An improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile and process of manufacturing

Abstract

The present invention relates to an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile and process of manufacturing the same. The invention generally relates to terry cloth and it's made-up and methods of manufacturing the same. In particular, this disclosure is directed to methods of manufacturing terry cloth with high bulk, high absorbency, soft hand feel, low lint generation, and high durability. The process may include the steps of spinning step, weaving step, wet processing step, and made-up step. The present terry structure High absorbency, Soft hand feel, High bulk, Low lint generation and High durability end-to-end construction refers to using combination of different yarns (zero-twist, low-twist, and high-twist) in pile with different recurrence to achieve all the attributes. The zero-twist yarn in the pile provides the bulky look, absorbency and soft feel, and the high twist yarn provides the durability and reduces the lint generation. The low-twist yarn balance the attributes of zero-twist and high-twist yarn.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile and process of manufacturing the same. The description herein generally relates to terry cloth and it's made-up and methods of manufacturing the same. In particular, this disclosure is directed to methods of manufacturing terry cloth with high bulk, high absorbency, soft hand feel, low lint generation, and high durability.BACKGROUND

[0002] Terry fabrics are a type of pile fabric characterized by the introduction of an extra yarn that forms loops, known as "piles," creating a unique texture and appearance. These fabrics can be manufactured through either weaving or knitting processes.

[0003] Traditional terry towels are typically made from pure cotton or a blend of cotton and poly cotton yarns. This preference stems from cotton's affordability and its excellent absorbency. Cotton-based towels offer several benefits, such as durability, effective moisture absorption, and widespread availability. However, they also have notable drawbacks. One major issue is the slow release of absorbed moisture, which leads to longer drying times. This challenge becomes more pronounced with the use of thicker, heavier yarns, further increasing drying time. Prolonged drying intervals reduce the frequency of towel use, encourage sour odors and mildew growth, and raise energy consumption during drying. Additionally, the bulkiness of heavier towels limits the number that can be accommodated in a single washing machine load.

[0004] In the field of textile production, terry-type cloth products are designed using a specific method. These products consist of ground fill and ground warp that interlace to form the base structure, or ground, of the fabric. The ground features both a top and a bottom surface. Extending from this base is the pile warp, which is composed of multiple sets of pile yarns. Each set contains several individual pile yarns, contributing to the characteristic looped texture of terry fabrics.

[0005] Fabrics utilized in applications like toweling, rugs, bedding, and leisure products are often engineered to enhance their absorbent properties. Towels, for instance, are typically thick textiles featuring a piled (looped) surface on one or both sides. The thickness of a towel is usually associated with a deeper pile, which increases its surface area and contributes to its absorbency.

[0006] An increased surface area generally enhances the fabric's absorption capabilities. For instance, when a terry towel comes into contact with a water droplet, the pile loops initially capture the droplet by channeling it into the spaces between the fibers within the yarn. The water is then distributed along the length of the pile and absorbed into the fabric's ground weave. Additionally, once the water penetrates the yarn, it may be further absorbed into the lumen of the cotton fibers. The density of the fibers within the yarn significantly influences its drying efficiency, which subsequently affects its capacity to absorb additional water.

[0007] Woven fabrics typically consist of two sets of yarns: the warp and the weft. However, terry fabrics are generally constructed using three sets of yarns. The first set, known as the ground warp, is a longitudinal set that forms the base structure of the fabric. The second set, called the pile warp, consists of longitudinal warp yarns that create the looped piles on the fabric surface. The third set, the weft yarn, runs transversely, interlacing with both the ground and pile warps to complete the fabric structure. Any of these yarn sets or the fabric as a whole can be designed to enhance water absorption.

[0008] Cellulose fibers, particularly cotton, are often favored for their numerous beneficial qualities, including softness, excellent absorbency, and sustainability. However, there is ongoing interest in enhancing the absorptive capabilities of fabrics used in applications such as towels, rugs, bedding, and leisure materials.

[0009] Lint is a soft material composed of small fibers and scraps of yarn, commonly originating from linen or cotton. Towels, which are often made entirely from cotton yarns in the ground warp, pile loops, and interlacing weft, tend to generate a significant amount of lint as a result.

[0010] The degree of twisting in the yarn influences both the properties of the towel and the amount of lint it produces. Typically, the pile yarn is a low-twist yarn, as the pile loops it forms offer a larger surface area for water absorption. The low twist enhances the yarn's wicking ability, aiding in moisture uptake. In contrast, the ground warp and weft yarns are usually more tightly twisted than the pile yarn.

[0011] Pile fabrics are produced for a variety of applications, including towels, terry cloths, cleaning products, carpets, and more. These fabrics are valued for their light weight, softness, ability to trap particles, and moisture absorption properties. In the case of towels and terry fabrics, there is an increasing demand to enhance moisture absorption, reduce drying times, and create fabrics that also offer an appealing aesthetic and tactile experience.

[0012] The production of pile yarns, warp yarns, and / or weft yarns may involve doubling or plying two or more yarns together. In the case of pile yarn used in towels or terry fabrics, doubling typically includes twisting a non-water-soluble yarn (such as cotton) with a water-soluble yarn (like polyvinyl alcohol, or PVA). This combination results in a 2-ply yarn that offers enhanced strength, allowing it to withstand higher tension during the weaving process. In some instances, the non-water-soluble yarn and the water-soluble yarn are twisted in opposite directions. After weaving, the water-soluble yarn or fiber is dissolved, leaving behind a fabric made entirely from the non-water-soluble yarn.

[0013] In the production of terry fabrics, characteristics such as low twist and increased thickness or bulk are highly valued. Furthermore, manufacturers consistently strive to enhance the tactile feel and aesthetic qualities of terry fabrics, aiming to improve both their functionality and visual appeal.

[0014] Pile fabrics pose unique challenges in terms of aesthetic qualities, as it is crucial to maintain consistent visual characteristics across the entire fabric. While traditional methods for patterning pile fabrics include surface printing, jacquard weaving, or knitting processes, there is a growing need for advancements in pile fabric manufacturing technologies to further enhance both the aesthetic and tactile properties of the fabric.

[0015] It has been observed that as the number of ends per inch or picks per inch increases, typically due to finer yarn counts, the cover factor also increases. In towels, however, yarn counts are generally coarser, and the number of ends and picks per inch is limited to maintain a balanced towel weight, often measured in grams per square meter (GSM). As a result, the cover factors in towels tend to be low. Common yarn counts used for the ground warp in towels are 2 / 20s, 2 / 24s, 10s, or 12s in English cotton number (Ne), which produce a warp cover factor ranging from 16 to 24. The typical weft count used in towels is Ne 12s or 16s, yielding a cover factor between 8.75 and 16.75.

[0016] These cover factors are considered low, meaning the fabric has considerable space between the yarns. This creates a large surface area, which enhances the towel's absorbency. However, the downside of such low cover factors is that they also lead to towels that are more prone to shedding fibers and generating lint.

[0017] Another contributor to lint is the hairiness of the yarn. In the ring spinning system, when cotton fibers are twisted, they follow a helical path, and centrifugal force during twisting causes the fiber ends to protrude from the yarn surface, resembling hairs. The more short fibers incorporated into the yarn, the hairier the yarn becomes. As the yarn becomes hairier, more fibers are likely to dislodge during washing, leading to an increased production of lint.

[0018] Cotton lint can sometimes adhere to the body of the user, which is often bothersome for those using towels. The present invention aims to address these issues by providing pile fabrics that offer enhanced tactile properties, better particle pick-up, improved moisture absorption, reduced drying time, and visually appealing aesthetic characteristics.

[0019] Terry towels are typically made from thick materials, and the thicker the towel, the larger the surface area, allowing for greater water absorption. When a towel fabric comes into contact with a water droplet, the pile loops first capture the droplet by drawing it into the spaces between the loops. The water is then absorbed within the yarn, filling the spaces between the fibers. This process is also applicable to flat fabrics. Once absorbed, the water moves into the secondary wall and lumen of the cotton fiber.

[0020] Twisting is a vital step in the yarn spinning process. First, the fibers are drafted to align them, and then they are twisted one or more times to give the yarn important properties such as strength, durability, and smoothness. False twist texturing is a particular type of twisting process. It happens when a yarn is twisted as it runs, with the twist being held in place by a roller system and a false twisting device, creating a "false twist" in the yarn.

[0021] The feed yarn usually has little to no twist, while the yarn positioned between the roller system and the false twisting device undergoes the false twist. As the yarn exits the false twisting device, it mirrors the twist of the input yarn. However, if the twisting process is altered or not properly controlled, residual torque may remain in the yarn. This residual torque can affect the rate at which the yarn breaks during the ring spinning process, ultimately influencing both the quality of the yarn and subsequent stages of production. Therefore, it is crucial to carefully control the twisting process to maintain yarn integrity.

[0022] In the textile industry, "yarn twist" refers to both the direction and degree of twist in the yarns used for weaving or knitting fabrics. It describes how the individual fibers are spiraled together and the tightness with which they are twisted. The yarn twist is crucial in influencing the fabric's appearance, drape, and functional properties, such as its texture, durability, and overall performance.

[0023] Textile mills that specialize in producing high-quality yarns play a crucial role in creating fabrics with precise yarn twists. These mills invest in advanced spinning technologies and carefully monitor twist levels throughout production to ensure consistency and accuracy. Their expertise is vital in meeting the demands of luxury fashion brands and other manufacturers dedicated to producing premium textiles. By focusing on excellence, these mills ensure that fabrics with specific yarn twists adhere to the rigorous standards required by discerning customers.

[0024] Terry towels, bathrobes, baby hoods, beach hoods, and related articles are made from terry cloth. The most desired attributes for a good terry cloth are soft hand feel, high absorbency, high bulk, low lint generation and high durability.

[0025] Among these attributes, the functional attributes are absorbency, lint generation & durability and aesthetic attributes are soft hand feel, and bulky look. Normally, either zero-twist yarn or low-twist yarn are used in pile to achieve desired bulk, soft hand feel, and absorbency. However, terry cloth made with zero-twist, or low-twist yarns causes high lint generation and are less durable.

[0026] While the terry cloth available in market made with high-twist yarn gives low lint generation and durability, they have a harsh hand feel, flat / compact look, and are less absorbent. Dual face towels are also available in the market, having one side with zero-twist or low-twist yarn and the other side is made of high-twisted yarn. Such towels give a soft hand feel, high bulk and high absorbency on one side due to the presence of zero-twist or low-twist yarn and other side has a harsh hand feel and low absorbency due to the high-twist yarn. Thus, the consumers have to choose between terry cloth articles with attributes like high bulk, soft hand feel, and high absorbency or terry cloth with low lint generation and high durability or one side with good aesthetic attributes and the other side with good functional attributes.

[0027] The reason behind this is the pile yarn used to make the terry cloth and the construction.

[0028] Typically, woven terry cloth contains three type of yarns, namely, (a) Ground yarn; (b) Weft yarn; and (c) Pile yarn, made with staple fiber of natural or synthetic origin or in combination thereof, or filament fiber from natural or synthetic origin. The synthetic fiber may be of different cross-sections.

[0029] The purpose of ground and weft is to hold the pile yarn and provide stability to the matrix.

[0030] The pile yarn is responsible for giving bulk, softness and absorbency, look and lint generation, if any.

[0031] The pile yarn may contain virgin or recycled fibers. The pile yarn comprises of fibers including, but not limited to, natural fiber (e.g., cotton, linen, hemp, kapok, nettle), or manufactured fiber from natural origin (e.g., bamboo, lyocell, viscose), or synthetic origin (e.g., sustainable polyester, recycled polyester, poly(lactic acid) (PLA), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), nylon, acrylic) with different cross-sections, or any suitable combinations thereof. The pile yarn may contain zero-twist and / or core spun yarn.

[0032] The ground warp and weft yarn may contain virgin or recycled fibers. The ground and weft yarn comprise of fibers including, but not limited to, natural fiber (e.g., cotton, linen, hemp, kapok, nettle), or manufactured fiber from natural origin (e.g., bamboo, lyocell, viscose) or synthetic origin (e.g., sustainable polyester, recycled polyester, PLA, PBT, nylon, acrylic) with different cross-section, or any suitable combinations thereof. In some cases, the synthetic fiber may be in filament form.

[0033] The staple yarn can be made using any suitable spinning techniques: Ring Spinning, Open-end or Rotor Spinning, Friction Spinning, Air-jet Spinning, Vortex Spinning, Centrifugal Spinning, Dispersion Spinning, Draw-Spinning, Flash Spinning, Flyer Spinning, Solo Spinning, Compact Spinning, Siro Spinning, Air False-Twist Wrap-Spinning.

[0034] The bulkiness, absorbency, soft hand feel, and lint generation are inversely proportional to the twist applied to the pile yarn, or in other words, directly proportional to the fiber parallel orientation in the yarn structure.

[0035] So, more parallel fiber in a yarn will give more softness, high absorbency, high bulk and more lint generation. For pile yarn with high twist, fiber inside the yarn structure are not parallel, and therefore, provide a harsher feel, flat and / or compact structure, less absorbency, and low lint generation.

[0036] On the other hand, the durability is directly proportional to the twist applied to the pile yarn. So, it is inversely proportional to parallel fiber orientation in yarn.

[0037] Mathematically, Bulky look , Absorbency , Softness and lint generation ∝ 1 / TM Durability ∝ TM where, TM = Twist Multiplier.

[0038] So, either people are making high aesthetic attribute towel by using zero / low twist yarn with high air space to obtain attributes like high bulk, soft hand feel, and absorbency while compromising the functional attributes such as lint generation and durability or making terry cloth towels with low lint generation, high durability, harsh feel, compact look and less absorbency.OBJECT OF INVENTION

[0039] The prime object of present invention is to provide an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile and process of manufacturing the same.

[0040] The another object of the present invention is to provide terry fabric that have composite twists having different category of yarn with different Twist Multiplier (TM) ranges from 1.0 to 2.4 categorized as Zero Twist, TM range from 2.5 to 3.5 categorized as Low Twist and TM range from 3.5 and higher categorized as High Twist.

[0041] The yet another object of present invention is to provide methods of manufacturing terry cloth with high bulk, high absorbency, soft hand feel, low lint generation, and high durability.

[0042] Further object of the present invention is to provide an end-to-end construction on single side or on both sides of the terry cloth that may be used to achieve the functional as well as aesthetic attributes in terry cloth.SUMMARY OF INVENTION

[0043] To overcome one or more of the above issues, the inventor(s) have developed a novel terry cloth with End to End construction in single side or both sides of the terry cloth using different yarns in pile to obtain aesthetic attributes like high bulk, soft hand feel, absorbency and functional attributes like low lint generation and high durability in a single terry cloth.

[0044] The present invention relates to an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile and process of manufacturing the same. The invention generally relates to terry cloth having selective twist in the pile and made-up of the same and methods of manufacturing the same. In particular, this disclosure is directed to methods of manufacturing terry cloth with high bulk, high absorbency, soft hand feel, low lint generation, and high durability. It illustrates a flowchart for an exemplary process for manufacturing a terry cloth, consistent with some embodiments of this disclosure. The process may include the steps of spinning step, weaving step, wet processing step, and made-up step. The process steps listed are exemplary and non-limiting. The present terry structure High absorbency, Soft hand feel, High bulk, Low lint generation and High durability.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0045] Fig. 1 illustrates a flowchart for an exemplary process for manufacturing a terry cloth, consistent with some disclosed embodiments; Fig. 2A illustrates a flowchart for an exemplary spinning step for a single yarn performed in manufacturing a terry cloth, consistent with some disclosed embodiments; Fig. 2B illustrates a flowchart for an exemplary spinning step for a double yarn performed in manufacturing a terry cloth, consistent with some disclosed embodiments; Fig. 2C illustrates a flowchart for an exemplary weaving step performed in manufacturing a terry cloth, consistent with some disclosed embodiments; Fig. 2D illustrates a flowchart for an exemplary wet processing step performed in manufacturing a terry cloth, consistent with some disclosed embodiments; and Figs. 3A-3E illustrate representative drawings for weaving pattern for optimally utilize composite twist to understand the basics of end to end construction associated with the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0046] The nature of the invention and the manner in which it works is clearly described in the complete specification. The invention has various embodiments and they are clearly described in the following pages of the complete specification. Before explaining the present invention, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited into any specific embodiment.

[0047] Alternative boundaries can be defined so long as the specified functions and relationships thereof are appropriately performed. Alternatives (including equivalents, extensions, variations, deviations, etc., of those described herein) will be apparent to persons skilled in the relevant art(s) based on the teachings contained herein. Such alternatives fall within the scope of the disclosed embodiments. Also, the words "comprising," "having," "containing," and "including," and other similar forms are intended to be equivalent in meaning and be open ended in that an item or items following any one of these words is not meant to be an exhaustive listing of such item or items, nor are they meant to be limiting to only the listed item(s). It must also be noted that as used herein and in the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.

[0048] The present disclosure is directed to using three different types of yarn -zero-twist, low-twist, and high-twist yarn in pile in different combinations and using an end-to-end construction to accommodate any two yarn combination out of three or all three yarns in the terry cloth. Various permutations and combinations of above mentioned options used to create multiple designs.

[0049] Different range of yarn count (6 s< Ne to 60 s< Ne) to make terry cloth of GSM range from 350 to 900.

[0050] Different weave designs are used in dobby as well as jacquard by three pick, four pick, five pick, six pick, seven pick, eight pick and nine pick terry weave.PROCESS FLOW CHART

[0051] Fig. 1illustrates a flowchart 100 for an exemplary process for manufacturing a terry cloth, consistent with some embodiments of this disclosure. The process may include the steps of spinning step 110, weaving step 120, wet processing step 130, and made-up step 140. The process steps listed are exemplary and non-limiting. One or more steps may be added, or removed, or one or more of the existing steps may be modified, as appropriate. Spinning → weaving → wet processing → Made-up

[0052] In some embodiments, the spinning step 110 may be based on the type of yarn. For example, for a single yarn, the spinning step 110 may comprise following sub-steps:For single yarn:

[0053] 1. Blow room 2. Card 3. Draw frame 4. Combing (optional) 5. One or two finisher draw frame 6. Speed frame 7. Ring frame 8. Winding 9. Steaming

[0054] For a double yarn, the spinning step 110 may comprise following sub-steps:For Double yarn:

[0055] 1. Blow room 2. Card 3. Draw frame 4. Combing (optional) 5. One or two finisher draw frame 6. Speed frame 7. Ring frame 8. Winding 9. Steaming 10. Parallel Winding 11. Twisting

[0056] A brief description of the sub-steps listed above for spinning single or double yarn is as below.

[0057] Blow room (sub-steps 211 or 221 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - For opening and blending of the different fibres in specific proportion send to next machine by chute feed system.

[0058] Card (sub-steps 212 or 222 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - Card machine clean all the impurities, neps and output is sliver.

[0059] Draw frame (sub-steps 213 or 223 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - To do drafting and making fiber more parallel and remove thick-thin places and hooks.

[0060] Combing (sub-steps 214 or 224 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - To remove short fiber.

[0061] Finisher draw frame (sub-steps 215 or 225 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - To do drafting and making fiber more parallel and remove thick-thin places and hooks.

[0062] Speed frame (sub-steps 216 or 226 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - To make roving which is the input material of ring frame.

[0063] Ring frame (sub-steps 217 or 227 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - To make yarn through twisting by giving draft to the in-feed Roving

[0064] Winding (sub-steps 218 or 228 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - To make bigger package.

[0065] Steaming (sub-steps 219 or 229 of Figs. 2A and 2B, respectively) - To remove the snarling and making the yarn relax and stable, a steaming treatment is provided to yarn.

[0066] Parallel winding (sub-step 230 of Fig. 2B) - To wind two yarns required for double yarn.

[0067] Twisting (sub-step 231 of Fig. 2B) - To give required twist in the yarn.

[0068] In some embodiments, the weaving step 120 of process represented by flowchart 100may comprise two or more sub-steps. For example, weaving step 120 may comprise sub-step 221_1 and sub-step 222_1, as shown in Fig. 2C.

[0069] Sub-step 221_1 may include warping to make warp sheet for loom. Sectional warping technique, or direct warping technique, or other suitable warping techniques may be used to perform warping.

[0070] Sub-step 222_1 may include sizing. Sizing may be applied to enhance the weavability properties including, but not limited to, strength, lubrication, and binding properties. In some embodiments, for terry cloth ground component, the size add-on ranges from 0% to 10% and for pile yarn 0% to 5%. For zero-twist yarn a low-temperature size was used.

[0071] In some embodiments, weaving may include making the fabric in air jet / rapier loom with two beam of warp sheet such as ground and pile. With GSM range from 350 to 900, in end-to-end construction on single side or both sides of the terry cloth made using dobby and jacquard design.

[0072] In some embodiments, the wet processing step 130 may comprise multiple sub-steps (e.g., sub-steps 331- 337 shown in Fig. 2D), as listed below: 1. Bio-polishing 2. De-sizing 3. Scouring / Bleaching 4. Dyeing 5. Printing 6. Air Beating 7. Stentering

[0073] Sub-step 331 may include bio-polishing to remove the protruding fiber from yarn by using cellulose enzyme to give lustre and improve piling. This process may be used in soft flow machine in exhaust process or pad - steam-wash or pad -batch-wash in continuous process.

[0074] Sub-step 332 may include de-sizing to remove size material. The de-sizing may be performed based on the size applied. For water-soluble low-temperature size material, a hot wash was performed, and for starch an oxidative / enzymatic de-sizing was performed. For zero-twist yarn, a temperature of 110°C was applied to dissolve PVA. This process may be used in soft flow machine in exhaust process or pad - steam-wash or pad - batch-wash in continuous process.

[0075] Sub-step 333 may include scouring or bleaching to remove natural impurities and natural colour by caustic (NaOH) and Hydrogen Peroxide (H 2 O 2 ). In some embodiments, caustic (NaOH) saponified natural wax and pectins and Hydrogen Peroxide may remove natural colour. This process may be used in soft flow machine in exhaust process or wash-pad - steam-wash i.e., continuous bleaching range in continuous process.

[0076] Sub-step 334 may include dyeing. In some embodiments, reactive dye may be used for dyeing the cellulosic part in soft flow machine in exhaust process and pad - steam-wash in continuous process. (e.g., Continuous Dyeing Range).

[0077] Sub-step 335 may include printing. In some embodiments, reactive / pigment printing may be made with Rotary Screen Printing / Digital Printing, as appropriate. In some embodiments, a chemical finish may be applied as well. A suitable chemical finish may be padded to add functional properties including, but not limited to, softener, antimicrobial, antistain, anti-odor, among other things, to the terry cloth.

[0078] Sub-step 336 may include air beating to make the pile open and provide a mechanical soft finish.

[0079] Sub-step 337 may include stentering to remove bow / skew effect from fabric, or to set width and shrinkage. In some embodiments, any additional chemical finish like antimicrobial / stain release may be applied as well, as appropriate, or as desired.

[0080] The process of manufacturing a terry cloth as disclosed herein may further include made-up step 140. In some embodiments, after the fabric is ready for made-up, the fabric may be ready for making towels, bathrobes, baby hoods, beach hoods etc., by using the formed terry cloth and trims. In some embodiments, embroidery may be performed on the formed terry cloth, as desired.

[0081] Normally three types of basic yarns as per TM are used in pile to make terry cloth, as listed below: a. Zero Twist, TM range from 1.0 to 2.4; b. Low Twist, TM range from 2.5 to 3.5; and c. High Twist, TM range from 3.5 and higher.

[0082] Zero twist yarn is made by using water soluble fibers like polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), wool, silk, or any other suitable fiber or reverse twist with soluble fiber filament like PVA, silk, or any other suitable fiber to make parallel orientation of fiber in yarn structure. Once the soluble part dissolves, resultant yarn range as zero twist with TM range from 1.0 to 2.4.

[0083] Low twist yarn: This yarn basically TM range from 2.5 to 3.5. The TM range of 2.5 to 2.9 is achieved by reverse twisting of fine filament yarn or finer count yarn on thick yarn. Yarn with TM range of 2.7 to 3.5 can be achieved by controlling the spinning parameters.

[0084] High Twist yarn: Yarn having TM range 3.5 and above.

[0085] In this disclosure, all the above three types of yarn (zero-twist, low-twist and high-twist yarn) are used in combination as Pile. Further, an end-to-end construction on single side or on both sides of the terry cloth is used to achieve the functional as well as aesthetic attributes in terry cloth. As used herein, end-to-end construction refers to using combination of different yarns (zero-twist, low-twist, and high-twist) in pile with different recurrence to achieve all the attributes. The zero-twist yarn in the pile provides the bulky look, absorbency and soft feel, and the high twist yarn provides the durability and reduces the lint generation. The low-twist yarn balance the attributes of zero-twist and high-twist yarn.

[0086] Terry cloth made with different weave structures of three pick, four pick, five pick, seven pick, eight pick and nine pick terry with dobby as well as jacquard loom are used to compare the lint generation, durability, absorbency, soft hand feel, and bulky look.TESTING PARAMETERS:

[0087] Lint Collection Test: Fabric wash at 45°C and tumble dry at low temperature. This process is repeated three times and each drying process the dry lint is collected from the filter of tumble dryer machine. It is measured and compared in percentage with the weight of terry cloth taken.

[0088] Bulkiness Test: Three or six terry cloths of similar size terry cloth taken and folded as per the standard fold and bulkiness is measured in inches. TM = TPI √ Ne where, TM = twist multiplier, TPI = twists per inch or turns per inch, and Ne = English Cotton Count. English Cotton Court = the number of hank of 840 − yard lengths per pound .

[0089] Absorbency Test: This test is done according to the AATCC 140-2010 Method. First, the sample is taken and clamped in the stand in such way that only the pile containing portion of a towel can absorb water. A basin is placed beneath the stand for collecting residual water after absorption. Second, 50 ml water is taken in a measuring cylinder. So, the 1 st< reading is 50 ml. Then, the water is given in to the test kit and the stand is kept for absorption for 33 seconds. After 33 seconds the towel is taken away with the clamp. Then the residual water, that has not been absorbed by the towel and has collected in the basin, is transferred to a measuring cylinder and the reading is taken. This is the 2 nd< reading.

[0090] Absorbency is calculated using the following formula: Absorbency % = 1 st Reading × 2 − 2 nd Reading × 2 2

[0091] Absorbency test is done after one wash.

[0092] It is observed that by combining three different types of yarn in pile and using end to end construction, there is up to 35% reduction in lint generation compared to terry cloth made with 100% zero-twist yarn in pile. Generally, 0.75% to 1.0% lint is generated of same weight of terry cloth made with 100% zero-twist yarn in pile.

[0093] It is further observed that there is up to 30% less lint generation compared to terry cloth made with 100% low-twist yarn. Generally, 0.5% to 0.75% lint is generated of same weight of terry cloth made with 100% low-twist yarn in pile.

[0094] Similar lint generation is observed for the terry cloth disclosed herein as compared to terry cloth made with 100% high-twist yarn. Generally, 0.3% to 0.7% lint is generated of weight of terry cloth made with 100% high twisted yarn in pile.

[0095] The durability of a terry cloth can be related with the tensile strength. It is observed that the tensile strength of terry cloth disclosed herein is similar to the tensile strength of terry cloth made with 100% high-twist yarn in pile.

[0096] It is further observed that the tensile strength of terry cloth disclosed herein is 5% or more higher compared to a similar construction terry cloth made with 100% low-twist yarn in pile.

[0097] It is further observed that the tensile strength of terry cloth disclosed herein is 10% or more higher compared to a similar construction terry cloth made with 100% zero-twist yarn in pile.

[0098] It is further observed that the terry cloth disclosed herein has a similar hand feel as compared to terry cloth made with similar construction and 100% zero-twist yarn in pile.

[0099] It is further observed that the terry cloth disclosed herein has a softer feel as compared to terry cloth made with similar construction and 100% low-twist yarn in pile or 100% high-twist yarn in pile.

[0100] It is further observed that the absorbency of the terry cloth disclosed herein is 50% - 70% for grams per square meter (GSM) range of 350 to 450 and 70%- 95% for GSM range from 451 to 900. Terry cloth made with 100% zero-twist yarn in pile have absorbency 50% - 70% for the GSM range from 350 to 450 and 70% - 95% for GSM range from 451 to 900. Terry cloth made with 100% low-twist yarn in pile have absorbency 40% - 60% for 350 to 450 GSM and 60% - 85% for GSM range from 451 to 900. Terry cloth made with 100% high-twist yarn in pile have absorbency 35% - 50% for the GSM range from 350 to 450 and 50% - 80% for the GSM range from 451 to 900.

[0101] It is further observed that the bulkiness of the terry cloth disclosed herein is similar to terry cloth made with 100% zero-twist yarn in pile. It is further observed that the terry cloth disclosed herein is 30% or more bulkier compared to terry cloth made with 100% low-twist yarn in pile and 60% or more bulkier compared to the terry cloth made with 100% high-twist yarn in pile.

[0102] The disclosed terry cloth formed by the proposed method herein may have the following attributes: 1. High absorbency 2. Soft hand feel 3. High bulk 4. Low lint generation 5. High durability

[0103] Figs. 3A-3E illustrate various cross sectional top view of terry cloth where arrangement of loops depicted in the present invention. It is pertaining to note that the present invention can be performed in other pattern also and disclosed figure does not render any limitation in terms of scope of the present invention.

[0104] The representations made in figs. 3A-E for the present invention is different preferred pick but the same can be adapted to other weaving tricks also.

[0105] As shown, the terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile comprises a warp yarn and a weft yarn. Said ground weft and warp as ground components are interlaced to define ground of said terry structure. Said ground having a top surface and a bottom surface, and a pile warp extending from said ground. Said pile warp comprising a plurality of sets of pile yarns with each set of pile yarns having a plurality of pile yarns, the improvement in which said pile yarns of each set extend in a plurality of adjacent loops above said top surface and then pass through said ground and extend in a plurality of adjacent loops beneath said bottom surface. Said pile yarns of each set again pass through said ground and repeat in adjacent loops above said top surface and beneath said bottom surface across a dimension of said terry structure (or product), and each immediately adjacent pair of sets of yarns is staggered so as to provide a pattern defined by sets of pile yarns and ground on each of said top and bottom surfaces. The pile warp yarn has a composite twist yarn having different type of twist in optimized manner to provide the terry structure (or product); end-to-end construction means to selectively use of different combination in twist yarns in pile with different recurrence to achieve requisite attributes of end user.

[0106] The Modification Example includes a pile forming part formed by three picks and a ground woven fabric part formed by one pick. The number of picks is 4. More specifically, one repeat is constituted of 4 picks and the one repeat is repeated. In the 4-pick structure, upper piles and lower piles stand up alternately and are replaced between the front surface and the back surface. Therefore, it is applicable for fabrics in which design is not the major importance, e.g., plain towel.WORKING EXAMPLE:

[0107] The composite twist used in pile structure provides unique combination of high, low and zero twist imparted with strategically selective nature to achieve the object.

[0108] The optimization of composite twist was described by using different type of twists (i.e. Zero, Low and High) on the pile in order to evaluate implication of various properties in the matter.

[0109] The said 4-pick sample tested for following parameters: Color fastness Absorbency Dimensional stability Lint collection

[0110] The abovementioned parameters were tested and provided with following tabular comparison for composite twist:- The present study discloses three type of composite twists in the study Zero Twist denoted as abbreviation "ZT" Low Twist denoted as abbreviation "LT" High Twist denoted as abbreviation "HT"

[0111] For the purpose of the study following composite twist has been used in the present study i.e. (i) 50% ZT + 50%HT yarn (ii) 50% ZT + 25% HT +25% LT yarn (iii) 100% HT yarn (iv) 100% ZT yarn WARP COUNT Ground - 2 / 20S Ne WEFT COUNT - 12s Ne Pile ration - 6.3 Ends per inch (EPI) X picks per inch (PPI) - 70 X 53 WARP COUNT- Pile 9s Ne Abovementioned yarn combination was tested for following ASTM standards in following parameters: (i) Color fastness: -

[0112] SR NO Test Property Test Method Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 50%HT yarn Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 25% HT, 25% LT varn Pile warp sheet with 100% HT yarn Pile warp sheet with 100% ZT yarn I COLOURFASTNESS: - AFastness to washingaShade changeAATCC-61-2A4444bStainingAATCC-61-2A4.54.54.54.5cSelf stainingAATCC-61-2A4.54.54.54 (ii) Colorfastness to crocking and water:

[0113] SR No. Test Property Test Method Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 50%HT yarn Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 25% HT, 25% LT yarn Pile warp sheet with 100% HT yarn Pile warp sheet with 100% ZT yarn B FASTNESS TO CROCKING ADryAATCC-84.54.54.54.5BWetAATCC-84.54.54.54.5CFastness to Light (20 Hrs.)AATCC-16EDFastness to Water ChangeAATCC-1074.54.54.54.5DFastness to Water StainingAATCC-1074.54.54.54.5 (iii) Dimensional stability:

[0114] SR No. Test Property Test Method Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 50%HT yarn Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 25% HT, 25% LT yarn Pile warp sheet with 100% HT yarn Pile warp sheet with 100% ZT yarn II DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC-150AWarp2.77%2.67%2.77%3.00%BWeft0.64%0.66%0.64%0.80%CBORDER2.63%2.63%2.63%2.63%DDIFFERENTIAL SHRINKAGE1.99%2.00%1.99%2.30% (iv) Lint Collection:

[0115] SR No. Test Property Test Method Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 50%HT yarn Pile warp sheet 50% ZT, 25% HT, 25% LT varn Pile warp sheet with 100% HT yarn Pile warp sheet with 100% ZT yarn III SURFACE WATER ABSORBENCY BEFORE WASH ASTM D4772AFTER 3 WASH 82%81%60%83%IV dGeneral Appearance (3HL)AATCC-143V BULKINESS TEST (AFTER 3 WASH) Before Wash -83 mmBefore Wash -83 mmBefore Wash - 79 mmBefore Wash - 83 mmAfter wash -96 mmAfter wash -94 mmAfter wash - 85mmAfter wash - 98mmVI LINT COLLECTION 0.160% 0.142% 0.140% 0.980% Conclusion:

[0116] It apparent from the abovementioned study that optimization of the twist in the pile provides good results for lint collection and absorbency. The color fastness and stability in dimension provides identical result for different composite twists including (Low, Zero and High Twist). It is observed that by using composite yarn in pile section with specific combination of High Twist (HT) and Zero Twist (ZT), resultant terry fabric provides low lint collection along with dimensional stability and absorbency. The present study discloses four types of composite twists in the study i.e. (i) 50% + 50%HT yarn (ii) 50% ZT, 25% HT, 25% LT yarn (iii) 100% HT yarn (iv) 100% ZT yarn

[0117] From abovementioned experiment the researchers have identified the optimized feature as following ranges for composite twists as pile warp sheet having: at least 50% by number of Zero twist yarn at least within the range of 25% to 50% by number of High twist yarn at least within the range of 0 to 33% by number of Low twist yarn

[0118] In another embodiment, the said terry cloth can be prepared by following particulars: Pile warp sheet having up to 50% by number of Low twist and / or up to 50% by number of Zero twist and / or up to 50% by number of High twist

[0119] While various embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, it is apparent that modification and adaptation of those embodiments will occur to those skilled in the art. It is expressly understood, however, that such modifications and adaptations are within the spirit and scope of the present invention as set forth in the following claims.

Claims

1. An improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile comprising, a warp yarn and a weft yarn; said ground weft and warp as ground components interlaced to define ground of said terry structure, said ground having a top surface and a bottom surface, and a pile warp extending from said ground, said pile warp comprising a plurality of sets of pile yarns with each set of pile yarns having a plurality of pile yarns, wherein said pile yarns of each set extend in a plurality of adjacent loops above said top surface and then pass through said ground and extend in a plurality of adjacent loops beneath said bottom surface, said pile yarns of each set again pass through said ground and repeat in adjacent loops above said top surface and beneath said bottom surface across a dimension of said terry structure, and each immediately adjacent pair of sets of yarns is staggered so as to provide a pattern defined by sets of pile yarns and ground on each of said top and bottom surfaces wherein, the pile warp yarn having a composite twist yarn having different type of twist in optimized manner to provide the terry structure; end-to-end construction means to selectively use different combination in twist yarns in pile with different recurrence to achieve requisite attributes of end user.

2. The improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claim 1, wherein said terry fabric contains range of yarn count 6s Ne to 60s Ne to make terry cloth of GSM range from 350 to 900.

3. The improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the said terry cloth made with different weave structures of three pick, four pick, five pick, seven pick, eight pick and nine pick terry with dobby or jacquard loom.

4. The improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claims 1-3, wherein the said pile yarn contains composite twist as pile warp sheet having, at least 50% by number of Zero twist yarn having Twist multiplier in the range of 1.0 to 2.4, at least within the range of25% to 50% by number of High twist yarn having Twist multiplier more then 3.5, at least within the range of 0 to 33% by number of Low twist yarn having Twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to 3.5.

5. The improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claims 1-3, wherein the said pile yarn contains composite twist as pile warp sheet having up to 50% of any yarn twist including Zero Twist having Twist multiplier in the range of 1.0 to 2.4 and / or High twist yarn having Twist multiplier more than 3.5 and / or Low twist yarn having twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to 3.5.

6. The improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claims 1-5, wherein, the terry cloth made up from the said terry structure provides optimized balance between composite yarns to provides attributes having, bulky look, absorbency and soft feel through zero twist yarn, durability and low lint generation through the high twist yarn, and balancing the both attributes through low twist yarn.

7. The process of manufacturing an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile as claimed in preceding claims, comprises following steps: (i) spinning, (ii) weaving; and (iii) wet processing wherein, I. Spinning further includes following sub-steps: [i] opening and blending of the different fibers in specific proportion send to next machine by chute feed system; [ii] carding to cleaning all the impurities, neps and output is sliver; [iii] draw frame to do drafting and making fiber more parallel and remove thick-thin places and hooks; [iv] combing to remove short fiber; [v] finisher drawing frame to do final drafting and making fiber more parallel and remove thick-thin places and hooks, [vi] speed framing to make roving which is the input material of ring frame, [vii] ring framing to make yarn through twisting by giving draft to the in-feed roving, [viii] winding too make bigger package, [ix] steaming to remove the snarling and making the yarn relax and stable, a steam treatment imparted to yarn, [x] parallel winding to wind two yarns required for double yarn, [xi] twisting to give required selective twist in the yarn; II. weaving step includes following sub-steps: [i] warping to make warp sheet for loom, [ii] sizing to enhance the weave ability properties; III. wet processing step includes following sub-steps: [i] bio-polishing to remove the protruding fiber from yarn by using cellulose enzyme to give luster and improve piling, [ii] de-sizing to remove size material, [iii] scouring or bleaching to remove natural impurities and natural colour [iv] dying to color the fabric, [v] printing, [vii] air beating to make the pile open and provide a mechanical soft finish, [vi] stentering to remove bow / skew effect from fabric, or to set width and shrinkage; wherein, the pile warp yarn having a composite twist yarn having different type of twist in optimized manner to provide said terry structure; end-to-end construction denotes to selective use of different combination in twist yarns in pile with different recurrence to achieve requisite attributes of end user.

8. The process of manufacturing an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claim 7, wherein the said pile yarn preferably contains composite twist as pile warp sheet having, at least 50% by number of zero twist yarn having Twist multiplier in the range of 1.0 to 2.4, at least within the range of 25% to 50% by number of High twist yarn having Twist multiplier more then 3.5, at least within the range of 0 to 33% by number of Low twist yarn having twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to 3.5.

9. The process of manufacturing an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claim 7, wherein the said pile yarn preferably contains composite twist as pile warp sheet having up to 50% of any yarn twist including Zero Twist having Twist multiplier in the range of 1.0 to 2.4 and / or High twist yarn having Twist multiplier more than 3.5 and / or Low twist yarn having twist multiplier in the range of 2.5 to 3.5.

10. The process of manufacturing an improved terry structure with selectively composite twist in pile according to claims 7-9, wherein, wet processing step, optionally, involves the dissolution of the soluble fiber or soluble yarn in the terry structure.

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