Method of placing and fitting a glass reflector (mirror and / or strass) inside a piece of jewelry when being manufactured
The jewelry making method using a glass reflector or strass within a welded bezel configuration addresses the challenges of securing Rose Cut diamonds, ensuring their clarity and aesthetic appeal, and enhancing their value by allowing easy appraisal and replacement, thus redefining their role in the industry.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2022386058
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-09-02
- Filing Date
- 2022-08-22
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-08-22
AI Technical Summary
The existing method of securing Rose Cut diamonds in jewelry is time-consuming, prone to failure, and risks damaging the diamond's shine and clarity due to air and water exposure, making it difficult to appraise and remove without damaging the jewelry, leading to the underutilization of this type of diamond in jewelry making.
A jewelry making method using a glass reflector or strass with a welded bezel configuration that creates a gap for the reflector or strass, allowing secure fitting and easy removal of diamonds, while maintaining the diamond's clarity and aesthetic appeal, and allowing for easy replacement of worn materials.
Ensures the diamond remains shiny and clear, facilitates easy appraisal and replacement, and allows for color variation without altering the diamond's characteristics, enhancing the diamond's value and usability in jewelry design.
Smart Images

Figure IMGF0001
Abstract
Description
[0001] The invention refers to jewelry making using gemstones and in particular Rose Cut diamonds, the base of which is flat, which means without a cone. When making the piece of jewelry, the artisan and / or the diamond "nailer" creates at first a dent on the jewelry metal exactly in the dimensions of the diamond perimeter) where the diamond shall be secured. Prior to permanently placing the diamond in the dent of the piece of jewelry to be made, the artisan adjusts a thin sheet of aluminum or solder or chasmach at the bottom of the dent, and then secures ("nails") the diamond on the piece of jewelry to be made. This technique is used so that the Rose Cut Diamond due to its flat base (a single cut at its base) acquires glow, shine, clarity as it does not shine, glow and is not clear, it is not "alive" on its own and when placed on a piece of jewelry. Such method of making a piece of jewelry is known from CN107232703A. This document describes a method wherein one rose cut diamond is placed on a frame provided with a metal reflective surface and then fixed by means of fixing claws.
[0002] The application of the specific technique by the special artisan is extremely time-consuming and runs the risk of a high percentage of failure for the perfect and proper making of the piece of jewelry both in technical and aesthetic terms. The reason is that the securing of the diamond must be fully airtight on the piece of jewelry and, in particular on the created dent so that the reflection material under the diamond is protected and is not tainted or spoilt by the air and the water resulting in the diamond losing its shine, glow and clarity provided by the reflection material (aluminum sheet, solder, chahmach). In this technique, in order to secure airtightly the Rose Cut diamond on the piece of jewelry, and in particular exactly in the created dent, the special artisan uses either the metal mass "over" the diamond "zone" or in some cases, the artisan uses a glue in order to get a sealing result. The special artisan is required to repeat this strenuous time-consuming and precarious for the final result procedure for each diamond separately.
[0003] There is no guarantee in this technique that the diamond will be airtightly secured during the jewelry life. Furthermore, if for any reason, a diamond is to be removed from the piece of jewelry, there is the risk of the piece of jewelry being destroyed. There is a big risk of spoiling or destroying the final aesthetic picture of the piece of jewelry in any attempt to remove the diamond and then to secure it again. In addition in this technique, also due to the fact that the diamond zone is covered by the jewelry-dent metal mass, the diamond is very difficult up to impossible to be appraised because the appraiser cannot know accurately and with certainty the size, the dimensions, the depth and the other characteristics , of the gemstone; furthermore, removing the gemstone from the piece of jewelry is discouraged.
[0004] This technique is especially applied for jewelry making in which Rose Cut diamonds are used. It has been almost abandoned for all the above reasons and, as a result, this type of diamonds is misjudged and not used by designers and jewelry makers.
[0005] The purpose of this invention is making jewelry using Rose Cut diamonds and at the same time using a glass reflector (mirror) and / or strass abolishing all the above-mentioned problems and disadvantages; also redefining the true and essential value and "place" of the Rose Cut diamonds in the global jewelry making industry. Further advantages from the application of the specific method in jewelry making: the cleaning and washing of the piece of jewelry using water and common detergent up to 80 °C as frequently as one wishes, since all the materials used in the making can tolerate these cleaning and washing conditions and are not destroyed. Even if a material is worn, for example, if the mirror is destroyed or worn or even if there is some kind of material failure, it can be easily replaced without affecting the structure of the piece of jewelry and its aesthetic perfection. This method is absolutely harmless if the piece of jewelry is gold-plated, platinum-plated or silver-plated. With this method and its technical application, the jewelry maker and designer by using a colored mirror and / or strass can achieve a change in the final visual result in the color of the gemstone and only for aesthetic reasons, as the real diamond characteristics are not modified and in addition, very easily, safely and quickly the gemstone can be removed from the piece of jewelry to be properly and correctly appraised. The piece of jewelry when made using this technique will be shiny, sparkling and clear during its life; furthermore, the diamonds on the piece of jewelry will be exceptionally shiny and sparkling and also clear due to the use of the mirror or strass.
[0006] The solution of these problems and of the disadvantages is achieved according to the invention through the properties mentioned in claim 1. The research and 30-year practical experience in jewelry design and making resulted in the specific jewelry making method using gemstones, Rose Cut diamonds (4). As shown in Figure 1, the piece of jewelry comprises three key parts: the bottom part (frame) (1), the upper part, a combination of welded bezels (2) and a third part the mirror (3). Using the specific configuration of this technical method, a gap is created between the two parts of the piece of jewelry, the bottom (1) and upper part (2), inside which, in particular on the base (5) inside the frame (1), the glass reflector (3), mirror (3) or strass (3) is placed and permanently fitted. Then, at the upper key part, a combination of bezels (2) of the under construction piece of jewelry, the diamonds are secured and fitted with 3 or 4 teeth (5) for each diamond (4). Furthermore, when all the diamonds (4) are fitted at the upper part (2), the last one is fitted on the frame (1) using the same technique of securing a diamond (4) on the bezel, i.e. with "teeth" (5).
Claims
1. Method for making a piece of jewelry by placing and fitting a glass reflector such as a mirror and / or strass (3) inside a piece of jewelry when being manufactured and using Rose Cut diamonds (4), designed in such a way so that a glass reflector (3) can be fitted inside the piece of jewelry, wherein the method comprises the following steps: 1)providing: - a plurality of roses cut diamonds (4) - a frame or bottom part (1) comprising a glass reflector (3) such as a mirror and / or strass having a thickens (8) ranging from 1,5mm to 6mm, permanently fitted inside said frame (1) on the base (6) of said frame (1), covering the entire available surface. - an upper part or top part (2), wich is a combination of joined and welded bezels (7) , wherein the top part is designed in such a way so as to form a single metal piece (2) comprising joined and welded bezels (7) , wherein each bezel (7) used fot the creation of the upper part (2) of the piece of jewelry is designed and made exactly at the dimensions on the jewelry design of each diamond (4) respectively. 2) securing each diamond (4) on its corresponding bezel (7) with three or four first teeth (5) , depending on the jewelry design and the each - time technical requirements; 3) placing and setting of the upper part (2) of the piece of jewelry on the frame (1) by the artisan using four or more second teeth (5) depending on the jewelry design and the technical and making requirements, which are found in the frame (1) to create a single piece with its metal mass as a common body.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
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CN107232703A
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System and method for illuminating articles of adornment
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