Method for forming a dispersion comprising drops and associated device

EP4587172A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-07-23CAPSUM
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Patent Information

Application Number
EP2023769201
Authority / Receiving Office
EP · EP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-09-13
Filing Date
2023-09-13
Publication Date
2025-07-23

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Current microfluidic processes for forming stable oil-in-water dispersions rely on carbomers, which are controversial due to petrochemical origin and potential microplastic concerns, and lack effective natural hydrophilic gelling agents that provide similar performance in terms of transparency, texture, and viscosity modulation.

Method used

A microfluidic process using a hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of a salt, without carbomers, to create a stable dispersion with adjustable viscosity, ensuring kinetic stability and sensoriality, and avoiding the use of amodimethicone, utilizing a salt solution to activate the gelling agent and enhance suspension properties.

Benefits of technology

The process achieves stable, macroscopic dispersions with satisfactory optical properties and skin comfort, maintaining fluidity and flexibility, even at high viscosity, without the use of carbomers or surfactants, and is compatible with temperatures up to 50°C, offering a non-petrochemical and non-microplastic alternative.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for forming a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) having a fatty phase (14), which drops are dispersed in a gelled continuous aqueous phase (22), the method comprising the steps of: (i) providing a fatty phase (14) comprising at least one oil and, optionally, at least one lipophilic gelling agent that is preferably heat-sensitive; (ii) providing an aqueous phase (16) that is substantially immiscible with the fatty phase (14), comprising at least water and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt; (iii) forming fatty phase drops (14) in the aqueous phase (16) or in the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22); (iv) conveying the drops (12) in a circulation duct (38); (v) recovering a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) and the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) in a container (33); characterised in that the method comprises at least one of the steps (vi) of: (vi1) before step (iii), adding, to the aqueous phase (16), at least one portion of an aqueous solution (62); and / or (vi2) injecting at least one portion of the aqueous solution (62) into the circulation duct (38) or at the outlet of the circulation conduit (38) upstream of the container (33), the aqueous solution (62) comprising at least one salt capable of reacting with the hydrophilic gelling agent, the dispersion being free of carbomer and, optionally, of amodimethicone.
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Description

[0001] Method of forming a dispersion comprising drops, and associated apparatus

[0002] The present invention relates to a method for forming a stable oil-in-water dispersion comprising a gelled continuous aqueous phase comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt and drops, in particular macroscopic drops, of a dispersed fatty phase.

[0003] To date, there are stable dispersions of drops, in particular macroscopic ones, of a fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, obtained using a microfluidic process, in particular described in WO2017046305.

[0004] Such microfluidic processes are particularly effective in forming stable dispersions comprising drops of perfectly controlled size and exhibiting satisfactory properties in terms of transparency, texture, viscosity and suspensivity of the drops of fatty phase dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0005] Such microfluidic processes are particularly sensitive and many parameters are likely to alter their robustness and / or the kinetic stability of the dispersions obtained. In particular, the aqueous phase must be sufficiently fluid and homogeneous during the emulsification step and sufficiently viscous once the dispersion is formed to ensure the suspension of the drops in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0006] The implementation and robustness of these microfluidic processes, as well as the aforementioned satisfactory properties, depend in particular on the presence in the continuous aqueous phase of a pH-dependent gelling agent, generally of the carbomer (or acrylic polymer) type, for example those marketed by Lubrizol under the name Carbopol. The gelling / suspension effect of the carbomers is activated after formation of the dispersion, by the “neutralization” of the aqueous phase by adding a sodium hydroxide solution. Thus, before formation of the dispersion, the aqueous phase is provided with an acidic pH, namely between 3.5 and 5.5, preferably between 4 and 5, to guarantee a fluidity compatible with the microfluidic process. After formation of the dispersion, the gelling of the aqueous phase is carried out thanks to a step of injection of the sodium hydroxide solution. Such a method is described in application WO2015055748.

[0007] However, carbomers are hydrophilic synthetic polymers of acrylic acid, and therefore of petrochemical origin. Their use in cosmetics is increasingly controversial. Moreover, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is studying, in consultation with the REACH committee, a ban on microplastics in cosmetics, which include carbomers.

[0008] In view of the above, the presence of carbomers is now imperative to guarantee the microfluidic manufacture of stable dispersions, particularly macroscopic ones. The replacement of carbomers therefore becomes an important and critical problem, particularly in the case of a sudden change in consumers' perception of carbomers, the inclusion of these raw materials by customers in their "blacklist", or even the prohibition of their use in cosmetics by applicable regulations.

[0009] In addition, carbomers, through a complex interfacial coacervation reaction with a lipophilic cationic polymer present in the fatty phase, in particular amodimethicone, can also be involved in the formation of a bark. This thin, non-residual bark upon application makes it possible to give macroscopic dispersions obtained by microfluidic processes better mechanical resistance.

[0010] Many attempts to substitute carbomers with natural hydrophilic gelling agents have been considered. However, this substitution is difficult due to the lower performance of these natural hydrophilic gelling agents in terms of, in particular, transparency and non-stickiness.

[0011] While many natural hydrophilic gelling agents are temperature sensitive, few of them have the property of modulating their viscosity upwards depending on a physicochemical parameter at room temperature, like carbomers.

[0012] Furthermore, as soon as one seeks to obtain a gelled aqueous phase with a certain viscosity, gels based on natural hydrophilic gelling agent(s), in particular capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt, are very often firm and brittle, whereas gels based on carbomer(s) are flexible, fluid and slightly cohesive. By "slightly cohesive", we mean a gel having a finely tuned compromise between the ability to stick to itself, unlike a brittle gel, without this property being too exacerbated, under penalty of being faced with a gel having an "egg white" type texture / behavior, which is not desirable.

[0013] There is therefore a need for new dispersions comprising drops, in particular of macroscopic size, of a fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase and which remain satisfactory in terms of kinetic stability, transparency, texture, sensoriality and comfort on application, despite the absence of carbomer, or even of a bark. There is also a need for new formulations of gelled aqueous phase with a modulable viscosity, free of carbomer, and which, after activation, remain flexible, fluid and slightly cohesive, even at high viscosity.

[0014] An aim of the invention is therefore to provide a simple method for the microfluidic manufacture of a dispersion containing drops, in particular macroscopic drops, of fatty phase in stable suspension in a continuous aqueous phase offering a non-petrochemical and non-microplastic alternative to carbomers.

[0015] Thus, the subject of the present invention is a method for forming (or manufacturing) a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) of fatty phase (14) dispersed in a gelled continuous aqueous phase (22), the method comprising the following steps:

[0016] (i) having a fatty phase (14) comprising at least one oil and optionally, at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive;

[0017] (ii) having an aqueous phase (16), substantially immiscible with the fatty phase (14), comprising at least water and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt;

[0018] (iii) forming drops of fatty phase (14) in the aqueous phase (16) or the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22);

[0019] (iv) flow, in a circulation conduit (38), of the drops (12);

[0020] (v) recovery of a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) and gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) in a container (33); characterized in that the method comprises at least one following step (vi):

[0021] (vil) before step (iii), adding to the aqueous phase (16) at least a portion of an aqueous solution (62); and / or

[0022] (vi2) injecting at least a portion of the aqueous solution (62) into the circulation conduit (38) or at the outlet of the circulation conduit (38), upstream of the container (33), said aqueous solution (62) comprising at least one salt capable of reacting with the hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0023] In view of the above, the aqueous phase (16) is advantageously free of carbomer.

[0024] There is also an increasing demand from consumers for cosmetic compositions free of silicone compounds due to their environmental impact, as they are non-biodegradable, and / or their suspected danger to health. Thus, a dispersion according to the invention, and in particular the fatty phase (14), is therefore advantageously free of amodimethicone.

[0025] A method according to the invention, when step (vi) is represented in whole or in part by step (vil), may be referred to indifferently in the remainder of the description as “first method”.

[0026] A method according to the invention, when step (vi) is represented in whole or in part by step (vi2), may be referred to indifferently in the remainder of the description as “second method”.

[0027] In the remainder of the description, the solution comprising at least one salt may be designated indifferently by the expression “solution (62)”, “aqueous solution (62)”, “additional solution” or “BF”.

[0028] As illustrated by the examples, a microfluidic method according to the invention is advantageous in that it makes it possible to manufacture stable dispersions, single or multiple, comprising drops of fatty phase, of controlled, even macroscopic, size, and having satisfactory optical properties without resorting to the use of carbomer, and this, in a continuous, simple and robust manner.

[0029] A method according to the invention is also advantageous in that it is based on a microfluidic alternative:

[0030] - non-microplastic;

[0031] - using a modular or “evolving” viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase via a pair of raw materials of natural origin;

[0032] - compatible with temperatures up to 50°C; and

[0033] - capable of giving the continuous phase satisfactory properties in terms of transparency, texture and sensoriality.

[0034] By modulatable or “evolving” viscosity is meant a viscosity compatible with the constraints of a microfluidic process until the dispersion is formed under normal conditions, said viscosity then being able to be increased so as to ensure satisfactory suspension of the drops of fatty phase in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0035] Also, this alternative is advantageous in that it allows access to dispersions comprising a continuous aqueous phase with particularly satisfactory properties in terms of kinetic stability, in particular suspension of drops, stickiness, and comfort on application (in particular play-time). However, this combination of criteria constitutes a non-obvious compromise, in particular given the absence of carbomer, or even of bark. In addition, the present invention allows access to a dispersion, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one fluid gelled aqueous phase (22) comprising at least one salt and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of the salt(s), the dispersion being free of carbomer and optionally of amodimethicone.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fluid" is intended to denote a gelled aqueous phase which, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, retains the ability to flow under its own weight. In particular, a gelled aqueous phase according to the invention retains the ability to conform to the shape of its container. In other words, a gelled aqueous phase according to the invention is not in the form of a solid block, and in particular is not in the form of a firm and brittle solid gel.

[0037] Against all expectations, the inventors observed that the invention makes it possible to access fluid (or liquid) gels with properties similar to those observed with carbomer gels, particularly in terms of transparency and non-stickiness.

[0038] Furthermore, the invention provides access to suspending liquid gels, which allows the manufacture of dispersions. As such, and unexpectedly, a gelled aqueous phase (22) according to the invention remains compatible with a microfluidic process at room temperature, without prejudice to the aforementioned advantages in terms of transparency and non-stickiness.

[0039] The method according to the invention may comprise one or more of the following characteristics, taken in isolation or in any technically possible combination:

[0040] - the drops of fatty phase and the aqueous phase flow along a local axis in the circulation conduit, the injection of the additional aqueous solution (62) taking place substantially parallel, or even coaxially, with the local axis;

[0041] - the injection of the additional aqueous solution (62) comprises bringing at least a portion of this solution to the center of the flow of drops and of the aqueous phase;

[0042] - the injection of the additional aqueous solution (62) comprises bringing at least a portion of this solution to the periphery of the flow of drops and of the aqueous phase;

[0043] - it involves a reduction in the cross-section of the flow of drops and of the aqueous phase, downstream of the injection of the aqueous solution (62);

[0044] - the injection of the aqueous solution (62) is carried out at the outlet of the circulation conduit (38); - it comprises, upstream of the flow (or circulation) step (iv), a step of forming the drops (12) in the circulation conduit (38);

[0045] - the injection of the aqueous solution (62) comprises the supply of at least a portion of the solution (62) into a crown (210) for distributing the solution located in the center of the circulation conduit (38), the drops (12) flowing in a central passage (212) delimited by the crown (210) and in a peripheral passage (214) delimited between the crown and the circulation conduit (38).

[0046] - according to step (vi2), a first sub-step 100 of injecting a first aqueous solution (62), adapted to increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase (16), whereby an intermediate dispersion 102 is obtained comprising a continuous aqueous phase 22 of partially increased viscosity, the method further comprising, after the recovery step (v), at least a second sub-step 104 comprising:

[0047] ■ the recirculation of intermediate dispersion 102; and

[0048] ■ the injection of a second aqueous solution (62) into the intermediate dispersion 102.

[0049] - the recirculation step comprises the circulation of the intermediate dispersion 102 in an additional conduit 106, then the recovery of the final dispersion 10 according to the invention in a container at the outlet of the additional conduit 106, the injection of the second aqueous solution (62) being carried out in the additional conduit 106, or at the outlet of the additional conduit 106, upstream of the container 33. This embodiment is notably illustrated in figure 8.

[0050] The invention also relates to an apparatus for forming a dispersion 10 comprising drops 12, comprising:

[0051] - a circulation conduit (38) containing drops (12) of fatty phase (14) in an aqueous phase (16) substantially immiscible with the fatty phase (14);

[0052] - a container (33) for recovering a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) and the aqueous phase (16); characterized in that the apparatus (30) comprises:

[0053] - a reservoir (68) containing an aqueous solution (62) comprising at least one salt;

[0054] - at least one conduit (60) for injecting the aqueous solution (62), connected to the reservoir (68), and opening into the circulation conduit (38) or at the outlet of the circulation conduit (38), upstream of the container (33), the fatty phase (14) comprising at least one oil and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive; and the aqueous phase (16), substantially immiscible with the fatty phase (14), comprising at least water and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt.

[0055] In view of the above, the aqueous phase (16) is advantageously free of carbomer and, optionally, the fatty phase (14) is advantageously free of amodimethicone.

[0056] The apparatus according to the invention may comprise one or more of the following characteristics, taken in isolation or in any technically possible combination:

[0057] - the circulation duct extends along a local axis of circulation of the drops and of the second phase, the injection duct opening coaxially with the local axis;

[0058] - it comprises a peripheral conduit for injecting at least part of the additional solution, opening at the periphery of the circulation conduit and / or a central conduit for injecting at least part of the additional solution, opening at the center of the circulation conduit;

[0059] - it comprises a drop formation assembly in the circulation conduit, the drop formation assembly advantageously comprising:

[0060] ■ a conduit for supplying a first fluid (36) comprising the fatty phase (14) and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive, contained in the fatty phase (14);

[0061] ■ a conduit for forming drops of first fluid (36) in a second fluid (40) intended to form the aqueous phase (16), the second fluid (40) comprising at least water and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt.

[0062] The invention also relates to a dispersion comprising drops (12) of fatty phase (14) dispersed in a gelled continuous aqueous phase (22), in which:

[0063] - the drops (12) having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed fatty phase and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm;

[0064] - the fatty phase comprises at least one oil and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive; and - the gelled continuous aqueous phase comprises at least water, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent gelled with at least one salt, said dispersion being free of carbomer and optionally of amodimethicone.

[0065] A dispersion according to the invention has the advantage of being stable (or "kinetically stable"), in particular over time and during transport. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" is understood to mean, in particular, the absence of creaming or sedimentation of the drops of dispersed phase in the continuous phase, the absence of opacification of the continuous phase, the absence of aggregation of the drops with each other, and in particular the absence of coalescence or Oswald ripening of the drops with each other, and the absence of leakage of materials from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa.

[0066] In the context of the present invention, the above-mentioned dispersions may be referred to interchangeably by the term "emulsions".

[0067] According to one embodiment, the dispersions according to the invention do not comprise a surfactant.

[0068] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention has a pH of between 3.0 and 6.5, preferably between 4.0 and 6.0 and better still between 5.0 and 6.0.

[0069] Unless otherwise stated, in all that follows, we consider that we are at room temperature (for example T=25°C ± 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1,013.10 5 Pa or 10 13 mbar).

[0070] The invention will be better understood by reading the following description, given solely by way of example, and made with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

[0071] - figure 1 is a side view of a container containing a simple dispersion obtained by a second method according to the invention;

[0072] - figure 2 is a sectional view of a drop of a simple dispersion according to the invention;

[0073] - figure 3 is a schematic view in partial section of a first apparatus for manufacturing a simple dispersion, for implementing the second method;

[0074] - figure 4 is a sectional view of a drop of a multiple dispersion according to the invention;

[0075] - Figure 5 is a schematic view in partial section of a first apparatus for manufacturing a multiple dispersion, for implementing the second method; - Figure 6 is a view of a detail of the end of a circulation conduit of a variant of apparatus according to the invention, where the injection of an additional solution (62) is carried out at the end of the circulation conduit;

[0076] - Figure 7 is a bottom view of the end shown in Figure 6; and

[0077] - figure 8 is a view similar to figure 5 of a variant of apparatus for manufacturing a multiple dispersion, for implementing a second method according to the invention.

[0078] Figures 1 to 3 illustrate the implementation of a second method for forming simple dispersions according to the invention.

[0079] Figures 4 and 5 illustrate the implementation of a second method of forming multiple dispersions according to the invention.

[0080] Immiscibility

[0081] The fatty phase 14 (or dispersed phase) and the aqueous phase 16 (or continuous phase) are substantially immiscible.

[0082] By "substantially immiscible" for the purposes of the present invention, it is meant that the solubility of a first phase in a second phase is advantageously less than 5% by mass.

[0083] According to a first variant embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention may be a simple emulsion, and in particular a direct emulsion of the oil-in-water type.

[0084] According to a second embodiment variant, a dispersion according to the invention may be a multiple emulsion and therefore resort to the implementation of a third phase 19 (or internal dispersed phase), in which case the fatty phase 14 (or intermediate dispersed phase) is located between the third phase 19 and the aqueous phase 16 (or continuous phase), as illustrated in Figure 4. Thus, the fatty phase 14 and the third phase 19 are substantially immiscible and the fatty phase 14 and the aqueous phase 16 are substantially immiscible. In particular, a multiple dispersion according to the invention is of the type:

[0085] - water-in-oil-in-water, or

[0086] - oil-in-oil-in-water, in which case the third oily phase 19 and the oily fatty phase 14 comprise substantially immiscible oils.

[0087] By "substantially immiscible oils" or "non-miscible oils" within the meaning of the present invention, it is meant that the mixture of these two oils does not result in a homogeneous single-phase solution. Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the choice of oils to satisfy the aforementioned "non-miscible" criterion. Oils which are non-miscible with each other are described in particular in FR1752204.

[0088] According to a variant, a method according to the invention is intended to form a simple final dispersion based on a transient step of forming a multiple dispersion. Thus, in a transient multiple emulsion, the third phase 19 is oily and is miscible with the fatty phase 14.

[0089] Continuous aqueous phase

[0090] A dispersion according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0091] An aqueous phase according to the invention comprises water. In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.

[0092] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the aqueous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better still at least 60%, in particular between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said continuous aqueous phase.

[0093] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase of the dispersion according to the invention does not comprise a base, in particular NaOH.

[0094] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase of the dispersion according to the invention does not comprise carbomer (or acrylic polymer).

[0095] Hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt

[0096] By "hydrophilic" is meant a gelling agent that is soluble or dispersible in water.

[0097] A hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt, also indifferently referred to as an “ionosensitive hydrophilic gelling agent”, is an agent which makes it possible in particular to modulate the fluidity of the aqueous phase comprising it in the presence of at least one salt, and therefore the texture and / or the sensoriality of the dispersion. When the composition further comprises a dispersed fatty phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt is an agent which also makes it possible to suspend said drops in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0098] A hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt also makes it possible to ensure, in whole or in part, the suspensive nature of the continuous aqueous phase with respect to the drops of fatty phase, and therefore to ensure, in whole or in part, the kinetic stability of the dispersion, in particular by preventing / limiting in whole or in part the phenomena of coalescence of the drops with each other and / or creaming and / or sedimentation of the drops in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0099] For obvious reasons, it is appropriate to adapt the choice of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt with regard to the composition of the additional solution comprising at least one salt.

[0100] This adaptation falls within the general skills of the person skilled in the art.

[0101] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt is a polyelectrolyte reactive to at least one salt, in particular in the presence of at least one monovalent or divalent ion such as, for example, K + , N / A + , That ++ or Mg ++ .

[0102] A hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt may be chosen from natural polymers, biosynthetic polymers, modified polymers, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from natural polymers.

[0103] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt is chosen from a polysaccharide based on algins, alginates, pectins, carrageenans, gellan gum, diutan gum, furcellaran, or one of their derivatives, and their mixtures, in particular from gellan gum and / or carrageenans, and very particularly from gellan gum and / or iota-carrageenans.

[0104] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt may be chosen from carrageenan, in particular kappa and iota-carrageenan; gellan gum, in particular Low Acyl gellan; alginate; pectin, in particular Low Methoxyl pectin; diutan gum; furcellaran; or one of their derivatives; and their mixtures.

[0105] As carrageenan, we can cite the reference marketed by Cargill Beauty under the name Satiagel VPC 508 P (INCI: lota-Carrageenan (and) Chondrus Crispus Extract).

[0106] As gellan gum, we can cite the reference marketed by CP Kelco under the name Kelcogel CG LA or Kelcogel CG LA [E] (INCI: Gellan gum).

[0107] As alginate, we can cite the reference marketed by Algaia under the name Algogel VCG 1561 or by Alchemy Ingredients under the name Sclerothix (INCI: Xanthan Gum (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Algin).

[0108] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt is not chosen from algin or alginate.

[0109] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt is not a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent. The term "heat-sensitive gelling agent" is intended to denote a gelling agent which reacts to heat, and in particular is a gelling agent which is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature above 40°C, preferably above 50°C.

[0110] A dispersion according to the invention may comprise between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 2.5%, better still between 0.05% and 1%, and very particularly between 0.08% and 0.5%, by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (16).

[0111] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agents present in a gelled aqueous phase according to the invention are of natural origin and preferably biodegradable.

[0112] Preferably, the gelled aqueous phase (22) of a dispersion, or even the dispersion, according to the invention is natural, and preferably biodegradable.

[0113] By "natural", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant a composition comprising a percentage of ingredients of natural origin greater than or equal to 95%, preferably greater than or equal to 96%, in particular greater than or equal to 97%, and better still greater than or equal to 98% according to standard ISO 16 128. A percentage calculation method is described in FR31 19317.

[0114] In view of the manufacturing process according to the invention:

[0115] - the continuous aqueous phase (16) is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. In other words, the continuous phase (16) is not solid at room temperature and ambient pressure;

[0116] - the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) of the dispersion obtained after mixing between the continuous aqueous phase (16) and the aqueous solution (62) has a viscosity necessarily greater than the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase (16) and preferably is in the form of a gel.

[0117] Advantageously, the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) of the dispersion is provided with a flow threshold value adapted to ensure the suspension (or suspensivity) of the drops over a period of time greater than or equal to 1 month, preferably greater than or equal to 3 months, better still greater than or equal to 6 months, and most particularly greater than or equal to 12 months. In addition to the associated visual effect, this suspensive character makes it possible to improve the kinetic stability of the dispersion, in particular to prevent / limit the phenomena of coalescence of the drops with each other and / or creaming and / or sedimentation of the drops in the continuous phase, and therefore to further prevent any alterations to the visual rendering of a dispersion according to the invention.

[0118] In particular, the aqueous phase (16), and therefore before mixing with the solution (62), has a viscosity, as measured at 25°C, of ​​from 1 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 8,000 mPa.s, in particular from 100 mPa.s to 5,000 mPa.s, and in particular from 200 mPa.s to 2,500 mPa.s.

[0119] In particular, the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) of a dispersion according to the invention, and therefore after mixing the aqueous phase (16) with the aqueous solution (62), has a viscosity, as measured at 25°C, of ​​from 1,000 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, preferably of from 2,000 mPa.s to 40,000 mPa.s, in particular of from 3,000 mPa.s to 30,000 mPa.s, in particular of from 3,500 mPa.s to 20,000 mPa.s, and very particularly of from 4,000 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s.

[0120] Viscosity is measured at room temperature and ambient pressure, by the method described in WO2017046305.

[0121] The aqueous phase (22) is a non-Newtonian fluid. It is a shear-thinning fluid.

[0122] Preferably, the gelled aqueous phase (22) of a dispersion according to the invention is transparent or at least translucent. The property of transparency or translucency is determined according to the protocol described in the examples below.

[0123] The gelled aqueous phase (22) of a dispersion according to the invention is furthermore advantageous in that it has unexpected properties in terms of shear resilience, also referred to as “viscosity regeneration time” or “reconstruction time”, i.e. the time necessary for the sample to regain a viscosity at least equal to 75% of the original viscosity.

[0124] Method of measuring the percentage of regeneration:

[0125] All measurements are carried out with a Ta instrument DHR10 rheometer equipped with a 40mm diameter mobile forming a 1° cone - the measuring gap being 29pm. The measurements are carried out at 18°C, the temperature being controlled by a Peltier device.

[0126] Thixotropic behavior is measured using a 3ITT (3-interval-thixotropy-test) test protocol. This protocol consists of successively subjecting the sample to 3 different shear stages, namely:

[0127] • First step (= Reference interval): the sample is subjected to a low shear of 0.1 s -1 for 30 seconds with a measurement of one second per point, by which its viscosity at rest is evaluated; this measurement will serve as a reference for the test. • Second stage (= high shear interval): the sample is subjected to a high shear of 300 s -1for 30 seconds, which will deconstruct the sample, with a measurement of one second per point.

[0128] • Third step (= regeneration interval): the sample is subjected to the original shear, i.e. 0.1 s -1 for 300 seconds with a measurement of one second per point.

[0129] The time required for the sample to return to a viscosity at least equal to 75% of the original viscosity is called the "reconstruction time".

[0130] Thus, an aqueous phase (22) according to the invention advantageously has a percentage of regeneration of its viscosity of at least 75%, preferably at least 80%, in particular at least 85%, or even at least 90%, after 30 seconds in the third regeneration interval according to the method described above.

[0131] An aqueous phase (22) according to the invention can therefore be described as shear-resistant.

[0132] In particular, the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) of a dispersion according to the invention has a flow threshold greater than 0.1 Pa, in particular greater than 1 Pa, and preferably between 0.5 Pa and 100 Pa, in particular between 1 Pa and 75 Pa, very particularly between 2 Pa and 50 Pa, or even between 5 Pa and 25 Pa, and better still between 10 Pa and 20 Pa.

[0133] The yield stress is measured at room temperature and ambient pressure by the flow shear rate sweep method described in H.A. Barnes, A Handbook of Elementary Rheology; Institute of Non-Newtonian Fluid Mechanics. University of Wales, 2000 or http: / / www.tainstruments.com / pdf / literature / RH025.pdf.

[0134] Furthermore, the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) of a dispersion according to the invention has a satisfactory sensoriality, in particular of the “water-breaking” type, that is to say the sensation felt when an aqueous gel breaks under the applied pressure and releases the water it contains and gives a sensation of freshness and hydration.

[0135] This sensoriality is unexpected because it is generally not or hardly achievable with hydrophilic gelling agents capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt according to the invention.

[0136] This sensoriality is all the more unexpected as it is accompanied by satisfactory properties in terms of play-time and non-stickiness. Thus, a method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain dispersions with an average play-time of less than 3 minutes, preferably less than 2 minutes and more preferably less than 1 minute, when applied to a keratin material.

[0137] Dispersed fatty phase

[0138] A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 60%, in particular from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 40%, and better still from 15% to 30%, by weight of fatty phase (14) relative to the total weight of the dispersion (10).

[0139] Preferably, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention does not comprise a lipophilic cationic polymer, in particular amodimethicone (or amino-silicone).

[0140] A fatty phase (or oily phase) according to the invention comprises at least one oil, and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0141] Oils

[0142] The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature.

[0143] Examples of oils that can be used in a dispersion of the invention include:

[0144] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0145] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

[0146] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a C8 to C29 fatty acid, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, in C3 to C30, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

[0147] - silicone oils, such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0148] - fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;

[0149] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0150] - and their mixtures.

[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, isohexadecane, polydimethylsiloxane, octyldodecanol, isodecyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0152] According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty phase does not comprise silicone oil, and preferably does not comprise polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS).

[0153] Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the nature and / or the content of oil(s), in particular to ensure satisfactory kinetic stability of the dispersion according to the invention and to retain the aforementioned advantageous technical effects.

[0154] According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 30% and 100%, in particular between 40% and 90%, preferably between 50% and 80%, and in particular between 60% and 70%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0155] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0156] A lipophilic gelling agent, i.e. soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase, may be chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; fatty substances which are solid at ambient temperature and pressure, in particular chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters; and mixtures thereof, and preferably from polymeric gelling agents.

[0157] Such lipophilic gelling agents are notably described in WO2019002308.

[0158] Among the lipophilic gelling agents that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates. Among the dextrin and fatty acid esters, mention may be made, for example, of dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates / ethylhexanoates and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of the dextrin and fatty acid esters marketed under the names Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate), and Rheopearl® MKL2 (INCI name: dextrin myristate) by the company Miyoshi Europe, also dextrin palmitate marketed by The Innovation Company.

[0159] Other examples include THIXCIN® R from Elementis Specialties (INCI: Trihydroxystearin), OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer from Lubrizol (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), Estogel M from PolymerExpert (INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC I CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE), Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer and its derivatives, notably marketed respectively under the names Estogel Green (or Estogel G) and Estogel Green 40 by PolymerExpert, and their mixtures.

[0160] Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a thermosensitive gelling agent. Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a thixotropic gelling agent or one capable of giving the fatty phase thixotropic behavior. Such a thixotropic gelling agent is in particular chosen from the optionally hydrophobically treated fumed silicas described above.

[0161] According to the invention, a dispersion 10 according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, in particular from 1.5% to 20%, better still from 2% to 15%, and very particularly from 5% to 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase 14.

[0162] Drops

[0163] The dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention is in the form of drops, preferably macroscopic, i.e. visible to the naked eye.

[0164] In the remainder of this description, the drops of fatty phase may indifferently be designated "drop (G1)". Advantageously, a method according to the invention is intended to form dispersions in which the drops (G1) having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm. Preferably this diameter is greater than or equal to 150 pm, better still greater than or equal to 200 pm, in particular greater than or equal to 250 pm, preferably greater than or equal to 300 pm, in particular greater than or equal to 400 pm and better still greater than or equal to 500 pm.

[0165] Preferably, the diameter of the drops (G1) is greater than or equal to 100 microns, in particular greater than or equal to 250 microns, preferably greater than or equal to 500 microns, and in particular between 250 microns and 3000 microns, preferably between 500 microns and 2000 microns, or even between 750 microns and 1500 microns.

[0166] Thus, in a dispersion according to the invention, the phases constituting it form a macroscopically inhomogeneous mixture.

[0167] The drops are advantageously substantially spherical.

[0168] Advantageously, the drops advantageously present an apparent monodispersity (i.e. they are perceived by the eye as spheres of identical diameter).

[0169] Preferably, the dispersions of the invention consist of a population of monodisperse drops, in particular such that they have an average diameter D of from 100 pm to 3,000 pm, in particular from 500 pm to 3,000 pm and a coefficient of variation Cv of less than 10%, or even less than 3%.

[0170] In the context of the present description, the term "monodispersed drops" means that the population of drops of the dispersion according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodispersed drops have good monodispersity. Conversely, drops having poor monodispersity are said to be "polydispersed".

[0171] According to one method, the average diameter D of the drops is for example measured by analyzing a photograph of a batch consisting of N drops, by image processing software (Image J). Typically, according to this method, the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in pm, depending on the size of the container containing the drops of the dispersion.

[0172] Preferably, the value of N is chosen to be greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis reflects in a statistically significant manner the distribution of diameters of the drops of said emulsion. N is advantageously greater than or equal to 100, in particular in the case where the dispersion is polydisperse.

[0173] We measure the diameter Di of each drop, then we obtain the average diameter D by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values:

[0174] From these Di values, we can also obtain the standard deviation o of the diameters of the drops in the dispersion:

[0175] The standard deviation o of a dispersion reflects the distribution of the diameters D / of the drops of the dispersion around the mean diameter D .

[0176] Knowing the average diameter D e t the standard deviation o of a dispersion, we can determine that we find 95.4% of the population of drops in the diameter interval

[0177] To characterize the monodispersity of the dispersion according to this embodiment of the invention, the coefficient of variation can be calculated:

[0178] This parameter reflects the distribution of droplet diameters based on their average diameter.

[0179] The coefficient of variation Cv of the drop diameters according to this embodiment of the invention is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.

[0180] Alternatively, monodispersity can be demonstrated by placing a dispersion sample in a flask of constant circular cross-section. Gentle agitation by rotating it a quarter turn for half a second around the axis of symmetry passing through the flask, followed by a half-second rest, is carried out, before repeating the operation in reverse order, four times in a row.

[0181] The drops of the dispersed phase organize themselves in a crystalline form when they are monodisperse. Thus, they present a stacking following a pattern repeating itself in the three dimensions. It is then possible to observe a regular stacking which indicates a good monodispersity, an irregular stacking reflecting the polydispersity of the dispersion.

[0182] Such a monodisperse character results directly from the microfluidic process according to the invention.

[0183] Drops may be monophasic or multiphasic. For example, they comprise a core (which comprises at least the fatty phase), optionally a shell (or envelope or membrane) completely encapsulating the core, the core itself being able to comprise one or more phases.

[0184] According to a first embodiment, a drop according to the invention is a solid (or single-phase) particle.

[0185] According to a second embodiment, a drop according to the invention is a core / shell type particle. A core / shell type drop is a capsule which comprises a core, preferably liquid or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic, and a shell, completely encapsulating said core, said core being monophasic, and therefore based on the fatty phase.

[0186] A solid bead-like drop is illustrated in Figure 2.

[0187] According to this variant, a drop may also be a solid or core / shell type particle comprising an intermediate drop (G1) of an intermediate fatty phase, the intermediate phase (or fatty phase 14) being placed in contact with the aqueous phase 16 or the shell (when present), and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop (G2) of an internal phase (or third phase 19) arranged in the intermediate drop (G1). Such a complex drop is illustrated in Figure 4.

[0188] According to this variant, the intermediate fatty phase advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular as defined previously, in particular to improve the suspension of the drop(s) (G2) placed in the intermediate drop (G1) and thus prevent / avoid the phenomena of creaming or sedimentation of the drop(s) (G2).

[0189] Preferably, the dispersed fatty phase is transparent or at least translucent. The transparency or translucency property of the dispersed phase is determined as follows: the composition to be tested (30 mL) is poured into a 30 mL Volga jar, the composition is left for 24 hours at room temperature and a white sheet is placed underneath on which a cross about 2 mm thick is drawn with a black felt-tip pen. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at an observation distance of 40 cm, the composition is transparent or translucent.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment:

[0191] - the continuous aqueous phase of a dispersion according to the invention may itself be in the form of a direct emulsion comprising a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops (G3) whose size is preferably smaller than the size of the drops (G1), or even of the drops (G2); and / or

[0192] - the dispersed fatty phase, or even the intermediate fatty phase and / or the internal phase in the case of a multiple dispersion (or complex drop) as defined above, may be in the form of a direct or inverse emulsion comprising drops (G4) and / or (G5), the size of the drops (G4) and / or (G5) being necessarily smaller than the size of the drops (G1), or even of the drops (G2).

[0193] The drops (G3) and / or (G4) and / or (G5) are preferably microscopic, i.e. not visible to the naked eye and in particular of a size less than 100 pm, preferably less than 20 pm, and better still less than 10 pm.

[0194] In other words, the drops (G3) and / or (G4) and / or (G5) are different and independent from the drops (G1), or even from the drops (G2).

[0195] The drops (G1) of a dispersion according to the invention are advantageously devoid of a shell, in particular of a polymeric membrane or formed by interfacial polymerization. In particular, the drops (G1) of a dispersion according to the invention are not stabilized using a coacervate membrane (anionic polymer (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone) type). In other words, the contact between the continuous aqueous phase and the dispersed fatty phase is preferably direct.

[0196] According to another embodiment, the drops (G1) comprise a bark.

[0197] The presence of a bark advantageously makes it possible to reinforce the kinetic stability of the drops (G1), and therefore of the dispersion.

[0198] Aqueous solution comprising at least one salt

[0199] The aqueous solution comprises at least one salt which acts as a gelation activator of the ion-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0200] Obviously, the salt(s) is / are chosen from the salts capable of reacting with the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt. In other words, the choice of salt(s) present should be adapted with regard to the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt. By "capable of reacting with the gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt" is meant a salt capable of modulating, and in particular increasing, the viscosity of an aqueous phase comprising the hydrophilic gelling agents capable of gelling in the presence of at least said salt.

[0201] The aqueous solution comprising at least one salt (or “additional solution” or “BF” or “solution 62”) is miscible with the continuous aqueous phase 16.

[0202] This additional solution, added to the aqueous phase (16) before step (iii) and / or after step (iv), has the effect of interacting with the gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt, and thus of inducing its gelling and therefore an increase in the suspensivity (i.e. the flow threshold), or even the viscosity, of the aqueous phase 16, whereby a gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) is obtained.

[0203] As indicated previously, the viscosity of the aqueous phase 16 of the dispersion is advantageously increased to maintain the drops 12 in suspension, preferably over a period of time of at least 1 month, preferably at least 3 months, better still at least 6 months, and most particularly at least 12 months.

[0204] An additional solution according to the invention is an aqueous solution which comprises at least water. In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.

[0205] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the additional solution is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better still at least 60%, in particular between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said additional solution.

[0206] An additional solution according to the invention is an aqueous solution which further comprises at least one salt, in particular at least one monovalent or divalent ion such as for example K+, Na+, Ca++ or Mg++.

[0207] The salt may be chosen from a monovalent salt, preferably from sodium salts such as sodium chloride, potassium salts such as potassium chloride; or multivalent, in particular divalent, preferably from calcium salts such as calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium citrate, calcium carbonate, magnesium salts such as magnesium sulfate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the salt is a monovalent salt, in particular sodium chloride. Preferably, the additional solution does not comprise carbomer (or acrylic polymer).

[0208] Preferably, the additional solution does not comprise base, in particular NaOH.

[0209] Thus, an additional solution is different from a viscosity increasing solution as described in WO2015055748.

[0210] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the salt(s) and / or their quantity with regard to the gelling agent considered, and in particular its ability to gel in the presence of at least one salt, the solubility limit of the salt(s) considered, and also in such a way that the advantageous properties of a dispersion according to the invention are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0211] The aqueous solution (62) may advantageously comprise between 0.01% and 30%, preferably between 0.1% and 20%, better still between 1% and 15%, or even between 2% and 10%, by weight of salt(s) relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution (62).

[0212] The weight ratio of “hydrophilic gelling agent(s) capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt / salt(s)” is advantageously between 0.1 and 20, better still between 0.2 and 20, in particular between 0.5 and 15, preferably between 1 and 10, and better still between 2.5 and 5.

[0213] Additional compound(s)

[0214] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed fatty phase and / or the additional solution, or even the third phase 19, may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the aforementioned oils and gelling agents.

[0215] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed fatty phase and / or the additional solution, or even the third phase 19, may also comprise powders; coloring agents, in particular chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic coloring agents, materials with an optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; fillers, in particular pigments and / or pearlescent agents, in particular as described in FR3067930; emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in particular as described in EP2353577; additional hydrophilic gelling agents (or texturizing agents) other than a hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt described above; glycerin; preservatives; humectants; stabilizers; pH stabilizing agents, in particular a pH buffer (eg HEPES, PBS); chelators; emollients;retarding agents; etc. or any usual cosmetic additive; and their mixtures.;

[0216] Also, the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed fatty phase and / or the additional solution, or even the third phase 19, may further comprise at least one biological and / or cosmetic active agent chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecular agents, dermo-contracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents, anti-aging agents, perfuming agents, anticoagulants, anti-thrombogenic agents, anti-mitotic agents, anti-proliferation, anti-adhesion, anti-migration agents, cell adhesion promoters, growth factors, antiparasitic molecules, anti-inflammatories, angiogenic agents, angiogenesis inhibitors, vitamins, hormones, proteins, antifungals, antimicrobial molecules,antiseptics or antibiotics, and mixtures thereof. Such active ingredients are described in particular in FR 1 558 849.,

[0217] Additional hydrophilic gelling agent

[0218] According to a particular embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase 16 and / or the additional solution, or even the third phase 19, further comprises at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent (or “hydrophilic texture agent”), different from a hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt described previously.

[0219] As additional hydrophilic gelling agent, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water, mention may be made of: natural gelling agents, in particular chosen from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, microorganism exudates, such as alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents, in particular hyaluronic acid, semi-synthetic gelling agents, in particular chosen from cellulose derivatives and modified starches, synthetic gelling agents, in particular chosen from homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), associative polymers, other gelling agents chosen from clays, silicas such as those marketed under the names Aérosil® 90 / 130 / 150 / 200 / 300 / 380), and their mixtures.

[0220] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric; these include in particular those described in FR 2 999 921. Preferably, these are amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers and amphiphilic and non-ionic associative polymers as described below. These additional hydrophilic gelling agents are described in more detail in FR3041251.

[0221] As additional hydrophilic gelling agent, mention may be made in particular of Sucraclear HC-31 (INCI: Chondrus Crispus Powder (and) Cellulose Gum (and) Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum (and) Glucose) or Sucraclear V2 (INCI: Cellulose Gum, Chondrus Cripsus Powder (Carageenan), Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Glucose), preBIULIN C90 (INCI: Cellulose Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Inulin (and) Cellulose (and) Glucose (and) Fructose), and mixtures thereof.

[0222] The aqueous phase may further comprise at least one retarding agent. The presence of such a retarding agent in the aqueous phase (16) or (22) depending on the manufacturing process chosen advantageously makes it possible to reduce the gelling kinetics of the ion-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent, and thus to prevent blockages at the microfluidic channels and therefore mechanically to improve the stability and robustness of the manufacturing process. A retarding agent is preferably a chelating agent, in particular chosen from at least one organophosphate, and better still is tetrasodium pyrophosphate.

[0223] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compound(s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a dispersion according to the invention are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. Also, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or the quantity of additional compound(s) according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered and / or with regard to the method of manufacturing the dispersion.

[0224] These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Method

[0225] Steps (i) and (ii)

[0226] Steps (i) and (ii) of a method according to the invention fall within the general skills of a person skilled in the art.

[0227] Concerning step (ii), the addition to aqueous phase 16 of the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt can be carried out at room temperature or at a temperature above room temperature, in particular at a temperature between 60°C and 90°C. Preferably, when this addition is carried out at a temperature below 60°C, for example at room temperature, the aqueous phase further comprises at least one sequestrant, for example chosen from sodium citrate, phosphate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (or EDTA), Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate for example sold under the name Natrlquest E30 by Innospec, sodium gluconate, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof. The presence of such a sequestrant makes it possible to reduce the hydration temperature of the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt.

[0228] Steps (iii) and (iv)

[0229] Steps (iii) and (iv) of a method according to the invention may be carried out according to a microfluidic method as described in WO2012 / 120043, WO2015 / 055748 or WO2019 / 145424.

[0230] Step (vi)

[0231] The first method according to the invention comprises a step (vi) which is based at least on step (vi 1 ) described previously. In view of the above, step (vi 1 ) is prior to step (iii), and therefore prior to bringing the aqueous phase 16 and the fatty phase 14 into contact.

[0232] In particular, step (vii) is considered when a process according to the invention comprising a step (vi2) leads to dispersions in which the viscosity of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) is high, which is not desirable. Indeed, under certain conditions, the inventors have observed, at the level of a dispersion obtained with a process according to the invention comprising a step (vi2), that the viscosity of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) is sometimes devolutive.

[0233] However, with such a method according to the invention based on step (vi2), lowering the content of hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt and / or the salt content can certainly lead to lowering the viscosity of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) but sometimes to the detriment of the suspensivity with respect to the drops (G1), which is not desirable.

[0234] Against all expectations, the inventors observed that it was possible to initiate the formation of, or even form, the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) before step (iii), while remaining compatible with microfluidic constraints.

[0235] In particular, step (vil) includes, prior to step (iii), at least the following steps:

[0236] (a) adding the aqueous solution (62) to the aqueous phase (16), preferably at a temperature above room temperature, in particular at a temperature between 40°C and 100°C, or even between 50°C and 90°C, and very particularly between 60°C and 80°C;

[0237] (b) ensuring that the mixture obtained in step (a) returns to room temperature; and

[0238] (c) optionally, shear the mixture obtained in step (b).

[0239] Step (a) is advantageously carried out at a temperature above room temperature in order to improve, or even accelerate, the obtaining of a homogeneous mixture between the aqueous solution (62) and the aqueous phase (16).

[0240] Step (b) ensures that the mixture obtained in step (a) returns to room temperature, whereby the viscosity of said mixture increases over time until it reaches its maximum value.

[0241] According to a first variant, step (b) is carried out at room temperature for a sufficient time for the viscosity of the mixture obtained in step (a) to reach its maximum value, this time being able to be between 30 minutes and 5 hours, preferably between 1 hour and 3 hours.

[0242] This duration falls within the general skills of the person skilled in the art.

[0243] According to a second variant, step (b) is carried out at a temperature below room temperature, in particular at a temperature below or equal to 20°C, preferably below or equal to 15°C, or even below or equal to 10°C. This second variant is advantageous in that it makes it possible to accelerate the cooling of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) and therefore to reach the maximum viscosity of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) more quickly.

[0244] Step (c), optional, aims to shear the mixture obtained in step (b). This shearing makes it possible to reduce the viscosity of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) without altering its suspensive properties and without altering its appearance, in particular its transparency. This shearing also makes it possible to optimize the stability of this viscosity and its suspensive power, in particular when this gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) is subsequently subjected to heating, for example to a temperature between 50°C and 90°C, as well as the resistance of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) to shearing and oscillations.

[0245] The second method according to the invention comprises a step (vi) which is based at least on step (vi2) described previously.

[0246] The second method according to the invention is implemented using a microfluidic method, in a device 30 as illustrated in figure 3.

[0247] This device 30 comprises a nozzle 32 for forming the drops 12, a stage 31 for injecting the additional solution and a receptacle 33 for receiving the drops 12 formed.

[0248] In the case of a simple dispersion, the forming nozzle 32 comprises at least one internal conduit 34 for supplying an internal fluid 36 comprising the fatty phase 14, and an external circulation conduit 38, arranged around the internal conduit 34 to supply and circulate an external fluid 40 comprising the aqueous phase 16.

[0249] The apparatus 30 further comprises means 46 for supplying internal fluid 36 into the internal conduit 34, and means 48 for supplying external fluid 40 into the annular space delimited between the internal conduit 34 and the external conduit 38.

[0250] In the example shown in Figure 3, the maximum diameter of the conduits 34 and 38 is less than 3 mm to preserve the microfluidic nature of the process.

[0251] The internal conduit 34 is advantageously arranged coaxially in the external conduit 38. It is connected upstream to the supply means 46. It opens downstream through a downstream opening 54 arranged in the external conduit 38.

[0252] The external conduit 38 delimits with the internal conduit 34 an annular space connected upstream to the supply means 48.

[0253] The external conduit 38 has a downstream opening 55 which is located above and away from the container 33. It opens into the solution injection stage 62.

[0254] The supply means 46 and 48 each comprise, for example, a syringe pump, a peristaltic pump or another pressure generating system controlling the flow rate, such as, for example, a pressure pot coupled with a flow meter and a flow regulation system. Each of the supply means 46 and 48 is capable of conveying a respective fluid 36 and 40 at a controlled and adjustable flow rate.

[0255] In the case of multiple dispersion, the forming nozzle 32 comprises at least one internal conduit 34 for supplying a third internal fluid 36 comprising the third phase 19, and an intermediate conduit 37 for supplying an intermediate fluid 39 intended to form the fatty phase 14, arranged around the internal conduit 34.

[0256] This embodiment is illustrated in Figures 4 and 5.

[0257] The forming nozzle 32 further comprises an external circulation conduit 38, arranged around the internal conduit 34 and / or the intermediate conduit 37 to supply and circulate an external fluid 40 comprising the aqueous phase 16.

[0258] The apparatus 30 further comprises means 46 for supplying internal fluid 36 into the internal conduit 34, means 47 for supplying intermediate fluid 39 into the intermediate conduit 37, and means 48 for supplying external fluid 40 into the annular space delimited between the internal conduit 34 and the external conduit 38.

[0259] In the example shown in Figure 5, the maximum diameter of the conduits 34, 37 and 38 is less than 3 mm to preserve the microfluidic nature of the process.

[0260] The internal conduit 34 is advantageously arranged coaxially in the external conduit 38. It is connected upstream to the supply means 46. It opens downstream through a downstream opening 52 arranged in the external conduit 38, set back relative to the downstream opening 54 defined by the intermediate conduit 37, above this opening 54.

[0261] According to a first variant, the distance separating the downstream opening 52 of the internal conduit 34 and the downstream opening 54 of the intermediate conduit 37 is preferably greater than 1 time the diameter of the intermediate conduit 37.

[0262] According to a second variant, the distance separating the downstream opening 52 of the internal conduit 34 and the downstream opening 54 of the intermediate conduit 37 is preferably less than 1 time the diameter of the intermediate conduit 37, or even advantageously the downstream opening 52 of the internal conduit 34 and the downstream opening 54 of the intermediate conduit 37 are located on the same horizontal plane.

[0263] The intermediate conduit 37 extends around the internal conduit 34. It delimits with the internal conduit 34 an annular space connected upstream to the supply means 47. The intermediate conduit 37 opens through the downstream opening 54.

[0264] The external conduit 38 delimits with the intermediate conduit 37 and / or the internal conduit 34 an annular space connected upstream to the supply means 48. The external conduit 38 has a downstream opening 55 which is located above and away from the container 33. It opens into the stage 31 for injecting the additional solution.

[0265] The supply means 46, 47 and 48 each comprise, for example, a syringe pump, a peristaltic pump or another pressure generating system controlling the flow rate, such as, for example, a pressure pot coupled with a flow meter and a flow regulation system.

[0266] Each of the supply means 46, 47 and 48 is capable of conveying a respective fluid 36, 39, 40 at a controlled and adjustable flow rate.

[0267] For the two variant embodiments of the second manufacturing method described above, the stage 31 comprises at least one conduit 60 for injecting a solution 62, and means 64 for supplying the solution 62 into the conduit 60.

[0268] In the example shown in Figure 3, the stage 31 comprises a peripheral conduit 60 for injecting the solution 62.

[0269] The peripheral duct 60 extends at the periphery of the external circulation duct 38, parallel, and in this case coaxially, with the local axis of the external duct 38. The downstream opening 55 of the external duct 38 extends into the peripheral duct 60.

[0270] The peripheral conduit 60 defines, downstream of the downstream opening 55, a distribution opening 66 which opens into the container 33 or above it.

[0271] The peripheral conduit 60 delimits, with the external conduit 38, an annular space which opens upstream of the distribution opening 66 in the example shown in FIG. 3.

[0272] Thus, the peripheral conduit 60 is configured to allow the injection of the solution 62 coaxially with the circulation axis of the dispersion containing drops 12 and the aqueous phase 16, just at the outlet of the external circulation conduit 38.

[0273] In this example, the peripheral conduit 60 is suitable for collecting the drops 12 and the aqueous phase 16 into which the solution 62 has been introduced, and for conveying them to the dispensing opening 66.

[0274] The supply means 64 comprise a reservoir 68 containing the solution 62, and a conveying unit (not shown).

[0275] The conveying unit comprises, for example, a syringe pump, a peristaltic pump or another pressure generating system controlling the flow rate, such as, for example, a pressure pot coupled with a flow meter and a flow regulation system. For the two variant embodiments of the second manufacturing method described above, the container 33 is arranged below the dispensing opening 66.

[0276] Alternatively, it contains a volume 70 of liquid intended to form part of the second phase 16, advantageously a volume of external fluid 40.

[0277] Also, the upper surface of the volume 70 of fluid is located axially away from the distribution opening 66, taken along the axis A-A' of the conduit 60, so that the drops 12 dispersed in the second phase 16 fall under the effect of their weight through a volume of air between the distribution opening 66 and the upper surface of the volume 70 of liquid. In a variant (not shown), the downstream opening 66 is immersed in the volume of liquid 70.

[0278] In the examples shown in Figures 3 and 5, the device 30 has been illustrated with a single nozzle 32, associated with a single stage 31.

[0279] In an advantageous variant, illustrated in Figure 8, the system 30 comprises a plurality of nozzles 32, all connected downstream to a common stage 31, the nozzles 32 being arranged in parallel above a container 33. At least some of the nozzles 32 are offset laterally relative to the stage 31. A collection circuit makes it possible to collect the drops 12 in the liquid 40 at the outlet of each nozzle 32 to gather them and introduce them into the stage 31.

[0280] A second method according to the invention intended to manufacture a simple dispersion, implemented in the installation of figure 3, will now be described.

[0281] Initially, the internal fluid 36 is prepared. The fatty phase 14 contains at least one oil, and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular heat-sensitive.

[0282] The external fluid 40 is also prepared. The aqueous phase 16 contains at least water and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt.

[0283] For obvious reasons, the steps of mixing the constituent compounds of the fatty phase 14 and the aqueous phase 16 are carried out under conditions suitable for forming fluid phases compatible with the microfluidic method according to the invention. In particular, and if necessary, the step of mixing the constituent compounds of the fatty phase and / or the step of mixing the constituent compounds of the aqueous phase is carried out hot, and in particular at a temperature of between 60 and 100°C, preferably between 70 and 90°C. This is particularly the case when a phase comprises at least one heat-sensitive gelling agent or to facilitate the incorporation of a raw material into the solvent in question.

[0284] Advantageously, the internal fluid 36 and / or the external fluid 40 may further comprise at least one additional compound as defined previously.

[0285] An aqueous solution 62 is also prepared.

[0286] Then, the internal fluid 36 and the external fluid 40 are arranged respectively in the respective supply means 46 and 48.

[0287] The aqueous solution 62 is placed in the supply means 64.

[0288] Optionally, a liquid 70, formed from an aqueous solvent of a nature similar to that of the external fluid 40, is introduced into the container 33.

[0289] Then, the supply means 46, 48 and 64 are activated.

[0290] The internal fluid flow 36 circulating in the internal conduit 34 enters coaxially into the conduit 38 at the downstream opening 54 of the internal conduit 34.

[0291] At the downstream opening 54 of the internal conduit 34, drops 12 of internal fluid 36 are surrounded by a film of external fluid 40.

[0292] The drops 12 then circulate in the external fluid 40 towards the downstream opening 55.

[0293] Then, the drops 12 in the external fluid 40 arrive in the stage 31.

[0294] The solution 62 is then injected coaxially with the flow of drops 12 into the external fluid 40, at the periphery of the external fluid 40. The solution 62 diffuses into the external fluid 40 during its transport through the downstream part of the peripheral conduit 60.

[0295] Thus, the viscosity of the external fluid 40 is increased after formation of the drops 12, in particular to ensure satisfactory suspension of the drops 12 in the external fluid 40 and / or to achieve the desired texture.

[0296] All or part of this increase in viscosity occurs in the vicinity of the dispensing opening 66, simultaneously and / or after the injection of the solution 62, before the introduction of the dispersion 10 into the container 33.

[0297] At least one drop 12 is then received in an external drop 72 of external fluid 40 which is formed at the outlet of the peripheral conduit 60, at the level of the distribution opening 66.

[0298] The external drop 72 falls into the container 33, if necessary through a volume of air and the drops 12 of first phase 14 remain suspended in the gelled aqueous phase 22 formed by the external fluid 40, the aqueous solution 62, or even by the liquid 70 when such a liquid is present in the container 33.

[0299] In a variant, the gelled aqueous phase 22 forms a jet at the outlet of the peripheral conduit 60 and is collected without fragmenting. The injection of the solution 62 and the increase in the viscosity of the aqueous phase 16 are therefore carried out in a minimally invasive manner, and directly in line with the production of the drops 12.

[0300] This ensures the use of an aqueous phase that is sufficiently fluid to allow adequate formation of drops 12 at the nozzle 32 while ensuring a robust drop manufacturing process. Nevertheless, the final product comprises a continuous phase with a satisfactory viscosity to give it a pleasant texture and satisfactory suspension of the drops 12 formed, via a continuous, simple, safe and low-cost manufacturing process.

[0301] The method according to the invention is therefore particularly effective for forming stable drops 12, with dimensions greater than 100 pm, in particular greater than 250 pm, better still greater than 500 pm, in stable suspension in a gelled aqueous phase 22, without the use of carbomer or surfactant and in a particularly controlled manner.

[0302] The method according to the invention limits shear, since the continuous aqueous phase 16 containing the drops 12 remains fluid until the last moment. No force is generated to deform or fragment the drops 12 when the solution 62 is injected.

[0303] Creaming is also reduced. The diffusion time of the solution 62 in the continuous phase 16 is very low, given the small thickness to be crossed. The continuous phase 16 almost immediately acquires a suspensive character when it is collected in the container 33.

[0304] In the variant shown in Figures 6 and 7, the peripheral conduit 60 opens just at the outlet of the external conduit 38. The downstream edge of the peripheral conduit 60 is located at the same horizontal level as the downstream edge of the external conduit 38.

[0305] The distribution opening 66 is then located at the same horizontal level as the downstream opening 55 of the external circulation conduit 38.

[0306] Furthermore, the stage 31 comprises a central conduit 80 for injecting at least part of the solution 62, which extends to the center of the external circulation conduit 38.

[0307] In this example, the central conduit 80 opens just at the outlet of the external conduit 38. Its downstream edge is located at the same horizontal level as the downstream edge of the external conduit 38.

[0308] The distribution opening 82 of the central duct 80 is therefore located at the same horizontal level as the downstream opening 55 of the external circulation duct 38 and the distribution opening 66 of the peripheral duct 60. This conformation reduces the thickness of the flow comprising the drops 12, the external fluid 40, and the solution 62, since this flow thins by gravity when penetrating into the volume of air located at the outlet of the ducts 38, 60, 80, as illustrated in FIG. 7.

[0309] The mixing of solution 62, or even the increase in viscosity, in the external fluid 40 is then very homogeneous.

[0310] The person skilled in the art will take care to adjust the parameters of the microfluidic manufacturing process to guarantee its proper functioning, in particular so as to ensure the implementation of phases with a suitable fluidity achievable in particular by an increase in the temperature of said phases and / or sufficient extemporaneous shearing.

[0311] Uses

[0312] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention can be used directly, following the aforementioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition.

[0313] The invention also relates to the use of a dispersion according to the invention for the preparation of a composition, in particular cosmetic, pharmaceutical, nutritional or agri-food, preferably a cosmetic composition and in particular a care and / or makeup composition for a keratin material, in particular for the skin.

[0314] The present invention thus also relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care and / or makeup of a keratin material, in particular of the skin and / or hair, and more particularly of the skin, comprising at least one dispersion according to the invention, optionally in association with at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

[0315] The dispersions or compositions according to the invention can therefore be used in particular in the cosmetic field.

[0316] They may include, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients or compounds, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

[0317] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0318] According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is represented directly by the aqueous continuous phase as described above. In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for cosmetic applications, and particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to a keratin material, particularly the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin.

[0319] The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be, for example, a cream, a lotion, a serum and a gel for the skin (hands, face, feet, etc.), a foundation (liquid, paste), a bath and shower preparation (salts, mousses, oils, gels, etc.), a hair care product (hair dyes and bleaches), a cleaning product (lotions, powders, shampoos), a hair care product (lotions, creams, oils), a styling product (lotions, hairsprays, brilliantines), a shaving product (soaps, mousses, lotions, etc.), a product intended to be applied to the lips, a sunscreen product, a sunless tanning product, a skin whitening product, an anti-wrinkle product. In particular, the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be an anti-aging serum, a youth serum, a moisturizing serum or a perfumed water.

[0320] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a face and / or body and / or hair care product, an anti-aging treatment, a sunscreen, an oily skin care product, a whitening treatment, a moisturizing treatment, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser, a shower gel or a shampoo.

[0321] Thus, in view of the above, a dispersion or composition according to the invention is oral or topical, preferably topical, and better topical on a keratin material, in particular the skin, and better the skin of the face.

[0322] A care composition according to the invention may in particular be a sun composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.

[0323] The compositions according to the invention can be in various forms, in particular in the form of cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or even mist.

[0324] Thus, in view of the above, a composition according to the invention is oral or topical, preferably topical, and better topical on a keratin material, in particular the skin, and better the skin of the face.

[0325] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one dispersion or at least one aforementioned cosmetic composition. The present invention also relates to the use of a dispersion or a composition according to the invention, for improving the surface appearance of the skin, in particular for moisturizing the skin and / or reducing wrinkles and fine lines.

[0326] Throughout the description, the expression "comprising a" shall be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified. The expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." shall be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0327] Particular examples of implementation of the method according to the invention for obtaining dispersions 10 will now be described.

[0328] EXAMPLES

[0329] Unless otherwise indicated, in the following examples:

[0330] - Steps (iii) and (iv) are carried out using a microfluidic device as described in WO2015055748. The device is adapted to allow the fatty phase, or optionally the aqueous phase, to be heated to 80°C.

[0331] - The suspensivity is evaluated by means of the following stability test. A dispersion is packaged in 3 polypropylene (PP) receptacles of 30 ml filled to half. After 1 day at room temperature, each test undergoes one of the three transport tests below (one receptacle per test), namely:

[0332] - roller test (i.e. horizontal circular movement): Wheaton reference, for 1 hour;

[0333] - vibrating table (i.e. vertical circular movement): reference Heidolph Unimax 1010, for 1 hour; and

[0334] - 3D mixer (i.e. random movements): for 6 minutes.

[0335] - The yield point is assessed using a shear rate sweep protocol on a rheometer (reference TA Instruments), according to the method described in HA Barnes, A Handbook of Elementary Rheology; Institute of Non-Newtonian Fluid Mechanics. University of Wales, 2000 or in http: / / www.tainstruments.com / pdf / literature / RH025.pdf.

[0336] - The transparency of the gelled continuous aqueous phase is determined as follows: pour the composition to be tested into a 30mL Volga jar, leave the composition for 24 hours at room temperature and place a white sheet underneath on which a cross about 2mm thick is drawn with a black felt-tip pen. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at an observation distance of 40 cm, the composition is transparent or translucent.

[0337] The tights, playtime and water breakage are evaluated from a blind test on a panel of 24 women between 22 and 45 years old. Each woman applies 0.25 grams of the composition to be tested on a forearm.

[0338] Play-time can be defined as the application time of the tested composition, and in particular the time during which the user can apply the composition until its complete penetration.

[0339] Water breakage can be defined as the ability of a composition to release water upon application, and therefore to provide a fresh and moisturizing effect. In other words, it is the sensation felt when a gel breaks under applied pressure and releases the water it contains.

[0340] Scoring criteria: [Table 1] evaluated at room temperature Example 1: Impact of the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt

[0341] In this example, 3 dispersions are prepared using the aforementioned microfluidic manufacturing method in which step (vi) is based on step (vi2).

[0342] The compositions of the starting phases are as follows [Table 2]: Sufficient Quantity For. The preparation of the PG, PA and BF phases falls within the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art. For carrying out steps (iii), (iv) and (vi2), the flow rates are as follows:

[0343] [Table 3]

[0344] The monodisperse drops of dispersed fatty phase have a size of approximately 1200 pm.

[0345] The results are summarized in the following table.

[0346] [Table 4]

[0347] This example 1 shows that it is possible to manufacture macroscopic dispersions by means of a microfluidic process without resorting to the use of carbomer, by replacing the “carbomere / sodium hydroxide solution” system with a “hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt / salt solution” system. This example 1 further shows that the dispersions according to the invention are stable and have satisfactory performances and at least similar to those of the prior art represented by composition 1 A. Example 2: Impact of the content of hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt

[0348] In this example, 4 dispersions are prepared using the aforementioned microfluidic manufacturing method in which step (vi) is based on step

[0349] (vi2). The compositions of the starting phases are as follows.

[0350] [Table 5]

[0351] The preparation of the PG, PA and BF phases falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. For carrying out steps (iii), (iv) and (vi2), the flow rates are identical to those described in example 1.

[0352] The monodisperse drops of dispersed fat phase have a size of approximately 1200 pm. The results are summarized in the following table.

[0353] [Table 6]

[0354] This example 2 shows that the content of hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt makes it possible to modulate the performance of the dispersions according to the invention.

[0355] Example 3: Impact of salt content in the additional solution

[0356] In this example, 6 dispersions are prepared using the aforementioned microfluidic manufacturing method in which step (vi) is based on step

[0357] (vi2). The compositions of the starting phases PA and PG and the flow rates are identical to those described in example 1 B above.

[0358] In this example 3, the salt content of the additional solution (BF) is varied according to the table below. [Table 7]

[0359] The monodisperse drops of dispersed fat phase have a size of approximately 1200 pm. The results are summarized in the following table.

[0360] [Table 8]

[0361] This example 3 shows that the salt content in the additional solution (BF) makes it possible to modulate the properties of the dispersions according to the invention in terms of suspensivity, and mechanically of processability.

[0362] Surprisingly, the variation in salt content has little impact on the “absence of stickiness” criterion.

[0363] Example 4: production of a dispersion according to the invention

[0364] Example 4 differs from Example 1 B by the addition, in the aqueous phase (AP), of an additional hydrophilic gelling agent other than a hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt, namely preBIULIN C90 (INCI: Cellulose Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Inulin (and) Cellulose (and) Glucose (and) Fructose) at 0.3% relative to the weight of the aqueous phase. Similar results were obtained by replacing preBIULIN C90 with Sucraclear HC-31 (INCI: Chondrus Crispus Powder (and) Cellulose Gum (and) Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum (and) Glucose) or Sucraclear V2 (INCI: Cellulose Gum, Chondrus Cripsus Powder (Carageenan), Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Glucose) at the same concentration.

[0365] The monodisperse drops of dispersed fat phase have a size of approximately 1200 pm. The results are summarized in the following table.

[0366] [Table 9]

[0367] This example 4 shows that the presence of an additional hydrophilic gelling agent, in this case Sucraclear V2, notably improves the properties of a dispersion according to the invention in terms of processability in microfluidics.

[0368] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the Applicant believes that the presence of an additional hydrophilic gelling agent increases the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase without increasing the content of hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt, which would have the consequence of significantly degrading the sensoriality.

[0369] Example 5: Production of a dispersion with a process according to the invention comprising step (vii) and step (vi2)

[0370] In this example, a dispersion is prepared using the aforementioned microfluidic manufacturing method in which step (vi) comprises a step (vi 1 ) and a step (vi2).

[0371] Example 5 differs from Example 1 B by the addition, in the aqueous phase (AP), of 0.15% of sodium chloride relative to the weight of the aqueous phase (AP).

[0372] The additional solution (BF) is therefore adapted accordingly as described below. [Table 10]

[0373] Sufficient Quantity For.

[0374] The preparation of the PG, PA and BF phases falls within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0375] The preparation of this mixture also falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0376] The flow configuration is as follows:

[0377] [Table 1 1 ]

[0378] The monodisperse drops of dispersed fatty phase have a size of approximately 1200 pm.

[0379] Compared to Example 1 B, Example 5 demonstrates advantageous properties at the microfluidic process level, mainly during the period between the formation of the dispersed phase drops and the injection of the additional solution.

[0380] This advantage results in a more stable, and therefore more robust, manufacturing process, and in easier collection and better quality bulk due to improved suspension of the drops from the aqueous phase, and therefore more effective prevention of the occurrence of creaming or coalescence phenomena of the drops before the injection of the additional solution (BF).

Claims

CLAIMS 1. A method of forming a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) of fatty phase (14) dispersed in a gelled continuous aqueous phase (22), the method comprising the following steps: (i) having a fatty phase (14) comprising at least one oil and optionally, at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive; (ii) having an aqueous phase (16), substantially immiscible with the fatty phase (14), comprising at least water and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt; (iii) forming drops of fatty phase (14) in the aqueous phase (16) or the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22); (iv) flow, in a circulation conduit (38), of the drops (12); (v) recovery of a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) and gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) in a container (33); characterized in that the method comprises at least one following step (vi): (vil) before step (iii), adding to the aqueous phase (16) at least a portion of an aqueous solution (62); and / or (vi2) injecting at least a portion of the aqueous solution (62) into the circulation conduit (38) or at the outlet of the circulation conduit (38), upstream of the container (33), said aqueous solution (62) comprising at least one salt capable of reacting with the hydrophilic gelling agent, said dispersion being free of carbomer and optionally of amodimethicone.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation of the gelled continuous aqueous phase (22) according to step (vil) comprises at least the following steps: (a) adding the aqueous solution (62) to the aqueous phase (16), preferably at a temperature above room temperature, in particular at a temperature between 40°C and 100°C, or even between 50°C and 90°C, and very particularly between 60°C and 80°C; (b) ensuring that the mixture obtained in step (a) returns to room temperature; and (c) optionally, shear the mixture obtained in step (b).

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the drops (12) having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed fatty phase and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt is a polyelectrolyte reactive to at least one salt.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt is chosen from natural polymers, biosynthetic polymers, modified polymers, and mixtures thereof, preferably is chosen from a polysaccharide based on algins, alginates, pectins, carrageenans, gellan gum, diutan gum, furcellaran, or one of their derivatives, and mixtures thereof, in particular is chosen from gellan gum and / or carrageenans, and very particularly from gellan gum and / or iota-carrageenans.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase (16) comprises between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 2.5%, better still between 0.05% and 1%, and very particularly between 0.08% and 0.5%, by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (16).

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt is monovalent, preferably chosen from sodium salts such as sodium chloride, potassium salts such as potassium chloride; or multivalent, in particular divalent, preferably chosen from calcium salts such as calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium citrate, calcium carbonate, magnesium salts such as magnesium sulfate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the salt is a monovalent salt, in particular sodium chloride.

8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous solution (62) comprises between 0.01% and 30%, preferably between 0.1% and 20%, better still between 1% and 15%, or even between 2% and 10%, by weight of salt(s) relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution (62).

9. Method according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 8, characterized in that the drops (12) and the aqueous phase (16) flow along a local axis in the circulation conduit (38), the injection of the aqueous solution (62) taking place substantially parallel to the local axis.

10. Method according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9, characterized in that the injection of the aqueous solution (62) is carried out at the outlet of the circulation conduit (38).

11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, upstream of the flow step (iv), a step of forming the drops (12) in the circulation conduit (38).

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion (10) comprises from 1% to 60%, in particular from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 40%, and better still from 15% to 30%, by weight of fatty phase (14) relative to the total weight of the dispersion (10).

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; fatty substances which are solid at ambient temperature and pressure; and mixtures thereof.

14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion (10) comprises from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, in particular from 1.5% to 20%, better still from 2% to 15%, and very particularly from 5% to 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase (14).

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase (16) and / or the aqueous solution (62) further comprises at at least one additional hydrophilic gelling agent other than a hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt.

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion does not comprise a surfactant.

17. Apparatus (30) for forming a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12), comprising: - a circulation conduit (38) containing drops (12) of fatty phase (14) in an aqueous phase (16) substantially immiscible with the fatty phase (14); - a container (33) for recovering a dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) and the aqueous phase (16); characterized in that the apparatus (30) comprises: - a reservoir (68) containing an aqueous solution (62) comprising at least one salt; - at least one conduit (60) for injecting the aqueous solution (62), connected to the reservoir (68), and opening into the circulation conduit (38) or at the outlet of the circulation conduit (38), upstream of the container (33), the fatty phase (14) comprising at least one oil and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive; the aqueous phase (16), substantially immiscible with the fatty phase (14), comprising at least water and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent capable of gelling in the presence of at least one salt; and the dispersion (10) being free of carbomer and optionally of amodimethicone.

18. Apparatus (30) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the circulation conduit (38) extends along a local axis of circulation of the drops (12) and of the aqueous phase (16), the injection conduit (60) opening coaxially with the local axis.

19. Dispersion (10) comprising drops (12) of fatty phase (14) dispersed in a gelled continuous aqueous phase (22), in which: - the drops (12) having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed fatty phase and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm; - the fatty phase comprises at least one oil and optionally at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive; and - the gelled continuous aqueous phase comprises at least water, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent gelled by at least one salt, said dispersion being free of carbomer and optionally of amodimethicone.