Novel transparent cosmetic composition for skin and hair hygiene and care

Abstract

The invention relates to a transparent cosmetic composition containing a mixture of surfactants comprising a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acyl glutamic acids and the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, the non-ionic surfactant lauryl glucoside alone or accompanied by at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. The composition is free of amphoteric surfactant from the class of amidopropyl betaines and surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group. It is particularly suitable for skin and hair hygiene and care.

Description

Description Title of the invention: NEW TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN AND HAIR HYGIENE AND CARE Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a novel transparent cosmetic composition and the use of such a composition for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for hygiene and / or skin and / or hair care using such a composition. Previous technique

[0002] A cosmetic formulation intended for washing and / or caring for skin and / or hair must be effective, meaning it must cleanse, lather, and detangle. Indeed, consumers primarily expect products that produce a rich lather and have a detangling effect on hair. Furthermore, such a formulation should contain as few, or no, controversial substances as possible, as consumers are increasingly vigilant about the composition of their cosmetic products. They seek products free of chemicals, preferring ingredients of natural origin, known for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more environmentally friendly.

[0003] It is also preferable for such a cosmetic composition to be transparent, as this conveys a feeling and a guarantee of security to many consumers.

[0004] Furthermore, such a cosmetic composition can be packaged in various formats. These can include tubes or pump bottles, which imposes constraints on product dispensing. This specificity generally requires inventors to give the composition certain viscosity values. A formula that is too thick will not be pumpable and too fluid a formula will escape from the consumer's hands, which does not correspond to the organoleptic quality for hygiene products.

[0005] Many cosmetic compositions for body and hair application developed in the prior art contain sulfated surfactants. These provide a particularly attractive foaming effect, giving the impression of gentle cleansing. However, they are actually very irritating to the skin, drying, and allergenic.

[0006] Similarly, the presence of certain amphoteric surfactants, such as amidopropyl betaines and particularly cocamidopropyl betaine, is suspected of causing intolerances like skin irritations. It turns out that two impurities found in these amidopropyl betaines are responsible for this negative reputation. These are 3,3-dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA) and amidoamine, which are known for their irritant and sensitizing properties (Fowler et al. Contact Dermatitis 37, 276-281, 1997; Angelini et al. Contact Dermatitis 34, 248-252, 1996).

[0007] Thus, for good skin tolerance, these ingredients must be used at low concentrations, with a continued risk when dealing with consumers with particularly marked skin sensitivity.

[0008] The present invention aims to remedy the disadvantages of cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art, in particular the disadvantages set out above, by proposing a transparent cosmetic composition, which contains as few as possible or does not contain ingredients which are not of natural origin, which has a physiological pH, which is respectful of the epidermis and therefore presents as few as possible risks of skin intolerance, while having a foaming power at least as good, or even better, than that of cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

[0009] Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition contains the fewest possible ingredients, and that it is suitable for use on all skin types, including sensitive and atopic skin.

[0010] The invention also aims to ensure that this transparent composition has sufficient viscosity so that it does not escape from the user's hand when handling it and allows its distribution through different types of packaging, including tubes and pump bottles. Presentation of the invention

[0011] It has been discovered by the present inventors that such objectives are achieved by the implementation of a particular combination of surfactants, this combination unexpectedly exhibiting a particularly high foaming power, good viscosity and enabling the formation of transparent cosmetic compositions with a reduced risk of skin irritation compared to cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

[0012] The term "good viscosity" of a composition means a viscosity that allows the composition to be distributed through various packaging, including tubes and pump bottles, and does not escape from the consumer's hands when distributed.

[0013] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent cosmetic composition, particularly suitable for topical application, especially on the skin and hair. This transparent composition contains: - A mixture of surfactants comprising: o at least one anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, o the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside alone or accompanied by at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl group comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, o at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, and - at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0014] Furthermore, this transparent cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least 50% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and it is free from amphoteric surfactants of the class amidopropyl betaines and surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group.

[0015] In this description, "cosmetically acceptable" means that the salt or excipient is suitable for use by contact with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant odor, color, and feel, and does not cause unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from the composition according to the invention.

[0016] A transparent composition is defined in this description, conventionally, as a composition with a turbidity of less than 20 NTU. Turbidity is measured using a HACH TL2310 turbidimeter. Before each turbidity measurement, the correct calibration of the instrument is verified by measuring the turbidity of two standards from a StabCal 0 to 4000 NTU calibration kit, the standards being chosen to bracket the expected value of the sample.

[0017] In this description, "at least one" means a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Thus, the surfactant mixture of the composition according to the invention contains: - A single anionic surfactant chosen from among alaninates, acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants; - A single non-ionic surfactant, which is lauryl glucoside, or a plurality of non-ionic surfactants including lauryl glucoside and one or a plurality of non-ionic surfactants selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms; - A single amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, or a plurality of such amphoteric surfactants other than amidopropyl betaines.

[0018] Such a specific blend of surfactants advantageously ensures high foaming power for the transparent cosmetic composition, as well as good quality of the foam formed. Without prejudging the phenomena underlying these performances of the surfactant blend according to the invention, one It is possible to assume that these properties are due to a synergistic effect of the specific groups carried by these surfactants. These performance characteristics are advantageously achieved by avoiding the use of amphoteric surfactants such as amidopropyl betaines, which are commonly used in cosmetic compositions for hygiene or skin and hair care and which carry the drawback of a risk of skin irritation. The resulting transparent composition therefore presents a non-existent or significantly reduced risk of skin irritation compared to prior art compositions. Furthermore, this blend of surfactants gives the transparent cosmetic composition good viscosity, specifically a viscosity that allows it to operate without a thickening agent, even when the composition includes one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients such as emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, and perfumes.

[0019] In the present invention, "amidopropyl betaines" means the following compounds: behenamidopropyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, myristamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, undecyleneamidopropyl betaine, and amidopropyl betaines derived from: almond, apricot, avocado, babassu, rapeseed, coconut oil, sunflower oil, oat, olive, palm oil, castor oil, soy, shea butter, and wheat germ.

[0020] Furthermore, the transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention is not in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, or a biphasic composition, but rather in the form of a monophasic fluid composition.

[0021] In particular embodiments, the invention also meets the following characteristics, implemented separately or in each of their technically operative combinations.

[0022] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise any additional ingredients selected from fats. According to another particular embodiment, the transparent composition comprises a total quantity of additional ingredient(s) selected from fats that is less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the transparent cosmetic composition contains a total content of additional ingredient(s) selected from fatty substances of between 0.001 and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.001 and 1% by weight, more particularly between 0.001 and 0.5% by weight, and notably between 0.001 and 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The total contents of additional ingredient(s) selected from fatty substances indicated above are such that they allow the transparent cosmetic composition of the present invention to maintain a form that is not that of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase.

[0023] For the purposes of this invention, the term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C, 1 atm, i.e., with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight. Fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, or petrolatum.

[0024] The term "fatty substances" includes fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty acids, fatty amides, mineral (or hydrocarbon), animal or vegetable oils or waxes, etc.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent cosmetic composition does not contain an emulsifying agent. In particular, it is free of emulsifying agents such as a polyethylene glycol fatty acid monoester.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition of the present invention exhibits a turbidity of less than 20 NTU for at least 12 months after its preparation. Preferably, the transparent composition exhibits a turbidity of less than 20 NTU for at least 24 months after its preparation, and even more preferably, it exhibits a turbidity of less than 20 NTU for at least 36 months after its preparation.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from among the alaninates are preferably chosen from sodium cocoyl alaninate or trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant(s) selected from acylglutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably selected from acylglutamic acids whose acyl group comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The acyl group may, in particular, be selected from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl, and oleoyl groups. The cosmetically acceptable salt of acylglutamic acid may be selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, and ammonium salts. For example, it is chosen from sodium, potassium, lithium or magnesium salts, with sodium and potassium salts being particularly preferred in the context of the invention.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant(s) selected from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may, for example, be chosen from the group consisting of compounds with the INCI names sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Several anionic surfactant(s) selected from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the compounds listed above.

[0030] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant selected from the alaninates. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant, sodium cocoyl alaninate.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition preferably comprises a single non-ionic surfactant, lauryl glucoside.

[0032] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition comprises at least one second non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms. The alkyl glucosides are preferably selected from compounds with the INCI names: octyl glucoside and decyl glucoside.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines are selected from Sodium Caproamphoacetate, Sodium Caproamphopropionate, Sodium apryloamphoacetate, Sodium Capryloamphopropionate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Sodium Isostearoamphoacetate, Sodium Isostearoamphopropionate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphopropionate, Sodium Oleoamphoacetate, Sodium Oleoamphopropionate, Sodium Stearoamphoacetate, Stearoamphopropionate, Sodium Tailowamphoacetate, Sodium heatgermamphoacetate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Isostearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate,Disodium Isostearoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Stearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Tallowamphodiacetate and Disodium Wheatgermamphodiacetate.

[0034] Preferably, said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is chosen from lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is chosen from lauryl betaine, coco betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate, or mixtures thereof.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least 70% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the transparent cosmetic composition is free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

[0038] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition according to the invention is free of any surfactant of the isethionic acid or isethionate type, in particular a surfactant selected from acyl isthenonic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium cocoyl isethionate. Without altering the performance of the transparent composition, this advantageously reduces the presence, within said composition, of compounds commonly used in cosmetic compositions for hygiene or skin and hair care, which have the disadvantage of being of non-natural origin.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition is free of any surfactant of the sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinate type, in particular a surfactant selected from alkyl sulfosuccinic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name lauryl sulfosuccinate. Without altering the performance of the transparent composition, this also advantageously reduces the presence, within said composition, of compounds commonly used in cosmetic compositions for hygiene or skin and hair care, which have the disadvantage of being of non-natural origin.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition is free of surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group, i.e., an -O-SO3H or -O-SO2-O- group, such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate. Without altering the performance of the transparent composition, this advantageously reduces the presence in said composition of compounds commonly used in cosmetic compositions for hygiene or skin and hair care, which have the disadvantage of being of non-natural origin. Furthermore, although sulfated surfactants offer particularly good foaming power, they are harsh on the epidermis. Thus, their absence in the transparent composition of the present invention advantageously reduces the risk of skin irritation for the user.

[0041] In general, the transparent composition according to the invention preferably contains the fewest possible surfactants. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the transparent composition comprises no more than 6 surfactants, preferably no more than 5 surfactants, preferably still no more than 4 surfactants, and preferably 3 surfactants.As previously stated, strong foaming power and the other advantages mentioned can be obtained with a mixture of surfactants comprising a single compound from each of the three defined surfactant families (an anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates and / or acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, the non-ionic surfactant lauryl glucoside and an amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines), advantageously minimizing the number of ingredients in the composition and thus reducing the manufacturing costs of the composition.

[0042] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the content of said surfactant mixture is between 5 and 18% by weight, preferably between 6 and 16% by weight, and preferably between 8 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the transparent composition. Such ranges of values ​​allow for good foaming power of the composition, good quality of foam formed, and good viscosity. of the composition, while being associated with a reduced manufacturing cost of the composition.

[0043] The total content of said at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates or acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, is preferably between 1.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 2 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] The total content of lauryl glucoside as the sole non-ionic surfactant in the composition is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, preferably between 5 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In a particular embodiment, the total content of non-ionic surfactants consisting of lauryl glucoside accompanied by at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, preferably between 5 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The total content of said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is preferably between 0.5 and 3% by weight, preferably between 1.5 and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the transparent cosmetic composition contains: - A mixture of surfactants comprising: o a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, o the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside alone or accompanied by at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, o 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines relative to the total weight of the composition, and - at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, said composition comprising at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of said mixture of surfactants being between 5 and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition being free of amphoteric surfactant of the amidopropyl betaine class and of surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group.

[0048] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the transparent composition has a viscosity greater than 800 cPs, preferably a viscosity between 800 and 5500 cPs.

[0049] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition is free of thickening agents, in order to minimize the number of ingredients in the formulas. As explained previously, the mixture of surfactants used in the transparent composition advantageously gives it good viscosity, and in particular a viscosity that allows the composition to do without a thickening agent, even when the composition includes one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients such as emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, and perfumes. The number of ingredients in the composition is thus reduced, and the associated manufacturing costs are therefore also reduced.

[0050] In other particular embodiments of the present invention, the composition nevertheless comprises at least one thickening agent.

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, "thickening agent" means preferably alginates, carrageenans, cellulose, starch, gums selected from: diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan gum, acacia gum, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum.

[0052] In particular embodiments of the invention, said at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient is chosen from emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, perfumes, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0053] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the transparent composition contains one or more emollients, in particular selected from glycerin, diglycerin or sorbitol.

[0054] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the transparent composition contains one or more conditioning agents, notably selected from guar gum, polyquaterniums, polyglyceryl compounds, polysaccharides, squalane, etc. Preferably, the conditioning agent is guar gum. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the total content of conditioning agent(s) is between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the transparent composition.

[0055] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the transparent composition according to the invention contains one or more solubilizers, in particular selected from the polyglyceryl family, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl oleate, coco-glucoside.

[0056] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the transparent composition contains one or more cosmetically active agents, particularly for topical use, for example selected from moisturizing agents, antioxidants, vitamins, etc.

[0057] The total content of cosmetically active agent(s) in the transparent composition according to the invention is preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] In particular embodiments of the invention, the transparent composition comprises one or more cosmetically active agent(s) selected from hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helichrysum extracts, helichrysum essential oils, meadowfoam oil, in particular Limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, such as the product marketed under the name Acides de Fleurs®, Garcinia extracts, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extracts, such as the product marketed under the name Alpaflor® Edelweiss, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts, such a list not being in any way limiting of the invention.

[0059] The transparent composition according to the invention, in its desired form, can be prepared by any conventional method for preparing cosmetic compositions. A particularly preferred preparation method within the scope of the invention is the successive introduction, at low speed, of each of the surfactants into the water of the formula in a mixer, followed by the possible addition of other excipients and / or active ingredients, and finally, agitation / homogenization of the formula. The pH of the formula thus obtained can also be adjusted if necessary. In specific embodiments in which the transparent cosmetic composition comprises at least one conditioning agent, the latter is preferably introduced beforehand, under vigorous stirring, into the water of the formula.

[0060] The transparent composition of the present invention can be used on all keratinous materials, such as skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes, in particular packaged in the form of a hygiene product, for example in the form of a skin, mucous membrane and / or hair cleansing product, in particular in the form of a skin cleansing and / or makeup removal product, especially for the face and / or body, in the form of a shower product, in the form of a shampoo.

[0061] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention for washing and / or skin care, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face and / or scalp, and / or hair, of an individual, preferably by topical application.

[0062] This use preferably includes successive steps consisting of: - Apply the transparent formula to the skin and / or hair, preferably after the hair has been moistened. - to develop foam, particularly by rubbing the skin and / or hair onto which the composition has been applied, - and rinse, preferably with water, if necessary after a period of time and / or possible massage.

[0063] These steps can, for example, be implemented once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, or as often as necessary.

[0064] The transparent composition according to the invention can in particular be used for washing and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0065] In this description, sensitive skin refers to skin prone to irritation or allergic reactions due to various internal and external non-immunological factors. Atopic skin refers to skin affected by an inflammatory condition characterized by dryness and itching, such as eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0066] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of an individual's skin and / or hair, using a transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention. This method comprises successive steps consisting of: - Apply the transparent formula to the skin and / or hair, preferably after the hair has been moistened. - to develop lather by rubbing the mixture onto the skin and / or hair, - and rinse, preferably with water.

[0067] This process can meet any characteristic, or combination of characteristics, described above with reference to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention.

[0068] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in the light of the following implementation examples, provided for illustrative purposes only and in no way limiting the invention. Examples

[0069] 1 / Example of composition

[0070] A transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention, intended for the cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of hair, meets the characteristics shown in Table 1 below: [Table 1] Table 1 - Example of a transparent composition according to the invention for hair hygiene and care

[0071] Another example of a transparent composition according to the invention, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care of facial and / or body skin, is given in Table 2 below: [Table 2] Table 2 - Example of a transparent composition according to the invention for facial and / or body skin hygiene and care

[0072] 2 / Evaluation of the characteristics of the compositions according to the invention

[0073] Transparent compositions are evaluated based on the following criteria: - Foaming power (quantity / quality): foam height, creaminess of foam, softness of foam, - Viscosity, - pH: the measurement is taken with a pH meter - Stability over time, - Organoleptic characteristics (color, smell)

[0074] To this end, the following operational protocols are implemented.

[0075] To measure foam height, a 250 ml graduated cylinder with an external diameter of 38.9 cm and a height of 36 cm, fitted with a stopper, is used. 0.5 g of the composition is placed in the cylinder, and demineralized water is added to bring the total volume to 50 ml. The cylinder is then stoppered and shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height is recorded and expressed in mm.

[0076] The results obtained with different anionic surfactants are shown in Table 3 below: [Table 3] Table 3 - Evaluation of different transparent composition criteria according to the invention as a function of different anionic surfactants chosen

[0077] Compositions 1, 2, and 3 exhibit a very good foam height and the expected viscosity. It is interesting to note that the foam height is highest with sodium cocoyl alaninate. is the most important, moreover the mousse appears particularly creamy.

[0078] The results obtained with different non-ionic surfactants are shown in Table 4 below: [Table 4] Table 4 - Evaluation of different criteria for transparent compositions conforming (composition 4) and not conforming (compositions 5 and 6) to the invention as a function of different non-ionic surfactants chosen

[0079] Thus, it is observed that when a single non-ionic surfactant is used to create a transparent composition according to the invention, only lauryl glucoside allows for a compliant composition (composition 4), that is, one with a certain viscosity, specifically a viscosity greater than 800 cPs. Indeed, when coco-glucoside or decyl glucoside is used as the sole non-ionic surfactant, the compositions prove to be too liquid (compositions 5 and 6). Consequently, no foam height could be measured.

[0080] The results obtained with different amphoteric surfactants are shown in Table 5 below: [Table 5] Table 5 - Evaluation of different transparent composition criteria according to the invention as a function of different amphoteric surfactants selected

[0081] It was observed that all compositions 4, 7, 8, and 9 exhibited a similar foam height. The amphoteric surfactant did not appear to influence the foaming power.

[0082] 3 / Comparative tests with prior art composition

[0083] The foam height and viscosity of the composition marketed under the name PLANTAPON® SF by BASF, comprising sodium cocoamphoacetate, glycerin, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, were evaluated.

[0084] The PLANTAPON® SF composition is tested under the same total surfactant concentration conditions as the transparent cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present invention.

[0085] For this purpose, the same operating protocols as in point 2 / above are implemented.

[0086] To measure the foam height, a 250 ml graduated cylinder with an external diameter of 38.9 cm and a height of 36 cm, fitted with a stopper, is used. 0.5 g of the PLANTAPON® SF composition is placed in this cylinder, and demineralized water is added to bring the total volume to 50 ml. The viscosity of the measured composition is 1158 cPs. The cylinder is then stoppered and shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height is recorded and expressed in mm. The foam height obtained is 180 ml.

[0087] In conclusion, the transparent cosmetic composition of the present invention, which comprises only one anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acyl glutamic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, provides foaming power as good as, if not better than, the PLANTAPON® SF composition comprising two anionic surfactants (sodium cocoyl glutamate and lauryl glucose carboxylate). The transparent cosmetic composition of the present invention is therefore just as effective, if not more so, than PLANTAPON SF, and, above all, it is more economical because this effectiveness is achieved with fewer ingredients.

[0088] More generally, it should be noted that the methods of implementation and realization of the invention considered above have been described as non-limiting examples and that other variants are therefore conceivable.

Claims

Demands Claim 1. A transparent cosmetic composition characterized in that it contains: - A mixture of surfactants comprising: o a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, o the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside alone or accompanied by at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, o 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines relative to the total weight of the composition, and - at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, said composition comprising at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of said mixture of surfactants being between 5 and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition being free of amphoteric surfactant of the amidopropyl betaine class and of surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group. Claim 2. A transparent cosmetic composition according to claim 1 in which the total content of anionic surfactant selected from alaninates or acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is between 1.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Claim 3. A transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 wherein the content of lauryl glucoside as the sole non-ionic surfactant of the composition is between 3 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Claim 4. A transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said anionic surfactant selected from alaninates is preferably selected from sodium cocoyl alaninate or trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate. Claim 5. A transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least one anionic surfactant selected from cosmetically acceptable acyl glutamic acids and their salts is preferably selected from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Claim 6. A transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein said at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from coco betaine, lauryl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Claim 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein said at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient is selected from emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. Claim 8. Transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein said composition is devoid of thickening agent. Claim 9. Transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising at least one conditioning agent selected from guar, polyquaternium, polyglyceryl, polysaccharides, squalane. Claim 10. Transparent cosmetic composition according to claim 9 in which the total content of conditioning agent(s) is between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Claim 1 1. A transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one cosmetically active agent selected from vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helichrysum extracts, helichrysum essential oils, meadowfoam oil, in particular Limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, Garcinia extracts, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extracts, quinine extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts. Claim 12. Transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1, packaged as shower gel, shampoo, face and / or body foaming gel. Claim 13. A transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, said transparent composition comprising a viscosity greater than 800 cPs, preferably between 800 and 5500 cPs. Claim 14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for washing and / or caring for skin and / or hair. Claim 15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 14, in which case it is for washing and / or caring for sensitive skin. Claim 16. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, using a transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising successive steps consisting of: - Apply the transparent formula to the skin and / or hair, preferably after the hair has been moistened. - to develop lather by rubbing the mixture onto the skin and / or hair, - and rinse.

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