Solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one cavity

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition intended for hygiene, cleaning and / or beautifying a keratin material, comprising at least one cavity such that the composition has a porosity of greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of the solid composition, as well as to associated production methods.

Description

[0001] Solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one cavity

[0002] The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition dedicated to the hygiene, cleaning and / or beautification of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or hair.

[0003] Hotels often offer their guests soaps and / or shampoos in the form of single-dose solid compositions. The size and volume of these single-dose solid compositions are generally dictated to ensure a good grip by the user. This size and volume are therefore generally significantly larger than those actually needed to ensure satisfactory cleaning of the body area to be treated. A significant portion of these solid compositions therefore ends up in the trash and generates a lot of waste, which, for obvious reasons, is not satisfactory from an economic and ecological point of view.

[0004] The inventors have found that it is possible to provide solid compositions overcoming the aforementioned drawback without prejudice to good grip by the user.

[0005] Composition

[0006] The invention thus relates to a solid cosmetic composition dedicated to the hygiene, cleaning and / or beautification of a keratin material comprising at least one cavity such that said composition comprises a porosity greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, better still greater than or equal to 40%, in particular greater than or equal to 50%, or even greater than or equal to 60%, in particular greater than or equal to 70%, and very particularly greater than or equal to 80%, by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition. The invention relates more particularly to a composition for the hygiene and / or cleaning of a keratin material.

[0007] Thus, a composition according to the invention may remain endowed with a size and / or a volume similar to current solid compositions but differ by the presence of at least one cavity such that the porosity of said composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said composition.

[0008] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" is intended to denote a composition which, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, is not capable of collapsing under its own weight. Advantageously, it is intended to denote any composition having a compressive strength greater than or equal to 20 g, preferably greater than or equal to 50 g, and better still greater than or equal to 100 g, at room temperature (20-25°C), after penetration by a cylindrical probe of revolution having a diameter of 0.8 cm into the matrix of the composition to a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and removal of said probe from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 0.5 mm / s; the compressive strength being measured with an analyzer of the "LFRA Texture Analyzer" type marketed by the company STEVENS / MECHTRIC.

[0009] A composition according to the invention is not in the form of a paste. A composition according to the invention is not a powdery composition, and is therefore not in the form of a powder. Finally, a composition according to the invention is also not a porous solid derived from the agglomeration of powders. According to a first embodiment, a composition according to the invention is not an expanded composition, and is therefore not a foam. According to a second embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be an expanded composition, and may therefore be in the form of a foam.

[0010] Preferably, a solid composition according to the invention is not coated with a water-soluble coating.

[0011] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "porosity" means all the voids in a solid material, these voids being able to be filled by fluids, in particular water, when the solid composition is placed in the presence of an aqueous solution, for example water such as tap water, shower water or bath water.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cavity" is understood to mean an empty space inside a solid body and which communicates directly with the external environment, for example like the cavities illustrated in Figures 1 to 3 and 6. A cavity can therefore be designated indifferently by the terms "orifice", "pore" or "hole". Advantageously, the cavity(ies) is / are through, that is to say that the cavity designates an empty space inside a solid body and which communicates directly with the external environment on either side of the solid body.

[0013] Thus, the volume of the cavity(ies) in a solid composition according to the invention represents at least 20%, in particular at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, or even at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, and very particularly at least 80%, of the total volume of said solid composition.

[0014] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention has a density of between 0.2 and 0.8, preferably between 0.3 and 0.7, in particular between 0.4 and 0.6.

[0015] A solid composition according to the invention may have a total volume of between 0.125 cm 3 and 100 cm 3 , preferably between 0.250 cm 3 and 75 cm 3 , especially between 0.5 cm 3 and 50 cm 3 , better between 1 cm 3 and 25 cm 3 , and especially between 2.5 cm 3 and 15 cm 3 .

[0016] A solid composition according to the invention may have a weight of between 0.025 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.25 g and 150 g, in particular between 0.5 g and 100 g, better still between 1 g and 75 g, very particularly between 2.5 g and 50 g, or even between 5 g and 25 g (“g” corresponding to the unit “gram”).

[0017] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention may have a weight of between 0.25 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.50 g and 150 g, in particular between 1 g and 100 g, better still between 2.5 g and 75 g, and very particularly between 5 g and 50 g (“g” corresponding to the unit “gram”).

[0018] According to a first preferred embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention comprises a ratio between the volume of the cavities and the total volume of the composition of between 0.05 and 0.9, preferably between 0.1 and 0.8, in particular between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better still between 0.2 and 0.7, or even between 0.2 and 0.6.

[0019] By "total volume" is meant the volume resulting from the sum of the volume of solid and the volume of the cavities.

[0020] In the context of the present invention, the cavities may be described as macroporosity, i.e. pores whose minimum width, or even diameter, is greater than or equal to 0.5 mm, preferably greater than or equal to 0.75 mm, and in particular greater than or equal to 1 mm, or even between 0.5 mm and 2 cm, very particularly between 1 mm and 2 cm, preferably between 2 mm and 1 cm, in particular between 3 mm and 75 mm, better still between 4 mm and 50 mm, and very particularly between 5 mm and 25 mm. In particular, the pores have a minimum width, or even a diameter, of between 0.5 mm and 5 mm, preferably between 1 mm and 3 mm.

[0021] In this respect, the Applicant indicates that, with equivalent porosity, manufacturing a stable solid composition is:

[0022] - easy in the presence of small cavities, for example those present in solid substrates where the porosity is a consequence of the introduction of a gas during the manufacturing process, like what is described in US 8,349,341, but

[0023] - much more difficult in the presence of macroporosities such as those considered in the present invention.

[0024] The presence of cavities in the contents and / or volumes and / or dimensions considered above makes it possible to access solid compositions that require less raw materials while still having satisfactory gripping properties. A solid composition according to the invention is therefore capable of generating less loss. This weight saving also has the advantage of allowing less polluting and less expensive transport. A solid composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous both ecologically and economically.

[0025] Furthermore, the inventors observed an unexpected effect in terms of texture and transformative effect when a solid composition according to the invention is placed in the presence of an aqueous phase. Indeed, the inventors observed that a solid composition according to the invention, in contact with an aqueous phase, produces a greater quantity of foam more quickly than with a solid composition of the same size and volume but without a cavity, or even exhibits faster transformation kinetics between the original solid state to a liquid state, for example of the gel or cream type.Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the presence of cavity(ies) within the solid composition makes it possible to facilitate the transition to a viscous liquid composition, for example when the solid composition is mixed with the hands, or allows an increase in the contact surface with the aqueous phase, in particular water, and therefore better hydration of said solid composition.

[0026] Thus, the invention even makes it possible to adjust the speed at which the solid composition will foam, swell and / or melt, by adjusting the surface area developed at constant volume, by adjusting the percentage of porosity, and more particularly by adjusting the shape and / or the number and / or the dimensions of the cavities, or even the number of walls and / or the thickness of the walls of the cavities.

[0027] Advantageously, the size and / or volume of the cavities can be adjusted to store and / or react the right amount of water necessary to achieve a final liquid composition with satisfactory / expected properties, or even optimized and / or homogeneous properties (i.e. between different single doses), for example in terms of viscosity, hydration, comfort when spreading, amount of foam formed and / or transformative effect.

[0028] Thus, a composition according to the invention even makes it possible to access evanescent compositions, namely those capable of transforming into liquid compositions, in particular in the form of gels or creams, upon contact with an adequate quantity of water.

[0029] Finally, the advantages described above in terms of the ability to foam and / or transform into a liquid composition may also require lower water consumption, which constitutes an additional advantage from an ecological and economic point of view. The solid nature of a composition according to the invention may be based on a phase consisting mainly, or even entirely, of a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent (also referred to hereinafter as “solid fatty phase”).

[0030] Also, the solid nature of a composition according to the invention may be based on a phase deriving from a saponification reaction (or “pasting”), and therefore result from the transformation of a fatty phase comprising at least one oil, preferably vegetable, under the action of soda and where appropriate heat (also referred to below as “soap phase”).

[0031] Also, the solid character of a composition according to the invention may be based on a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (also referred to hereinafter as “SYNDET phase”). By way of illustration, it is CETYL ALCOHOL, in whole or in part, which contributes to giving a SYNDET its solid character.

[0032] The solid nature of a composition according to the invention may therefore be based on (i) a solid fatty phase, (ii) a soap phase and / or (iii) a SYNDET phase. In the remainder of the description, the “solid fatty phase”, the “soap phase” and the “SYNDET phase” may commonly be designated by the expression “solid phase”.

[0033] Thus, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid phase.

[0034] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is single-phase, and therefore formed from the solid phase only.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in the solid phase, in particular as defined below.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

[0037] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a single-dose composition.

[0038] This embodiment is particularly advantageous from a hygienic point of view in that it avoids repeated contact between the solid composition and the surface to be treated.

[0039] Thus, the invention also relates to a packaging comprising several solid compositions according to the invention in the form of single doses, for example of different perfume, shape, color and / or active ingredient / cosmetic effect.

[0040] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a topical composition. A composition according to the invention is not an oral composition. The invention thus relates to a solid cosmetic composition dedicated to the hygiene, cleaning and / or beautification of a keratin material.

[0041] A solid composition according to the invention may have any shape, for example a spherical, ellipsoidal, tetrahedral, or even polygonal shape, in particular in the shape of a parallelogram, preferably a right-angled parallelogram.

[0042] Preferably, in particular to ensure good grip, a solid composition according to the invention has:

[0043] - a width, or even a diameter, of between 1 cm and 10 cm, preferably between 2 cm and 8 cm, in particular between 3 cm and 6 cm, and better still between 4 cm and 5 cm; and / or

[0044] - a height (or thickness) between 0.5 cm and 5 cm, preferably between 1 cm and 4 cm, and in particular between 2 cm and 3 cm.

[0045] The cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention may be of any shape, for example round, oblong, ovoid, triangular, polygonal, in particular hexagonal, honeycomb, or in the form of a tiling (or cutting), for example of the Voronoi diagram type, preferably in the form of a honeycomb, as illustrated in figures 3 and 6.

[0046] The cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention may also represent letters or the logo of a brand or company, as illustrated in Figure 2.

[0047] A solid composition according to the invention comprises one or more cavities, preferably several cavities, identical or different.

[0048] According to a first variant, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cavity, in particular a through cavity.

[0049] According to a second preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises several cavities, in particular through cavities, as illustrated in figures 3 and 6.

[0050] The cavities are through, advantageously along an axis x - x'.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least two cavities connected to each other. Such an embodiment is advantageous because it makes it possible to promote capillarity phenomena when brought into contact with water, which makes it possible to improve the aforementioned technical effects.

[0052] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention comprises several cavities which adopt a honeycomb-shaped structure, as illustrated in Figure 3. This honeycomb shape is particularly advantageous in that it allows the manufacture of a solid composition with a very advantageous “volume of the cavity(ies) / total volume of the composition” ratio, in particular greater than or equal to 0.5, or even greater than or equal to 0.75, without prejudice to the gripping and robustness of said composition to the mechanical stresses likely to be applied to it and / or to storage. In other words, this honeycomb structure offers an excellent compromise between cavity volume and mechanical strength.

[0053] Advantageously, the cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention comprises / comprise walls having a thickness of between 10 μm and 1,500 μm, preferably between 20 μm and 1,000 μm, in particular between 30 μm and 750 μm, very particularly between 50 μm and 500 μm, or even between 100 μm and 400 μm. In particular, the cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention comprises / comprise walls having a thickness of between 250 μm and 500 μm.

[0054] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention comprises several cavities which adopt a honeycomb-shaped structure comprising walls having a thickness of between 10 pm and 600 pm, preferably between 20 pm and 500 pm, in particular between 30 pm and 400 pm, very particularly between 50 pm and 300 pm, or even between 100 pm and 200 pm.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention, in particular when it adopts a honeycomb-type configuration as described above, may comprise a plurality of sections, in particular polygonal sections, each of the sections defining a fracturable perimeter allowing the separation of at least one section from the rest of the solid composition. Thus, according to this embodiment, each section of the solid composition corresponds to a single dose.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise additional patterns distinct from the cavities, said patterns being able for example to be produced by embossing.

[0057] A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible constituent compound(s) of a composition according to the invention and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not or are not substantially altered. Also, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or the quantity of compound(s) with regard to the solid, or even anhydrous, nature when considered, of said composition and / or the manufacturing process. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. In particular, a composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from at least one wax, at least one pasty fatty substance, at least one butter, and mixtures thereof, for example as described in WO2021 / 234135.

[0058] Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a heat-sensitive gelling agent, i.e. one which reacts to heat, and in particular is a gelling agent which is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 60°C, and better still above 70°C. Preferably, a heat-sensitive lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention has a melting point of between 50°C and 130°C, and preferably between 60°C and 120°C.

[0059] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, and better still from 40% to 60%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one unsaturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acid, preferably C1-C22, in particular C8-C20, and better still C12-C18, such as for example lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C18), stearic acid (C19), ricinoleic acid (C19), and mixtures thereof.

[0061] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil, in particular a vegetable oil, such as for example copra oil, coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, castor oil, babassu oil, and mixtures thereof. Examples of oils that may be mentioned are those described in WO2021 / 234135.

[0062] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, and better still from 40% to 60%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one detergent agent, for example a surfactant, in particular chosen from Sodium cocoyl isethionate, Sulfosuccinates, Alpha oleficategories, Alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate, Sodium cocoyl monoglyceride sulfate, Betaine, and mixtures thereof. This is particularly the case when the composition according to the invention is a SYNDET (which derives from the term "synthetic detergents") also known as "soap-free soap" or "dermatological bar".

[0064] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive, at least one oil and / or at least one detergent agent, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] According to a first variant, a composition according to the invention is anhydrous. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" is intended to denote a composition which, before any contact with water, comprises a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and in particular less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. This is particularly the case when a composition according to the invention is a SYNDET.

[0066] According to a second variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. This is particularly the case when a composition according to the invention is a soap or when the oily (or fatty) phase further comprises at least one dispersed aqueous phase, for example in encapsulated form such as for example in the form of matrix spheres (or pearls or beads) or of core / shell type (or capsules), for example in the form of capsules as described in WO2010 / 063937.

[0067] Thus, a solid composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

[0068] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the dispersed aqueous phase may then be between 0.5% and 50%, preferably between 1% and 40%, in particular between 2.5% and 30%, and better still between 5% and 20%, by weight relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0069] A composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, or even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the aforementioned lipophilic gelling agents, oils and / or detergent agents.

[0070] A composition according to the invention may further comprise powders; glitter; coloring agents, in particular chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic coloring agents, materials with an optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase; perfuming agents; fillers, of organic or mineral nature, and in particular pigments; preservatives; humectants; effervescent agents; disintegrants (e.g. Croscarmellose, carboxymethylcellulose, etc.); diluents; disintegration promoters; stabilizers; chelators; emollients; modifying agents chosen from texturizing agents (or gelling agents) and in particular hydrophilic gelling agents, pH, osmotic force and / or refractive index modifiers, etc., or any usual cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one effervescent agent and / or at least one disintegrant.

[0072] Preferably, the composition comprises between 0.5% and 50%, in particular between 1% and 40%, and better still between 5% and 30%, by weight of disintegrant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] A disintegrating agent may be chosen from sodium starch glycosates; starch, in particular wheat starch or corn starch; pregelatinized or partially pregelatinized starches; sodium carboxymethyl starch, optionally low substituted; starches composed of lactose and corn starch particles; starches composed of starch and pea; starches composed of starch and potato; starches composed of starch and wheat; mannitol-based disintegrants; crystalline cellulose; microcrystalline cellulose or a mixture of microcrystalline cellulose with xanthan gum; sodium carboxymethylcellulose; croscarmellose calcium; croscarmellose sodium; ethylcellulose; substituted hydroxypropyl cellulose; hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose; crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone; crosslinked polyacrylates, alginic acid and its derivatives, for example sodium alginate; and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one diluent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of microcrystalline cellulose, mannitol, lactose, starch, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises a content of less than 8%, or even less than 5%, by weight of diluent(s) relative to the total weight of the solid composition.

[0075] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one disintegration promoter, preferably calcium silicate.

[0076] A composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, or even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may further comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active ingredient chosen from moisturizing agents, vitamins, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active ingredients stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermo-contracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] As hydrophilic gelling agents, we can cite those described in FR3041251.

[0078] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least sodium lactate and / or at least one salt. Such ingredients have the particular advantage of hardening the soap.

[0079] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one solvent capable of evaporating in whole or in part during the manufacturing process, as described below. As a solvent, mention may for example be made of an apolar or slightly polar organic solvent, for example cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran), and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compound(s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. Also, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or the quantity of additional compound(s) according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered and / or with regard to the manufacturing process of the composition. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0081] When the composition according to the invention is a soap and / or a shampoo, said composition advantageously satisfies at least one of the criteria (or indices) among those defined below:

[0082] - the composition has a cleaning power between 12 and 22, the higher number means that the soap will be more cleaning;

[0083] - the composition has a Hardness index between 29 and 54, the higher number indicating a harder soap and the lower number indicating a softer soap;

[0084] - the composition has an Emollience index between 44 and 69;

[0085] - the composition has a Foaming Power between 14 and 46, the higher number indicating larger bubbles and the lower number indicating smaller bubbles;

[0086] - the composition has a Smoothness index between 16 and 48;

[0087] - the composition has an iodine index between 41 and 70; and / or

[0088] - the composition has an INS (Iodine Number Saponification) between 136 and 170, preferably between 150 and 165.

[0089] The above criteria (or indices), as well as their measurement method, fall within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0090] The solid nature of a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to do without conventional packaging. Indeed, the packaging of a solid composition according to the invention can be limited to simple wrapping in paper.

[0091] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention does not consist of a network of fibers.

[0092] Preferably, a solid composition according to the invention does not comprise polyvinyl alcohol (PVA or PVOH), polyacrylate, copolymer of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyalkylene oxide, polyacrylonitrile (PES or PAN), polyethylene terephthalate methacrylate, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, hyaluronic acid, starch and its derivatives, pullulan, gelatin, cellulose (e.g. rayon), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cotton, and a mixture thereof.

[0093] A composition according to the invention does not comprise (or is not based on) a water-soluble solid support, for example of the hydrogel type, in particular based on starch, where appropriate destructured, and / or poloxamer 407.

[0094] Manufacturing process

[0095] A composition according to the invention is obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art suitable for the manufacture of a solid composition, subject to the necessary adaptations to ensure the formation of cavities and therefore satisfy the required porosity criterion.

[0096] Preferably, the method for manufacturing a solid composition according to the invention does not include a step of aeration / injection of a gas, for example air, where appropriate followed by a step of forming and then drying.

[0097] Process No. 1

[0098] According to a first variant, a method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0099] (i) have a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0100] (ii) pouring the composition into a mold and drying until a solid composition is obtained,

[0101] (iii) cutting the solid composition into the desired shape, and

[0102] (iv) forming cavities to obtain a solid composition according to the invention.

[0103] In particular, this method of manufacturing a composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0104] (i) have a fatty phase, a phase deriving from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (i.e. SYNDET phase), in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0105] (ii) pouring the phase from step (i) into a mold and drying until a solid phase is obtained,

[0106] (iii) cutting the solid phase into the desired shape, and

[0107] (iv) forming cavities, whereby a composition according to the invention is obtained.

[0108] According to a particular embodiment, such a manufacturing process is a saponification (or “pasting”) process.

[0109] Step (i) is advantageously carried out hot.

[0110] Advantageously, steps (iii) and (iv) are simultaneous.

[0111] Advantageously, steps (ii), (iii) and (iv) are simultaneous, in which case the mold has a shape adapted to ensure the formation of the cavity(ies).

[0112] Step (iv) is advantageously carried out using a cookie cutter.

[0113] Process No. 1 is advantageous in that the scraps obtained at the end of step (iv) can be recovered during subsequent production. In fact, these scraps can be heated again and reintroduced into a subsequent process No. 1 at step (i) and / or (ii).

[0114] Advantageously, in particular when the composition according to the invention is a soap and / or a shampoo, a process according to the invention may further comprise, before step (ii), at least one washing step, in order to remove the remaining soda. Process No. 2

[0115] According to a second variant, a method of manufacturing a composition according to the invention is an extrusion method.

[0116] Such a manufacturing method according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0117] (a) have a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0118] (b) passing the composition of step (a) through an extrusion device provided with a die (or extrusion grid) of a shape suitable for forming a solid bar, and

[0119] (c) cutting the bar obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to the invention.

[0120] In particular, this method of manufacturing a composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0121] (a) have a fatty phase, a phase deriving from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (i.e. SYNDET phase), in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0122] (b) passing the phase of step (a) through an extrusion device provided with a die (or extrusion grid) of suitable shape to form a solid bar, and

[0123] (c) cutting the solid bar obtained in step (b), whereby a composition according to the invention is obtained.

[0124] For obvious reasons, step (b) is carried out at a temperature suitable for providing a composition with sufficient viscosity and capable of retaining the shape assigned by the die.

[0125] For obvious reasons, the shape of the die of the extrusion device is also adapted to ensure the formation of the cavity(ies).

[0126] Advantageously, step (b) is carried out at a temperature lower than room temperature, and for example at a temperature lower than or equal to 15°C, or even lower than or equal to 10°C.

[0127] At step (b), the extrusion device comprises a die having a shape adapted to form the desired cavity(ies) and level of porosity in the solid bar.

[0128] By way of illustration, an extrusion method according to the invention comprises a die such as that illustrated in Figure 4.

[0129] Step (c) can be done using a knife or a wire, such as a butter cutter.

[0130] Preferably, steps (b) and (c) are simultaneous.

[0131] Preferably, the method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention is extrusion method no. 2 described above.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, applicable to processes No. 1 and No. 2 described previously, step (i) / (a) consists of having a fluid composition which may comprise at least one solvent capable of evaporating in whole or in part during step (ii) / (b), or even further during step (iii) and / or (iv) / (c).

[0133] As a solvent, we can for example cite a non-polar or slightly polar organic solvent, for example cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran), and their mixture.

[0134] In processes No. 1 and No. 2 above, when the composition comprises at least one fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent, step (i) / (a) may require heating said composition to a temperature above the highest melting point of the lipophilic gelling agents present in said composition.

[0135] According to a particular embodiment, extrusion process no. 2 can be carried out using a 3D printing technique.

[0136] Use

[0137] A composition according to the invention is dedicated to the hygiene and / or beautification of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair.

[0138] In particular, a composition according to the invention is dedicated to the hygiene of a keratin material, in particular of the skin and / or hair, such as for example toothpastes, deodorants, shower gels, intimate cleansing gels, soaps, shampoos, mouthwashes, hair care products (hair dyes and bleaches), hair care products, cleaning products, shaving and depilatory products, such as for example aftershaves, depilatory creams and shaving creams, bath and shower preparations, such as for example bubble baths, bath oils and bath salts. Preferably, a solid composition according to the invention is a soap and / or a shampoo.

[0139] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention is not in the form of a mask.

[0140] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention is intended to be brought into contact with an aqueous phase, in particular water before, simultaneously and / or after its application to the keratin material to be treated.

[0141] Thus, according to a first embodiment, in particular when a composition according to the invention is of the single-dose type, contact with water is extemporaneous, that is to say just before use and / or simultaneously if applied to a wet keratin material.

[0142] According to a second embodiment, when a composition according to the invention is not of the single-dose type, contact with water is carried out during the first use only, and assumes packaging of the “solid composition / water” mixture in a suitable receptacle. For obvious reasons, this requires a solid composition of suitable formula and a sufficient quantity of water to ensure the transition from a solid composition to a liquid composition, for example in the form of a gel. Also, this requires the presence in the solid composition of at least one preservative to guarantee good preservation over time of the liquid composition thus formed.

[0143] Finally, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the hygiene and / or beautification of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition as defined above.

[0144] DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0145] Figure 1 represents a composition according to the invention of parallelepiped shape provided with a cylindrical cavity. A corresponds to the side view and B corresponds to the top view.

[0146] Figure 2 represents a composition according to the invention of ovoid shape provided with cavities (top view), representing the word “SOAP”.

[0147] Figure 3 represents a composition according to the invention provided with honeycomb cavities (top view).

[0148] Figure 4 represents a die used for the process of the invention.

[0149] Figure 5 represents a comparative chain.

[0150] Figure 6 represents other examples of solid compositions according to the invention.

[0151] EXAMPLES

[0152] Using a mixer and a bain-marie at 80°C, mix the raw materials in the order and quantities described in the following table until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0153] Step 1 - manufacturing:

[0154] - In a first container, mix the water and the caustic soda (= mixture A);

[0155] - In a second container, melt and mix the coconut oil and shea butter in a bain-marie (70°C), then add the olive oil and mix until homogenized (= mixture B);

[0156] - When the temperature of mixtures A and B is lower than 40°C, mixture A is poured into mixture B and the sweet almond oil is added, then mixed until homogenized (= mixture C), and

[0157] - Mixture C is left to stand for 48 hours at room temperature. The pH of the composition is between 9 and 10.

[0158] Step 2 - Extrusion:

[0159] - The mixture C obtained in step 1 is injected into an extruder provided, in a first case, with a die according to the invention as illustrated in figure 4 and in a second case, with a comparative die as illustrated in figure 5;

[0160] - At the outlet of the die, the extruded bars of soap are cut to obtain the weights and volumes described in table 1 below.

[0161] - Single-dose soaps are obtained, respectively, in the form of a solid composition according to the invention with a honeycomb structure (soap 1, for example like those described in figure 6) and a comparative solid composition with a general shape identical to soap 1 but without a cavity (soaps 2 and 3).

[0162] Step 3 - Application:

[0163] Stage 3 is carried out on a panel of 18 women and 18 men between 22 and 47 years old (hereinafter the “candidates”), 3 groups then being formed, each group being made up of 6 women and 6 men (groups A, B and C).

[0164] For each group:

[0165] 3.1 / Candidates pour a glass filled with 30 cl of tap water over both hands.

[0166] 3.2 / Then, the candidates wash their hands with soap 1, 2 or 3.

[0167] 3.3 / Candidates rinse their hands with tap water and then dry their hands.

[0168] Each of groups A, B and C will use soaps 1, 2 and 3, but each time in different orders.

[0169] In this step 3, candidates evaluate the performance of soaps 1, 2 and 3 in terms of (i) gripping capacity, (ii) foaming capacity (iii) condition of the soap after use. Scoring criteria:

[0170] The average results obtained with the three groups A, B and C are presented in the following table, it being understood that the trends observed are identical between the three groups.

[0171] With classic soaps 2 and 3, we observe that when the size is too small, the grip is poor and it is difficult to handle and when it is too large, it is not possible to consume it completely during single-dose use which generates a lot of waste.

[0172] The soap according to the invention 1 makes it possible to combine the advantages of classic soaps 2 and 3 without their disadvantages.

[0173] A composition according to the invention, thanks to the presence of cavities in the contents considered, makes it possible to access solid compositions capable of generating more foams with less material while generating less loss, and this without prejudice to the gripping properties. A solid composition according to the invention is therefore less greedy in raw materials and is therefore advantageous both ecologically and economically. A study similar to that described above was also carried out with a

[0174] SYNDET (also known as “soap-free soap” or “dermatological bar”), described in the table below. Identical results were obtained.

[0175] * Sufficient Quantity For

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Solid cosmetic composition intended for the hygiene, cleansing and / or beautification of a keratinous material comprising at least one cavity such that said composition comprises a porosity greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

2. Solid composition according to claim 1, wherein the porosity is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40%, in particular greater than or equal to 50%, or even greater than or equal to 60%, in particular greater than or equal to 70%, and most particularly greater than or equal to 80%, by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

3. Solid composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the cavity(ies) is / are through-hole(s).

4. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising one or more cavities, preferably several cavities, identical or different.

5. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cavity(ies) are round, oblong, ovoid, triangular, polygonal, honeycomb, or in the form of a tiling (or cutting), for example of the Voronoi diagram type, preferably in the form of a honeycomb.

6. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio between the volume of the cavity(ies) and the total volume of the composition is between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better between 0.2 and 0.7, or even between 0.2 and 0.

6.

7. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least one gelling agent lipophilic, preferably thermosensitive, at least one oil and / or at least one detergent agent, and mixtures thereof.

8. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition further comprises at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

9. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition is a single-dose composition.

10. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition is a topical composition.

11. A method for manufacturing a solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least the steps of: (i) have a fatty phase, a phase derived from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (i.e. SYNDET phase), in liquid or semi-liquid form,; (ii) pour the phase from step (i) into a mold and dry until a solid phase is obtained, (iii) cut the solid phase into the desired shape, and (iv) forming cavities, thereby obtaining a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. A method for manufacturing a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least the steps of: (a) have a fatty phase, a phase derived from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (i.e. SYNDET phase), in liquid or semi-liquid form; (b) passing the phase of step (a) through an extrusion device equipped with a die (or extrusion grid) of suitable shape to form a solid bar, and (c) cutting the solid bar obtained in step (b), thereby obtaining a solid according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

13. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the hygiene and / or beautification of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin and / or hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

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