Method for obtaining an algae metabolite composition for cosmetic use, extracts and compositions derived from such a method and cosmetic use of said extracts and compositions

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for obtaining a composition of algae metabolites for cosmetic use, consisting in bringing a preparation of at least one wild or cultivated alga into contact with a DES-type solvent, said DES-type solvent being chosen to consist of a mixture comprising at least one compound chosen from the amino acids, organic acids, alcohols and sugars. The invention also relates to the extract and the cosmetic composition resulting from the method, and to the corresponding cosmetic use.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Process for obtaining a composition of algae metabolites for cosmetic use, extracts and compositions resulting from such a process and cosmetic use of these extracts and compositions

[0003] Technical field of the invention

[0004] The present invention belongs to the technical field of the extraction of plant material for cosmetic purposes, in particular using natural solvents.

[0005] More particularly, the invention aims to use algae, typically macro-algae, as a source biological material, and to extract targeted active products from them, usable in the cosmetics industry, from extraction solvents themselves belonging to green chemistry.

[0006] Technical background

[0007] In recent years, there has been a growing interest in natural skincare and cosmetics, increasing the search for active compounds within natural products. Due to their biological richness, algae have already been used as a source plant material for extracting active ingredients for cosmetic use.

[0008] Indeed, although they are mainly composed of water, algae include interesting metabolites and constituents, such as phlorotannins, mannitol, polysaccharides made up of sugars such as glucose or fucose or even hydrophobic compounds such as carotenoids and chlorophylls, as well as other active compounds. Thus, we know that pure algal molecules or those in the form of extracts can be added to cosmetic formulations for their various properties, such as their moisturizing, firming or slimming activity.

[0009] Among the known processes for extracting metabolites of algal origin, and more generally of plant origin, are solvent extraction processes.

[0010] A solvent is a generally liquid substance that has the ability to solubilize and dissolve molecules without causing any chemical modification of these substances, and without modifying itself. More than a hundred tons of organic solvents are produced annually in the world for industry, but most of them do not correspond to the principles of green chemistry, the goal of which is to obtain safe, clean and energy-efficient chemical processes. Among these principles of green chemistry, we can cite the use of less toxic solvents and auxiliaries, or the use of renewable raw materials.

[0011] The most commonly used solvents are organic solvents such as hexane, benzene, or acetone. All of these solvents have little respect for the principles of green chemistry. These synthetic solvents, due to their petrochemical source, are the subject of controversy among scientists and the general public. They also have the disadvantage of being volatile, exhibiting low selectivity, and have a limited range of polarity. Although some solvents are considered non-toxic, such as water, ethanol, or more broadly alcohols, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, or butylene glycol, which are widely used in the cosmetics field, they are not always effective in optimally extracting less polar molecules.Similarly, hydrophobic solvents, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride or sunflower oil, widely used in cosmetics, do not provide optimal extraction efficiency for plant metabolites. Their use, particularly for extracting active ingredients to be incorporated into compositions, such as cosmetic compositions, does not usually allow for optimal extraction and / or avoidance of preservatives in these compositions.

[0012] This is why neoteric solvents are widely developed to replace traditional solvents. These alternative solvents, in addition to improving selectivity and expanding the polarity range, are used to reduce the toxicity, volatility, and hazard of solvents, and thus better comply with the principles of green chemistry.

[0013] Deep eutectic solvents (DES) are among these new solvents. They are sustainable solvents derived from renewable resources and are easy to prepare, without a purification step. They are usually composed of two or three components capable of associating together via hydrogen bonds. They are generally described as a mixture of at least one hydrogen bond acceptor and one hydrogen bond donor that has a certain stoichiometry that will form a eutectic, thus giving the mixture a lower melting point than each of the components. When the components of these solvents are naturally occurring compounds, such as primary plant metabolites, they are called NaDES (Natural Deep eutectic solvent).

[0014] The invention aims precisely to use these DES solvents to extract metabolites from algae for cosmetic use.

[0015] NaDES are indeed natural solvents with a strong extracting power: they are also present in nature for the survival of species in extreme conditions, and allow the storage and transport of molecules that are not soluble in water, or when there is little water. These innovative and effective solvents, which generally allow for the elimination of preservatives, are still little used in cosmetics. The inventors have discovered that their use as an algae extraction solvent makes it possible to obtain active cosmetic extracts, which can be integrated into various cosmetic compositions.

[0016] It is already known to use NaDES as extraction solvents to produce different extracts from biological material, typically plant or animal.

[0017] Thus, patent application FR3036618A1 published by Gattefossé in December 2016 deals with extraction processes carried out from plant material, and the use of so-called "green" solvents, prepared from bio-sourced, biodegradable and non-toxic molecules. In particular, with the aim of improving existing plant extract preparation processes so that they meet cosmetic requirements while ensuring adequate quality of the extracts produced. This application proposes to produce plant extracts by extraction with NaDES. The NaDES mentioned in this prior document are capable of extracting plant metabolites from their seeds, leaves, fruits, flowers and / or bulbs. The only plant cited and tested in this prior patent document is the Calendula officinalis flower. This prior patent document also proposes to use the plant extracts produced in the production, for example, of cosmetic compositions.But these NaDES are not disclosed as being capable of extracting metabolites from algae.

[0018] Also, patent application FR3034626A1 published by Naturex in October 2016 deals with NaDES for extracting plant, animal, or prokaryotic biological material. This document mentions that the plant extracts produced can be integrated into all kinds of compositions, such as cosmetic compositions, but also many other compositions of food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, oenological, or even perfume types. In order to improve existing extraction processes using NaDES, this document proposes to extract natural biological compounds with very specific NaDES, which include betaine. These NaDES have been tested to extract biological metabolites from plants, such as cherry blossoms, saffron, fennel, rose of Jericho, rosemary, or olive leaves.These betaine-based NaDES, however, are not discussed, or even disclosed, as being capable of extracting metabolites from algae.

[0019] Again, patent application WO2011 / 155829A1 published by Leiden University in December 2011 deals with a process for extracting biological material, for use in the cosmetics industry, but also in many other industries, such as food, pharmaceuticals, or agrochemicals. In particular, with the aim of improving existing extraction processes from natural sources without using synthetic compounds, this application proposes extracting biological material with either NaDES or ionic liquids. These NaDES and ionic liquids are disclosed as being suitable for extracting metabolites from many types of material, such as plants (vanilla, Taxus plant, Artemisia plant, Papaver plant, etc.), insects, animals, or even microorganisms. Extraction from red rose flowers has been tested in particular.The NaDES presented in this document are not, however, discussed, or even disclosed, as being capable of extracting metabolites from algae.

[0020] Objectives of the invention

[0021] A first object of the present invention consists of implementing in a new way extraction processes applicable to algal resources, and adapted to obtaining extracts for cosmetic use, using NaDES type solvents.

[0022] Another objective of the invention is to select from DES type solvents extraction solvent formulas which comply with the principles of cosmetics and cosmetic regulations and which are more effective, in particular in terms of extraction yield of active ingredients, selectivity of these active ingredients, stability of the extracted molecules, and / or which make it possible to do without preservatives.

[0023] No notable publications have been identified on the use of natural solvents, particularly NaDES, for the extraction of marine plants, such as algae. It appears that the known work on this subject is incomplete, and that the tests carried out use, for example, choline chloride in the composition of DES, a compound that is not compatible with cosmetic uses.

[0024] Within the framework of the invention, DES type solvents have been characterized satisfactorily, using methods that are sufficiently reliable to be able to envisage industrialization.

[0025] An objective of the invention is also to propose new cosmetic compositions based on algae including cosmetic active ingredients derived from extraction processes using these types of solvents.

[0026] These objectives, as well as others which will appear subsequently, are achieved using a method according to the invention.

[0027] Summary of the invention

[0028] In particular, the invention relates to a method for obtaining a composition of metabolites and / or constituents of algae for cosmetic use, consisting of bringing into contact a preparation of at least one algae (typically, a wild or cultivated macroalga) with a DES type solvent, said DES type solvent being chosen so as to consist of a mixture comprising two or three compounds chosen from amino acids, organic acids, alcohols and sugars, in the presence of water or not.

[0029] More specifically, the method according to the invention finds a first implementation method in the form of a hydrophilic extraction, according to which: either the lactic acid / glycerol DES (1:1) is brought into contact with a preparation of at least one brown macro-alga via a hydrophilic extraction, to obtain a composition containing in particular phlorotannins and / or small osmolytes such as mannitol or the glycine / arginine / sorbitol DES (1:1:3) is brought into contact with a preparation of at least one macro-alga via a hydrophilic extraction, to obtain a composition comprising metabolites and / or constituents of algae containing in particular osmolytes and / or sugars and sugar derivatives including polysaccharides.

[0030] Advantageously, according to this first hydrophilic extraction method, the method comprises the following steps: grinding a dried algae to obtain flakes 0.01 to 5 cm wide, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 cm, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 cm; bringing said algae flakes into contact with said DES, with stirring for a period of between 10 and 60 min, preferably between 20 and 40 min, at a temperature between 30°C and 70°C, preferably between 40°C and 60°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 2 and 6% by weight, preferably between 3 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; filtration of the algae residues formed in the previous step on a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm;

[0031] -filtration of the final extract obtained on Büchner with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm; recovery of the final extract in liquid form, said extract constituting said composition of algae metabolites for cosmetic use.

[0032] Advantageously, said algae can be desalinated by soaking in fresh water before drying.

[0033] Also, advantageously, said dried seaweed is dried at room temperature in the sun, or in a tobacco dryer, or in a rotary dryer at a temperature between 35°C and 90°C, preferably between 45°C and 80°C, more preferably between 55°C and 70°C.

[0034] According to another advantageous characteristic, before said contacting step, said DES is adjusted to a water content of between 15% and 60% by weight of water, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight of water.

[0035] According to another advantageous characteristic, after said step of filtration of the algae residues, the pH of said extract is adjusted between 4 and 7, preferably between 5 and 6, with a 30% sodium hydroxide solution or citric acid.

[0036] It therefore appears that this method according to the invention is simple to implement and control, and has the advantage of not requiring particularly expensive equipment.

[0037] Still according to the invention, the process finds a second method of implementation combining hydrophilic extraction and hydrolysis, in particular so as to allow an additional hydrolysis step, making it possible to degrade in particular the polysaccharides into oligosaccharides and monosaccharides, interesting for a wider variety of cosmetic effects.

[0038] In this second modality of the process of the invention, the DES lactic acid / glycerol (1:1) is brought into contact with a preparation of at least one macro-alga via extraction and hydrolysis, to obtain a composition comprising polysaccharides and / or oligosaccharides and / or monosaccharides, and advantageously comprises the following steps: grinding a dried algae to obtain flakes 0.01 to 5 cm wide, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 cm, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 cm; extraction from said algae flakes in the presence of demineralized water, with stirring for a period of between 10 and 60 min, preferably between 20 and 40 min, at a temperature of between 10°C and 30°C, preferably between 15°C and 25°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 3 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the algae / water mixture;separation of an insoluble fraction of algae and a first extract formed, by filtration on a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm; recovery of said insoluble fraction of algae and contact with said DES adjusted to a water content of between 15 and 60% by weight, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight, taking into account the water contained in said insoluble fraction, with stirring for a period of between 1 h and 4 h, preferably between 1 h 30 and 3 h 30, at a temperature of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 65°C and 85°C, where the quantity of algae is between 8 and 12% by weight, preferably between 9 and 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; adjusting the pH of the mixture between 4 and 7, preferably between 5 and 6, with a 30% sodium hydroxide solution; cooling said mixture for a period of between 30 and 90 min;the mixture is adjusted to obtain a total mixture of 50% glycerol, taking into account the glycerol provided by the DES if it contains any; addition of demineralized water to obtain a final quantity of raw dried algae between 3 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; filtration of the algae residues formed during the previous steps on a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter between 0.1 and 1 mm; filtration of the final extract obtained on a Büchner filter with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm; recovery of the final extract in liquid form, said extract constituting said composition of metabolites and / or algae constituents for cosmetic use.;

[0039] Finally, according to a third method of implementing the invention, it is the DES lactic acid / dodecanol which is brought into contact with a preparation of at least one macro-algae via a hydrophobic extraction, to obtain a composition containing in particular carotenoids and / or chlorophylls.

[0040] In this third modality, the method advantageously comprises the following steps: grinding an algae (dried or undried / wet) to obtain a paste or pieces of 0.05 to 2.5 cm wide, preferably 0.1 to 2 cm, even more preferably 0.2 to 1.5 cm; bringing said paste or said pieces of algae into contact with said DES, with stirring for a period of between 30 and 120 min, preferably between 50 and 70 min, at a temperature below 60°C, preferably between 15°C and 35°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 6 and 10% by weight, preferably between 7 and 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry algae / DES mixture; filtration of the algae residues formed in the previous step on a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm; separating an aqueous phase and a phase comprising said DES; drying said phase comprising said DES over anhydrous magnesium sulfate;filtration of the final extract obtained on Büchner with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm; recovery of the final extract in liquid form, said extract constituting said composition of metabolites and / or constituents of algae for cosmetic use.;

[0041] Consequently, the invention also covers a whole series of extracts resulting from these processes, namely: according to the first method (extraction iile sim extracts from the hydrophilic process, for which the process is applied to the extraction from the algae Cystoseira baccata in the presence of DES lactic acid / glycerol (1:1 stoichiometry) in order to include phlorotannins and mannitol after extraction; extracts obtained according to the same process applied to the extraction from the algae Pylaiella littoralis in the presence of DES lactic acid / glycerol (1:1) in order to include phlorotannins; extracts obtained according to the same process applied to the extraction from the algae Cystoseira baccata in the presence of DES glycine / arginine / sorbitol (1:1:3) in order to include sugars and / or sugar derivatives including polysaccharides, such as mannitol or laminaranes; extracts obtained according to the same process applied to the extraction from the alga Polysiphonia elongata in the presence of DES glycine / arginine / sorbitol (1:1:3) comprising mycosporins, and / or digeneasides, and / or glucose.according to the second method (combination of hydrophilic extraction and hydrophilic extraction): the extracts resulting from this process applied to the extraction from the algae Cystoseira baccata, or the algae Codium tomentosum, or the algae Furcellaria lumbricalis, or the algae Polysiphonia elongata, or the algae Calliblepharis jubata, in the presence of DES lactic acid / glycerol (1:1) comprising hydrolyzed polysaccharides, such as laminarans, and / or fucans, and / or arabinogalactans, and / or mannans, and / or furcellaranes, and / or galactans, and / or carrageenans. according to the third method (hydrophobic extraction): the extracts resulting from the hydrophobic extraction process of the invention applied to the extraction from the algae Cystoseira baccata, or from the algae Codium tomentosum, or from the algae Furcellaria lumbricalis, in the presence of DES lactic acid / dodecanol (1:1) comprising hydrophobic compounds, such as carotenoids and / or chlorophylls.

[0042] These different extracts according to the invention can be integrated as cosmetic ingredients in cosmetic compositions, because they contain interesting natural active principles that are still very little widespread. Indeed, while the extraction of algae metabolites for cosmetic purposes has not yet fully developed, the use of DES as extraction solvents, associated with the use of algae, also makes it possible to comply with cosmetic regulations, by limiting the use of toxic reagents and compounds. Such natural compositions thus present less risk of side effects for their users, and correspond to what consumers are looking for.

[0043] The invention also encompasses cosmetic compositions including at least one of the above extracts, as well as the use of each of these extracts as a cosmetic ingredient.

[0044] According to the invention, the cosmetic compositions concerned are in particular intended to be applied to healthy skin, typically to moisturize the skin, and / or to prevent and / or combat skin aging, and / or to improve the skin microbiota and / or improve the barrier function of the skin and / or to prepare the skin to combat external oxidative stress, and / or provide a slimming effect and / or a fat-burning effect and / or a soothing effect.

[0045] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear in the description which follows in connection with preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0046] Detailed description of the invention

[0047] General introduction to algae and cosmetics

[0048] Marine macroalgae are grouped into three types: brown algae or Phaeophyceae containing brown carotenoid pigments such as fucoxanthin; red algae belonging to the phylum Rhodophyta containing red and blue pigments called phycobilins; and green algae belonging to the phylum Chlorophyta.

[0049] Seaweed is primarily composed of water and can contain up to 95% of the weight of the fresh seaweed. It also contains many other elements, such as mineral salts and trace elements, vitamins, amino acids and proteins, pigments, and phlorotannins. It is these metabolites that give it its specificity, providing it with biological properties that can be used in various applications, such as the food industry, the pharmaceutical and medical fields, and cosmetics.

[0050] Particularly with regard to the development of the field of natural care and cosmetics, pure algal molecules or those in the form of extracts can be added to formulations for their toning, moisturizing, revitalizing, anti-aging, but also anti-cellulite and slimming activities.

[0051] Algae at the heart of the invention

[0052] Six species of algae were studied in the context of the invention. These are the brown algae Pylaiella littoralis and Cystoseira baccata, the red algae Polysiphonia elongata, Cal I i bl epharis jubata and Furcellaria lumbricalis, as well as the green algae Codium tomentosum. These are all eukaryotic macroalgae, selected for their chemical composition, particularly in phenolic compounds, carotenoids, mycosporins or polysaccharides and / or their antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-aging and moisturizing properties. General introduction on DES

[0053] A DES consists of a hydrogen bond acceptor and a hydrogen bond donor, which, at the correct stoichiometry, combine to create a hydrogen bond network. Non-covalent, non-ionic intermolecular forces are at play. A DES is generally liquid at room temperature (below 100°C).

[0054] Many molecules can enter into the composition of a deep eutectic solvent such as organic acids, amino acids, sugars, alcohols or even quaternary ammoniums.

[0055] The advantages of using DES as solvents include a reduction in the toxicity of the products used compared to organic solvents, as they are less toxic. They are also non-volatile and non-flammable. They are often biodegradable and biocompatible. They also have strong solvating and extracting power, making them very good extraction solvents.

[0056] Eutectic solvents, in addition to often being more effective than water, can allow stabilization of metabolites and / or constituents of extracted algae and / or limit the use of preservatives.

[0057] The efficiency of DESs to extract target metabolites is dependent on their polarity; by modifying their composition, the polarity can be modulated, allowing a very varied range of polarity to be obtained thanks to a considerable number of composition possibilities.

[0058] Details of the experiments implementing and testing the principles of the invention

[0059] As already mentioned, algae produce many active molecules of interest in cosmetics. The aim of this invention was to extract, or even hydrolyze, some of these molecules using innovative solvents: DES.

[0060] Three (3) types of deep eutectic solvents were prepared in this invention: hydrophilic binary DESs, comprising 2 compounds (in the presence of water); hydrophilic ternary DESs, comprising 3 compounds (in the presence of water); and hydrophobic DESs, comprising 2 or 3 components of which at least 1 is hydrophobic, without adding water.

[0061] Concerning the nature and quality of the water to be added in the different variants summarized above, the addition of demineralized water will be preferred, in order to better control the purity, reproducibility and absence of bacteria. However, the person skilled in the art will be able to adapt according to possible secondary objectives.

[0062] DESs can be modulated according to their applications by adjusting their selectivity, polarity or viscosity, in particular by changing one or more constituents of the DES or by changing the quantity of water contained in it. For example, the addition of a third compound (other than water) to a hydrophilic binary DES has made it possible to modify the polarity of the solvents.

[0063] Viscosity is one of the limiting factors for the use of eutectic solvents at the industrial level. In particular, the increase in temperature and the addition of water in hydrophilic DES influence their viscosity. Consequently, the addition of water during the preparation of DES facilitates their production by reducing the preparation time as well as the risk of degradation of the starting constituents. To maintain the specific extraction properties of the DES of the invention, a dilution limit of between 30 and 40% water by mass is observed.

[0064] Six (6) particular DESs, among others, were experimentally tested in the context of the invention: DES lactic acid / glycerol, at 1:1 stoichiometry, was tested as an extraction solvent in a hydrophilic extraction process, as well as in a process combining extraction and hydrolysis; DES lactic acid / dodecanol, at 1:1 stoichiometry, was tested as an extraction solvent in a hydrophobic extraction process; DES lactic acid / decanol, at 1:1 stoichiometry, was tested as an extraction solvent in a hydrophobic extraction process; DES glycine / arginine / sorbitol, at 1:1:3 stoichiometry, was tested as an extraction solvent in a hydrophilic extraction process; DES proline / glucose / glycerol at 1:1:1 stoichiometry tested as an extraction solvent in a hydrophilic extraction process;DES proline / fructose / glycerol at 1:1:1 stoichiometry tested as an extraction solvent in a hydrophilic extraction process.;

[0065] The DESs used were essentially characterized by cold source spectrometry, according to the technique described in particular in the publication “Cold-Spray Ionization Mass Spectrometry of the Choline Chloride-Urea Deep”, Percevault et al, 2021 and / or by study of their rheology and / or by dielectric spectroscopy.

[0066] These DESs were used to extract various metabolites and / or constituents, possibly hydrolyzed, based on different algae.

[0067] These DES / process / algae / metabolites and / or constituent combinations are summarized in the table below:

[0068]

[0069] It is thus noted that these different combinations according to the invention make it possible to obtain various varied compositions of metabolites and / or constituents of algae for cosmetic use, by means of bringing a preparation of at least one algae (typically a macro-alga) into contact with a DES type solvent, said DES type solvent being chosen so as to consist of a mixture comprising two or three compounds chosen from amino acids, organic acids, alcohols and sugars, in the presence of water or not.

[0070] Incidentally, the effectiveness of this process for obtaining varied compositions of algal metabolites could be correlated, in any event, with the fact that these compounds, which are present in nature, could quite easily form DESs within plants. Their formation would solubilize, store, and transport metabolites that are not or only slightly soluble in water. This would explain the survival of organisms during germination, cryoprotection, or drought.

[0071] Details of the three methods of carrying out the method according to the invention

[0072] The very wide pH range possible for DES made it possible to consider both the extraction of different algal metabolites, as well as the hydrolysis of algal polysaccharides.

[0073] Extraction process with a hydrophilic DES

[0074] The seaweed was eventually desalinated by soaking in fresh water before drying;

[0075] The seaweed was dried, at room temperature in the sun or in a tobacco dryer, or in a rotary dryer at a temperature between 35°C and 90°C, preferably between 45°C and 80°C, more preferably between 55°C and 70°C;

[0076] It was then ground in a mixer to obtain flakes 0.01 to 5 cm wide, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 cm, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 cm;

[0077] The previously prepared DES, which can be adjusted to a water content between 15% and 60% water, preferably between 20% and 40%, was brought into contact with the algae flakes under stirring for a period of between 10 and 60 min, preferably between 20 and 40 min, at a temperature between 30°C and 70°C, preferably between 40°C and 60°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 2% and 6% by weight, preferably between 3 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture;

[0078] The algae residues were then filtered through a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter between 0.1 and 1 mm;

[0079] The pH of the extract can optionally be adjusted between 4 and 7, preferably between 5 and 6, with a 30% sodium hydroxide solution or citric acid;

[0080] The final extract was filtered through Büchner with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm;

[0081] The final extract in liquid form was recovered.

[0082] The DESs used to implement this hydrophilic extraction process are lactic acid / glycerol (1:1 stoichiometry), proline / glucose / sorbitol (1:1:1 stoichiometry), proline / glucose / glycerol (1:1:1 stoichiometry), proline / fructose / glycerol (1:1:1 stoichiometry) and glycine / arginine / sorbitol (1:1:3 stoichiometry).

[0083] The preferred DESs are lactic acid / glycerol and glycine / arginine / sorbitol DESs.

[0084] Extraction process with a hydrophobic DES

[0085] The seaweed was eventually desalinated by soaking in fresh water;

[0086] The wet / undried or dried seaweed, at room temperature in the sun or in a tobacco dryer, or in a rotary dryer at a temperature between 35°C and 90°C, preferably between 45°C and 80°C, more preferably between 55°C and 70°C was ground in a mixer to obtain a paste or pieces of 0.05 to 2.5 cm wide, preferably 0.1 to 2 cm, even more preferably 0.2 to 1.5 cm; The DES, previously prepared, is brought into contact with the algae paste or pieces under agitation for a period of between 30 and 120 min, preferably between 50 and 70 min, at a temperature below 60°C, preferably between 15°C and 35°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 6% and 10% by weight, preferably between 7% and 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; The algae residues were filtered through a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm;

[0087] An aqueous phase and a phase comprising DES were separated;

[0088] The phase comprising DES was dried over anhydrous magnesium sulfate; The final extract was filtered through a Büchner funnel with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm;

[0089] The final extract in liquid form was recovered.

[0090] The DESs used to implement this hydrophobic extraction process are lactic acid / dodecanol (1:1 stoichiometry) and lactic acid / decanol (1:1 stoichiometry) DESs.

[0091] The preferred DES is lactic acid / dodecanol DES.

[0092] Process for the extraction and hydrolysis of polysaccharides with a hydrophilic DES

[0093] The seaweed was eventually desalinated by soaking in fresh water before drying;

[0094] The seaweed was dried, at room temperature in the sun or in a tobacco dryer, or in a rotary dryer at a temperature between 35°C and 90°C, preferably between 45°C and 80°C, more preferably between 55°C and 70°C;

[0095] It was then ground in a mixer to obtain flakes 0.01 to 5 cm wide, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 cm, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 cm;

[0096] An extraction was then carried out from the algae flakes in the presence of demineralized water, with stirring for a period of between 10 and 60 min, preferably between 20 and 40 min, at a temperature of between 10°C and 30°C, preferably between 15°C and 25°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 3% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the algae / water mixture;

[0097] An insoluble fraction of algae and a first extract formed were separated by filtration through a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm; The insoluble fraction of algae was recovered and brought into contact with the previously prepared DES, which was adjusted to a water content of between 15% and 60% by weight, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight, taking into account the water contained in the insoluble fraction, with stirring for a period of between 1 h and 4 h, preferably between 1 h 30 and 3 h 30, at a temperature of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 65°C and 85°C, where the quantity of raw dry algae is between 8% and 12% by weight, preferably between 9% and 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry algae / DES mixture;

[0098] The pH of the mixture was adjusted between 4 and 7, preferably between 5 and 6, with a 30% sodium hydroxide solution;

[0099] The mixture was allowed to cool for a period of between 30 and 90 min; the mixture was adjusted to obtain a total mixture of 50% glycerol, taking into account the glycerol provided by the DES if it contains any.

[0100] Demineralized water was added to obtain a final quantity of raw dried seaweed between 3% and 5%, relative to the total weight of the seaweed / DES mixture;

[0101] The algae residues were filtered through a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter between 0.1 and 1 mm;

[0102] The final extract was filtered through Büchner with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm;

[0103] The final extract in liquid form was recovered.

[0104] The DES used to implement this polysaccharide extraction and hydrolysis process is lactic acid / glycerol DES (1:1 stoichiometry).

[0105] It is possible for a person skilled in the art to obtain from algae oligosaccharides of different molecular weights and degrees of polymerization, and therefore associated with different biological and chemical properties, by varying the DES and the temperature used in the hydrolysis, without departing from the scope of the invention.

[0106] To validate the effectiveness of the methods and extracts of the invention, tests were carried out, the results of which are shown in the summary table below.

[0107] Column 2 of this table indicates the relevant DES / process / algae / metabolite combination as referenced in the combination table earlier in this description.

[0108]

[0109] Description of results

[0110] Test A: Codium tomentosum extract (#9 of the previous Table of DES / orocedes / algae / metabolites and / or constituents “combinations”)

[0111] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract increases the production of hyaluronic acid compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2 and non-irradiated. These results are positive and suggest that the extract improves the extracellular matrix at the dermal level for an anti-aging and moisturizing effect, subject to in vivo testing.

[0112] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract decreased the production of MMP-1 compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2 These results suggest that the extract reduces collagen degradation for an anti-aging effect.

[0113] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract decreased IL-8 production compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2 These results suggest that the extract regulates inflammatory phenomena for a soothing or anti-redness effect.

[0114] An in vitro test of bacterial growth of the S. epidermidis strain in a glucose-depleted environment showed that the extract improves the growth of the commensal bacteria (good skin bacteria) S. epidermidis in a glucose-depleted environment. These results suggest that it improves the skin microbiota with a prebiotic effect, i.e. an increase in the beneficial saprophytic flora for better skin protection and a barrier effect.

[0115] Test B: Extract of Furcellaria lumbricalis (#10 of the previous Table of DES / orocedes / alcas / metabolites and / or constituents “combinations”)

[0116] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract increases the production of hyaluronic acid compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2 and non-irradiated. These results suggest that the extract improves the extracellular matrix at the dermal level for an anti-aging and moisturizing effect, subject to in vivo testing.

[0117] An in vitro test of bacterial growth of the S. epidermidis strain in a glucose-depleted medium showed that the extract improves the growth of the commensal bacteria (good skin bacteria) S. epidermidis in a glucose-depleted medium. These results suggest that it improves the skin microbiota with a prebiotic effect, i.e. an increase in the beneficial saprophytic flora for better skin protection and a barrier effect. An in vitro test was carried out on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) to evaluate the adhesion and proliferation of 3 bacterial strains: Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) and Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes). The extract increases the commensal flora (good skin bacteria: S. epidermidis) to the detriment of the pathogenic flora (C. acnes + S. aureus).Excess of these pathogens can cause disorders (acne or dryness) but they are nevertheless always present. These results suggest that it regulates the skin microbiota by preventing the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria.

[0118] Test C: Extract of Cvstoseira baccata (#8 of the previous Table of DES / process / alka / metabolite and / or constituent “combinations”)

[0119] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract increases the production of hyaluronic acid compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2 and non-irradiated. These results suggest that the extract improves the extracellular matrix at the dermal level for an anti-aging and moisturizing effect.

[0120] An in vitro test of bacterial growth of the S. epidermidis strain in a glucose-depleted environment showed that the extract improves the growth of the commensal bacteria (good skin bacteria) S. epidermidis in a glucose-depleted environment. These results suggest that it improves the skin microbiota with a prebiotic effect, i.e. an increase in the beneficial saprophytic flora for better skin protection and a barrier effect.

[0121] Test D: Extract of Cvstoseira baccata (#1 of the previous Table of DES / processes / alkas / metabolites and / or constituents “combinations”)

[0122] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract increases the production of hyaluronic acid compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2and non-irradiated. These results suggest that the extract improves the extracellular matrix at the dermal level for an anti-aging and moisturizing effect.

[0123] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract decreased the production of MMP-1 compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2 These results suggest that the extract reduces collagen degradation for an anti-aging effect.

[0124] An in vitro test was conducted on human preadipocytes to evaluate the effect of extracts on adipogenesis. The extract reduces lipid accumulation and therefore the differentiation of preadipocytes into adipocytes (anti-adipogenic). These results suggest that the extract has anti-lipid storage properties for a slimming effect.

[0125] An in vitro test was performed on human preadipocytes to evaluate the effect of the extract on the induction of the beige phenotype. The extract increases the expression of the UCP1 protein, which reflects an increase in the induction of the beige phenotype of preadipocytes (pro-thermogenic effect). These results suggest that the extract has fat-burning properties.

[0126] Test E: Extract of Cvstoseira baccata (#3 of the previous Table of DES / orocedes / algae / metabolites and / or constituents “combinations”)

[0127] In vitro tests were carried out on human fibroblasts in cell monolayer. The extract decreased IL-8 production compared to control cells irradiated with UVA at 5J / cm 2 These results suggest that the extract regulates inflammatory phenomena for a soothing or anti-redness effect.

[0128] An in vitro test was conducted on human preadipocytes to evaluate the effect of extracts on adipogenesis. The extract reduces lipid accumulation and therefore the differentiation of preadipocytes into adipocytes (anti-adipogenic). These results suggest that the extract has anti-lipid storage properties for a slimming effect.

[0129] An in vitro test was performed on human preadipocytes to evaluate the effect of the extract on the induction of the beige phenotype. The extract increases the expression of the UCP1 protein, which reflects an increase in the induction of the beige phenotype of preadipocytes (prothermogenic effect). These results suggest that the extract has fat-burning properties.

[0130] Efficacy Test Protocols

[0131] The protocols for the efficacy tests were as follows:

[0132] Hyaluronic acid

[0133] Test performed on a monolayer culture of human fibroblasts (BJ cells). JO: Implantation of human BJ lineage cells (fibroblasts)

[0134] D1: Treatment of cells with extracts + control without extract

[0135] D2: Irradiation of cells with UVA at 5J / cm 2 to simulate stress + control without extract without irradiation

[0136] D4: recovery of supernatants for ELISA assay of hyaluronic acid (ng / mL)

[0137] MMP-1 and IL-8

[0138] Test performed on a monolayer culture of human fibroblasts (BJ cells).

[0139] JO: Implantation of human BJ lineage cells (fibroblasts)

[0140] D1: Treatment of cells with extracts + control without extract

[0141] D2: Irradiation of cells with UVA at 5J / cm 2 to simulate stress + control without extract without irradiation

[0142] D4: Recovery of supernatants for multiplex assay of MMP-1 (pg / mL) and IL-8 (CXCL8) (pg / mL) Growth of S. epidermidis

[0143] The bacterial strain S. epidermidis ATCC® 14990™ was cultivated in glucose-depleted medium (Tryptone Broth) and the growth of this strain was determined by reading the optical density at 600 nm in continuous kinetics over a period of 24 hours in order to determine the growth curve.

[0144] Test carried out on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) used at D10.

[0145] Preparation of a bacterial mix containing approximately 5x106 CFU / RHE for the S. aureus (ATCC® 6538™, Gram+) and C. acnes (ATCC® 6919™, Gram+) strains and 1x107 CFU / RHE for the S. epidermidis (ATCC® 14990™, Gram+) strain, i.e. 50% S. epidermidis, 25% S. aureus and 25% C. acnes. Topical application (50 μl / RHE) of the extracts or water (for controls) on the RHE was carried out before a 24-hour pre-incubation. The medium was then replaced and the bacterial mix added to the RHE (for infected conditions). After 4 hours of incubation, the RHE were rinsed and the treatments repeated. The RHEs were further incubated for 20 h before being frozen at -80°C. For analysis, the RHEs were mechanically ground using the tissue grinder and gDNA from each sample was extracted. Quantification was performed by qPCR. Experimental conditions were performed in n=5 per condition and gene analysis in n=2 per sample.

[0146] The preadipocytes used were human preadipocytes cultured in 2D under proadipogenic conditions. The extracts to be tested were directly added to the culture medium. The preadipocytes were cultured in the presence or absence of the extracts for 12 days with a change of media every 2-3 days during the culture period. All treatment conditions were performed in triplicate culture. The media were then collected and the preadipocytes were fixed with 4% paraformaldehyde before being incubated with an anti-UCP1 primary antibody overnight. After washing, the cells were incubated with the secondary antibody and then with DAPI (4',6-Diamidino-2-Phenylindole, Dihydrochloride) and BODIPY at room temperature to reveal the nuclei and intracellular lipid droplets, respectively.Quantifications of nuclei, lipid accumulation, and UCPI expression were performed by an automated method for nuclei and lipid droplet detection and an imaging and processing method for quantification of area and fluorescence intensity.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Process for obtaining a composition of algae metabolites for cosmetic use and / or algae constituents for cosmetic use, consisting of bringing a preparation of at least one wild or cultivated algae into contact with a DES type solvent, said DES type solvent being chosen so as to consist of a mixture comprising at least one compound chosen from amino acids, organic acids, alcohols and sugars.

2. Method according to claim 1, wherein said preparation of at least one wild or cultivated algae is brought into contact with said DES type solvent via a hydrophilic extraction process.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein said DES solvent is DES lactic acid / glycerol and said wild or cultivated algae is selected from Cystoseira baccata and Pylaiella littoralis; or wherein said DES solvent is DES glycine / arginine / sorbitol and said wild or cultivated algae is selected from Cystoseira baccata and Polysiphonia elongata.

4. Method according to any one of claims 2 and 3, comprising the following steps: : grinding said dried algae to obtain flakes of 0.01 to 5 cm wide, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 cm, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 cm; bringing said algae flakes into contact with said DES, with stirring for a period of between 10 and 60 min, preferably between 20 and 40 min, at a temperature of between 30°C and 70°C, preferably between 40°C and 60°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 2% and 6% by weight, preferably between 3% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; filtration of the algae residues formed in the previous step on a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm; optional adjustment of the pH of the extract between 4 and 7, preferably between 5 and 6, with a 30% sodium hydroxide solution or citric acid;filtration of the final extract obtained on Büchner with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm; recovery of the final extract in liquid form, said extract constituting said composition of algae metabolites for cosmetic use.; 5. Method according to claim 2, wherein said hydrophilic extraction carried out is a hydrolysis, and wherein said DES type solvent is DES lactic acid / glycerol and said wild or cultivated algae is chosen from Cystoseira baccata, Codium tomentosum, Furcellaria lumbricalis, Polysiphonia elongata and Calliblepharis jubata. Method according to claim 5 characterized in that it comprises the following steps: grinding said dried algae to obtain flakes 0.01 to 5 cm wide, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 cm, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 cm; extraction from said algae flakes in the presence of demineralized water, with stirring for a period of between 10 and 60 min, preferably between 20 and 40 min, at a temperature between 10°C and 30°C, preferably between 15°C and 25°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 3% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the algae / water mixture; separation of an insoluble fraction of algae and a first extract formed, by filtration on a cloth or sieve whose mesh diameter is between 0.1 and 1 mm;recovery of said insoluble fraction of algae and contacting with said DES adjusted to a water content of between 15% and 60% by weight, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight, taking into account the water contained in said insoluble fraction, with stirring for a period of between 1 h and 4 h, preferably between 1 h 30 and 3 h 30, at a temperature of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 65°C and 85°C, where the quantity of dry algae is between 8% and 12% by weight, preferably between 9% and 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; adjustment of the pH of the mixture between 4 and 7, preferably between 5 and 6, with a 30% sodium hydroxide solution; cooling of said mixture for a period of between 30 and 90 min; adjustment of the mixture to obtain a total mixture of 50% glycerol taking into account the glycerol provided by the DES if it contains any;adding demineralized water to obtain a final quantity of raw dried algae between 3% and 5%, relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; filtration of the algae residues formed in the previous step on a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm; filtration of the final extract obtained on a Büchner filter with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm; recovery of the final extract in liquid form, said extract constituting said composition of metabolites and / or constituents of algae for cosmetic use. Method according to claim 1, wherein said preparation of at least one wild or cultivated algae is brought into contact with said DES-type solvent via a hydrophobic extraction process, and wherein said DES-type solvent is acid DES; lactic acid / dodecanol and said wild or cultivated algae is chosen from Cystoseira baccata, Codium tomentosum and Furcellaria lumbricalis. Preparation process according to claim 7 comprising the following steps: grinding said algae (dried or undried / wet) to obtain a paste or pieces of 0.05 to 2.5 cm wide, preferably 0.1 to 2 cm, even more preferably 0.2 to 1.5 cm; bringing said paste or said pieces of algae into contact with said DES, with stirring for a period of between 30 and 120 min, preferably between 50 and 70 min, at a temperature below 60°C, preferably between 15°C and 35°C, where the quantity of dried algae is between 6% and 10% by weight, preferably between 7% and 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the algae / DES mixture; filtration of the algae residues formed in the previous step on a cloth or sieve with a mesh diameter of between 0.1 and 1 mm;separation of an aqueous phase and a phase comprising said DES; drying of said phase comprising said DES on anhydrous magnesium sulfate; filtration of the final extract obtained on a Büchner funnel with filter paper having a filtration capacity of 0.7 and / or 1.2 μm; recovery of the final extract in liquid form, said extract constituting said composition of algae metabolites for cosmetic use. Extract obtained by implementing the method according to any one of claims 2 to 8. Extract according to claim 9, and obtained by implementing the method according to any one of claims 2 to 4, comprising phlorotannins and / or mannitol in the case of hydrophilic extraction in the presence of DES lactic acid / glycerol (1:1);and comprising sugars and / or sugar derivatives including polysaccharides, such as mannitol or laminarans, and / or mycosporins, and / or digeneasides, and / or glucose in the case of hydrophilic extraction in the presence of DES glycine / arginine / sorbitol (1:1:3). Extract according to claim 9, and obtained by implementing the method according to claim 5 or 6, comprising hydrolyzed polysaccharides, such as laminarans, and / or sulfated or non-sulfated fucans, and / or sulfated or non-sulfated arabinogalactans, and / or sulfated or non-sulfated mannans, and / or furcellaranes, and / or sulfated or non-sulfated galactans, and / or carrageenans. Extract according to claim 9, and obtained by implementing the method according to claim 7 or 8, comprising hydrophobic compounds, such as carotenoids and / or chlorophylls. Cosmetic composition comprising an extract according to any one of claims 9 to 12.; 14. Use of an extract according to any one of claims 9 to 12 as a cosmetic ingredient.

15. Use of a composition according to claim 13 as a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to healthy skin.

16. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 14 and 15 for moisturizing the skin, and / or for preventing and / or combating skin aging, and / or for improving the skin microbiota, and / or for preparing the skin to combat external oxidative stress and / or improving the skin barrier function and / or a slimming effect and / or a fat-burning effect.

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