Bleaching agents containing percarbonates or perborates and persulfates
A single-component bleaching agent with balanced percarbonates and persulfates reduces hair damage and packaging waste by activating with water, addressing the inefficiencies of traditional hydrogen peroxide-based bleaching methods.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE102017222125
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2017-12-07
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-05
- Estimated Expiration
- 2037-12-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair bleaching agents using hydrogen peroxide and peroxo salts cause significant hair damage and require multiple packaging components, which is environmentally unsustainable and inconvenient for users.
A single-component bleaching agent comprising specific ratios of percarbonates or perborates and persulfates that are activated with water, minimizing hair damage while maintaining bleaching performance, and eliminating the need for separate packaging.
The solution provides effective hair bleaching with reduced damage and minimal packaging waste by using a single-component formulation that activates with water, optimizing hair health and environmental impact.
Abstract
Description
The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to agents for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, which contain percarbonates or perborates, persulfates and water in particular ranges of quantity. The present invention further relates to methods for oxidative color change of the keratin fibers, in which the aforementioned agents are used.Oxidative color change, in particular the bleaching or lightening of its own hair color, has ever been the desire of many consumers, since a bleaching hair color is considered attractive and desirable in fashion. For this purpose, various bleaching agents with different bleaching power are available on the market. The oxidizing agents contained in these products are capable of lightening the hair fiber by oxidative destruction of the hair's own dye melanin and / or artificial dyes. For a moderate bleaching effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide-optionally using ammonia or other alkalinizing agents-as oxidizing agent alone is sufficient, for achieving a stronger bleaching effect, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxo salts, in particular persulfate salts, is usually used.These peroxo salts are usually used in the form of a powder which is mixed with a hydrogen peroxide preparation shortly before use. The use of the combination of hydrogen peroxide and persulfates has various disadvantages. Thus, the application of hydrogen peroxide to the scalp can lead to irritation. In addition, in order to produce the ready-to-use bleaching agent, at least two separately packaged components, the persulfate powder and the hydrogen peroxide solution, must be mixed with one another. The user consuming as lasting as possible is also increasingly paying attention to the ecological aspects of a product. An aim here is also to save packaging material. Products which are used in the most concentrated possible form, which consist only of one component and which, in order to produce the application mixture, have to be mixed in an optimum manner only with water, offer a decisive advantage with regard to the saving of packaging material.Furthermore, the lightening known from the prior art is also associated with damage to the hair, since not only the dyes of the hair but also the remaining structural constituents of the hair are oxidatively damaged. Depending on the degree of damage, it extends from rough, brittle and more difficult to comb out hair to hair breakage via reduced resistance and tear strength of the hair and also splis. The longer the exposure time and the greater the amount of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfates used, the more severe damage is usually caused on the keratin fiber. Finding new bleaching agents with reduced hair damage is therefore likewise a challenge which still exists.It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide agents for oxidative color change which make it possible to blood-stain keratin fibers without the use of hydrogen peroxide solutions. These agents should consist of only one component and the preparation of the ready-to-use agent should be possible by mixing with water. In addition, these agents should damage the hair as little as possible with the greatest possible lightening power.Bleaching agents which consist of a pulverulent component and which, when mixed with water, form the ready-to-use agent are known, for example, from WO 94 / 16672 A1. In this document, percarbonates (in particular sodium percarbonate) are used as the solid hydrogen peroxide source and are used in admixture with persulfates for bleaching the hair.WO 2014 / 029657 A2 describes agents for bleaching keratin fibers which are present in pressed form and comprise a first layer containing at least one persulfate and a second layer containing at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating substance.WO 94 / 16672 A1 teaches that the substances releasing the hydrogen peroxide (i.e. in particular the percarbonates) must be used in very high amounts of 15 to 23 wt % (based on the total weight of the agent). However, when the teaching of WO 94 / 16672 A1 is revised, it has been found that these high amounts of percarbonates used lead to very severe damage to the hair, which damage is no longer acceptable to the user. There has therefore been a search for ways of minimizing the damage to the hair of these agents without thereby impairing their bleaching performance.It has been found that hair damage could be reduced if smaller amounts of percarbonates or perborates were used in the compositions. It was surprising here that, provided the optimum content of percarbonates (or perborates) was selected and the percarbonates (or perborates) were used in certain quantitative ratios in comparison with the persulfates, this reduction of hair damage was possible while fully maintaining the bleaching performance.The present invention first provides an agent for oxidative color change of keratin fibers, comprising - based on its total weight - (a) one or more per compounds from the group of sodium percarbonate, potassium percarbonate, sodium perborate and potassium perborate in a total amount of from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and (b) one or more persulfates from the group of ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount of from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water, characterized in that it comprises3.0 to 12.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and7.0 to 16.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate, and20.0 to 45.0% by weight of potassium persulfate, and1.0 to 6.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.Means for Oxidative Color Change of Keratin FibersThe agents according to the invention are used for oxidative color change of keratin fibers. The term "oxidative color change" used according to the invention is understood to mean bleaching agents and also agents for lightening keratin fibers, which contain the oxidizing agents of groups (a) and (b) (percarbonates / perborates and persulfates). If pure bleaching or lightening is to take place, the compositions contain no further dyes. However, it may also be desirable to make a nuancing of the keratin fibers in addition to the bleaching / lightening. For the purpose of shading, the agents according to the invention can additionally also contain coloring components such as, for example, substantive dyes and / or oxidation dye precursors. The preferred purpose of use of the compositions is, however, bleaching or lightening, and therefore the compositions preferably contain either no dyes or only small amounts of these which are suitable for easy shading.Keratin fibers are understood to mean wool, fur, feathers and, in particular, human hair. The colorants according to the invention can, however, in principle also be used for dyeing other natural fibers, such as, for example, cotton, jute, sisal, linen or silk, modified natural fibers, such as, for example, regenerated cellulose, nitro-, alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl- or acetylcellulose.Percarbonates and perboratesAs the first constituent (a) essential to the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise, based on their total weight, one or more per compounds from the group of sodium percarbonate, potassium percarbonate, sodium perborate and potassium perborate in a total amount of from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, wherein they are characterized in that they comprise from 3.0 to 12.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate.Sodium percarbonate in the context of the present invention is understood to mean the adduct (or complex) of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide having the composition 2 Na 2 CO 3×3 H 2 O 2. Sodium percarbonate forms a white, water-soluble powder which, on contact with water, formally decomposes into sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. The sodium percarbonate according to the invention (2 Na 2 CO 3×3 H 2 O 2) has a molar mass of 314.02 g / mol and has the CAS number 15630-89-4.Sodium percarbonate is commercially available from various suppliers in different degrees of purity. For example, Evonik Degussa offers a sodium percarbonate having a purity of 98.8% by weight. All of the above quantities are based on 100% sodium percarbonate. When sodium percarbonate is used in lower purity grades, the amounts used must be correspondingly converted.Potassium percarbonate in the context of the present invention is understood analogously to mean the adduct (or complex) of potassium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide having the composition 2K 2 CO 3×3H 2 O 2.Sodium perborate is alternatively also referred to as sodium peroxoborate. The sodium perborate in the context of the invention is the commercially available sodium peroxoborate tetrahydrate (sodium perborate tetrahydrate) having the empirical formula (NaBO 3 ·4 H 2 O). Alternatively, the empirical formula NaBO 2 · H 2 O 2 ·3 H 2 O is also found in the literature. Ring-shaped peroxoborates are present in the solid state, having the formula Na 2 B 2( O 2)2( OH) 4 ·6 H 2 O. Sodium perborate tetrahydrate has CAS No. 10486-00-7 and is commercially available from Sigma Aldrich, for example.The use of sodium percarbonate has proven to be particularly well suited for achieving the object according to the invention.The compositions according to the invention comprise the percarbonates and the perborates in a total amount of from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight.The work leading to this invention has shown that a further increase in the amount of percarbonate and perborate beyond 14.0% by weight, although increasing hair damage, does not lead to a further increase in lightening. In this context, it has been found to be particularly preferred to use one or more percarbonates in a total amount of 1.5 to 13.0% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably 4.5 to 11.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 6.0 to 10.0% by weight in the compositions according to the invention. The best lightening performance with comparatively minimal damage to the hair could be obtained if the agents contained the percarbonates (in particular sodium percarbonate) in a total amount of 6.0 to 10.0 wt %.All data in % by weight relate here to the total amount of the percarbonates (sodium percarbonate and / or potassium percarbonate) and perborates (sodium perborate and / or potassium perborate) used in the agent, which is related to the total weight of the agent.In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (a) one or more percarbonates from the group of sodium percarbonate and potassium percarbonate in a total amount of 1.5 to 13.0 wt %, preferably 3.0 to 12.0 wt %, more preferably 4.5 to 11.0 wt % and most particularly preferably 6.0 to 10.0 wt %.The agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (a) 3.0 to 12.0 wt. %, preferably 4.5 to 11.0 wt. % and most preferably 6.0 to 10.0 wt. % sodium percarbonate.Persulfates According to the InventionAs a second constituent (b) essential to the invention, the agents according to the invention contain the persulfates ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount of 5.0 to 60.0% by weight.Ammonium persulfate is alternatively also referred to as ammonium peroxodisulfate and has the empirical formula (NH 4)2 S 2 O 8. Ammonium persulfate has CAS number 7727-54-0.Alternatively, potassium persulfate is also referred to as potassium peroxodisulfate and has the empirical formula K 2 S 2 O 8. Potassium persulfate has CAS number 7727-21-1.Sodium persulfate is alternatively also referred to as sodium peroxodisulfate and has the empirical formula Na 2 S 2 O 8. Sodium persulfate has CAS number 7775-27-1.The persulfates are also preferably used in certain total amounts in the agent according to the invention in order both to optimize lightening performance and to minimize hair damage.In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it - based on its total weight -(b) the persulfates contain ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount of 10.0 to 55.0% by weight, preferably 15.0 to 50.0% by weight, more preferably 20.0 to 48.0% by weight, and most preferably 30.0 to 45.0% by weight.It is particularly preferred if the agent according to the invention contains 9.0 to 14.0% by weight ammonium persulfateIn a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (b) 9.0 to 14.0 wt % ammonium persulfate.It is particularly preferred if the agent according to the invention contains 27.0 to 42.0% by weight of potassium persulfate.In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (b) 27.0 to 42.0 wt % potassium persulfate.It is particularly preferred if the agent according to the invention contains 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it - based on its total weight -(b) 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.Particular preference is given to an agent for oxidative color change of keratin fibers, comprising, based on its total weight(a) 4.5 to 11.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and(b1) 7.0 to 16.0 wt.% ammonium persulfate, and(b2) 20.0 to 45.0% by weight of potassium persulfate; and(b3) 1.0 to 6.0% by weight of sodium persulfate, and(c) less than 10.0 wt% water.Particular preference is given to an agent for oxidative color change of keratin fibers, comprising, based on its total weight(a) from 6.0 to 10.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and(b1) 9.0 to 14.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate, and(b2) 24.0 to 42.0% by weight of potassium persulfate; and(b3) 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of sodium persulfate and(c) less than 10.0 wt% water.Water content of the agentThe agents according to the invention are present in the form of a single component which only has to be mixed with water in order to produce the ready-to-use agent. Mixing with a second, separately packaged preparation can be dispensed with in this way, and packaging material and the costs associated therewith can be saved. When mixed with water, hydrogen peroxide (or "active oxygen") is liberated in situ from the percarbonates (or perborates). Since contact with water converts the composition into its ready-to-use form, the composition itself is essentially anhydrous and thus contains less than 10.0% by weight of water (c). For example, 100 g of a composition according to the invention comprise at most 9.9% by weight (=9.9 g) of water.Various raw materials may contain small amounts of water, for example, when the raw materials are used in the form of an emulsion, contain water of crystallization or contain water as a minor component. When these raw materials are used, smaller amounts of water can thus be entrained into the agents according to the invention. However, it is particularly advantageous to choose the water content as low as possible.Particular preference is given to an agent for oxidative color change of keratin fibers, comprising, based on its total weight, (c) less than 5.0% by weight of water, more preferably less than 2.5% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 1.0% by weight of water and very particularly preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water.In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it - based on its total weight -(c) contains less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.5% by weight, more preferably less than 1.0% by weight and very particularly preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water.A very easy-to-handle form of low-water or water-free formulation that is convenient for the user is to provide the agent in the form of a powder or a paste. The agent is therefore very particularly preferably present in the form of a powder (such as, for example, a bleaching powder) or in the form of a paste (such as, for example, a bleaching paste).In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it is present in the form of a powder or in the form of a paste.In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it is present in the form of a bleaching powder or in the form of a bleaching paste.In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it is present in the form of a bleaching powder.In other words, in a particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a bleaching powder or a bleaching paste, containing-in each case based on the total weight of the powder or the paste(a) one or more percarbonates from the group consisting of sodium percarbonate and potassium percarbonate in a total amount of from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and(b) one or more persulfates selected from the group consisting of ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount of 5.0 to 60.0% by weight; and(c) less than 10.0% by weight of water, characterized in that it comprises3.0 to 12.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and7.0 to 16.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate, and20.0 to 45.0% by weight of potassium persulfate, and1.0 to 6.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.In other words, in a very particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a bleaching powder comprising - in each case based on the total weight of the powder - (a) one or more percarbonates from the group consisting of sodium percarbonate and potassium percarbonate in a total amount of from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and (b) one or more persulfates from the group consisting of ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount of from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water, characterized in that it comprises3.0 to 12.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and7.0 to 16.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate, and20.0 to 45.0% by weight of potassium persulfate, and1.0 to 6.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.The terms "powder" or "powdery" are understood within the scope of the present invention to mean those agents which consist of comminuted solid constituents, wherein the comminution can be achieved by comminution, crushing, grinding or by spray drying or freeze drying. Thus, a powder is a mixture consisting of small, solid particles. Powders can be composed of solid constituents having different grain sizes. It may usually be preferred, however, for the powders to have the most homogeneous possible grain size, in particular in order to facilitate uniform dispersion or dissolution of the powders in water. A preferred powder for the purposes of the present invention has an average particle diameter of at least 20 μm and a BET surface area of from 40 to 400 m 2 / g.The terms "paste" or "paste-like" are understood according to the invention to mean a dosage form which has a viscosity at 20° C. and 1013 mbar in the range from 200,000 to 1,600,000 mPas, preferably 250,000 to 1,400,000 mPas, particularly preferably 300,000 to 1,000,000 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 400,000 to 750,000 mPas. The paste viscosity is preferably determined by means of Brookfield; RVDV II+ instrument; spindle no. 96, 4 revolutions per minute, at 20° C. Unless otherwise stated, all temperature data relate to a pressure of 1013 mbar.Quantities indicatedAs described above, the compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise the constituents (a) and (b) in each case in specific quantity ranges. Component (c) (water) is present on average at most in the maximum amount indicated. All quantities are added to a maximum of 100% by weight.The composition may also contain a large proportion of other ingredients. For example, depending on the amount of (a) and (b) selected, the agents according to the invention can additionally contain fillers, surfactants, fatty substances, oils, care substances, etc., in different quantity ranges. The additional optional components are described in the following sections.Alkalinizing AgentThe composition of the agent according to the invention is preferably such that the ready-to-use agent, which is obtained by mixing with water, has an alkaline pH. The ready-to-use agent preferably has a pH of 8 to 11.5, particularly preferably a pH of 8.5 to 11, exceptionally preferably a pH of 9.0 to 10.5, in each case measured at 20° C.Percarbonates, in particular sodium percarbonate, dissolve in water to form a basic pH. Depending on the total amount of percarbonates used in the agent, the alkaline pH in the ready-to-use agent can therefore already be adjusted by the percarbonates alone.In particular if the percarbonates are used in smaller amounts or if the ready-to-use agent is to have a particularly alkaline pH, it may be advantageous to additionally incorporate a further alkalinizing agent into the agents. Since the agents are preferably formulated in the form of a powder or a paste, particularly suitable alkalinizing agents are solid at room temperature (20° C.).The alkalinizing agents usable in the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of (alkaline earth) metal alkali metal metasilicates, (alkaline earth) metal hydroxides, (alkaline earth) metal phosphates, (alkaline earth) metal hydrogen phosphates and basic amino acids. The alkali metal ions used are preferably lithium, sodium and / or potassium. Magnesium and / or calcium are preferably used as alkaline earth metal ions.Particularly suitable basic amino acids are arginine, histidine and lysine and / or salts thereof. Among the salts of arginine, lysine and histidine which are preferably suitable according to the invention are the ammonium salts, alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts, in particular the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts, and also the halides, in particular the hydrochlorides, and mixtures of these salts. A particularly preferred amino acid salt according to the invention is lysine hydrochloride. The amino acids suitable according to the invention, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine and salts thereof, may also contain water of crystallization.In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises one or more alkalinizing agents from the group of (alkaline earth) silicates, (alkaline earth) metasilicates, (alkaline earth) hydroxides, (alkaline earth) phosphates and (alkaline earth) hydrogen phosphates, (alkaline earth) carbonates and basic amino acids.The amounts used of the alkalinizing agent or agents are selected by the skilled worker depending on the pH which is to be adjusted in the ready-to-use agent.Thus, based on its total weight, the agent can contain one or more alkalinizing agents from the group of (alkaline earth) metal metasilicates, (alkaline earth) metal metasilicates, (alkaline earth) metal hydroxides, (alkaline earth) metal phosphates and (alkaline earth) metal hydrogen phosphates and basic amino acids in a total amount of from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, preferably from 10.0 to 55.0% by weight, more preferably from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight and most preferably from 20.0 to 45.0% by weight.Further ConstituentsThe compositions according to the invention can additionally also comprise further constituents. Thus, the compositions can additionally contain at least one oil, in particular if they are to be formulated as a paste. Preferred oils can be selected from paraffin oil, silicone oil or ester oil and mixtures of these oils.Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from paraffin oils, C 18- C 30- isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, furthermore selected from C 8- C 16- isoparaffins, in particular from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, and also 1,3-di(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane.Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22alkanols. C12-C15alkyl benzoate is particularly preferred.Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated. Preferred alcohol oils are 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides (=tributaries of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8-30- fatty acids. Particularly preferred can be the use of natural oils, e.g. amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate kernel oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, holunderseed oil, Johannesbeersamenöl jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, patenut oil, pecannut oil, The seed oil may be rape seed oil, castor oil, sanddhorn pulp oil, sanddhorn seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, wheatgerm oil, and the liquid portions of the coconut oil and the like. However, synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular capric / caprylic triglycerides, are also preferred.Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic esters of linear or branched C 2- C 10- alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di-(2-hexyldecyl) succinate.Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These preferably include 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and ethylene glycol dioleate.Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C 8-22- alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether. Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C 3-22- alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which may be esterified if desired, for example PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-9 butyl ether, PPG-10 butanediol, PPG-15 stearyl ether and glycereth-7-diisononanoate. Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the C 8- C 22- fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C 2- C 7- hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid, e.g. C 12- C 15- alkyl lactate.Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3-22- alkanols, C 3-22- alkanediols or C 3-22- alkanetriols, e.g. dicaprylyl carbonate, or the esters according to DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.Further cosmetic oils which are suitable according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils, which include, for example, dialkylsiloxanes and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethylcyclotrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.It may be exceptionally preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned oils.Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may comprise one or more thickeners. Preferred thickeners are selected from copolymers of C 2- C 4- alkene and styrene, linear saturated 1-alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, esters of saturated branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having 12 to 24 carbon atoms and saturated branched or unbranched alcohols having 16 to 50 carbon atoms, the esters having a melting point in the range from 50° C. to 110° C., triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C 12-30- fatty acids, the triglycerides having a melting point in the range from 50° C. to 110° C., and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.Copolymers of C2-C4-alkene and styrene preferred according to the invention are selected from copolymers of ethylene / propylene / styrene, copolymers of butylene / ethylene / styrene, copolymers of butylene / propylene / styrene and mixtures of these copolymers.Preferably, the mentioned copolymers of C2-C4-alkene and styrene are not copolymers in which the monomer units are statistically distributed, but block copolymers, particularly preferably diblock copolymers and triblock copolymers. Such block copolymers have "hard" segments of polystyrene and "soft" segments of ethylene / propylene or ethylene / butylene or propylene / butylene. The individual blocks may comprise 10 to 10000, preferably 50 to 5000 and in particular 100 to 500 monomers. Preferred diblock copolymers are styrene-ethylenepropylene (S-EP) and styrene-ethylenebutylene (S-EB); preferred triblock copolymers are styrene-ethylenepropylene-styrene (S-EP-S) and styrene-ethylenebutylene-styrene (S-EB-S). It is particularly preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of diblock and triblock copolymers, mixtures of styrene-ethylenepropylene (S-EP) and styrene-ethylenepropylene-styrene (S-EP-S) having been found to be particularly preferred. Very particularly preferably, the proportion of diblock copolymers is 10 to 90% by weight and the proportion of triblock copolymers is 90 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the polymer mixture.Triglycerides in the context of the present invention are triesters of glycerol, i.e. esters in which all OH groups of glycerol are esterified with acid, in the present case with a saturated and optionally hydroxylated C 12-30- fatty acid.Triglycerides preferred according to the invention of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C 12-30- fatty acids having a melting point in the range from 50° C. to 110° C., which thicken the oil phase, are selected from hardened triglyceride fats, in particular hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin) and glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, particular preference is given to hydrogenated castor oil, obtainable, for example, as commercial product Cutina ® HR.Agents particularly preferred according to the invention may furthermore also comprise at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners, which are preferably selected from polysaccharides which may be chemically and / or physically modified, acrylic acid homo- and copolymers, methacrylic acid homo- and copolymers, itaconic acid homo- and copolymers, and mixtures of these polymers.Acrylic acid homo- and copolymers, methacrylic acid homo- and copolymers, itaconic acid homo- and copolymers suitable as hydrophilic thickeners according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed by the crosslinked and uncrosslinked homo- or copolymers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid and salts and alkyl esters thereof, homo- or copolymers of acrylic acid amides and / or methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylic acid amides and mixtures thereof, copolymers of ethoxylated C1-C6-alkyl esters of methacrylic acid and of sulfonated acrylic acid amides and salts thereof and crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid, of acrylic acid amides and of sulfonated acrylic acid amides and salts thereof. The aforementioned polymers and copolymers may be cross-linked or non-cross-linked. If the aforementioned polymers and copolymers do not have alkyl groups with a chain length of at least 8 carbon atoms, they are preferably crosslinked. If the aforementioned polymers and copolymers have alkyl groups with a chain length of at least 8 carbon atoms, they are preferably uncrosslinked.Examples of polymers preferred as hydrophilic thickeners are, for example, the copolymer known under the INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (trade name: Ariskolex HMB; Clariant), the copolymers known under the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and the crosslinked copolymer known under the INCI name Polyacrylate crosspolymer-11 (trade name: Ariskolex Velvet; Clariant).In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic polymers from the group of the (co)polymers of methacrylic acid and that of the (co)polymers of acrylic acid, in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt. -5, preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.6 to 2.0 wt. % and very particularly preferably 0.75 to 1.5 wt. %.Suitable hydrophilic thickeners are, in particular, compounds from the group of the polysaccharides. Examples which may be mentioned are representatives of celluloses (cellulose itself and derivatives thereof), alginic acids (and corresponding physiologically compatible salts thereof, alginates), agar (with the polysaccharide agarose present in agar agar as the main constituent), starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, dextrans, guar gum and xanthan gum.Suitable cellulose derivatives are methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name cellulose gum) and their physiologically tolerable salts.Anionic polysaccharides such as carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids and xanthan gum are preferably selected from the group of polysaccharides for thickening the agents according to the invention. Carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids and xanthan gum are referred to as anionic polysaccharides in addition to their physiologically tolerable salts in the context of the present invention, since the carboxylic acid groups present in these polysaccharides necessarily dissociate to a greater or lesser extent in water or aqueous formulation, as a result of which anionic carboxylate groups are formed, the number of which increases further with increasing pH. In preferred embodiments, with a view to reliably setting the viscosity and applying it without residue to keratin fibers and the scalp, carboxymethylcellulose (preferably carboxymethylcellulose with the INCI name cellulose gum) is present as hydrophilic thickener. In a preferred embodiment, carboxymethylcellulose may be present as the sole hydrophilic thickener. However, a combination of carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan (preferably xanthan with the INCI name xanthan gum) or of their physiologically tolerable salts is also particularly preferred. The physiologically tolerable salts are understood in particular as the sodium salts, but also the potassium salts, and also magnesium and calcium salts.In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - one or more anionic polysaccharides from the group of carboxymethylcellulose, xanthan (xanthan gum), alginate (alginic) and their physiologically tolerable salts in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.5 to 8.0 wt %, more preferably 0.7 to 6.0 wt % and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt %.Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise anionic, nonionic and cationic zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants.Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono-, dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethylene esters, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and alkyl and / or alkenyl phosphates. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropylbetaine.Amphoteric surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8- C 24- alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylamino butyric acids, N-alkylimino dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylamino propionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids each having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12- C 18- acyl sarcosine.Nonionic surfactants contain, as hydrophilic group, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example, adducts of 4 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols, with fatty acids and with alkyl phenols, each having 8 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as, for example, glycerol monolaurate+20 ethylene oxide, and glycerol monostearate+20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as, for example, the polysorbates (Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 60, Tween 61, Tween 81), adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, and alkyl polyglycosides. Suitable nonionic surfactants are, in particular, C 8- C 22- alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated analogues thereof, and ethylene oxide adducts with saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols each having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mol of fatty alcohol.Further oxidation compositions preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and containing up to 12 glycol ether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, in the molecule.Suitable cationic surfactants are in principle all cationic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing, cationic group, such as a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing, cationizable group, such as an amine group, and furthermore at least one (lipophilically acting) alkyl group having 6 to 30 C atoms or at least one (lipophilically acting) imidazole group or at least one (lipophilically acting) imidazylalkyl group.Agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24-alkyl radical, esterquats and amidoamines with in each case at least one C8-C24-acyl radical, and mixtures thereof. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C8-C24-alkyl radical are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates, such as C8-C24-alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24-dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and C8-C24-trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and also the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91. The alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms.Esterquats are cationic surfactants which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element and furthermore at least one C8-C24-alkyl radical or C8-C24-acyl radical. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanol alkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade names Stepantex ®, Dehyquart ® and Armocare ®. N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulfate, and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of such esterquats.The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines. A compound from this substance group which is particularly suitable according to the invention is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.If not only a pure lightening or bleaching, but at the same time also a nuancing of the keratin fibers is desired, the agents according to the invention can additionally also contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes which are applied directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process for forming the color.For the frosting of unwanted residual colour impressions caused by melanin degradation products, in particular in the reddish or bluish range, particular substantive dyes of the complementary colours are particularly preferably present. Substantive dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Substantive dyes are known as anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes. The substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of from 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the bleaching paste or of the alkalinizing composition (Alk).Preferred anionic substantive dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue. Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted by a quaternary nitrogen group, for example Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) and substantive dyes which contain a heterocycle which has at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are, in particular, nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names HC yellow 2, HC yellow 4, HC yellow 5, HC yellow 6, HC yellow 12, HC orange 1, Disperse orange 3, HC red 1, HC red 3, HC red 10, HC red 11, HC red 13, HC red BN, HC blue 2, HC blue 11, HC blue 12, Disperse blue 3, HC violet 1, Disperse violet 1, Disperse violet 4, Disperse black 9, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picraminic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol. Very particular preference according to the invention is given to a combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92.As a further optional ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one oxidation dye precursor, which is preferably selected from one or more developer components and optionally one or more coupler components.It may be preferred according to the invention to select as developer component at least one compound from the group formed by p-phenylenediamine, p-tolylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-Bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and physiologically acceptable salts thereof.The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one developer component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition. The agents according to the invention preferably contain one or more developer components in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight.Coupler components alone do not form any significant color in the context of oxidative coloring, but always require the presence of developer components. It is therefore preferred according to the invention that when at least one developer component is used, at least one coupler component is additionally used.Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-(diethylamino)phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5-(methylami-no)benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenyl)propane, 2,6-bis-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzene, 2-({3-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methyl resorcinol, 2,5-dimethyl resorcinol, 2-chloro resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, pyrogallol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2-(2-methoxyethyl)amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-(4'-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-Hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline, 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically tolerable salts.The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one coupler component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. The agents according to the invention preferably contain one or more coupler components in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1% by weightMethodA second subject of the present invention is a method for oxidative color change of hair comprising the following steps in the order given(I) Preparation of a ready-to-use agent by mixing an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention with water,(II) applying the ready-to-use agent prepared in step (I) to the hair,(III) Exposure to light and(IV) Rinsing of the composition from the hair.Particularly preferred is a method for lightening or bleaching hair comprising the following steps in the stated order(I) Preparation of a ready-to-use agent by mixing an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention with water,(II) applying the ready-to-use agent prepared in step (I) to the hair,(III) Exposure to light and(IV) Rinsing of the composition from the hair.Within the scope of a particularly well-suited embodiment, for example, the means of the first subject matter of the invention can be provided in a container, a bottle or a can. The dimensions of the container can be selected such that the container is only partially filled and allows further filling with water. How much water must now be added for the production of the ready-to-use agent can be specified, for example, either by a marking on the wall of the container. The application mixtures are prepared by adding the appropriate amount of water and, for example, shaking the container.Within the scope of a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention can also be provided in a sachet, a bag, a can or another storage container. To produce the ready-to-use agent, the user now transfers the sachet (or the like) completely into a bowl, glass or vessel and then adds the recommended amount of water-with shaking or stirring.The mixing ratio of agent according to the invention to water can be, for example, 1:3 (1 part by weight of agent according to the invention to 3 parts by weight of water) to 3:1, preferably 1:2 to 2:1.The ready-to-use mixtures of the agent and water preferably have a viscosity in the range from 3000 to 40000 mPas, preferably 4000 to 30000 mPas, particularly preferably 6000 to 15000 mPas, in each case measured at 20° C. using a Haake cylinder / cylinder viscometer, rotary / measurement system SV I with a cooling time of 5 minutes. In this measuring method, the viscosity value is determined at a shear rate of 1 / 7.2 s. The measurement program operates on the ramp of 0-1 / 60 s. A viscosity in this range allows the ready-to-use agent to be applied well on the one hand and to have such a flow behavior on the other hand that it guarantees a sufficiently long action time for the agent at the site of action on the keratin fibers.The exposure time in step (III) of the process according to the invention is preferably from 5 to 60 min, in particular from 5 to 50 min, particularly preferably from 10 to 45 min. During the period of action of the agents on the fiber, it may be advantageous to assist the color change process by supplying heat. An action phase at room temperature is likewise according to the invention. In particular, the temperature during the exposure time is between 20° C. and 40° C., in particular between 25° C. and 38° C. The compositions give good treatment results even at physiologically tolerable temperatures of below 45° C.After the end of the color change process, all components located on the keratin fibers are rinsed from the hair with water or a surfactant-containing cleaning agent. The cleaning agent used can be, in particular, a commercially available shampoo, wherein the cleaning agent can be dispensed with and the rinsing process can be carried out with tap water if the color-changing agent has a higher surfactant content.What has been stated about the agents according to the invention and agents according to the invention also applies mutatismutatally to the methods according to the invention.Examples1. FormulationsThe following formulations were prepared (unless otherwise stated, the amounts correspond to % by weight).Bleaching PowderAmmonium persulfate10,010,010,010,0Potassium persulfate28,028,028,028,0Sodium persulfate2,02,02,02,0Sodium silicate (molar ratio SiO2 / Na2O=2.65)28,028,028,028,0Methyl methacrylate, methacrylic acid copolymer (Degalan RG S hv, Evonic)1,01,01,01,0Carboxymethylcellulose (Na salt) (Cekol 5000; CP Kelco)1,51,51,51,5Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HR, Ashland)2,52,52,52,5Silica, hydrophilic0,20,20,20,2Polyquaternium-40,30,30,30,3EDTA, tetrasodium salt1,61,61,61,6Sodium percarbonate4,08,016,024,0Magnesium carbonateAD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 ADAD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 ADAD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 ADAD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 ADE = According to the inventionV = Comparison2. ApplicationEach bleaching powder was mixed with water in a ratio of 1:2 (1 part by weight of bleaching powder with 2 parts by weight of water). The ready-to-use bleaching agent obtained in this way was applied in each case to hair strands (Fischerbach & Miller, light brown) and left to act for 45 minutes. The hair strands were then washed out with a commercially available shampoo and water.Each hair strand was measured colorimetrically before and after bleaching (Datcolor spectrophotometer, SF450). The color separation (dE value) was determined from the Lab values obtained in the measurements.3. Bleaching Performancebefore blooding23,756,6410,78-Ex. 1E43,5810,7225,5025,03Ex. 2E43,9111,3826,9326,26Ex. 3V43,3510,1425,1024.52Ex. 4V43,3310,4225,6024,85The L value indicates the brightness of the color (L=0, black; L=100, white). The higher the L-value of the treated strands, the more the strands were blooded.The ΔE value used for the assessment of the color intensity results from the L*a*b* color measurement values as follows: L 0, a 0 and b 0: color measurement values before bleaching L i, a i and b i: color measurement values after bleachingThe ΔE value indicates the color difference that exists between the untreated and treated hair strands. The greater the dE value, the greater the color difference (i.e., color separation) between the unstained and dyed skin and the greater the blood flow rate.4. Measurement of cysteic acid contentTo measure hair damage caused by blood blocking, the cysteic acid value of each treated hair strand was determined by quantitative NIR spectroscopy.The spectra were recorded using a MPA™ FT- NIR spectrometer from Bruker Optik GmbH. The infrared range includes the wave number range of 12500 cm -1 to 4000 cm -1 and is characteristic of harmonic and combination oscillations of, for example, CH, OH and NH groups.The samples were measured using the intetration sphere module at six different sample positions in diffuse reflection. For the analysis of the measured NIR spectra, the wave number range from 7300 cm -1 to 4020 cm -1 was chosen.The NIR spectra of cystine show characteristic absorption bands in the wave number range from 6200 cm -1 to 5500 cm -1. If the hair changes due to greater damage (i.e. the cysteic acid content in the hair increases), this has an effect in the NIR spectrum on the bands characteristic of cysteic acid at 5020 cm -1 to 4020 cm -1. Quantitative evaluation of the NIR spectra was carried out with computer assistance.NIR analytical value [mol of cysteic acid / 100 mol of amino acid]Molar Hydrochloric Acid / 100 Molar Hydrochloric Acid0,81,41,51,81,9Hair strands treated with the agent (E) according to the invention exhibited a reduced cysteic acid value and thus less hair damage compared to comparative formulation (V).
Claims
An agent for oxidative colour change of keratin fibres, containing - based on its total weight - (a) one or more per compounds from the group of sodium percarbonate, potassium percarbonate, sodium perborate and potassium perborate in a total amount of 0.5 to 14.0 wt.%, and (b) one or more persulfates from the group of ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount of 5.0 to 60.0 wt.%, and (c) less than 10.0 wt.% water, characterized in that it contains - 3.0 to 12.0 wt.% sodium percarbonate, and - 7.0 to 16.0 wt.% ammonium persulfate, and - 20.0 to 45.0 wt.% potassium persulfate, and contains from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.Agent according to Claim 1, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (a) 4.5 to 11.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 6.0 to 10.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (b) 9.0 to 14.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (b) 27.0 to 42.0 wt.% of potassium persulfate.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (b) 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - (c) less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.5% by weight, more preferably less than 1.0% by weight and very particularly preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is present in the form of a powder or in the form of a paste, particularly preferably in the form of a powder.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises one or more alkalinizing agents from the group of (alkaline earth) alkali metal silicates, (alkaline earth) alkali metal metasilicates, (alkaline earth) metal hydroxides, (alkaline earth) alkali metal phosphates and (alkaline earth) metal hydrogen phosphates, (alkaline earth) alkali metal carbonates and basic amino acids.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises - based on its total weight - one or more anionic polymers from the group of the (co)polymers of methacrylic acid and the (co)polymers of acrylic acid, in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.-5, preferably from 0.25 to 2.5 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.6 to 2.0 wt.-% and very particularly preferably from 0.75 to 1.5 wt.-%.Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - one or more anionic polysaccharides from the group of carboxymethylcellulose, xanthan (xanthan gum), alginate (alginic), hyaluronic acid and their physiologically tolerable salts in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.7 to 6.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%.A process for oxidative colour change of hair comprising the following steps in the order given (I) preparing a ready-to-use agent by mixing an agent as described in claims 1 to 10 with water, (II) applying the ready-to-use agent prepared in step (I) to the hair, (III) allowing it to act, and (IV) rinsing the agent from the hair.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Transparent hair lightening compositions, kits, and methods of use
US20190000732A1
Keratin fibre bleaching composition in compressed form comprising two layers
WO2014029657A2