Solid cosmetic make-up composition comprising at least one cavity

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for making-up a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one pigment, characterised in that said composition comprises at least one cavity such that the composition has a porosity of greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of the solid composition, as well as to associated production methods.

Description

[0001] Solid cosmetic makeup composition comprising at least one cavity

[0002] The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition dedicated to the makeup of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the lips.

[0003] We already know of solid cosmetic compositions dedicated to the makeup of a keratinous material in the form of sticks (i.e. lipstick, foundation, blush), hot-poured or compacted powders.

[0004] However, such solid makeup compositions, generally anhydrous, do not provide complete satisfaction in terms of deposit homogeneity, comfort, sensoriality, and / or hydration. Indeed, these deposits are generally greasy and / or sticky.

[0005] Furthermore, regarding sticks, their use involves repeated contact between the solid composition and the skin and / or lips, which, for obvious reasons, is unhygienic. Furthermore, the degradation of the sticks and / or their breakage before their total consumption generates waste, and therefore waste.

[0006] Regarding hot-melt products, their packaging often involves a lot of packaging, which is not desirable from an ecological point of view. In particular, hot-melt products generally rely on indirect application via an application device, for example a brush, which requires post-use cleaning, which is cumbersome and unhygienic.

[0007] We already know solid cosmetic compositions dedicated to makeup in single-dose form. However, these compositions include a lot of packaging, and / or have properties that are not entirely satisfactory in terms of grip, ease of application, sensoriality, hydration and / or comfort during application.

[0008] The present invention aims to overcome the aforementioned drawbacks by proposing solid cosmetic makeup compositions, in particular in single-dose form, guaranteeing good grip by the user, direct and comfortable application, and economical in packaging.

[0009] Composition

[0010] The invention thus relates to a solid cosmetic composition for making up a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one pigment, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one cavity such that said composition comprises a porosity greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, better still greater than or equal to 40%, in particular greater than or equal to 50%, or even greater than or equal to 60%, in particular greater than or equal to 70%, and very particularly greater than or equal to 80%, by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

[0011] Thus, a composition according to the invention may remain endowed with a size and / or a volume similar to current solid makeup compositions but differ by the presence of at least one cavity such that the porosity of said composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said composition.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" is intended to denote a composition which, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, is not capable of collapsing under its own weight. Advantageously, it is intended to denote any composition having a compressive strength greater than or equal to 20 g, preferably greater than or equal to 50 g, and better still greater than or equal to 100 g, at room temperature (20-25°C), after penetration by a cylindrical probe of revolution having a diameter of 0.8 cm into the matrix of the composition to a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and removal of said probe from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 0.5 mm / s; the compressive strength being measured with an analyzer of the "LFRA Texture Analyzer" type marketed by the company STEVENS / MECHTRIC.

[0013] A composition according to the invention is not in the form of a paste. A composition according to the invention is not a powdery composition, and is therefore not in the form of a powder. Finally, a composition according to the invention is also not a porous solid derived from the agglomeration of powders. On the other hand, a composition according to the invention may be an expanded composition, and therefore may be in the form of a foam. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is not an expanded composition, and therefore is not in the form of a foam.

[0014] Preferably, a solid composition according to the invention is not coated with a water-soluble coating.

[0015] By "porosity", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant all the voids in a solid material, these voids being able to be filled by fluids, in particular water, when the solid composition is placed in the presence of an aqueous solution, for example water such as tap water.

[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cavity" is understood to mean an empty space inside a solid body and which communicates directly with the external environment, for example like the cavities illustrated in Figures 1 to 3 and 6. A cavity can therefore be designated indifferently by the terms "orifice", "pore" or "hole". Advantageously, the cavity(ies) is / are through, that is to say that the cavity designates an empty space inside a solid body and which communicates directly with the external environment on either side of the solid body.

[0017] Thus, the volume of the cavity(ies) in a solid composition according to the invention represents at least 20%, in particular at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, or even at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, and very particularly at least 80%, of the total volume of said solid composition.

[0018] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention has a density of between 0.2 and 0.8, preferably between 0.3 and 0.7, in particular between 0.4 and 0.6.

[0019] A solid composition according to the invention may have a total volume of between 0.125 cm 3 and 100 cm 3 , preferably between 0.250 cm 3 and 75 cm 3 , especially between 0.5 cm 3 and 50 cm 3 , better between 1 cm 3 and 25 cm 3 , and especially between 2.5 cm 3 and 15 cm 3 .

[0020] A solid composition according to the invention may have a weight of between 0.025 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.25 g and 150 g, in particular between 0.5 g and 100 g, better still between 1 g and 75 g, very particularly between 2.5 g and 50 g, or even between 5 g and 25 g (“g” corresponding to the unit “gram”).

[0021] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention may have a weight of between 0.25 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.50 g and 150 g, in particular between 1 g and 100 g, better still between 2.5 g and 75 g, and very particularly between 5 g and 50 g (“g” corresponding to the unit “gram”).

[0022] According to a first preferred embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention comprises a ratio between the volume of the cavities and the total volume of the composition of between 0.05 and 0.9, preferably between 0.1 and 0.8, in particular between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better still between 0.2 and 0.7, or even between 0.2 and 0.6.

[0023] By "total volume" is meant the volume resulting from the sum of the volume of solid and the volume of the cavities.

[0024] In the context of the present invention, the cavities may be described as macroporosity, i.e. pores whose minimum width, or even diameter, is greater than or equal to 0.5 mm, preferably greater than or equal to 0.75 mm, and in particular greater than or equal to 1 mm, or even between 0.5 mm and 2 cm, very particularly between 1 mm and 2 cm, preferably between 2 mm and 1 cm, in particular between 3 mm and 75 mm, better still between 4 mm and 50 mm, and very particularly between 5 mm and 25 mm. In particular, the pores have a minimum width, or even a diameter, of between 0.5 mm and 5 mm, preferably between 1 mm and 3 mm.

[0025] In this respect, the Applicant indicates that, with equivalent porosity, manufacturing a stable solid composition is:

[0026] - easy in the presence of small cavities, for example those present in solid substrates where the porosity is a consequence of the introduction of a gas during the manufacturing process, like what is described in US 8,349,341, but

[0027] - much more difficult in the presence of macroporosities such as those considered in the present invention.

[0028] The presence of cavities in the contents and / or volumes and / or dimensions considered above makes it possible to access solid compositions that require less raw materials while still having satisfactory gripping properties. A solid composition according to the invention is therefore suitable for a single-dose format, generating no or less loss. This weight saving also has the advantage of allowing less polluting and less expensive transport. A solid composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous both ecologically and economically.

[0029] Furthermore, the inventors observed an unexpected effect in terms of texture and transformative effect when a solid composition according to the invention is placed in the presence of an aqueous phase. Indeed, the inventors observed that a solid composition according to the invention, in contact with an aqueous phase, exhibits faster transformation kinetics between the original solid state to a liquid state, for example of the gel or cream type, compared to a solid composition of the same size and volume but without a cavity. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the presence of cavity(ies) within the solid composition makes it possible to facilitate the transition to a viscous liquid composition, for example when the solid composition is mixed with the hands, or allows an increase in the contact surface with the aqueous phase, in particular water, and therefore better hydration of said solid composition.

[0030] Thus, the invention even makes it possible to adjust the speed at which the solid composition will swell and / or melt, by adjusting the surface area developed at constant volume, by adjusting the percentage of porosity, and more particularly by adjusting the shape and / or the number and / or the dimensions of the cavities, or even the number of walls and / or the thickness of the walls of the cavities.

[0031] Advantageously, the size and / or volume of the cavities can be adjusted to store and / or react the right amount of water necessary to achieve a final liquid composition with satisfactory / expected properties, or even optimized and / or homogeneous properties (i.e. between different single doses), for example in terms of viscosity, hydration, ease of spreading, and / or transformative effect.

[0032] Thus, a composition according to the invention even makes it possible to access evanescent compositions, namely those capable of transforming into liquid compositions, in particular in the form of gels or creams, upon contact with an adequate quantity of water.

[0033] Finally, the inventors observed that the porous structure of a solid composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain deposits on keratin materials which are more homogeneous, even without using application members.

[0034] The solid nature of a composition according to the invention may be based on a phase consisting mainly, or even totally, of a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0035] Preferably, the solid nature of a composition according to the invention is based on the presence of a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

[0037] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a single-dose composition. This embodiment is particularly advantageous from a hygienic point of view in that it avoids repeated contact between the solid composition and the keratin material. This embodiment also allows easy adaptation for the user of the desired shade depending on their state of mind (mood), their clothing style and / or the time of day.

[0038] Thus, the invention also relates to a package comprising several solid compositions according to the invention in the form of single doses of different shades. Thus, the invention relates to a package comprising several solid compositions according to the invention, preferably in the form of single doses, said compositions comprising different pigments and / or pigment contents, and therefore different shades. This package therefore has the advantage of ensuring easy customization of the shade for the user depending on their state of mind (mood), their clothing style and / or the time of day.

[0039] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a topical composition. A composition according to the invention is not an oral composition. A solid composition according to the invention may have any shape, for example a spherical, ellipsoidal, tetrahedral, or even polygonal shape, in particular in the shape of a parallelogram, preferably a right-angled parallelogram.

[0040] Preferably, in particular to ensure good grip, a solid composition according to the invention has:

[0041] - a width, or even a diameter, of between 1 cm and 10 cm, preferably between 2 cm and 8 cm, in particular between 3 cm and 6 cm, and better still between 4 cm and 5 cm; and / or

[0042] - a height (or thickness) between 0.5 cm and 5 cm, preferably between 1 cm and 4 cm, and in particular between 2 cm and 3 cm.

[0043] The cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention may be of any shape, for example round, oblong, ovoid, triangular, polygonal, in particular hexagonal, honeycomb, or in the form of a tiling (or cutting), for example of the Voronoi diagram type, preferably in the form of a honeycomb, as illustrated in figures 3 and 6.

[0044] The cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention may also represent letters or the logo of a brand or company, as illustrated in Figure 2.

[0045] A solid composition according to the invention comprises one or more cavities, preferably several cavities, identical or different.

[0046] According to a first variant, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cavity, in particular a through cavity.

[0047] According to a second preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises several cavities, in particular through cavities, as illustrated in figures 3 and 6.

[0048] The cavities are through, advantageously along an axis x - x'.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least two cavities connected to each other. Such an embodiment is advantageous because it makes it possible to promote capillarity phenomena when brought into contact with water, which makes it possible to improve the aforementioned technical effects.

[0050] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention comprises several cavities which adopt a honeycomb-shaped structure, as illustrated in Figure 3. This honeycomb shape is particularly advantageous in that it allows the manufacture of a solid composition with a very advantageous “volume of the cavity(ies) / total volume of the composition” ratio, in particular greater than or equal to 0.5, or even greater than or equal to 0.75, without prejudice to the gripping and robustness of said composition to the mechanical stresses likely to be applied to it and / or to storage. In other words, this honeycomb structure offers an excellent compromise between cavity volume and mechanical strength.Advantageously, the cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention comprises / comprise walls having a thickness of between 10 μm and 1,500 μm, preferably between 20 μm and 1,000 μm, in particular between 30 μm and 750 μm, very particularly between 50 μm and 500 μm, or even between 100 μm and 400 μm. In particular, the cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention comprises / comprises walls having a thickness of between 250 μm and 500 μm.

[0051] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention comprises several cavities which adopt a honeycomb-shaped structure comprising walls having a thickness of between 10 pm and 600 pm, preferably between 20 pm and 500 pm, in particular between 30 pm and 400 pm, very particularly between 50 pm and 300 pm, or even between 100 pm and 200 pm.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention, in particular when it adopts a honeycomb-type configuration as described above, may comprise a plurality of sections, in particular polygonal sections, each of the sections defining a fracturable perimeter allowing the separation of at least one section from the rest of the solid composition. Thus, according to this embodiment, each section of the solid composition corresponds to a single dose.

[0053] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise additional patterns distinct from the cavities, said patterns being able for example to be produced by embossing.

[0054] According to a first variant, a composition according to the invention is anhydrous. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" is intended to denote a composition which, before any contact with water, comprises a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and in particular less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0055] According to a second variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. Thus, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oily (or fatty) phase which further comprises at least one dispersed aqueous phase, for example in encapsulated form such as for example in the form of matrix spheres (or pearls or beads) or of core / shell type (or capsules), for example in the form of capsules as described in WO2010 / 063937.

[0056] Thus, a solid composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form. According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the dispersed aqueous phase may then be between 0.5% and 50%, preferably between 1% and 40%, in particular between 2.5% and 30%, and better still between 5% and 20%, by weight relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0057] Preferably, the solid nature of a composition according to the invention is based on the presence of a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0058] According to a first variant, a composition according to the invention is anhydrous. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" is intended to denote a composition which, before any contact with water, comprises a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and in particular less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0059] According to a second variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. Thus, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oily (or fatty) phase which further comprises at least one dispersed aqueous phase, for example in encapsulated form such as for example in the form of matrix spheres (or pearls or beads) or of core / shell type (or capsules), for example in the form of capsules as described in WO2010 / 063937.

[0060] Thus, a solid composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the dispersed aqueous phase may then be between 0.5% and 50%, preferably between 1% and 40%, in particular between 2.5% and 30%, and better still between 5% and 20%, by weight relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0062] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0063] A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0064] The lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; fatty substances which are solid at ambient temperature and pressure; and mixtures thereof.

[0065] The fatty substances which are solid at room temperature and pressure are preferably chosen from at least one wax, at least one pasty fatty substance, at least one butter, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a heat-sensitive gelling agent, i.e. one which reacts to heat, and in particular is a gelling agent which is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 60°C, and better still above 70°C. Preferably, a heat-sensitive lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention has a melting point of between 50°C and 130°C, and preferably between 60°C and 120°C.

[0066] As lipophilic gelling agent(s), mention may be made, for example, of those described in WO2021 / 234135.

[0067] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, in particular marketed under the name Estogel M by PolymerExpert, Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer and its derivatives, in particular marketed respectively under the names Estogel Green (or Estogel G) and Estogel Green 40 by PolymerExpert, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, in particular marketed under the name OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer by the company Lubrizol, Trihydroxystearin, in particular marketed under the name THIXCIN® R by the company Elementis Specialties, and their mixtures, and better still Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0068] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, and better still from 40% to 60%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Oils

[0070] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil. The term “oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0071] Examples of oils according to the invention include:

[0072] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, as described below;

[0073] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

[0074] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a C8 to C29 fatty acid, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched C3 to C30 hydrocarbon chain, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

[0075] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

[0076] - silicone oils, such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0077] - fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;

[0078] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0079] - and their mixtures.

[0080] Examples of oils that can be mentioned are those described in WO2021 / 234135.

[0081] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one vegetable oil, such as for example copra oil, coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, castor oil, babassu oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, and better still from 40% to 60%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive, at least one oil and their mixtures.

[0084] Pigments

[0085] A solid composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. By "pigment" is meant a coloring chemical substance insoluble in the phase in which the pigment is present. By "insoluble" is meant that the solubility at 20°C of the pigment in the phase in which the pigment is present is less than 1 g / L, in particular less than 0.1 g / L, preferably less than 0.001 g / L.

[0086] Each pigment can independently be an organic, inorganic, or hybrid organic-inorganic pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments.

[0087] The coloration conferred by a composition according to the invention can for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and / or spectrophotocolorimetry.

[0088] Coverage corresponds to the ability of a composition to “mask the skin” / “hide imperfections”. The coverage of a composition according to the invention can be measured using the following method.

[0089] The composition is spread on matte black and matte white contrast cards, for example LENETA Form WPI for the matte black card and Leneta IA for the matte white card. Application can be carried out with an automatic spreader. Measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread. Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and D65 / 10 observation 0, specular component mode excluded, small aperture (CREISS)) on black and white backgrounds. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in CIELab76 space as defined by the International Commission on Illumination according to recommendation 15:2004. The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of Y on a black background, divided by the mean value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.

[0090] Examples of pigments that may be mentioned include titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Preferred mineral pigments are iron oxides, including red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

[0091] The pigment is preferably an iron oxide, including red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Each pigment may be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment. For the purposes of the application, "treated pigment" means a pigment that has been treated with an additive improving its dispersibility in an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below. "Untreated pigment" or "untreated pigment" means a pigment that has not been treated with such an additive. According to a first alternative, the pigment used is an untreated and unground pigment (pigment used "as is").

[0093] According to a second alternative, the pigment used has undergone a preliminary treatment in order to make it more easily dispersible during the formulation of the pigment, that is to say in particular more easily dispersible in the phase considered. This preliminary treatment consists of grinding the pigment and / or pretreating it with an additive improving its dispersibility before formulating it in the form of a series of colored particles.

[0094] The use of a ground pigment and / or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:

[0095] - contributes to the preparation of a composition whose fatty phase has a high pigment content,

[0096] - contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) in the phase(s) which contain(s) it, and / or

[0097] - contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the aggregation of pigments in the phase(s) which contain(s) it.

[0098] Generally, when multiple pigments are used, they all undergo the same treatment, i.e., they are all ground and / or pre-treated. However, it is possible for some to be ground and untreated, and others to be treated and ground or unground.

[0099] According to a first embodiment according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment.

[0100] The nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic character of the phase(s) which will comprise this treated pigment.

[0101] When a composition uses several pre-treated pigments, these can be pre-treated with additives that are identical or different from each other.

[0102] An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment in an oily phase is chosen, for example, from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or one of its salts and an amino acid ester or one of its salts, and mixtures thereof. Hydrogenated lecithin comprises phosphate mono- and diesters comprising fatty chains which promote dispersibility in the oily phase. The silicone additive can either be obtained from a silicone precursor, such as an alkoxyalkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, or be a silicone, such as dimethicone or one of its derivatives, for example bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, or be obtained from a mixture of silicone and one of its precursors, for example a mixture of dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate.The silicone additive may be a hybrid treatment, particularly a mixture of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, PEG-2 soyamine, and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). The wax may, for example, be rose floral wax. The preferred amino acid is cystine, and the preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl arginine, or lauroyl lysine.

[0103] As pigments, additives improving the dispersibility of pigments in oily or aqueous phase, and a process for preparing a pigment pretreated with an additive, we can for example cite those described in WO2018178353 or FR2112468.

[0104] The solid nature of a composition according to the invention advantageously allows the presence of pigments in high concentrations, which makes it possible to reconcile in the same composition opposing technical performances such as coverage and homogeneity of the deposit, or even comfort on application and good hydration.

[0105] The skilled person will take care to choose the pigments and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. Also, the skilled person will take care to choose the nature and / or the quantity of pigments according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered and / or with regard to the manufacturing process of the composition. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of the skilled person.

[0106] In particular, a solid composition according to the invention comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, in particular better between 15% and 35%, and preferably between 20% and 25%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0107] Additional compound

[0108] A composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, or even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the aforementioned lipophilic gelling agents, oils and pigments.

[0109] A composition according to the invention may also comprise powders; glitter; coloring agents, in particular chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic coloring agents, materials with an optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase; perfuming agents; preservatives; humectants; fillers with a blurring effect; effervescent agents; disintegrants (e.g. Croscarmellose, carboxymethylcellulose, etc.); diluents; disintegration promoters; stabilizers; chelators; emollients; modifying agents chosen from texturizing agents (or gelling agents) and in particular hydrophilic gelling agents, pH, osmotic force and / or refractive index modifiers, etc., or any usual cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

[0110] A composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, or even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may further comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active ingredient chosen from moisturizing agents, anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents, vitamins, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active ingredients stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermo-contracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] As hydrophilic gelling agents, we can cite those described in FR3041251.

[0112] A solid composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one filler with a blurring effect. A filler with a blurring effect is capable of modifying and / or masking wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties. These fillers may in particular modify wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.

[0113] Examples of fillers with a blurring effect are the following compounds:

[0114] - porous silica microparticles such as Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 from Miyoshi with an average size of 5 pm and SUNSPHERES® H series from Asahi Glass such as H33, H51 with a size of 3.5 and 5 pm respectively and Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies with a size of 7 pm and 5 pm respectively;

[0115] - hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, notably described in EP 1 579 849;

[0116] - silicone resin powders such as SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE silicone with an average size of 4.5 pm;

[0117] - acrylic copolymer powders, in particular poly(methyl meth)acrylate such as, for example, Nihon Junyoki's Jurimer MBI® PMMA particles with an average size of 8 pm, hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;

[0118] - wax powders such as Paraffin wax microloase® 1 14S particles from Micropowders with an average size of 7 pm;

[0119] - polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, such as, for example, FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 μm;

[0120] - crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane, under the names KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu;

[0121] - composite powders of talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica such as Coverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst & Chemical;

[0122] - talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octeanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules;

[0123] - synthetic or natural, mineral or organic hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephthamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl or vinylidene chloride, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and their mixtures described in patent application EP 1 151 742;

[0124] - crosslinked spherical elastomeric silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning;

[0125] - abrasive fillers which, through mechanical effect, smooth the skin's microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez, or nut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example, from Cosmétochem); and

[0126] - their mixtures.

[0127] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one solvent capable of evaporating in whole or in part during the manufacturing process, as described below. As a solvent, mention may for example be made of an apolar or slightly polar organic solvent, for example cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran), and mixtures thereof. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compound(s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. Also, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or the quantity of additional compound(s) according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered and / or with regard to the manufacturing process of the composition. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0128] The solid nature of a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to do without conventional packaging. Indeed, the packaging of a solid composition according to the invention can be limited to simple wrapping in paper.

[0129] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention does not consist of a network of fibers.

[0130] Preferably, a composition according to the invention does not comprise a surfactant.

[0131] Preferably, a solid composition according to the invention does not comprise polyvinyl alcohol (PVA or PVOH), polyacrylate, copolymer of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyalkylene oxide, polyacrylonitrile (PES or PAN), polyethylene terephthalate methacrylate, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, hyaluronic acid, starch and its derivatives, pullulan, gelatin, cellulose (e.g. rayon), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cotton, and a mixture thereof.

[0132] A composition according to the invention does not comprise (or is not based on) a water-soluble solid support, for example of the hydrogel type, in particular based on starch, where appropriate destructured, and / or poloxamer 407.

[0133] Manufacturing process

[0134] A composition according to the invention is obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art suitable for the manufacture of a solid composition, subject to the necessary adaptations to ensure the formation of cavities and therefore satisfy the required porosity criterion.

[0135] Preferably, the method for manufacturing a solid composition according to the invention does not include a step of aeration / injection of a gas, for example air, where appropriate followed by a step of forming and then drying. Method No. 1

[0136] According to a first variant, a method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0137] (i) have a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0138] (ii) pouring the composition into a mold and drying until a solid composition is obtained,

[0139] (iii) cutting the solid composition into the desired shape, and

[0140] (iv) forming cavities to obtain a solid composition according to the invention.

[0141] Step (i) is advantageously carried out hot.

[0142] Advantageously, steps (iii) and (iv) are simultaneous.

[0143] Advantageously, steps (ii), (iii) and (iv) are simultaneous, in which case the mold has a shape adapted to ensure the formation of the cavity(ies).

[0144] Step (iv) is advantageously carried out using a cookie cutter.

[0145] Process No. 1 is advantageous in that the scraps obtained at the end of step (iv) can be recovered during subsequent production. In fact, these scraps can be heated again and reintroduced into a subsequent process No. 1 at step (i) and / or (ii).

[0146] Process No. 2

[0147] According to a second variant, a method of manufacturing a composition according to the invention is an extrusion method.

[0148] Such a manufacturing method according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0149] (a) have a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0150] (b) passing the composition of step (a) through an extrusion device provided with a die (or extrusion grid) of a shape suitable for forming a solid bar, and

[0151] (c) cutting the bar obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to the invention.

[0152] For obvious reasons, step (b) is carried out at a temperature suitable for providing a composition with sufficient viscosity and capable of retaining the shape assigned by the die.

[0153] For obvious reasons, the shape of the die of the extrusion device is also adapted to ensure the formation of the cavity(ies). Advantageously, step (b) is carried out at a temperature lower than ambient temperature, and for example at a temperature lower than or equal to 15°C, or even lower than or equal to 10°C.

[0154] At step (b), the extrusion device comprises a die having a shape adapted to form the desired cavity(ies) and level of porosity in the solid bar.

[0155] By way of illustration, an extrusion method according to the invention comprises a die such as that illustrated in Figure 4.

[0156] Step (c) can be done using a knife or a wire, such as a butter cutter.

[0157] Preferably, steps (b) and (c) are simultaneous.

[0158] Preferably, the method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention is extrusion method no. 2 described above.

[0159] According to a particular embodiment, applicable to processes No. 1 and No. 2 described previously, step (i) / (a) consists of having a fluid composition which may comprise at least one solvent capable of evaporating in whole or in part during step (ii) / (b), or even further during step (iii) and / or (iv) / (c).

[0160] As a solvent, we can for example cite a non-polar or slightly polar organic solvent, for example cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran), and their mixture.

[0161] In processes No. 1 and No. 2 above, when the composition comprises at least one fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent, step (i) / (a) may require heating said composition to a temperature above the highest melting point of the lipophilic gelling agents present in said composition.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment, extrusion process No. 2 can be carried out using a 3D printing technique.

[0163] Use

[0164] A composition according to the invention is dedicated to the makeup of a keratin material, in particular of the skin and / or the lips. In particular, a composition according to the invention may for example be a mascara, a complexion product, such as a foundation, an eyeliner, a highlighter / illuminator, a concealer, a concealer, an anti-dark circle product, an eyeshadow or blush, a lip product such as a lipstick, a plumper, a blush, or a lip gloss, a conditioner, a kohl, or a self-tanner.

[0165] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention is not in the form of a mask.

[0166] According to a first embodiment, in particular when a composition according to the invention is of the single-dose type, a solid composition according to the invention is intended for direct contact with a keratin material.

[0167] According to a second embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention is intended to be brought into contact with an aqueous phase, in particular water before, simultaneously and / or after its application to the keratin material to be treated. When a composition according to the invention is not of the single-dose type, contact with water is carried out during the first use only, and assumes packaging of the “solid composition / water” mixture in a suitable receptacle. For obvious reasons, this requires a solid composition of suitable formula and a sufficient quantity of water to ensure the transition from a solid composition to a liquid composition, for example in the form of a gel. Also, this requires the presence in the solid composition of at least one preservative to guarantee good preservation over time of the liquid composition thus formed.

[0168] Finally, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for making up a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition as defined above.

[0169] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a product comprising, or deriving from the contact between, at least one first solid composition as described above and at least one second liquid composition.

[0170] First solid composition

[0171] For the purposes of the present invention, the first composition may be designated indifferently by “first solid composition” or “solid composition”, and corresponds to a solid composition as described above. Second liquid composition

[0172] For the purposes of the present invention, the second composition may be referred to indifferently as “second liquid composition” or “liquid composition”.

[0173] According to a first variant, the second composition is aqueous.

[0174] According to a second variant, the second composition is anhydrous.

[0175] According to a third variant, the second composition is an emulsion. An emulsion may be a direct (i.e. oil-in-water), inverse (i.e. water-in-oil) or multiple, in particular double (i.e. water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil or oil-in-oil-in-water) emulsion.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the second composition is an emulsion, preferably direct, stable and highly concentrated in dispersed phase, and in particular is an emulsion of the HIPE (i.e. “High Internal Phase Emulsion”) or Apollonian type.

[0177] A second composition according to the invention is not in a solid form at room temperature and at room pressure, that is to say it is capable of flowing under its own weight.

[0178] A second composition according to the invention is in a liquid form, preferably in the form of a gel.

[0179] The viscosity of a second composition or at least of its continuous phase when in the form of an emulsion, can vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain varied textures. The viscosity is measured at room temperature and at ambient pressure according to the method described in WO2017046305.

[0180] For obvious reasons, the viscosity of the second composition is adjusted to allow easy sampling / administration of the product according to the invention.

[0181] According to one embodiment, the second composition advantageously has a viscosity of from 5,000 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10,000 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, better still from 25,000 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 50,000 mPa.s to 75,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C according to the method described above.

[0182] Preferably, the second composition can reduce the solidity of the first composition. In particular, the second composition can advantageously comprise at least one raw material capable of reducing the solidity of the first composition. This embodiment is advantageous in that it makes it possible to change the solid texture of the first composition towards a softer texture. We can thus speak of a “transformative effect”. A product according to the invention can advantageously comprise a “first composition(s) / second composition(s)” weight ratio of between 0.01 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, and better still between 0.5 and 1.

[0183] According to a particular embodiment, the first composition may comprise high levels of pigments and / or biological / cosmetic active ingredient(s) as described below. Thus, the first composition may be described as a “booster”.

[0184] In view of the above, a product according to the invention is an extemporaneous product, that is to say that it is the user, during the first use of the product, who will bring the first composition and the second composition into contact.

[0185] Thus, the invention relates to a kit comprising:

[0186] - at least one first composition as described above;

[0187] - at least one second composition as described above; and

[0188] - optionally, at least one container.

[0189] A container may be referred to indifferently as “receptacle”, “packaging” or “primary packaging”.

[0190] The invention also relates to the use of the kit described above, to obtain a product according to the invention.

[0191] Preferably, a kit according to the invention may further comprise at least one application / administration means. In the case where the product is intended for cosmetic use, a kit according to the invention may further comprise at least one means of application to a keratin material, for example chosen from the group formed by spatulas, brushes, brushes, feathers or sponges.

[0192] According to a particular variant, the kit may comprise several first compositions, identical or different, and / or several second compositions, identical or different, and / or at least one means of application.

[0193] Thus, the invention also relates to a kit comprising several first compositions in the form of single doses comprising different cosmetic / biological active ingredients and / or contents of cosmetic / biological active ingredient(s).

[0194] Thus, such a kit according to the invention advantageously allows easy adaptation for the user of the desired effect.

[0195] In the case of a cosmetic product, this particular embodiment allows the user to decide on the desired cosmetic effect, in particular depending on their state of mind (mood), their clothing style and / or the time of day. DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0196] Figure 1 represents a composition according to the invention of parallelepiped shape provided with a cylindrical cavity. A corresponds to the side view and B corresponds to the top view.

[0197] Figure 2 represents a composition according to the invention of ovoid shape provided with cavities (top view), representing the word “SOAP”.

[0198] Figure 3 represents a composition according to the invention provided with honeycomb cavities (top view).

[0199] Figure 4 represents a die used for the process of the invention.

[0200] Figure 5 represents a comparative chain.

[0201] Figure 6 represents other examples of solid compositions according to the invention.

[0202] EXAMPLES

[0203] Example 1 - Comparative study

[0204] Step 1 - manufacturing:

[0205] - In a container placed in a bain-marie (80°C), mix all the ingredients listed in the table below until homogenized.

[0206] Sufficient Quantity For

[0207] Step 2 - Extrusion:

[0208] - The mixture obtained in step 1 is injected into an extruder provided, in a first case, with a die according to the invention as illustrated in figure 4 and in a second case, with a comparative die as illustrated in figure 5;

[0209] - At the outlet of the die, the extruded loaves are cut to obtain the weights and volumes described in table 1 below.

[0210] - Single-dose solid makeup compositions are obtained, respectively, in the form of a solid composition according to the invention with a honeycomb structure (test 1, for example like those described in figure 6) and a comparative solid composition with a general shape identical to test 1 but without a cavity (soaps 2 and 3). Step 3 - Application:

[0211] Stage 3 is carried out on a panel of 18 women between 22 and 47 years old (hereinafter the “candidates”), 3 groups then being formed, each group being made up of 6 women (groups A, B and C).

[0212] For each group, the candidates apply the tested composition to their lips.

[0213] Each of groups A, B and C will use trials 1, 2 and 3, but each time in different orders.

[0214] In this step 3, candidates evaluate the performance of tests 1, 2 and 3 in terms of (i) gripping capacity, (ii) homogeneity of coverage, (iii) comfort on application and (iii) state of the composition after use.

[0215] Rating criteria:

[0216] The average results obtained with the three groups A, B and C are presented in the following table, it being understood that the trends observed are identical between the three groups.

[0217] With comparative tests 2 and 3, we observe that when the size is too small, the grip is poor and it is difficult to handle and when it is too large, it is not possible to consume it completely during single-dose use which generates a lot of losses.

[0218] Furthermore, tests 2 and 3 show average properties in terms of coverage homogeneity and comfort of application.

[0219] Test 1 according to the invention makes it possible to combine the advantages of comparative tests 2 and 3 without their disadvantages.

[0220] A composition according to the invention, thanks to the presence of cavities in the contents considered, makes it possible to access solid makeup compositions combining a capacity to generate homogeneous coverage with less material while generating less loss and presenting satisfactory homogeneity and comfort of application, and this without prejudice to the gripping properties.

[0221] A solid composition according to the invention therefore requires less raw materials and is therefore advantageous both ecologically and economically.

[0222] A study similar to that described above was also carried out with a solid foundation-type composition, like that illustrated in Example 2. Identical results were obtained. Example 2 - Solid Stick Foundation

[0223] Sufficient quantity for

[0224] The manufacturing process is as follows:

[0225] Introduce the ingredients of phase A into a container and heat the mixture while stirring to 100°C until homogenized;

[0226] Cool to 80°C and add the ingredients of phase B while stirring until homogenized;

[0227] Inject the mixture obtained into an extruder provided with a die according to the invention as illustrated in figure 4;

[0228] - At the outlet of the die, cut the extruded loaves to obtain the desired shape and size; and - Package the solid composition obtained in suitable packaging.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Solid cosmetic makeup composition of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one pigment, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one cavity such that said composition comprises a porosity greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

2. Solid composition according to claim 1, wherein the porosity is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40%, in particular greater than or equal to 50%, or even greater than or equal to 60%, in particular greater than or equal to 70%, and most particularly greater than or equal to 80%, by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

3. Solid composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the cavity(ies) is / are through-hole(s).

4. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising one or more cavities, preferably several cavities, identical or different.

5. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cavity(ies) are round, oblong, ovoid, triangular, polygonal, honeycomb, or in the form of a tiling (or cutting), for example of the Voronoi diagram type, preferably in the form of a honeycomb.

6. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio between the volume of the cavity(ies) and the total volume of the composition is between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better between 0.2 and 0.7, or even between 0.2 and 0.

6.

7. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, preferably between 15% and 35%, and preferably between 20% and 25%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably thermosensitive, at least one oil, and mixtures thereof.

9. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition further comprises at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

10. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition is a single-dose composition.

11. Kit includes: - at least one first composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10; - at least one second liquid composition; and - optionally, at least one container.

12. Packaging comprising several solid compositions of any one of claims 1 to 10, preferably in the form of single doses, said compositions comprising different pigments and / or pigment contents, and therefore different shades.

13. A method for manufacturing a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least the steps of: (i) have a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form; (ii) pour the composition into a mold and dry until a solid composition is obtained, (iii) cut the solid composition into the desired shape, and (iv) formation of cavities to obtain a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

14. A method for manufacturing a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least the steps of: (a) have a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form; (b) pass the composition of step (a) through an extrusion device equipped with a die of suitable shape to form a solid bar, and (c) cutting the bar obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the makeup of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

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