Amino acid facial cleanser composition and application thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses an amino acid facial cleanser composition and application thereof, and aims to overcome the defects that the existing acne-removing facial cleanser is high in irritation, acne removal and mild cleaning are difficult to consider, and a single component only acts on a single target spot of acne. According to the composition, 5.0-25.0 wt% of sodium cocoyl glycinate, 0.1-2.0 wt% of capryloyl glycine, 0.2-5.0 wt% of nicotinamide and 0.01-0.5 wt% of a hydrolysis yeast extract are taken as core active components, the four components are specifically proportioned to form a synergistic effect, oil control and acne removal are realized through a closed-loop passage of pore cleaning, source oil control and targeted bacteriostasis, and the mild property is guaranteed by amino acid surface activity, and the skin barrier is not damaged. The composition disclosed by the invention can be prepared into facial cleanser and facial mousse, and is excellent in cleaning power and foamability, good in use experience and high in industrialization value.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically to an amino acid facial cleanser composition with synergistic oil control and acne-removing effects, and also to the preparation process of the composition and its application in facial cleansing cosmetics. Background Technology

[0002] Acne is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous unit. Its pathogenesis is closely related to multiple factors, including excessive sebum secretion, abnormal keratinization of the follicular opening, excessive proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, and local inflammatory reactions of the skin. The interaction of these factors easily leads to clogged pores and inflammation, resulting in acne lesions such as comedones, papules, and pustules, becoming a common problem that urgently needs to be addressed in the skincare industry. Facial cleansers, as a basic category of daily skin cleansing and care, are an important vehicle for preventing and improving mild to moderate acne. Therefore, facial cleansers that combine cleansing power with oil control and acne-reducing effects have become a key focus of market research and development and consumer demand.

[0003] Amino acid surfactants, due to their pH value being close to that of human skin, their gentle and low-irritant properties, and their resistance to damaging the skin barrier, are gradually replacing traditional soap-based and sulfate-based surfactants, becoming the mainstream cleansing ingredients in high-end facial cleansers. Among them, amino acid surfactants such as sodium cocoyl glycinate are widely used in facial cleanser formulations due to their excellent balance between cleansing power and gentleness. Meanwhile, research in the skincare field has discovered that many small-molecule active ingredients have the potential to control oil and reduce acne. For example, capryloyl glycine can regulate sebum secretion by inhibiting 5α-reductase activity and also has certain antibacterial properties. These research findings have been validated in the efficacy and safety studies of personal care products, providing a basis for selecting active ingredients in the formulation development of oil-controlling and acne-reducing facial cleansers.

[0004] However, existing amino acid facial cleansers that combine oil control and acne treatment still have many technical shortcomings, making it difficult to meet the market's dual demand for "gentle cleansing + effective oil control and acne treatment." Specifically: First, some acne-fighting cleansers, in pursuit of cleansing power, still incorporate soap-based or sulfate-based surfactants. While these can quickly remove skin oil, long-term use can damage the skin barrier, leading to dryness, sensitivity, and even compensatory oil production due to "oily outside, dry inside," contradicting the core need for acne treatment. Second, most oil-controlling and acne-fighting cleansers rely on high concentrations of salicylic acid, fruit acids, and other acidic ingredients to achieve acne-fighting effects. Long-term use of these ingredients can thin the stratum corneum, reduce the skin barrier's defense capabilities, increase the risk of skin sensitivity, and conflict with the gentle nature of amino acid surfactants. Third, existing formulas are mostly simple accumulations of active ingredients, lacking a systematic design targeting multiple stages of acne pathogenesis. Single active ingredients often only act on a single target point in acne development, failing to achieve multi-pathway synergistic intervention. Furthermore, the synergistic effect of cleansing and active ingredients was not considered, resulting in a significant reduction in the actual efficacy of oil-controlling and acne-reducing active ingredients due to problems such as clogged pores and low efficiency in reaching the target area. Fourth, some amino acid facial cleansers containing oil-controlling and acne-reducing active ingredients did not scientifically optimize the ratio of cleansing and active ingredients. The formula system simply piled up ingredients, either because the concentration of active ingredients was too high, affecting the product's gentleness, or because the concentration was too low. In addition, the facial cleanser had a short stay time on the skin, making it difficult to exert an effective oil-controlling and acne-reducing effect, and failing to achieve a balance between cleansing and efficacy.

[0005] In summary, developing an amino acid facial cleanser composition based on amino acid surfactants, through scientific formulation design to achieve synergistic effects between cleansing ingredients and oil-controlling and acne-reducing active ingredients, and possessing both high-efficiency cleansing, significant oil-controlling and acne-reducing effects while being gentle, low-irritant, and not damaging to the skin barrier, has become an urgent technical problem to be solved in the cosmetics field. Summary of the Invention

[0006] This invention aims to overcome the shortcomings of existing acne-removing facial cleansers, such as high irritation, difficulty in achieving both acne removal and gentle cleansing, and poor synergy of active ingredient efficacy. It provides an amino acid facial cleanser composition and its application. This composition not only offers an excellent gentle cleansing experience but also achieves comprehensive efficacy in preventing and improving acne through multiple pathways: "cleansing excess oil from pores (sodium cocoyl glycinate) → regulating sebum secretion at its source (capryloyl glycine + niacinamide) → specifically inhibiting Propionibacterium acnes (hydrolyzed yeast extract)".

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0008] In one embodiment, the present invention provides a synergistic oil-controlling and acne-reducing amino acid facial cleanser composition, the core active ingredients of which are composed of sodium cocoyl glycinate, capryloyl glycinate, niacinamide and hydrolyzed yeast extract, and the weight percentages of each ingredient are as follows: sodium cocoyl glycinate 5.0wt%-25.0wt%, capryloyl glycinate 0.1wt%-2.0wt%, niacinamide 0.2wt%-5.0wt%, and hydrolyzed yeast extract 0.01wt%-0.5wt%; wherein the hydrolyzed yeast extract is an antibacterial component that targets and inhibits Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus.

[0009] In another embodiment, in the liquid composition of the present invention, the sodium cocoyl glycinate is sodium cocoyl glycinate prepared by a biological method.

[0010] In another embodiment, the weight ratio of capryloylglycine to nicotinamide of the present invention is 1:(1-50).

[0011] In another embodiment, the weight ratio of the hydrolyzed yeast extract of the present invention to capryloyl glycine is 1:(2-200).

[0012] In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises a cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from one or more of self-renewing solvents, humectants, thickeners, preservatives, and fragrances.

[0013] In one embodiment, the present invention provides an application of an amino acid facial cleanser composition in the preparation of an oil-controlling and acne-reducing facial cleanser cosmetic.

[0014] In another embodiment, the oil-controlling and acne-removing facial cleanser of the present invention is a facial cleanser or a facial cleanser mousse.

[0015] In one embodiment, the present invention provides a method for preparing an amino acid facial cleanser composition, comprising the following steps:

[0016] S1. Preparation of Phase A: Weigh and mix polyol humectant, hydrophilic thickener and deionized water, heat and stir to 65-70℃ until the raw materials are completely dissolved to obtain a homogeneous Phase A system.

[0017] S2. Preparation of AB mixed phase: Take oil-based emulsifier and emulsifier separately and pre-prepare phase B. Heat until the raw materials are completely dissolved, then slowly add them to the phase A system and stir until the system is evenly dispersed to obtain AB mixed phase;

[0018] S3. Preparation of ABC mixed phase: Take water-soluble plant extract and chelating agent separately and pre-prepare and fully disperse them into phase C. Add phase C to the AB mixed phase and stir until evenly dispersed to obtain the ABC mixed phase.

[0019] S4. pH Adjustment and Material Combination: Add phase D to the ABC mixture, wherein phase D is a single component or multiple compounds of citric acid, sodium citrate, and arginine, and adjust the pH of the system to weakly acidic; then add phase E, wherein phase E is a mixture of a single component or multiple mixtures of preservatives, fragrances, and moisturizing amino acids with the composition, and stir evenly.

[0020] S5. Post-processing: Continue stirring and cool the system to 40-50℃ (e.g., 45℃). After stopping stirring, let it stand and cool naturally to obtain the amino acid facial cleanser.

[0021] In another embodiment, phase A of the present invention comprises deionized water, EDTA, glycerin, sodium cocoamphoacetate, PEG-150, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl glutamate, lauroyl sarcosine, and capryloyl glycine; phase B comprises hexadecyl alcohol, octadecyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, and ethylene glycol distearate; phase C comprises an acrylate copolymer emulsion and water; phase D comprises triethanolamine or citric acid; and phase E comprises a preservative, hydrolyzed yeast extract, and nicotinamide.

[0022] In another embodiment, the pH range of the adjustment system of the present invention is weakly acidic, ranging from 5.5 to 6.5, which matches the pH value of human skin surface.

[0023] The amino acid facial cleanser composition disclosed in this invention belongs to the field of cosmetic technology. Addressing the shortcomings of existing acne-fighting facial cleansers—such as high irritation, difficulty in simultaneously addressing acne and gentle cleansing, and the limited efficacy of single-ingredient products targeting only a single acne lesion—this invention achieves a synergistic effect of cleansing, oil control, acne treatment, and gentleness through a specific ratio of four ingredients: sodium cocoyl glycinate, capryloyl glycinate, niacinamide, and hydrolyzed yeast extract. Compared to existing technologies, it has significant advantages in cleansing efficacy, oil control and acne treatment effects, skin friendliness, and user experience. Specific beneficial effects are as follows:

[0024] 1. This invention abandons the design approach of simply piling up active ingredients in existing technologies, and constructs a closed-loop acne intervention system of "cleansing pores - controlling oil at the source - targeted antibacterial action". Using sodium cocoyl glycinate as a cleansing base, it gently unclogs pores of excess oil and dirt, creating favorable conditions for subsequent active ingredients to contact and act on the target site. Through the combination of capryloyl glycine and niacinamide, it dually inhibits 5α-reductase activity and synergistically blocks fat synthesis within sebaceous gland cells, reducing excessive sebum secretion from both the hormone source and oil production stage. Simultaneously, niacinamide accelerates keratin metabolism to prevent pore blockage, and capryloyl glycine regulates the skin's microecology, further improving the oily environment conducive to acne growth. Combined with hydrolyzed yeast extract, it achieves targeted and highly effective inhibition of Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, forming a synergistic antibacterial effect with capryloyl glycine, effectively reducing inflammatory acne caused by bacterial growth.

[0025] 2. This invention balances highly effective cleansing with extreme gentleness, completely solving the technical problem of existing acne-fighting facial cleansers struggling to balance cleansing power and gentleness. This invention uses bio-based sodium cocoyl glycinate as the main cleansing ingredient, replacing the strong degreasing soap bases and sulfate surfactants in existing technologies. It effectively removes oil and dirt from the skin surface and pores while maintaining excellent cleansing ability. Cleansing power comparison tests show its cleansing effect is comparable to commercially available acne-fighting facial cleansers, while also providing fine and rich foam, reducing damage to the skin barrier. Furthermore, all ingredients in this invention are scientifically proportioned, avoiding the problem of existing products adding high concentrations of irritating ingredients such as salicylic acid and fruit acids to pursue acne-fighting effects.

[0026] 3. The significant synergistic effect of the ingredients in this invention, produced under specific ratios, overcomes the shortcomings of existing technologies where single active ingredients are less effective due to the short skin contact time of cleansing products. Sodium cocoyl glycinate alone only has a cleansing effect; when used alone, capryloyl glycine, niacinamide, or hydrolyzed yeast extract have limited contact time with the skin during cleansing, resulting in significantly reduced oil control and antibacterial effects. However, this invention, by combining the four ingredients in a specific ratio, enhances the pore-clearing effect of the cleansing ingredients, improving the skin contact efficiency of the oil-controlling and antibacterial ingredients. The reduced sebum secretion from the oil-controlling ingredients decreases the nutrient supply to bacteria, making the antibacterial effect of the hydrolyzed yeast extract more targeted. The ingredients work together and support each other, resulting in a comprehensive oil control, antibacterial, and acne-reducing effect of the composition far exceeding the sum of the effects of each ingredient acting alone, achieving a synergistic effect.

[0027] 4. The amino acid facial cleanser composition of the present invention has been verified by foam performance testing. Its foaming performance and foam stabilization effect are superior to commercially available acne-removing facial cleansers of the same type. It can provide consumers with a delicate, dense and long-lasting foam experience, reduce skin friction during the cleansing process, further reduce skin irritation, and at the same time improve the comfort and pleasure of the use process.

[0028] 5. The facial cleansers, facial mousses, and other products prepared by the composition of the present invention have a simple preparation process and are easy to operate. They do not require complex production equipment, the production process is easy to control and has good repeatability, and can be adapted to the existing industrial production system of the cosmetics industry. This reduces the difficulty of the production process and the production cost, facilitates large-scale production and market promotion, and has significant economic benefits.

[0029] In summary, the amino acid facial cleanser composition of the present invention, through scientific ingredient compounding and proportioning design, fundamentally solves the core technical defects of existing acne-removing facial cleansers. It has the core advantages of efficient cleansing, multi-pathway oil control and acne removal, and gentle and non-irritating properties. Moreover, the product has a good user experience and high production feasibility. It has extremely high practical value and market promotion value in the field of cosmetic acne-removing facial cleansers and has broad application prospects. Attached Figure Description

[0030] Figure 1 Cleaning power comparison test results.

[0031] Figure 2 Results of comparative tests on foaming performance. Detailed Implementation

[0032] The present invention will be further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments. These embodiments are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Unless otherwise specified, the experimental methods used in the following embodiments are conventional methods; the materials and reagents used, unless otherwise specified, are commercially available.

[0033] The active ingredients of the amino acid facial cleanser composition of the present invention consist of sodium cocoyl glycinate, capryloyl glycinate, niacinamide, and hydrolyzed yeast extract. The preferred dosage ranges of each active ingredient are: sodium cocoyl glycinate 5.0wt%-25.0wt%, capryloyl glycinate 0.1wt%-2.0wt%, niacinamide 0.2wt%-5.0wt%, and hydrolyzed yeast extract 0.01wt%-0.5wt%.

[0034] Sodium cocoyl glycinate: As the main cleansing ingredient, it provides a fine and rich foam, gently removing excess oil and dirt from the skin surface and pores, creating a clean environment for the subsequent action of active ingredients. Its preferred dosage is 5.0wt%-25.0wt%.

[0035] Capryloyl glycine + niacinamide: As key oil-controlling and conditioning ingredients, they can effectively inhibit 5α-reductase activity, reduce excessive sebum secretion from the source, and fundamentally improve the oily environment that breeds acne. The preferred dosage of capryloyl glycine is 0.1wt%-2.0wt%; the preferred dosage of niacinamide is 0.2wt%-5.0wt%.

[0036] Hydrolyzed yeast extract can effectively target and inhibit Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, reducing inflammatory acne caused by bacterial growth. The preferred dosage is 0.01wt%-0.5wt%.

[0037] In the following embodiments, apart from the active ingredient, the other excipients are conventional facial cleansing product raw materials in the cosmetic field, which can be conventionally selected according to product form requirements, including but not limited to moisturizers, thickeners, pH adjusters, preservatives, fragrances, deionized water, etc. The amount of each excipient added is the conventional amount used in the cosmetic field and does not affect the synergistic oil control, acne removal and gentle cleansing effects of the active ingredient of the present invention.

[0038] Example 1: Amino Acid Cleansing Mousse

[0039] The amino acid facial cleansing mousse prepared in this embodiment is a foam-type facial cleanser, and its formula by weight percentage is shown in Table 1 below:

[0040] Table 1. Amino Acid Acne-Clearing Cleansing Mousse Formula

[0041]

[0042] Preparation process:

[0043] Weigh all the raw materials for phase A, place them in a reaction vessel, heat and stir, control the temperature at 65-70℃, and continue stirring until all raw materials are completely dissolved to form a uniform and transparent phase A system;

[0044] Slowly add phase B raw materials to phase A system while stirring. Triethanolamine or citric acid is used to adjust the pH of the system to 5.5-6.5 (close to the physiological pH of the skin, improving mildness).

[0045] While stirring, allow the system to cool naturally to 50°C, add all the raw materials of phase C, and continue stirring until all raw materials are evenly dispersed and there are no particulate substances.

[0046] Stop stirring and allow the system to cool naturally to room temperature to obtain the amino acid facial cleansing mousse of this invention.

[0047] A comparative test of the cleansing power of a certain brand of acne-removing facial cleanser sold in a certain market and the amino acid acne-removing facial cleanser mousse of the present invention.

[0048] Experimental preparation:

[0049] 1) Stain preparation:

[0050] Wisence Black-AS BL-100P-SM: 38.8wt%

[0051] Squalane: 35wt%

[0052] Polydimethylsiloxane 100cs: 25wt%

[0053] Preservative: 1.2 wt%.

[0054] 2) Dirt dosage: 3mg / cm³ 2

[0055] 3) Test sites: inner side of both arms (forearms), symmetrical area.

[0056] 4) Sample cleaning dosage: 2 mg / cm³ 2 .

[0057] Test Procedure: Apply the dirt evenly to the inside of the arm. Take the sample to be tested, apply it to the dirt area, and gently massage for 30 seconds using a fixed technique. Rinse with pure water at a flow rate of 0.3 L / min (or another fixed flow rate) for 20 seconds. Gently pat dry and let stand for 10 minutes. Test results are as follows: Figure 1 As shown, serial number 1 is the amino acid facial cleansing mousse of the present invention, and serial number 2 is a commercially available amino acid facial cleanser.

[0058] The amino acid facial cleansing mousse prepared in this embodiment was tested for cleansing power, and its cleansing effect on skin surface oil and artificially simulated dirt was comparable to that of commercially available acne-removing facial cleansers, demonstrating good cleansing performance.

[0059] Example 2: Amino Acid Facial Cleanser

[0060] A synergistic oil-controlling and acne-reducing amino acid facial cleanser composition, the active ingredients of which consist of sodium cocoyl glycinate, capryloyl glycinate, niacinamide and hydrolyzed yeast extract.

[0061] Sodium cocoyl glycinate: As the main cleansing ingredient, it provides a fine and rich foam, gently removing excess oil and dirt from the skin surface and pores, creating a clean environment for the subsequent action of active ingredients. Its preferred dosage is 5.0wt%-25.0wt%.

[0062] Capryloyl glycine + niacinamide: As key oil-controlling and conditioning ingredients, they can effectively inhibit 5α-reductase activity, reduce excessive sebum secretion from the source, and fundamentally improve the oily environment that breeds acne. The preferred dosage of capryloyl glycine is 0.1wt%-2.0wt%; the preferred dosage of niacinamide is 0.2wt%-5.0wt%.

[0063] Hydrolyzed yeast extract can effectively target and inhibit Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, reducing inflammatory acne caused by bacterial growth. The preferred dosage is 0.01wt%-0.5wt%. Specific experimental formulations are shown in Table 2.

[0064] Table 2. Amino Acid Facial Cleanser Formula Table

[0065]

[0066] Preparation process:

[0067] 1) Weigh phase A, heat and stir to approximately 65-70℃ until completely dissolved;

[0068] 2) Prepare phase B and heat until completely dissolved.

[0069] 3) Add phase B to phase A and disperse evenly;

[0070] 4) The pre-formed C phase is evenly dispersed.

[0071] 5) Add phase C to AB and disperse evenly.

[0072] 6) Add phase D to adjust the pH of the system.

[0073] 7) Add phase E, stir and cool to about 45°C, stop stirring and let stand to cool.

[0074] The composition was applied to facial cleansing products, and the mildness, oil control, and antibacterial properties of amino acid facial cleanser-1 (blank group), amino acid facial cleanser-2 (experimental group), and amino acid facial cleanser-3 (positive control group) were evaluated to demonstrate the synergistic effect of the composition of the present invention. The specific details are as follows:

[0075] 1. Antibacterial performance test

[0076] Test method:

[0077] The inhibitory effects of amino acid facial cleanser-1 (blank group), amino acid facial cleanser-2 (experimental group), and amino acid facial cleanser-3 (positive control group) on *Propionibacterium acnes* were evaluated. The positive control group was a commercially available salicylic acid facial cleanser. Test strain: *Propionibacterium acnes* ATCC 6919; effective concentration: 10 wt%. BHI solid medium: 24.5 g of Beijing Luqiao Brain and Heart Extract Broth Mixed Medium and 20 g of agar were added to 1000 ml of ultrapure water. Sterilized at 121℃ for 20 min under high temperature and autoclave. BHI liquid medium: 24.5 g of Beijing Luqiao Brain and Heart Extract Broth Mixed Medium was added to 1000 ml of ultrapure water. Sterilized at 121℃ for 20 min under high temperature and autoclave. Sterilized ultrapure water: 200 ml of ultrapure water was sterilized at 121℃ for 20 min under high temperature and autoclave.

[0078] Experimental steps:

[0079] 1) Cultivating bacterial culture: Take 2 ml of liquid culture medium, pick a single colony, place it in a 2 ml EP tube, and incubate at 37℃ for 48 hours. Remove the tube when the culture medium becomes noticeably turbid. 2) Diluting the bacterial culture: Dilute the bacterial culture to 5.0 x 10⁻⁶ with sterile ultrapure water. 5 ~4.5x10 6 CFU / ml (so that 0.1ml is added to 5.0ml of control solution (sterile water), and the recovered bacterial count is 1.0 x 10⁻⁶). 4 ~9x10 4 3) Sample dilution: Dilute with sterile ultrapure water. 4) The experimental system is 1 ml sample + 20 μl bacterial suspension, incubated at 37℃ for 1 h. 5) A blank control group and a negative control group were set up simultaneously; the blank control group was 1 ml sterile water, and the negative control group was 1 ml sterile water + 20 μl bacterial suspension; each experimental group (amino acid facial cleanser-1 (blank group), amino acid facial cleanser-2 (experimental group), amino acid facial cleanser-3 (positive control group)), blank control group, and negative control group were set up in 3 replicates. 6) After the set time, 100 μl of sample dilution (appropriate 2-3 gradients) was taken and spread on a sterile Petri dish, and then placed in an anaerobic incubator at 37℃ for 48 h for suitable bacterial count. 7) Calculation of inhibition rate X = (A0-A1) / A1×100%, where: X is the inhibition rate, %; A0 is the amount of bacteria recovered in the positive control group, in CFU / ml; A1 is the amount of bacteria recovered in the experimental group, in CFU / ml.

[0080] Table 3 Results of antibacterial rate test

[0081]

[0082] As shown in Table 3, the test results indicate that the composition (experimental group) has a significant inhibitory effect on Propionibacterium acnes compared to the blank group, and its inhibitory effect on Propionibacterium acnes is even better compared to the positive control group, namely commercially available salicylic acid facial cleanser.

[0083] 2. Test for inhibition of 5α-reductase activity

[0084] 5α-Reductase is a key enzyme in the metabolism of androgens in the skin, reducing testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT is the most potent androgen receptor agonist. Excessive androgen secretion leads to hyperfunction of the sebaceous glands, stimulating them to secrete oil. Inhibiting 5α-reductase activity can effectively reduce DHT production and improve oil secretion. A higher inhibition rate of 5α-reductase indicates a stronger oil-controlling effect, and vice versa. Based on this principle, this test uses the degree of inhibition of 5α-reductase activity by the experimental samples to preliminarily determine the oil-controlling efficacy of the samples. The experimental materials include phosphate buffer, NADPH solution, and a 5α-reductase inhibition rate assessment kit.

[0085] Experimental steps:

[0086] Add 0.1 mL of sample solution of the same concentration to both the sample tube and the sample background. Add 0.5 mL of enzyme preparation to each of the sample tube, sample blank, enzyme reaction tube, and enzyme blank. Then add 0.1 mL of testosterone solution to both the sample tube and the enzyme reaction tube. Add 0.1 mL of NADPH solution and 2.0 mL of pH 6.0 phosphate buffer to each of the sample tube, sample blank, enzyme reaction tube, and enzyme blank. Incubate at 37°C for 1 h. After incubation, add pH 6.0 phosphate buffer to each of the sample tube, sample blank, enzyme reaction tube, and enzyme blank, bringing the volume to 5 mL. Centrifuge at 12000 rpm for 5 min, collect the supernatant, and filter through a 0.45 μm filter. Transfer each reaction solution to a 1 cm cuvette and measure the absorbance ΔA at 340 nm.

[0087] The inhibition rate is calculated using the following formula:

[0088] ;

[0089] Table 4 Results of 5α-reductase activity inhibition rate test

[0090]

[0091] Note: The experiment is valid if the inhibition rate of the positive control sample is above 70%.

[0092] As shown in Table 4, the 5α-reductase inhibition test was performed on the sample. According to the test results, the composition showed a significant inhibitory effect on 5α-reductase compared with the blank group, and the inhibitory effect on 5α-reductase was even better compared with the positive control group (i.e., commercially available salicylic acid facial cleanser).

[0093] 3. Safety / Irritation Testing - Cytotoxicity

[0094] The main functions of the skin barrier are to maintain moisture, resist external stimuli, and prevent pathogen invasion. Keratinocytes are the core living cells that make up the stratum corneum. This experiment mainly evaluates the effect of facial cleansing products on keratinocyte activity and assesses their mildness. Experimental materials included 1M NaOH: 4.0 g of solid sodium hydroxide was weighed and diluted to 100 mL; human keratinocytes (HaCaT). The effective concentrations included the following groups: 5% amino acid cleanser-1, 0.05% amino acid cleanser-1; 5% amino acid cleanser-2, 0.05% amino acid cleanser-2; 5% amino acid cleanser-3, 0.05% amino acid cleanser-3. The blank control group was PBS (phosphate-buffered saline).

[0095] Experimental steps:

[0096] According to 1.0×10 5 HaCaT cells were seeded into 96-well plates and cultured for 24 hours until the cells were stable. Then, different concentrations of amino acid facial cleanser samples were added to the cells and cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2 for 24 hours. After that, the culture medium was discarded, and 90 μL of basic culture medium and 10 μL of CCK8 were added to each well and mixed well. The mixture was then incubated at 37°C for 40 minutes. After incubation, the absorbance was measured at 450 nm.

[0097] Cell viability (%) = (OD of experimental group - OD of blank well) / (OD of blank control group - OD of blank well) 100%. Cell activity <70% indicates that the formulation composition is cytotoxic.

[0098] Experimental results:

[0099] The cytotoxicity test results of the formulation composition are shown in Table 5 below. The results show that the amino acid facial cleanser sample is non-toxic to HaCaT cells.

[0100] Table 5. Cytotoxicity testing of the formulation composition

[0101]

[0102] According to the requirements of China's "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2021 edition), the cytotoxicity test of cosmetic raw materials or finished products must meet the requirement of cell viability ≥70%. The HaCaT cell activity of these three products was all greater than 70%, which can be considered as non-toxic. However, based on the cell activity data, the combination of sodium cocoyl glycinate + capryloyl glycinate + niacinamide + hydrolyzed yeast extract (i.e., amino acid facial cleanser-2) had the highest cell viability, therefore its mildness is considered comparable to the control group. Furthermore, facial cleanser No. 3 (i.e., a commercially available salicylic acid facial cleanser) had lower cell activity, and its mildness was far inferior to the control group.

[0103] In summary, the combination of sodium cocoyl glycinate, capryloyl glycinate, niacinamide, and hydrolyzed yeast extract is gentle and non-irritating when used in facial cleansing products, resulting in better gentleness.

[0104] 4. Comparative test of foam performance between a commercially available acne-removing facial cleanser and an amino acid-based acne-removing facial cleanser.

[0105] Foam height was measured using the Bikerman method. During measurement, gas was passed through a glass frosted filter plate at a specific flow rate. A certain amount of test solution was placed on the filter plate, and the gas formed foam in a container (gradient cylinder) after passing through the filter plate. The foaming properties and stability of this foam were evaluated; specific results can be found in [the table below]. Figure 2 Serial number 1 represents amino acid facial cleanser (experimental group), and serial number 2 represents commercially available amino acid facial cleanser products.

[0106] Experimental results show that, at room temperature, the foaming performance and foam stabilization effect of the amino acid facial cleanser composition are better than those of similar commercially available products, providing consumers with a superior user experience.

[0107] The amino acid facial cleanser composition of this invention uses sodium cocoyl glycinate, capryloyl glycinate, niacinamide, and hydrolyzed yeast extract as core active ingredients. Through a specific ratio, the synergistic effect of each ingredient is achieved, constructing a closed-loop acne intervention system of "cleansing-oil control-antibacterial". The facial cleanser prepared by this composition has the advantages of highly efficient cleansing, significant oil control and acne removal, and gentle and non-irritating properties. It also has excellent foaming performance and a good user experience. At the same time, the formula and preparation process are suitable for the industrial production needs of the cosmetics industry, and have extremely high market promotion value and application prospects.

[0108] Although the present invention has been disclosed above with reference to preferred embodiments, it is not intended to limit the present invention. Anyone skilled in the art can make various modifications and alterations without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of protection of the present invention should be defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A synergistic oil-controlling and acne-reducing amino acid facial cleanser composition, characterized in that, The core active ingredients consist of sodium cocoyl glycinate, capryloyl glycinate, niacinamide, and hydrolyzed yeast extract. The weight percentages of each ingredient are as follows: sodium cocoyl glycinate 5.0wt%-25.0wt%, capryloyl glycinate 0.1wt%-2.0wt%, niacinamide 0.2wt%-5.0wt%, and hydrolyzed yeast extract 0.01wt%-0.5wt%.

2. The amino acid facial cleanser composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The sodium cocoyl glycinate is prepared by a biological method.

3. The amino acid facial cleanser composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight ratio of capryloylglycine to nicotinamide is 1:(1-50).

4. The amino acid facial cleanser composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight ratio of the hydrolyzed yeast extract to capryloyl glycine is 1:(2-200).

5. The amino acid facial cleanser composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The composition further comprises cosmetically acceptable excipients selected from one or more of self-renewing solvents, humectants, thickeners, preservatives, and fragrances.

6. The use of the amino acid facial cleanser composition according to any one of claims 1-5 in the preparation of an oil-controlling and acne-removing facial cleanser.

7. The application according to claim 6, characterized in that, The oil-controlling and acne-reducing facial cleansing cosmetic is a facial cleanser or a facial cleansing mousse.

8. A method for preparing the amino acid facial cleanser composition according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Preparation of Phase A: Weigh and mix polyol humectant, hydrophilic thickener and deionized water, heat and stir to 65-70℃ until the raw materials are completely dissolved to obtain a homogeneous Phase A system. S2. Preparation of AB mixed phase: Take oil-based emulsifier and emulsifier separately and pre-prepare phase B. Heat until the raw materials are completely dissolved, then slowly add them to the phase A system and stir until the system is evenly dispersed to obtain AB mixed phase; S3. Preparation of ABC mixed phase: Take water-soluble plant extract and chelating agent separately and pre-prepare and fully disperse them into phase C. Add phase C to the AB mixed phase and stir until evenly dispersed to obtain the ABC mixed phase. S4. pH Adjustment and Material Combination: Add phase D to the ABC mixture, wherein phase D is a single component or a combination of citric acid, sodium citrate, and arginine, and adjust the pH of the system to weakly acidic; then add phase E, wherein phase E is a mixture of a single component or a mixture of preservatives, fragrances, and moisturizing amino acids with the composition of any one of claims 1-5, and stir until homogeneous; S5. Post-processing: Continue stirring and cool the system to 40-50℃ (e.g., 45℃). After stopping stirring, let it stand and cool naturally to obtain the amino acid facial cleanser.

9. The preparation method according to claim 8, characterized in that, Phase A comprises deionized water, EDTA, glycerin, sodium cocoamphoacetate, PEG-150, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl glutamate, lauroyl sarcosine, and capryloyl glycine; Phase B comprises hexadecyl alcohol, octadecyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, and ethylene glycol distearate; Phase C comprises acrylate copolymer emulsion and water; Phase D comprises triethanolamine or citric acid; and Phase E comprises preservatives, hydrolyzed yeast extract, and nicotinamide.

10. The preparation method according to any one of claims 8-9, characterized in that, The preparation method includes adjusting the weakly acidic pH range of the system to 5.5-6.5, which matches the pH value of human skin surface.

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