Mineral oil-free, mechanically stable lipstick
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2023736039
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-07-11
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-27
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-21
AI Technical Summary
The production of mineral oil-free, natural-based lipsticks often results in significant waste due to breakage and cracking during the manufacturing process, and existing stable formulations compromise on sensory-tactile properties like suppleness and gliding ability.
A lipstick composition combining beeswax, rapeseed wax, and sunflower oil from hybrids with specific oleic acid, acid value, and peroxide value profiles, along with additional ingredients like ascorbyl palmitate and lecithin, which are processed to maintain mechanical stability and sensory properties.
The lipstick formulation significantly reduces production waste while retaining suppleness and gliding ability, as evidenced by a needle penetration test, and excludes harmful ingredients.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Description
[0002] Mineral oil-free, mechanically stable lipstick
[0003] The present invention relates to a lipstick containing a combination of beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba), rapeseed wax (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) and sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil).
[0004] The desire to look beautiful and attractive has been ingrained in humankind for thousands of years. Although the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a goal for humans, as a likeable appearance increases their self-esteem and their attraction to others.
[0005] The term decorative cosmetics derives from the Latin "decoratio" - "to highlight what is beautiful." Typically, colorants are used to highlight specific parts of the body, especially the face, and to soften color inconsistencies.
[0006] In addition to face powders and rouge as powdered cosmetics and stick-shaped preparations, cream-like preparations such as day creams and emulsion-based cream make-up are also used.
[0007] Lipstick is one of the most widely used decorative cosmetics. More than 50% of women in Germany wear it. In addition to adding color to the lips, it also typically serves as a lip care product.
[0008] Lipsticks typically consist of a wax matrix into which high concentrations of liquid and semi-solid oils, pigments, and fillers are incorporated. They come in solid stick form.
[0009] A disadvantage of the current state of the art is the fact that a relatively large proportion of lipstick production is waste. This phenomenon occurs particularly frequently with lipsticks made from natural raw materials, i.e., free from petroleum jelly, paraffins, mineral oils, silicone oils, and silicone waxes. Lipsticks are usually manufactured using the mold-casting process. The hot, liquid preparation is poured into stick molds and then cooled and hardened. During the subsequent removal of the hardened stick blanks from the mold and filling of the packaging container, breaks and cracks in the stick mass repeatedly occur. This production waste increases the effort and cost of lipstick production.
[0010] It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a lipstick (in particular based on natural raw materials) in the production of which the amount of this waste is reduced.
[0011] To assess the risk of breakage and cracking during production, even during product development, the needle penetration test can be used in the laboratory. In this test, two needles of different thicknesses are pressed into the pin mass under constant force, and the penetration depth is determined. Particularly robust pins are characterized by the fact that the penetration depth of the different needle thicknesses differs as little as possible. The procedure is described in more detail below.
[0012] In addition to stability against mechanical stress during production, it is also important that the cosmetic properties of lipsticks are maintained. In particular, the smoothness and glideability when applied to the lips must be maintained. However, hard sticks that are resistant to mechanical stress during production have the disadvantage of no longer exhibiting this smoothness and glideability.
[0013] Therefore, the object of the present invention was to develop a lipstick whose sensory-tactile properties, particularly with regard to smoothness and gliding ability during application, are retained without leading to high scrap rates during production.
[0014] Surprisingly, the tasks are solved by a lipstick containing a combination of a) beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba), b) rapeseed wax (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) and c) sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil, CAS No. 164250-88-8).
[0015] According to the invention, the lipstick is advantageously characterized in that the sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) has an oleic acid content (C18:1) of 60% to 95%, measured according to IUPAC 2.304. According to the invention, an oleic acid content of 70% to 90%, measured according to IUPAC 2.304, is preferred. Conventional sunflower oils, in contrast, have an oleic acid content (C18:1) of approximately 14% to 40%, measured according to IUPAC 2.304.
[0016] Advantageous embodiments within the meaning of the present invention are also characterized in that the sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) has an acid value of a maximum of 0.22 mg KOH / g, measured according to IUPAC 2.201 (m). An acid value of a maximum of 0.2 mg KOH / g, measured according to IUPAC 2.201 (m), is preferred according to the invention.
[0017] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) has a peroxide value of not more than 1.1 meq / kg, measured according to AOCS Cd8b-90 (m). A peroxide value of not more than 1.0 meq / kg, measured according to AOCS Cd8b-90 (m), is preferred according to the invention.
[0018] Advantageous embodiments of the lipstick according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains ascorbyl palmitate.
[0019] According to the invention, an ascorbyl palmitate content of 0.01 to 0.05% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is advantageous.
[0020] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the lipstick preparation contains lecithin.
[0021] A lecithin content of 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is advantageous according to the invention.
[0022] Advantageous embodiments of the lipstick according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba) in a concentration of 10 to 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. A content of 13 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.
[0023] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the lipstick preparation contains rapeseed wax (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) in a concentration of 8 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. A content of 11 to 13% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.
[0024] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the lipstick preparation contains sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) in a concentration of 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. A content of 65 to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention. Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter). In such a case, it is preferred according to the invention if the preparation contains shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) in a concentration of 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0025] It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains tocopherol. This can be used in a concentration of 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0026] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also obtained in that the preparation is free from 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate), 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone), methyl anthralinate (INCI: Methyl Anthraliate) and sulisobenzone (INCI: Benzophenone-4), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters (so-called PEG derivatives), is free from polyacrylates and is free from parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin.
[0027] In particular, it is advantageous according to the invention if the lipstick preparation is free from petroleum jelly, paraffins, mineral oils, silicone oils and silicone waxes.
[0028] Lipsticks advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the difference in penetration depth in the needle penetration test with the electronic gravity penetrometer Petrotest PNR 10 between a normal needle 2.5g (order no. 18-0063 Petrotest Instruments) and a conical needle 2.5g (order no. 18-0081 Petrotests Instruments) with a penetration time of 5 seconds at 20°C is less than 1.8 mm.
[0029] Needle penetration is generally a consistency test for highly viscous, deformable substances. A needle-shaped or conical test specimen is placed on the surface of a sample using a drop rod (clamping and guiding shaft), in this case a 47.5g (order no. 18-0042 Petrotests Instruments), so that it penetrates the test material under its own weight over a specified period of time. The penetration depth of the test specimen is measured in millimeters and is a measure of plasticity or consistency.
[0030] The test was conducted using the Petrotest PNR 10 electronic gravity penetrometer. For the application in the testing of lip balms, the test specimen (the lip balm in its packaging) is placed on the test surface. The test specimens, in this case two different needles (see above), are first clamped into the drop rod (see above), then placed on the surface of the lip balm, and finally dropped by a trigger. Over a specified period of 5 seconds, the test specimen penetrates the mass of the lip balm under its own weight (drop rod + needle). After this time, the penetration depth can be read.
[0031] In addition, the lipstick according to the invention can contain the ingredients typical for such products, for example dyes, flavorings, UV filters, etc.
[0032] Thus, it is preferred according to the invention if the preparation of the lipstick contains one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate), 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine) and 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane).
[0033] According to the invention, the use of a combination of 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) is particularly preferred.
[0034] Last but not least, the invention relates to the process for producing a lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that all components are melted while stirring, then poured into a mold at a temperature of approximately 57°C to 63°C and finally removed after the mold has been cooled together with the poured mass at 17°C to 23°C for a defined period of time.
[0035] Comparison test
[0036] The following formulations were prepared and needle penetration was determined according to the inventive method described above.
[0037] Needle penetration test
[0038] Difference normal needle / conical needle:
[0039] Recipe 1 : 12.1 1 mm Recipe 2: 2.13 mm
[0040] Recipe 3: 1.47 mm Examples
[0041] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations.
Claims
Patent claims 1 . Lipstick containing a combination of a) beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba), b) rapeseed wax (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) and c) sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil).
2. Lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) has an oleic acid content (C18:1) of 60% to 95%, measured according to IUPAC 2.
304.
3. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) has an acid value of maximum 0.22 mg KOH / g, measured according to IUPAC 2.201 (m).
4. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) has a peroxide value of maximum 1.1 meq / kg, measured according to AOCS Cd8b-90 (m).
5. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains ascorbyl palmitate.
6. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains lecithin.
7. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba) in a concentration of 10 to 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
8. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains rapeseed wax (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) in a concentration of 8 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
9. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains sunflower oil obtained from sunflower hybrids (INCI Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) in a concentration of 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
10. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii butter). 11 . Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) in a concentration of 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains tocopherol. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate), 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone), methyl anthralinate (INCI: Methyl Anthraliate) and sulisobenzone (INCI: Benzophenone-4), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters (so-called PEG derivatives), is free from polyacrylates and is free from parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from petroleum jelly, paraffins, mineral oils, silicone oils and silicone waxes.Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the difference in penetration depth in the needle penetration test between a normal needle and a conical needle with a penetration time of 5 seconds at 20°C is less than 1.8 mm. Lipstick according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation of the lipstick contains one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate), 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine) and 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane).A process for producing a lipstick according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that all components are melted while stirring, then poured into a mold at a temperature of approximately 57°C to 63°C and finally removed after the mold has been cooled together with the poured mass at 17°C to 23°C for a defined period of time.