following components:

[0006] Core active component: Paeonia suffruticosa root bark extract, wherein the content of paeonol is ≥10%, and the content of paeoniflorin is ≥8% (determined by HPLC);

[0007] Solvent / carrier component: 1,3-butanediol, which is compatible with the extraction solvent and the cosmetic matrix;

[0008] Optional auxiliary component: one or more of deionized water, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate and p-hydroxyacetophenone (preservative, concentration ≤0.5%).

[0009] A preparation method of a whitening, skin softening and anti-aging composition includes the following steps:

[0010] Step one, raw material pretreatment: select dry peony root bark, remove impurities and crush to 20-40 mesh particles, for use;

[0011] Step two, efficient extraction: mix peony root bark particles with 1,3-butanediol at a mass ratio of 1:5 to 1:15, and stir at a constant temperature of 40-60℃ for 2-4 hours;

[0012] Step three, solid-liquid separation: remove the residue by centrifugation (3000-5000 rpm, 10 minutes) or filtration, and collect the extract;

[0013] Step four, low molecular membrane filtration purification: filter the extract using an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 3000-10000 Da to retain small molecular active ingredients and remove large molecular impurities such as polysaccharides and proteins;

[0014] Step five, optional concentration and drying: concentrate the purified filtrate by vacuum distillation (temperature ≤60℃, vacuum degree ≤-0.08MPa) to a solid content of ≥20%, obtaining a high-concentration essence; or directly add a preservative and store in liquid form.

[0015] Further preferably, the mass ratio of peony root bark particles to 1,3-butanediol in step two is 1:8, the extraction temperature is 50℃, and the extraction time is 3 hours.

[0016] Further preferably, the ultrafiltration membrane in step four has a molecular weight cutoff of 5000 Da.

[0017] The application of a whitening and anti-aging composition, the composition is compounded with other cosmetic raw materials as the core raw material to make essence, cream, emulsion or mask; wherein the addition amount of the composition in the cosmetic is 2%-15%: the addition amount in the essence is 5%-15% (preferably 10%), the addition amount in the cream / emulsion is 3%-8% (preferably 5%), and the addition amount in the mask is 2%-5% (preferably 3%).

[0018] Further preferably, the compounded cosmetic raw materials include one or more of niacinamide, asiaticoside extract, bovine serum albumin, hyaluronic acid, transferrin, squalane, ceramide, trehalose or VC derivatives.

[0019] The embodiments of the present application have the following advantages due to the use of the above technical solutions:

[0020] I. The invention is extracted by 1,3-butanediol and purified by 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane, the content of paeonol is ≥10%, the content of paeonol is ≥8%, which is significantly higher than the content of paeonol in commercially available peony extract (usually ≤5%), 1,3-butanediol replaces traditional ethanol, which has low irritation and good compatibility with cosmetic matrix, and the skin irritation test shows that LD50>2000mg / kg, which is suitable for sensitive skin.

[0021] II. The invention realizes whitening (black inhibition), skin tendering (collagen promotion) and anti-aging (antioxidation) by the synergistic effect of paeonol and paeonol, solves the limitation of single component effect, can be adapted to various cosmetic formulations, has high flexibility in compounding, and meets different skin care needs.

[0022] The above summary is only for the purpose of the description and is not intended to limit in any way. In addition to the illustrative aspects, embodiments and features described above, further aspects, embodiments and features of the present application will be apparent from the drawings and the following detailed description. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0023] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application or the prior art, the drawings needed to be used in the embodiments or the prior art description will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings in the following description are only some embodiments of the present application, and those skilled in the art can also obtain other drawings according to these drawings without creating any creative labor.

[0024] Figure 1 The flow chart of the preparation method of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0025] In the following, only some exemplary embodiments are simply described. As those skilled in the art can recognize, the described embodiments can be modified in various different ways without departing from the spirit or scope of the present application. Therefore, the drawings and the description are considered to be exemplary in nature rather than limiting.

[0026] The embodiments of the present application will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings.

[0027] As Figure 1 shown, the embodiment of the present application provides a whitening, skin tendering and anti-aging composition, which is composed of the following components:

[0028] Core active component: peony root bark extract, wherein the content of paeonol is ≥10% and the content of paeonol is ≥8% (HPLC detection);

[0029] Solvent / carrier component: 1,3-butanediol, which is an extraction solvent and a compatible component with cosmetic matrix;

[0030] Optional auxiliary components: one or more of deionized water, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, p-hydroxyacetophenone (preservative, concentration ≤0.5%).

[0031] A preparation method of a whitening and anti-aging composition, comprising the following steps:

[0032] Step one, raw material pretreatment: select dry peony root bark, remove impurities, and crush to 20-40 mesh particles for standby;

[0033] Step two, efficient extraction: mix the peony root bark particles with 1,3-butanediol at a mass ratio of 1:5 to 1:15, and stir at a constant temperature of 40-60°C for 2-4 hours;

[0034] Step three, solid-liquid separation: remove the dregs by centrifugation (3000-5000 rpm, 10 minutes) or filtration, and collect the extract;

[0035] Step four, low molecular membrane filtration purification: filter the extract using an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 3000-10000 Da, retain the small molecular active ingredients, and remove macromolecular impurities such as polysaccharides and proteins;

[0036] Step five, optional concentration and drying: concentrate the purified filtrate by reduced pressure distillation (temperature ≤60°C, vacuum degree ≤-0.08 MPa) to a solid content ≥20%, to obtain a high-concentration essence; or directly add a preservative and store in liquid form.

[0037] In one embodiment, the mass ratio of peony root bark particles to 1,3-butanediol in step two is 1:8, the extraction temperature is 50°C, and the extraction time is 3 hours.

[0038] In one embodiment, the ultrafiltration membrane in step four has a molecular weight cutoff of 5000 Da.

[0039] The application of a whitening and anti-aging composition, the composition is compounded with other cosmetic raw materials as the core raw material to make essence, cream, emulsion or mask; wherein the addition amount of the composition in the cosmetic is 2%-15%: the addition amount in the essence is 5%-15% (preferably 10%), the addition amount in the cream / emulsion is 3%-8% (preferably 5%), and the addition amount in the mask is 2%-5% (preferably 3%).

[0040] In one embodiment, the compounded cosmetic raw materials include one or more of niacinamide, asiaticoside extract, bovine collagen, hyaluronic acid, transferrin, squalane, ceramide, trehalose or VC derivatives.

[0041] The above merely illustrates the specific embodiments of the present application, but the protection scope of the present application is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art can easily think of various changes or replacements within the technical range disclosed by the present application, which should be covered in the protection scope of the present application. Therefore, the protection scope of the present application should be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims

1. A skin-whitening, skin-rejuvenating, and anti-aging composition, characterized in that: Composed of the following components composition: Core active ingredient: Peony root bark extract, with paeonol content ≥10% and paeoniflorin content ≥8% (HPLC detection); Solvent / carrier component: 1,3-Butanediol, as an extraction solvent compatible with cosmetic matrix components; Optional auxiliary components: one or more of the following: deionized water, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and p-hydroxyacetophenone (preservative, concentration ≤0.5%).

2. A method for preparing a skin-whitening, skin-rejuvenating, and anti-aging composition, as described in claim 1, characterized in that: Includes the following steps: Step 1: Raw material pretreatment: Select dried peony root bark, remove impurities, and pulverize it into 20-40 mesh particles for later use; Step 2, High-efficiency extraction: Mix peony root bark granules with 1,3-butanediol at a mass ratio of 1:5 to 1:15, and extract at a constant temperature of 40-60℃ with stirring for 2-4 hours; Step 3, solid-liquid separation: Remove the residue by centrifugation (3000-5000 rpm, 10 minutes) or filtration, and collect the extract; Step 4: Low molecular weight membrane filtration purification: The extract is filtered using an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 3000-10000 Da to retain small molecule active ingredients and remove large molecular impurities such as polysaccharides and proteins. Step 5, optional concentration and drying: The purified filtrate is concentrated to a solid content of ≥20% by vacuum distillation (temperature ≤60℃, vacuum degree ≤-0.08MPa) to obtain a high-concentration essence; or preservatives are added directly and it is stored in liquid form.

3. The method for preparing a skin-whitening, skin-rejuvenating, and anti-aging composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: In step two, the mass ratio of peony root bark granules to 1,3-butanediol is 1:8, the extraction temperature is 50℃, and the extraction time is 3 hours.

4. The method for preparing a skin-whitening, skin-rejuvenating, and anti-aging composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: The molecular weight cutoff of the ultrafiltration membrane in step four is 5000 Da.

5. The application of a skin-whitening, skin-rejuvenating, and anti-aging composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The composition is used as a core ingredient to combine with other cosmetic ingredients to make serums, creams, lotions or masks; wherein the amount of the composition added to the cosmetics is 2%-15%: 5%-15% (preferably 10%) for serums, 3%-8% (preferably 5%) for creams / lotions, and 2%-5% (preferably 3%) for masks.

6. The application of the skin-whitening, skin-rejuvenating, and anti-aging composition according to claim 5, characterized in that: The compound cosmetic ingredients include one or more of the following: niacinamide, centella asiatica extract, pro-xylane, hyaluronic acid, tranexamic acid, squalane, ceramide, trehalose, or vitamin C derivatives.

Images