METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR COMPLETING THE APPLICATION OF AN ORGANIC SILICON COMPOUND, AN ALKALINER AND A FILM-FORMING POLYMER
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE502019012995
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2018-10-31
- Filing Date
- 2019-08-12
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-20
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-08-12
Description
[0001] The present application relates to a method for treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, which comprises the application of two agents (a) and (b). Agent (a) contains water and has an alkaline pH. Agent (a) is further characterized by its content of at least one organic silicon compound (a1) and at least one alkalizing agent (a2). Agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1).
[0002] A further subject matter of this application is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, which comprises at least three agents (a'), (a") and (b) packaged separately from one another. Agent (a) used in the process described above can be prepared from agents (a') and (a").
[0003] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring experts are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
[0004] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.
[0005] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.
[0006] If the user desires particularly long-lasting color results, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been the only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely eliminated with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative colorants also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair.
[0007] EP 2168633 B1 addresses the problem of creating long-lasting hair colorings using pigments. The document teaches that using a combination of a pigment, an organic silicon compound, a film-forming polymer, and a solvent, it is possible to create hair colorings that are particularly resistant to shampooing.
[0008] In reworking the teaching of EP 2168633 B1, the formulations were replicated. This revealed that the disadvantages of these formulations are their insufficient color intensity and inadequate washfastness. The shampoo fastness of the dyes produced in EP 2168633 B1 therefore still requires improvement.
[0009] The object of the present invention was to provide a coloring system that possesses fastness properties comparable to oxidative coloring. In particular, the color intensities and washfastness should be outstanding, while avoiding the use of the oxidation dye precursors typically used for this purpose. The aim was to find a technology that would enable the coloring compounds known from the prior art (such as pigments and direct dyes) to be fixed to the hair in an extremely permanent manner. Even after multiple washes (such as shampooing), the coloring compounds placed on the keratin materials should not detach from the keratin material.
[0010] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the aforementioned object can be excellently achieved if keratin materials, in particular human hair, are treated or colored using a process comprising the successive application of two agents (a) and (b). The first agent (a) is an aqueous or water-containing agent with an alkaline pH of at least 9.6, which, in addition to at least one organic silicon compound, further contains at least one alkalizing agent. The second agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer.
[0011] A first object of the present invention is a method for treating keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: Application of a water-containing agent (a) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (a) has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains: (a1) at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and / or (II) as defined below, and (a2) at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and application of an agent (b) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (b) contains: (b1) at least one film-forming polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II) as defined below, wherein the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0012] In the work leading to this invention, it was found that the preferably successive application of agents (a) and (b) enables the formation of very stable films on the keratin materials. Without being limited to this theory, it is suspected in this context that the combined application of organic silicon compound (a1) and alkalizing agent (a2) in the water-containing agent (a) initially led to the accelerated formation of a first film on the keratin material. With the application of the second agent (b), a further polymer layer was deposited on this first layer. Compared to an application without alkalizing agent, the multilayer film system produced in this way exhibited improved resistance to external influences. Color-imparting compounds, which can be incorporated into agent (a) and / or agent (b), were permanently fixed to the keratin material in this way.In this way, extremely washfast colorations with good resistance to shampooing were obtained on the keratin material. Process for coloring keratin material
[0013] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
[0014] Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is most preferably understood to mean human hair. Means (a) and (b)
[0015] In the process according to the invention, agents (a) and (b) are applied to the keratinous material, in particular human hair. Agents (a) and (b) are different from each other.
[0016] In other words, a first object of the present invention is a method for treating keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: Application of a water-containing agent (a) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (a) has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains: (a1) at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and / or (II) as defined below, and (a2) at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and application of an agent (b) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (b) contains: (b1) at least one film-forming polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II) as defined below, wherein the two agents (a) and (b) are different from one another and the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes. Medium (a)
[0017] The agent (a) is water-containing, which means that the agent (a) contains the organic silicon compound(s) (a1) and the alkalizing agent(s) (a2) in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. This cosmetic carrier can be liquid, gel-like, or cream-like. For the purpose of hair treatment, in particular hair coloring, such carriers include, for example, creams, emulsions, gels, or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam formulations, or other preparations suitable for application to the hair.
[0018] The cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least 2% by weight of water, based on its weight. More preferably, the water content is above 10% by weight, even more preferably above 20% by weight, and particularly preferably above 40% by weight. The cosmetic carrier can also be aqueous-alcoholic. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic solutions are understood to mean aqueous solutions containing 2 to 70% by weight of a C1-C4 alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The agents according to the invention can additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
[0019] A further characteristic of agent (a) is its alkaline pH of at least 9.6. The pH can be measured, for example, using a glass electrode, which is usually commercially available in the form of a combination electrode. Before measuring the pH, the glass electrodes are usually calibrated with calibration solutions of known pH. For the purposes of the present invention, pH values are understood to be pH values measured at a temperature of 22°C.
[0020] It has been shown that by adjusting the alkaline pH to at least 9.6, particularly resistant films could be created on the keratin materials. Particularly good results were obtained when agent (a) was adjusted to a pH of 9.7 to 11.5, preferably 9.8 to 11.3, more preferably 9.9 to 11.0, and most preferably 10.0 to 10.9.
[0021] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) has a pH of 9.7 to 11.5, preferably of 9.8 to 11.3, more preferably of 9.9 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably of 10.0 to 10.9. Organic silicon compounds from the group of silanes (a1)
[0022] As ingredient (a1) essential to the invention, the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and / or (II): R 1 R 2 NL-Si(OR 3 ) a (R 4 ) b (I), where R 1 , R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, L represents a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, R 4 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a represents an integer from 1 to 3, and b represents the integer 3 - a, (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II), where R 5, R 5', R 5" independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, R 6, R 6` and R 6" independently of one another represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, A, A', A", A‴ and A"" independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, R 7 and R 8 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group,an amino-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (III) - (Aʺʺ)-Si(R 6 ") d "(OR 5 ") c " (III), c, stands for an integer from 1 to 3, d stands for the integer 3 - c, c' stands for an integer from 1 to 3, d' stands for the integer 3 - c', c" stands for an integer from 1 to 3, d" stands for the integer 3 - c", e stands for 0 or 1, f stands for 0 or 1, g stands for 0 or 1, h stands for 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals from e, f, g and h is different from 0. ,
[0023] The substituents R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , R 5 ', R 5 ", R 6 , R 6 ', R 6 ", R 7 , R 8 , L, A, A', A", A‴ and A"" in the compounds of formula (I) and (II) are exemplified below: Examples of a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C 2 -C 6 alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Preferred examples of a Hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups include a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl, a 5-hydroxypentyl, and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of an amino-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group, and the 3-aminopropyl group.The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of a linear divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH 2 -), the ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -), and the butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). The propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C 3 -C 20 alkylene groups are (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-) and (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).
[0024] In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) R 1 R 2 NL-Si(OR 3 ) a (R 4 ) b (I), the radicals R 1 and R 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Most preferably, the radicals R 1 and R 2 both represent a hydrogen atom.
[0025] In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or linker -L-, which represents a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group.
[0026] A divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, meaning that each group L can form two bonds. One bond is from the amino group R1R2N to the linker L, and the second bond is between the linker L and the silicon atom.
[0027] Preferably, -L- represents a linear, divalent (ie, divalent) C 1 -C 20 alkylene group. More preferably, -L- represents a linear divalent C 1 -C 6 alkylene group. More preferably, -L- represents a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). Most preferably, L represents a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
[0028] The linear propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) can alternatively be referred to as propane-1,3-diyl group.
[0029] The organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) R 1 R 2 NL-Si(OR 3 ) a (R 4 ) b (I) according to the invention each carry the silicon-containing group -Si(OR 3 ) a (R 4 ) b at one end.
[0030] In the terminal structural unit -Si(OR 3 ) a (R 4 ) b, the radical R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, and the radical R 4 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Particularly preferably, R 3 and R 4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0031] Here, a represents an integer from 1 to 3, and b represents the integer 3 - a. If a represents the number 3, then b is 0. If a represents the number 2, then b is 1. If a represents the number 1, then b is 2.
[0032] Particularly resistant films could be produced if the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I) in which the radicals R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0033] When using the process according to the invention for dyeing keratin material, dyeings with the best wash fastness properties could be obtained analogously when the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) in which the radicals R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0034] Furthermore, dyeings with the best washfastness properties could be obtained when the agent according to the invention contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) in which the radical a represents the number 3. In this case, the radical b represents the number 0.
[0035] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent (a) used in the process according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I), where R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group and a represents the number 3 and b represents the number 0.
[0036] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I), R 1 R 2 NL-Si(OR 3 ) a (R 4 ) b (I), where R 1 , R 2 both represent a hydrogen atom, and L represents a linear, divalent C 1 -C 6 alkylene group, preferably a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, an ethyl group or a methyl group, R 4 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group, a represents the number 3 and b represents the number 0.
[0037] Organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are - (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilan
[0038] - (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilan
[0039] -1-(3-Aminopropyl)silantriol
[0040] - (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilan
[0041] - (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilan
[0042] -1-(2-Aminoethyl)silantriol
[0043] - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilan
[0044] - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilan
[0045] -1-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)silantriol
[0046] - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilan.
[0047] - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilan und / oder
[0048] -1-(2-Dimethylaminoethyl)silanetriol
[0049]
[0050] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane 1-(3-Aminopropyl)silanetriol (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane 1-(2-Aminoethyl)silanetriol (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane 1-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)silanetriol (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane. (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or 1-(2-Dimethylaminoethyl)silanetriol.
[0051] The above-mentioned organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are commercially available.
[0052] For example, (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
[0053] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (II) (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II).
[0054] The organosilicon compounds of formula (II) according to the invention each carry the silicon-containing groups (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si- and -Si(R 6 ') d -(OR 5 ') c' at their two ends.
[0055] In the middle part of the molecule of formula (II) there are the groups -(A) e - and -[NR 7 -(A')] f - and -[O-(A")] g - and -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -. Each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently of one another represent the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is other than 0. In other words, an organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains at least one group from the group consisting of -(A)- and -[NR 7 -(A')]- and -[O-(A")]- and -[NR 8 -(A‴)]-.
[0056] In the two terminal structural units (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si- and - Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' the radicals R5, R5', R5" independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. The radicals R6, R6' and R6" independently of one another represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0057] Here, c represents an integer from 1 to 3, and d represents the integer 3 - c. If c represents the number 3, then d is 0. If c represents the number 2, then d is 1. If c represents the number 1, then d is 2.
[0058] Similarly, c' represents an integer from 1 to 3, and d' represents the integer 3 - c'. If c' represents the number 3, then d' is 0. If c' represents the number 2, then d' is 1. If c' represents the number 1, then d' is 2.
[0059] Films with the highest stability or dyeings with the best washfastness were obtained when the residues c and c' both represent the number 3. In this case, d and d' both represent the number 0.
[0060] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (II), (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II), where R5 and R5' independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group, c and c' both represent the number 3 and d and d' both represent the number 0.
[0061] If c and c' both represent the number 3 and d and d' both represent the number 0, the organic silicon compounds according to the invention correspond to the formula (IIa) (R 5 O) 3 Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(OR 5 ') 3 (IIa).
[0062] The radicals e, f, g, and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, with at least one of e, f, g, and h being different from zero. The abbreviations e, f, g, and h therefore define which of the groups -(A) e - and -[NR 7 -(A')] f - and -[O-(A")] g - and -[NR a -(A‴)] h - are located in the central part of the organic silicon compound of formula (II).
[0063] In this context, the presence of certain moieties has proven particularly advantageous in increasing washfastness. Particularly good results have been obtained when at least two of the residues e, f, g, and h represent the number 1. Most preferably, e and f both represent the number 1. Furthermore, most preferably, g and h both represent the number 0.
[0064] If e and f both represent the number 1 and g and h both represent the number 0, the organic silicon compounds according to the invention correspond to the formula (IIb) (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A)-[NR 7 -(A')]-Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (IIb).
[0065] The radicals A, A', A", A‴ and Aʺʺ independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group. Preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and A"" independently of one another represent a linear, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group. More preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and A"" independently of one another represent a linear divalent C 1 -C 6 -alkylene group. More preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and A"" independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). Most preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and A"" represent a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
[0066] The divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group may alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, which means that each group A, A', A", A‴ and A"" can form two bonds.
[0067] The linear propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) can alternatively be referred to as propane-1,3-diyl group.
[0068] If the radical f represents the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains a structural group -[NR 7 -(A')]-.
[0069] If the radical h represents the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains a structural group -[NR 8 -(A‴)]-.
[0070] Here, the radicals R 7 and R 8 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, an amino-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a group of the formula (III) - (Aʺʺ)-Si(R 6 ") d "(OR 5 ") c " (III).
[0071] Most preferably, the radicals R7 and R8 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
[0072] If the radical f represents the number 1 and the radical h represents the number 0, the organic silicon compound according to the invention contains the group [NR 7 -(A')], but not the group -[NR 8 -(A‴)]. If the radical R 7 represents a group of formula (III), the agent (a) contains an organic silicon compound with three reactive silane groups.
[0073] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (II), (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II), where e and f both represent the number 1, g and h both represent the number 0, A and A' independently represent a linear, divalent C 1 -C 6 alkylene group and R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
[0074] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II), where e and f both represent the number 1, g and h both represent the number 0, A and A' independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 ), and R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
[0075] Organic silicon compounds of formula (II) which are well suited to solving the problem according to the invention are - 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine
[0076] - 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine
[0077] -N-Methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine
[0078] -N-Methyl-3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine
[0079] - 2-[Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol
[0080] - 2-[Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol
[0081] - 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
[0082] - 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamin
[0083] - N1,N1-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamin,
[0084] - N1,N1-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamin,
[0085] - N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amin
[0086] - N,N-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amin
[0087]
[0088] The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of formula (II) are commercially available. Bis(trimethoxysilylpropyl)amine with CAS number 82985-35-1, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich.
[0089] Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine with CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
[0090] N-Methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine is alternatively known as bis(3-trimethoxysilylpropyl)-N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem.
[0091] 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine with CAS number 18784-74-2 can be purchased from Fluorochem or Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
[0092] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) which is selected from the group consisting of 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine N-methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine N-Methyl-3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine 2-[Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol 2-[Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine N1,N1-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, N1,N1-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine and / or N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine.
[0093] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains, in addition to the organic silicon compound(s) of formula (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (IV) R 9 Si(OR 10 ) k (R 11 ) m (IV), where R 9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group, R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and m represents the integer 3 - k.
[0094] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains, in addition to the organic silicon compound(s) of formula (I) and / or (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (IV) R 9 Si(OR 10 ) k (R 11 ) m (IV), where R 9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group, R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and m represents the integer 3 - k.
[0095] In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R 9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group. This C 1 -C 12 alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched. R 9 preferably represents a linear C 1 -C 8 alkyl group. R 9 preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group, or an n-dodecyl group. R 9 particularly preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, or an n-octyl group.
[0096] In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Particularly preferably, R 10 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0097] In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Particularly preferably, R 11 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0098] Furthermore, k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and m represents the integer 3 - k. If k represents the number 3, then m is 0. If k represents the number 2, then m is 1. If k represents the number 1, then m is 2.
[0099] Particularly stable films, ie dyeings with particularly good washfastness properties, could be obtained when an agent (a) was used in the process which contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in which the radical k stands for the number 3. In this case, the radical m stands for the number 0.
[0100] Organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are - Methyltrimethoxysilane
[0101] - Methyltriethoxysilane
[0102] - Ethyltrimethoxysilane
[0103] - Ethyltriethoxysilane
[0104] - n-hexyltrimethoxysilane
[0105] - n-Hexyltriethoxysilane
[0106] - n-octyltrimethoxysilane
[0107] - n-octyltriethoxysilane
[0108] - n-dodecyltrimethoxysilane and / or
[0109] - n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane.
[0110]
[0111] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (IV) which is selected from the group consisting of Methyltrimethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane Ethyltrimethoxysilane Ethyltriethoxysilane Hexyltrimethoxysilane Hexyltriethoxysilane Octyltrimethoxysilane Octyltriethoxysilane Dodecyltrimethoxysilane and / or Dodecyltriethoxysilane.
[0112] The above-described organic silicon compounds are reactive compounds. In this context, it has been found to be preferable if the agent (a) according to the invention contains one or more organic silicon compounds (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt. %, preferably 1.0 to 15.0 wt. %, and particularly preferably 2.0 to 8.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[0113] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - contains one or more organic silicon compounds (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 15.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 2.0 to 8.0 wt.%.
[0114] To achieve particularly good coloring results, it is particularly advantageous to use the organic silicon compounds of formula (I) and / or (II) in specific amounts in the agent (a). Agent (a) particularly preferably contains—based on the total weight of agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds of formula (I) and / or (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%.
[0115] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - contains one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%.
[0116] Furthermore, it has proven particularly preferred if the organic silicon compound(s) of formula (IV) are also present in the agent (a) in certain amounts. Agent (a) particularly preferably contains—based on the total weight of agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds of formula (IV) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 15.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 4.0 to 9.0 wt.%.
[0117] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - contains one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 15.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 3.2 to 10.0 wt.%.
[0118] In the course of the work leading to this invention, it was found that particularly stable and uniform films could be obtained on the keratin material if the agent (a) contains two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
[0119] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
[0120] In an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that an agent (a) is applied to the keratinic material which contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, and additionally contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV) selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane and ethyltriethoxysilane.
[0121] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - contains: 0.5 to 5.0 wt. % of at least one first organic silicon compound (a1) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, and 3.2 to 10.0 wt. % of at least one second organic silicon compound (a1) which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane and dodecyltriethoxysilane.
[0122] In this embodiment, agent (a) contains one or more organic silicon compounds from a first group in a total amount of 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%. The organic silicon compounds of this first group are selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, and / or (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane.
[0123] In this embodiment, agent (a) contains one or more organic silicon compounds from a second group in a total amount of 3.2 to 10.0 wt.%. The organic silicon compounds of this second group are selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, and / or dodecyltriethoxysilane. Alkalizing agent (a2)
[0124] As ingredient (a2) essential to the invention, the agent (a) contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids.
[0125] It has been found that ammonia exerts a particularly strong influence on the optimization of the oligomerization or polymerization reaction of the organic silicon compounds (a1). Therefore, particularly resistant films could be produced using ammonia. Accordingly, dyeings with the highest color intensity and the best washfastness were achieved when the agent (a) contained ammonia as the alkalizing agent (a2).
[0126] In an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains ammonia as alkalizing agent (a2).
[0127] Good results were also obtained when the agent (a) contained at least one alkanolamine as alkalizing agent (a2).
[0128] The alkanolamines usable in agent (a) can be selected, for example, from the group of primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 alkyl parent structure bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
[0129] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of alkanolamines, which is preferably selected from the group of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
[0130] Good results were also obtained when the agent (a) contained at least one basic amino acid as alkalizing agent (a2).
[0131] An amino acid within the meaning of the invention is an organic compound that contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in its structure. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
[0132] According to the invention, basic amino acids are understood to be amino acids which have an isoelectric point pl of greater than 7.0.
[0133] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L-configuration.
[0134] The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and / or histidine.
[0135] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of basic amino acids, which is preferably selected from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
[0136] Preferred agents (a) according to the invention may also contain alkalizing agent mixtures such as, for example, a mixture of ammonia and alkanolamine or a mixture of ammonia and basic amino acid.
[0137] The alkalizing agents are particularly preferably used in certain combinations: ammonia / 2-aminoethane-1-ol; ammonia / 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol; ammonia / arginine; ammonia / lysine; ammonia / ornithine and / or ammonia / histidine. Although the agents (a) according to the invention are adjusted to pH values in the alkaline range, it may nevertheless be necessary in principle to use acidifying agents in small amounts to fine-tune the desired pH value. Acidifying agents suitable according to the invention are, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, or diluted mineral acids (such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid).
[0138] However, in the course of the work leading to this invention, it has been found that the presence of the alkalizing agent or the adjustment of the alkaline pH is essential for the formation of resistant films on the keratin material. The presence of excessive amounts of acids can have a negative impact on the strength of the films. For this reason, it has proven preferable to keep the amounts of acids used in agent (a) as low as possible. For this reason, it is advantageous if the total amount of organic and / or inorganic acids contained in agent (a) does not exceed a certain value.
[0139] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the total amount of the organic acids from the group consisting of citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and lactic acid contained in the agent (a) is below 1.0% by weight, preferably below 0.7% by weight, more preferably below 0.5% by weight, even more preferably below 0.1% by weight and most preferably below 0.01% by weight.
[0140] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the total amount of the inorganic acids from the group consisting of hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid contained in the agent (a) is below 1.0% by weight, preferably below 0.7% by weight, more preferably below 0.5% by weight, even more preferably below 0.1% by weight and most preferably below 0.01% by weight.
[0141] The previously stated maximum total amounts of acids contained in agent (a) are always based on the total weight of agent (a). Medium (b)
[0142] The method according to the invention for treating keratin material comprises, in addition to the application of agent (a), also the application of agent (b). Agent (b) is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1) comprising at least one structural unit of formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II), as defined below.
[0143] Polymers are understood to mean macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units.
[0144] The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol, and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
[0145] For the purposes of the invention, a film-forming polymer is understood to be a polymer capable of forming a film on a substrate, for example, on a keratinous material or a keratinous fiber. The formation of a film can be demonstrated, for example, by observing the keratinous material treated with the polymer under a microscope.
[0146] This contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1) ,which comprises at least one structural unit of formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II) where M represents a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH 4 ), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium.
[0147] The film-forming polymer(s) (b1) according to the invention are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the agent (b) according to the invention. In this context, it has proven particularly preferred for achieving the object of the invention if the agent (b) contains one or more film-forming polymers (b1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt. %, preferably 1.0 to 16.0 wt. %, more preferably 5.0 to 14.5 wt. %, and most preferably 8.0 to 12.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the agent (b).
[0148] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - contains one or more film-forming polymers (b1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 16.0 wt.%, more preferably 5.0 to 14.5 wt.% and most preferably 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%. Agent for coloring keratin material
[0149] Through the previously described application of agent (a), the organic silicon compound (a1), which contains one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule, is first hydrolyzed and / or oligomerized in the presence of water. The resulting hydrolysis products or oligomers have a particularly high affinity for the surface of the keatin material. The presence of the alkalizing agent (a2) in agent (a) accelerates or optimizes this film formation. Following the application of agent (a), agent (b) is then applied, whereby the film-forming polymers (b1) contained in agent (b) are deposited on the keratin material in the form of a second film. The successive application of agents (a) and (b) creates a layered structure of multiple films that is particularly resistant to external influences.
[0150] This multilayer film system is particularly advantageous when coloring keratinous material. Agents (a) and / or (b) therefore additionally contain a colorant from the group of pigments or direct dyes. This creates colored films. The colorant compounds enclosed in these resistant films exhibit extremely good washfastness.
[0151] The term "coloring agent" is used in the context of this invention for the coloring of keratin material, particularly hair, achieved through the use of pigments and / or direct dyes. During this coloring, the coloring compounds are deposited in a particularly homogeneous, uniform, and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material. The film forms in situ through oligomerization or polymerization of the organic silicon compound(s) in an alkaline environment, as well as through the interaction of the organic silicon compound with the coloring compound(s) and the film-forming polymer.
[0152] It has been found to be most preferred if the color-providing compound is contained in agent (a).
[0153] In other words, a method for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps is explicitly preferred: Application of a water-containing agent (a) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (a) has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains: (a1) at least one organic silicon compound as previously defined, and (a2) at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and (a3) at least one coloring compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes, and application of an agent (b) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (b) contains: (b1) at least one film-forming polymer as previously defined.
[0154] In a further embodiment, the invention also provides a method for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: Application of a water-containing agent (a) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (a) has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains: (a1) at least one organic silicon compound as previously defined, and (a2) at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and application of an agent (b) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (b) contains: (b1) at least one film-forming polymer as previously defined, and (b2) at least one color-providing compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes. Colouring compounds from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes
[0155] The process according to the invention is particularly preferably used for coloring keratin material. In this case, agent (a) and / or agent (b)—or a separately formulated third agent (c)—contains at least one colorant compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0156] Pigments in the sense of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
[0157] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
[0158] In a preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or (b) (or a third agent (c)) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
[0159] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.
[0160] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).
[0161] Also particularly preferred color pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the class of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
[0162] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
[0163] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or (b) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
[0164] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (b) at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).
[0165] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.
[0166] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona ®< are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491(lron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,
[0167] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona ®< are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Dioxide), Tin Oxide.
[0168] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ®< are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0169] In a further embodiment, the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) may contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments
[0170] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.
[0171] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0172] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of organic pigments, which is selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0173] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the aforementioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.
[0174] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.
[0175] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agents according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the formed polymer film and, on the other hand, avoids a rough feeling in the hair or skin after application of the cosmetic agent. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably from 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably from 10 to 40 µm, in particular from 14 to 30 µm. The average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
[0176] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.0 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%.
[0177] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.0 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%.
[0178] As color-providing compounds, the agents (a) and / or (b) used in the process according to the invention (or in a separately formulated third agent (c)) may also contain one or more direct dyes. Direct dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.
[0179] The direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L.
[0180] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and non-ionic direct dyes.
[0181] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or non-ionic direct dye as coloring compound (b).
[0182] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or non-ionic direct dye.
[0183] Geeignete kationische direktziehende Farbstoffe sind beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76.
[0184] Non-ionic substantive dyes that can be used include non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Suitable non-ionic substantive dyes are those known under the international designations "Substantive Dyes" and "Substantive Dyes" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
[0185] In the course of the work leading to this invention, it has been found that, in particular, with agents (a) and / or (b) which contain at least one anionic direct dye, colorations with particularly high color intensity can be produced.
[0186] In an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one anionic direct dye.
[0187] Anionic substantive dyes are also known as acid dyes. Acid dyes are understood to be substantive dyes that contain at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H). Depending on the pH, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO 3 H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO -< , -SO 3 -< before). As the pH decreases, the proportion of protonated forms increases. If substantive dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electroneutrality. Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
[0188] The acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L.
[0189] The alkaline earth metal salts (such as calcium and magnesium salts) and aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct dye.
[0190] A key feature of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, with the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this being typically linked to various chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes, and / or indophenol dyes.
[0191] Within the scope of one embodiment, a method for dyeing keratinic material is preferred, which is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one anionic direct dye selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes, wherein the dyes from the aforementioned group each have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), a sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), a sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H), a sodium sulfonate group (-SO 3 Na) and / or a potassium sulfonate group (-SO 3 K).
[0192] As particularly suitable acid dyes, one or more compounds can be selected from the following group, for example: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°: C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (CI 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1;CI 20170;KATSU201;nosodiumsalt;Brown No.201;RESORCIN BROWN;ACID ORANGE 24;Japan Brown 201;D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (C.I.14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Rot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.I.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n° C53, CI 45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine,Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet n° 2, C.I. 60730, COLIPA n° C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blau V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, C.I.Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.I.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.I.42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brillantsäuregrün BS, C.I. 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 und / oder D&C Brown 1.
[0193] The water solubility of anionic direct dyes can be determined, for example, as follows: 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir bar is attached. Then, 100 ml of water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If undissolved residues remain, the amount of water is increased—for example, in 10 ml increments. Water is added until the used amount of dye has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated using a larger amount of water.If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 °C, the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.
[0194] Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25°C).
[0195] Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and sulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 °C).
[0196] Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 °C).
[0197] Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is readily soluble in water at 25 °C.
[0198] Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is greater than 7 g / L (25 °C).
[0199] Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high water solubility of more than 20 wt%.
[0200] Acid Red 33 is the diantrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 °C).
[0201] Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose water solubility is stated to be greater than 10 g / L (25 °C).
[0202] Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl]amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20 wt% (25 °C).
[0203] A particularly preferred method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one direct drawing dye, which is selected from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27,D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.,
[0204] The direct dye(s), in particular the anionic direct dye(s), can be used in various amounts in the respective agent (a) and / or (b) depending on the desired color intensity. Particularly good results have been obtained when the respective agent contains—based on its total weight—one or more direct dye(s) (b) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 6.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%.
[0205] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - contains one or more direct dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.0 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%.
[0206] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - contains one or more direct dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.0 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%. Other ingredients
[0207] The agents (a) and (b) used in the process described above may also contain one or more other optional ingredients.
[0208] The agents may also contain one or more surfactants. Surfactants are surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group; amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge; cationic surfactants, which have a hydrophobic residue and a positively charged hydrophilic group; and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
[0209] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-)<- or -SO3(-)<- group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
[0210] Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H- group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
[0211] Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 - C 18 acylsarcosine.
[0212] The agents may also additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant. Suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide addition products with fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with good properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerin, which have been reacted with at least 2 moles of ethylene oxide, as nonionic surfactants. The nonionic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
[0213] Furthermore, the agents can also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e. surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants are usually composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, with the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge(s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds which may carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms as hydrophobic residues, quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms or tertiary sulfonium salts.
[0214] Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure. In addition to the functional unit carrying the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case with esterquats, for example. The cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45 wt.%, preferably 1 to 30 wt.%, and most preferably 1 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
[0215] Furthermore, the agents according to the invention can also contain at least one anionic surfactant. Anionic surfactants are surface-active agents with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding countercation). Examples of anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
[0216] The anionic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45 wt.%, preferably 1 to 30 wt.% and most preferably 1 to 15 wt.% - based on the total weight of the respective agent.
[0217] The agents may also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as solvents, fatty components such as C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols, C 8 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, C 8 -C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 8 -C 30 fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons; structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides;Protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or, where appropriate, anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; sunscreens and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones, and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax, and paraffins; Swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas, and primary, secondary, and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP, and styrene / acrylamide copolymers;Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.
[0218] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the agent. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent. Process for coloring keratin materials
[0219] In the process according to the invention, agents (a) and (b) are applied to the keratin materials, in particular to human hair. Thus, agents (a) and (b) are the ready-to-use agents. Agents (a) and (b) are different from each other.
[0220] In principle, agents (a) and (b) can be applied simultaneously or successively, with successive application being preferred.
[0221] The best results were obtained when agent (a) was applied to the keratin materials in a first step and then agent (b) was applied in a subsequent step.
[0222] Very particularly preferred is therefore a method for treating keratinic material, in particular for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the given order: in a first step, application of a water-containing agent (a) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (a) has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains: (a1) at least one organic silicon compound as previously defined, and (a2) at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and in a second step, application of an agent (b) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (b) contains: (b1) at least one film-forming polymer as previously defined, characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0223] Agents (a) and (b) are particularly preferably applied within one and the same dyeing process, which means that there is a maximum period of a few hours between the application of agents (a) and (b).
[0224] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that agent (a) is applied first, and then agent (b) is applied, wherein the period between the application of agents (a) and (b) is a maximum of 24 hours, preferably a maximum of 12 hours and particularly preferably a maximum of 6 hours.
[0225] Agent (a) is characterized by its content of water, at least one reactive organic silicon compound (a1), and at least one alkalizing agent (a2). The pH of agent (a) is at least 9.6, which is in the alkaline to strongly alkaline range.
[0226] The reactive organic silicon compound(s) (a1) enters into an oligomerization or polymerization reaction and functionalizes the hair surface as soon as they come into contact with it. This process forms a first film. By adding the alkalizing agent (a2), the oligomerization rate is optimally adapted to the hair treatment process. In the second step of the process, a second, polymer-containing agent (b) is applied to the hair. During the application of agent (b), the film-forming polymers interact with the silane film and are thus bound to the keratin materials. The application properties of the resulting coloring can be further improved by selecting the optimal process conditions.
[0227] Within the scope of a further embodiment, a method comprising the following steps in the given order is particularly preferred (1) applying the agent (a) to the keratinic material, (2) allowing the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (3) optionally rinsing the keratinic material with water, (4) applying the agent (b) to the keratinic material, (5) allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and (6) rinsing the keratinic material with water.
[0228] According to the invention, rinsing the keratin material with water in steps (3) and (6) of the method means that only water is used for the rinsing process, without any further agents other than agents (a) and (b) being used.
[0229] In a step (1), the agent (a) is first applied to the keratin materials, in particular the human hair.
[0230] After application, the agent (a) is allowed to act on the keratin materials. In this context, exposure times of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 20 seconds to 5 minutes, and most preferably 30 seconds to 2 minutes on the hair have proven particularly beneficial.
[0231] In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the agent (a) can now be rinsed out of the keratin materials before the agent (b) is applied to the hair in the subsequent step.
[0232] Dyes with equally good wash fastness were obtained when agent (b) was applied to the keratin materials which were still treated with agent (a).
[0233] In step (4), product (b) is applied to the keratin materials. After application, product (b) is allowed to work on the hair.
[0234] The process according to the invention allows the creation of colorations with particularly good intensity and washfastness, even with a short contact time for the agent (b). Contact times of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 20 seconds to 5 minutes, and most preferably 30 seconds to 3 minutes on the hair have proven particularly advantageous.
[0235] In step (6), the agent (b) (and any remaining agent (a)) is rinsed out of the keratin material with water.
[0236] Within the scope of a further embodiment, a method comprising the following steps in the given order is particularly preferred (1) applying the agent (a) to the keratinic material, (2) allowing the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (3) optionally rinsing the keratinic material with water, (4) applying the agent (b) to the keratinic material, (5) allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and (6) rinsing the keratinic material with water.
[0237] In this embodiment, the sequence of steps (1) to (6) preferably takes place within 24 hours.
[0238] Agent (a) contains the organic silicon compound(s), a class of highly reactive compounds that, as described above, can undergo hydrolysis, oligomerization, and / or polymerization in the presence of water / alkalinizing agents. Due to their high reactivity, these organic silicon compounds form a film on the keratin material.
[0239] In order to avoid premature oligomerization or polymerization, it is of considerable advantage for the user to prepare the ready-to-use agent (a) only shortly before use.
[0240] In a further embodiment, a method is preferred comprising the following steps in the order given (1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a') and a second agent (a"), wherein the first agent (a') contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1), as previously defined, and the second agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, (2) Application of agent (a) to the keratinic material, (3) Allowing agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (4) Optionally rinsing the keratinic material with water, (4) Application of agent (b) to the keratinic material, (5) Allowing agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, (6) Optionally rinsing the keratin material with water.
[0241] In order to provide a formulation that is as stable as possible during storage, the agent (a') itself is preferably formulated with little or no water.
[0242] In a preferred embodiment, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a') - based on the total weight of the agent (a') - contains a water content of 0.001 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably of 0.5 to 9.0 wt.%, more preferably of 1.0 to 8.0 wt.% and most preferably of 1.5 to 7.0 wt.%.
[0243] The agent (a") contains water. In a preferred embodiment, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a") - based on the total weight of the agent (a2) - has a water content of 15 to 100 wt.%, preferably of 35 to 100 wt.%, more preferably of 55 to 100 wt.%, even more preferably of 65 to 100 wt.% and most preferably of 75 to 100 wt.%.
[0244] Within this embodiment, the ready-to-use agent (a) is now prepared by mixing the agents (a') and (a").
[0245] The agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6, which ensures that the ready-to-use agent (a) prepared by mixing the agents (a') and (a") also has a pH of at least 9.6.
[0246] For example, the user can first stir or shake the agent (a'), which contains the organic silicon compound(s) (a1), with the aqueous, alkaline agent (a"). The user can then apply this mixture of (a') and (a") to the keratin materials - either directly after its preparation or after a short reaction time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes. The user can then apply agent (b) as previously described.
[0247] For the purpose of hair coloring, the coloring compound from the group of pigments or direct dyes is incorporated into the agent (a'), into the agent (a") or into the agent (b).
[0248] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a'), the agent (a") and / or the agent (b) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0249] In a further embodiment, a method is preferred comprising the following steps in the order given (1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a') and a second agent (a"), wherein the first agent (a') contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1, as previously defined, and furthermore at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes (a3), and the second agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of ammonia, alkanolamines, and basic amino acids, (2) Application of agent (a) to the keratinous material, (3) Allowing agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (4) Optionally rinsing the keratinous material with water, (4) Application of agent (b) to the keratinous material, (5) Allowing agent (b) to act for a period of 30 Seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes,(6) If necessary, rinse the keratinous material with water.
[0250] In a further embodiment, a method is preferred comprising the following steps in the order given (1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a') and a second agent (a"), wherein the first agent (a') contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1, as previously defined), and the second agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids and furthermore at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes (a3), (2) Application of agent (a) to the keratinous material, (3) Allowing agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (4) Optionally rinsing the keratinous material with water, (4) Application of agent (b) to the keratinous material, (5) Allowing agent (b) to act for a period of 30 Seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes,(6) If necessary, rinse the keratinous material with water.
[0251] In a further embodiment, a method is preferred comprising the following steps in the order given (1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a') and a second agent (a"), wherein the first agent (a') contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) from the group of silanes, as defined above, and the second agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, (2) Application of the agent (a) to the keratinic material, (3) Allowing the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (4) Optionally rinsing the keratinic material with water, (4) Application of the agent (b) to the keratinic material, wherein the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1) and furthermore at least one color-providing compound (b2) from the group of pigments and / or contains direct dyes,(5) Allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, (6) if necessary, rinsing the keratinous material with water.
[0252] Furthermore, it is also possible to package the color-providing compound in a separate, third agent (a‴).
[0253] In the context of this further embodiment, a method is preferred comprising the following steps in the order given (1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a') and a second agent (a") and a third agent (a‴), wherein the first agent (a') contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1, as previously defined), and the second agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and the third agent (a‴) contains at least one color-providing compound (a3) from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes, (2) Application of the agent (a) to the keratinous material, (3) Allowing the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (4) Optionally rinsing the keratinous material with water, (4) Application of the agent (b) to the keratinous material,(5) Allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, (6) if necessary, rinsing the keratinous material with water.
[0254] In the previously described embodiments, the coloring compounds from the group of pigments and direct dyes were named depending on the medium in which they were formulated. When the coloring compounds were formulated in a medium (a) (or (a'), (a"), or (a‴)), they were designated as (a3). When the coloring compounds were formulated in a medium (b), they were designated as (b2). Multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts)
[0255] To increase user convenience, all required resources are preferably provided to the user in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts).
[0256] A second subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for treating keratinic material, comprising separately packaged: a first container with an agent (a'), wherein the agent (a') contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I) and / or (II), and a second container with an agent (a"), wherein the agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and a third container with an agent (b), wherein the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1), wherein the components (a1), (a2) and (b1) were disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.
[0257] The organic silicon compounds (a1) of formula (I) and / or (II) contained in agent (a') of the kit correspond to the organic silicon compounds which were also used in agent (a) of the process described above.
[0258] The alkalizing agents (a2) contained in agent (a") of the kit from the group of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids correspond to the alkalizing agents that were also used in agent (a) of the previously described method.
[0259] The film-forming polymers (b1) contained in agent (b) of the kit correspond to the film-forming polymers that were also used in agent (b) of the previously described process.
[0260] The multi-component packaging unit of the second subject matter of the invention is also used for coloring the keratin material, in particular human hair.
[0261] For this reason, agent (a'), agent (a") and / or agent (b) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0262] The color-providing compounds that can be used in agents (a'), (a") and (b) of the kit again correspond to the color-providing compounds that were disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.
[0263] In this context, it is again possible to package the color-providing compound in a separate, third means (a‴). Within the scope of this further embodiment, the multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) therefore also comprises a third means (a‴) containing at least one color-providing compound.
[0264] Therefore, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for treating keratinic material is also preferred, comprising separately packaged: a first container with an agent (a'), wherein the agent (a') contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of formula (I) and / or (II), and a second container with an agent (a"), wherein the agent (a") has a pH of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and a third container with an agent (a‴), wherein the agent (a‴) contains at least one color-providing compound (a3) from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes, and a fourth container with an agent (b), wherein the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1), wherein components (a1), (a2), (a3) and (b1) are defined in any one of claims 1 to 20.
[0265] Regarding the further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention, mutatis mutantiswhat has been said about the method according to the invention. Examples Example 1
[0266] The following formulations were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all data are in wt.%) Medium (a')
[0267] Medium (a') % by weight (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (a1) 20,0 Methyltrimethoxysilane (a1) 60,0 Phthalocyanine blue pigment CI 74160 (a3) 5,0 Coco-Glucoside 5,0 Water to 100 Medium (a")
[0268] Medium (a") % by weight Ammonia (a2) to pH 10.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1,0 Water to 100
[0269] The ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5.0 g of agent (a') and 20.0 g of agent (a"). The pH of agent (a) was adjusted to a value of 10.5 by further addition of ammonia or lactic acid. Then, agent (a) was allowed to stand for approximately 5 minutes. Medium (b)
[0270] Medium (b) % by weight Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (b1) 25% solution 40,0 Water to 100
[0271] Product (a) was massaged into each strand of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white) and left on for 1 minute. Then, product (a) was rinsed out with water. Then, product (b) was applied to the strand of hair, left on for 1 minute, and then also rinsed out with water.
[0272] An intense blue color with good washfastness was obtained. Example 2
[0273] The following formulations were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all data are in wt.%) Medium (a')
[0274] Medium (a') % by weight (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (a1) 20,0 Methyltrimethoxysilane (a1) 70,0 Water to 100 Medium (a")
[0275] Medium (a") % by weight Ammonia (a2) to pH 10.0 Phthalocyanine blue pigment CI 74160 (a3) 5,0 Coco-Glucoside 5,0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1,0 Water to 100
[0276] The ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5.0 g of agent (a') and 20.0 g of agent (a"). The pH of agent (a) was adjusted to a value of 10.5 by further addition of ammonia or lactic acid. Then, agent (a) was allowed to stand for approximately 5 minutes. Medium (b)
[0277] Medium (b) % by weight Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (b1) 25% solution 40,0 Water to 100
[0278] Product (a) was massaged into each strand of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white) and left on for 1 minute. Then, product (a) was rinsed out with water. Then, product (b) was applied to the strand of hair, left on for 1 minute, and then also rinsed out with water.
[0279] An intense blue color with good washfastness was obtained. Example 3
[0280] The following formulations were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all data are in wt.%) Medium (a')
[0281] Medium (a') % by weight (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (a1) 20,0 Methyltrimethoxysilane (a1) 70,0 Water to 100 Medium (a")
[0282] Medium (a") % by weight Ammonia (a2) to pH 10.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1,0 Water to 100
[0283] The ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5.0 g of agent (a') and 20.0 g of agent (a"). The pH of agent (a) was adjusted to a value of 10.5 by further addition of ammonia or lactic acid. Then, agent (a) was allowed to stand for approximately 5 minutes. Medium (b)
[0284] Medium (b) % by weight Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (b1) 25% solution 40,0 Pigment Yellow 401, CI 11680 2-[(4-Methyl-2-nitro)azo]3-oxo-N-phenylbutyramide (b2) 5,0 Water to 100
[0285] Product (a) was massaged into each strand of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white) and left on for 1 minute. Then, product (a) was rinsed out with water. Then, product (b) was applied to the strand of hair, left on for 1 minute, and then also rinsed out with water.
[0286] An intense yellow color with good washfastness was obtained. Example 4
[0287] The following formulations were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all data are in wt.%) Medium (a')
[0288] Medium (a') % by weight (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (a1) 20,0 Methyltrimethoxysilane (a1) 70,0 Water to 100 Medium (a")
[0289] Medium (a") % by weight Ammonia (a2) to pH 10.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1,0 Water to 100 Middle (a‴)
[0290] Middle (a‴) % by weight Pigment permanent red R CI 12085 1-[(2-chloro-4-nitrophenyl)azo]-2-naphthol (a3) 60,0 PEG-12 Dimethicone 40,0
[0291] The ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5.0 g of agent (a') and 20.0 g of agent (a") and 5.0 g of agent (a‴). The pH of agent (a) was adjusted to 10.5 by further addition of ammonia or lactic acid. Then, agent (a) was allowed to stand for approximately 5 minutes. Medium (b)
[0292] Medium (b) % by weight Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (b1) 25% solution 40,0 Water to 100
[0293] Product (a) was massaged into each strand of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white) and left on for 1 minute. Then, product (a) was rinsed out with water. Then, product (b) was applied to the strand of hair, left on for 1 minute, and then also rinsed out with water.
[0294] An intense red color with good washfastness was obtained.
Claims
1. A method for treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: - applying an aqueous agent (a) to the keratinous material, wherein agent (a) has a pH value of at least 9.6 and contains: (a1) at least one organosilicon compound of formula (I) and / or (II) R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I), where - R1 and R2 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, - L represents a linear or branched divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, - R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a C1-C6 alkyl group, - a represents an integer from 1 to 3, and - b represents the integer 3 - a, and where, in the organosilicon compound of formula (II) (R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A')]f-[O-(A")]g-[NR8-(A‴)]h-Si(R6')d'(OR5')c' (II), - R5, R5', R5", R6, R6' and R6" represent, independently of one another, a C1-C6 alkyl group, - A, A', A", A‴ and Aʺʺ represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, - R7 and R8 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group, an amino C1-C6 alkyl group, or a group of formula (III) - (Aʺʺ)-Si(R6")d"(OR5")c" (III), - c represents an integer from 1 to 3, - d represents the integer 3 - c, - c' represents an integer from 1 to 3, - d' represents the integer 3 - c', - c" represents an integer from 1 to 3, - d" represents the integer 3 - c", - e represents 0 or 1, - f represents 0 or 1, - g represents 0 or 1, - h represents 0 or 1, - with the proviso that at least one of the functional groups e, f, g and h is different from 0, and (a2) at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and - applying an agent (b) to the keratinous material, wherein agent (b) contains: (b1) at least one film-forming polymer containing at least one structural unit of formula (P-I) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II) where M represents a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium, - wherein agent (a) and / or agent (b) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that agent (a) has a pH value of 9.7 to 11.5, preferably of 9.8 to 11.3, more preferably of 9.9 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably of 10.0 to 10.9.
3. The method according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (I) R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I), where - R1 and R2 both represent a hydrogen atom, and - L represents a linear, divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, preferably a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) or an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), - R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a methyl group or an ethyl group, and - a represents the number 3, and - b represents the number 0.
4. The method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (I), selected from the group consisting of - (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane - (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane - (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane - (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane - (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane - (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane - (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and - (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane.
5. The method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (II) (R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A')]f-[O-(A")]g-[NR8-(A‴)]h-Si(R6')d'(OR5')c' (II), where - e and f both represent the number 1, - g and h both represent the number 0, - A and A' represent, independently of one another, a linear, divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, and - R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of formula (III).
6. The method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (II), selected from the group consisting of - 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - N-methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - N-methyl-3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - 2-[bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]ethanol - 2-[bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]ethanol - 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - N1,N1-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, - N1,N1-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, - N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine, and / or - N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine.
7. The method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (IV) R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV), where - R9 represents a C1-C12 alkyl group, - R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, - R11 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, - k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and - m represents the integer 3 - k.
8. The method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (IV), selected from the group consisting of - methyltrimethoxysilane - methyltriethoxysilane - ethyltrimethoxysilane - ethyltriethoxysilane - octyltrimethoxysilane - octyltriethoxysilane - dodecyltrimethoxysilane, and / or - dodecyltriethoxysilane.
9. The method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least two organosilicon compounds (a1) that are structurally different to one another.
10. The method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that agent (a) - based on the total weight of agent (a) - contains: - 0.5 to 5.0 wt.% of at least one first organosilicon compound (a1) selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyltriethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, and - 3.2 to 10.0 wt.% of at least one second organosilicon compound (a1) selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane and dodecyltriethoxysilane.
11. The method according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that agent (a) contains ammonia as the alkalizing agent (a2).
12. The method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group consisting of alkanolamines, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
13. The method according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group of basic amino acids, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
14. The method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the total amount of organic acids from the group consisting of citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and lactic acid contained in agent (a) is below 1.0 wt.%, preferably below 0.7 wt.%, more preferably below 0.5 wt.%, even more preferably below 0.1 wt.% and very particularly preferably below 0.01 wt.%.
15. The method according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that agent (b) - based on the total weight of agent (b) - contains one or more film-forming polymers (b1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably of 1.0 to 16.0 wt.%, more preferably of 5.0 to 14.5 wt.%, and very particularly preferably of 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%.
16. The method according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that agent (a) and / or agent (b) contains at least one inorganic pigment selected from the group consisting of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from mica-based colored pigments which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.
17. The method according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that agent (a) and / or agent (b) contains at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments having the Color Index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
18. The method according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that agent (a) and / or agent (b) contains at least one anionic, non-ionic and / or cationic direct dye.
19. The method according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that agent (a) and / or agent (b) contains at least one anionic direct dye selected from the group consisting of nitrophenylendiamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes, the dyes from the aforementioned group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), a sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), a sulfonic acid group (-SO3H), a sodium sulfonate group (-SO3Na) and / or a potassium sulfonate group (-SO3K).
20. The method according to one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that agent (a) and / or agent (b) contains at least one direct dye selected from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
21. The method according to one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that agent (a) is applied first and then agent (b) is applied, the time period between the application of agents (a) and (b) being at most 24 hours, preferably at most 12 hours, and particularly preferably at most 6 hours.
22. The method according to one of claims 1 to 21, comprising the following steps in the stated sequence (1) producing an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a') and a second agent (a"), - the first agent (a') containing at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (I) and / or (II), and - the second agent (a") having a pH value of at least 9.6 and containing water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, (2) applying agent (a) to the keratinous material, (3) allowing agent (a) to act for a time period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (4) optionally rinsing the keratinous material with water, (4) applying agent (b) to the keratinous material, (5) allowing agent (b) to act for a time period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, (6) optionally rinsing the keratinous material with water, characterized in that agent (a'), agent (a") and / or agent (b) contains at least one coloring compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes.
23. The method according to one of claims 1 to 21, comprising the following steps in the stated sequence (1) producing an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a'), a second agent (a") and a third agent (a‴), wherein - the first agent (a') contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (I) and / or (II), and - the second agent (a") has a pH value of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and - the third agent (a‴) contains at least one coloring compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes (a3), (2) applying agent (a) to the keratinous material, (3) allowing agent (a) to act for a time period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes, (4) optionally rinsing the keratinous material with water, (4) applying agent (b) to the keratinous material, (5) allowing agent (b) to act for a time period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, (6) optionally rinsing the keratinous material with water.
24. A multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for treating keratinous material, comprising, packaged separately from one another: - a first container having an agent (a'), wherein agent (a') contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (I) and / or (II), and - a second container having an agent (a"), wherein agent (a") has a pH value of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and - a third container having an agent (b), wherein agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1) which comprises at least one structural unit of formula (P-I) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II) where M represents a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium, wherein the components (a1), (a2) and (b1) are defined in one of claims 1 to 15, and wherein agent (a'), agent (a") and / or agent (b) contain at least one coloring compound from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes.
25. The multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for treating keratinous material, comprising, packaged separately from one another: - a first container having an agent (a'), wherein agent (a') contains at least one organosilicon compound (a1) of formula (I) and / or (II), and - a second container having an agent (a"), wherein agent (a") has a pH value of at least 9.6 and contains water and at least one alkalizing agent (a2) from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, and - a third container having an agent (a‴), wherein agent (a‴) contains at least one coloring compound (a3) from the group consisting of pigments and / or direct dyes, and - a fourth container having an agent (b), wherein agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b1) which comprises at least one structural unit of formula (P-I) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II) where M represents a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium, and wherein the components (a1), (a2), (a3) and (b1) are defined in one of claims 1 to 20.