Agent for dyeing keratin material with aminosilicone, coloring compound and organic carbon dioxide ester

DE502020012724D1Active Publication Date: 2026-03-12HENKEL KGAA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
DE · DE
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2020-07-13
Publication Date
2026-03-12

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair dyeing methods, particularly oxidative dyes, suffer from poor wash fastness and unpleasant odors, while direct dyes lack durability and gray coverage, necessitating a high-performance alternative that achieves intense, long-lasting color without oxidative dye precursors.

Method used

A composition comprising an amino-functionalized silicone polymer, a coloring compound, and an organic carbonic acid ester is applied to keratinous materials, forming a homogeneous film for durable color deposition.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides intense, long-lasting color with improved wash fastness and gray coverage, eliminating the need for oxidative dye precursors and reducing hair damage.

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Description

[0001] The subject of the present application is a means for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), at least one coloring compound (a2) and at least one organic carbonic acid ester (a3).

[0002] A second subject matter of this application is a method for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, wherein an agent of the first subject matter of the invention is applied to the keratinous material, allowed to act and then washed off again with water.

[0003] Altering the shape and color of keratinous material, especially human hair, is an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the desired color, professionals are familiar with various dyeing systems for changing hair color. For permanent, intense colorations with good colorfastness and gray coverage, oxidative dyes are typically used. These dyes contain oxidative dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which react with oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide to form the actual dyes. Oxidative dyes are characterized by very long-lasting color results.

[0004] When using direct dyes, pre-formed pigments diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, dyes produced with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Dyes made with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes. See, for example, DE 102 05 529 A1 (KPSS KAO GMBH [DE]) August 14, 2003 (2003-08-14).

[0005] The use of color pigments is well-known for temporary color changes to hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are present in the coloring formulation in the form of small particles and are simply deposited on the hair fibers and / or skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed completely after a few washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name "hair mascara."

[0006] If a user desires particularly long-lasting color, the use of oxidative dyes has so far been their only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative dyes also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair. Therefore, the search for alternative, high-performance coloring methods remains a challenge. In particular, the color intensity and wash fastness of dyes based on pigments still require significant improvement.

[0007] The object of the present invention was to provide a dyeing system that achieves color intensities comparable to those of oxidative dyeing, if possible. However, this was to be achieved without the use of the oxidative dye precursors typically employed for this purpose. A technology was sought that would enable the coloring compounds known from the prior art (such as pigments, see, for example, WO 02 / 05759 A1 (COGNIS DEUTSCHLAND GMBH [DE]; CORBELLA ALBERTO [IT] ET AL.) 24 January 2002 (2002-01-24)) to be fixed to the hair in an extremely durable manner. When used in a dyeing process, the agents were intended to produce particularly intense coloring results with good fastness properties. Furthermore, the agents were also intended to provide improved gray coverage.

[0008] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the aforementioned task can be solved excellently if keratinous materials, especially hair, are colored with a substance containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), at least one coloring compound (a2), and at least one organic carbonic acid ester (a3).

[0009] A first object of the present invention is a means for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one colouring compound, and (a3) ​​at least one organic carbonic acid ester.

[0010] In the course of the work carried out for this invention, it has surprisingly been found that the use of an organic carbonate ester (a3) ​​in a composition containing an aminosilicone (a1) and a coloring compound (a2) leads to an improvement in color intensity when this composition is applied in a dyeing process to keratinous material, in particular to human hair. These positive effects were observed especially when the coloring compound (a2) is a pigment. keratinous material

[0011] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.

[0012] The term "keratinous material" preferably refers to human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Human hair is particularly preferred as a keratinous material. dyeing agents

[0013] The term "coloring agent" is used within the scope of this invention to describe the coloring of keratin material, particularly hair, by the use of coloring compounds, especially pigments. In this coloring process, the pigments are deposited as coloring compounds in a particularly homogeneous, uniform, and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material. Amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1)

[0014] The first essential ingredient (a1) of the invention comprises, as defined in the claims, at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer. The amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively also be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.

[0015] Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, comprising repeating organic units.

[0016] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred that the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than 10⁷ < g / mol, preferably not more than 10⁶ < g / mol, and particularly preferably not more than 10⁵ < g / mol.

[0017] Silicone polymers comprise many Si-O repeating units, where the Si atoms can bear organic groups such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups. Therefore, a silicone polymer is also alternatively referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.

[0018] In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeat units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeat units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeat units.

[0019] An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is defined as a functionalized silicone that contains at least one structural unit with an amino group. Preferably, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer contains several structural units, each with at least one amino group. An amino group is defined as a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, or a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and then exist in their cationic form.

[0020] In principle, good results could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) if they contained at least one primary, at least one secondary and / or at least one tertiary amino group. However, the best wash fastness was observed when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) containing at least one secondary amino group was used on average.

[0021] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) with at least one secondary amino group.

[0022] The secondary amino group(s) can be located at various positions within the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Particularly good results were observed when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) was used that possesses at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-Amino).

[0023] In the structural units of the formula (Si-Amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 stand independently for a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group.

[0024] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino), where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group.

[0025] The positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the asterisk may be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the asterisk may be bonded to another silicon atom or to a C1-C6 alkyl group.

[0026] A divalent C1-C20 alkylene group can alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, meaning that each group ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.

[0027] In the case of ALK1, a bond is formed from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and the second bond is formed between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.

[0028] In the case of ALK2, a bond is formed from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 group, and the second bond is formed between ALK2 and the primary amino group.

[0029] Examples of linear divalent C1-C20 alkylene groups are, for example, the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-), and the butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). The propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C20 alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-).

[0030] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the structural units of the formula (Si-Amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), such that the silicone polymer comprises several structural units of the formula (Si-Amino).

[0031] The following is a list of particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) with at least one secondary amino group.

[0032] Dyes with the very best wash fastness could be obtained when the agent according to the invention contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II).

[0033] In a further explicitly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II).

[0034] An example of a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is commercially distributed by the Dow Chemical Company and bears the name "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" and the CAS number 106842-44-8.

[0035] In a further preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula of formula (Si-III), where m and n represent numbers chosen such that the sum (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range of 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range of 1 to 1000, R1, R2 and R3, which may be the same or different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the groups R1 to R3 represents a hydroxy group;

[0036] Another preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula of formula (Si-IV), in the p and q represent numbers chosen such that the sum (p + q) is in the range of 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range of 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range of 1 to 1000, R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the groups R1 to R2 represents a hydroxy group.

[0037] The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping at the silicon atom bearing the nitrogenous group: In formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while in formula (Si-IV) the group is a methyl group. The individual silicon groups, designated with the indices m and n or p and q, do not necessarily exist as blocks; rather, the individual units can also be statistically distributed. That is, in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH3)2 group is necessarily bonded to a -[O-Si(CH3)2] group.

[0038] The compositions according to the invention, which contain at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-V), have also proven to be particularly effective with regard to the desired effects. in the A represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3; D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3; b, n, and c represent integers between 0 and 1000. with the stipulations n > 0 and b + c > 0 at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is satisfied.

[0039] In the above-mentioned formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are statistically distributed, i.e., they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.

[0040] The agent may also contain one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers described by the formula (Si-VI) M(R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2)x (R c SiO (4-c) / 2)y M (Si-VI), where in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon residue with 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar residue of the general formula -R 1< HZ, wherein R 1< is a divalent, connecting group bonded to hydrogen and the residue Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one amino-functional group;"a" takes on values ​​in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values ​​in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50 and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicon end group as known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-restrictive examples of residues represented by R include alkyl residues such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and similar; alkenyl residues such as vinyl, halogenovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and similar;Phenyl groups, benzyl groups, halogenated hydrocarbon groups such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and similar, as well as sulfur-containing groups such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and similar; preferably R is an alkyl group containing 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R 1< include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )C(O)OCH 2 -, -(CH 2 ) 3 CC(O)OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and -(CH 2 ) 3 C(O)SCH 2 CH 2 -.;

[0041] Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group. One possible formula for Z is NH(CH₂)zNH₂, where z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH₂)z(CH₂)zzNH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH₂CH₂NH₂ residue. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH₂)z(CH₂)zzNX₂ or -NX₂, where each X of X₂ is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups with 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

[0042] Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional residue of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 . In the formulas, "a" takes values ​​in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes values ​​in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the RaQbSiO(4-ab) / 2 units to the RcSiO(4-c) / 2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula can differ depending on the different silicone components present in the silicone mixture.

[0043] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII) R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 )n-(OSiG b R' 2- b ) m -O-SiG 3-a -R' a (Si-VII), wherein: G is-H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH3, -CH3, -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)2, -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -O-CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -OC(CH3)3, -C(CH3)3; a represents a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b represents a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably takes values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably takes values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R' is a monovalent residue selected from ∘ -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R") 2 ∘ -QN(R") 2 ∘ -QN +< (R") 3 A -< ∘ -QN +< H(R") 2 A -< ∘ -QN +< H 2 (R")A -< ∘ -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N +< R"H 2 A -< , where each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C(CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C(CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 -, R" represents identical or different residues from the group -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )Ph, the C 1-20 alkyl residues, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 , and A an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

[0044] In a further preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized by the fact that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-Vlla), wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein n preferably takes values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably takes values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

[0045] According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are called Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

[0046] In a further preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-Vllb) containing, wherein R represents -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably takes values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably takes values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

[0047] These amino-functionalized silicone polymers are called Amodimethicone according to the INCI declaration.

[0048] Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain an amino-functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g, and particularly above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and can also be expressed in mg KOH / g.

[0049] Furthermore, agents containing a special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer (a1) are also suitable. This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of formulas (SI-VIII) and (Si-IX).

[0050] .Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.

[0051] One particularly favored amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known as Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer and is commercially available from Wacker in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E.

[0052] For example, a silicone with structural units of formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can be used as a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone. in which R1 represents -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ; R2 represents -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3 .

[0053] Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-XI) in the R1 represents -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ; R2 represents -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3 . B represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3; D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3; a, b, and c represent integers between 0 and 1000 independently of each other, with the stipulation that a + b + c > 0; m and nun represent integers between 1 and 1000 independently of each other, with the stipulation that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled, and the units a, b, c, m, and n are statistically or block-wise distributed in the molecule.

[0054] The structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to illustrate that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to a terminal group B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 or b > 0, and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 and c > 0, meaning that the terminal group B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy group. In formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m, and n are also preferably statistically distributed.

[0055] The silicones used according to the invention, represented by formula (Si-VI), can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on both sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy- and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Silicones particularly preferred within the scope of the present invention are selected from silicones in which B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 3 B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH This means that these silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the hair properties of the hair treated with the inventive agents, and to significantly improved protection during oxidative treatment.

[0056] It has proven particularly advantageous if the composition according to the invention contains the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) (a1) in certain quantity ranges. Particularly good results were obtained when the composition contains – based on the total weight of the composition – a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains – based on the total weight of the composition – one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. colour-giving compounds (a2)

[0057] As a second essential component, the agent according to the invention, as defined in the claims, contains at least one color-imparting compound (a2).

[0058] For the purposes of this invention, color-giving compounds are understood to be pigments.

[0059] For the purposes of this invention, pigments are understood to be coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25 °C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, by the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A magnetic stir bar is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be finely dispersed, the mixture is filtered.If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

[0060] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.

[0061] In a preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-imparting compound (a2) from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.

[0062] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be produced, for example, from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite. Furthermore, black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used as inorganic color pigments.

[0063] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdates. Especially preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510) and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0064] Colored pearlescent pigments are also particularly preferred according to the invention. These are typically mica- and / or micaceous and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

[0065] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly favored pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by changing the thickness of the metal oxide layer(s).

[0066] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or micaceous oxide, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0067] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it (a) contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of pigments selected from mica- or micaceous-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0068] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are available commercially under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.

[0069] Particularly favored color pigments with the trade name Colorona ® include, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491(Iron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,

[0070] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® include, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

[0071] Furthermore, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ®< are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0072] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention can also contain one or more color-imparting compounds (a2) from the group of organic pigments.

[0073] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or color lakes, which may be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindolin, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0074] Particularly suitable organic pigments include, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, and red pigments with the Color Index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0075] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments, preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, and orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0076] The organic pigment can also be a paint lake. For the purposes of this invention, the term "paint lake" refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, wherein the particle-dye unit is insoluble under the aforementioned conditions. These particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates such as aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum itself.

[0077] For example, alizarin lacquer can be used as a colored lacquer.

[0078] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the composition is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. Therefore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the at least one pigment has a mean particle size D50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably of 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably of 10 to 40 µm, and particularly of 14 to 30 µm. The mean particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0079] The coloring compounds (a2), in particular the coloring compounds from the group of pigments, constitute the second essential element of the composition according to the invention and are preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the composition.

[0080] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.

[0081] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that the composition - based on the total weight of the composition - contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%. Organic carbonic acid esters (a3)

[0082] As a third essential ingredient (a3), the compositions according to the invention contain, as defined in the claims, at least one organic carbonic acid ester.

[0083] Organic carbonic acid esters are the esters of carbonic acid, which is unstable in substance. Their general structural formula is R'-OC(=O)-OR", where R' and R" represent either hydrogen or an organic residue, and at least one of the two residues R' and R" represents an organic residue.

[0084] If the residues R' and R" are equal, then the carbonic acid ester (a3) ​​is symmetrical; if R' is not equal to R" the carbonic acid ester (a3) ​​is asymmetrical.

[0085] If the carbonic acid function is unfunctionalized on one side, i.e., if R' or R" represents hydrogen, then a carbonic acid half-ester is present.

[0086] If both residues R' and R" represent an organic residue, then a carbonic acid diester is present.

[0087] The organic carbonic acid esters of the general formula (KSE-I) have shown particularly good suitability for solving the problem according to the invention. where R1,R2 independently represent a C1-C12 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C1-C12 alkyl group or an optionally substituted aryl group.

[0088] Examples of C1-C12 alkyl groups include the methyl group, the ethyl group, the n-propyl group, the isopropyl group, the n-butyl group, the n-pentyl group, the n-hexyl group, the n-octyl group, and the n-dodecyl group. Examples of hydroxy C1-C6 alkyl groups include the hydroxymethyl group, the 2-hydroxyethyl group, and the 3-hydroxypropyl group. Examples of C1-C6 alkoxy groups include the methoxy group and the ethoxy group. Suitable aryl groups include, for example, the phenyl group and the naphthyl group.

[0089] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one organic carbonic acid ester of the general formula (KSE-I) where R1,R2 independently represent a C1-C12 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C1-C12 alkyl group or an optionally substituted aryl group.

[0090] Good effects were obtained when non-cyclic carbonic acid esters (a3) ​​were used in the composition according to the invention.

[0091] Both carbonic acid monoesters and carbonic acid diesters are suitable for use in the composition according to the invention. Compositions suitable according to the invention contain at least one carbonic acid monoester of the formula (KSE-III) R4-OC(O)-OH (KSE-III), in which R4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally substituted C1-C8 alkyl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

[0092] In formula (KE-III), R4 preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl group, wherein hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups, or halogens are preferably suitable as substituents. Further preferred groups R are phenyl and benzyl groups, as well as further substituted representatives. R is particularly preferably a C1-C6 alkyl group. Examples of C1-C6 alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, and hexyl. Suitable compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the group R1 in formula (I) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert -Butyl, hydroxymethyl, and hydroxyethyl residues.

[0093] The acidic hydrogen atom of the carbonic acid monoester can also be present in neutralized form; that is, salts of carbonic acid monoesters can also be used according to the invention. Here, compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain the carbonic acid monoester carbonic acid monoamide in wholly or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of its alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal, or aluminum salt, and particularly in the form of its sodium salt.

[0094] Carbonic acid diesters can be used as further suitable esters of carbonic acid (a3) ​​in the composition according to the invention. Preferred compositions according to the invention therefore contain at least one carbonic acid diester of the formula (KSE-IV) R5-OC(O)-O-R6 (KSE-IV), in which R5 and R6 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted C1-C8 hydrocarbon residue, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

[0095] In formula (KE-IV), R5 and R6 each preferably represent, independently of one another, a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl group, wherein hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups, or halogens are preferably suitable as substituents. Further preferred groups R and R' are phenyl and benzyl groups, as well as further substituted representatives. R and R' are particularly preferably represented by a C1-C6 alkyl group. Examples of C1-C6 alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, iso-pentyl, and hexyl.

[0096] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the residues R5 and R6 in formula (KE-IV) are each independently selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-Butyl, hydroxymethyl, and hydroxyethyl residues. Particularly preferred organic carbonic acid esters (a3) ​​can be selected from the

[0097] Group containing di-(n-octyl carbonate), di(n-hexyl carbonate), di(n-propyl carbonate), dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and diphenyl carbonate.

[0098] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it (a3) ​​contains at least one organic carbonic acid ester from the group consisting of di-(n-octyl carbonate), di(n-hexyl carbonate), di(n-propyl carbonate), dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and diphenyl carbonate.

[0099] Organic carbonic acid esters can also be purchased commercially from common suppliers of fine chemicals, such as Aldrich or Fluka.

[0100] The organic carbonic acid esters (a3) ​​are particularly preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the composition according to the invention.

[0101] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained one or more organic carbonic acid esters (a3) ​​in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt.% and most preferably 4.0 to 8.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0102] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the composition - one or more organic carbonic acid esters (a3) ​​in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt.% and most preferably 4.0 to 8.0 wt.%. Average fat content

[0103] As a further optional component, the composition according to the invention can also contain at least one fat component.

[0104] It has been found that the use of at least one fatty component results in the product being in the form of an emulsion, which has the optimal viscosity and has also proven advantageous in terms of improving color intensity.

[0105] The fat components are hydrophobic substances that can form emulsions in the presence of water by forming micelle systems.

[0106] For the purposes of this invention, "fat components" are defined as organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (22 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%. The definition of fat components explicitly includes only uncharged (i.e., nonionic) compounds. Fat components possess at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fat components is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fat components are neither ethoxylated, nor polyoxyalkylated, nor polyglycerylated compounds.

[0107] The fatty components (a4) contained in the medium are particularly preferred, selected from the group of C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.

[0108] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more fatty components from the group consisting of C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.

[0109] Particularly preferred fat components in this context are those from the group consisting of C12-C24 fatty alcohols, C12-C24 fatty acid triglycerides, C12-C24 fatty acid monoglycerides, C12-C24 fatty acid diglycerides, and / or hydrocarbons. For the purposes of the present invention, only nonionic substances are explicitly considered fat components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered fat components.

[0110] C12-C24 fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0111] Examples of preferred linear saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachiyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).

[0112] Preferred linear unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9 Z )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9 E )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9 Z 12 Z )-Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9 Z 12 Z 15 Z )-Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9 Z )-Eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidone alcohol ((5 Z 8 Z ,11 Z 14 Z )-Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((132)-docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13 E)-Docosen-1-ol).

[0113] The preferred representatives for branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

[0114] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one C 12 - C 24 fatty alcohol, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of Dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), Behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), (9 Z )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9 E )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9 Z 12 Z )-Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9 Z 12 Z 15 Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9 Z )-Eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidone alcohol ((5 Z 8 Z ,11 Z 14 Z )-Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13 Z )-Docos-13-en-1-ol), brassidyl alcohol ((13 E )-Docosen-1-ol), 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

[0115] It has proven to be particularly advantageous to use one or more C12-C24 fatty alcohols in very specific quantity ranges.

[0116] It is particularly preferred if the composition contains one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%, more preferably 4.0 to 20.0 wt.%, even more preferably 5.0 to 15.0 wt.% and most preferably 5.0 to 10.0 wt.%.

[0117] Furthermore, as a suitable fatty component, the composition can also contain at least one C12-C24 fatty acid triglyceride, one C12-C24 fatty acid monoglyceride, and / or one C12-C24 fatty acid diglyceride. For the purposes of the present invention, a C12-C24 fatty acid triglyceride is understood to be the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can participate in the esterification.

[0118] According to the invention, fatty acids are understood to be saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C12-C24 carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In an unsaturated fatty acid, its C12-C24 double bond(s) can have a cis or trans configuration.

[0119] Fatty acid triglycerides are characterized by their particular suitability, in which at least one of the ester groups starting from glycerol is formed with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trienic acid, Elaeostearinic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-Octadeca-9,11,3-trienic acid], Arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-Icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenic acid] and / or Nervonic acid [(15Z)-Tetracos-15-enic acid].

[0120] The fatty acid triglycerides can also be of natural origin. The fatty acid triglycerides or mixtures thereof occurring in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil are particularly suitable for use in the product according to the invention.

[0121] A C12-C24 fatty acid monoglyceride is defined as the monoester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the central hydroxyl group of the glycerol or the terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with the fatty acid.

[0122] C12-C24 fatty acid monoglycerides are characterized by their particular suitability, in which a hydroxyl group of the glycerol is esterified with a fatty acid, the fatty acids being selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearinic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-Octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-Icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0123] A C12-C24 fatty acid diglyceride is defined as the diester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. Either the central and one terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxyl groups of the glycerol can be esterified with one fatty acid each. The glycerol can be esterified with either two structurally identical or two different fatty acids.

[0124] Fatty acid diglycerides are characterized by their particular suitability, in which at least one of the ester groups starting from glycerol is formed with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trienic acid, Elaeostearinic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-Octadeca-9,11,3-trienic acid], Arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-Icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenic acid] and / or Nervonic acid [(15Z)-Tetracos-15-enic acid].

[0125] Particularly good results were obtained when the product contained at least one C12-C24 fatty acid monoglyceride selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent fatty acid from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearinic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-Octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-Icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0126] In a further embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglyceride, which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with an equivalent fatty acid from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid.

[0127] It has proven preferable to use one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid di- and / or C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides in very specific quantity ranges on average.

[0128] With regard to solving the problem according to the invention, it has proven advantageous if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid di- and / or C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.% and most preferably 0.8 to 5.0 wt.%.

[0129] Furthermore, the product may also contain at least one hydrocarbon as a particularly preferred fat component.

[0130] Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms, with 8 to 80 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred in this context are aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., paraffinum liquidum or paraffinum perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (paraffinum solidum), petrolatum, and polydecenes.

[0131] Liquid paraffin oils (paraffinum liquidum and paraffinum perliquidum) have proven particularly suitable in this context. Paraffinum liquidum, also known as white oil, is especially preferred as the hydrocarbon. Paraffinum liquidum is a mixture of purified, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbons, consisting largely of hydrocarbon chains with a carbon chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.

[0132] Particularly good results were obtained when the product contained at least one hydrocarbon selected from the group of mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), petrolatum and polydecenes.

[0133] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one fatty component from the group of hydrocarbons.

[0134] With regard to solving the problem according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly advantageous if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.7 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.9 to 5.0 wt.% and most preferably 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%.

[0135] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains – based on the total weight of the composition – one or more hydrocarbons in a total quantity of 0.5 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.7 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.9 to 5.0 wt.% and most preferably 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%. Surfactants on average

[0136] As a further optional component, the compositions according to the invention can also contain at least one surfactant. To further optimize the formation of the emulsion, it has proven particularly advantageous to also include at least one nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0137] The composition according to the invention therefore particularly preferably contains at least one additional surfactant.

[0138] The term surfactants (T) refers to surface-active substances that form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or can aggregate in bulk phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants, consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group; amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge; cationic surfactants, which have a hydrophobic residue and a positively charged hydrophilic group; and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.

[0139] Non-ionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as their hydrophilic group. Examples of such compounds are... Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers; addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers; addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkyl polypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylphenol polyethers. End-group sealed addition products of 2 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with a methyl or C2-C6 alkyl group,fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the types available under the trade names Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis), C12-C30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of adsorption products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to glycerol, adsorption products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the trade product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol® types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1) R1 CO-(OCH2 CHR2) w OR3 (Tnio-1) in the R1 CO represents a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2< represents hydrogen or methyl, R 3< represents linear or branched alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w represents numbers from 1 to 20. Examples include amine oxides and hydroxyl mixed ethers.as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, sugar fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sugar fatty acid esters, adsorption products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the type of alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides according to formula (E4-II), R*O-[G] p (Tnio-2) where R 4< represents an alkyl or alkenyl group with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar group with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p represents numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose,The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides. The index p in the general formula (Tnio-2) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. While p in a single molecule must always be an integer and can primarily take the values ​​p = 1 to 6, the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity, which usually represents a fraction. Preferably, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used. From an application-related point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and, in particular, between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl residue R 4< can differ from primary alcohols with 4 to 11,preferably derived from 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, and undecyl alcohol, as well as their technical mixtures, such as those obtained, for example, during the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or during the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C8-C10 (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as foreshots during the distillative separation of technical C8-C18 coconut fatty alcohol and may be contaminated with less than 6 wt% C12 alcohol, as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C9 / 11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3), are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl group R 15< can also be derived from primary alcohols with 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol.Elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Preferably, alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C12 / 14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are used. Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (Tnio-3), R5<CO-NR6<-[Z] (Tnio-3) in which R5<CO represents an aliphatic acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R6< represents hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and [Z] represents a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl group with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are well-known substances that are usually produced by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia,Fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides can be obtained by reacting an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester, or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, as represented by the formula (Tnio-4): R 7< CO-(NR 8< ) -CH 2 - [CH(OH)] 4 - CH 2 OH (Tnio-4). Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (Tnio-4), in which R 8< represents hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7< CO represents the acyl group of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid.Behenic acid or erucic acid, or their technical mixtures, are preferred. Particularly preferred are fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (Tnio-4), which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid, or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

[0140] The sugar surfactants in the compositions used according to the invention may preferably be present in amounts of 0.1–20% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.5–15% by weight are preferred, and amounts of 0.5–7.5% by weight are particularly preferred.

[0141] Other typical examples of non-ionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (especially plant-based products based on wheat) and polysorbates.

[0142] Preferred non-ionic surfactants include alkylene oxide adsorption products to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, as well as sugar surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as non-ionic surfactants.

[0143] These compounds are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl group R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear groups and 2-methyl-branched aliphatic groups are preferred. Examples of such alkyl groups are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl, and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, and 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

[0144] The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be a single, homogeneous substance. However, it is generally preferred to start with native plant or animal raw materials for their production, resulting in mixtures of substances with varying alkyl chain lengths, depending on the specific raw material.

[0145] For surfactants that represent addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. A "normal" homolog distribution refers to mixtures of homologs obtained from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides, or alkali metal alkoxides as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides, or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrowed homolog distribution may be preferable.

[0146] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent according to the invention contained at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol with a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 40.

[0147] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one non-ionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from the non-ionic surfactants of formula (TI) wherein Rb represents a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched C 8 -C 24 alkyl group, preferably a saturated, unbranched C 16 - to C 18 alkyl group, and m represents an integer from 10 to 40, preferably an integer from 20 to 35 and particularly preferably the number 30.

[0148] One particularly suitable nonionic surfactant of this type is ceteareth-30. Ceteareth-30 is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, each ethoxylated with 30 units of ethylene oxide. This mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol is referred to as cetearyl alcohol. Ceteareth-30 has the CAS number 68439-49-6 and is available, for example, from BASF under the trade name Eumulgin B3.

[0149] The non-ionic surfactants, in particular the non-ionic surfactants of formula (TI), are preferably used in the appropriate quantity ranges in the composition (b). Thus, the composition (b) can contain – based on the total weight of the composition (b) – one or more non-ionic surfactants in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. Average water content

[0150] The previously described agent is a ready-to-use agent that can be applied to the keratinous material. This ready-to-use agent preferably has a high water content. It has been found that agents containing 50.0 to 98.0 wt.%, preferably 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably 70.0 to 90.0 wt.%, and most preferably 75.0 to 90.0 wt.% water, based on the total weight of the agent, are particularly suitable.

[0151] In a further explicitly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the composition - 50.0 to 98.0 wt.%, preferably 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably 70.0 to 90.0 wt.% and most preferably 75.0 to 90.0 wt.% water. other optional ingredients in the medium

[0152] In addition to the components essential to the invention (a1) to (a3) ​​already described, the agent may also contain further optional ingredients.

[0153] The product may, for example, contain a film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, with polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) being particularly preferred.

[0154] Other suitable film-forming polymers may be selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

[0155] Film-forming polymers, in particular those selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by radical polymerization or natural polymers, have proven to be well suited.

[0156] Other particularly suitable film-forming polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinylamides, the esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid with at least one C1-C20 alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-C10 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0157] Other film-forming polymers may be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl-(meth)acrylate; isononyl-(meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl-(meth)acrylate; lauryl-(meth)acrylate; isopentyl-(meth)acrylate; n-butyl-(meth)acrylate; isobutyl-(meth)acrylate; ethyl-(meth)acrylate; methyl-(meth)acrylate; tert-butyl-(meth)acrylate; stearyl-(meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl-(meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl-(meth)acrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl-(meth)acrylate and / or mixtures thereof.

[0158] Other film-forming polymers may be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl-(meth)acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethyl-acrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide, N-octyl-acrylamide; N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamide.

[0159] Other suitable anionic copolymers include, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C1-C6 alkyl esters, as marketed under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers. A suitable commercial product is, for example, Aculyn®< 33 from Rohm & Haas. However, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C1-C6 alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylene-unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol are also preferred. Suitable ethylene-unsaturated acids include, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols include, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.

[0160] Examples of polymers available on the market include Aculyne 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyne 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer), and Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl), distributed by Rohme and Haas. methacrylate copolymer).

[0161] Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6-)alkyl-pyrrole, vinyl-oxazole, vinyl-thiazole, vinylpyrimidine, and vinylimidazole.

[0162] Also suitable are the copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, such as those commercially marketed under the trade names AMPHOMER ®< or LOVOCRYL ®< 47 by NATIONAL STARCH, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamide marketed under the trade names DERMACRYL ®< LT and DERMACRYL ®< 79 by NATIONAL STARCH.

[0163] Suitable polymers based on olefins include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.

[0164] In another embodiment, block copolymers comprising at least one block of styrene or styrene derivatives can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers. These block copolymers can contain one or more additional blocks besides a styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, or styrene / butadiene. BASF markets such polymers commercially under the trade name "Luvitol HSB".

[0165] While the composition according to the invention can, in principle, contain anionic, cationic, and / or nonionic polymers, it has proven particularly advantageous to omit or omit other ionic compounds. In other words, a particularly strong improvement in color intensity was achieved when the composition had a predominantly nonionic base and therefore contained either no cationic and anionic polymers or only very small amounts. For this reason, it has proven particularly advantageous if the total content of all anionic polymers contained in the composition is below 0.1 wt.%. Furthermore, it has proven particularly advantageous if the total content of all cationic polymers contained in the composition is below 0.1 wt.%. The proportion of cationic or cationic polymers is also significantly lower.The anionic polymer value here refers to the total weight of the product.

[0166] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that - with reference to the total weight of the means - the total content of all anionic polymers contained on average is below 0.1 wt.%, and the total content of all cationic polymers contained on average is below 0.1 wt.%.

[0167] In addition to the previously described nonionic surfactants, the agents can, in principle, also contain one or more charged surfactants. The term surfactants refers to surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants, consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group; amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge; cationic surfactants, which have a hydrophobic residue and a positively charged hydrophilic group; and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.

[0168] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-)< - or -SO 3 (-)< - group in their molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants include the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0169] Ampholytic surfactants are defined as surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

[0170] Examples of ampholytic surfactants are N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 - C 18 - acylsarcosine.

[0171] Furthermore, the products may also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants are defined as surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants typically consist of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, with the hydrophobic part usually comprising a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge(s) being located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants include: quaternary ammonium compounds, which may carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms as hydrophobic residues, quaternary phosphonium salts, substituted with one or more alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms, or tertiary sulfonium salts.

[0172] Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be in the form of an onium structure within a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring). In addition to the functional unit carrying the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case, for example, with esterquats. The cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45 wt.%, preferably 1 to 30 wt.%, and most preferably 1 to 15 wt.% – based on the total weight of the respective agent.

[0173] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can also contain at least one anionic surfactant. Anionic surfactants are defined as surface-active agents with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding countercation). Examples of anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.

[0174] While the composition according to the invention can, in principle, contain anionic, cationic, and / or non-ionic surfactants, it has proven particularly advantageous to avoid using further ionic compounds or to use them only in small quantities. In other words, a particularly strong improvement in color intensity was achieved when the composition had a predominantly non-ionic base and therefore contained either no cationic and anionic surfactants or only very small quantities. For this reason, it has proven particularly advantageous if the total content of all anionic surfactants contained in the composition is below 0.1 wt.%. Furthermore, it has proven particularly advantageous if the total content of all cationic surfactants contained in the composition is below 0.1 wt.%. The proportion of cationic or cationic surfactants is also significantly greater.The anionic surfactant value is based on the total weight of the product.

[0175] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a means according to the invention is characterized in that - with reference to the total weight of the means - the total content of all anionic surfactants contained on average is below 0.1 wt.%, and the total content of all cationic surfactants contained on average is below 0.1 wt.%.

[0176] The products may also contain other active ingredients, excipients, and additives, such as solvents, structuring agents like glucose, maleic acid, and lactic acid; hair-conditioning compounds like phospholipids, for example, lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide, and cyclodextrins; fiber-improving agents, in particular mono-, di-, and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, and lactose; colorants for coloring the product; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamines, zinc omadine, and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or, where applicable, anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; sunscreens and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as bisabolol;Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifying agents such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; and blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂ and air.

[0177] The selection of these additional substances will be made by a person skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the composition. Regarding further optional components and the quantities of these components used, explicit reference is made to the relevant handbooks known to those skilled in the art. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in quantities of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, and in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective composition. pH value of the medium

[0178] The pH of the composition according to the invention is preferably adjusted to a neutral to alkaline pH. Most preferably, the composition has an alkaline pH in the range of 7.0 to 11.5, more preferably 8.0 to 11.0, and most preferably 8.5 to 10.5. Under alkaline conditions, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) can be dissolved or dispersed particularly well and without protonation.

[0179] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a pH value of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably of 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably of 8.5 to 10.5.

[0180] To adjust the desired pH value, the agent may contain at least one alkalizing agent. The pH values ​​referred to in the present invention are pH values ​​measured at a temperature of 22°C.

[0181] The alkalizing agents can include, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids.

[0182] The alkanolamines usable in the composition according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines with a C2-C6 alkyl backbone bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.

[0183] According to the invention, particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol. A particularly preferred embodiment is therefore characterized in that the composition according to the invention contains an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol as an alkalizing agent.

[0184] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid is defined as an organic compound whose structure contains at least one protonable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.

[0185] According to the invention, basic amino acids are understood to be those amino acids which have an isoelectric point pl of greater than 7.0.

[0186] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is especially advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomeric form, usually in the L-configuration.

[0187] The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and / or histidine.

[0188] Furthermore, the composition may contain additional alkalizing agents, in particular inorganic alkalizing agents. Inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate.

[0189] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate.

[0190] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent comprises at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, Contains potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Method for staining keratin material

[0191] The agents described above are ideally suited for use in processes for dyeing keratinous material, especially human hair.

[0192] A second object of the present invention is therefore a method for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) Applying a dye to the keratinous material, wherein the dye is an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, (2) allowing the dye to act on the keratinous material and (3) rinsing the dye with water.

[0193] In step (1) of the method according to the invention, the agent of the first invention is applied to the keratinous material, which is most preferably human hair.

[0194] In step (2) of the inventive method, the agent is then allowed to act on the keratinous material after its application. In this context, various exposure times of, for example, 30 seconds to 60 minutes are conceivable.

[0195] A major advantage of the dyeing system according to the invention is that an intense color result can be achieved even in very short periods of time after short exposure times. For this reason, it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratin material for only relatively short periods of time after application, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.

[0196] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by (2) the action of the dye on the keratinous material for a period of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.

[0197] Following the application of the mixture to the keratin material, it is finally rinsed off with water in step (3) of the procedure.

[0198] In one embodiment, the application mixture can be rinsed off with water alone, i.e., without the use of a post-treatment agent or shampoo. The application of a post-treatment agent or conditioner in step (6) is also conceivable in principle.

[0199] However, to solve the problem according to the invention and to increase ease of use, it has proven to be particularly preferred to rinse the agent in step (3) exclusively with water without the aid of any further after-treatment agent, shampoo or conditioner.

[0200] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by (3) rinsing the dye exclusively with water.

[0201] Regarding the other preferred embodiments of the methods according to the invention, the following applies: mutatis mutantis that which was said about the agent according to the invention. Examples 1. Formulations

[0202] The following formulations were produced (all values, unless otherwise stated, are in wt.%): V1 and E1 are not according to the invention! Dye (V1) (E1) Cetyl alcohol 6,0 6,0 C12-C18 fatty alcohols (Lorol technical) 6,0 6,0 Ceteareth-30 (cetearyl alcohol, ethoxylated 30 EO) 6,0 6,0 Propylene carbonate --- 6,0 Lavanya Zuni (organic pigment, Neelikon Red, 111P0200, CI 12490) 1,0 1,0 Dow Corning 2-8566 (Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" 2,5 2,5 Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 0,20 0,20 Water ad 100 ad 100 2. Application

[0203] After preparation, the respective product (V1 and E1) was applied to hair strands (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white, solution ratio: 1 g of product per g of hair strand). The product was left to act for three minutes. Subsequently, the hair strands were thoroughly rinsed (for one minute) with water, dried, and then colorimetrically measured using a Datacolor Spectraflash 450 colorimeter.

[0204] The dE value used to assess color intensity is derived from the L*a*b* color measurements taken on the respective strand section as follows: dE = L i − L 0 2 + a i − a 0 2 + b i − b 0 1 / 2 L 0 , a 0 and b 0 = measured values ​​of the comparison staining (V1) L i , ai and bi = measured values ​​of the staining according to the invention (E)

[0205] The chromaticity of a color is calculated according to the formula C = a 2 + b 2

[0206] The higher the C value, the greater the hue of a color.

[0207] The L-value indicates the lightness of a color. The lower the L-value, the darker and more intense the color. Medium L a b Chroma C dE for comparison Comparison (V1) 40,55 37,65 8,22 38,54 Invention (E1) 30,84 47,41 15,27 49,80 15,47

[0208] The medium (E1) resulted in darker, more intense colors (lower L value) and higher hue (higher C value).

Claims

1. An agent for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of formula (si-amino), where ALK1 and ALK2 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, and (a2) at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments, and (a3) at least one organic carbonate of general formula (KSE-I) where R1, R2 represent, independently of one another, a C1-C12 alkyl group, a hydroxy C1-C12 alkyl group or an optionally substituted aryl group.

2. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II) 3. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount from 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%.

4. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments, selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from mica-based colored pigments which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.

5. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments, selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100 or CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000 or CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570 or CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370 or CI 71105, and red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

6. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent (a), one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.

7. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one organic carbonate from the group consisting of di-(n-octyl carbonate), di(n-hexyl carbonate), di(n-propyl carbonate), dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and diphenyl carbonate.

8. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more organic carbonates (a3) in a total amount from 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably from 1.0 to 10.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 4.0 to 8.0 wt.%.

9. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains at least one C12-C24 fatty alcohol which is preferably selected from the group consisting of dodecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, arachidyl alcohol, heneicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol, (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol, (9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol, (9Z, 12Z, 15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol, (9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol, (5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol, (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol, (13E)-docosen-1-ol, 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

10. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains at least one non-ionic surfactant which is preferably selected from the non-ionic surfactants of formula (T-I) where Rb represents a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched C8-C24 alkyl group, preferably a saturated, unbranched C16 to C18 alkyl group, and m represents an integer from 10 to 40, preferably an integer from 20 to 35, and particularly preferably the integer 30.

11. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains water and has a pH in the range of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably of 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably of 8.5 to 10.5.

12. A method for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a dyeing agent according to one of claims 1 to 11 to the keratinous material, (2) allowing the dyeing agent to act on the keratinous material, and (3) rinsing out the dyeing agent using water.

13. The method according to claim 12, characterized by (2) allowing the dyeing agent (a) to act on the keratinous material for a period of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably 1 to 5 minutes.